I'm a truss designer in Winnipeg, MB where it gets cold. We haven't done the little 4" heel height (we call it a 1/4" heel cut) since the 80's. In the 90's we moved to what we called 'standard heel' which was typically 7 1/4" heel and allows R20 over the walls. In the 2000's a 12" heel became prevalent so that we could get R40 over the walls. Since the 2010's, we've been going with a 14" heel, and R50 is the norm now. It's important to note that the National Building Code only stipulates that you need R20 over the exterior walls, with insulation ramping up to R40 within (I believe) 4' or so of that exterior wall as you move toward the center of the truss. This means that legally, trusses in this province only require a 7 1/4" heel cut to achieve this, however the cost to upgrade to a 14" heel is quite small, therefore the vast majority of homebuilders, whether small and custom, or large tract builders, just spec a 14" heel and R50 throughout.
Gotta love Winnipeg, where the meaning of 'it gets cold' gets redefined for those who visit it during the colder half of the year. With respect from the prairies...
I grew up in Winnipeg and have lived in US for 25 years. We have a new house and I am happy to say that current building technology in US is every bit as good as it was in Canada when I left in the'90s. But, California wins for earthquake and fire protection.
I live in a hastily constructed rental unit in Northern Manitoba from 2004, and it has triple pane windows. They still get condensation turning to ice when the exterior temperature is below -30°C (that can last for weeks, it usually goes as low as -40° at some point).
Beautiful 24" OC framing throughout. I love how everything was so well done and so well thought out ... my only issue here has nothing to do with the building, it's almost every time you ask Steve to explain how or why he did something in particular, as he starts to explain you cut to shots around the building instead of showing what Steve is talking about. You raise very good questions that makes your audience perk up and say " Oh yeah .. what about that? and we lean in to see the great craftsmanship and the explanation but instead we are watching a panning shot of something else with Steve doing a voice over. I'm sorry to point this out when everything else is so great, but I'm a film guy and it's all about the visual as well as the explanation. Thanks for all the great info as always.
Yeah, I noticed those too and it's very distracting. The video takes away the importance of what's being said. Either, they didn't have enough raw footage of the subject being discussed or the editor couldn't care less about what was discussed. BTW, I'm not a film guy ;)
Something you might want to consider: When you interview someone, you are often encountering someone whose job is not filmmaking, presenting, or public speaking. Most people, even eloquent speakers or great communicators, are out of their usual element when being interviewed in front of a camera. It is relatively easy to cut out audio together into a cohesive whole without anyone noticing. You cannot do this with video without obvious choppy cuts. The solution is b-roll. It presents the interviewee and their message very well without resorting to early UA-cam style jump-cuts. If the camera is showing something else when an interviewee is speaking, you can almost always bet it is to allow the editor to bring the whole thing together smoothly.
@@creamwobbly No clue what you are talking about, but jump cuts in the middle of conversation with a single camera are definitely an inferior filming style, at least aesthetically. And yes, large and profitable UA-cam channels these days have way, way higher production value than they used to, and pretty much every channel that cares even a little bit about quality filming uses multi-camera set ups and b roll, just like every single television show. Early UA-cam obviously was way worse kn quality because it was way less profitable, and thus saw way less investment.
@@leafan101. Most of the multicamera work by UA-camrs creating distracting off angle shots for no real reason. The B-roll is the important stuff that should be done as it adds to the topic being discussed.
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
I've worked for several 'smart builders' and the only thing advanced about what they do is convincing people to pay a premium for less material, a scientifically dubious increase in efficiency, and to have their walls pumped full of a potentially hazardous foam. Maybe I'm a luddite but every 'advanced' project I've ever worked on seemed to focus more on selling the concept of the process than with actually building an elegant, efficient structure. Everyone I've ever worked for that builds like this thinks they're Brunelleschi building the Duomo because someone at a trade show told them they could seem like the smartest guy in the room when they're talking to a client . Once again, I could be wrong, but I've worked for a lot of people who waste a lot of time solving problems that didn't exist by replacing them with multiple, more vexing problems.
Say what you will but I love the open warehouse for storing things/ building components, building your rooms as you want, and protection from the rain as you build. Also the extra room for roof and wall insulation.
Thoroughly agree with you Chris . I’m in Australia and the “ smartness “ is bullshit as far as I’m concerned - I’ve worked in the building industry for 40 odd years and seen some dreadful things . As you say , basically all in the goal of “ another dollar for me “ .
At $250/sqft I think this construction is WAY out of the price range that most people would consider affordable... that's $600,000 to build a 2400 sqft house (plus the lot, I assume). What I'd like to see is a focus on how to build efficiently for HALF that much. Show me you can build an efficient house for $125/sqft and people will take notice. That, or you need to start talking about the cost of builds in two stages, the first being the structure and the second being the interior finishing. I imagine a lot of the cost in these custom homes is related to high-end finishing, and that is reducing the marketability of all this high efficiency engineering and architecture. If every house I see with cool "efficient" engineering is a +$1 million build it has no relevance to the general public.
Too true. And, being a builder who is trying to tool up for this sort of thing, I can say that the market for it is exclusively people with enough money to want to spend it virtue signalling. The costs of housing are already too high, and the barrier to entry too steep for most people. ( a 25 year mortgage for two people working seems like an awful lot to pay for a house)
You hit the nail on the head. We are in the process of selecting a builder and dealing with the bank, 250 a sqft wont even appraise for the loan we need. Im assuming he only builds for people with endless money and dont use banks. Id love to see Matt do a build that reasonably priced per sqft.
I think much of the cost of building is in finishing work as well as the type of Windows used if we were to go back two smaller windows and exterior window covers I believe the envelope would be much cheaper
I agreed with what you said but I also believe We As Americans have gotten accustomed to homes big enough to play racquetball in.. the reality is blue color houses should it be blue colored priced.. which means blue color sized.. if there's a place that you should spend money to be economical it's in insulation the long-term 25-year or better expectations
I agree, but as a simple DIY guy I don't have much of the vocabulary he's using. I would benefit more from some brief additional illustration, or text notes explains what was just mentioned/discussed.
The jacks/trimmers should run continuous to the header. Split jacks/trimmers introduce another hinge point to the wall and may cause issues in seismic and high wind areas.
I'm a designer and builder. I love what I do, but sometimes feel interior when I watch your videos. Bottom line is I love your work, and I know I am capable of out as well, but in my market we are lucky to get the build even if we come in around 135-150/ft. I know there is the occasional exception around here, but like said in other comments, 250/ft is not affordable or economical. I'm about to start my own modest build and it will come in at I'm guessing around 85/ft. I'm doing most of my labor so that I can afford things like polyiso outside, etc. Bottom line is that this is nice, but what can you do on a real person's budget?
Totally agree. These guys make killer money. I built a home in 2010 for 74 a foot. I've never had anyone want to spend 150....and materials even higher now!!
I appreciate your videos just some questions on this one. Not sure why you need 2 x 6 walls in a garage that most times does not get insulated. Lvl header over a 3' window? Could have been a 2 x 6. What is the cost of the "header clip" I presume more than a stud? Is a large part of the cost the extra insulation and HVAC systems? What is the trade how long does that house/systems have to last to recoup the cost. I installed a solar radiant hot water heating system in a house that lasted 20 years but once we figured the cost of the system, not to mention just everyday issues, it would have been cheaper to put in a traditional system. Of course we got to look down our noses at the regular people. Thanks for your work
1:53 Do not dry wall your ceiling like this, especially this size. That end seam down the middle is called railroading. Railroading leads to one big crack down the middle of the ceiling. You stack drywall like bricks. ( Offsetting the end seams). Especially in cold regions due to weight of the snow on the roof. Trusses move with load. I have one customer who did this and calls me every year to come and repair the gap that has cracked open. If you are going to do this doubleup the truss bottom stud and put an expansion joint in. Also if you're putting storage above your garage use at LEAST 2x6 trusses. 2x4 trusses will not hold weight and your nice finished ceiling will be cracking every time you walk up there.
Brian is correct about truss movement W/snow load and W/ temp change. Wood is a natural substance and thus it expands & contracts W/heat & cold. The suggestion to put in an expansion joint should be code requirement. I know, my ceiling drywall tells me every year. Engineered trusses are fine to use, just install them correctly, knowing they will move.
brian b , I did see a part of the video that it looked like they put furn strips tied to the bottom of trusses! Would this in any way stop what your talking about ?
@@craigberube9890 I saw the furring strips you were talking about. Those are to disconnect the drywall from the truss for insulation value. Less conductive energy is allowed to transfer from the truss to the sheet. Unfortunately when you nail strips to a truss and then hang the rock it moves even worse. Therefore amplifying the problem..
I like using 1" foam on the outside, because it goes over all framing members which doubles the insulation value in those areas, and then you can also use 2x4 framing to get your 20 r-value.
