This is a very nice tutorial. I followed instruction and tested after every change and understood and felt how the car behaves . From 2:00 min lap to 1:56 min immediately. Now I can tune any car ! Thank you ! Subbed !
This is very clear and helpful. Ive been tuning since fm2 and for a basic setup this is exactly what needs to be done. Here is an advanced course. The next step after this is checking tire temperature between the outside, middle, and inside. Open the telemetry by pushing down on the d-pad and find tire temps. If the middle is hotter pressure is too high, colder means too low. If the outside is hotter during a corner you can(if you think its worth trading forward or braking grip for better cornering)add more negative camber or positive caster. (Front and all wheel drive cars should have more heat on the outside because they have to trade some cornering grip for forward grip). Camber is always there while caster adds camber more as the wheel is turned. This means it adds negative camber when you turn sharper or have more grip which is good, but remember caster adds extra negative camber to the camber youve already set. Wheel telemetry should show current wheel camber in one of the screens. YOU NEVER WANT THIS TO SHOW A POSITIVE NUMBER! If it is your springs or sway bars are too soft (this makes the car react sluggishly while it leans from side to side but makes bumps and curbs less of an problem) or you just dont have enough camber from your camber and castor settings. Work on maximizing front grip with suspension settings and aero then only add enough grip to the rear for you to control. If you dont have to smoothly accelerate out of lower speed corners your car still has potential you can unlock with a more agressive tune and the skill to use it. Spring rates depend on personal preference. Softer is more forgiving of running over curbs and rougher tracks, but they take more time to lean from 1 side to the other, and shock settings can slow this down even more. So while your turning into a corner your car could in theory still be leaning farther and farther for quite some time. While your car has not "taken a set" your weight and suspension are still moving around. This can make the car corner 1 way well then feel like it takes a second to corner the other way in an s-turn. Or start cornering at first and then seeming to loose grip, or vice versa. Stiff springs and roll bars give a crisp ride but bumpier tracks and running over curbs can make your car skip along or even bounce into the air completely. They can handle lower ride heights without bottoming out and keep the car from leaning when changing directions. The tradeoff is that a stiff suspension doesn't hold the tire against the road quite as well. Imagine the tire being a basketball and instead of dribbling it over an obstacle where you let it bounce up a little then pushed it back down quickly but instead you just held it down with a straight arm. It would jar your shoulder and you and the ball wouldn't reach the ground again until gravity pulled you both back (this would be a solid suspension/no suspension and the ball would be the tire). This is why a stiffer spring can change the balance of a car, by slightly REDUCING the grip at the front or back. I typically cheat and use an app to calculate a spring rate for me. Remember to adjust for taste😂 Shock tuning is a bit of a black art Bump is extra resistance while the wheel moves up towards the car. This should be pretty soft because the spring is helping resist this movement too (ive found 2 to 3 works really well in FM8 recently) You can tell if this is too high if the car does any of the stuff i mentioned above for too stiff of a suspension but it goes away when the bump is adjusted lower. Rebound is the resistance while the wheel moves away from the car. It is being pushed away by the spring so the stiffer the springs the higher this setting needs to be. To keep the wheel from just bouncing along like a basketball being dribbled this needs to be set pretty high (9 to 11 in FM8 seems to work well). You can tell the rebound is too high if the car's ride height seems to lower during rough track sections, or if the car does any of the stuff i mentioned about too soft a suspension above but those problems go away when the rebound is adjusted down. Bound and rebound can be increased with better and better results until they become "critically damped". That is the point where the tire will have max grip over a bump. Unfortunately any stronger and it becomes overdamped and while thats bad for rebound its TERRIBLE for bump, so its best to err on the side of slightly underdamped. These settings have more in common with an offroad Baha truck than a track car, but they seem to work Roll centers are hard to explain. Its a point that acts as the pivot with the center of gravity(determined by cornering forces moving through control arm/axle positions if you were wondering). The farther down the roll center the farther away from the center of gravity. Its basically got more leverage to make the car lean around corners. Moving this negative makes the car act like its got softer springs around a corner while not causing ride height changes or bottoming out issues. Turning this up can cause the roll center to be high enough that the car will lean INTO a turn causing positive camber on the outside tire (POSITIVE CAMBER ON OUTSIDE WHEELS IS #1 NO NO)and unpredictable geometry changes. Ive started adjusting roll centers instead of roll bars to save a few PI on my builds though roll center adjustment is more of a big notchy change and roll bars give more control for exactly how much your changing(ive only adjusted cars 1 to 2 notches in testing with a large impact for each notch) As you can see most things you might change will affect other things. Its a good idea to go back and check telemetry for things you adjusted earlier that could need readjusted. Its all a balancing act and there is no perfect combination for every situation. Remember to always maximize front grip then adjust rear grip to match. Any rear grip not needed for cornering can be used to accelerate the car forward faster(unless its wrong-wheel-drive😂)
Wow, thank you for this detailed explanation! A lot of great information in here. 👍 If I ever do a part two I will probably reference some of this, great work! 😊
@@_Safusa_ to be honest, its just the same approach - start out by basically just resetting all the settings to a sensible starting point as shown in this video - then give it a quick test drive and see what it needs. The key thing with building "normal" cars for the track is to understand that the full "racing setup" (meaning race suspension and roll bars, racing tyres and a racing differential) is basically essential for EVERY car. If applying those takes your car outside your target class, then you simply need to rethink your target class or try a different car, because in my experience you will never get a competitive car without those upgrades applied.
Edit: First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy! It's finally done! This was quite a few weeks in the making and I really hope it will be helpful to you. I tried to simplify the tuning process by ignoring a lot of settings which just overcomplicate things. Instead I wanted to go really in-depth on everything else, while showing you actual examples of how I go about tuning for the Multiplayer Spec Series. The video got longer than expected, but I hope you don't mind! 😉 You can use the timestamps in the description if needed. Info grahpic by @NewoNZ: imgur.com/a/uPXHTEO
I watch a lot of videos to learn how to play and where to change things to improve what's bad. Here in Brazil, the guys put up videos teaching but they don't show what they are doing . Many set minimum and maximum values to place on cars. This makes it very difficult to learn. But your videos are perfect and teach a lot for people who have no experience. I've already learned a lot from your videos. You show the problem and where you can work to fix it. Congratulations on the channel and I'm already a fan.
Come across this video today and it’s helped greatly. Took your advice and ran the car stock at first, using the GP circuit at Silverstone, with my times averaging 2.17.8. Followed your tuning advice and was running 2.14’s consistently. Best lap was a 2.14.703. Car was the Peugeot #7 308 Touring Car. Thanks again! Will be using this as a guide for all future builds in the game.
Your tuning guide for beginners is actually effective and so helpful video to watch, follow, study, and understand. To be honest, that’s so deeply complex to tweak and tune the settings of the advanced sport car. I did try to challenge myself as a ghost rival on time attack. It’s a hugely successful attempt.
