2x4 vs 2x6 Framing
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- Опубліковано 26 бер 2023
- In this video, we explore the differences between 2x4 and 2x6 framing in construction. We start by explaining what these terms mean and how they relate to the size of lumber used in framing walls. We then compare the benefits and drawbacks of each option, including factors such as cost, insulation, and load-bearing capacity.
Additionally, we discuss the impact that the choice between 2x4 and 2x6 framing can have on energy efficiency and sustainability, as well as the potential implications for building codes and regulations.
Whether you're a professional contractor, a DIY enthusiast, or simply curious about the nuances of construction, this video offers valuable insights into the considerations involved in choosing between 2x4 and 2x6 framing. So tune in and join the conversation!
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Actually your audio is good . Very clear no issues.
I agree with all they you are saying. Personally I use ZIP-R 1 1/2” or 2” to prevent the thermal bridging on my builds. Super energy efficient. Love your channel. Keep it up
Thanks for the video. Great information. Can you do a video on how you built the wall, showing also how you attached the sheathing, exterior insulation etc.
Dude you sound exactly like my buddy it’s freaking me out. Thanks for the content good stuff!
Sounds like your build is excellent with 2 x 4. Good choice to use Rockwool and exterior insulation.. Well done!
Jon, what do think or feel about helical piles for piers? Im sure its more of a expensive approach.
I'm building my 50×30 ranch style gable roof home. Thinking of doing all 2x4 studs to save $$. My problem is saving for all the joists, top and bottom and rafters. Which if I go with 2x6x16 on all I'm looking at 9000 roughly. Thinking I'll raise the frame and add a faux 2x2 roof with sheet metal while I save up. What do you think I should do considering my situation, is that even a good idea?
Do you have any videos on what you did in the house? I’m looking to save but have the most efficient home possible
The IRC and any other building code which uses the IRC as it's model code allows 2x4 construction for us to 2-stories.
It's get even more crazy when you start doing performance construction using 2x4's.
Speaking of which, what is your opinion of performance construction/performance building?
Very knowledgeable….
So I’m building my color cutter home with tri pointe and I have 2x4s Any chance I can ask the builder to upgrade whatever they are using to get the polyiso insulation for the outside? This is all very new to me and I’m glad I found this video, just don’t know how to go about speaking in terms they know.
YES! See if you can get a layer of insulation wrapped around the entire exterior if not too late. That will help eliminate the thermal bridging...
Interesting!
I live in a raised-roof ranch with 2x3’s as the base levels walls.
It’s ridiculous, I know-but I didn’t know the wall thickness at the time.
Previous owners built a second story on top of a ranch, adding four bedrooms and a bathroom to the house, which made it seem substantial upon purchase.
Yeah-insulation is terrible, but as for strength, those 2 x 3’s hold the house up just fine, and there’s an attic, as well, and a Tesla solar roof on top of that!
No wall cracking, etc.
Lumber is strong especially old growth. I’m assuming your home is older and probably has old growth framing. Best wood! Sadly we produce wood so quickly now it’s impossible to find now days
If you want the more desirable look of deep-set window wells and doorways, you would need 2x6 though, correct?
I went with a post and beam square notched timber frame with a masonry north wall. To make snow load 70 lbs p.s.f. here many need to go with 2x6 framing. Each of my 9 post in my skillion cottage has to hold 8000 lbs. 50000 lbs for a 720 sq ft roof. I have a skillion cottage with r 40+ in floor north wall and roof. I went mineral wool over my insulated cored cmu block with low perm vapor barrier and air gap before masonry veneer. On a budget and building out of pocket. 2x6 construction would of cost more than a post and beam timber frame. The south wall is almost all windows for winter passive solar gain.
true but some areas further north need both 6x2 and outside insulation. How did you do your polyiso before or after the sheathing or did you double the sheathing and do an in place sips?
Very true. I did over sheathing and rainscreen over poly iso. Too much sheer value lost under sheathing
@@JonDawson i agree, the only under sheathing sheet insulation id use would be zip r3 any more you loose the sheer value.
@@jhippl yea and I want a lot more than that I went inch and a half. I considered doing zip with and additional zip r on top but way to expensive
@@JonDawson ive seen people make what i like to call in place sips where they sheath with osb then put polyiso and then put outside sheathing of normal zip
One of the guys i knew at my last job designs energy efficient residential and his opinion on 2x6 was about the same. There are a lot of option and he said usually a double stud 2x4 wall or a larson truss or a exterior 2x4 with an interior 2x2 will be cheaper. And definitely give you more cavity space and much less thermal bridging.
2x6 homes are better to run wires and plumbing.. how do you guys forget this fact. when i drill a 2" hole into a 2x6 i have far more confidence
@@user-kx2cz1fh7y with a double stud wall you dont have to drill at all
Yes, that is not cheaper than a 2x6 wall. Its a price comparison not a strength comparison. If money is no object then definitely go with double stud 2x4 with a 2x10 top plate@@PandorasFolly
Who was saying that 2x4 construction is going to be weak? Isn't almost every house framed w/ 2x4?
~ I ALWAYS frame with ( 2x6 ) Cuz I know what I’m Doing......
I prefer 2x8. Superior strength, superior insulation options and superior noise control. It doesn't cost that much more than 2x6. That said, I'd probably be using Tstud 2x8's to virtually eliminate the thermal bridging unless costs are really tight....As for 2x4 construction- not for me. Yes on paper it works, but I've never been impressed with the end result. Of course, I'm in New England and think in terms of big colonial homes.
Standard in Europe,
Evrey 24 Inches a Stud.
Sorry they are 4 x 8 Not 2x8
Why not add 1” or 1,5” on the exterior thus increasing the R-value of the wall
Huh?
first
And yet nothing of value to say.