Flash the codes out of it with your diagnostic paper clip. ECT sensor issues are common cause of hard starting. Makes the engine act like the choke is stuck on.
Definitely check codes. If there are none my ford EFI wasn't getting enough voltage to the injectors while cranking which caused a horrendously long cranking time. Check the voltage of the red wire at the injectors while cranking. It needs to be above 9v or you're gonna have a bad toim. That and TIMING was making mine do this as well, mook said she hadn't set hers yet so I would start there.
You can cut fuel supply while cranking by holding the gas pedal to the floor. Try this during cranking to see if it helps. If it does, that would indicate that you're getting rich during cranking and the ECT, as mentioned, is a typical culprit. You can test it with an ohmmeter while heating in a pot of water on the stove, watching for a sudden change in resistance and numbers that don't correlate with the temperature changes.
Just a guess cause I had the same problem years ago , the exhaust system had a collapsed iner pipe and also could be muffler or catylt converter .Happy Birthday 🎉
Happiest Birthday ever to you! I am a 53 year young female and I have always loved working on my vehicles myself until I injured my spine ...to much drama so to make a long story short it really is inspiring to see another young woman who enjoys working on her own vehicles thank you LADY MOOK 😊 and love to your puppy 🐶
Happy birthday, I absolutely love how happy you are. I have been struggling with life for a while now and stumbled on one of your videos and your happiness and positivity has me smiling and feeling happy for the first time in a long time.
Love the video, but i remembered a fairly important tech tip, when you throw out dull razor blades, wrap them with electrical tape, for 2 reasons: it wont slice the garbage bag open, and it helps protect anyone else that handles that garbage bag!
cheap piggy bank from the dollar store is what we use to dispose of them right in the slot ( yes only after I shortened my finger on one laying on the bench )...small kiddy pools , you know the blue walmart plastic ones everyone tosses to the curb after summer for the trash man make excellent coolant containment , engine covers if one sets out side , great to toss jacks , tools jack stands , wood blocks ect in for a recovery mission , toss it on the trailer or rollback in our case , one strap over it , and roll , I have 6 or 8 of them at the shop , also good to catch diesel leaks from a leaking tank , usually free on the side of the road and very handy ... balloons are another good trick (some people use gloves but they are not as versatile) , they can seal off radiators ect when parts are taken apart for a few days , or an idiot like myself looses the fuel cap off my rollback and it's calling for rain ... just some of my stupid things I do maybe one could be useful to someone someday , maybe someone else will add something I may find useful ...
Look into a new TPS and coolant temp sensors. The TPS is on the bottom of the throttle body and cooks over time. I changed mine, along with the coolant temp sensor and it made a HUGE difference in cranking, idle, throttle response and power. Pretty sure it's similar to my 93, engine bay looks familiar anyway.
@@tkjedrey1 Yeah. A lot of these old Ford parts are so cheap, it doesn't hurt too much to throw a little money at it. I just started replacing common issue sensors until I found my issues. Now if my brakes would just magically fix themselves.
also might be worth pulling the idle controller and flushing it out with carb cleaner. when those get gummy it can start hard. Supposed to go full open when cranking, but if its got gak in there it can't move properly.
Yup Coolant temp sensor. When it goes bad the ECU defaults to a leaner mixture for running, so it saves your cats, but makes starting hard, and less power at WOT.
Check the grounds, voltage drop test during cranking would be the procedure. Just inspect, clean them; bare clean metal. The pcm has a ground with a connector in it going to the battery, check it. Look for an orange ground at the rear of the intake. Ground from batt to fender. Ground to block. Clean connections at the battery. Check for batt acid creeping down the wires, cut back to clean copper. Give all the grounds some love. I’ve repaired many 80’s and 90’s Fords by simply addressing the grounds. often after people have changed every part they found! Imagine the greedy starter might be hogging the ground in your case, all electronics end up inaccurate during cranking.
Injector hanging up and bleeding off your pressure before startup is where I would start. Happy Birthday, you still look like a 15 year old and that will be a blessing later on.
Your injectors are rusted up and it's running dead lean under load. Cruise at "closed loop" EFI it will run OK but it will lack power under moderate acceleration (and fall on its face towing) when it goes to "open loop" and the ECU can't/won't compensate for the restricted injectors. (That first generation EFI is very crude compared to what we have today.) If the truck spent any time sitting with garbage modern "gasohol", I can guarantee the injectors are rusted up. That's why the sparkplugs look "burned white". It's lean. I have a 1990 F150 (240k miles, 2nd motor, 2nd tranny, same generation as the '89) and chased my tail for over a year, trying everything, before a long talk with an old hand mechanic convinced me it was worth the expense. Fixed it. Done. Tows like a champ now. Also, double check that the PVC vent hose is connected to the manifold (passenger rear valve cover). If it's off, the ECU can't compensate for the air entry outside of the throttle (TPS sensor) and it goes lean because you're getting more air than the TPS says you should be getting. More importantly, make sure the "mod" (there's a TPS on this, I think) has been done to relocate the hose connector on the manifold to the center. (Otherwise, you will kill the #8 cylinder with the oil vapor concentrating into that cylinder as the motor ages and blowby increases.) Finally, those trucks have spongy brakes. I've never been able to get a "firm" pedal. Also, if the truck has rear ABS, the ABS valve is notorious for failing and giving you a "no-brake" condition or spongy brakes. I "bypassed" the valve with fittings, plugged the openings, and left it plugged in to avoid the Brake Warning Light. You can try to bleed the valve but it didn't help the spongy brakes. Seriously, I know way more about these trucks than I ever wanted to. Hope this helps.