After watching this video yesterday, I started applying everything you said in the video to basically all my cars. After playing last night and this morning I already feel like I have a better understanding of tuning. Thank you for this!
Honestly a superb explanation, without all the superlatives, and hyperbole. HDR, I’ve been watching for a week or two, and I’ve now subscribed, please do more of these tuning guides, great work ❤
This is a pretty good start for those new to tuning! Nicely done. Just a few things to add to get a bit extra out of it: -Tire pressures are more effective than they ever have been in Forza. Some cars are fine stock, but some others need changes. Cars are very sensitive to having the wrong pressures, so telemetry comes in handy there. It also depends on the car - for example, the 60s F1 cars run around 20 PSI. -Lowering ride height to minimum is usually a quick an easy way to gain time. -In GT cars and touring cars specifically, full front and no rear aero is the standard, and you very rarely deviate from this. It's best to set this first and then change other settings around it. You usually need to adjust spring balance front to rear to make it more comfortable when doing that though. -Roll centers are extremely powerful balance tools, and they almost function like stronger anti-roll bars in the game. If anti-roll bars aren't doing enough, try adjusting roll centers the same way. -For FWD cars, you have the balance adjustments correct on differential settings, but 100% on accel is fully locked, not fully open. Forza seems to like it because you're minimizing torque loss to the front wheels, and the resulting torque steer is faster than a more open drive diff when you manage throttle properly. Just another Forza thing to keep in mind :)
Thanks for the input and corrections! I was thinking about including Roll Center in the guide, but decided against it in the end, as it was already getting quite long. Might be something for an eventual part two. 😄
@@HDeeRacing yea they're new to Forza, so even some guys who know Forza tuning have avoided them for now - perfectly reasonable to exclude them here. Again nicely done!
I would say that Tires are one of the easiest way to begin with a tuning. You can have the data displayed using the controler d-pad while driving. I always make sure that the tire pressure on all four tires is approximately the same and is around 2.25 bar. A lot can be achieved with this alone.
Really cool man. A great guide to get everyone on a level playing field. I love close racing and this guide is what every beginner needs. Keep up the great vids dude. ❤
Thanks a lot, this has helped me massively! I’ve gone over a lot of info but found it a lot better to take in the way you presented it - thanks again ❤
Excellent intro video. I've just picked the game up and intend to try to play as a sim, so manual shifting and trying to tune the cars as I go. Ny knowledge of car tuning is zero so this gives me a superb grounding to start from. Thank you.
Thank you sooooo much for this video. I am basically new to FM with my so called racing background being mainly Forza Horizon 5. I cannot get over the significant difference in the driving experience’s between the 2 games. Unlike FH5, tuning is essential in FM for game enjoyment and competitiveness. I was basically lost in how to tune until your video. I used your guidance on the DodgeViper for GT multiplayer last evening with success. I now have a car I feel I am controlling and not the reverse. Well done and thank you again.😀👍👍
Thank you this video has helped so much I went from average qualifying 10th to 14th to now I'm winning races and competing at the top consistently. I've watched a lot of these tutorial videos from people and spoke to some very fast racers as well and not once did the tuning ever really Click to me., until this video 🎉😅 So you must be doing something right buddy
Good work. Even though I've been tuning cars in sims for about 20 years I still like to look at how others do it as there is always something to learn and refine your knowledge in this massively complex area. It's also different from game to game so it's nice to see what people have discovered. Thanks for sharing, really well made video.
This guide is super helpful, thanks! It matches well with what I've started to learn as a new player, but simplifies the basics into a usable form. However, I'm a bit confused after randomly getting the unlocked tune glitch. I've seen absolutely wild tunes in all different directions from the top players in rivals. To avoid being rude and leaking tunes too much, I'm gonna talk just generally about their tunes. One player went 0.5/0.5 Toe OUT on the spec Audi RS3 and set the best time. The same player went -50/+150 on the Anti-Geometry settings on Suzuka to get their best time. A different player has basically the same setup on most of the cars their downloadable tunes, and it's entirely reversing the typical spring recommendations (Bump stiffness 10-11, Rebound 2-3), lowering rear ARBs for overtaking in corners, among other settings that fly in the face of the typical UA-cam tuning guides. But these setups kinda work when downloaded. They felt awful to me at first, but I quickly set between .4s and 1.5s faster laps in Rivals than my typical tuning (as found in this guide). Which often pushed me just like 1s below their own lap records. That being said, they weren't easy to drive tunes as someone playing his first racing game for only 2 weeks or so. All this is to say: would it be possible to make a video trying to break the limits of the "typical" realistic tuning guides, and to try find the max performance settings? Including things like: 0.5/0.5 Toe out, dropping Aero as low as possible, tweaking the springs in wild directions, and just overall maxing performance with unrealistic settings?
Even some hardcore simulations have exploitative tuning settings sometimes. I'm not surprised that those weird settings exist in Forza as well, though I am surprised how many there seem to be. I don't think I really want to get into that at this point.
Be advised! You can make your car much faster then what he shows. Make sure to watch other videos to see what they say. I run the Lynk and Co in multiplayer and having a faster tune is needed if you want to win. Keep speed, and tire wear in mind when racing online
Oh, you're 100% correct. This video was always intended for people to get started with tuning, who were always intimidated by it. You can get more out of your car if you dig deeper and learn more about tuning.
One of the biggest culprits in an unstable car is balance, and this is the springs. Springs are super easy to set up because it is simple math. First, center them. Make them the same by averaging them by eyeballing it, or use a calculator. 900 front 900 rear for example. Then press "Y" on your controller until you see weight distribution. If the front is lighter, you need to stiffen the front and soften the back. If the rear is lighter, do the opposite. For every 1% difference, you adjust the slider by 15lbs/inch (4kgf/mm) in each direction. Example: 48 Front/52 Rear. Move front spring stiffer 30 lbs/inch (8kgf/mm) and then the rear spring softer 30lbs/inch (8kgf/mm). You now have a balanced car at rest. This makes other tuning much easier. I do this before tuning anything else. Bonus tip: In front engine cars I tend to install ballast until the car is 50/50 distribution or closer to that, but limit the ballast to no more than the first 3 choices. This helps a lot more than you think it would. You can use ballast in rear or mid engine cars, but the tradeoff usually doesn't give you enough bang for the buck with the weight. Do take note that before you do this, using the weight reduction upgrades usually gets the car closer to 50/50 distribution as well. The same goes for adding a roll cage. So, when upgrading your car, do ballast last. Having said all that, it should be obvious that driving a well balanced car that sits properly on it's springs will be a much nicer car to drive from the get go than trying to force tune that stuff out. Then tune according to the video.
@@Krushking99 You can set the initial spring settings how you like. Just remember to balance them. The problem you have is more likely the rebound rates given on the next tab. I usually set the top two settings on 4.1 and the two bottom settings at 6.2, and adjust when needed. As for your initial settings, just make sure the spring don't top out or bottom out when driving. You can see the springs work in the telemetry UI. If the springs hit the top or bottom, they are too soft. The banked oval track in miami is a good track to check this.
