1000 vs 8000 Watts? How Much Louder on the SAME Subs?
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2022
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![8000 watts, but What's New? Taramps MD8000.1 EX Amp Dyno Test and More [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jU1WCkQwVe8/mqdefault.jpg)
For Music that is pretty loud. Would love to see you build a box that you can change port length on the fly. My friend years ago did this and just by shortening and lengthening the port he could change frequencies to make his box better for music or spl.
I’ve made one before when I had a vxf 15 had an external aero port
I use the subsonic and gain to adjust my tuning. It seem to works!
I have seen guys use aeroports with a long rubber coupler or 2 and they just use gear clamps and slide it in or out, I think it's better to just tune somewhere in between spl and response. Find the optimal port length based on the favorite music of the owner you might give up a bit of spl but not much. It depends on the vehicle though some need fine tuning.
Love these comparison experiment videos!! Keep em up! 👍
Awesome video!!!! Can’t wait to see he the shop turns out !!
Good video as always Parker! Thank you
Thank you!
That was a really cool test good work Parker
think it be cool to show some progress of the shop, like to see some before and after 😊
I'd say overall, I'm becoming a Taramps fan, I have the bass 1200.1 and with all things considered the longevity of this brand seems to be working pretty good for me. I bought the tiny 400watt mids and highs amplifier you tried a while back and it's still going strong no issues other than a slight hiss but that's class D for you. I think they have proven themselves and they are my go to brand other than the sundown sfb's which I think are awesomely affordable and reliable as well. Thanks again for your awesome work, 🔊 on
Not a single thing wrong with taramps as long as you use them according to their specs which is not below 12v.
I got me a md1200 over bass1200 because it has the clip monitor extension
Hi bro,what is the real rms watt of taramps bass 1200..???
I can't say for sure unless someone meters it but from what I saw on one post it's more than twelve hundred Watts, but with box rise as parker said the sub may not see more than 800 if lucky 1000 Watts. We can ask him to meter it, that'll be helpful information
Can't wait to see what you come up with in the Sequoia now. I know it's gonna it's gonna be something really awesome
Love seeing the things you are doing to make your content better and better. Sow the progress of the shop as you go
Great video. Keep it rolling 👍🇺🇸
You really should do a couple episodes on shop renovations. That is always cool when people do that.
I just did a similar experiment to the one in this video (albeit, on a much smaller scale). I've had (2) SKAR SDR-10s on a SKAR RP800.1d in my car for a bit, and after scoring an awesome deal on a DEI
Directed1100d (and matching 4-channel Directed200) swapped out the RP800 for the Directed1100 to see what kinda difference it would make. A HUGE difference, as it were. A bit louder volume, but LOTS more impact you feel when the bass hits. Sound quality is marginally better, but most people probably wouldn't notice any difference. You've got me wanting to do some SPL metering to get some quantitive, objective results.
This is an awesome video and that’s before I even watched it!!
Thank you!!
I ordered that same bass1200 once, and they sent me the 4 channel 1200. It actually still out in work for the week I used it before the right one was shipped to me. 😎
love you're videos!😀
I am currently running an old alpine 1000 watt bass amp. But after watching your channel I need to try out the lil 1200 watt taramps!
There's a BIG difference in the quality of the components and circuit design of those two amps.
I'd stay with the Alpine.
@@jamms992 why would you stay with the alpine
@@BobBasshead One has brand new low end components that are in spec and the other has old high quality components that most likely have drifted out of spec over time. The old one will be a lot less efficient if it is a class ab. I think the Taramps are good bang for the buck. Harmony audio has a 1500a1 $250 dollars on ebay. They put out crazy power. Those amps can do dynamic bursts 2 ohm 1614w bursts at 1 ohm 2984w bursts at .67 ohms over 4300 watts. I bought one because you just can't beat the value, if it lasts 4 or 5 years I am happy. If I only get 1 year out of it I will still be happy. Taramps would be my second choice for a sub amp.
@@dwaynevukoder1687 sorry for my late response, I've been in car audio for years. I'm still using Alpine amps that are close to 20 years old, the quality of the components and sound quality are still outstanding to this day. I'm an sq Bass head.
It would be awesome to see you test out some soundcube 12’s an 15’s, they’re great quality from my experience and don’t break the bank. Like the vids bro keep it up 😎
Good stuff brosi
Great test I don’t see many of these videos
I’m liking the American bass the more I see them I wish you could compare a signature against the sundown z and x sub.
Could you compare the American bass xfl to the American bass hawk
That GSX-R though 😍😍😍
Do you have a video explaining how you set the gain?