I feel like people are missing a few points. 1) A lot of the stuff being done here is "cutting edge" building science. You don't have to incorporate everything they do into a build. I feel like for people that can afford it, great. If you can't, here are some ideas for how this stuff works and how you may incorporate parts of it into your build or at least understand how all of these choices impact the end result. 2) The point of advanced framing isn't just to cut down on the amount of money spent on framing. It's also to eliminate the number of vertical studs in an exterior wall. Every one of those studs (including the extra jack stud replaced by the hanger everyone seems so upset about) is a place you can't have thicker insulation. Very roughly, for a 40' long exterior wall you'd have 10 more studs with traditional framing. That's almost an extra 2' wide section of that wall insulated at only R5. These builds he's doing are higher end and all about pushing the envelope of efficiency. If you want a cookie cutter house, there are plenty out there. 3) Lastly, I get it, you've been framing for 100 years and this isn't the way you learned to do it. Guess what, we also don't use asbestos or lead paint anymore. If we didn't constantly try to improve things, we'd all still be living in mud huts. More than anything, I appreciate the advancement of building sciences and the help in understanding how these all impact homes being built. We've got all these new materials and understanding of the physics (that's why building codes are updated) and yet people seem to be stuck trying to figure out how to make all of this new technology makes things the way they always have.
THANK YOU SIR!!! I could not have stated it better, everyone concerns themselves with negative aspects, instead of taking the learning concepts out of his. I can go about my business and not share anything, I share so that we may all get better, thank you again
I'm noticing at 4:18 there's a ventilation channel in each bay that goes to the outside, is this a newer thing or is there channeling you can add while insulating that space to avoid over ventilating your house?
I'm a fan of 24" framing. But one reason I keep double top plates is that you can still use standard stud lengths and drywall for 8'1" and 9'1" wall heights.
Yea, plus you end up with a continuous plate which is kind of critical in terms of transferring diaphragm shear to the shear wall - definitely helpful for the structural engineer so that you don't need to strap every splice in a plate...
Foam core sheathing is like using foam as a shim. The shear strength of a wall is partly due to sheathing contact with framing members. In new construction, this may not be a problem, but in time, wind loads, temperature extremes and wood movement will challenge the "through the foam" attachments. 24" on center framing is also less effective at reducing noise transmission, for the same reasons as guitars are built with minimal bracing on the sounding boards. These houses may be efficient on paper, but they have not been tested by sufficient Time and Nature to be promoted as good long term structural investments. Insects love foam for tunneling!
Question for framers and installers. I've found 24" of space between studs to be too much when installing cabinets and shelves. Has anyone run into problems of not being to find a stud? When I gutted my kitchen I made sure to put up backers of 2x4s behind the drywall where I knew I'd be putting any cabinets. I also found putting recepticles in where I needed them was harder. There wasn't always a stud there where I needed it. I ended up doing the same thing.
Regarding energy vs insulation. Most codes in US and Canada will require indoor ventilation air change of approx 1/2 the indoor volume per hour. This means you have to heat or cool that much air every hour, except when the weather is moderate temperature. Therefore at some point money is being wasted in overinsulating these houses. Also attempting to make them super air tight can make them dangerous if one of the systems fail.
Zip System is the best thing that has happened to exterior sheeting. Laying and applying Tyvek on a windy day was my least favorite thing to do when I used to frame.
Very nice walk thru and explanation👍 It looks like an improvement over traditional methods. I would like to see a video on how to build a house where you don’t need to put as much insulation from the environment because it is designed to work with nature instead of insulating from it.
Interesting talking about the header pocket and jacks- our local inspectors here in Ontario, Canada won’t allow split jacks or a trimmer on the flat below the lvl headers. their thinking is faults with both pivot points and shrinking/compression of the flat trimmer.
greatjob Matt bring this architect onboard to break this eloquently into detail, i am wondering what this 2400 sq. framing job cost now (materials/labor) and then after the insulation, approx. number you think you can give? wana compare it to my new builder cookie cutter cost. thanks matt!
I have built a few houses in my day, and done several remodels including additions. I am no expert, but I don't see the savings with the 24"O.C. framing. Granted, it was a few years ago, but I think my average price per square foot for 2x4/2x6 was around $120-$135... Nothing revolutionary, mostly ply+osb sheeting, studs 16" O.C., tyvek whether, batt insl, and sheetrock. Great video but maybe I missed the point of the 24" framing. Also, I have always used a double top-plate, it's way easier to join wall corners and plumb, plus added space for wallboard attachment & top-nailing.
Yeah i didn't really understand much from the video either but what my guess was they're saying it's mostly insulation they're doing 24" oc since wood has less insulation? Anyways I'm just framing some non load bearing walls and the more I'm thinking about it it does seem silly for me at least to frame 16" oc just to hold some drywall.
For energy modeling 24” OC minimizes thermal bridging and improve the the R value of the wall. Less material, more energy efficient. The difference between 16” OC can improve the insulation effectiveness by roughly 10-15%
I like more of Steve each time. Would love to have some engineers calculate energy savings when using this insulated sheathing outside. It's not cheap here. Would like to show clients a video that can explain just how long before the sheathing pays off and starts keeping more money in their bank..
I usually enjoy Matt's videos but I would like to point out, as can be clearly observed at the 2:55 mark: the way the window header is framed wouldn't be acceptable here in Canada. The cripples have to go all the way through under the header/ lintel and the bottom plate that holds the 2, or sometimes 3 header materials together, in between to prevent future issues due to surface shrinkage.
Chris Jackson same here. The true test with anything is time. Traditional framing has stood the test of time. I see a lot of problems in the future. Not a fan of zip either. The price of hiring a architect and then the slower pace of building it bc the workers aren’t as familiar with it far exceeds any money saved by material costs. Should be called low cost framing. Calling it advanced framing is misleading.
Around here its about 250$ a square foot, at the cheap end. And both builders building that cheap went bankrupt in the last year. But that's canadian dollars, and in a stupid region. I gave up housebuilding. Only millionaires can afford it, the pay for the workers is not up to par with the risks and effort involved, and the government is a bitch to deal with. I only build houses for repeat customers, and mostly i just build industrial and commercial buildings now.
My thought too. Here in Michigan, new construction starts under $100/sq ft. A new build high quality finishes (hardwood, solid surface counters, etc) will sell for $200/sq ft. Not a lot of homes in this area at $250/sq foot.. that's crazy
He is in Austin, TX, which is an expensive city. Its a growing city, especially for young professionals, but the city is very small in general and is overcrowded. And to me, idk why the housing market is so expensive there compared to other major Texas cities
I literally wasn't aware that Architects have to the framing but I have still covered this topic to accompany me with this field so that when I go to University, I`ll be ahead of the others.
That might not be expensive for what you get but, I more north Utah and we get houses are code built with r 20 + walls and r 49 + attic spaces for about half the cost of what he is doing.
I'll agree that it's expensive. Sure doesn't sound like commodity pricing. However, a wall with R20 cavity insulation, minimal air sealing, and to exterior insulation is going to yield a wall that's less than R10 effective.
great vid-- guys....so i need clarification....is better for strength and savings to use a basic 2x4 stud and go 16 OC OR 2x6 and go 24 OC?....i wld think it cheaper on labor to do 24oc and the 2x6 shldnt cost so much more, thanks matt!
16 on center versus 24 on center has little to do with 2x4 or 2x6 wall framing. Most moderate to cold climates now require 2x6 walls to achieve an r21 minimum insulation package on the wall system. That's typically why you see 2x6 walls nowadays. Model energy codes getting more and more stringent as the years go by
Great discussion on a very interesting topic. It would’ve been better to have close-ups of the topics mentioned. I.e. header hanger, trusses on top of studs etc.
I'm just wondering why they broke up the continuous trimmer with that bottom plate causing a point for the wood to possibly squish in the future. Also up here in canada we personally tend to put the header directly onto the trimmer for direct load transfer and simply stick the top sill between the trimmers.
Simple question: will 2x4 wall studs spaced on 24” on center on exterior walls carry the load on a two story first floor or would I need to beaf up the first floor wall framing to 16” on center?
Its all going to depend on the treatment they give the seams for the interior partition walls. One could add some acoustic caulk on the top plates but well taped drywall joints will make it similar in sealing to every other typical american standard home. Except this one will actually be efficient
I'm asking because when I build homes I'm not allowed to do it this way because they say that the sound waves travels with the drywall into the next room. I want to do it this way so I'm wondering if what they say is bullshit...
@@oGcs0ber I would say the difference is negligible. The only way to truly isolate is with air space, mass, and floating rooms - i.e. recording studio construction. I can't see that being practical for residential construction. Resonance will happen through drywall and framing regardless of how you detail it IMO.
@@oGcs0ber Are you building in Sweden or the USA? Either way you may find this interesting. USG has some great resources for learning about sound control in partition design. www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/design-studio.html
Question: Why don’t people use something like prosoco r guard or some other fluid applied wrb for flash and fill wall/roof assemblies instead of flashing with cc foam which costs an arm and leg even at 1”? It would be WAY cheaper and just as air, water tight, and safe no?
