So to explain caster. The more caster you run, the more angle your tire has at full lock. The less caster you have, the less angle you have at max lock. A higher Caster, will force the tires to center much quicker making the car feel more responsive and twitchy under transitions. The less Caster you have, the less responsive and twitchy the car will be under transitions but it will be a lot more stable. Max caster is good for tracks with a lot of hairpins and low caster is good for tracks with high speed sections and high speed sweepers, where you want a slower transition and not too much tire angle. Less tire angle equals less scrubbing which helps hold more speed at higher speeds. Just a short informative knowledge on how Caster angle works.
I never seem to see anyone tune a car below 5 degrees. Would you say it would be beneficial to tune at min caster whilst using a wheel for extra stability, particularly in those situations when you need to catch a slide?
@@EnglishOxide I have seen people use stock caster before. Actually, back in FM4, the best C9 tune that everyone wanted used 3.5 caster angle. If you run heavy toe, sometimes is best to lower caster to give more stability as toe will give a higher response and tilt the tires increasing turn in grip/stability at the cost of tire wear. Reducing caster with positive toe or negative toe, can help keep the response but reduce a bit of the tire wear you get from using toe.
@@EnglishOxide Yes you can. Look at it this way. All the top players use max caster because it gives the most tire turn radius so you can get the most turn radius into corners. Certain tracks, you don't need that extra turning radius so you can lower caster to compensate responsiveness for stability and give the car oversteer/understeer via aero/suspension adjustments. Lower caster will allow you to run a looser tune just off suspension settings. without having to worry about the snappy behavior you get from running max caster. Is very hard to tell with caster on forza though so 7.0 is 100% the go to 99% of the time.
Yes PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO ON DRIVING TIPS AND HOW TO APPROACH CORNERS ETC I BELIEVE YOU HAVE A VERY GOOD WAY OF EXPLAINING THINGS SO THAT EVERYONE CAN UNDERSTAND THEM. I for example usually like an Over Explanation of things and yet your style and delivery and amount of content was Spot On. I also believe someone who doesn't like an Over Explanation can also benefit. Anyways keep it up and thanks again!
@@christopherrose7526 thanks for the kind words man. That video definitely isn’t off the table. Life has been crazy for me so forza content has been on the back burner for a little. Currently purchasing a home and will be moving. After I’m settled I should have some more time to make something like that 🙂
Im glad im not the only one slighlty lost when it comes to bump/rebound settings. Good to know that 3-4 and 11-12 are a good base. Great information man, looking forward to seeing if i can put a bit of this info into my own tunes to find that extra time 👏👏
Best tune vid I’ve watched so far!! Really helpful doing this whilst in the gt hopper. I’ve gone from never getting a podium and always being top 5-10 to getting non stop podiums all day! And all I’ve done so far is tire pressure, gearing and alignment lmao!
ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!!!! YOU ARE A GODSEND SENT FROM THE FORZA GODS AND I SPEAK FOR THE WHOLE COMMUNITY WHEN I SAY NOT ONLY THANK YOU TO YOU BUT THANK YOU TO YOUR ENTIRE TEAM! I noticed on anti squat it was stuck at 30.2 or 30.7 however if you do your trick and take it all the way in either direction like with the Toe it will essentially zero it out thus allowing it to go to 30.0, 25.0, 30.0 Et Cetera.
To kind of go over spring stiffness a bit more, as you said, how stiff/soft you make it for your neutral is how it will ride over bumps. Stiffer if there are a lot of elevation changes and softer if it's more of a flatter circuit. The main thing you want to pay attention to is your weight distribution from there. 50% is the baseline. If you go below 50% then your front springs need to be stiffer as it means more of the weight of the car is to the rear and your front will want to go in front of your rear. Vice versa for going above 50%. Usually just doing 25-30 lbs per percent should be enough. Most cars are fairly balanced so it will be mostly neutral. Just think stiffer front = more understeer and stiffer rear = more oversteer. If your car is too stiff when cornering (it understeers too much) then you want the rear springs to be stiffer. If the car is too loose then do the opposite. Of course you shouldn't need to change your springs too much beyond the baseline as most of that will be done for the roll bars. I would HIGHLY recommend, setting up your springs before touching the roll bars. Just use whatever baseline that you like and go from there. As Grif said, it varies by the driver, their driving style, and what they want. I dislike rear oversteer in most forza titles as the games have far too much rotation baked into them anyway. However, for FM8 I find cars to be understeery so my baseline would be different. My baseline is actually closer to 20-25 for the front and 3-5 for the rear. For roll bars think of the front as your corner entry. Front roll bars affect how your car handles under different loads such as when you are braking. If you find that your car understeers a lot on corner entry, that means you need softer front sway bars. If it oversteers too much then you need to stiffen them and restrict the movement of the front more. Rear has the opposite effect as it's mostly for how your car exits corners. If you want your car to oversteer more then use stiffer sway bars for the rear. If you want understeer then soften them. Again, this is mostly driver specific so you should tune your sway to how you want the car to feel. I like high rotation when I finish trial braking and a stiffer car for accelerating out of corners hence, a soft front and soft rear sway bar setup. Some people prefer the opposite. In terms of corner entry, I tend to have better corner entry but worse corner exit for example than other drivers because that's how the car is set up. Lots of early rotation but the car needs to be pointed straight before I can accelerate out of corners. That's just my driving style in general which you'll see if you compete against higher level opponents that people have different tendencies and driving styles. I would also recommend setting up your brakes before you do your front sway bars as well since they are directly linked to one another. Essentially, you want as much rear brake bias as possible without destabilizing the car. If your car starts to turn into the corner without you using any steering inputs, your rear brake bias is too high and will completely destabilize your car. The weight distribution of the car will mostly affect how much bias you want as well. For example, in FWD cars they already oversteer a lot once you release off the brakes so you typically use a more neutral bias for these cars. RWD are in the middle. 4WD/All wheel drive cars like to understeer so typically you use a bit more than RWD but not that much. If you get these three things down you can make most cars behave the way that you want them too. Also as a side note, tyre width matters too. Not so much for GT but definitely for production vehicles. If your car is oversteering too much no matter what you do, either increase your rear tyre width to induce understeer or reduce your front tyre width and vice versa to increase oversteer. This normally is not necessary but some cars absolutely need this or they won't behave. Some cars have too much wheel spin so you have to make a sacrifice while other cars will buckle and oversteer no matter what you try to do to the tune. A good example of that would be the shelby cobra in FM7 which is a class A LB car as fast as the 99 elise on most tracks. The funny thing about the tune is that it's a speed tune, not a handling tune so players that go for handling tunes tend to fall flat on their face. The Shelby has a TON of wheel spin which is a massive pain in the rear when it comes to tuning and driving the car. If you crank up the rear tyre width you will find the cars wanting to turn under deceleration to be very wanting as the car has a tendency to understeer after braking. However, the car will behave nicely under acceleration so essentially to use this tune you have to completely change your driving style and coasting is no longer an option. You are either acceleration or braking. That's why many LB tunes instead go with slightly less than max rear tyre width and go for 5.7/5.8 handling, depending on how much over/understeer the person is willing to put up with. You may also need to make these types of changes to your aero as well. A good example of that is the racing purpose volvo in FM7 needed far less front aero than your normal car in that division because it simply has too much. If you don't reduce it then the car will constantly oversteer and not behave in the manner you expect for it to as it would be incredibly unstable so keep that in mind as well. Just some extra tips for production vehicles and if nothing else you do fixes some of the issues that the car has. Some of this does apply to GT cars though as some you can change the tyre widths for and aero applies to all cars but the meta is full aero front and raise the rear until the car is stable.