Hey Parker any chance you can make a video on how you set up the taramps I’m getting very little voice out of mine
Love the playlist name.
I have a single x15v.3 in a 4th order powered by a crescendo 4k wired to 1om. And I'm getting a 143.3 on the dash sealed and on the kick. I was hoping to be in the 145-150 range.
Good info
The subi in the back clean😍
Thank you!!!
Got the right subs....AB BABY💪🏿💯
Dude the elite 1244s can handle the taramps 8k? I was going to get the 3k and upgrade to those American bass
I came upon this video searching for rough findings with the control and variable switched. Have been pondering how much louder would say a 4k max sub be vs 1k max sub on my 5k smart taramps? Which is the most limiting factor, the subs recommended rating, or the amp that feeds it? Any even anecdotal findings from anyone is appreciated thanks!
1st off, love your channel, always come here to get my bass head fix haha.. I'm sure you've spoken on this subject before but can you tell me the best way to record bass in my car without making the microphone clip? Should I just record at a lower volume? or...
Late reply but your going to need a microphone that can handle that frequency and very few can, most microphones that can handle the volume and frequency of the bass would be microphones meant to specifically measure car aufio frequencies however there's surely tons of microphones that can handle that volume and frequency that aren't for car audio measurements I just cant think of an exact category however microphones used for movies manage to record bass at these frequencies consistently do I dont doubt you could buy a much smaller and cheaper version of the same microphone since your not trying to record an entire set or street thr microphone can be much smaller but id have to say look into high quality mics that can record the lowest frequency that your amps frequency response is rated at. Thr only problem past that would be exceeding the decibals for the mic not to distort the signal do then you may have to play eith your recording volume while keeping subs the same volume, then amplify the sound with any of the many audio file editing softwares available. No recommendations because I use at least 10 different programs depending on what I'm doing 🤷♂️. Just curious why do you want to record your bass to a more hi def sound?
Hi Parker you have tested almost all taramps amps.please advise if this Bass 8k version more powerful and can be wired at .5 ohms and efficient than md8k?
I have 3 ddx 10's in a skar triple 10 box.way to small.any ideas on a good box for 3-10's that will fit in a 2012 Honda accord.any help is appreciated bud.keep the content coming
Get that boom boom bro
Hello and greetings from Mexicali, hey, could you make a video where you adjust subsonic gain and Lpf to the 5K BASS taramps?
After seeing some of your videos. If you had to run only one 10" woofer what on would that be for 1,000 RMS an higher?
This video with skull candy crusher evo is crazy
I need to send you videos or my set up. 2 12 kickers on a little 800 watt amp! I got that shit hitting so crazy. That 1200 your using in this video will be prefect for my shit.
in this vid the box is what you made for the blackbrick 15s?
Have you tried to roll into your tests rather than a full tilt 3 second burp? I had ran the Trunk 1 and 2 classes in Meca, and I always did better if I rolled into it.
Kool! I am running 1200.1 taramps with 2 skar svr 15s in a sealed B Box. Is it normal that I can't turn my amp up more then less then half way before it clips/protect mode
I thought I was under powering my subs.
Here are some rules of thumb. To gain every 3db you need to double your power or double the quantity of speakers. Give or take 1db. Also size plays a roll as well. DBs are very expensive $$$$
How are these amps compared to the Sundown SFB 2000D?
Ok You proved a point and I was wrong. I deleted the comment from the other video related to this. I knew it was going to increase a bit the db's but did not expect almost 6 db's increase. However, I would like to see the 1200 watt amp with a cheap pair of 10's vs the same amp with that 15' pair and see what the outcome is. I don't have 15's but with a couple of XO1044's and a 1200 watt amp (Hifonics 1516) I get 138 db's @ 40 hz, stock car, no add batt.
ok so more power means louder? gotta upgrade my amp ig
I really like your videos I'm Brazilian and I really like the Taramps amplifiers you've already tried soundigital they are great
I love those little 1200,s
Yeah it is done well for me so far!
I have the same radio, mine does that somethins aswell. Black screen.
And it work after some tryes again.
Hearing gods country (DJR) and thunder rolls (DJSNT) made me happy. Two songs I LOVE to bump on my single 18
back in 2002 had 2 spl brand 15s made by power acoustik each had dual 1 ohm voice coils heavy as could be had 400 watts each to them in a 3.4 cf per sub ported to 45 hz it would do 144.6 on music was very loud for what it was and had sq thinking of making a system with modern subs and amps
going back and forth between Sundown sfb-8000d or Taramps 8k
I'm running 4 audiopipe bd4 in my toyota runner 2022 on a 1800.d amplifier audiopipe
where did you find the 15s for under 200?
