Why would you frame a house with 2x8 lumber?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- www.buildshownetwork.com
While most houses in America are still framed with 2x4 and 2x6, Matt visits Jake Bruton's build in Columbia MO where he's building his personal home with a 2x8 assembly.
Jake Bruton - / jake.bruton
Follow BTS with The Build Show - / thebuildshow
Follow Matt on Instagram! / risingerbuild
or Twitter / mattrisinger
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Rockwool & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds. We would highly encourage you to check out their websites for more info.
www.Poly-Wall.com
www.Dorken.com
www.Huberwood.com
www.Prosoco.com
www.Viewrail.com
www.Rockwool.com
I stopped framing with 2x8's a long time ago. Now I frame with whole trees.
Eco friendly option, how progressive of you
You should do a video on how you run electrical and plumbing in one of your whole tree houses
Lightning rod for electric water thru the root system
@@Mrigotyouu1432 Yes, basically I use an oil rig to drill through the wall. I used to plant the electrical wires within the trees when the trees were small, but it took like 20 years to grow a usable tree, so now we use oil rigs to make holes.
@@julioviloria3289 well each tree through its life cycle gives thousands of seeds each season. Not all of those seeds produce a tree but they could. It's not how many trees you cut down, it's how many trees you grow to replace what you've cut.
It's also not just trees that recycle carbon dioxide, so I really don't understand why you ask the question. If you look at planned forests with trees planted to replace what's cut, you have better space usage and less tinder to combust in the event of a fire, therefore less carbon into the atmosphere as opposed to forests in say California where eco brainless policy is responsible for massive fires doing more damage than when they used to manage the forests.
Sometimes a person's feelings on a matter cause more damage than practical effective policy on maintaining your resources.
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
Here's something to think about - if you use 2x8's @ 24" o.c. you use 21.75 square inches of lumber per 24" length of. If you use 2x4's @ 12" o.c. and you stagger them (one to the inside face / one to the outside face) and you still set them so the wall is 7.25" thick, you only use 15.75 square inches of lumber per 24" length of wall. That accomplishes the same goal of a thicker wall, gives you a sound break, a discontinuous surface for heat gain, and uses 28% less lumber. You also save the premium price of 2x8 lumber. If your goal is to get the most R value in a wall system for a small uptick in cost, why not go all the way and get more benefit for less money. You could argue that setting staggered framing on a continuous top/bottom plate is tedious but the labor cost is made up in material savings. If you made the wall a little wider and used dual top/bot plates you would have a clear run for all of your plumbing and electrical as well. No drilling at all. And I have seen the truss-type studs. Those seems like the obvious winner here for all scenarios.
Double walls are used in Australia, you can have any gap you want in-between
Much better to build split 2x4 walls using 2x8 top and bottom plates. The split provides a thermal break and the deeper stud bays provide for higher R-value insulation in stud bays. I’m not a professional carpenter, but consider this wall construction for my cabin in northern CANADA that has a subarctic climate.
2X4 = 1.5x3.5
2X8 = 1.5x7.25
double 2X4 only result in 7in which is less than 7.25
I double the strength will be the same too
@@hamster6093 It seems you are completely missing the whole point of a 2x6 or 2x8 wall with ‘split’ 2x4 studs. The exact width of the 2x8s and 2x4s is completely irrelevant, other than the obvious fact that the 2x8 is more than double the width of a SINGLE 2x4. The 2x4s are intentionally ‘split’ - meaning they aren’t lined up. If they are lined up with each other on the outside and inside of the wall, that defeats the whole purpose of this method. The purpose is to eliminate thermal bridging. Otherwise, why use 2x4s at all? Again, the exact dimensions of the wood is not important for this method to be effective.
@@ShikokuFoodForest Gotcha
If you blow a fart in this house, you will be able to smell it for 2 years.
Evan Johnson HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa!! I bet they didn’t think about that! There will be some regrets! 🤣🤣🤣
Thats the only rule of a sprayfoamed house or shop.. NO FARTS!!! 😂 or gas burning stoves, waterheaters, furnace. Co2 can be a No No when foaming... atleast from my side. I sprayfoam for a living. Thats the best joke to tell a new or about to be sprayed job owner. 😆 Keep Pushin!
Open a window haha
LMAO!!! Well, I guess a BIG exhaust fan might then be in order.
Hold the beans!!!
I remember building 30- 40 years ago 8 and 10 inch wall cavities with my grandfather and dad. I didn't think industry's resistance to thicker wall was justified. The increased cost was dwarfed by the energy saving and increased confert.
In 1986 my dad built a house with 2x8 plates and staggered 2x4 studs 16" on center. Doing this we overlapped R13 insulation giving 2 layers of R13.
I did pretty much the same with my walls in Alaska, excellent insulation and went through a 7.1 earthquake last year with no damages.
Alaska has a use case for lots of insulation in the house shell with the temperatures that can hit -60°F in the winter.