Caster is like an on the fly camber adjustment. Some cars like my E350 have an electronic steering ratio. (It's not the same but I think saying it may help). My car is able to turn at greater angles at low speed, than high speed. This means my car increases turning precision at low speed for navigating parking lots. At high speeds, it turns like a sports car. It took me a long time to get used to. It's almost like having two different steering settings. One for low speed, one for high speed.
I just started gettin back into simracing after 20 years (yes, 20y... I'm old now, I guess). I did some tuning, but it was very basic back then. It is very hard getting good sources of information to do finetuning, because a lot of explaination are just "Do this, it'll work!", which isn't very useful on the longrun. I needed to know HOW things work to get a better understanding. Well I can say I feel enlightend.😂 Thank you very much for this video. I rly enjoyed your explainations and appreciate the "dumbing down" things. I wrote a lot of stuff down from this. Again: Thank you! ❤ Greetings from Germany
Oh and damping is how much and how fast your spring compresses. Take a look at your suspension when you are driving. If you are running a stiffer set up usually you want your rebound to be a bit softer so your springs aren't maxing out and it gives them a bit more movement. Vice versa for softer springs to keep them from maxing out. I don't know how much it is for FM8, but I know in FM7 usually I would just set the bump stiffness to about 4.5-5.2 depending on the car and the spring set up and the rebound between 10.2-11, again, depending on the set up. Also lighter cars have too much movement so typically you want them to be stiffer as well. Heavy cars need more leeway so I typically set them up to be a tad be softer and go from there in FM7. Since it seems like FM8 is similar to FM7, if in doubt, set the stiffness to 4.6 and the rebound to 10.8. Will work on most cars without needing to fine tune it. Just look at your suspension tab in the telemetry and check the movement and gauge if you need more or less rebound. If you don't know which way to go, just change the setting by 0.6 in either direction and you'll know pretty quickly whether what you did helped you go over bumps and kurbs or made it worse rreeallll quick. You can go a full 1.0 if you want to be really extreme with it. Normally I don't change the stiffness by much unless it's a lighter car with loser springs though so 4.6 should be a good baseline imo. Edit: For reference, just think "my car has very stiff springs so the car needs a softer setting so that the car can move properly," vice versa for softer springs. Lightweight cars just tend to have softer springs than heavier cars by default so if you don't stiffen them a bit you're gonna have problems with kurbs. There is a bit that comes into play with your weight distribution of your car and all that, but you should already have that set up in your spring rate already and most spring rates are mostly neutral to begin with so your front and rear can be nearly identical and it should be fine.
You make me love forza motorsport again. With yours tips, now I can make my FR cars oversteer, cause I hate the understeer trend in these cars. Thx !!!!! U'r a angel
I just want to say one thing about the bump stiffness in relation to the difference between front and rear. I feel like running higher bump in the rear than the front can really help reduce porpoising. So think about the long left hander at spa (Pouhon). what can happen mid to late turn is that youre on full throttle turning in at a consistent rate and yet the car will do a bit of a bobble and lift up the front end of the car which will make it understeer wide. so you can increase the rear bump and keep the car leaning in to the turn without getting that bobble, think about it like an extra setting for dive/squat. In ACC terms: i like to think about (normal) bump and rebound in forza as fast bump/rebound and dive/squat as your slow bump/rebound.
@@Skrotobagins I appreciate your feedback on the damping settings. I know exactly what you’re talking about with the porpoising/bobbling in faster long turns. I’ll have to play around with the bump whenever this happens to me. I think bump has always been a tad bit easier for me to understand/notice than rebound overall
@@ESVGriffin the rebound side at least to me feels like a setting for how responsive the car is or how nimble it is to reacting. higher setting being less responsive and lowering it for more response. you can still control some body movement with it but its super minor and can be better adjusted elsewhere like dive/squat and roll center
Drivers should choose a philosophy or driving style. Then from that style adjust settings per track. Knowing what type of driver you are can make tuning way easier and easier to teach others how to develop a baseline. In Forza, the quick adjustment can be used if you know where you're driving. Close-ratio gear setting Circuits with many low- to mid-speed corners, set gear ratios closer together to help maintain the power band and focus on acceleration. (This is what you explained initially) Your powerband matters, but your driving style definitely matters more and the car dynamics really matter for how you exit corners. Wide-ratio gear setting For circuits with long straights, the gear ratios should be set further apart to help the car reach higher top speeds.
Hoki did a great video when the game first came out that explains bump and rebound perfectly. Worth watching that video in tandem with this one. I was tuning the 2015 Porsche 911 RSR whilst watching this video and it's the first time I've got good results using that particular car. Then I ended up going too far and ruining it 🤦♂️
Appreciate this! I made the mistake of applying real-world setup sense to this game and was a bit frustrated by how anti-intuitive the handling was after a few attempts. My first clue probably should've been the roll bars. Other things in the game list units, but the roll bar stiffness has no units, no KG/degree or Nm/radian or whatever. Overall process is not too far off from real-world, just some of the actual settings seem like they land out of the norm (e.g. Aero, camber, etc)
@@LapoftheWorld this is very true. The numbers themselves don’t make a lot of sense in a lot of the tuning tabs, but it’s just important to know what works in the game, and what changes do to your car. That is a common mistake I hear from many racing enthusiasts!