That’s the way it goes when you’re troubleshooting blind. My first car was a 96’ Chevy blazer. I know waaay more about the 4.3l vortec than I ever thought I would or will ever know about any other Chevy motor
So what fixed it Rob? Did you replace the fuel injectors? Okay Thanks. Your posting is helpful. My 1989 F150 5.0 is doing the same thing as Mooks F150.
@@cliffordkinnear9705 Yes. New injectors fixed it. The old ones were obviously rusty and beyond hope of cleaning. Also replaced all of the injector pigtails while I was at it given how brittle they were. You'll need to pull the top half of the manifold but that center tore head bolt is hard without the right tool(s). Also a good time to do the PVC mod if it hasn't already been done.
Rear brake adjustment: if truck has rear self adjusters that aren’t all rusted up, then go to parking lot, place in reverse go about 5 mph and pump brakes hard two times. Self adjusters will ratchet and adjust. Drive forward and see how pedal height improved. If not sat then repeat. I do this about every 2-3 months on my vehicles.
You always make my day 100% better, when I see a new "Mook" video has been posted, it fills my heart with joy. Thanks for making this old man a very happy fellow. btw, I was a 'mechanic' during my military service 40 years ago.
You'll have a lot easier time loosening fasteners like those on your rear shocks if you loosen the nut instead of the bolt. Small thing people don't think about often, but it makes a massive difference.
Love the truck! I own a 1988 Ford F250 X-tended cab, long bed, with the 7.3 IDI diesel that I'm currently resurrecting. I swapped the motor back in May, and have been slowly doing work on it in my driveway. I hope to have it all finished by the end of October my work schedule has been the slowing factor in getting it done. Finding the time to devote more than a day or a couple of hours has been tough. "Slow and steady wins the race" as the old saying goes.
Just a couple shortcuts I used as a young buck, back in the early 60's. When I pulled the wires off my motor, My moms clothes line was close by so, I took 8 clothes pins off her line, numbered them all one through eight, four right, and four left. Made it very easy putting them back on with no mistakes, LOL.
LOL out of all they crazy things I do and have done , I have never done that one , but I like it , that is a great idea, the old wood ones have the round cut in them it's perfection ! , and really is a K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple stupid) in case someone did not know what that stood for LOL
@@DarkFlamage To be honest, putting clothes pins on spark plug wires, don't have grease on them, if you do, that's why your motor is running bad. I still have the pins in my tool box from 60 years ago. They are not greasy at all and have worked great for years!!!
I like Mook's marble collection. I have a collection of marbles I have found too. Spray paint cans are a good source of collectable glass marbles inside. Some cans come with a steel ball bearing but most have marbles. When I found this out I started cutting open my empty cans for the precious treasure inside.
Clear bottle with clear hose is the way I’ve always bled brakes. Learned it somewhere. Break fluid is a good paint remover, you don’t want that shit all over the place!
My 88 5.0 mustang I have to crank on it a lot to get it to start. If your injectors can’t hold pressure to start the engine it will take longer to start. Everything in the fuel system has to be able to hold the pressure upon starting. You changed everything else except the injectors. Mook is so happy with her truck
Happy birthday, mook. If you're still having extended crank, check your fuel pump relay, it should energize the pump for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system. If it's ok, and you're still having low power, check your timing. Those had aluminium timing gears with plastic teeth, and it would break off and the chain could jump time. That would cause a extended crank and low power output
Mook I truly enjoy your channel! The episode that caught my eye is this one about the 89 f150! I have the same year that I’ve been slowly restoring, It was given to me by one of best friends family after he suddenly passed away. Keep up your adventure!
IAC -Fuel Filter -All O2's -Fuel Press. Regulator -EGR -Fuel Pump Check even though you replaced replaced fuel pump and parts like that because sometimes this sometimes those parts are faulty directly out of Box Just check for specs At minimum
Happy Birthday Mook! 🎉🎂🎉 And to fix the starting issue, I think the injectors need cleaning. Put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and see if that helps. 👍
Happy belated birthday mook I love watching you and Kevin I struggle with anxiety and depression watching your videos helps me a lot please keep up the GREAT WORK
I have a 78 ford pick up "bought new" so I can't help with yours ... Sorry. I love the show and I think you are very easy on the eyes.So I watch all the time.Keep up the good work.
Well done Mook your channel is one of my favorites I love to watch videos about working on vehicles. You are really good at fixing things. I hope you will keep us updated on your truck
Try turning the key on twice before you start it, because if it starts easier, then your fuel pump is weak. You can adjust your drum brake adjusters by backing up and hitting the brakes, then go ahead and back and forth so the adjuster resets your brakes. By doing this you will not adjust them too tight to drag a brake. I would also check those plastic vacuum lines as we had an brand new one that would go through a set of plugs a year because the line melted a hole in them and would suck outside air in. We found it be cause the dealer never did. It is great to see a girl wrench a truck and teach the boys some thing. My daughter was handy with tools when she went to college and fixed a few things for the boys.