This is a godsend. I just found this now in this old video and it makes things so much easier Granted, I have a mathematical disability, but this does help. I’ll just have to be really good with the Calculator.
Your videos are very useful for people who don't have much understanding of tuning and don't know where to go to fix car problems. I'm having problems with a tuning where the car skids a lot even when accelerating slowly and even when cornering. And I have a question about the differential: when do we have to increase it and when do we have to decrease it?
Thank you. To your question I would refer you to the info graphic: imgur.com/a/hdeeracing-tuning-infographic-uPXHTEO You should change the acceleration diff for problems on the throttle and deceleration for off-throttle behaviour.
I've been using your guide and have found it quite helpful. However, I found something interesting while experimenting with the Essenza at Silverstone International, a track I'm already quite familiar with. Initially, with the stock tune, my best lap time was 1:01.935. After adjusting only the differential, this improved to 1:01.304. Further refinements to the balance brought it down to 1:00.802. But, things took a turn when I applied your aero settings. The car started to oversteer significantly, particularly during braking, which not only made it harder to control but also resulted in a slower best time of 1:02.172, even worse than with the stock tune. Any comments?
If you start to notice increased oversteer under braking, increasing rear Aero can help, as well as moving the brake bias more towards the front. Tunes are always a bit dependent on the driver, which is why I always encourage people to do exactly what you did and figure out what works for you. I made an updated tune for the Essenza btw if you want to take a look: ua-cam.com/video/Rgb7PZ0gg8Y/v-deo.html
Great video man, love this. You got a sub from me. I would love to see another tuning video for street cars and really any other types as well, great content.
@HDeeRacing ty so much for this basic tune. until now i had no desire to buy the Essenza to use in GT races but now that i copied your basic tune here i absolutely love it and as a Lambo lover this pleases me to be able to use it for racing
Thank you, trully amazing tutorial! Will have to try it out. Do you have any tips or perhaps a video for AWD cars? I'm struggling with Audi R8 V10 AWD tuning which I upgraded to R899 - the car seems to start "sliding" to much when braking, not oversteer, just sliding/losing traction a lot (using race tyers, widest available are set).
On the Alignement settings I set the TOE to +0.1 (front) and -0.1 on the rear on the most GT cars. I think every driver just try it out for itself a bit.
Nice video and thank you for the tips. However I still have a hard time tuning when everything is explained simply as more/less understeer/oversteer. I want to know what makes more grip, responsiveness and control. Also I know what does what, but I never know what order to do things in so that the tune can slowly come together as a whole rather than just trying one thing out at a time. For example a certain spring rate might be perfect but only after I have everything else right, but until I have everything else right I never know if im going in the wrong or right direction. Learned a lot and will keep trying though. thank you.
Super simply, more stiff means more response. Grip is made from tyres being in contact with the ground, and a softer setup allows for this. Dampers control transient behavior (like the moment you brake or turn in or get on power), softer = slower, stiffer = faster responses which you could equate to "control". Generally, I would go for the softest setup, at the lowest ride height that doesn't bottom out on curbs and that still allows good input response. Keep playing and trying stuff out and see what feels good to you, also never stop learning :)
Finding balance is the key to all tuning, there is no one thing that works for every car and changing one thing often affects another! You are trying to find that sweet spot between under and oversteer where you'll get the most grip. Responsiveness is down to taste, some like a snappy car, some like smooth and predictable. Everything is dependent on the car, track, conditions and driving style. Spring rate is mainly for balancing the entire weight of your car and the balance between front and rear distribution. Starting at tyre pressures and diff is a good start but I usually like to get the spring rate and ride height in first though the default is usually not far off in most cases. I think this guide is pretty much spot on in the order of changes to make but again, tuning is so personal to each driver and car there is nothing wrong with taking all the info you can and finding your own way. The more you do it the more you will remember. You can spend a few minutes and get a general improvement or you can spend hours testing and tweaking to get the max out of the car. I tend to go in with the intention of a quick tweak and end up spending an hour or more doing laps and tweaks but that's just me, I always feel I can get just a little bit more, then I wreck the tune then go back a few steps! Sorry for rambling, I love this topic lol. It's a rabbit hole with no end.
Thankyou!! Your channel is very underrated. Hope you blow up! One question do you have any idea the conversion from kgf/mm to lb/in? Dumb American here haha. Was able to convert and match everything else but guessed on my springs matching the yellow bars as close as I could
Thank you. I have no idea on the spring rate conversion in Forza. The units don't seem to line up if you take a unit converter. I think the easiest way would be to switch units ingame and calculate the conversion rate.
Freaking awesome tutorial!! I can't unsee the lod models creeping in on the tree models though :(, I had the same problem with Shift 2 I could not unsee them once I noticed them LOL. I guess gearing makes all the difference and I am assuming its per track.
Great stuff. The suspension windows are intimidating. Especially damping. There’s no baseline. It just says to start low… Video on street cars I would appreciate
@@HDeeRacingbut I have to fiddle with EVERY setting 😅 this is so well done! Hopefully it will reduce my reliance on apps solely for mathematical purposes and my own knowledge will evolve and shift given Forza and real world application.
I've always done all my own tuning. I was confident in FH5, but I'm still learning for FM(8). This video could be quite helpful for me. I have been lowering my springs (maybe for street cars--I haven't really been differentiating them.), sometimes all the way down, or maybe up to two clicks up. I'm not sure yet what's best.
@@HDeeRacingive found stiff springs(stiffer than i would normally use)and very low shock bound (2 to 3) and very high rebound(9 to 10.5) work surprisingly well
Hey, great video. I hope you don't mind but I took some crude screenshots from your video along with some notes and created an infographic to use as a reference. I have emailed it to you as youtube seems to just delete my comment when I include the link to an external image hosting site. I thought that others could benefit from this as well.
Thanks and just subbed. FM8 is the only sim ive been interested in tuning although i really wish non race cars would have liveries in freeplay but ive raced n tuned them in career. I've watched plenty of different tuning vids with some similarities but looking forward to trying out your info. 👍
Thank you! I sometimes adjust spring rates, but for this guide they were way too complicated, with all the interplay with ride height and dampeners. Usually they're also set quite well for the spec series cars.
19:40 Surely 100% FWD front diff accel has to be wrong. Theoretically it should be causing more tire wear any time the car is turning on the gas and FWD cars consume the front tires first. But who knows. Sometimes the game feels like it is a stack of band aids and fixes rather than a physics engine so maybe Forza values are faster?
It seems like these older cars without actual race tires operate differently. I was not aware while making this video. Probably best to keep the pressures at stock then.
Please! Please 🙏 can you teach Street cars?? As I find it hard to tune them and I think a lot of viewers enjoy them also. Great fun driving the low PI cars too
You could ask that in english as well on an english video. 😄 Making the first gear longer, so more towards speed can help. Though a bit of wheel spin is normal and good at the start.
There is a touring car in this video. They do understeer and chew through tires more than GTs, not much you can do about that other than what I showed.