Thank you for taking the time to explain your tune. I shall keep this as a reference as you communicate very well and are easy to listen to. I'm looking forward to your driving tips as my segment score is usually 6 to 8 but if I get 10 what I've done different I don't know.
I like the way you explain things, very natural and it's help me a lot even tho I still not fully understand how to tune my car properly yet especially with the porsche 911 RSR, Having a very hard time to tune it properly 😅. But anyway, thank you very much for the video. Cheers 🙌
This isn’t meant to hate or be rude, but the whole secrecy behind “top level tunes” is wild. I understand the concept of being ripped off of your hard work… but the whole point of racing divisions is for vehicles in the same class to be as similar as possible to make it an as even playing field. So the only factor is the drivers skill and luck. ESV is an amazing clan/team, surely it wouldn’t hurt to let some secrets out, at least for off meta cars. Either way thank you for the video, I always find something new out about tuning every time I watch a tuning video (though it’s Forza and each game has its own quirks people abuse in tuning)
@@RadDEATHTRAP I totally get what you are saying. It’s more I’d rather not give out numbers that people put a lot of effort to arrive at in the end. Most top level drivers follow similar philosophies explained in this video anyways. The divisions are inherently flawed as it is. Cars like the 2017 RSR in GT2 and the NSX in GT3 are so clear of everything. Then you have the terrible cars that are almost unusable
Awesome video, best tuning guide i've come across so far! I was left with one guestion though: How can a spec car (GT2 in this case) be tuned in free play? I haven't experiemented with this all that much but if I went went to free play with the M6 for example, it wouldn't have the tune I've been using in GT2 hopper as that is only for the spec specifically. So far I've done all my tuning in the hopper practice session and would love to know how to take it to freeplay instead.
@@EDOtimer thank you! The way I did this was I went into the GT2 spec lobby (when it was still in rotation), got in my M6, went to the tuning menu and reset the car to stock tuning settings. I drove around in practice for a little and quit afterwards just to make sure it saved that way. Then I went to free play and in my M6, I went to setup manager and loaded the tune called “autosave SpecSeriesTune.” This should have the correct build spec for GT2 and the last settings that were used on your car in that lobby
TOP video thank you! I followed along and love the tune, the M6 is now a very drive-able car for me. A video on driving tips would be class and just what I need. someone else here said about the segment scores, I have same issue, I feel like I'm doing well, going flat out but get 5-6 seg score, it's not like I don't get 8-9s n 10s on same track in same car. I've looked for videos on this here on YT, found none. Also trail braking on a controller but doubt you use one. I'm very grateful to you as a top driver for helping me right out.....THANKS! All the best and thanks to Erratic GT & Grimm Legion Gaming, I see you in their live feed Satuday I think.
A base 40/40 ARBs and tune the car to that is wiiild to me, I'm a base 40/1 man myself. Well articulated tuning philosophy tho, thanks for the video and perspective.
What I've collected from this vid. Tires: Base 28 PSI/ Raise front for more understeer/ Raise rear for more oversteer/ Keep the gap within .5 - 1.0 PSI/ - Gears: 6.10 FD to minimize rev bug. Optional/ Faster shift times rumored/ - 1st Gear. Launch gear? or Hairpin gear? Launch gear, aim for 60mph. 2nd gear. Around 85 mph. Aim for ~180 mph for final gear/ Use the HP telemetry data to identify the powerband/ - Camber: Base F 1.5 R 1.0 Increase both for mid-corner oversteer/ Unstable long corner exit... decrease rear camber/ Front has too much grip relative to rear... decrease front camber/ - Toe Usually leave alone Add .1 front toe for sharper or twitchy turn in/ Add .1 rear toe for mid to late corner rotation Ex. Grand Oak, Mugello. Helps the car point but scrubs/ Add -.1 rear toe for a more planted throttle/ Add -.1 front toe for less twitchy turn in/ Caster: Just run with 7/ - Roll Bars: Make or breaks how your car feels especially on corner exit/ Base 40/40 (keeps car planted on corner exit) or 40/30 or 40/1 or 38/15/ Higher front, more understeer/ Higher rear, more oversteer/ Car dependent/ Higher or lower roll bars together, affect overall softness/stiffness/ Lower, more sway/ Higher, less sway/ - Springs: Stiffer springs, more responsive overall, quicker turn in, more unstable, struggle over curbs/ Stiffer springs are better for higher compressions. Base - medium to soft spring rates. Around 450 to 600 lbs/in. GT, run slightly higher front spring/ Higher front, more turn in stability, easier to settle in corners. Factors of each car can decide otherwise/ If car is naturally understeery, stiffen rear springs/ Move in increments of 25/ Notes: Higher tire pressure helps with tire wear. Use 6th gear to fix data accuracy. Reset toe values. Running with a higher caster can affect camber values. Roll Bars felt in late mid corner to corner exit. Springs felt more in corner entry to early mid corner. - Ride height: Usually keep it minimized/ Raising front ride height can stabilize your car on corner entry/ If you want to avoid using negative toe (because it increases tire wear) then increase front ride height/ Affects mid corner speeds/ Helps with sweepers/ Raising rear ride height isn't ideal. Raise for more oversteer/ - Damping: Affects cars performance over curbs, affects behavior on turn-in and exit/ Base - 3.5 Bump, 11.3 Rebound/ Stiffer rear, more oversteer/ Stiffer front, more understeer/ Low bump, high rebound usually works/ - Roll Center Height Offset(secondary roll bars being used as the term): Low, more body roll, high range of motion/ High, less body roll, low range of motion/ Base 9.8(Max) overall Stiffer front, more understeer/ Stiffer rear, more oversteer/ - Anti-dive: Braking and corner entry/ Higher anti-dive, resisting downward front movement, more stability under Braking/ If light on corner entry, raise it (keeps more weight on rear tires because the front isn't dipping as much)/ Negative anti-dive, dips rapidly towards front, takes weight off rears, unstable braking on corner entry. Start with positive 25 - 50 base/ Anti-squat: Affects how quickly weight is shifted to the rear Lower, less resistance to shifting weight, more stability on throttle, low speed while turning, more weight on rear, takes weight off front tires, induces understeer, stability on corner exit. Base -50/ For more rotation or less understeer on throttle, raise it. Usually keep it negative. Can be positive. - Aero: More force pushing down on front/rear end of the car/ Max front, min rear/ Min, Min for Le Mans/ Best for straightline speed and handling/ - Braking) Balance: Base 47% (for front engine types) If unstable on braking, more front bias/ If understeery on brakes and you want more rotation, more rear bias/ Force: Base 140%-150% Raising makes brakes more sensitive on input/ Mostly preference (I'd prefer higher pressure)/ - Diff: For rear wheel drive types: Base 40%-60% Accel affects cars on-throttle/ Higher accel, more on-throttle oversteer/ Lower accel, more on-throttle understeer which probably isn't optimal/ Decel: For front engine types, lower decel, more oversteer base 0%-10%/ For mid engine or rear engine types, raise decel, more stability/ Lot to learn here. Is this correct?