Many houses built during the oil hayday of the 70s and 80s have 2x4 construction in Alaska. My house I bought in wasilla has 2x6 and I saw a few with 2x4 and wouldn’t even think about buying it. Building with 2x8 would be excessive cost but probably better for insulation. As for the earthquake my house was fine seemed eagle river got the most damage being on the hill. We obviously had road damage but my house faired well. Just broken dishes etc. which sucked cause we bought all new dishes when we bought our house that spring and come winter the earthquake ruined them all. Lmao
bwillan most Alaskans don’t live where it gets -60. Anchorage barely gets below 0 anymore lowest temp I’ve seen in anchorage was easy anchorage hitting -20. Wasilla is warmer usually but go inland farther and it can hit -30. But -60 doesnt happen around here. Even Fairbanks doesn’t hit that low. 60% of Alaskans live in anchorage metro area.
I miss me some Alaska, I lived there from 08 to 11. Lived downtown and Eagle River, good times, I always have to correct people on the 24 hours of dark and the temp.
@@MatanuskaHIGH jeez i seen -45 -48 in montreal...-55 -60 alberta
What we have done, even back to the 80s, is a double 2x4 wall offset. Incredibly warm and eliminates any poly penetration issues.
It's not rocket science, just common sense really
@Keith Willis All ductwork in a wall is vertical not horizontal so the application would be same as if it was a reg 2x4 or 2x6 wall. Pipes and electrical would be ran as if it was a 2x4 wall.
I framed my place with 2x8s here in Canada - plus r8 board on the exterior....cozy...lovin’ it
Love to hear it!!
I'm going to use 2 x 12s on 8" centers. I need to get in shape anyway.
Maybe this guy didn't think of that? It would be even better if you used a 11 7/8" LVL. You could have r184. Stupid overkill. You can always tell who is selling this kind of BS.
I'm going to build a loghouse from giant redwood trees
I'm building my house with 12x12'z 😂
Anybody ever stud with 4x4's?? They're really strong so you don't even need a sill plate or top plate. For extra rigidity I wrap the whole house in a double layer of Tyvek.
@@AOMartialArts you people are funny as shit... I just woke my wife laughing...
I just want to say thank you for this UA-cam channel and for the contractors, builders and suppliers you bring on. Not everyone may have the liberty of building from the ground up or funds for some of these builds or upgrades shown, but you certainly bring some great ideas to the table and things to consider. My wife and I recently purchased an older home (1940's build) but you along with others on your channel have provided me insight into things to look into and to consider with updates we have planed for this home. Thank you for the ideas they are greatly appreciated.
Shrinkage
thumbnail looks like it says "2x3" :p
I saw the same thing. Why the hell would you build a house with 2x3s?
That is what I though it looked like to. I came here thinking that and surprisingly, I knew someone who did use 2"x3" studs for some non-load bearing walls and what a mistake that was. It seems like the 2"x3" studs really warp and twist bad for some reason. It made it very difficult to install the drywall with so many of the studs being twisted.
Ya I thought they were building a mobile home
@@ben12079 You might do split-stud framing, then you don't need the R-HuberZip on the outside.
Only reason I watched was the 2x3 stud walls. 😂😂😂😂
Mine is built by 2x12’s 2000 square ft house in Arkansas. Was rough cut and air dried in my shop over three years. TRUE 2x12’s. Did that 10 years ago.
Very nice. Are you a home builder? I wouldn't even begin to know what all was needed to do something like that. What did you fill the wall cavities with?
Thank you. No sir or ma’am not sure of the pronoun that I should use (respectively). My father was a true carpenter/craftsman. I wouldn’t pretend to know what a carpenter knows however I am paid often to imitate one. Used spray polyurethane foam (spf) for insulation. To pass inspection here one must not go over 6” worth. Then electricians done the wiring followed by r19 batt insulation. I must confess there was a small amount of compression that took place but not much. Then followed by t1-11 on the walls.
So, normally a house that size would need about a 3.5 ton a/c unit. I'm guessing you get by with a 2 ton unit?
We have a 5 ton ac. It’s recommended that 1 ton per 400 square feet. It doesn’t come on many times a day though even when really hot out side.
@@youarerightandiamwrong7314, I've always heard 1 ton for every 500 square feet. But with so much insulation, I'd worry that short cycling the unit so much would be bad for it.
I've been building using 2x8 MOD 24 framing since 1978, and I have at least 32 award wining energy efficient homes (all above 92%) here in Florida. Most of the homes exceed 4,000 sf, on one the efficiency exceeds 107% in that we sell energy back into the power grid using both the roof solar system and the wind generating system. Easy to do, cost about 22% more than conventional, but the payback is usually less than 96/97 months and then you are always in the black making money to put back into your pocket.
Hey Don, I know this is an old post, but I'm planning on building a house(myself) here in Florida. What are your thoughts on which is mor structurally sound and energy efficient... 2x8 @24" or staggered 2x4 @12"?
I was the first person in St. Joseph, Mo. to use Zip R-6. I also had my framers frame the house using advanced framing methods. The people I work with at the lumber yard looked at me funny but they soon caught on to the long term value I was creating. I pay about 1/3 of what my neighbors pay to heat my house with electricity. The additional up front costs in the upgraded methods and materials have paid me back in less than 3 years. I didn't use closed cell foam but the sound deadening effect that the insulated Zip panels is fantastic. Keep fighting the good fight fellas!
Bob Ross thanks bob
Brookfield mo
I SUPPOSE THE ADVANCED FRAMING METHODS ARE YOUR TOP SECRET. THERE IS NO METHOD OF FRAMING THAT IS NOT BEING USED SOMEWHERE ELSE..MOST STATES HAVE A FEW GREAT FRAMERS.