You're only looking above the window, and the header is supporting the trusses. The window. Was it designed for 16" centers? I don't build, and the reason that I like home improvements is that by about the third try I can get close, but it looks like that window adds complexity having to frame not only around it, but then to integrate it back into those two foot centers. Which are doubled 2X6X10 footers. Expensive lumber, and you have to pay twice. I suppose that can be balanced somewhat by the non load bearing walls. The flexibility of choosing any floor design is a major plus. Imagine having a maze to reach the room that you hide your weed in. Just kidding. That's the mother in law's room.
Are the split cripples allowed by the local Building Codes? The National Building Code of Canada required that the cripple extend from the bottom plate to underside of header. Its great to see the high heal truss being widely adopted. A lot of builders are starting to run their sheathing right up to the underside of the top chord then down the wall to get a very solid connection between the truss and the wall. Have you ever practiced this @ArrowBuilding?
I’ve been building for close to 30 yrs and there are a number of things I see wrong just from this video. Everyone trying to reinvent the wheel and failing at it.
Matt: on your Build Network channel videos. The Ads could use some better tuning. Basically your ads cut in between mid-sentences, and the ad background music is louder than the video presenters. However it would more pleasant to just have your video presenter discuss the products and include links to advertisers websites. For one, your viewers are less likely to skip ads. Here is the video I am referring to: buildshownetwork.com/blogs/789 Its your video presentations that demonstrate products is how products get sold. You demonstrated Adv. Tech: I am an Adv. Tech consumer, You demonstrated the ZIP wall, I am a Zip wall consumer. Your videos get me more interested in products than any 10 to 20 sec inserted ad. Since you have videos on Adv tech, Zip and other products link to those for your advertisers so customers can get more details instead of a 10 to 15 sec ad inserted. Most of your projects and fellow builders use ZIP & Adv. Tech so it should be too hard to mention them. Perhaps adding some text overlays at the beginning of each video listing the advertiser products used in the project. Example: Spring Valley home (New England region). 3/4" AdvanceTech Floors Zip walls R-6 sheating Marvin casement windows Model ??? with U: 0.?? and SHGC: 0.?? Zip Stretch Tape for window sill sealing. When presenting a product insert text overlay about the product being shown at the bottom so viewers can get the correct product name & model. This way your doing in video advertising and consumers will have some details about the products. BTW: not trying to nit-pick your methods just giving you some suggestions that I think your advertisers will benefit from.
Hi Matt, I know that I live in a part of the country with super low cost of living but $600k for a 2400 sq ft. House seems OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive to me. I can’t imagine paying over $300k for 2200-2800 sq. ft. but I want to buy/build a high performance house sometime in the next decade. That’s the problem with these homes, they’re so far outside of a normal persons price range.... Did I somehow misunderstand what you were saying?
Will I have done Certified Passive Houses for $180 sq ft - there is quite possibly a builder in your area with some slight modifications to their typical build that can produce a great home for you.
Costs vary regionally. The same house built in my city would be about 600k. I built my own (and i do this professionally) and had to spend 550k CDN all in. In the town next door i could build the same house for about 300K. The difference is the approval process, and changes caused midway through by the building department. As well as the lot cost, soil conditions, and weather conditions. People throwing around low numbers for a net zero house aren't exactly full of poop, but are not representative of the majority of houses. A builder can make a cheap house, that is of good quality, only if they are good, have cheap labor, have a good production chain to maximize specialization and minimize costs, and above all else, have a customer who doesn't make changes and add things as it goes along. Net zero houses cost more, full stop. Some people are very good at building them however.
@@hosmerhomeboy Net zero homes are tied to region very much - some places the PV system will pay for itself in less than 5 years, then the favor is in your pocket. Yes a Net Zero initially costs more, because you are buying more - but it starts there, it doesn't have to finish there.
Hi Steve, thanks, I didn’t realize that was actually you responding. I really like all of the framing/assembly efficiencies you pointed out. I live in upstate SC, but I’ve lived in NH and MA so I understand the regional differences in price. Here’s to hoping that I can find a builder half as passionate about energy efficiency and general efficiency as you guys are!!
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 True though that may be, most houses people build already cost about as much as they can afford. I have my misgivings about adding any costs onto any build, but i can see which way the wind is blowing. I already mostly build a step 3, and often a step 4. It is do able, as is a step five. There are some things with a five that i am uncomfortable with, and some things related to local building departments enforcement in relation to these things too. I will happily build step five houses, and be glad that the additional certification and techniques required will keep out the competition.
I wish you’d talk about horizontal sheathing. I’ve always heard people say horizontal is “the wrong way” to put sheathing on because it’s “weaker” in the horizontal position, and I’ve seen a few of your videos with it!
Note this one is horizontally blocked at the seams. I want to say the difference when blocked is negligible. I have had this conversation with structural engineers. I will revisit it for clarification/confirmation
Horizontal sheathing is the right way and only way.. if u read the building code the arrow on sheathing is a strength axis which needs to be perpendicular to the structural members. Sheathing is way weaker vertically, i can snap it in half
Code requires Builders to default to the manufacturer specifications. Most sheathing manufacturers require horizontal installation in their specs but not all
Matt, does this type of construction transfer to regions with hurricanes as well? Ie could you zip the outside and span this far in Florida? This seems like such a great method of construction. I've followed you for some time and seen the videos where you recommend closing the house and conditioning the space during construction, do they condition this space or is it just enclosed? Also, in this build the mechanical room is downstairs so it seems like it would be simple enough to install the mechanicals before internal framing etc.
Suspect that well placed load bearing interior walls would help in strong wind conditions. This example offers little in the sense of lateral and torsion stiffness. Additionally, you don’t need as much thermal insulation in Florida. That in turn can inform an economic thickness of the exterior walls. Might be framing isn’t the best choice in hurricane prone regions altogether. Just my take as an architect, not US based.
@@HeadPack I believe most all construction here has concrete exterior walls. In my homes case, built early 80's there is stucco, wood cladding, block wall, furring strip and drywall. That's it.... No insulation. Other than air... While we don't need to keep cold pit, it would be nice to keep the heat out and cold in... :)
Yes, there would be issues. But the most important element is to get a continuous connections from foundation to roof... hurricane clips tying trusses directly to studs ... roof sheathing connectors actually penetrating into trusses rather than being accidentally offset just enough to miss them. I've seen FL houses where whole rows of roof sheathing nailings completely missed the truss below... Finally, if using gable trusses make sure they are properly braced.
Great episode. It’s good to see that passive house elements can be incorporated into a lower budget house. Are you aware of any building science focused builders in the Chattanooga TN area? I’m looking to build there in the near future and would be interested to know if you recommend anyone in that area.
I don't know anything about a builder in your area, but if you're interested in elements being incorporated at a budget, check iowanest.com. They did a great job of making a net-zero home on conventional budget. Pretty neat project.
Triple glaze windows --- What brand did he use. How common and easy are they to get. What was the logic / decision process in deciding to go from double glaze to triple glaze.
How does brace wall work on a big open space like this. I'm used to using interior walls to assist with brace wall calculations per Residential building code.
Its pretty simple, its a pole barn build, One big roof and outside walls... Then build what ever you want on the inside. Its simple and has been done for a while, people are building houses out of pole barns all the time.
I'm guessing they had stamped engineering drawings on this project. Going from memory here, by IRC 2015 you can't go more than 24' between braced wall lines. But you can do anything if an engineer will stamp it.
I believe many of the butt joints will fall over interior partitions once those are built. This house is going to have a hallway running down the middle of it. There are earlier videos about it. You might want to check them out.
Are the sheets of sheetrock placed in the order that they are on purpose because that is where the interior walls will land? The aligned but joints has my OCD on fire right now!
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Great project! I'm curious about sound insulation between partitions, because of that common ceiling already built before framing of the inside walls. Was that considered by Steve in his design? Thanks for the video
And you should also be concerned about all the cracks in your dry wall. Especially in the ceiling seams The only way to stop the cracking will be to remove the ALL the drywall and replace it with traditional framing. Don't get me wrong I make money doing dry while repairs I love advance framing. The more advanced framing means the more work I have.
Double jacks are the way to go and required over 4 ft. Split the 2nd set. Why are the trusses stacked on wall framing. Sure you can use the truss lock screws easier. But it looks terribly wrong.
matt risinger you could also put your header the other way so the wood faces the inside of the garage that way the drywallers will love you more .and your framers can put insulation between the header and the sheeting outside.
Love the videos matt. Can't buy zip in my location Canada. Would love to see a video on what you recommend for insulation and sheathing using the most basic supplies available.
Steel is awful from an insulation perspective (it conducts pretty well compared to all other building materials) unless you intend to put all your insulation on the outside which will make it more complicated and expensive...
Personally I find issues with subpar lumber grading selection more often than framing design and planning. The rafters shown in this video are knotty everywhere! Wood with knots has nominal compression withstanding characteristics.. stack it like bricks it supports weight wonderfully... use it as a long free standing brace?.. -better not. ( even one large knot in one side mid length and it will bow, contort, flex etc when bearing load). -but knots attribute to poor tensil strength... never safe as running the lower rafter ties where tensile draw is pulling constantly!
i'd like to see the hvac plan for this house. judging from the video the mechanicals would be in the atic. the supplies and returns in the ceiling. as an hvac contractor with ceiling supply air i prefer return air low to the ground to avoid temperature stratification.