Adjust your tire pressure based on where the optimal temp will fall. Chart below is for real GT3 race cars. Vehicle weight & Target (psi) Very light (< 800 kg) 22-29 Light (800-1000 kg) 24-32 Heavy (1000-1400 kg) 28-40 Very heavy (> 1400 kg) 37-40
Nice video dude!! I'm not much of a tuner myself, it's never really been my thing tbh lol i just race and try and get the best time i can too just using whatever tunes I can get a hold of from a trustworthy player ofc lol🤷♂️ i know the bare basics but yeahh nice to know theres a video like this is i ever change my mind👍🙏
The final drive tune is fuckin hilarious, I did a completion of FM4 over the past year and in that game higher accel was always better for consistency aside from top speed sacrifice
One of these on different types of cars would be class. Like A Class cars etc. AWD cars. Something so we can make more competitive cars to go against the leaderboard cars 👍
That's because you take more vacations than I take shots at the bar!! Missed ya bro!! Saw you in the Discord. Now I just need to chase ya around the track but you know it won't be in GT 🤣
Finished to watch it. It's always great to have tune settings tutorial in any racing game!. Just a question, is it close to FH5 tuning settings or not really?
Appreciate the info. Understand why you don’t want to share others tunes. Can you recommend other people from ESV that do share their tunes for various pi classes? Thanks.
So funny reading people throwing around buzzwords & praising a video where each setting is described as "this feels good" or "my friend runs this" 😂 Even the basics are explained as if they were made out of "magic". Pressures regulate tire temperatures (+ deflection & contact patch in reality, not in-game) Gear ratios were fine, but if the game would simulate energy transfer losses, you would gain a few HP going as close as possible to 1:1 on the 4th or 5th gear. I love youtube & hate these half-baked videos at the same time.
@@busybeingborn6901 cold in the center you will probably want higher pressure. Higher tire pressure will raise the sides of the tires off the road more and focus more contact patch in the middle. Deflating the tire will make the sidewalls sag a little more, focusing contact on the edges and away from the middle. Another possible explanation is in the camber settings. If you have too little or too much camber, the load on the tire mid-corner may not be centered properly. But id say pressures are the more likely explanation
Hi, you say your gearbox is decent if so why does Raceboy77 always n i mean always change it and he WORKS FOR TURN10 🤷♂️also tyre pressures are waaaay tooo high in reality so why in this game are they viable real world GT cars run as little pressure as poss as this reduces wear and improves grip so either your backwards or game is
@@JubbatheHatt the gearbox I came up with here was supposed to be something that could work pretty well at most tracks with minimal adjustment. I’ve used this tune in lobbies since releasing this video and haven’t had to make many gearing adjustments at all. Every once in a while I will move some gears up or down slightly for track specific tuning but it’s minimal if anything For tire pressures, I wouldn’t rely too much on real life data. It’s forza after all. A lot of the numbers in the tune wouldn’t make much sense in real life. There are certain cars that I run much lower PSI in, like the Can Am cars in open R class. For GT, the range I gave in the video seems to work best for me Also, Raceboy and I are friends. You are welcome to follow his tuning advice if you prefer it to mine
@ massive thanks for replying bro kudos to you 👍 i did wonder about tuning cause arbs are silly 🤪 so basically what yoursaying is its not track specific tuning for cars its coding specific tuning ie there is a meta setting? I know brake bias forward on proper race cars sucks a bit when it shouldn’t. Its certainly good to know il watch and experiment to see if i can gain, well even half a second would be nice cheers ESVGriffin
So to explain caster. The more caster you run, the more angle your tire has at full lock. The less caster you have, the less angle you have at max lock. A higher Caster, will force the tires to center much quicker making the car feel more responsive and twitchy under transitions. The less Caster you have, the less responsive and twitchy the car will be under transitions but it will be a lot more stable. Max caster is good for tracks with a lot of hairpins and low caster is good for tracks with high speed sections and high speed sweepers, where you want a slower transition and not too much tire angle. Less tire angle equals less scrubbing which helps hold more speed at higher speeds. Just a short informative knowledge on how Caster angle works.
This is very helpful, thank you very much! ❤
I never seem to see anyone tune a car below 5 degrees. Would you say it would be beneficial to tune at min caster whilst using a wheel for extra stability, particularly in those situations when you need to catch a slide?
@@EnglishOxide I have seen people use stock caster before. Actually, back in FM4, the best C9 tune that everyone wanted used 3.5 caster angle. If you run heavy toe, sometimes is best to lower caster to give more stability as toe will give a higher response and tilt the tires increasing turn in grip/stability at the cost of tire wear. Reducing caster with positive toe or negative toe, can help keep the response but reduce a bit of the tire wear you get from using toe.
@@EnglishOxide Yes you can. Look at it this way. All the top players use max caster because it gives the most tire turn radius so you can get the most turn radius into corners. Certain tracks, you don't need that extra turning radius so you can lower caster to compensate responsiveness for stability and give the car oversteer/understeer via aero/suspension adjustments. Lower caster will allow you to run a looser tune just off suspension settings. without having to worry about the snappy behavior you get from running max caster. Is very hard to tell with caster on forza though so 7.0 is 100% the go to 99% of the time.
Can you explain rebound as well?
Yes PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO ON DRIVING TIPS AND HOW TO APPROACH CORNERS ETC I BELIEVE YOU HAVE A VERY GOOD WAY OF EXPLAINING THINGS SO THAT EVERYONE CAN UNDERSTAND THEM. I for example usually like an Over Explanation of things and yet your style and delivery and amount of content was Spot On. I also believe someone who doesn't like an Over Explanation can also benefit. Anyways keep it up and thanks again!