Zip panels suck. Only people like you who don't crap would say 1/3 the cost. What your neighbors have the exact same house built at the exact same time? A quality house wrap accomplishes the exact same benefits. What zip panel has a r value? None. I'm a 25 year framer and have had extensive talks with inspectors and engineers about zip panels.
trshuster very nice! The homes you build will not only cost less to run, but it makes going solar a whole lot more viable because you’ll be able to offset all your electrical costs at a fraction of the price as the neighbors.
I personally feel 1x1 make the best framing. It also leaves much more room in the interior
Funny guy - that's why you don't have friends to go out with and have to troll you tube
You are a genius.
A much as I hate wasted space. Anything thinner than your standard 2x4 (which is actually 1.5 by 3.5 for some reason) doesn’t sound like a great idea. If you want to make wall sturdier without making them thicker use tighter stud spacing and good quality lumber.
Personally I love thin walls, I like to hear my neighbors fvcking 😎
@@mauraece we all have our own kinks. Personally I like people hearing me. Thats why i’m glad your my neighbor.
I'm a contractor in northern New York, and I've been framing with 2x8s for the last 2 years. With increases in insulating requirements, it's much cheaper for my customers to buy 2x8s, and fill with 2 layers of r15 Roxsul for a wall cavity R value of 30, than to use zip-R, at its bloated cost.
I agree, just got a quote today on the ZIP R here is eastern canada and its over $100.00 per sheet....very expensive
@@drummerboy6178 Yes Eastern Canada here, Prince Edward Island. The plan at our end is 2x6 studs, no zip, but 3/4 ply and then 3 layers of 2" rigid foam. Zip R in zone 6 and above will not provide the right shear force with insulation against the studs...also poly iso is less affective in cold and that is when we Northern folks need the R value. Seems ridiculous to buy zip R up here in cold climates. All good info to share with each other. 🇨🇦👍
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs Also in PEI here, 3 layers of 2" rigid foam, very nice...but above my budget, Im going with the R24 in the walls and 1" styrofoam on outside walls giving me a R30 total..
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs What do u mean by ZIp R in ZONE 6....thanks
I like it; it seems like a good compromise between traditional framing and modern upgrades.
Amazing build and a great choice of materials. My first choice is ICF or SIP, ...but ZIP + 2x8 + spray foam allows for good R-value and flexibility in service lines in-wall. 👏
Matt is really good. Extremely good hosting and interviewing skills and a dam good builder.
As you name states!!
One of the only times I saw a framed design that made me rethink my block-or-die mentality.
@SirVixIsVexed I have old-man mentality in that I'm a stickler for "what has worked for 100 years will work for another 100" and saw benefit to ICF, but not night-and-day benefit. I figured a block build with furred out walls and some high-R value insulation on the inside would be comparable and a more 'classic' build to a custom ICF block. Maybe I'm wrong? Last time I looked at ICF was 10 years ago.
@@rkalla Block will be stronger,block can also be filled with zonlite or pump in foam
You missed pointing out the German-style windows. Manufacturers need to start making these and builders and architects should start demanding them.
I miss those so bad! Time in Germany ruined me! Nothing better in a fall rain than turning the handle 180 degrees and leaning the top of the window in about 8 inches to get fresh air.
Bonus is the tilting of the window allows you to leave window vented and it’s nearly impossible to open from the outside (security). Lastly by swing the total window in its is easily cleaned.
Lol It's just called a hinged window. It's obvious you don't know how the world works, people know these exist, architects don't use them because people have preferences to their own.
Just because YOU think it's a good idea, doesn't mean everyone else should follow... Not everything is to your standards, and there are always better things out there than what you promote.
Dm So therefore because someone else doesn’t think they are good means the masses must use what the architects deem as good? Funny
Dm So cool your jets! Only enthusiasm for this type of window was expressed, not a desire to eliminate personal choice. You sound like your sugar is low. Go have a Snickers! 😁
Favorite channel by a long shot. Thanks guys
That’s my home town!!!! Awesome!! Haha. Never in my mind did I think you would be there!!!!
In Finland we use 2x8 and then a 2x2 on The inside with the air barrier in between, that has been The norm here for about 20 years
damn you rich...
@@lifeispain07 In Sweden we used to do that : ) now some new houses have 2x14" (most have 2x9.5"), and that is not even a passive house build. It really don't add a lot of cost going up.
@@lifeispain07 And generaly the houses are much smaller. It's still a good thing to be warm at -30 degrees. And something to think about here as our winter temprature appear to be getting colder.
Simon Jäkälä
quick question, are wood houses common/predominant in finland? i’m from central europe (let’s say, the temperature range would be from -20C to 36C (-4F to 97F)) and although i feel like they’re gaining in popularity, still most of the family houses are done from some type of brick/concrete.
on youtube, one gets the feeling 95% of US family houses are some kind of wooden lightweight frame construction.
edit: here for example stats from germany (2018, family houses):
(clay) brick 25.300
autoclaved aerated concrete 20.721
wood 16.711
sand-lime brick 11.944
reinforced concrete 4.883
lightweight concrete 2.709
other 1.232
steel 3
Thougt exactly the same, even with the outside insulation you get a thermal bridge With 2x8" if you use 2x6 and then additional 2x2 you get a real reduction in thermal bridges that will save you money in the long run.