Indirectly, yes. I personally don't have any rules for tuning based on engine placement. But where the enginge sits does most of the time affect car behavior quite a lot.
Спасибо! На русском языке такой информации нет. Не думал перевести с помощью нейросети? THX A LOT! There is no any information like that in russian. Would u like to translate video using neural network?
You're welcome. There are subtitles available, which are auto translated into a lot of languages. From my experience these work quite well. Hope that helps.
@@HDeeRacing oo nono I mean that nonenglish speakers must search on English, wich isn't ease at all) so if your video calls on English, we can't find it searching on our native language. P.s. not making u to do neuro-translate, just clear out my thoughts
I really prefer to race modded road cars. Mostly because they are more attainable to something I mIght actually run on a track sometime, cuz let’s face it. Most of us will never drive purpose built race cars on a track. However, we are very likely to take the car in our driveways to a track.
I don't think I'll ever take my car to the track. 😅 But I get where you're coming from. It's one of the really nice things about Forza, it doesn't exlusivley focus on race cars.
@@HDeeRacing that is true, but with c-s class lobbies only having one of the classes available for a few days, and then none of the others all week with gt classes available all the time it feel like that’s what they want us doing. Plus with the new mod system, it just feels like more of a hassle to try to build the car you really want to build.
Ok I'm looking for a No-Shit answer here. This is my first Forza and everytime I try MP income close to last. This is a skill gap right? Not bc my car isn't tuned correctly? I need to learn the cars and tracks... right?
It can can be both tbh. Learning the tracks and cars helps a lot but some cars also really need to be tuned to perform. You need a bit of luck too in each race, depending on how many times someone uses your car as a speed breaker and spins you out of the track. Following this simple guide video will give you a good start.
Learning the tracks can be very beneficial, yes. I would pick one car you enjoy for each of the series and take that to rivals or just races without AI in single player to really get to know the car and tracks.
I'll tell u both this.....after watching the video and adjusting ,applying more or less here and there...I already have faster times. Close too 2 seconds on the 2 cars I have been working on. The Acura and the BMW in GT class!¡
I appreciate the fact that you were actually more or less accurate when it comes to Forza tuning. However, you made an important mistake when it comes to tire pressures. Anything above 2.0 BAR in race tires is a hyper inflated balloon that is making you lose time during laps (All the other points you touched on are more or less correct). Also, you didn't address suspension, geometry and damping which are essential tuning mechanics, since the stock settings are atrocious. If you wish to make another video dealing with the more advanced mechanics, I'm happy to get in touch with you on discord and help you with that.
I wanted to get more into this guide, but it already ran so long, that I had to cut down on what to include for this. But thank you for the input and the offer to help for if I ever make a part two.
Yeah, no worries. Good job anyway. This is the FIRST guide that is even remotely accurate, and can actually help people be more competitive.@@HDeeRacing
I stopped watching at gearing if only necessary. It’s always necessary if possible. First thing you should learn or you are leaving free performance on the table. You can tailet the gears for drive out of specific corners unless you run an auto box. There’s still room to do it there but it’s harder.
Gearing can be really finicky and time-consuming to get right. And you can get way more performance from some of the other settings imo. This is why I put it as "only if necessary" for this Beginners Guide.
Please turn down the background race noise im trying to learn from you not hear engine, or play it at certain times but we are trying to concentrate on what your saying
@@HDeeRacing it is ok 99% of the drivers in this game don’t know how to tune. 1) you put gearing “if needed” all the stock gears are slow in modern GT and Touring Cars and need to be changed. 2) you put “none” for springs? 3) none for damping? 4) none for suspension geometry? 5) all the fast guys use the same aero 95% of the time. I wish you luck on your channel I do but at least give people the right information. So yes no need to watch the rest cause I know it ain’t good advice.
This is a very nice tutorial. I followed instruction and tested after every change and understood and felt how the car behaves . From 2:00 min lap to 1:56 min immediately. Now I can tune any car !
Thank you ! Subbed !
Thank you, I'm very glad to hear that! 😊
This is very clear and helpful. Ive been tuning since fm2 and for a basic setup this is exactly what needs to be done. Here is an advanced course.
The next step after this is checking tire temperature between the outside, middle, and inside. Open the telemetry by pushing down on the d-pad and find tire temps. If the middle is hotter pressure is too high, colder means too low.
If the outside is hotter during a corner you can(if you think its worth trading forward or braking grip for better cornering)add more negative camber or positive caster. (Front and all wheel drive cars should have more heat on the outside because they have to trade some cornering grip for forward grip). Camber is always there while caster adds camber more as the wheel is turned. This means it adds negative camber when you turn sharper or have more grip which is good, but remember caster adds extra negative camber to the camber youve already set.
Wheel telemetry should show current wheel camber in one of the screens. YOU NEVER WANT THIS TO SHOW A POSITIVE NUMBER! If it is your springs or sway bars are too soft (this makes the car react sluggishly while it leans from side to side but makes bumps and curbs less of an problem) or you just dont have enough camber from your camber and castor settings.
Work on maximizing front grip with suspension settings and aero then only add enough grip to the rear for you to control. If you dont have to smoothly accelerate out of lower speed corners your car still has potential you can unlock with a more agressive tune and the skill to use it.
Spring rates depend on personal preference.
Softer is more forgiving of running over curbs and rougher tracks, but they take more time to lean from 1 side to the other, and shock settings can slow this down even more. So while your turning into a corner your car could in theory still be leaning farther and farther for quite some time. While your car has not "taken a set" your weight and suspension are still moving around. This can make the car corner 1 way well then feel like it takes a second to corner the other way in an s-turn. Or start cornering at first and then seeming to loose grip, or vice versa.
Stiff springs and roll bars give a crisp ride but bumpier tracks and running over curbs can make your car skip along or even bounce into the air completely. They can handle lower ride heights without bottoming out and keep the car from leaning when changing directions. The tradeoff is that a stiff suspension doesn't hold the tire against the road quite as well. Imagine the tire being a basketball and instead of dribbling it over an obstacle where you let it bounce up a little then pushed it back down quickly but instead you just held it down with a straight arm. It would jar your shoulder and you and the ball wouldn't reach the ground again until gravity pulled you both back (this would be a solid suspension/no suspension and the ball would be the tire).
This is why a stiffer spring can change the balance of a car, by slightly REDUCING the grip at the front or back.
I typically cheat and use an app to calculate a spring rate for me. Remember to adjust for taste😂
Shock tuning is a bit of a black art
Bump is extra resistance while the wheel moves up towards the car. This should be pretty soft because the spring is helping resist this movement too (ive found 2 to 3 works really well in FM8 recently)
You can tell if this is too high if the car does any of the stuff i mentioned above for too stiff of a suspension but it goes away when the bump is adjusted lower.
Rebound is the resistance while the wheel moves away from the car. It is being pushed away by the spring so the stiffer the springs the higher this setting needs to be. To keep the wheel from just bouncing along like a basketball being dribbled this needs to be set pretty high (9 to 11 in FM8 seems to work well). You can tell the rebound is too high if the car's ride height seems to lower during rough track sections, or if the car does any of the stuff i mentioned about too soft a suspension above but those problems go away when the rebound is adjusted down.