@@christopherrose7526 thanks for the kind words man. That video definitely isn’t off the table. Life has been crazy for me so forza content has been on the back burner for a little. Currently purchasing a home and will be moving. After I’m settled I should have some more time to make something like that 🙂
Im glad im not the only one slighlty lost when it comes to bump/rebound settings. Good to know that 3-4 and 11-12 are a good base. Great information man, looking forward to seeing if i can put a bit of this info into my own tunes to find that extra time 👏👏
@@GrimmLegionGaming thanks for taking the time to watch, I appreciate it
can i just say thanks for all the tunes i got from you and other ESV guys, they never let down
Best tune vid I’ve watched so far!! Really helpful doing this whilst in the gt hopper. I’ve gone from never getting a podium and always being top 5-10 to getting non stop podiums all day! And all I’ve done so far is tire pressure, gearing and alignment lmao!
Would love a driving tips vid
Press the RT harder. Thank me later
Stay off grass.
Stay inside the asphalted part
Finally a proper up to date vid to recommend to people
Great one mate
The other idea you mentioned at the end seems great too
This is like the only tuning guide that i can agree with so far. Great stuff.
ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!!!! YOU ARE A GODSEND SENT FROM THE FORZA GODS AND I SPEAK FOR THE WHOLE COMMUNITY WHEN I SAY NOT ONLY THANK YOU TO YOU BUT THANK YOU TO YOUR ENTIRE TEAM! I noticed on anti squat it was stuck at 30.2 or 30.7 however if you do your trick and take it all the way in either direction like with the Toe it will essentially zero it out thus allowing it to go to 30.0, 25.0, 30.0 Et Cetera.
To kind of go over spring stiffness a bit more, as you said, how stiff/soft you make it for your neutral is how it will ride over bumps. Stiffer if there are a lot of elevation changes and softer if it's more of a flatter circuit. The main thing you want to pay attention to is your weight distribution from there. 50% is the baseline. If you go below 50% then your front springs need to be stiffer as it means more of the weight of the car is to the rear and your front will want to go in front of your rear. Vice versa for going above 50%. Usually just doing 25-30 lbs per percent should be enough. Most cars are fairly balanced so it will be mostly neutral. Just think stiffer front = more understeer and stiffer rear = more oversteer. If your car is too stiff when cornering (it understeers too much) then you want the rear springs to be stiffer. If the car is too loose then do the opposite. Of course you shouldn't need to change your springs too much beyond the baseline as most of that will be done for the roll bars.
I would HIGHLY recommend, setting up your springs before touching the roll bars. Just use whatever baseline that you like and go from there. As Grif said, it varies by the driver, their driving style, and what they want. I dislike rear oversteer in most forza titles as the games have far too much rotation baked into them anyway. However, for FM8 I find cars to be understeery so my baseline would be different. My baseline is actually closer to 20-25 for the front and 3-5 for the rear. For roll bars think of the front as your corner entry. Front roll bars affect how your car handles under different loads such as when you are braking. If you find that your car understeers a lot on corner entry, that means you need softer front sway bars. If it oversteers too much then you need to stiffen them and restrict the movement of the front more. Rear has the opposite effect as it's mostly for how your car exits corners. If you want your car to oversteer more then use stiffer sway bars for the rear. If you want understeer then soften them. Again, this is mostly driver specific so you should tune your sway to how you want the car to feel. I like high rotation when I finish trial braking and a stiffer car for accelerating out of corners hence, a soft front and soft rear sway bar setup. Some people prefer the opposite. In terms of corner entry, I tend to have better corner entry but worse corner exit for example than other drivers because that's how the car is set up. Lots of early rotation but the car needs to be pointed straight before I can accelerate out of corners. That's just my driving style in general which you'll see if you compete against higher level opponents that people have different tendencies and driving styles.
I would also recommend setting up your brakes before you do your front sway bars as well since they are directly linked to one another. Essentially, you want as much rear brake bias as possible without destabilizing the car. If your car starts to turn into the corner without you using any steering inputs, your rear brake bias is too high and will completely destabilize your car. The weight distribution of the car will mostly affect how much bias you want as well. For example, in FWD cars they already oversteer a lot once you release off the brakes so you typically use a more neutral bias for these cars. RWD are in the middle. 4WD/All wheel drive cars like to understeer so typically you use a bit more than RWD but not that much.
If you get these three things down you can make most cars behave the way that you want them too. Also as a side note, tyre width matters too. Not so much for GT but definitely for production vehicles. If your car is oversteering too much no matter what you do, either increase your rear tyre width to induce understeer or reduce your front tyre width and vice versa to increase oversteer. This normally is not necessary but some cars absolutely need this or they won't behave. Some cars have too much wheel spin so you have to make a sacrifice while other cars will buckle and oversteer no matter what you try to do to the tune. A good example of that would be the shelby cobra in FM7 which is a class A LB car as fast as the 99 elise on most tracks. The funny thing about the tune is that it's a speed tune, not a handling tune so players that go for handling tunes tend to fall flat on their face. The Shelby has a TON of wheel spin which is a massive pain in the rear when it comes to tuning and driving the car. If you crank up the rear tyre width you will find the cars wanting to turn under deceleration to be very wanting as the car has a tendency to understeer after braking. However, the car will behave nicely under acceleration so essentially to use this tune you have to completely change your driving style and coasting is no longer an option. You are either acceleration or braking. That's why many LB tunes instead go with slightly less than max rear tyre width and go for 5.7/5.8 handling, depending on how much over/understeer the person is willing to put up with. You may also need to make these types of changes to your aero as well. A good example of that is the racing purpose volvo in FM7 needed far less front aero than your normal car in that division because it simply has too much. If you don't reduce it then the car will constantly oversteer and not behave in the manner you expect for it to as it would be incredibly unstable so keep that in mind as well. Just some extra tips for production vehicles and if nothing else you do fixes some of the issues that the car has. Some of this does apply to GT cars though as some you can change the tyre widths for and aero applies to all cars but the meta is full aero front and raise the rear until the car is stable.
This is a phenomenal video. I really appreciate you breaking it down in a way that I can understand it. Thanks.
Caster is like an on the fly camber adjustment. Some cars like my E350 have an electronic steering ratio. (It's not the same but I think saying it may help).
My car is able to turn at greater angles at low speed, than high speed. This means my car increases turning precision at low speed for navigating parking lots.
At high speeds, it turns like a sports car.
It took me a long time to get used to. It's almost like having two different steering settings. One for low speed, one for high speed.