R42! You could heat the house with a candle!! Great idea
My first thought is that legal issues like property taxes, zoning, and septic system valuations are all based on a measurement of the OUTSIDE of the house, so when you double the thickness of the wall, every three lineal feet of wall is one square foot of living space you’re paying for in many ways that you don’t really have access to. It adds up a lot more than you might initially think. It looks like the interior walls are all 2x6 also, so every six feet of interior wall is a lost square foot of usable living space. That’s a ton of floor area that’s underneath walls in this house.
My second thought was, where’s the house? If it were in Alaska or a similar climate, I’d see a lot of value in thicker walls, but I believe they said Missouri? This kind of feels like hunting dove with a cannon. Dove is tasty, cannons are useful, but a wise man matches the solution to the problem.
But the ultimate question is, how does this system compare to the alternative options? Without valuing the point of reference, you can’t make a worthwhile comparison to know whether this is worth doing. For example, if 2x8s are good, maybe 2x12s are even better. Maybe a pair of 2x4 walls with the studs staggered. Maybe 2x4 walls with SIPS lining the exterior. Etc etc. In other words, any fool can throw more material at a job. The interesting part is calculating what benefits, if any, you get.
Great point. I've cut and screwed down a lot of questionable 2x4s, but 2x6s are a league above them already and heavy enough up here where they don't kiln dry wood.
UBC is doing that research. we do have data. seems to be the cuttoff is somewhere between a 10" wall assembly and a 16" wall assembly, depending on your materials.
The real question is "why are we forcing everyone to build to such a high standard?"
I'd rather be in a shack made of 2x2's that i own than renting or mortgaging an uber expensive modern green build and never ever being out of that rut.
thisisn'tmyrealname excellent point! I’ve been interested for several years in how the various building requirements, code but also zoning, planning, septic, etc coincide to make housing inaccessible to the poor.
missouri can get pretty hot and humid in the summer. just because it dosent get really cold there dosent mean you dont need good insulation
@@resqjason2 works both ways. and it has an effect on the vapor barrier.
Plus . You can hide a BODY in the wall. ( OOPS , THAT WAS MY INSIDE VOICE )😁😁😁😁
That's what Joe Pesci Said.
I guess it's one way to add more insulation. But, it seems to me that when you get deeper than a 2 x 6, engineered lumber is a better way to go. Its made like an I beam with faces of solid wood and strand board in middle. You can make your walls 8 inches thick or more if you want and the strand board center makes it more insulating than a solid wood stud. Plus, the factory makes the structural beams cut to order with very little waste. It's more environmentally friendly and less labor is required to assemble the walls. It's also lot easier to run wiring and plumbing through them. The problem with large timbers is that they have to be cut from larger trees with a lot of waste. Engineered lumber can be made of practically the entire tree and they don't have to be as large. Have you tried to find decent large timbers these days? The quality isn't like it used to be.
Hi Matt. I would love to see you do a video on alternate stud framing and it pros and cons. 2x6 or 2x8 walls with 2x4 studs. Your technical approach is very informative and much appreciated. Thanks
Alternate spacing using 2x4 in a 2x8 wall will also give a much better thermal break.
Extreme r value, super sturdy for running long spans in rooms, the idea about the foam/plywood sheathing would be a good idea for any house being built today.
That’s an amazing wall system right there - truly great! Thanks for sharing this video - really great stuff here!
Where have you been? That is just a stud wall, it's not alien technology 😁
col stace I’ve never seen someone use 2x8s like this with all that insulation / ISO. It’s a great idea, so I shared my thoughts. ✌🏻
Incredible r-value & strength with the 2x8's!
Brilliant use of foam! Makes studs stronger. I've been building with 2 by 8s and 2 by 12s for 30 years in Alaska. The foam in and out makes a huge difference! Bravo!!!
Very informative. I guess when money is no object.
Wow! Really cool to see the benefits of 2x8's and the advantage of having all that depth. I really liked the detached triple 2x4 column they created for the truss load point as well, that's a very innovative little detail. Definitely going to check their company out.
Innovative? Really? Seems common sense to me, or use a 4" dia steel pole, not rocket science
@@colstace2560 Okay maybe "innovative" was the wrong word...pole would work too, either way, I just like the fact that it was designed to be standalone and not part of the exterior wall.
I have more or less the equivalent in my house with is double 2x4 framing. The studs in the interior wall are all offset from those in the exterior wall to minimize thermal bridging except at the corners and around windows and doors. All wiring/plumbing is in the inner wall so there are no insulation penetrations in the outer wall. A fair bit more work to frame though. Back in the 80s when I lived in Manitoba we had a double 2x6 framed house. It was very easy to heat.
Sounds like a better mousetrap.
how did you go about installing exterior doors?
@@mikeb9245 Just like any other door. Framed it in.
I had the idea 30 years ago, when I was framing to use 2X8 plates with offset 2X4 studs. No thermal break
Great idea!! You also eliminate having to drill through all your studs to run your electrical- just fish it around your offsets. Mind if I steal it?