Bound and rebound can be increased with better and better results until they become "critically damped". That is the point where the tire will have max grip over a bump. Unfortunately any stronger and it becomes overdamped and while thats bad for rebound its TERRIBLE for bump, so its best to err on the side of slightly underdamped. These settings have more in common with an offroad Baha truck than a track car, but they seem to work
Roll centers are hard to explain. Its a point that acts as the pivot with the center of gravity(determined by cornering forces moving through control arm/axle positions if you were wondering). The farther down the roll center the farther away from the center of gravity. Its basically got more leverage to make the car lean around corners. Moving this negative makes the car act like its got softer springs around a corner while not causing ride height changes or bottoming out issues.
Turning this up can cause the roll center to be high enough that the car will lean INTO a turn causing positive camber on the outside tire (POSITIVE CAMBER ON OUTSIDE WHEELS IS #1 NO NO)and unpredictable geometry changes.
Ive started adjusting roll centers instead of roll bars to save a few PI on my builds though roll center adjustment is more of a big notchy change and roll bars give more control for exactly how much your changing(ive only adjusted cars 1 to 2 notches in testing with a large impact for each notch)
As you can see most things you might change will affect other things. Its a good idea to go back and check telemetry for things you adjusted earlier that could need readjusted. Its all a balancing act and there is no perfect combination for every situation.
Remember to always maximize front grip then adjust rear grip to match. Any rear grip not needed for cornering can be used to accelerate the car forward faster(unless its wrong-wheel-drive😂)
Wow, thank you for this detailed explanation! A lot of great information in here. 👍 If I ever do a part two I will probably reference some of this, great work! 😊
I would love to see one on modding non race cars... Some have such odd baseline values, it is really tough to determine where to start.
Alright, I will see what I can do. 😊
I want to see the same! I really want to learn to tune race and normal cars!
Agreed
@@HDeeRacingpls do..
@@_Safusa_ to be honest, its just the same approach - start out by basically just resetting all the settings to a sensible starting point as shown in this video - then give it a quick test drive and see what it needs.
The key thing with building "normal" cars for the track is to understand that the full "racing setup" (meaning race suspension and roll bars, racing tyres and a racing differential) is basically essential for EVERY car. If applying those takes your car outside your target class, then you simply need to rethink your target class or try a different car, because in my experience you will never get a competitive car without those upgrades applied.
Edit: First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy!
It's finally done! This was quite a few weeks in the making and I really hope it will be helpful to you. I tried to simplify the tuning process by ignoring a lot of settings which just overcomplicate things. Instead I wanted to go really in-depth on everything else, while showing you actual examples of how I go about tuning for the Multiplayer Spec Series. The video got longer than expected, but I hope you don't mind! 😉 You can use the timestamps in the description if needed.
Info grahpic by @NewoNZ: imgur.com/a/uPXHTEO
I watch a lot of videos to learn how to play and where to change things to improve what's bad. Here in Brazil, the guys put up videos teaching but they don't show what they are doing . Many set minimum and maximum values to place on cars. This makes it very difficult to learn. But your videos are perfect and teach a lot for people who have no experience. I've already learned a lot from your videos. You show the problem and where you can work to fix it. Congratulations on the channel and I'm already a fan.
Awesome to hear, thank you! 😊 Greetings to Brazil. 👍
Come across this video today and it’s helped greatly. Took your advice and ran the car stock at first, using the GP circuit at Silverstone, with my times averaging 2.17.8.
Followed your tuning advice and was running 2.14’s consistently. Best lap was a 2.14.703. Car was the Peugeot #7 308 Touring Car.
Thanks again! Will be using this as a guide for all future builds in the game.
Happy to hear that! This video is now getting a little bit old, I'm glad it still holds value. 😊
This is the most wholesome tutorial I think I’ve ever seen
I appreciate all the effort you put into this. I can’t help but say, 40-60 mins of works to save 1 sec, sounds like a dark souls racer.
I get that, but I guess that is competitive racing. 🙈
Best beginner guide i ever seen! I wached like million of them and you are the first gouy that explained wtf is this all about xD. Ty so much!
Your tuning guide for beginners is actually effective and so helpful video to watch, follow, study, and understand. To be honest, that’s so deeply complex to tweak and tune the settings of the advanced sport car. I did try to challenge myself as a ghost rival on time attack. It’s a hugely successful attempt.
I'm very happy to hear that. 😊
After watching this video yesterday, I started applying everything you said in the video to basically all my cars.
After playing last night and this morning I already feel like I have a better understanding of tuning.
Thank you for this!
Glad it helped
I'd tell you if it didn't believe me!
This gave me the basic understanding I needed.
Thank you for this!
As a first time Forza player, this is exactly what we need!
I'm glad that it is helpful! 😊
Honestly a superb explanation, without all the superlatives, and hyperbole. HDR, I’ve been watching for a week or two, and I’ve now subscribed, please do more of these tuning guides, great work ❤
Great to hear, thank you! 😊
This is a pretty good start for those new to tuning! Nicely done. Just a few things to add to get a bit extra out of it:
-Tire pressures are more effective than they ever have been in Forza. Some cars are fine stock, but some others need changes. Cars are very sensitive to having the wrong pressures, so telemetry comes in handy there. It also depends on the car - for example, the 60s F1 cars run around 20 PSI.
-Lowering ride height to minimum is usually a quick an easy way to gain time.
-In GT cars and touring cars specifically, full front and no rear aero is the standard, and you very rarely deviate from this. It's best to set this first and then change other settings around it. You usually need to adjust spring balance front to rear to make it more comfortable when doing that though.
-Roll centers are extremely powerful balance tools, and they almost function like stronger anti-roll bars in the game. If anti-roll bars aren't doing enough, try adjusting roll centers the same way.
-For FWD cars, you have the balance adjustments correct on differential settings, but 100% on accel is fully locked, not fully open. Forza seems to like it because you're minimizing torque loss to the front wheels, and the resulting torque steer is faster than a more open drive diff when you manage throttle properly. Just another Forza thing to keep in mind :)
Thanks for the input and corrections! I was thinking about including Roll Center in the guide, but decided against it in the end, as it was already getting quite long. Might be something for an eventual part two. 😄
@@HDeeRacing yea they're new to Forza, so even some guys who know Forza tuning have avoided them for now - perfectly reasonable to exclude them here. Again nicely done!
This is the best basic tuning vid ive seen yet. Subscribed! 💪
Thank you so much! 😊
I would say that Tires are one of the easiest way to begin with a tuning.
You can have the data displayed using the controler d-pad while driving. I always make sure that the tire pressure on all four tires is approximately the same and is around 2.25 bar.
A lot can be achieved with this alone.