Interesting idea to rock the lid before framing the non-bearing interior walls. Seems like a pain to buzz 5/8” off all the studs but maybe worth it for an uninterrupted ceiling assembly.
Advanced framing just means more cracks in your drywall. Especially in the ceilings. As a drywall repairman who makes money off of people's mistakes. I love advance framing
I only wish I could build a house where $$$ is no object. Zip with 1 inch of bonded foam is $100 sheet or more. I always appreciate their videos, I just wish they would do a few on builds people who aren’t millionaires could actually afford to build
I'd like to understand the choice of using header hangers - has to cost more in labor/materials than an extra piece of lumber. And creates issues when flashing windows eetc
Header hangers eliminate the need for additional framing thus preventing unnecessary thermal bridging. For every window you have, the additional framing will add up and reduce the overall energy performance of the house.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb I agree, that's what I used to think until I took a building science course. You would be surprised at how much it reduces building performance. If you were to do that on a 2 story house it adds to be a significant loss.
I always assumed most of the stuff in your videos was really expensive but now it sounds like we have a floor. It sounds like what you think of is reasonably priced is $250 per square foot 1 year ago which I'm sure gas gone up today. I still think this stuff is interesting but now I know most of the things you're showing me are going to be unreasonably priced and way out of range for 90% of the population and definitely me.
2:50 "24" OC framing, right? All the studs align with the trusses up above." Camera pans up... studs and trusses NOT aligned, and studs do not look like they're spaced at 24" OC.
@@77Avadon77 double top plate removes that concern or at least it does for our engineer and inspector ( we live in a high snow load and just a 90 mph wind load area).
@@77Avadon77 The load is low. This is not a problem. You don't have to fix problems that is not there. I see this a lot in US, buildings. Blocking, why? They do nothing if you have OSB on the walls. Also i see 3 nails when u only need 2, or lot of nails /screws very close. All this is because you are afraid, and or don't know what can bee done.
In the garage space the studs misalign by 1.5”. All of your eyes are correct. The reason for the shift is the zip r (that is 1.5”) on the garage to house wall. The zip r creates an air barrier between the bad garage air and the liveable space. However the roof sheeting continues on through this point. We could have shifted the layout but wall sheathing cuts would have been 1.5” less. So code and engineering allows for a small offset. We take advantage of this allowance and don’t alter our roof sheathing layout.
I always thought "Good Bones" refers to the architecture and layout, not the framing construction, meaning that it lends well to being renovated, since little to no walls would need to be moved or removed. I guess I learned something today.
That much span using trusses only worries me, the open area is awesome though. I would want some steel beams up there and might as well use a steel building Idk. Do you guys/gals trust trusses this much?
I definitely trust trusses that much. Their software is fantastic and puts in several factors of safety. The fact that you can get a clear span of that distance is common place. I just got a quote on a scissor truss system that spans 65'. It is cheaper to run standard trusses with those than metal trusses and frame out the center. You need to be careful installing them, but once they are in, they are things of beauty.
Video shooter needs to follow the conversation and point at what is being discussed rather than Matt or Steve all the time. Steve is pointing at the header and again at the double top plates, but video isn't following. Then there were a couple awkward zoom-outs rather than just pointing the camera at the subject. Others have pointed this out before, but I really noticed it on this one.
I live in the upper Midwest where it can get very windy and bitter cold. I am curious if the ZIP-R has more than an R-12 option or if you could add a second layer of ZIP-R sheathing to increase the external insulation?
@@radozeman that hits too close to home😞. I lived downtown and later on south mission SF in the early 2000's and loved it. Took my wife back last year and it is a different city. Homeless have taken over and the city smells of it. Glad I got out.
Great build! Is there any concern with truss uplift on the interior walls? How can this be corrected with this type of continuous drywall system? Thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience.
3000sqft under roof a @ under $250/sqft So assume its right at $250x3000sqft=750k! Yikes that is an over the top house. The return on investment is quite a long time there. I fully understand and geek out on the details but we really have to figure out how to make this 3000sqft under roof single level home no more than 3-400k.
That price probably includes a fancy kitchen, fancy trim, fancy flooring and fancy everything else. I'm sure the price goes down to around $150/sqft with less "upgrades".
I'm a truss designer in Winnipeg, MB where it gets cold. We haven't done the little 4" heel height (we call it a 1/4" heel cut) since the 80's. In the 90's we moved to what we called 'standard heel' which was typically 7 1/4" heel and allows R20 over the walls. In the 2000's a 12" heel became prevalent so that we could get R40 over the walls. Since the 2010's, we've been going with a 14" heel, and R50 is the norm now. It's important to note that the National Building Code only stipulates that you need R20 over the exterior walls, with insulation ramping up to R40 within (I believe) 4' or so of that exterior wall as you move toward the center of the truss. This means that legally, trusses in this province only require a 7 1/4" heel cut to achieve this, however the cost to upgrade to a 14" heel is quite small, therefore the vast majority of homebuilders, whether small and custom, or large tract builders, just spec a 14" heel and R50 throughout.
Gotta love Winnipeg, where the meaning of 'it gets cold' gets redefined for those who visit it during the colder half of the year. With respect from the prairies...
I'm building a post frame house. I specified a 16 inch heel on my trusses. I want a full r60 attic. R38 walls r10 slab.
Do you have any links that explain, with illustrations, what you are talking about? Thank you!
I grew up in Winnipeg and have lived in US for 25 years. We have a new house and I am happy to say that current building technology in US is every bit as good as it was in Canada when I left in the'90s. But, California wins for earthquake and fire protection.
I live in a hastily constructed rental unit in Northern Manitoba from 2004, and it has triple pane windows. They still get condensation turning to ice when the exterior temperature is below -30°C (that can last for weeks, it usually goes as low as -40° at some point).
Beautiful 24" OC framing throughout. I love how everything was so well done and so well thought out ... my only issue here has nothing to do with the building, it's almost every time you ask Steve to explain how or why he did something in particular, as he starts to explain you cut to shots around the building instead of showing what Steve is talking about. You raise very good questions that makes your audience perk up and say " Oh yeah .. what about that? and we lean in to see the great craftsmanship and the explanation but instead we are watching a panning shot of something else with Steve doing a voice over. I'm sorry to point this out when everything else is so great, but I'm a film guy and it's all about the visual as well as the explanation.
Thanks for all the great info as always.
Yeah, I noticed those too and it's very distracting. The video takes away the importance of what's being said. Either, they didn't have enough raw footage of the subject being discussed or the editor couldn't care less about what was discussed. BTW, I'm not a film guy ;)
Something you might want to consider:
When you interview someone, you are often encountering someone whose job is not filmmaking, presenting, or public speaking. Most people, even eloquent speakers or great communicators, are out of their usual element when being interviewed in front of a camera. It is relatively easy to cut out audio together into a cohesive whole without anyone noticing. You cannot do this with video without obvious choppy cuts. The solution is b-roll. It presents the interviewee and their message very well without resorting to early UA-cam style jump-cuts. If the camera is showing something else when an interviewee is speaking, you can almost always bet it is to allow the editor to bring the whole thing together smoothly.
@@creamwobbly No clue what you are talking about, but jump cuts in the middle of conversation with a single camera are definitely an inferior filming style, at least aesthetically. And yes, large and profitable UA-cam channels these days have way, way higher production value than they used to, and pretty much every channel that cares even a little bit about quality filming uses multi-camera set ups and b roll, just like every single television show. Early UA-cam obviously was way worse kn quality because it was way less profitable, and thus saw way less investment.
@@leafan101. Most of the multicamera work by UA-camrs creating distracting off angle shots for no real reason. The B-roll is the important stuff that should be done as it adds to the topic being discussed.
2:52 - "All the studs line with the trusses up above."
No, they don't. And it drives me crazy.
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
I've worked for several 'smart builders' and the only thing advanced about what they do is convincing people to pay a premium for less material, a scientifically dubious increase in efficiency, and to have their walls pumped full of a potentially hazardous foam. Maybe I'm a luddite but every 'advanced' project I've ever worked on seemed to focus more on selling the concept of the process than with actually building an elegant, efficient structure. Everyone I've ever worked for that builds like this thinks they're Brunelleschi building the Duomo because someone at a trade show told them they could seem like the smartest guy in the room when they're talking to a client . Once again, I could be wrong, but I've worked for a lot of people who waste a lot of time solving problems that didn't exist by replacing them with multiple, more vexing problems.
Say what you will but I love the open warehouse for storing things/ building components, building your rooms as you want, and protection from the rain as you build. Also the extra room for roof and wall insulation.
Thoroughly agree with you Chris . I’m in Australia and the “ smartness “ is bullshit as far as I’m concerned - I’ve worked in the building industry for 40 odd years and seen some dreadful things . As you say , basically all in the goal of “ another dollar for me “ .
you are telling the truth
I salute you sir for saying something that needed to be said.