I was having similar problems on my 87 f150. Replacing the MAP helped the idle, bit installing a penny on the EGR helped the power and mpg. No check engine lights and no codes.
happy birthday Mook! 🎂 low power on the 302 is possibly plugged muffler or catalytic converter or bad tps or temp sensor as for the long crank check fuel press with a guage can also be bad injectors good luck tracking it down keep up the great videos! 👐
The AIT helped a little. I removed the distributor. My friend removed the cast iron drive gear and spacer using a hydraulic press. There are two pins you have to remove prior to taking the gear off and spacer. The truck was starting to cut out electrically. I removed and replaced the pick up coil after disassembling the distributor. The pick up coil can't be removed with the dist. installed in the engine. Now the truck starts a lot faster! Note: the pick up coil is like a crankshaft trigger sensor, except its mounted on the distributor.
Happy Birthday Mook! Brakes are more important than, acceleration. The suspension works in conjunction with the Brakes to control the truck when you steer. Nicely done Mook! Putting a little blood sweat or tears into any project and not giving up tends to lead to positive results. And You used what you learned from Kevin to try and teach your brother. That is what's all about! 👏 Even though you can't always concentrate, you listened to what you needed to to understand Kevin. Your long crank time may be do to improper commutation between the parts...it is an EFI, and the computer isn't getting the what it needs to function properly.
When you do valve cover gaskets make sure you have an extra long torx T-40 for the center bolt on the upper intake. Check the EGR tube when you do it too. They like to crack. Check the center pivot bushings in the beams. When they go bad they have all kinds of handling issues.
45+year Tech here. Save your back. Either remove the valve cores to let air out of front tires, or remove the front wheels and set it down on a 2x4' under the lower ball joint or rotors. SAVE YOUR BACK!!!
in the 80s I worked for a ford dealer,and repaired many of these. my suggestion is to retro fit a bronze manual tank switcher,if it has 2 tanks,if it only has one,delete the frame mount filter and or filt hsg,(good time to add a delivery pump on frame)but get rid of the factory frame mount filter,housing and or switcher. also look for burnt annealed connections,at the dash electric tank switch and the connector(s)on the tank(s)
@junkyard mook - love your videos - I know you're careful by nature, but please make sure your hair never gets caught by the spinning drive belts...enough said - Keep Up the Great Work!!!
That's funny since my 1986 F150 with a 96 Mustang 5.0 HO could easily smoke late model Vortec powered Chevy Silverados back then and topped out at about 135 mph.
I bought a 88 Ranger that sat for 3 years. Had to replace every relay in it. Check every connection and clean it. I was lucky the fuel pump still worked. I was also lucky that the ECU was still good. Electronic connection cleaner and waterproof non conductive silicon is your best friend. When used properly it fixes a lot of issues.
I have a 93 I paid 300$ for, I have spent 13,000$ on it so far,it’s an awesome rig .so far it has 35” tires ,2” lift ,rebuilt 302 5.0l forged pistons,msd ignition system,bored .040 over,steel crank,351 Windsor cam ,60mm turbo,cherry bomb exhaust and some more stuff,I friggin love it. Needs paint gonna do it with rock guard I think.😜 Diggs should be jacking that truck and blocking it with you.
I see the '89 F-150 was a Texas truck once apon a time. I noticed the blue and white inspection sticker in the window, circa 2012-13. Cool beans! Happy Birthday Mook!
Hey, I don't know where you are on the long crank issue, I just watched this video today. You should hook up a pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if you have pressure drop when after you shut the engine off. Check it on both tanks. If the pressure drops on one tank and not the other, most likely that lift pump has a bad check valve. It's internal to the pump so you would need to get a new one. You could also have a leaking injector dropping fuel pressure with the key off.
You have nice truck there Mook, a few more parts here there, it's a keeper. By the way, Happy Birthday Day 💥 PS, more vids please, major props to you Mook for doing your own vehicle work repairs and replacements. Love your channel.
Hi Mook. It's perfectly normal for some vehicle's to take a little longer to start than others. You could have 2 exact same vehicles off of the Assembly line, and one with take a second or 2 longer to start. I'm a retired Automotive Tech. With over 35 years behind me. I've worked for Chrysler, Ford, and G.M. And all of them had vehicles like these. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the way your truck starts. Many of my Auto. Tech friends tried to check this out, and spent alot of money, and effort to no avail. Great job on your new truck by the way.☺
For the extended cranking time, I would check to see how much slack is in the timing chain. It is not difficult to do, it cost nothing to do and it verifies the engine's ability to generate proper cylinder pressures when spinning over at lower RPM's. I would do this especially if this is a high mileage engine.
The BMAP sensor , the throttle position sensor, the ECT and ACT are the main inputs that the computer uses for cold starting until the engine reaches 160 degrees or above
Be sure to clean the IAC “Idle air control valve” on top of the throttle body. Trust me don’t buy aftermarket ones they are hit and miss. Same with your MAP sensor don’t buy aftermarket ones
Great video! Happy belated birthday. Something I wanted to mention is about the spark plugs. My truck had a terrible idle (sounded like a big cam and smelled like gas) so yesterday I changed the plugs on my 96 F150 (also a 302). I found that 6 of the 8 plugs only had a gap of .040. The reason I bring this up is because the pre-EFI 302 gap should be .044. My 96 in particular is supposed to be .054. The Motorcraft plugs i bought also came gapped at .044. After adjusting the new plugs and installing them my truck starts better, runs smoother, and idles correctly plus it saved me from buying a IAC. While I don't think that is going to solve your starting problem entirely, it may be something to look into as to what gap your 89 with EFI wants and what the gap was that went it. I fully understand it is a pain to pull them back out though. Fuel pump fixed my issue with a long crank.