Really cool man. A great guide to get everyone on a level playing field. I love close racing and this guide is what every beginner needs. Keep up the great vids dude. ❤
Thank you, will do! 😊
This was the best video for me to understand AND APPLY the knowledge into forza tunning, thank you!
Awesome! 😊
Thanks a lot, this has helped me massively! I’ve gone over a lot of info but found it a lot better to take in the way you presented it - thanks again ❤
Awesome to hear! 😊
Excellent intro video. I've just picked the game up and intend to try to play as a sim, so manual shifting and trying to tune the cars as I go. Ny knowledge of car tuning is zero so this gives me a superb grounding to start from. Thank you.
You're very welcome. 😊
Thank you sooooo much for this video. I am basically new to FM with my so called racing background being mainly Forza Horizon 5. I cannot get over the significant difference in the driving experience’s between the 2 games. Unlike FH5, tuning is essential in FM for game enjoyment and competitiveness. I was basically lost in how to tune until your video. I used your guidance on the DodgeViper for GT multiplayer last evening with success. I now have a car I feel I am controlling and not the reverse. Well done and thank you again.😀👍👍
Amazing to hear! Welcome to the Motorsport world, I hope you have a great time. 😊
Thank you this video has helped so much I went from average qualifying 10th to 14th to now I'm winning races and competing at the top consistently.
I've watched a lot of these tutorial videos from people and spoke to some very fast racers as well and not once did the tuning ever really Click to me., until this video 🎉😅
So you must be doing something right buddy
That is awesome to hear! 😊
Good work. Even though I've been tuning cars in sims for about 20 years I still like to look at how others do it as there is always something to learn and refine your knowledge in this massively complex area. It's also different from game to game so it's nice to see what people have discovered. Thanks for sharing, really well made video.
Thank you so much!
This guide is super helpful, thanks! It matches well with what I've started to learn as a new player, but simplifies the basics into a usable form.
However, I'm a bit confused after randomly getting the unlocked tune glitch. I've seen absolutely wild tunes in all different directions from the top players in rivals.
To avoid being rude and leaking tunes too much, I'm gonna talk just generally about their tunes.
One player went 0.5/0.5 Toe OUT on the spec Audi RS3 and set the best time. The same player went -50/+150 on the Anti-Geometry settings on Suzuka to get their best time.
A different player has basically the same setup on most of the cars their downloadable tunes, and it's entirely reversing the typical spring recommendations (Bump stiffness 10-11, Rebound 2-3), lowering rear ARBs for overtaking in corners, among other settings that fly in the face of the typical UA-cam tuning guides.
But these setups kinda work when downloaded. They felt awful to me at first, but I quickly set between .4s and 1.5s faster laps in Rivals than my typical tuning (as found in this guide). Which often pushed me just like 1s below their own lap records. That being said, they weren't easy to drive tunes as someone playing his first racing game for only 2 weeks or so.
All this is to say: would it be possible to make a video trying to break the limits of the "typical" realistic tuning guides, and to try find the max performance settings?
Including things like: 0.5/0.5 Toe out, dropping Aero as low as possible, tweaking the springs in wild directions, and just overall maxing performance with unrealistic settings?
Even some hardcore simulations have exploitative tuning settings sometimes. I'm not surprised that those weird settings exist in Forza as well, though I am surprised how many there seem to be. I don't think I really want to get into that at this point.
so detailed video, helped me a lot!
Great to hear! 😊
Great explanation!! Thank you so much!
Be advised! You can make your car much faster then what he shows. Make sure to watch other videos to see what they say. I run the Lynk and Co in multiplayer and having a faster tune is needed if you want to win. Keep speed, and tire wear in mind when racing online
Oh, you're 100% correct. This video was always intended for people to get started with tuning, who were always intimidated by it. You can get more out of your car if you dig deeper and learn more about tuning.
Yes please make a tuning guide for street cars! Thanjs
Noted!
First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy!
Great video. Great help. Thanks
Thank you, glad you found it useful!
Viel Erfolg für dein Kanal!
Vielen Dank!
One of the biggest culprits in an unstable car is balance, and this is the springs. Springs are super easy to set up because it is simple math. First, center them. Make them the same by averaging them by eyeballing it, or use a calculator. 900 front 900 rear for example. Then press "Y" on your controller until you see weight distribution. If the front is lighter, you need to stiffen the front and soften the back. If the rear is lighter, do the opposite. For every 1% difference, you adjust the slider by 15lbs/inch (4kgf/mm) in each direction. Example: 48 Front/52 Rear. Move front spring stiffer 30 lbs/inch (8kgf/mm) and then the rear spring softer 30lbs/inch (8kgf/mm). You now have a balanced car at rest. This makes other tuning much easier. I do this before tuning anything else. Bonus tip: In front engine cars I tend to install ballast until the car is 50/50 distribution or closer to that, but limit the ballast to no more than the first 3 choices. This helps a lot more than you think it would. You can use ballast in rear or mid engine cars, but the tradeoff usually doesn't give you enough bang for the buck with the weight. Do take note that before you do this, using the weight reduction upgrades usually gets the car closer to 50/50 distribution as well. The same goes for adding a roll cage. So, when upgrading your car, do ballast last. Having said all that, it should be obvious that driving a well balanced car that sits properly on it's springs will be a much nicer car to drive from the get go than trying to force tune that stuff out. Then tune according to the video.
Thank you for this detailed explanation. This could be very helpful to other people as well.
@@HDeeRacing
You are most welcome. Tuning is fun once you know how to approach it.
Would it be reasonable to halve the adjustment if the car feels a little too bouncy (i.e radillion)? Like if it was initially 90lbs make it 45?
@@Krushking99
You can set the initial spring settings how you like. Just remember to balance them. The problem you have is more likely the rebound rates given on the next tab. I usually set the top two settings on 4.1 and the two bottom settings at 6.2, and adjust when needed. As for your initial settings, just make sure the spring don't top out or bottom out when driving. You can see the springs work in the telemetry UI. If the springs hit the top or bottom, they are too soft. The banked oval track in miami is a good track to check this.
This is a godsend. I just found this now in this old video and it makes things so much easier
Granted, I have a mathematical disability, but this does help. I’ll just have to be really good with the Calculator.
Your videos are very useful for people who don't have much understanding of tuning and don't know where to go to fix car problems. I'm having problems with a tuning where the car skids a lot even when accelerating slowly and even when cornering. And I have a question about the differential: when do we have to increase it and when do we have to decrease it?
Thank you. To your question I would refer you to the info graphic: imgur.com/a/hdeeracing-tuning-infographic-uPXHTEO You should change the acceleration diff for problems on the throttle and deceleration for off-throttle behaviour.
Thanks. Wished you added an AWD sample.
There are almost no AWD cars in the spec series, which is why I didn't include it here. I will include, if I make another guide for sure though.
I've been using your guide and have found it quite helpful. However, I found something interesting while experimenting with the Essenza at Silverstone International, a track I'm already quite familiar with. Initially, with the stock tune, my best lap time was 1:01.935. After adjusting only the differential, this improved to 1:01.304. Further refinements to the balance brought it down to 1:00.802. But, things took a turn when I applied your aero settings. The car started to oversteer significantly, particularly during braking, which not only made it harder to control but also resulted in a slower best time of 1:02.172, even worse than with the stock tune. Any comments?