Yep
At $250/sqft I think this construction is WAY out of the price range that most people would consider affordable... that's $600,000 to build a 2400 sqft house (plus the lot, I assume). What I'd like to see is a focus on how to build efficiently for HALF that much. Show me you can build an efficient house for $125/sqft and people will take notice.
That, or you need to start talking about the cost of builds in two stages, the first being the structure and the second being the interior finishing. I imagine a lot of the cost in these custom homes is related to high-end finishing, and that is reducing the marketability of all this high efficiency engineering and architecture. If every house I see with cool "efficient" engineering is a +$1 million build it has no relevance to the general public.
Too true. And, being a builder who is trying to tool up for this sort of thing, I can say that the market for it is exclusively people with enough money to want to spend it virtue signalling. The costs of housing are already too high, and the barrier to entry too steep for most people. ( a 25 year mortgage for two people working seems like an awful lot to pay for a house)
You hit the nail on the head. We are in the process of selecting a builder and dealing with the bank, 250 a sqft wont even appraise for the loan we need. Im assuming he only builds for people with endless money and dont use banks. Id love to see Matt do a build that reasonably priced per sqft.
100% agree. It’s as if they are prepping us to believe 250 per is reasonable. It’s not.
I think much of the cost of building is in finishing work as well as the type of Windows used if we were to go back two smaller windows and exterior window covers I believe the envelope would be much cheaper
I agreed with what you said but I also believe We As Americans have gotten accustomed to homes big enough to play racquetball in.. the reality is blue color houses should it be blue colored priced.. which means blue color sized.. if there's a place that you should spend money to be economical it's in insulation the long-term 25-year or better expectations
Steve is an excellent speaker, gives a great spoken "visual" of the concepts. Retired contractor, almost makes me want to get back in. Almost.
Thank you sir!!! Much appreciated
I agree, but as a simple DIY guy I don't have much of the vocabulary he's using. I would benefit more from some brief additional illustration, or text notes explains what was just mentioned/discussed.
The jacks/trimmers should run continuous to the header. Split jacks/trimmers introduce another hinge point to the wall and may cause issues in seismic and high wind areas.
I agree, that added header bracing looks more expensive and complicated than additional jacks
And it's just another flatwise plate to smoosh.
@@johnboy3089 The drywallers will hate it
@@johnouellet8700
I'm complete noob, but didn't they already have additional jacks? Those two in the middle aren't jacks?
Also a noob...I'm here to learn
I'm a designer and builder. I love what I do, but sometimes feel interior when I watch your videos. Bottom line is I love your work, and I know I am capable of out as well, but in my market we are lucky to get the build even if we come in around 135-150/ft. I know there is the occasional exception around here, but like said in other comments, 250/ft is not affordable or economical. I'm about to start my own modest build and it will come in at I'm guessing around 85/ft. I'm doing most of my labor so that I can afford things like polyiso outside, etc. Bottom line is that this is nice, but what can you do on a real person's budget?
Totally agree. These guys make killer money. I built a home in 2010 for 74 a foot. I've never had anyone want to spend 150....and materials even higher now!!
I appreciate your videos just some questions on this one. Not sure why you need 2 x 6 walls in a garage that most times does not get insulated. Lvl header over a 3' window? Could have been a 2 x 6. What is the cost of the "header clip" I presume more than a stud? Is a large part of the cost the extra insulation and HVAC systems? What is the trade how long does that house/systems have to last to recoup the cost. I installed a solar radiant hot water heating system in a house that lasted 20 years but once we figured the cost of the system, not to mention just everyday issues, it would have been cheaper to put in a traditional system. Of course we got to look down our noses at the regular people. Thanks for your work
1:53 Do not dry wall your ceiling like this, especially this size. That end seam down the middle is called railroading.
Railroading leads to one big crack down the middle of the ceiling. You stack drywall like bricks. ( Offsetting the end seams). Especially in cold regions due to weight of the snow on the roof. Trusses move with load.
I have one customer who did this and calls me every year to come and repair the gap that has cracked open. If you are going to do this doubleup the truss bottom stud and put an expansion joint in.
Also if you're putting storage above your garage use at LEAST 2x6 trusses. 2x4 trusses will not hold weight and your nice finished ceiling will be cracking every time you walk up there.
Brian is correct about truss movement W/snow load and W/ temp change. Wood is a natural substance and thus it expands & contracts W/heat & cold. The suggestion to put in an expansion joint should be code requirement. I know, my ceiling drywall tells me every year. Engineered trusses are fine to use, just install them correctly, knowing they will move.
brian b , I did see a part of the video that it looked like they put furn strips tied to the bottom of trusses! Would this in any way stop what your talking about ?
@@craigberube9890 I saw the furring strips you were talking about. Those are to disconnect the drywall from the truss for insulation value. Less conductive energy is allowed to transfer from the truss to the sheet. Unfortunately when you nail strips to a truss and then hang the rock it moves even worse. Therefore amplifying the problem..
*its called advanced drywalling*
The Real Cody Bersick 😂😂😂
I like using 1" foam on the outside, because it goes over all framing members which doubles the insulation value in those areas, and then you can also use 2x4 framing to get your 20 r-value.
I feel like people are missing a few points. 1) A lot of the stuff being done here is "cutting edge" building science. You don't have to incorporate everything they do into a build. I feel like for people that can afford it, great. If you can't, here are some ideas for how this stuff works and how you may incorporate parts of it into your build or at least understand how all of these choices impact the end result. 2) The point of advanced framing isn't just to cut down on the amount of money spent on framing. It's also to eliminate the number of vertical studs in an exterior wall. Every one of those studs (including the extra jack stud replaced by the hanger everyone seems so upset about) is a place you can't have thicker insulation. Very roughly, for a 40' long exterior wall you'd have 10 more studs with traditional framing. That's almost an extra 2' wide section of that wall insulated at only R5. These builds he's doing are higher end and all about pushing the envelope of efficiency. If you want a cookie cutter house, there are plenty out there. 3) Lastly, I get it, you've been framing for 100 years and this isn't the way you learned to do it. Guess what, we also don't use asbestos or lead paint anymore. If we didn't constantly try to improve things, we'd all still be living in mud huts.
More than anything, I appreciate the advancement of building sciences and the help in understanding how these all impact homes being built. We've got all these new materials and understanding of the physics (that's why building codes are updated) and yet people seem to be stuck trying to figure out how to make all of this new technology makes things the way they always have.
THANK YOU SIR!!! I could not have stated it better, everyone concerns themselves with negative aspects, instead of taking the learning concepts out of his. I can go about my business and not share anything, I share so that we may all get better, thank you again
I wish I could get my husband to understand this concept. He just thinks I'm stupid!
I'm noticing at 4:18 there's a ventilation channel in each bay that goes to the outside, is this a newer thing or is there channeling you can add while insulating that space to avoid over ventilating your house?
I'm a fan of 24" framing. But one reason I keep double top plates is that you can still use standard stud lengths and drywall for 8'1" and 9'1" wall heights.
Yea, plus you end up with a continuous plate which is kind of critical in terms of transferring diaphragm shear to the shear wall - definitely helpful for the structural engineer so that you don't need to strap every splice in a plate...
That's true about the height benefit plus, that extra plate helps straighten a wall. Saves time from a framers point of view.
Foam core sheathing is like using foam as a shim. The shear strength of a wall is partly due to sheathing contact with framing members. In new construction, this may not be a problem, but in time, wind loads, temperature extremes and wood movement will challenge the "through the foam" attachments. 24" on center framing is also less effective at reducing noise transmission, for the same reasons as guitars are built with minimal bracing on the sounding boards. These houses may be efficient on paper, but they have not been tested by sufficient Time and Nature to be promoted as good long term structural investments. Insects love foam for tunneling!
Funny, America is one of the last countries to adopt this line of thinking - glad we got you to sort this out for us
Question for framers and installers. I've found 24" of space between studs to be too much when installing cabinets and shelves. Has anyone run into problems of not being to find a stud? When I gutted my kitchen I made sure to put up backers of 2x4s behind the drywall where I knew I'd be putting any cabinets. I also found putting recepticles in where I needed them was harder. There wasn't always a stud there where I needed it. I ended up doing the same thing.
Adding cabinet and a curtain blocking... You're on the right track
Kitchens and bathrooms sometimes call for 16"ctrs. for walls where cabinets will be hung while 24" ctrs. is used for the rest of the house.
Regarding energy vs insulation. Most codes in US and Canada will require indoor ventilation air change of approx 1/2 the indoor volume per hour.
This means you have to heat or cool that much air every hour, except when the weather is moderate temperature.
Therefore at some point money is being wasted in overinsulating these houses.
Also attempting to make them super air tight can make them dangerous if one of the systems fail.
Matt, what's up with the 70s house? Project update, please.
It's why I subscribed. Thought he was going to do a project with updates a few times a week. Obviously I was wrong about that.
Yeah. Slow progress boys. Really started framing in earnest on Friday. New video soon! It’s about to get busy.