What door speakers u using?
What would be best for 8000watt for two subs In my q50?
could you please put the songs u used in the vid in the description? I want to test my subs.
Got a Taramp smart5 but nervous to put that huge Taramp sticker on my car
I tried to run the SKAR SDR 18 on the Taramps MD 3000.1 2ohm. Even with the gain and bass boost off. Wanted to smoke the subwoofer at higher volume. Wouldn't even put out bass. Just Would start to burn coil as soon as you start turning it up.
Different ratings. Have to run like an evl or above
@@xcheats0124 yeah I know
fun video to watch
Thank you!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead my pleasure man keep it up.
Would've liked to see you face the subs to the back just to see how it changes it.
That’s a good idea!
@@ParkerTheBasshead agreed, can you make a video testing subwoofer placement in a SUV? lots of people have questions on that, no measurements
@@akjohnny5997 I agree. In my 2010 RAV4, for instance, I have 2 Memphis 15's in an Atrend enclosure tuned to 32hz and running them on a bigger alternator, 0 gauge wire, and be batteries powering a 3600 watt Kicker amp. Facing the rear of my car is the only way I have found they have the most pressure, cleanest sound, and loudest outside the car.. My installer always recommends regular street build's face the back.
Everyone in the winning lanes(suv no wall) run subs up port rear. There is a reason for that.
Can u check out the DB Drive amps?
Hey bud how are you keeping your voltage good I have a scar 1500 and two 15”s and I have done the big 3 kit and just still can’t seem to get the power to stay at 13v it will go as low as 11.95v and also it makes the subs pop a lot I don’t know if I broke my amp or not I’ve never had this problem before
What is your final impedance? Might not have to do with voltage. You could be doing some harsh clipping. Trying over drive your amp.
Ok so for example I have just done the same as which you are doing here in this video. Im currently doing some testing on a power acoustics 1200rms 12” woofer/box that was passed down to me and it also came with this kicker cx300.1 monoblock amplifier!
So far It’s been okay but I wanted to get a new amp and try getting the most out of this woofer so I saw a budget amplifier recently that had been reviewed on dynos showing 650w @ 2ohm and it’s 1ohm stable @ 1000w. It’s called the Audiozerone ZE1000.1 2000WAtt. Anyways so with the new amp I can tell it’s not outputing how that small 300w kicker amp was ? What’s going on here it’s mind boggling man ?
With a phone app I hit 105db using the 300watt kicker amp and with the 1000w amp I wasn’t able to hit over 98db 😮😮
hey man i have two ozone 12" subs on a ct sound 1500, set all my gains and all that and if i go any higher it starts to clip, i was thinking going more and getting a ct2000 because these subs can take a beating. do you think this would give me more clean power without clipping, and hit harder?
If you are experiencing clipping distortion with your current amp, you may need to buy a larger power amplifier or live with lower volume levels. But be sure the amplifier gain is properly adjusted before rushing to buy another amp. Proper gain setting is important to avoid clipping.
hey I know you won't see this but can your review the Skar triple 8s subs?
Good video
Please do more of these tutors of videos
I will man!
@@ParkerTheBasshead I meant to say types not tutors. I have a little baby system I’m running on deck power and don’t live anywhere near car audio comps, I see that deaf bonce has a 60rms x 4 channel amp for $90 … I have 45 watt rms speakers (4) but also 2 infinity tweeters that say 45 rms, will that amp be too much or too little or just right?
Can you try JL audio 8W7??
What about 2 -1000 watt rms 12's with matched power vs 1 -1500 watt rms 12 with matched power ... Which would get louder ?
what do you think??? the first option of course!
3/4ths through the year and 3/4ths to 100K subs, 100k by end of the year!
Hey man how can I contact you??.I need advice on getting some gear with my sequioa.thank
p. have you made a video about best SQ subs ?
Where you get the subs?
Those 15s look like an awesome buy.....
I have a question. I have a 185 amp alternator, big 3 upgrade but a kinetik hc800 agm main battery for my setup. I don't have a second battery. My car is a 98" Acura Integra LS hatchback so the stock battery space is small. Will the Taramps Bass 1200 1 ohm be alright for my Soundqubed hds 3.1 d2 15"? Or do I need to run a second battery in the hatch? I don't want a bigger amplifier than the Taramps Bass 1200 because I had the Skar rp-800.1d on in for 4 months and it went out I think due to low voltage. It was wired in 1 ohms.