As for your starting issue. Check your pcv hose. (Back of intake passenger side) had the same issue chased fuel and spark issues. Till I went to put a catch can in and found the cracked pcv hose. Best of luck Kevin and mook.
Does it start faster if you cycle the key 3 times, letting the fuel pump cycle off? If so, the fuel system is bleeding off, probably in the fuel pump module.
Or carbon on the backside of the valves, major concern of early fuel injected Fords. We would walnut blast the valves with a special machine at the dealer.
The problem could be delayed fire in distributer or out of time.You also might want to get some octane booster at Walmart paired with a higher grade of fule. GREAT video, Happy Birthday.
your long cranking issue could be the time it takes to build oil pressure, those systems depend on the oil switch to start fuel pump and power the ignition, also that fuel pressure should run over 60psi, this is why they got a bad rep, several things have to happen before they start. Oh and happy birthday to Mook 🎂🎁😘
Harmonic balancer. Having the same problem with my 89 351w F250. Right manifold was glowing. Was hard start prior to it. I put new cat, cleaned tanks, fuel pump and filter, compression check. Fuel pressure test. Put a timing light on it. Should be at 10 degrees btdc with the spout connector in the harness out. Good luck and happy Birthday Mook
I don't have time to read through all the comments so I'm not sure anyone has suggested it yet but I recently had the same slow starting problem (dirty injectors) with my severely neglected F-150. Run a bottle of Berryman's Fuel system cleaner through the fuel tank. It solved my problem and power wise, woke my truck up too.
I am from MI and to see a F-150 look as good as this truck I am in total shock. I sure hope you folks are putting these incredible trucks on the path to a new life.
A waxed cardboard vegetable box, flattened out is ideal for when you've got to climb into the engine bay to remove something. It's comfortable and hardy enough to use quite a few times before you need to ditch it and get a new one. Broccoli boxes are ideal. .
For the rough starting, check the timing chain, they like to go slack. Also verify ignition timing. If it’s ECC2 there should be a diagnostic port near the driver firewall corner under the hood. If you jump a wire to ground you can count flashes of the check engine light to get codes. How does it start hot? It could be many things like coolant temp sensor, map sensor on its way out, tps, just a lot of things it could be. But for most of them you can grab a meter and test the sensors
Watch Wes Work made an excellent suggestion. Engine Coolant Temp switch is telling the engine the engine is cold. Use your handy code reader, that will tell you what temp the engine thinks it is. If the ECT is reading, engine cold... Then the Computer should activate some type of "cold enrichment". Might even have a solenoid to add additional fuel while cold, basically taking the place of the Choke.
The long crank issue could be because of a bunch of dirty/clogged injectors so I would recommend taking them out and seeing if they are clogged or not spraying right. It could also be a slight compression issue so try throwing a bunch of seafoam into the gas to give it more compression from the oil.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK
I see you survived having a box of tp being thrown at you earlier
Also. Happy birthday mook!!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK!!! :D
BAPPY MIRTHDAY HOOK
Hi Kevin! Can you also notice me? I have been watching you for a week I'm oppsessed with your videos and mooks videos! I love you guys!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK
Highlight of the day! The world needs more Mook!
MOORE MOOK!
She is so freaking cute!
Hey Mook--- love how you said the fuel system is 'iffy' and right over your shoulder the emblem was 'EFI'. LOL
"Sorry to disappoint." Mook, your vids are fun - there is no disappointment! 👍
Flash the codes out of it with your diagnostic paper clip. ECT sensor issues are common cause of hard starting. Makes the engine act like the choke is stuck on.
Mook. Nice to see your own channel. Great!!
Definitely check codes. If there are none my ford EFI wasn't getting enough voltage to the injectors while cranking which caused a horrendously long cranking time. Check the voltage of the red wire at the injectors while cranking. It needs to be above 9v or you're gonna have a bad toim. That and TIMING was making mine do this as well, mook said she hadn't set hers yet so I would start there.
Too many commercials
I'm out.
You can cut fuel supply while cranking by holding the gas pedal to the floor. Try this during cranking to see if it helps. If it does, that would indicate that you're getting rich during cranking and the ECT, as mentioned, is a typical culprit. You can test it with an ohmmeter while heating in a pot of water on the stove, watching for a sudden change in resistance and numbers that don't correlate with the temperature changes.
@@lyndelbeckwith1706 pay for youtube and you won't get any commercials
Best line by Kevin "disappointing but smoothly disappointing."
That's what they call me...
Paint the shocks blue
As an unofficial owner of a '91 F150 XLT Lariat 302 myself, I can totally relate to Kevin's words. Ugh.
But, that clear coat tho.
As a 90s Ford owner, never before have I been so offended by something I completely agree with.
That sounds like something hank hill would say lol
Just a guess cause I had the same problem years ago , the exhaust system had a collapsed iner pipe and also could be muffler or catylt converter .Happy Birthday 🎉
Good point with its lack of power, should put a back pressure tester on it.
I'd ditch the cats for sure on that model truck, it'll have way more power without them
Kevin is the "special tool" well that explains a lot! 😂😂😂😂
Keep up the great work! Love the videos!
Happiest Birthday ever to you! I am a 53 year young female and I have always loved working on my vehicles myself until I injured my spine ...to much drama so to make a long story short it really is inspiring to see another young woman who enjoys working on her own vehicles thank you LADY MOOK 😊 and love to your puppy 🐶
Hope your back doing better
Mook r u how old,oh that is right u r 22 right
@@ronjanke4101 She's 14....just guessing
Happy birthday, I absolutely love how happy you are. I have been struggling with life for a while now and stumbled on one of your videos and your happiness and positivity has me smiling and feeling happy for the first time in a long time.