Zip System is the best thing that has happened to exterior sheeting. Laying and applying Tyvek on a windy day was my least favorite thing to do when I used to frame.
Its a lot like being on a sailboat
Very nice walk thru and explanation👍 It looks like an improvement over traditional methods. I would like to see a video on how to build a house where you don’t need to put as much insulation from the environment because it is designed to work with nature instead of insulating from it.
Interesting talking about the header pocket and jacks- our local inspectors here in Ontario, Canada won’t allow split jacks or a trimmer on the flat below the lvl headers. their thinking is faults with both pivot points and shrinking/compression of the flat trimmer.
Good example of the rebound-effect, efficiency gains from insulation getting eaten by more and more floorspace.
2:52 Trusses don't quite line up at least in this area...
Trusses are probably oc 16" instead of oc 24" to match the walls. Not an issue with the double top plates.
@@guytech7310 I noticed they are only off by an inch or so. I had the same thoughts with the double top plate.
greatjob Matt bring this architect onboard to break this eloquently into detail, i am wondering what this 2400 sq. framing job cost now (materials/labor) and then after the insulation, approx. number you think you can give? wana compare it to my new builder cookie cutter cost. thanks matt!
I have built a few houses in my day, and done several remodels including additions. I am no expert, but I don't see the savings with the 24"O.C. framing. Granted, it was a few years ago, but I think my average price per square foot for 2x4/2x6 was around $120-$135... Nothing revolutionary, mostly ply+osb sheeting, studs 16" O.C., tyvek whether, batt insl, and sheetrock. Great video but maybe I missed the point of the 24" framing. Also, I have always used a double top-plate, it's way easier to join wall corners and plumb, plus added space for wallboard attachment & top-nailing.
Yeah i didn't really understand much from the video either but what my guess was they're saying it's mostly insulation they're doing 24" oc since wood has less insulation? Anyways I'm just framing some non load bearing walls and the more I'm thinking about it it does seem silly for me at least to frame 16" oc just to hold some drywall.
For energy modeling 24” OC minimizes thermal bridging and improve the the R value of the wall. Less material, more energy efficient. The difference between 16” OC can improve the insulation effectiveness by roughly 10-15%
I like more of Steve each time. Would love to have some engineers calculate energy savings when using this insulated sheathing outside. It's not cheap here. Would like to show clients a video that can explain just how long before the sheathing pays off and starts keeping more money in their bank..
Thank you - my mom always told me I would grow on people lol
I usually enjoy Matt's videos but I would like to point out, as can be clearly observed at the 2:55 mark: the way the window header is framed wouldn't be acceptable here in Canada. The cripples have to go all the way through under the header/ lintel and the bottom plate that holds the 2, or sometimes 3 header materials together, in between to prevent future issues due to surface shrinkage.
Question, with a 24" framing layout, aren't you sacrificing shear strength?
I'd like to know where that's code.
Different states have different codes.
I build on 16 center and thats the way ill continue to do it
In europe we do 24 oc, our houses support big snowloads and we have built this way for over a hundred years.
Yes I agree, 24 on centre is okay for commercial buildings, but not a house,
Been building for nearly 3 decades, this is the cheapest framing I've ever seen for the big price tag. I'm not sold on the system.
Chris Jackson same here. The true test with anything is time. Traditional framing has stood the test of time. I see a lot of problems in the future. Not a fan of zip either. The price of hiring a architect and then the slower pace of building it bc the workers aren’t as familiar with it far exceeds any money saved by material costs. Should be called low cost framing. Calling it advanced framing is misleading.
No informed person IS sold on this.
It's just for chumps buying gold watches from a truck!
If you were, I understand they have ocean front property 😉
@@mr.eastcoastgrow6132 What is the issue with Zip? Are you throwing up Tyvek and letting it flap in the wind?
I agree 100 %
Double window sills are always nice for ornamental trim pieces to attach too. Interesting video
$250/SQ FT? Must be a completely different market where I live then, avg around here is like $110.
Around here its about 250$ a square foot, at the cheap end. And both builders building that cheap went bankrupt in the last year. But that's canadian dollars, and in a stupid region. I gave up housebuilding. Only millionaires can afford it, the pay for the workers is not up to par with the risks and effort involved, and the government is a bitch to deal with.
I only build houses for repeat customers, and mostly i just build industrial and commercial buildings now.
My thought too. Here in Michigan, new construction starts under $100/sq ft. A new build high quality finishes (hardwood, solid surface counters, etc) will sell for $200/sq ft.
Not a lot of homes in this area at $250/sq foot.. that's crazy
250/sqft is stupid expensive in Ohio.
Making this house close to $750K ?? Not a normal house
He is in Austin, TX, which is an expensive city. Its a growing city, especially for young professionals, but the city is very small in general and is overcrowded. And to me, idk why the housing market is so expensive there compared to other major Texas cities
As our structures advance in technology, we may find, a log cabin in the woods is the ultimate advancement.
When did the Golden State Warriors become the Golden State Hermits?
Or better a house made of brick and stone....
Thanks, Matt. Love to see more double-wall "advanced" framing like you were showing a few weeks ago..
I literally wasn't aware that Architects have to the framing but I have still covered this topic to accompany me with this field so that when I go to University, I`ll be ahead of the others.
Above his head , the trusses are 5" away from stud risers! When video starts look at the quality workmanship.
Yeah, my boss would've lost his mind if they weren't lined up perfectly.
Excellent bringing in the energy part with Steve. Thanks for sharing.
That might not be expensive for what you get but, I more north Utah and we get houses are code built with r 20 + walls and r 49 + attic spaces for about half the cost of what he is doing.
That's not true r-value and it's also probably not as airsealed.
I'll agree that it's expensive. Sure doesn't sound like commodity pricing. However, a wall with R20 cavity insulation, minimal air sealing, and to exterior insulation is going to yield a wall that's less than R10 effective.
great vid-- guys....so i need clarification....is better for strength and savings to use a basic 2x4 stud and go 16 OC OR 2x6 and go 24 OC?....i wld think it cheaper on labor to do 24oc and the 2x6 shldnt cost so much more, thanks matt!
16 on center versus 24 on center has little to do with 2x4 or 2x6 wall framing. Most moderate to cold climates now require 2x6 walls to achieve an r21 minimum insulation package on the wall system. That's typically why you see 2x6 walls nowadays. Model energy codes getting more and more stringent as the years go by
Great discussion on a very interesting topic. It would’ve been better to have close-ups of the topics mentioned. I.e. header hanger, trusses on top of studs etc.
Fair comment. We will do better next time.
How do you tie in your partitions to the trusses? Is the blocking installed before ceiling
I'm just wondering why they broke up the continuous trimmer with that bottom plate causing a point for the wood to possibly squish in the future. Also up here in canada we personally tend to put the header directly onto the trimmer for direct load transfer and simply stick the top sill between the trimmers.
Simple question: will 2x4 wall studs spaced on 24” on center on exterior walls carry the load on a two story first floor or would I need to beaf up the first floor wall framing to 16” on center?
Either 16 oc or 2 x 6 studs
Does sound travel easier from room to room when you have a continuous ceiling?
Its all going to depend on the treatment they give the seams for the interior partition walls. One could add some acoustic caulk on the top plates but well taped drywall joints will make it similar in sealing to every other typical american standard home. Except this one will actually be efficient
I'm asking because when I build homes I'm not allowed to do it this way because they say that the sound waves travels with the drywall into the next room. I want to do it this way so I'm wondering if what they say is bullshit...
@@oGcs0ber I would say the difference is negligible. The only way to truly isolate is with air space, mass, and floating rooms - i.e. recording studio construction. I can't see that being practical for residential construction. Resonance will happen through drywall and framing regardless of how you detail it IMO.
@@oGcs0ber Are you building in Sweden or the USA? Either way you may find this interesting. USG has some great resources for learning about sound control in partition design. www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/design-studio.html
“Made In Sweden ‘))
Question: Why don’t people use something like prosoco r guard or some other fluid applied wrb for flash and fill wall/roof assemblies instead of flashing with cc foam which costs an arm and leg even at 1”? It would be WAY cheaper and just as air, water tight, and safe no?
Doesn’t look like the trusses lineup with the studs to me
You're only looking above the window, and the header is supporting the trusses. The window. Was it designed for 16" centers? I don't build, and the reason that I like home improvements is that by about the third try I can get close, but it looks like that window adds complexity having to frame not only around it, but then to integrate it back into those two foot centers. Which are doubled 2X6X10 footers. Expensive lumber, and you have to pay twice.
I suppose that can be balanced somewhat by the non load bearing walls.
The flexibility of choosing any floor design is a major plus. Imagine having a maze to reach the room that you hide your weed in.
Just kidding. That's the mother in law's room.
The double top plate carries the load. if it was a single top plate it would fail.
American Builders haha first thing I saw
Kyle Duffy still sloppy, all layout should line up
According to IRC, its perfectly acceptable to have differing spacing on rafters/trusses from stud spacing if you have a double top plate.