And all my wire is 4 gauge. I want that Taramps Bass 1200 1 ohm now and nothing more running in 1 ohms.
@@renabecton1457 @Rena Becton noone else said anything but heres what I would do. Add a second battery in back and upgrade your wiring to 0 awg ofc from first battery to second. You can still use your 4 gauge from rear battery to amp if it's good ofc. Should help with voltage drop and not kill your new amp. Good luck 👍
Buy good battery post adapters that accept 0 gauge, Run welding cable or good copper 0 gauge power to the back (mark those cables with red electrical tape every 16 inches or so) do 2 or 3 runs to a 4 post terminal block or distribution block, 3 go to the front battery positive side and one to the amp positive side use a fuse for each wire close to the battery. Make sure you have good ground from the engine block to the car body. Use 0 gauge just find 2 good size bolts, one on the engine and one on the body grind a small spot on the paint under the bolt to make good contact to good metal with sandpaper for body grounds and take care routing to stay away from the exhaust moving parts ect.. same at the amp make sure you have 0 gauge grounded good to the body with a 3/8 inch bolt. or run another set of negative cables from the battery (you don't need a fuse on this side) if you want your alternator/amp/battery to last this should be done. You can buy a roll of welding cable for about 90 bucks. You can crimp the terminals with a vise or use a hammer and a punch and hit it good where the sleave sits make sure you have good solid crimps on the ring terminals that won't pull apart, If you need help find a car audio installer near you, just ask them to help you with the cables. The taramps 1200 does 1630 watts at 2 ohms at 1 ohm it will probably do 2000+ watts that is 250amps load give or take+ you need 80amps or more for your vehicle. The taramps 1200 will work at 4 ohms or turn the gain down at 2 ohms or your going to NEED a 330 amp+ alternator to keep up at 1 or 2ohms with the gain turned up. You could wire the sub to 2 ohms and turn the gain up from zero until you get voltage drop then turn the gain down until your stable with the Taramps1200 until you get a big alternator. The stock electrical systems can handle a 1000w amp load give or take on the average vehicle before your lights start dimming etc... then it starts costing money for electrical upgrades, I would do alternator first then add a reserve battery or just live with a 1000 watt system.
Subscribed. please can you hook up a taramps 3k to this same set up out of interest?
Just curious, do you have stock electrical in that vehicle, or do you have upgrades? I have a similar set up as the 1200 amp video. 2 Q Power 15s on a D4S JP23v1.5. I can never get it that loud while playing music because of voltage drop. Any suggestions for what I could do to help that while I am saving up to upgrade my electrical?
Outside of upgrading your electrical no not really. Only substitute for power is more more power. I mean you could get some super capacitors but those are a bit pricey. Other alternative is LTO batteries but those are also pricey. I chose the latter. I have a 5S4P setup which is capable of delivering a nice 5kw+ smack to my eardrums when needed plus I'm still on stock electrical in an OLD land Rover. That should speak volumes about how powerful LTO batteries are.
There's also LiFePo4 batteries as well. Best bet would be to order some from a decent site. They come in 3.2v 25-200amp. You could buy 4 200a cells place them in series and run those on your stock electrical system until you upgrade. Thing is they're expandable so if you decide to 16v your vehicle I'd order 5/6 that way you can run them in tandem with your system.
Nobody is running an 8k amp on stock electric. You need a big battery/ batteries, an altenator that puts out like 150amps minimum, and your voltage ideally should sit at 14.4-15 at idle.
whats the lowest your headway drops on the 8k? is it a 48 ah?
This one is 64Ah and it depends on how long and hard I play it but it usually doesn’t drop below 13.2
One of the greatest Woofer-Tubers, even up there with exo!
Disliked for using such an atrocious nickname
Is your box ported?
Taramps nós gringos!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I'm maxing out my subs(hitting the bump stops) with the setup I have right now if I play below 30hz with my subsonic turned off. I have a Nakamichi amp that is wired to 1.33ohm which is around 700-740 watts(3 subs so less than 300w per sub!!! disgusting). I really want to add a second amp(exact same amp because it has been loyal asf and I'm super happy with the quality:price ratio) since I upgraded my alternator, but I'm not sure if it's the right thing to do. Since I'm already hitting max excursion at low frequencies(sealed enclosures :C ) would more power make it worse? The subs have 2.5" voice coils and are rated for 1200w, but I have seen them handling 3kw clean a piece without issues in a local competition build. Any advice?