I agree. Mooks charisma, good nature, and...equipment, are nice.
Kevin seems like a good man as well. They make a good couple.
Mook, you're my personal hero for all the bug and spider breaks. Best part of working on any old car/truck. Happy!!!
Love the video, but i remembered a fairly important tech tip, when you throw out dull razor blades, wrap them with electrical tape, for 2 reasons: it wont slice the garbage bag open, and it helps protect anyone else that handles that garbage bag!
cheap piggy bank from the dollar store is what we use to dispose of them right in the slot ( yes only after I shortened my finger on one laying on the bench )...small kiddy pools , you know the blue walmart plastic ones everyone tosses to the curb after summer for the trash man make excellent coolant containment , engine covers if one sets out side , great to toss jacks , tools jack stands , wood blocks ect in for a recovery mission , toss it on the trailer or rollback in our case , one strap over it , and roll , I have 6 or 8 of them at the shop , also good to catch diesel leaks from a leaking tank , usually free on the side of the road and very handy ... balloons are another good trick (some people use gloves but they are not as versatile) , they can seal off radiators ect when parts are taken apart for a few days , or an idiot like myself looses the fuel cap off my rollback and it's calling for rain ... just some of my stupid things I do maybe one could be useful to someone someday , maybe someone else will add something I may find useful ...
We have specific disposal containers at my workplace for razors so the bums don't cut themselves digging for cans/bottles in the trash for deposit.
Or use a big Miracle Whip or mayonnaise jar once it is empty. Of course clean the jar. The cut a slot in the top and drop them in.
Look into a new TPS and coolant temp sensors. The TPS is on the bottom of the throttle body and cooks over time. I changed mine, along with the coolant temp sensor and it made a HUGE difference in cranking, idle, throttle response and power. Pretty sure it's similar to my 93, engine bay looks familiar anyway.
I agree, I replaced my coolant temp sensor on my 92 and took care of my cranking issue.
@@tkjedrey1 Yeah. A lot of these old Ford parts are so cheap, it doesn't hurt too much to throw a little money at it. I just started replacing common issue sensors until I found my issues. Now if my brakes would just magically fix themselves.
also might be worth pulling the idle controller and flushing it out with carb cleaner. when those get gummy it can start hard. Supposed to go full open when cranking, but if its got gak in there it can't move properly.
Yup
Coolant temp sensor.
When it goes bad the ECU defaults to a leaner mixture for running, so it saves your cats, but makes starting hard, and less power at WOT.
Sorry to say the coolant sensor isnt gonna do that most likely the tps
Mooooooooookk! I am sure I speak for all when i say we miss you, you make me smile and laugh! the world needs more Mook!!!
Check the grounds, voltage drop test during cranking would be the procedure. Just inspect, clean them; bare clean metal. The pcm has a ground with a connector in it going to the battery, check it. Look for an orange ground at the rear of the intake. Ground from batt to fender. Ground to block. Clean connections at the battery. Check for batt acid creeping down the wires, cut back to clean copper. Give all the grounds some love. I’ve repaired many 80’s and 90’s Fords by simply addressing the grounds. often after people have changed every part they found! Imagine the greedy starter might be hogging the ground in your case, all electronics end up inaccurate during cranking.
Injector hanging up and bleeding off your pressure before startup is where I would start. Happy Birthday, you still look like a 15 year old and that will be a blessing later on.
Especially if it starts ok when it hasn't been off too long.
She looks like a 15 yr old. Maybe that's why Kevin likes her.
@@markamcampbell6340 wtf???
@@markamcampbell6340 Keven loves her because mook is a beautiful person on the inside and outside, the whole enchilada.
My 89 started like that changed the computer and it starts great now
Your injectors are rusted up and it's running dead lean under load. Cruise at "closed loop" EFI it will run OK but it will lack power under moderate acceleration (and fall on its face towing) when it goes to "open loop" and the ECU can't/won't compensate for the restricted injectors. (That first generation EFI is very crude compared to what we have today.) If the truck spent any time sitting with garbage modern "gasohol", I can guarantee the injectors are rusted up. That's why the sparkplugs look "burned white". It's lean. I have a 1990 F150 (240k miles, 2nd motor, 2nd tranny, same generation as the '89) and chased my tail for over a year, trying everything, before a long talk with an old hand mechanic convinced me it was worth the expense. Fixed it. Done. Tows like a champ now.
Also, double check that the PVC vent hose is connected to the manifold (passenger rear valve cover). If it's off, the ECU can't compensate for the air entry outside of the throttle (TPS sensor) and it goes lean because you're getting more air than the TPS says you should be getting. More importantly, make sure the "mod" (there's a TPS on this, I think) has been done to relocate the hose connector on the manifold to the center. (Otherwise, you will kill the #8 cylinder with the oil vapor concentrating into that cylinder as the motor ages and blowby increases.)
Finally, those trucks have spongy brakes. I've never been able to get a "firm" pedal. Also, if the truck has rear ABS, the ABS valve is notorious for failing and giving you a "no-brake" condition or spongy brakes. I "bypassed" the valve with fittings, plugged the openings, and left it plugged in to avoid the Brake Warning Light. You can try to bleed the valve but it didn't help the spongy brakes.
Seriously, I know way more about these trucks than I ever wanted to. Hope this helps.