Are the split cripples allowed by the local Building Codes? The National Building Code of Canada required that the cripple extend from the bottom plate to underside of header.
Its great to see the high heal truss being widely adopted. A lot of builders are starting to run their sheathing right up to the underside of the top chord then down the wall to get a very solid connection between the truss and the wall. Have you ever practiced this @ArrowBuilding?
I’ve been building for close to 30 yrs and there are a number of things I see wrong just from this video.
Everyone trying to reinvent the wheel and failing at it.
Please keep us out of suspense.. Please list the "number of things" wrong with this video. That would be helpful if you would explain in more detail..
Mike Eagle totally agree. Futless youngster thinking he’s smarter
Matt: on your Build Network channel videos. The Ads could use some better tuning. Basically your ads cut in between mid-sentences, and the ad background music is louder than the video presenters. However it would more pleasant to just have your video presenter discuss the products and include links to advertisers websites. For one, your viewers are less likely to skip ads. Here is the video I am referring to: buildshownetwork.com/blogs/789
Its your video presentations that demonstrate products is how products get sold. You demonstrated Adv. Tech: I am an Adv. Tech consumer, You demonstrated the ZIP wall, I am a Zip wall consumer. Your videos get me more interested in products than any 10 to 20 sec inserted ad.
Since you have videos on Adv tech, Zip and other products link to those for your advertisers so customers can get more details instead of a 10 to 15 sec ad inserted. Most of your projects and fellow builders use ZIP & Adv. Tech so it should be too hard to mention them. Perhaps adding some text overlays at the beginning of each video listing the advertiser products used in the project. Example:
Spring Valley home (New England region).
3/4" AdvanceTech Floors
Zip walls R-6 sheating
Marvin casement windows Model ??? with U: 0.?? and SHGC: 0.??
Zip Stretch Tape for window sill sealing.
When presenting a product insert text overlay about the product being shown at the bottom so viewers can get the correct product name & model.
This way your doing in video advertising and consumers will have some details about the products.
BTW: not trying to nit-pick your methods just giving you some suggestions that I think your advertisers will benefit from.
Appreciate the feedback. Will review with my team this week!
Hi Matt, I know that I live in a part of the country with super low cost of living but $600k for a 2400 sq ft. House seems OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive to me. I can’t imagine paying over $300k for 2200-2800 sq. ft. but I want to buy/build a high performance house sometime in the next decade. That’s the problem with these homes, they’re so far outside of a normal persons price range.... Did I somehow misunderstand what you were saying?
Will I have done Certified Passive Houses for $180 sq ft - there is quite possibly a builder in your area with some slight modifications to their typical build that can produce a great home for you.
Costs vary regionally. The same house built in my city would be about 600k. I built my own (and i do this professionally) and had to spend 550k CDN all in. In the town next door i could build the same house for about 300K. The difference is the approval process, and changes caused midway through by the building department. As well as the lot cost, soil conditions, and weather conditions.
People throwing around low numbers for a net zero house aren't exactly full of poop, but are not representative of the majority of houses. A builder can make a cheap house, that is of good quality, only if they are good, have cheap labor, have a good production chain to maximize specialization and minimize costs, and above all else, have a customer who doesn't make changes and add things as it goes along.
Net zero houses cost more, full stop. Some people are very good at building them however.
@@hosmerhomeboy Net zero homes are tied to region very much - some places the PV system will pay for itself in less than 5 years, then the favor is in your pocket. Yes a Net Zero initially costs more, because you are buying more - but it starts there, it doesn't have to finish there.
Hi Steve, thanks, I didn’t realize that was actually you responding. I really like all of the framing/assembly efficiencies you pointed out. I live in upstate SC, but I’ve lived in NH and MA so I understand the regional differences in price. Here’s to hoping that I can find a builder half as passionate about energy efficiency and general efficiency as you guys are!!
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 True though that may be, most houses people build already cost about as much as they can afford. I have my misgivings about adding any costs onto any build, but i can see which way the wind is blowing. I already mostly build a step 3, and often a step 4. It is do able, as is a step five. There are some things with a five that i am uncomfortable with, and some things related to local building departments enforcement in relation to these things too. I will happily build step five houses, and be glad that the additional certification and techniques required will keep out the competition.
I wish you’d talk about horizontal sheathing. I’ve always heard people say horizontal is “the wrong way” to put sheathing on because it’s “weaker” in the horizontal position, and I’ve seen a few of your videos with it!
Note this one is horizontally blocked at the seams. I want to say the difference when blocked is negligible. I have had this conversation with structural engineers. I will revisit it for clarification/confirmation
Horizontal sheathing is the right way and only way.. if u read the building code the arrow on sheathing is a strength axis which needs to be perpendicular to the structural members. Sheathing is way weaker vertically, i can snap it in half
Code requires Builders to default to the manufacturer specifications. Most sheathing manufacturers require horizontal installation in their specs but not all
Most sheathing goes on vertical because the blocking for horizontal adds cost, fouls up roll instalation and interferes with plumbing in 2x4 walls.
Matt, does this type of construction transfer to regions with hurricanes as well? Ie could you zip the outside and span this far in Florida? This seems like such a great method of construction. I've followed you for some time and seen the videos where you recommend closing the house and conditioning the space during construction, do they condition this space or is it just enclosed? Also, in this build the mechanical room is downstairs so it seems like it would be simple enough to install the mechanicals before internal framing etc.
Suspect that well placed load bearing interior walls would help in strong wind conditions. This example offers little in the sense of lateral and torsion stiffness. Additionally, you don’t need as much thermal insulation in Florida. That in turn can inform an economic thickness of the exterior walls. Might be framing isn’t the best choice in hurricane prone regions altogether. Just my take as an architect, not US based.
@@HeadPack I believe most all construction here has concrete exterior walls. In my homes case, built early 80's there is stucco, wood cladding, block wall, furring strip and drywall. That's it.... No insulation. Other than air... While we don't need to keep cold pit, it would be nice to keep the heat out and cold in... :)
Yes, there would be issues. But the most important element is to get a continuous connections from foundation to roof... hurricane clips tying trusses directly to studs ... roof sheathing connectors actually penetrating into trusses rather than being accidentally offset just enough to miss them. I've seen FL houses where whole rows of roof sheathing nailings completely missed the truss below... Finally, if using gable trusses make sure they are properly braced.
Lots of good information, thanks for keeping it around 10 minutes.
Great episode. It’s good to see that passive house elements can be incorporated into a lower budget house. Are you aware of any building science focused builders in the Chattanooga TN area? I’m looking to build there in the near future and would be interested to know if you recommend anyone in that area.
I don't know anything about a builder in your area, but if you're interested in elements being incorporated at a budget, check iowanest.com. They did a great job of making a net-zero home on conventional budget. Pretty neat project.
Ask on www.jlconline.com/. I am sure someone will reply back with some builders or framers in your area. Good luck with your project!
@Joshua Ruby very nice!
This isn't a low budget house.
Triple glaze windows --- What brand did he use. How common and easy are they to get.
What was the logic / decision process in deciding to go from double glaze to triple glaze.
Lots of owners are going with triple glazed these days. Much better sound and temperature insulation. If you can afford it, it's a nice luxury.
There is almost zero reason to use triple glazing in that climate.
Why line up all the drywall butt seams like that? they should be staggered.
Laziness
They are using a trim-tex butt board or rock splicer. They put the butt joints in the bay, not on a framing member, and allow you to do this.
Wondering the same thing. Maybe they’ve taken into account where the interior walls will be framed up? Joints will sit on top of the walls? 🤷♂️
How does brace wall work on a big open space like this. I'm used to using interior walls to assist with brace wall calculations per Residential building code.
Its pretty simple, its a pole barn build, One big roof and outside walls... Then build what ever you want on the inside.
Its simple and has been done for a while, people are building houses out of pole barns all the time.
I'm guessing they had stamped engineering drawings on this project. Going from memory here, by IRC 2015 you can't go more than 24' between braced wall lines. But you can do anything if an engineer will stamp it.
Why are the drywall butt joints railroaded on the ceiling?
@@77Avadon77 They don't have to be aligned perfectly with a doubled top plate.
Lack of babysitting the drywall installer
Charnock Custom Built but good practice though
The drywall joint align over a future wall. This creates the ability to not have a single visible butt joint in the home.
I believe many of the butt joints will fall over interior partitions once those are built. This house is going to have a hallway running down the middle of it. There are earlier videos about it. You might want to check them out.
Steve 👍👍👍
Excellent.
Thanks for the information.
Next up all the draywall joints lined up in the ceiling. What the hell is going on here. 🤦🏻♂️
Are the sheets of sheetrock placed in the order that they are on purpose because that is where the interior walls will land? The aligned but joints has my OCD on fire right now!
Great project! I'm curious about sound insulation between partitions, because of that common ceiling already built before framing of the inside walls. Was that considered by Steve in his design? Thanks for the video
And you should also be concerned about all the cracks in your dry wall.
Especially in the ceiling seams The only way to stop the cracking will be to remove the ALL the drywall and replace it with traditional framing.