I just started gettin back into simracing after 20 years (yes, 20y... I'm old now, I guess). I did some tuning, but it was very basic back then. It is very hard getting good sources of information to do finetuning, because a lot of explaination are just "Do this, it'll work!", which isn't very useful on the longrun. I needed to know HOW things work to get a better understanding. Well I can say I feel enlightend.😂
Thank you very much for this video. I rly enjoyed your explainations and appreciate the "dumbing down" things. I wrote a lot of stuff down from this. Again: Thank you! ❤
Greetings from Germany
He's ALIVE!
Here from z Erratic z and GLG Grimm's community!! Thanks for the video. Always nice to have others insights to better tuning.
@@O.G.Racing thanks for coming over the my channel and giving it a watch!
Oh and damping is how much and how fast your spring compresses. Take a look at your suspension when you are driving. If you are running a stiffer set up usually you want your rebound to be a bit softer so your springs aren't maxing out and it gives them a bit more movement. Vice versa for softer springs to keep them from maxing out. I don't know how much it is for FM8, but I know in FM7 usually I would just set the bump stiffness to about 4.5-5.2 depending on the car and the spring set up and the rebound between 10.2-11, again, depending on the set up. Also lighter cars have too much movement so typically you want them to be stiffer as well. Heavy cars need more leeway so I typically set them up to be a tad be softer and go from there in FM7. Since it seems like FM8 is similar to FM7, if in doubt, set the stiffness to 4.6 and the rebound to 10.8. Will work on most cars without needing to fine tune it. Just look at your suspension tab in the telemetry and check the movement and gauge if you need more or less rebound. If you don't know which way to go, just change the setting by 0.6 in either direction and you'll know pretty quickly whether what you did helped you go over bumps and kurbs or made it worse rreeallll quick. You can go a full 1.0 if you want to be really extreme with it. Normally I don't change the stiffness by much unless it's a lighter car with loser springs though so 4.6 should be a good baseline imo.
Edit: For reference, just think "my car has very stiff springs so the car needs a softer setting so that the car can move properly," vice versa for softer springs. Lightweight cars just tend to have softer springs than heavier cars by default so if you don't stiffen them a bit you're gonna have problems with kurbs. There is a bit that comes into play with your weight distribution of your car and all that, but you should already have that set up in your spring rate already and most spring rates are mostly neutral to begin with so your front and rear can be nearly identical and it should be fine.
You make me love forza motorsport again. With yours tips, now I can make my FR cars oversteer, cause I hate the understeer trend in these cars. Thx !!!!! U'r a angel
Very useful. Looking forward to the next video
Such a good video dude. This the best one i seen thus far
When doing these setup videos, overlay the telemetry to display tires. Tire heat, tire pressure, etc.
I just want to say one thing about the bump stiffness in relation to the difference between front and rear. I feel like running higher bump in the rear than the front can really help reduce porpoising. So think about the long left hander at spa (Pouhon). what can happen mid to late turn is that youre on full throttle turning in at a consistent rate and yet the car will do a bit of a bobble and lift up the front end of the car which will make it understeer wide. so you can increase the rear bump and keep the car leaning in to the turn without getting that bobble, think about it like an extra setting for dive/squat. In ACC terms: i like to think about (normal) bump and rebound in forza as fast bump/rebound and dive/squat as your slow bump/rebound.
@@Skrotobagins I appreciate your feedback on the damping settings. I know exactly what you’re talking about with the porpoising/bobbling in faster long turns. I’ll have to play around with the bump whenever this happens to me. I think bump has always been a tad bit easier for me to understand/notice than rebound overall
@@ESVGriffin the rebound side at least to me feels like a setting for how responsive the car is or how nimble it is to reacting. higher setting being less responsive and lowering it for more response. you can still control some body movement with it but its super minor and can be better adjusted elsewhere like dive/squat and roll center
Yo is this FujiwaraTofu?
Heck yeah dude! 😎
Thanks for the insight
I will playing around the tune that fit for me
excellent video. I'm glad I'm not the only person who is a bit in the dark about bump and rebound 😂
Really good info on the most confusing ass part of this game. Good Job❤🔥
Drivers should choose a philosophy or driving style.
Then from that style adjust settings per track. Knowing what type of driver you are can make tuning way easier and easier to teach others how to develop a baseline.
In Forza, the quick adjustment can be used if you know where you're driving.
Close-ratio gear setting
Circuits with many low- to mid-speed corners, set gear ratios closer together to help maintain the power band and focus on acceleration.
(This is what you explained initially)
Your powerband matters, but your driving style definitely matters more and the car dynamics really matter for how you exit corners.
Wide-ratio gear setting
For circuits with long straights, the gear ratios should be set further apart to help the car reach higher top speeds.
Hoki did a great video when the game first came out that explains bump and rebound perfectly. Worth watching that video in tandem with this one.
I was tuning the 2015 Porsche 911 RSR whilst watching this video and it's the first time I've got good results using that particular car.
Then I ended up going too far and ruining it 🤦♂️
Appreciate this! I made the mistake of applying real-world setup sense to this game and was a bit frustrated by how anti-intuitive the handling was after a few attempts. My first clue probably should've been the roll bars. Other things in the game list units, but the roll bar stiffness has no units, no KG/degree or Nm/radian or whatever. Overall process is not too far off from real-world, just some of the actual settings seem like they land out of the norm (e.g. Aero, camber, etc)
@@LapoftheWorld this is very true. The numbers themselves don’t make a lot of sense in a lot of the tuning tabs, but it’s just important to know what works in the game, and what changes do to your car. That is a common mistake I hear from many racing enthusiasts!
Thank you for taking the time to explain your tune. I shall keep this as a reference as you communicate very well and are easy to listen to. I'm looking forward to your driving tips as my segment score is usually 6 to 8 but if I get 10 what I've done different I don't know.
Thanks for all of the digestible information. I would be super interested in a video on trail braking. I can't seem to figure it out 🫤
@@jhawklaw trail braking is tough man! It’s so important in this game though, forza really rewards you for it
I’ve been looking for a vid like this for a few weeks. Ty. Simple and effective descriptions are really helpful
I like the way you explain things, very natural and it's help me a lot even tho I still not fully understand how to tune my car properly yet especially with the porsche 911 RSR, Having a very hard time to tune it properly 😅. But anyway, thank you very much for the video. Cheers 🙌
Doing God’s work man, I just started tuning a few days ago and have already learned a lot. 👊🏾
Forza 7 Final Lap Battle at Spa is my favorite video!!!