If you start to notice increased oversteer under braking, increasing rear Aero can help, as well as moving the brake bias more towards the front. Tunes are always a bit dependent on the driver, which is why I always encourage people to do exactly what you did and figure out what works for you.
I made an updated tune for the Essenza btw if you want to take a look: ua-cam.com/video/Rgb7PZ0gg8Y/v-deo.html
Great video man, love this. You got a sub from me. I would love to see another tuning video for street cars and really any other types as well, great content.
Thank you so much, I will see what I can do. 😊
First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy!
nice mate finally someone make video about this
Well done. Great production.
Thank you! 😊
@HDeeRacing ty so much for this basic tune. until now i had no desire to buy the Essenza to use in GT races but now that i copied your basic tune here i absolutely love it and as a Lambo lover this pleases me to be able to use it for racing
Awesome, have fun! 😊
Great clear and well explained, thank you Shane uk 🇬🇧
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, trully amazing tutorial! Will have to try it out. Do you have any tips or perhaps a video for AWD cars? I'm struggling with Audi R8 V10 AWD tuning which I upgraded to R899 - the car seems to start "sliding" to much when braking, not oversteer, just sliding/losing traction a lot (using race tyers, widest available are set).
I've touched on AWD tuning in a recent video, maybe that helps: ua-cam.com/video/T3Ifn4m2m-o/v-deo.html
803rd Subscriber...Really good explanantion
Thank you!
On the Alignement settings I set the TOE to +0.1 (front) and -0.1 on the rear on the most GT cars. I think every driver just try it out for itself a bit.
That can definitly help. I used to do that in Horizon as well.
Nice video and thank you for the tips. However I still have a hard time tuning when everything is explained simply as more/less understeer/oversteer. I want to know what makes more grip, responsiveness and control.
Also I know what does what, but I never know what order to do things in so that the tune can slowly come together as a whole rather than just trying one thing out at a time. For example a certain spring rate might be perfect but only after I have everything else right, but until I have everything else right I never know if im going in the wrong or right direction. Learned a lot and will keep trying though. thank you.
Super simply, more stiff means more response. Grip is made from tyres being in contact with the ground, and a softer setup allows for this. Dampers control transient behavior (like the moment you brake or turn in or get on power), softer = slower, stiffer = faster responses which you could equate to "control". Generally, I would go for the softest setup, at the lowest ride height that doesn't bottom out on curbs and that still allows good input response.
Keep playing and trying stuff out and see what feels good to you, also never stop learning :)
Finding balance is the key to all tuning, there is no one thing that works for every car and changing one thing often affects another! You are trying to find that sweet spot between under and oversteer where you'll get the most grip. Responsiveness is down to taste, some like a snappy car, some like smooth and predictable. Everything is dependent on the car, track, conditions and driving style. Spring rate is mainly for balancing the entire weight of your car and the balance between front and rear distribution. Starting at tyre pressures and diff is a good start but I usually like to get the spring rate and ride height in first though the default is usually not far off in most cases.
I think this guide is pretty much spot on in the order of changes to make but again, tuning is so personal to each driver and car there is nothing wrong with taking all the info you can and finding your own way. The more you do it the more you will remember. You can spend a few minutes and get a general improvement or you can spend hours testing and tweaking to get the max out of the car. I tend to go in with the intention of a quick tweak and end up spending an hour or more doing laps and tweaks but that's just me, I always feel I can get just a little bit more, then I wreck the tune then go back a few steps! Sorry for rambling, I love this topic lol. It's a rabbit hole with no end.
@@legendarycheekymonkey +1 for this fella
Thanks to both of you guys!
Thankyou!! Your channel is very underrated. Hope you blow up! One question do you have any idea the conversion from kgf/mm to lb/in? Dumb American here haha. Was able to convert and match everything else but guessed on my springs matching the yellow bars as close as I could
Thank you. I have no idea on the spring rate conversion in Forza. The units don't seem to line up if you take a unit converter. I think the easiest way would be to switch units ingame and calculate the conversion rate.
@@HDeeRacing Thankyou, what language do you have your game set to
English@@burr7259
Freaking awesome tutorial!! I can't unsee the lod models creeping in on the tree models though :(, I had the same problem with Shift 2 I could not unsee them once I noticed them LOL. I guess gearing makes all the difference and I am assuming its per track.
Thank you! Cheers.
You're welcome! 😊
Yes! More tunes on other types of cars
I'll see what I can do. 😊
First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy!
Great stuff. The suspension windows are intimidating. Especially damping. There’s no baseline. It just says to start low…
Video on street cars I would appreciate
Thank you! Yes, the suspension I rarely touch. 😄
Will keep that in mind.
@@HDeeRacingbut I have to fiddle with EVERY setting 😅 this is so well done! Hopefully it will reduce my reliance on apps solely for mathematical purposes and my own knowledge will evolve and shift given Forza and real world application.
First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy!
I've always done all my own tuning. I was confident in FH5, but I'm still learning for FM(8). This video could be quite helpful for me. I have been lowering my springs (maybe for street cars--I haven't really been differentiating them.), sometimes all the way down, or maybe up to two clicks up. I'm not sure yet what's best.
I've found springs and dampeners so difficult to get right in the new Forza.
@@HDeeRacingive found stiff springs(stiffer than i would normally use)and very low shock bound (2 to 3) and very high rebound(9 to 10.5) work surprisingly well
some cars are so amazing that you get great lap times just by focusing :D
😆
What a great vídeo!
Great video thanks
You're welcome.
Good video thank you any other advice you have would be great thanks again!
Hey, great video.
I hope you don't mind but I took some crude screenshots from your video along with some notes and created an infographic to use as a reference. I have emailed it to you as youtube seems to just delete my comment when I include the link to an external image hosting site. I thought that others could benefit from this as well.
Thank you so much, I love this! 😊 Will put it in the description and the top comment so others can see it as well.
Was wondering how you would build/tune the regular lynk&co to be a online B class car. I believe it's AWD. so it's been giving me some trouble
Haven't tried that one for Open B yet.
@@HDeeRacing I actually built a pretty sick tune for it on b class. Podium finishes.
Thanks and just subbed. FM8 is the only sim ive been interested in tuning although i really wish non race cars would have liveries in freeplay but ive raced n tuned them in career.
I've watched plenty of different tuning vids with some similarities but looking forward to trying out your info. 👍
Thank you. 😊 I think I've seen you in online race before or at least your name seems familiar.
This is great, thank you. Do you use a wheel or controller?
You're welcome! I'm using a fanatec wheel, details in the description.
Great video! I noticed that you did not adjust spring rates, have you found that it's usually not worth the trouble (at least for these cars)?
Thank you! I sometimes adjust spring rates, but for this guide they were way too complicated, with all the interplay with ride height and dampeners. Usually they're also set quite well for the spec series cars.