@@nicholasoppenheimer3647 feel free
I put isolation in my interior walls as well, and it makes each room much quieter. My exterior walls are sound proof walls with 2 walls not joined or touching each other so sound vibrations can't transfer sound through a solid wall, and wall studs. It pays off in the long run because the energy savings soon catch and pass the cost of the added materials. Makes a worm quiet house that way.
Awesome build.
As a spray foam installer, I’d enjoy seeing a video explaining to others how important the hvac system is when encapsulating a home and making it this tight.
Static pressure needs to be accounted for, less you just hate your ear drums
I helped my brother build a house with 2 by 8 outer walls back in the late '80's. You could heat the whole place with a blow-dryer. It was the most amazing, draught free, sturdy house I've ever been in. R-30 in the walls and r-40 in the ceiling.
From my experience it takes forever to cool the house back down if it becomes over heated. Went to a friends Xmas party with 2x8 framing. The outdoor temp was 20f and inside temp was 80f with 50 guest creating lots of heat. We opened every window in the house and 3 hours later it was still 80f.
In the Seventies I read an article where they called it “Superinsulation” technique. I thought it died out until seeing this video 👍
@@mpyoung33 friends do alot of gabbing
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 it was a Xmas orgy with mostly moaning and no talking.
@@mpyoung33 🤣🤣😂
NICE...!!..HIGH FROM CANADA...MY SON LIVES IN COLUMBIA...WAS THERE THIS SUMMER...LOVED IT!!
My preference is for 2x6's. I used 5/8" zip board on the outside of the studs. I live in the south and daily condensation behind siding/brick is a constant battle, we kept the condensation layer away from the water/air control layer (zip board) by placing one layer of 1" iso horizontally, and a second layer of 2" foil covered iso vertically. Then attached furring strips to each stud to mount our siding. At the bottom of the 3/4" furring strips we placed Cora-vent and allow the air gap behind the siding to ventilate. This allows moisture and heat to escape, as well as keeping the condensation layer away from the water/air control layer which over time degrades it.
I built with double 2x4 16" oc for a 8" wall. 2" of foam r19 insulation on top. It's very warm for a Montana winter. The benefit over the 2x8 stud is no thermal transfer. I didnt have to do the expensive zip or exterior insulation.
Yeah but that's a lot more expensive than 2x6 24 oc with 2" foam on the outside
This is exactly what I've been thinking to do should I ever get around to building my own house.
I'm curious to see a pro-con episode about single 2x8 vs dual 2x4 with a gap to allow for more of a thermal break.
We stagger the studs in the corridor walls for apartments, mainly for a nice sound barrier. One con, is the amount of studs used is more, but I am sure there is a way to possibly reduce the amount of studs. Our details call for a stud every 1' staggered. I was thinking about this during the video.
@Hail Honkler Curious why 2x12 plates instead of 2x10? Do you plan to stagger the double studs?
Based on my quick calculations at the stud locations (assuming non-staggered and ignoring the insulated exterior plywood) with 2x10 plates you would get about an R-18 and 2x12 plates you would get about R-25.4. In non-stud locations you'd get about R-40 with 2x10 plates and about R-47 with 2x12 plates.
Pretty much every house built in Australia has cavity walls, the only single framed wall I have seen is in 150+yr old pioneer type houses
Double 2x4 would be cheaper and more effective than this wasteful 2x8 wall
@Hail Honkler Sounds like you've got a great plan. Belt and suspenders for sure!
Thank you for taking up for the framers
Love the rough plumbing job...nice.
At 2:04 you can clearly see that the floor trusses are offset and not exactly centered on the 2x8s.
don't have to be if a double plated top.
@Jordan Sheppherd That may be fine as far as code is concerned, but if you also listen to the audio immediately after, he clearly states they are centered and then goes on to praise the weight bearing capacity of such a setup. I wasn't commenting on codes, I was commenting on his narration.
2x8 plate, 2x4 stud, 8" on center, one on the front of the late,one on the back, closed cell foam and you get a continuous insulation layer
Patrice Le Brasseur sounds super effective, just annoying to frame?
Interesting. I like it.
@@Vikingwerk it's not that bad to frame, you do the exterior stud 16 on center,, raise the wall then do those o. The inside
Cool video - 1st thought that came to my mind watching was why not build with ICF insulated concrete form
I recently completed a structure with 8-inch walls consisting of two 2x4 walls offset horizontally by eight inches. Each stud was notched four feet high and a horizontal 2x4 fitted into the notch to provide lateral bracing. Opening were framed with 2x8s. Top and bottom plates were 2x8s. Since no stud went from wall to wall, the low R value studs are not heat leaks. Every stud has four inches of insulation on one edge of it. Easier to run electrical wire because it weaves between the studs instead of having to bore holes in each stud. Walls were pored full of perlite and 12 inches of blown in cellulose overhead. Pros: super strong and well insulated. Very quiet. Cons: a little more material expense and time involved in construction. Also, sheathing must be well attached to studs or perlite will leak out through tiny gaps, which necessitates caulking around electrical outlets.
It is beautifully built, but I can’t even fathom wanting a 4,000 sf home!
If you have 2-4 kids, and a home office it’s pretty easy to fill a 4K sqft home. You have 4-5 bedrooms, an office space, living room, dining room, kitchen.