This isn’t meant to hate or be rude, but the whole secrecy behind “top level tunes” is wild.
I understand the concept of being ripped off of your hard work… but the whole point of racing divisions is for vehicles in the same class to be as similar as possible to make it an as even playing field. So the only factor is the drivers skill and luck. ESV is an amazing clan/team, surely it wouldn’t hurt to let some secrets out, at least for off meta cars.
Either way thank you for the video, I always find something new out about tuning every time I watch a tuning video (though it’s Forza and each game has its own quirks people abuse in tuning)
@@RadDEATHTRAP I totally get what you are saying. It’s more I’d rather not give out numbers that people put a lot of effort to arrive at in the end. Most top level drivers follow similar philosophies explained in this video anyways.
The divisions are inherently flawed as it is. Cars like the 2017 RSR in GT2 and the NSX in GT3 are so clear of everything. Then you have the terrible cars that are almost unusable
Thanks for the info I’m a mediocre tuner who wants to get better
Awesome video, best tuning guide i've come across so far!
I was left with one guestion though: How can a spec car (GT2 in this case) be tuned in free play? I haven't experiemented with this all that much but if I went went to free play with the M6 for example, it wouldn't have the tune I've been using in GT2 hopper as that is only for the spec specifically. So far I've done all my tuning in the hopper practice session and would love to know how to take it to freeplay instead.
@@EDOtimer thank you!
The way I did this was I went into the GT2 spec lobby (when it was still in rotation), got in my M6, went to the tuning menu and reset the car to stock tuning settings. I drove around in practice for a little and quit afterwards just to make sure it saved that way. Then I went to free play and in my M6, I went to setup manager and loaded the tune called “autosave SpecSeriesTune.” This should have the correct build spec for GT2 and the last settings that were used on your car in that lobby
TOP video thank you! I followed along and love the tune, the M6 is now a very drive-able car for me. A video on driving tips would be class and just what I need. someone else here said about the segment scores, I have same issue, I feel like I'm doing well, going flat out but get 5-6 seg score, it's not like I don't get 8-9s n 10s on same track in same car. I've looked for videos on this here on YT, found none. Also trail braking on a controller but doubt you use one. I'm very grateful to you as a top driver for helping me right out.....THANKS! All the best and thanks to Erratic GT & Grimm Legion Gaming, I see you in their live feed Satuday I think.
A base 40/40 ARBs and tune the car to that is wiiild to me, I'm a base 40/1 man myself. Well articulated tuning philosophy tho, thanks for the video and perspective.
What I've collected from this vid.
Tires:
Base 28 PSI/
Raise front for more understeer/
Raise rear for more oversteer/
Keep the gap within .5 - 1.0 PSI/
-
Gears:
6.10 FD to minimize rev bug. Optional/
Faster shift times rumored/
-
1st Gear. Launch gear? or Hairpin gear? Launch gear, aim for 60mph.
2nd gear. Around 85 mph.
Aim for ~180 mph for final gear/
Use the HP telemetry data to identify the powerband/
-
Camber:
Base F 1.5 R 1.0
Increase both for mid-corner oversteer/
Unstable long corner exit... decrease rear camber/
Front has too much grip relative to rear... decrease front camber/
-
Toe
Usually leave alone
Add .1 front toe for sharper or twitchy turn in/
Add .1 rear toe for mid to late corner rotation Ex. Grand Oak, Mugello. Helps the car point but scrubs/
Add -.1 rear toe for a more planted throttle/
Add -.1 front toe for less twitchy turn in/
Caster:
Just run with 7/
-
Roll Bars:
Make or breaks how your car feels especially on corner exit/
Base 40/40 (keeps car planted on corner exit) or 40/30 or 40/1 or 38/15/
Higher front, more understeer/
Higher rear, more oversteer/
Car dependent/
Higher or lower roll bars together, affect overall softness/stiffness/
Lower, more sway/
Higher, less sway/
-
Springs:
Stiffer springs, more responsive overall, quicker turn in, more unstable, struggle over curbs/
Stiffer springs are better for higher compressions.
Base - medium to soft spring rates. Around 450 to 600 lbs/in. GT, run slightly higher front spring/
Higher front, more turn in stability, easier to settle in corners. Factors of each car can decide otherwise/
If car is naturally understeery, stiffen rear springs/
Move in increments of 25/
Notes:
Higher tire pressure helps with tire wear.
Use 6th gear to fix data accuracy.
Reset toe values.
Running with a higher caster can affect camber values.
Roll Bars felt in late mid corner to corner exit. Springs felt more in corner entry to early mid corner.
-
Ride height:
Usually keep it minimized/
Raising front ride height can stabilize your car on corner entry/
If you want to avoid using negative toe (because it increases tire wear) then increase front ride height/ Affects mid corner speeds/ Helps with sweepers/
Raising rear ride height isn't ideal. Raise for more oversteer/
-
Damping:
Affects cars performance over curbs, affects behavior on turn-in and exit/
Base - 3.5 Bump, 11.3 Rebound/
Stiffer rear, more oversteer/
Stiffer front, more understeer/
Low bump, high rebound usually works/
-
Roll Center Height Offset(secondary roll bars being used as the term):
Low, more body roll, high range of motion/
High, less body roll, low range of motion/
Base 9.8(Max) overall
Stiffer front, more understeer/
Stiffer rear, more oversteer/
-
Anti-dive:
Braking and corner entry/
Higher anti-dive, resisting downward front movement, more stability under Braking/
If light on corner entry, raise it (keeps more weight on rear tires because the front isn't dipping as much)/
Negative anti-dive, dips rapidly towards front, takes weight off rears, unstable braking on corner entry. Start with positive 25 - 50 base/
Anti-squat:
Affects how quickly weight is shifted to the rear
Lower, less resistance to shifting weight, more stability on throttle, low speed while turning, more weight on rear, takes weight off front tires, induces understeer, stability on corner exit. Base -50/
For more rotation or less understeer on throttle, raise it. Usually keep it negative. Can be positive.
-
Aero:
More force pushing down on front/rear end of the car/
Max front, min rear/
Min, Min for Le Mans/
Best for straightline speed and handling/
-
Braking)
Balance:
Base 47% (for front engine types)
If unstable on braking, more front bias/
If understeery on brakes and you want more rotation, more rear bias/
Force:
Base 140%-150%
Raising makes brakes more sensitive on input/
Mostly preference (I'd prefer higher pressure)/
-
Diff:
For rear wheel drive types:
Base 40%-60%
Accel affects cars on-throttle/
Higher accel, more on-throttle oversteer/
Lower accel, more on-throttle understeer which probably isn't optimal/
Decel:
For front engine types, lower decel, more oversteer base 0%-10%/
For mid engine or rear engine types, raise decel, more stability/
Lot to learn here.