You’re in a large sealed box? Assuming if they’re maxing out and bottoming out. Build a ported box tuned to like 27 or 28 if you’re trying to listen to rebass or slowed music
@@GTILOUD ty for reply, I was pretty uninformed when I made this comment 😅 I learned recently that my subs aren't bottoming out, the amp is the one that is clipping. Just got my second amp and will now run one amp per sub. Clearly I still have a lot to learn. Subs are in 0.8 cubic ft boxes so they are tiny
Taramps EQ Bass? do ah review please!
Hey theres a bass demo you played that i like, can i have the names of the demos you played please?
time stamp 6:16
whats the song at 5:48?
I heard that Taramps only like head units with 2v or less, is that true? This is the only thing keeping me from buying a Smart 3 or 5k
the new ones accept 4v
I'm subscribed...sheesh.
I'm working in North Carolina what city are you closest to
Love America Bass
Is the 8000w amp peak watts? I assume so. Just getting into sound systems so trying to learn
nah rms but you will never see 8k out of it on subs but on a dyno you will the smart bass series has smart ohm technology so it does 8k at .5-2ohm so wire down to .5 and you will see 8k or very close to it
What’s the song at 5:20
Salute.....
What’s the song at 7:36
Like 4th whattt lol. Awesome Parker.
Can I Run 2 Audiopipe BDC4 15s 2800w on a 1200 watt amp and will it sound good 🤔
did u find out ?
@@raccs600 no i run 2 skar zvx 12s on a 2300w jp23
If I remember correctly, which I probably don't. Every time you double the power, you get roughly 3db. So if 1500 watts hit 135. 3000 watts should hit 138. 6000 should be 141, etc.
I remember it that way too, but I am Mandella effected, so it's hard to say.
That is how it is on paper, +3Db every doubling of actual clamped r.m.s power, or cone area. But from real world testing i have rarely seen this happen. From 1 watt, to 2 watts, or very low power it is more likely. But every speaker gets a % of power compression, sooner, or later, untill there is little to no gain from power. @ or near max power compression, you must be very careful about not clipping, or the speaker will fail very quickly.
@@evilinside5984 Yeah. I was just saying what I learned 25 plus years ago. It might not even be right now days where everything is more efficient.
@@wijibo6772 I was just sharing my test results/experiences. Hope you were not offended, as this was not my intension, have a great day.
@@evilinside5984 No offense taken. It's always good to learn.
The best I ever did was a 152 with 4 fosgate hx2 12's with a sony xm2100g on each sub running 16 volts.
And that was with no door seals at all and mostly walled off from the back of the van.
Not into big stereos anymore.
They will destroy your ears and you will regret it later on.
Watch the 8k shatter the glass lol 😂
Bassheads I need help. I have a md12000.1 @.5 ohm slapping (4) DB Sa302d1’s. System basically gives me about 35 seconds of good run time and then shuts down. Blinks twice on the protect which says voltage below 9v on the manual. Problem is I haven’t seen it dip below 11.8 when it’s on full tilt. I have (2) alternators, one stock doing stock stuff. And one “380” powering 2 d1200 xs batteries. I have 2 runs of 2/0 to the back. Do you think I don’t have enough alternator, or should I look at lithium caps? I really don’t know which to aim at.
Wire up its pulling to much current. .5 is silly low on about any set up. 2 ohms will sound a better as well. More control of cone movement. And it will slap that is a good amplifier and subwoofer combo. .5 is crazy.
Those xs batteries aren't enough for 12k. I'd sell the xs powers and buy 100+ Ah in lithium instead.
A lot of us use headway cells, which are $6 ea and can be hooked up like a normal car battery.
Project DB makes bus bars for headway cells, they got a 128ah bus bar set for $345, comes with all the hardware you need to build it. (16 banks of 4 cells) 64 cells is about $400 shipped. For a total of $745 for cells and bus bars. You will want an active balancer which is roughly $60 for that size of a bank, get the capacitor balancer, not the diod version.
Edit: Headway 38120 cells, they are the red ones rated at 200amps, sold on batteryhookup.
@@Joe_1776 I was hoping to ditch those tiny xs and go lithium instead. Getting a triple alternator bracket for an expedition is nerve racking in general. The dual was tough enough. I appreciate the names I will look into those for sure. Thank you.
@@thomasnygard2334 .5 is necessary to achieve the full power of the amp on this one. I had my deaf bonce on 8k @2ohm because it was 8k@2ohm amplifier . This is 12k @ .5 ohm.
@@tristanloftis I hear ya, lithium is almost a must with that kind of an amp, unless you want 2000 pounds of agm in the back. Lol