Might be a good opportunity for a video on testing and cleaning injectors
That’s the way it goes when you’re troubleshooting blind. My first car was a 96’ Chevy blazer. I know waaay more about the 4.3l vortec than I ever thought I would or will ever know about any other Chevy motor
So what fixed it Rob? Did you replace the fuel injectors? Okay Thanks. Your posting is helpful. My 1989 F150 5.0 is doing the same thing as Mooks F150.
@@cliffordkinnear9705 Yes. New injectors fixed it. The old ones were obviously rusty and beyond hope of cleaning. Also replaced all of the injector pigtails while I was at it given how brittle they were. You'll need to pull the top half of the manifold but that center tore head bolt is hard without the right tool(s). Also a good time to do the PVC mod if it hasn't already been done.
I like the way you working on your truck please keep up the good work because you are doing an awesome job
We desperately need a "Mook Out of Context" compilation video
I second the motion
🚬🐕
*_That's what Mook said_* mega cut
I third the motion. All in favor say I!
I suggest Mook Moments shirt videos form the out takes from Kevin’s videos.
yes.
One of the best things about watching junkyard digs/mook is the circle of friends and the family members that make this channel possible.
Rear brake adjustment: if truck has rear self adjusters that aren’t all rusted up, then go to parking lot, place in reverse go about 5 mph and pump brakes hard two times. Self adjusters will ratchet and adjust. Drive forward and see how pedal height improved. If not sat then repeat. I do this about every 2-3 months on my vehicles.
Happy Birthday Mook! Keep on teaching Kevin everything he knows!
You always make my day 100% better, when I see a new "Mook" video has been posted, it fills my heart with joy. Thanks for making this old man a very happy fellow. btw, I was a 'mechanic' during my military service 40 years ago.
Is nice to see young people keeping these older trucks alive
Love the way you and Kevin repair all these cars and trucks. Keep up the great work !! Corey from Australia......cheers.
You'll have a lot easier time loosening fasteners like those on your rear shocks if you loosen the nut instead of the bolt. Small thing people don't think about often, but it makes a massive difference.
Love the truck! I own a 1988 Ford F250 X-tended cab, long bed, with the 7.3 IDI diesel that I'm currently resurrecting. I swapped the motor back in May, and have been slowly doing work on it in my driveway. I hope to have it all finished by the end of October my work schedule has been the slowing factor in getting it done. Finding the time to devote more than a day or a couple of hours has been tough. "Slow and steady wins the race" as the old saying goes.
Love how she flashes her sparking beaming smile at the end :D
Just a couple shortcuts I used as a young buck, back in the early 60's. When I pulled the wires off my motor, My moms clothes line was close by so, I took 8 clothes pins off her line, numbered them all one through eight, four right, and four left. Made it very easy putting them back on with no mistakes, LOL.
Great idea, then give her back the greasy clothes pins to used on her freshly washed clothes! 🤣👍👍
LOL out of all they crazy things I do and have done , I have never done that one , but I like it , that is a great idea, the old wood ones have the round cut in them it's perfection ! , and really is a K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple stupid) in case someone did not know what that stood for LOL
@@DarkFlamage To be honest, putting clothes pins on spark plug wires, don't have grease on them, if you do, that's why your motor is running bad. I still have the pins in my tool box from 60 years ago. They are not greasy at all and have worked great for years!!!
@@trybriguy1357 If they are greasy, your valve cover gasket isn't anymore.
@@joer8854 You've got that right!!!
It’s always entertaining to watch you talk to the truck.
I like Mook's marble collection. I have a collection of marbles I have found too. Spray paint cans are a good source of collectable glass marbles inside. Some cans come with a steel ball bearing but most have marbles. When I found this out I started cutting open my empty cans for the precious treasure inside.
I love the dynamic you guys have. So far its all been typical stuff for a 90's era ford truck. keep up the good work
I was hoping for booger. The 89 needs love too. Happy Birthday Mook!
Happy Birthday Mook! Yeah having spark plug wires off will make it run with low power and will screw up the fuel mixture on the oxygen sensors.
Clear bottle with clear hose is the way I’ve always bled brakes. Learned it somewhere. Break fluid is a good paint remover, you don’t want that shit all over the place!
My 88 5.0 mustang I have to crank on it a lot to get it to start. If your injectors can’t hold pressure to start the engine it will take longer to start. Everything in the fuel system has to be able to hold the pressure upon starting. You changed everything else except the injectors. Mook is so happy with her truck
It's been Mooks birthday? Happy birthday Mook! I demand an international holiday where I get 2 months off work.
I believe that 2 needs a 1 in front of it. Go for a full 12
you forgot "with pay"...
Happy birthday, mook. If you're still having extended crank, check your fuel pump relay, it should energize the pump for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system. If it's ok, and you're still having low power, check your timing. Those had aluminium timing gears with plastic teeth, and it would break off and the chain could jump time. That would cause a extended crank and low power output
"I'm an easily distracted person." In other news, the sky is blue and water is wet. It's part of the fun :-)
Water is not wet. Water makes things wet, but water is not wet in of itself. Yeah?
@@MidnightTech Water is liquidic.
Mook I truly enjoy your channel! The episode that caught my eye is this one about the 89 f150! I have the same year that I’ve been slowly restoring, It was given to me by one of best friends family after he suddenly passed away. Keep up your adventure!
🙏 from Texas about your buddy. No doubt he's there every time you work on that F150. Take care, BrandyF.