Don't get me wrong I make money doing dry while repairs I love advance framing. The more advanced framing means the more work I have.
This video made the most sense... Good work
Jacks not solid to the floor? Can’t do that in my area.
Double jacks are the way to go and required over 4 ft. Split the 2nd set. Why are the trusses stacked on wall framing. Sure you can use the truss lock screws easier. But it looks terribly wrong.
matt risinger you could also put your header the other way so the wood faces the inside of the garage that way the drywallers will love you more .and your framers can put insulation between the header and the sheeting outside.
WRONG!!! Drywall does not move nearly as much as wood - more attachment means more chance of cracking. Header out please!!
Lots of great knowledge from Steve!
Thank you!!
Love the videos matt. Can't buy zip in my location Canada. Would love to see a video on what you recommend for insulation and sheathing using the most basic supplies available.
Why is the sheet rock on the ceiling not staggered ?
its called advanced drywalling
I would guess that the interior walls will add the needed support when installed. Likely will be under the long joints.
The Real Cody Bersick , what makes doing this makes it advanced ?
With the price of lumber these days, would you consider steel framing? Does it matter if you are in different climate zones?
Steel is awful from an insulation perspective (it conducts pretty well compared to all other building materials) unless you intend to put all your insulation on the outside which will make it more complicated and expensive...
Certainly it should be an interior consideration.
Personally I find issues with subpar lumber grading selection more often than framing design and planning.
The rafters shown in this video are knotty everywhere! Wood with knots has nominal compression withstanding characteristics.. stack it like bricks it supports weight wonderfully... use it as a long free standing brace?.. -better not. ( even one large knot in one side mid length and it will bow, contort, flex etc when bearing load). -but knots attribute to poor tensil strength... never safe as running the lower rafter ties where tensile draw is pulling constantly!
Yep, I've seen these manufactured trusses fail. A polished turd is still a turd.
Can you do a video on light duty steel framing?
Love the videos with Steve!
Thanks man - stay tuned in the future - thanks for the kind words
Me too! He’s an amazing man with great wisdom.
How does the structure resist wracking forces? I don’t see any corner braces
What's with the drywall on the ceiling being all lined up
Blain Brazeau yeaaahhh idk 😐 the mud is gonna crack 5 years down the road
@@brandonthompson7075 and your going to see the but joint down the middle.of the room lol
Yeah I know lmao but hey they might know something we don’t? Idk maybe some new material. 🤷🏼♂️
I noticed they used lathe on the ceiling, the boston architect says they use that in his area. I don't know why they use it in MO
@@danonly7 Lathe? looks like drywall to me
i'd like to see the hvac plan for this house. judging from the video the mechanicals would be in the atic. the supplies and returns in the ceiling. as an hvac contractor with ceiling supply air i prefer return air low to the ground to avoid temperature stratification.
All the HVAC is in the conditioned basement. Supply is delivered high and returns are low
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 partion walls are few. have you considered high pressure systems such as unico.
@@tedallen9078 have used for retrofits but never in new construction
I’d love to know what Steve knows
Me too lol!!!
Header hangers? LOVE IT!
What's with the 1x2 furring strips on the bottom of the roof trusses?
Interesting idea to rock the lid before framing the non-bearing interior walls. Seems like a pain to buzz 5/8” off all the studs but maybe worth it for an uninterrupted ceiling assembly.
From an air tightness and blower door test, this approach is superior. For non load bearing interior walls, they should be using metal framing.
Advanced framing just means more cracks in your drywall.
Especially in the ceilings. As a drywall repairman who makes money off of people's mistakes. I love advance framing
I only wish I could build a house where $$$ is no object. Zip with 1 inch of bonded foam is $100 sheet or more. I always appreciate their videos, I just wish they would do a few on builds people who aren’t millionaires could actually afford to build
I'd like to understand the choice of using header hangers - has to cost more in labor/materials than an extra piece of lumber. And creates issues when flashing windows eetc
I was also wondering about that, hangers are expensive
Header hangers eliminate the need for additional framing thus preventing unnecessary thermal bridging. For every window you have, the additional framing will add up and reduce the overall energy performance of the house.
@@charnockcustombuilt9418 Yes, but it's a minuscule difference. A fraction of a percent.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb I agree, that's what I used to think until I took a building science course. You would be surprised at how much it reduces building performance. If you were to do that on a 2 story house it adds to be a significant loss.
I always assumed most of the stuff in your videos was really expensive but now it sounds like we have a floor. It sounds like what you think of is reasonably priced is $250 per square foot 1 year ago which I'm sure gas gone up today. I still think this stuff is interesting but now I know most of the things you're showing me are going to be unreasonably priced and way out of range for 90% of the population and definitely me.
Reminds me of a Morton building. Love the adivice on insulation!
Love your videos. Longtime subscriber, and your content just keeps getting better. Awesome video
Agreed - thank you!!!
Could you insulate the roof? Like deck, insulation, deck, shingles?
2:50 "24" OC framing, right? All the studs align with the trusses up above." Camera pans up... studs and trusses NOT aligned, and studs do not look like they're spaced at 24" OC.
@@77Avadon77 double top plate removes that concern or at least it does for our engineer and inspector ( we live in a high snow load and just a 90 mph wind load area).
@@77Avadon77 No need to do that. You worry over problems that does not exist.
@@77Avadon77 The load is low. This is not a problem. You don't have to fix problems that is not there. I see this a lot in US, buildings. Blocking, why? They do nothing if you have OSB on the walls. Also i see 3 nails when u only need 2, or lot of nails /screws very close. All this is because you are afraid, and or don't know what can bee done.
In the garage space the studs misalign by 1.5”. All of your eyes are correct. The reason for the shift is the zip r (that is 1.5”) on the garage to house wall. The zip r creates an air barrier between the bad garage air and the liveable space. However the roof sheeting continues on through this point. We could have shifted the layout but wall sheathing cuts would have been 1.5” less. So code and engineering allows for a small offset. We take advantage of this allowance and don’t alter our roof sheathing layout.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building Jake, thanks for the explanation, I assumed something like that.
Interesting...I look forward to more videos like this
I always thought "Good Bones" refers to the architecture and layout, not the framing construction, meaning that it lends well to being renovated, since little to no walls would need to be moved or removed.
I guess I learned something today.
That much span using trusses only worries me, the open area is awesome though. I would want some steel beams up there and might as well use a steel building Idk. Do you guys/gals trust trusses this much?
Those trusses are only supporting dead load, not live load. So what you see here is not that uncommon at all.
I definitely trust trusses that much. Their software is fantastic and puts in several factors of safety. The fact that you can get a clear span of that distance is common place. I just got a quote on a scissor truss system that spans 65'. It is cheaper to run standard trusses with those than metal trusses and frame out the center. You need to be careful installing them, but once they are in, they are things of beauty.
Video shooter needs to follow the conversation and point at what is being discussed rather than Matt or Steve all the time. Steve is pointing at the header and again at the double top plates, but video isn't following. Then there were a couple awkward zoom-outs rather than just pointing the camera at the subject. Others have pointed this out before, but I really noticed it on this one.
That is the cleanest job site I have ever seen
The space lost under the roof is enormous.
At least it is well insulated, so you don't need to pay that much money heating it. But i agree, it's a bad trade off for not having any inside beams.
My same thought.. 'advanced framing' but here is entire house of wasted space..
You can easily build another room in all that empty space, plus $250/ft fuck that lol
I live in the upper Midwest where it can get very windy and bitter cold. I am curious if the ZIP-R has more than an R-12 option or if you could add a second layer of ZIP-R sheathing to increase the external insulation?
$250? Great scott!
I don’t like the idea of blown in insulation in the walls. No way that’s not going to settle and leave an in insulated gap at the top.
In Europe, we have evolved to the point where we don't need houses.
Haha yeah, lots of people camping in the big cities.
So proud 🙌😍❤️. One day I hope we can catch up to the European model.. everything is greener on the other side.
@@tysleight, That's cause it's growing over a septic field !!
@@tysleight Oh don't worry San Francisco is working on it 😂
@@radozeman that hits too close to home😞. I lived downtown and later on south mission SF in the early 2000's and loved it. Took my wife back last year and it is a different city. Homeless have taken over and the city smells of it. Glad I got out.
Great build! Is there any concern with truss uplift on the interior walls? How can this be corrected with this type of continuous drywall system? Thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience.
Simpson makes a connector for that - I have done 100's of homes without a problem
Thanks Steve! I appreciate your response. I will look into that product.
@@tonystammler9932 google "Simpson STC" or "Simpson STCT" roof truss clips
3000sqft under roof a @ under $250/sqft So assume its right at $250x3000sqft=750k! Yikes that is an over the top house. The return on investment is quite a long time there. I fully understand and geek out on the details but we really have to figure out how to make this 3000sqft under roof single level home no more than 3-400k.
That price probably includes a fancy kitchen, fancy trim, fancy flooring and fancy everything else. I'm sure the price goes down to around $150/sqft with less "upgrades".
How do you guys nail baseboard up there? Can't tell if the bottom plate is enough for backing from the video