Is this correct?
Dont forget fuel load does effect springs
Adjust your tire pressure based on where the optimal temp will fall. Chart below is for real GT3 race cars.
Vehicle weight & Target (psi)
Very light (< 800 kg)
22-29
Light (800-1000 kg)
24-32
Heavy (1000-1400 kg)
28-40
Very heavy (> 1400 kg)
37-40
Nice video dude!! I'm not much of a tuner myself, it's never really been my thing tbh lol i just race and try and get the best time i can too just using whatever tunes I can get a hold of from a trustworthy player ofc lol🤷♂️ i know the bare basics but yeahh nice to know theres a video like this is i ever change my mind👍🙏
Heel yea thanks! More vids for other classes
The final drive tune is fuckin hilarious, I did a completion of FM4 over the past year and in that game higher accel was always better for consistency aside from top speed sacrifice
thank you! ive been looking for something like this
Hello, Raceboy sent me. Good video, appreciate the tips.
Detailed and useful. Great.
One of these on different types of cars would be class. Like A Class cars etc. AWD cars. Something so we can make more competitive cars to go against the leaderboard cars 👍
That's because you take more vacations than I take shots at the bar!! Missed ya bro!! Saw you in the Discord. Now I just need to chase ya around the track but you know it won't be in GT 🤣
@@DocAtrox One day, you will come to the dark side in GT! 😂
He's cooking 🔥
As per usual....🤟😎
Thank you for making this, pretty useful! Hopefully I will begin to learn to tune cars myself xD
Great info. Hope to see more.
Great vid! Also consider overtaking and defending in your next driving tips vids?
Hey, it's the Griffster!
Finished to watch it. It's always great to have tune settings tutorial in any racing game!.
Just a question, is it close to FH5 tuning settings or not really?
I actually need to watch this whole thing. I don’t trust my tunes and usually just end up downloading a “pro tune” from a respectable player
Appreciate the info. Understand why you don’t want to share others tunes. Can you recommend other people from ESV that do share their tunes for various pi classes? Thanks.
Legend
@@Raceboy77 YOU are the legend! Thank you for sharing my video to your community!
@@ESVGriffin No, thank you for making this! Now I don't have to :D.
@@Raceboy77 LOL, fair point
Legend. Appreciate the video.
Whateva
Quality video my dude
damn thanks alot for this 🙏
u NEED to do that driving tips vid
Corner guide please brah😇
Very helpful. :-)
So funny reading people throwing around buzzwords & praising a video where each setting is described as "this feels good" or "my friend runs this" 😂
Even the basics are explained as if they were made out of "magic".
Pressures regulate tire temperatures (+ deflection & contact patch in reality, not in-game)
Gear ratios were fine, but if the game would simulate energy transfer losses, you would gain a few HP going as close as possible to 1:1 on the 4th or 5th gear.
I love youtube & hate these half-baked videos at the same time.
@@DriftJunkie keep hating and stay slow, thanks for the view!
You are lying to people. Sharing misinformation, because your only proof something works is "my girlfriend from other school does this".
I followed this guide and ESV suddenly appeared in my gamertag
@@Harmonic14 😂
Salute for the race at Yas the other day 🫡✌🏻
@@Harmonic14 is this foreshadowing ☝🏻🤓
😂🧡
If the tyres are showing cold in the centre during a lap, how do I correct that? Lower pressure?
@@busybeingborn6901 cold in the center you will probably want higher pressure. Higher tire pressure will raise the sides of the tires off the road more and focus more contact patch in the middle. Deflating the tire will make the sidewalls sag a little more, focusing contact on the edges and away from the middle.
Another possible explanation is in the camber settings. If you have too little or too much camber, the load on the tire mid-corner may not be centered properly. But id say pressures are the more likely explanation
@@ESVGriffin thank you, makes sense. Will try that
I really enjoyed the part where he mentioned how stuff he likes things.
How did you put the BMW Motorsport on top of the front window? I can´t find where to do this.
Where did you mention the spa tuning tips ? I can’t find it
When did griff get a youtube channel
@@Craviator griff’s had one for a while lol. It dies and comes back every so often
this video tickle my pickle
1:06:50 true
Subbed
You ever play on wheel?
Thanks g
I don't get it.
When I do min rear max front dowwnforce my car immediately spins with any turning input.
what it means ESV?
1:07:45 that would be very helpful interested
ya can skip it but ya have to go past the start line first
How to get good at CS2 guide when
@@Yokohamaboolin I’m leaving that one to you. “How to go 3-17”
@@ESVGriffinthat’s not how to get good at cs2 😢
Awesome vid that was superhelpful @ESV Griffin - would love another GT Car example
As per usual....
what ya mean left xd im new :D
Forza tuning calculator
Reported.
IR Sterile
chase cam Eww🤢
Esplodi
Hi, you say your gearbox is decent if so why does Raceboy77 always n i mean always change it and he WORKS FOR TURN10 🤷♂️also tyre pressures are waaaay tooo high in reality so why in this game are they viable real world GT cars run as little pressure as poss as this reduces wear and improves grip so either your backwards or game is
@@JubbatheHatt the gearbox I came up with here was supposed to be something that could work pretty well at most tracks with minimal adjustment. I’ve used this tune in lobbies since releasing this video and haven’t had to make many gearing adjustments at all. Every once in a while I will move some gears up or down slightly for track specific tuning but it’s minimal if anything
For tire pressures, I wouldn’t rely too much on real life data. It’s forza after all. A lot of the numbers in the tune wouldn’t make much sense in real life. There are certain cars that I run much lower PSI in, like the Can Am cars in open R class. For GT, the range I gave in the video seems to work best for me
Also, Raceboy and I are friends. You are welcome to follow his tuning advice if you prefer it to mine
@ massive thanks for replying bro kudos to you 👍 i did wonder about tuning cause arbs are silly 🤪 so basically what yoursaying is its not track specific tuning for cars its coding specific tuning ie there is a meta setting? I know brake bias forward on proper race cars sucks a bit when it shouldn’t. Its certainly good to know il watch and experiment to see if i can gain, well even half a second would be nice cheers ESVGriffin
Thank you professor. 🫡