Good luck on your truck build
IAC
-Fuel Filter
-All O2's
-Fuel Press. Regulator
-EGR
-Fuel Pump Check even though you replaced replaced fuel pump and parts like that because sometimes this sometimes those parts are faulty directly out of Box Just check for specs At minimum
Happy Birthday Mook! 🎉🎂🎉 And to fix the starting issue, I think the injectors need cleaning. Put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and see if that helps. 👍
Hey, Mook actually cussed (a little) 30:37. And as always, a pleasure watching the woman-child do her thing! LoL
Goofiness is hilarious when executed (or edited) properly. Love it!
Isn't that the truth
Happy belated birthday mook I love watching you and Kevin I struggle with anxiety and depression watching your videos helps me a lot please keep up the GREAT WORK
I have a 78 ford pick up "bought new" so I can't help with yours ... Sorry. I love the show and I think you are very easy on the eyes.So I watch all the time.Keep up the good work.
Happy birthday! Nice work on the truck, looking forward to seeing what the starting problem is
Well done Mook your channel is one of my favorites I love to watch videos about working on vehicles.
You are really good at fixing things.
I hope you will keep us updated on your truck
Happy Birthday, Mook! Wishing you all the best and many more adventures in the future!
i love the fact that Mook just talks to herself while she works on the EFI
If she answers herself back then we need to worry. 🤣
Try turning the key on twice before you start it, because if it starts easier, then your fuel pump is weak. You can adjust your drum brake adjusters by backing up and hitting the brakes, then go ahead and back and forth so the adjuster resets your brakes. By doing this you will not adjust them too tight to drag a brake. I would also check those plastic vacuum lines as we had an brand new one that would go through a set of plugs a year because the line melted a hole in them and would suck outside air in. We found it be cause the dealer never did. It is great to see a girl wrench a truck and teach the boys some thing. My daughter was handy with tools when she went to college and fixed a few things for the boys.
it's the MAP sensor. The fuel side is fine, it's the air side of the mix.
map sensor would activate check engine light
@@grantkoeller8911 It has been my experience that you can't always rely on the warning system. Especially before OBDII.
@@grantkoeller8911 I would listen to him because he's smarternu,,,,,,,see what I did there?
I was having similar problems on my 87 f150. Replacing the MAP helped the idle, bit installing a penny on the EGR helped the power and mpg. No check engine lights and no codes.
@@isfallingdown Installing a penny...where?
I was trying to chase down power loss in my F-250 460 for awhile, and it turned out to be a seized fan clutch.
happy birthday Mook! 🎂
low power on the 302 is possibly plugged muffler or catalytic converter or bad tps or temp sensor
as for the long crank check fuel press with a guage
can also be bad injectors
good luck tracking it down
keep up the great videos! 👐
The AIT helped a little. I removed the distributor. My friend removed the cast iron drive gear and spacer using a hydraulic press. There are two pins you have to remove prior to taking the gear off and spacer. The truck was starting to cut out electrically. I removed and replaced the pick up coil after disassembling the distributor. The pick up coil can't be removed with the dist. installed in the engine. Now the truck starts a lot faster! Note: the pick up coil is like a crankshaft trigger sensor, except its mounted on the distributor.
Happy Birthday Mook!
Brakes are more important than, acceleration. The suspension works in conjunction with the Brakes to control the truck when you steer.
Nicely done Mook! Putting a little blood sweat or tears into any project and not giving up tends to lead to positive results. And You used what you learned from Kevin to try and teach your brother. That is what's all about! 👏 Even though you can't always concentrate, you listened to what you needed to to understand Kevin.
Your long crank time may be do to improper commutation between the parts...it is an EFI, and the computer isn't getting the what it needs to function properly.
Happy birthday Mook!
I used to keep an old couch cushion handy for when I had to lay across an engine compartment. Prevents puncture wounds.
I took my old carpet floor mats, it's not perfect but it works.
OK, this is like the best sitcom episode I've seen in a while. It's right up there with the WKRP turkey drop.
As God is my Witness...... I thought Turkeys could fly.
Best tv series.
Oh the horror!
"Goodnight, sleep tight, get your shit together" - Mook 2021.
When you do valve cover gaskets make sure you have an extra long torx T-40 for the center bolt on the upper intake. Check the EGR tube when you do it too. They like to crack.
Check the center pivot bushings in the beams. When they go bad they have all kinds of handling issues.
And the radius arm bushings and ball joints
Tie rods and steering shaft slip joint and rubber rag joint .
45+year Tech here. Save your back. Either remove the valve cores to let air out of front tires, or remove the front wheels and set it down on a 2x4' under the lower ball joint or rotors. SAVE YOUR BACK!!!
I see the police released you after kitchen roll assaulting Kevin 🤣
Oh an ps, nice to see the truck running smoother , well done you 👍👍
Start it like a diesel, whereas turn the key to "on", wait a few seconds to let the fuel system pressurize, then crank.
She did give it time to prime.
if you need to cycle the pump before starting then the Regulator needs to be replaced !