You can easily live comfortably in 2-3k sqft but if you enjoy larger open spaces with big closets and plenty of bathrooms it’s not hard to comfortably fill in 4K sqft. And remember he’s a builder so the actual cost of building it is fairly low, and he can experiment with some new ideas without much worry.
I know some people living with 5-6ksqft, and it’s definitely a big house but the way it’s laid out it does not feel giant or overwhelming. They have lots of big open rooms. And each bedroom has a big closet and bathroom. But I’ve seen other people’s large homes that feel so uncomfortable due to their size/bad design.
I have 2 kids and 1900 ft. It is plenty. I couldn't imagine having to clean 2 of my homes for the same amount of people!
All I see with huge ass houses is heating and cooling year round. Most houses aren’t purposely built for great insulation like this house. My house is 900 sq feet and it feels plenty big enough for 4-5 people. To each their own I guess.
thanks for the video. i have to assume lumber pricing is similar where you are and find myself wondering why you would pay more for thermal bridging instead of running offset 2x4 walls for a total 8 inch depth for insulation without a solid mass thermal bridge.. i guess we do things a litttle differently up here in iglooland lol
Great idea!
We were doing this in the 1980's at Randy King Construction in Waynesville, Mo. Increased the R Value and add almost nothing to the cost. We also used Marine treated plywood on the floors in bathrooms and kitchen and laundry rooms in case a water leak d over the life of the house. We used it in the roof as well.
Smart...very smart
Question: is the rigid enough to keep the dew point outside the assembly? I'm not familiar with your climate zone.
Statement: bearing capacity of 2x4 studs is more than adequate so let's not pretend that it's not. That said, 2x8 is an awesome assembly.
Question: how do you support the 2x4 bearing points laterally? I assume that it's not needed since the floor is the diaphragm and the stud is a good enough slenderness ratio??
Statement: love that you're showing off your own home. That's fantastic - great work! 👏👏
I used 2x10 here in Wyoming, worked out nice and warm, Much lower heating /cooling bills, and quite as well.
...much lower heating and cooling bills...compared to what? Did you build the exact same house?
Great title, great thumbnail, great video!
This is awesome, I really need3d this.
And it is more lumber, over twice as much lumber.
Thick walls allow for wider pipes going through those walls, and that’s handy
You reduce the square footage of the living space or you had to pay for more cement to make the larger (slab) or More subfloor you need to add that into the cost as well.
I doubt he’d be crying for an extra 8 on each side when he’s already building 4000+ sqf house
Matt/Jake: Can either of you comment about the difference in the 2" x 8" wall build detail concerning the window headers that is showing in the video?
I don't see a traditional header, unless it is somehow hidden by the spray foam insulation.
I definitely wanted 2x6 exterior walls on the house I want to build but I like this idea a lot!
I have built my home 10 yrs ago as passive solar design with 2x 8 walls and spray foam. Thermal bridging is a concern if your trying to achieve high efficiency. I’m a licensed builder and go through extensive training yearly. The new designs that are being brought forth are 2x4 walls with comfort batt (Roxul mineral wool) applied on the exterior side.
My home has performed very well and I’m very happy with the results.
I thought it said 2X3 framing... LOL The thumbnail was perfect with his arm across the eight as it looked like a three.
Double frame with 2x4 and off set the studs. That breaks up the low R-value studs that carry the cold straight through your walls.
Good idea. Also provides sound-proofing.
Bingo
Until you get to a door or window, then an offset double wall gets complicated fast.
@@jerryherndon6766 Not if you just use 2X8s around doors and windows.
@@craigcorson3036 Exactly! It gets complicated.
Smart guy making the right choices.
Very nice.. thumbs up!
Hi Matt, another great video! Thanks. Recently you've shown several homes with massive amounts of insulation and of course Missouri warrants it. But it would be great if you could get some experts on to talk about at what point you get diminishing returns and it would be better to put the money into other upgrades.
Generally speaking, going over R30 in the walls has a life cycle cost that is higher than the cost of installing photovoltaics.
One thing he didn't address was the additional increase n foundation, wiring, etc. in addition to the cost of materials because you are either decreasing the interior volume of each room by 2-4 inches on each wall or increasing the foundation by that much on all sides. It's a cost I would likely be willing to incur, but it is an additional cost.
What increase in wiring? What increase in foundation? Even if there was, it wouldn't add cost
Not a builder, are ya?
@@shimes424 More weight added to your foundation. Your foundation has a rating...
Wiring, I'd assume OP is getting at that you're going to have slightly more wiring to add to your home due to the increase in distance.
@@shimes424 Typical site builders not knowing what an engineer is. Lmao
The heavier the structure above, the more the foundation has to hold . It’s amazing how awful people can be in the comments .☝️
A two story already has a 8 inch wall.
Twenty years ago I built my personal home with 2 x 8 studs. Now I build with concrete and the whole assembly is 20 inches thick. It is drastically better than building with wood.
Great video, I built a couple of homes with 2x8. It works well and you can up the R-value, however. The last home I built I used a product out of Idaho call Ray-core. You may want to look into it, it has literally doubled my R-value. My last House was a 2x 6 construction with faux logs on the outside and sheetrock on the inside, and it gave me an R value of R57, and cost a lot less than it would have been to Timber Frame a 2x8 and closed cell foam. Thanks for the videos, keep it up
You also tend to get much better quality wood with 2x8.