19:40 Surely 100% FWD front diff accel has to be wrong. Theoretically it should be causing more tire wear any time the car is turning on the gas and FWD cars consume the front tires first. But who knows. Sometimes the game feels like it is a stack of band aids and fixes rather than a physics engine so maybe Forza values are faster?
Just Forza things, not really realistic. It's faster for sure. Tire wear might be adversely affected, it seems to depend on the car and driving style.
Hey. Stock tune for Honda R300 in spec series has tire pressures 1.4-1.5. Making it usual 2.0-2.2 makes the car handle worse. Why is this so?
It seems like these older cars without actual race tires operate differently. I was not aware while making this video. Probably best to keep the pressures at stock then.
Please! Please 🙏 can you teach Street cars?? As I find it hard to tune them and I think a lot of viewers enjoy them also. Great fun driving the low PI cars too
I will see what I can do. 👍
First video on upgrading non-race cars is out now: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html Hope you enjoy!
I didn’t know Sieghart played Forza, too! He’s supposed to be running his store in Neon, not teaching people how to tune in Forza!
Why can't I do both? 😜
Beim Start drehen bei manchen Autos die Reifen durch ..
Welche Settings muss ich da bearbeiten?
You could ask that in english as well on an english video. 😄
Making the first gear longer, so more towards speed can help. Though a bit of wheel spin is normal and good at the start.
Can you please tune front wheel touring cars? They all understeer bad and wear front tires out to quick
There is a touring car in this video. They do understeer and chew through tires more than GTs, not much you can do about that other than what I showed.
@@HDeeRacing I tried your changes in e class front wheel drive cars the difference is amazing and I’m going to try touring cars soon thanks I sub!
Can you do street cars? Thanks in advance.
You're in luck, I already started with this: ua-cam.com/video/vgjFVojOylQ/v-deo.html
Your nick on xbox/pc is the same like on youtube ? I would like to try whith you on rival mode 😊 nice video 👍
Thank you! Yes, it's just HDeeRacing.
Does it matter where the engine is for tuning?
Indirectly, yes. I personally don't have any rules for tuning based on engine placement. But where the enginge sits does most of the time affect car behavior quite a lot.
Possible to follow your gamertag for your tunes?
Of course, it's just HDeeRacing. 👍
In multiplayer is it possible to copy others tunes? If so how?
Yes, you can get tunes other people made. Just go to the setup manager like I described in the end, but go to "Find tunes" instead.
how to reduce wheelspin off the go
Making the first great longer can help.
Can you do the KTM GT4
I will get to that car eventually in my GT Quick Look Series. 👍
Спасибо! На русском языке такой информации нет. Не думал перевести с помощью нейросети?
THX A LOT! There is no any information like that in russian. Would u like to translate video using neural network?
You're welcome. There are subtitles available, which are auto translated into a lot of languages. From my experience these work quite well. Hope that helps.
@@HDeeRacing oo nono I mean that nonenglish speakers must search on English, wich isn't ease at all) so if your video calls on English, we can't find it searching on our native language.
P.s. not making u to do neuro-translate, just clear out my thoughts
I really prefer to race modded road cars. Mostly because they are more attainable to something I mIght actually run on a track sometime, cuz let’s face it. Most of us will never drive purpose built race cars on a track. However, we are very likely to take the car in our driveways to a track.
I don't think I'll ever take my car to the track. 😅 But I get where you're coming from. It's one of the really nice things about Forza, it doesn't exlusivley focus on race cars.
@@HDeeRacing that is true, but with c-s class lobbies only having one of the classes available for a few days, and then none of the others all week with gt classes available all the time it feel like that’s what they want us doing. Plus with the new mod system, it just feels like more of a hassle to try to build the car you really want to build.
Thx
Ok I'm looking for a No-Shit answer here.
This is my first Forza and everytime I try MP income close to last.
This is a skill gap right?
Not bc my car isn't tuned correctly?
I need to learn the cars and tracks... right?
It can can be both tbh. Learning the tracks and cars helps a lot but some cars also really need to be tuned to perform.
You need a bit of luck too in each race, depending on how many times someone uses your car as a speed breaker and spins you out of the track.
Following this simple guide video will give you a good start.
Learning the tracks can be very beneficial, yes. I would pick one car you enjoy for each of the series and take that to rivals or just races without AI in single player to really get to know the car and tracks.
I'll tell u both this.....after watching the video and adjusting ,applying more or less here and there...I already have faster times. Close too 2 seconds on the 2 cars I have been working on. The Acura and the BMW in GT class!¡
I appreciate the fact that you were actually more or less accurate when it comes to Forza tuning. However, you made an important mistake when it comes to tire pressures. Anything above 2.0 BAR in race tires is a hyper inflated balloon that is making you lose time during laps (All the other points you touched on are more or less correct). Also, you didn't address suspension, geometry and damping which are essential tuning mechanics, since the stock settings are atrocious. If you wish to make another video dealing with the more advanced mechanics, I'm happy to get in touch with you on discord and help you with that.
I wanted to get more into this guide, but it already ran so long, that I had to cut down on what to include for this. But thank you for the input and the offer to help for if I ever make a part two.
Yeah, no worries. Good job anyway. This is the FIRST guide that is even remotely accurate, and can actually help people be more competitive.@@HDeeRacing
I stopped watching at gearing if only necessary. It’s always necessary if possible. First thing you should learn or you are leaving free performance on the table. You can tailet the gears for drive out of specific corners unless you run an auto box. There’s still room to do it there but it’s harder.
Gearing can be really finicky and time-consuming to get right. And you can get way more performance from some of the other settings imo. This is why I put it as "only if necessary" for this Beginners Guide.
Super, unfortunately you don't show wath you do for audi 😝
Not gonna tune the Audi, unless it is nerfed, it's too good already. 😄
Nice vidio but all cars should be desent to drive stock without tuning. tuning should only be to get the last 10 of a sekund out of a car
That would be nice, but either the developers don't want that or they can't manage to do it.
Please turn down the background race noise im trying to learn from you not hear engine, or play it at certain times but we are trying to concentrate on what your saying
Haven't heard that from anyone else before. Background audio is down 15-20 dB, so my voice should be clearly audible.
@@HDeeRacing ok don't turn it down. Me gone.
Sorry buddy after watching till 1:45 I already knew you don’t know how to tune in Forza. Your setup is not even close to what all the fast guys use.
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@@HDeeRacing it is ok 99% of the drivers in this game don’t know how to tune.
1) you put gearing “if needed” all the stock gears are slow in modern GT and Touring Cars and need to be changed.
2) you put “none” for springs?
3) none for damping?
4) none for suspension geometry?
5) all the fast guys use the same aero 95% of the time.
I wish you luck on your channel I do but at least give people the right information.
So yes no need to watch the rest cause I know it ain’t good advice.
Dude get to the damn point
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Am I the only one who reduces maximum brake pressure to prevent locking up 😂. 83% works ❤️🩹