And then for the rest of us who can't afford stuff anymore, we'll live in converted shipping containers.
funny, in my region we are mandating all houses be built to this standard or higher, and as a builder/ developer/ landlord/ homeowner, all i can say to it is we will kill the middle classes thoughts of home ownership with this. its like mandating that only bugati's are allowed on the road- sure it might be nice, but no one can actually afford it.
I am met with derision for my warnings. After all, we need to fight climate change by making the middle class into serfs.
@@hosmerhomeboy yep killing the american dream a little at a time.
If you can't afford 2 grand more in lumber costs for a 4500 square foot house you have no business buying it in the first place not to mention the tens of thousands you'll save over the lifetime of the house in energy savings plus added comfort.
@@MrWisdom79 you missed his point. By mandating building requirements beyond what has been the traditional methods, the cost for every home goes up. The entry level buyer won't have the extra capital to draw from. Several thousand added to the initial cost is harder to absorb for the lower end of the market.
My wife and I have been looking into building with containers. There have been some very impressive homes made from them.
A great way to build a well-insulated house, love the 2x8 construction. What windows are used, I think I know because they look like the German Rollag windows we have in our house. We bought land in MO on Bull Shoals I sure would like Jake Bruton to be our builder.
I live in Columbia, MO. I know and am related to home builders in the area..... never herd of this guy or his company.
I’ve never seen a sign, a truck, a house, advertisement, a shirt, or ever herd of them around town.
Hmmmmm I live in Boston MA and I've heard of him, seen him, seen his house and his truck .......
Steven Baczek guess you want his videos and such here. But I’m saying as a guy local to him I should have seen him I’d think by now. Especially since we’re in a very competitive and saturated market.
I'm not sure about drywall only being supported 24in on center. Unless your installing some thicker drywall? Even with 16in on center in my house, there have been times with rowdy kids that I saw the drywall flex more than I was comfortable with (thankfully no breaks yet)
Poor framers who need to lift those walls.
Wall jacks may be the way to go.
Shaaaatup and get back to work.
telehandler should be on a project that big
But running top plates would be like running on a highway!
Eric Wescoe Or tractors/crane.
A whole house fan has a heat exchanger that comes on intermittently throughout the day for fresh air exchange, a house this heavily insulated is an excellent idea!
In my area there is a pole barn builder that gets high grade lumber for the tolerances needed for the production rates they work at. They have a saw system that can custom cut whole hacks to any desired length more accurately than your standard precut.
Cross laminated lumber: solid wood walls...fire rated as heavy timber construction...thicker adds more R value and fire rating.
When is T-Stud going to have their 2x8 insulated studs available?
I only used 2x8 on my top plate, all the exterior walls with double stud 2x4s. Having the thermal break when the outside temperatures are 110f below from the inside it makes a difference. I had 6” of closed cell foam put in the walls and I put R-38 Batts with R21 batts between the trusses in the ceiling.. Last winter here in Alaska with the 7th coldest winter on record I used about 500 of heating oil to heat 3000 sq ft.
Awesome! As a disabled senior, my quest is to find a piece of land and BUILD my own tiny(ish) house with great insulation properties, old styling as if it grew over time and in materials that I would be able to supposedly gather from the land, put together and do it basically myself! Yes, you can accomplish anything with the Lord at your side, making your crooked path straight.
I have found a way to do the build, having found a Scandinavian style building block that I can do myself. It is then pegged together. I will adapt it with adobe slurry that will create flat walls inside and out with an air space in-between to take advantage of the cooling/heating from the earth 12 feet down. The walls finished in lime plastering/adobe on the outside finished with carnauba wax to protect the surface. Lots of windows with storm shutters/copper screening for the seasons. A covered wrap around porch so I can walk around during the rainy season...water catchment like I saw at Winchester House in CA. She had seven cisterns that have never gone dry yet the no one knows where they are anymore.
I have so many ideas! Who says a woman with congestive heart failure cannot build her own home, grow her own gardens!. I, too can be self-reliant! I look forward to seeing your future shows. Love the ideas!
Go realize your dream. Don’t be afraid to ask for help to achieve it. Good luck
Anyone can build a house, it's not rocket science, it's basically just a box with a roof. Did you ever look into starting a community/commune? Get a group of like minded people to group-buy land where you have your own space and house with a community garden. Everyone needs to have a skill that they share with the group to build and grow the community. Have a tool and equipment pool to share etc. Just a thought
It seems that should be building code in Maricopa and Pima counties, AZ. 2X4 framing here doesn't cut it for proper insulation.
The more I build and am exposed to I wouldn’t build a house with 2x4 at all
@@wallgod663 may you explain yourself?
Agreed
I would like details on door and window installation with thick walls.
Windows would install the same you would just have deeper sills. Doors might require a custom frame unless you can find them pre hung for x8 framing. Haven't built with x8s yet but installation would still be the same only sill depth changes.
mothman1967 i know this is an old comment, but basically for windows, its like the other guy said, wide window sills on the interior of the house. As for doors, they get hung justified towards their swing, and have a bit of an alcove effect on the opposite side. So say your main entrance door swings inward, you hang the door frame flush with the inside of the wall, and trim up to it from the outside. Ran into this a lot remodeling Adobe houses, were you can have walls 16 inches thick or more.
Certainly impressive.
Dang Matt, I am not a builder but I feel as though I am going to be! Thank you for the great content.
2x10 is standard in sweden, and then adding extra 2 x2 on outside and inside. my house is 400mm wall insolation and 500roof. but we only use roxwool couse you need to keep air moving out of your construction otherwise you get mold. pu foam is crap and has poisoned hundreds of thousands if not millions of homes. so in one way keeping to traditional ways of building and proof-en techniques that have been used for 30-40 years is the way to stay safe and have a solid home. all the inovation crap just get you in trouble, but have fun :P
Why isn't a stagger stud setups more common?
And I am not certain that the benefits of R value is as linear as they make it sound.
Thermal bridging is a thing. There's a r 6 on the outside at least. They probably didn't stagger stud it because it'd be extra work.
@@talontoth4402 Yeah it is more work because it would essentially be 12" OC studs, but it is not that much more work. It is also a better sound isolation setup.
Overall upfront cost is higher due to the extra labor of essentially building 2 house exteriors even though 2 2×4s is cheaper than a 2x8 in most places. If you are building it yourself or including long term costs, that incentive goes away. With staggered studs you eliminate thermal bridging whether you choose 16" or 24" centers. You could even do a 2x4 curtain wall exterior and 2x6 interior wall for a multistory house and connect them together with 2x4 cross bracing for additional racking strength. If you decide to do 24" centers and cellulose fill, single sheet drywall will bow out eventually (5-10 years) - 16" centers and 24" centers with double layer overlapping drywall is less noticeable
My house was built in 1986 and has 14" thick exterior walls siding to drywall
That is the way every house should be built. Awesome stuff, I have been telling people about building houses like this and raising the R rating as high as they can get it.
My dream house will be framed with 2x8 T-studs in the outside walls.
this would be amazing
Are they available locally or do you have to ship them in?
@@moocrazytn order from manufacturer, they ship to lumber yard.
From watching quite a few videos from this channel, it seems like it’s main goal is to make construction as expensive and difficult as possible.
@Mark OnTheBlueRidge, no, but he's usually pushing new products that haven't seen decades of testing and are still in their expensive phase. For example, fiberglass insulation and blown insulation have been used for decades. We know the health risks associated with them. We know how the break down over time (very little). We know how to properly dispose of them during demolition. And, because the patents on them are long expired, we can get them cheaply from various competing companies. These factors don't all apply to spray-in insulation.
One has to factor in the Total Cost of Ownership over the life of the building. The money you spend up front to having a well insulated, tight building envelope, will be paid back in short order in energy savings for heating and cooling. Then there is the intangible quality for a comfortable house to live in.
That, and building odd houses that will be hard to re-sell.
@@bwillan Are you going to live in your house for 50 years? How many months a year are you heating? In Missouri this building style will never pay for itself.
@@oldcountryman2795 Heating is only one part of the energy use equation. Cooling is equally important. I live in Canada in an area that is relatively humid (Southern Ontario). All but 2 months of the year we are either heating the house or air conditioning it. So a well insulated tight building envelope is important and will pay for itself over time. I don't know about your energy costs, but mine only ever seem to increase. I may not live in my house for 50 years, but wouldn't you agree that relatively low energy bills would be a selling feature some buyers would consider?
Very nice, I always liked 2x8's
I framed my house with 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" plywood. 5ft on center. My R value is somewhere in the neighborhood of ~350. Single story for obvious reasons. Super warm in the winter. Blew away with the first storm in the summer though.
Soon it'll be two 2x4 walls separated by 2 feet filled with polyiso for R350
if I could afford it!
In my experience, double-stud 2x4 are usually about 12" total wall thickness (with offset of studs if the builder was paying attention), and cellulose dense-pack poured into the cavity. Once you hit R-50 to R-60, there's not much point in going higher unless you could do so for no/negative cost or maybe if you are in Climate Zone 8.
Where do you stop? It's kinda like drag racing, "if I can just get 1 more cubic inch I can cut .00001 sec of my et" enough already !!!!
it´s already here
Can you imagine instead of door jambs it'll be a damn hallway 😆
"Why 2x8's?"
"Because it's *MY* house."
Yea, I’d like to buy this house. He built it like his own.
@@DonaldDump2024 4K square feet is good for families who can't stand each other.
and then proceeds to do it on 24 inch centers, the guy builds crap.
@@DonaldDump2024 It IS his own house, he said as much. That's literally the reason why he did it that way.
MadMan Machinations
I know but eventually he may sell it. I visited a nearby home under construction by the builder/owner. I saw that many of the sheathing nails missed the studs. When I pointed that out he said “Oh, that’s ok, it’s still strong.” I would want them redone and hammered into the studs, do it right, but he didn’t think so. I’ve dealt with too many careless/lazy mistakes by builders. I’ve learned that Cheapest isn’t the best. Pay a little more for good job.
If you don't try, you don't know! Very cool touches in there.
Vinyl tilt turns? Ugh - love everything else
They are Upvc, and you have to see them before passing judgement