@@mylanmiller9656 they replaced that and i did on my truck to still want start first try think its just a ford thing
Yes! 2 Mook videos in 1 day! Yeah, I know the first one was under a minute long but still funny.
the look on that dogs face and in the eyes is priceless. It's like she's saying "i didnt do it. i found the box like this. wasnt me.. i'm sorry" lol
in the 80s I worked for a ford dealer,and repaired many of these. my suggestion is to retro fit a bronze manual tank switcher,if it has 2 tanks,if it only has one,delete the frame mount filter and or filt hsg,(good time to add a delivery pump on frame)but get rid of the factory frame mount filter,housing and or switcher. also look for burnt annealed connections,at the dash electric tank switch and the connector(s)on the tank(s)
@junkyard mook - love your videos - I know you're careful by nature, but please make sure your hair never gets caught by the spinning drive belts...enough said - Keep Up the Great Work!!!
"That felt like a 90s Ford. Disappointing, but smooothly disappointing!"
That's funny since my 1986 F150 with a 96 Mustang 5.0 HO could easily smoke late model Vortec powered Chevy Silverados back then and topped out at about 135 mph.
Try a new starter motor, have had 3 vehicles now that had long cranking time before starting, each one turned out to be a warn starter 🙂
Get a gear reduction starter.. not a cheap oem style, the cheap aftermarket versions don't hold up or spin well.
I bought a 88 Ranger that sat for 3 years. Had to replace every relay in it. Check every connection and clean it.
I was lucky the fuel pump still worked. I was also lucky that the ECU was still good.
Electronic connection cleaner and waterproof non conductive silicon is your best friend. When used properly it fixes a lot of issues.
I have a 93 I paid 300$ for, I have spent 13,000$ on it so far,it’s an awesome rig .so far it has 35” tires ,2” lift ,rebuilt 302 5.0l forged pistons,msd ignition system,bored .040 over,steel crank,351 Windsor cam ,60mm turbo,cherry bomb exhaust and some more stuff,I friggin love it. Needs paint gonna do it with rock guard I think.😜 Diggs should be jacking that truck and blocking it with you.
I see the '89 F-150 was a Texas truck once apon a time.
I noticed the blue and white inspection sticker in the window, circa 2012-13.
Cool beans!
Happy Birthday Mook!
Hey, I don't know where you are on the long crank issue, I just watched this video today. You should hook up a pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if you have pressure drop when after you shut the engine off. Check it on both tanks. If the pressure drops on one tank and not the other, most likely that lift pump has a bad check valve. It's internal to the pump so you would need to get a new one. You could also have a leaking injector dropping fuel pressure with the key off.
As others have stated, check the coolant temp sensor, inspect and clean grounds, replace the 02 sensors, and fuel injectors.
I was also thinking coolant temp sensor
Fun fact, this is first gen EFI. No O2 sensor. That didnt come until the OBDII models.
on most Fords, when you back up, and apply the brakes, it self-adjusts the rear brakes (if they are working correctly)
All drum brakes have been doing that since the 50's and 60's
Every car guy needs a Mook in his life, she is absolutly delightful.
Compression test and make sure gapped plugs right and tighten properly . 1st Compression test wet / dry to check valves or ...
You have nice truck there Mook, a few more parts here there, it's a keeper. By the way, Happy Birthday Day 💥
PS, more vids please, major props to you Mook for doing your own vehicle work repairs and replacements. Love your channel.
Hey Mook! Go through the entire brake system and tires bearings ect. Keep yourself safe and keep up the good work!!
Have you noticed the oil pressure Guage was dropping and going back up. From the view we had it looked really low for that rpm and speeds
Those Ford's have terrible gauges never really accurate.
Fords typically run pretty low oil pressure and honestly that could be some corrosion on the connector
There just a switch and not a true gauge.
got this same truck it's really inspiring seeing you work on the same things i've been trying to learn!
Hi Mook. It's perfectly normal for some vehicle's to take a little longer to start than others. You could have 2 exact same vehicles off of the Assembly line, and one with take a second or 2 longer to start. I'm a retired Automotive Tech. With over 35 years behind me. I've worked for Chrysler, Ford, and G.M. And all of them had vehicles like these. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the way your truck starts. Many of my Auto. Tech friends tried to check this out, and spent alot of money, and effort to no avail. Great job on your new truck by the way.☺
For the extended cranking time, I would check to see how much slack is in the timing chain. It is not difficult to do, it cost nothing to do and it verifies the engine's ability to generate proper cylinder pressures when spinning over at lower RPM's. I would do this especially if this is a high mileage engine.
@@edoneill6701 Hey, it was worth a look... just trying to help here.
The BMAP sensor , the throttle position sensor, the ECT and ACT are the main inputs that the computer uses for cold starting until the engine reaches 160 degrees or above
Be sure to clean the IAC “Idle air control valve” on top of the throttle body. Trust me don’t buy aftermarket ones they are hit and miss. Same with your MAP sensor don’t buy aftermarket ones
This truck has a BMAP not a MAF sensor
@@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930 you’re absolutely right lol I completely forgot it’s a map sensor not a MAF sensor
Great video! Happy belated birthday.
Something I wanted to mention is about the spark plugs. My truck had a terrible idle (sounded like a big cam and smelled like gas) so yesterday I changed the plugs on my 96 F150 (also a 302). I found that 6 of the 8 plugs only had a gap of .040. The reason I bring this up is because the pre-EFI 302 gap should be .044. My 96 in particular is supposed to be .054. The Motorcraft plugs i bought also came gapped at .044. After adjusting the new plugs and installing them my truck starts better, runs smoother, and idles correctly plus it saved me from buying a IAC.
While I don't think that is going to solve your starting problem entirely, it may be something to look into as to what gap your 89 with EFI wants and what the gap was that went it. I fully understand it is a pain to pull them back out though.
Fuel pump fixed my issue with a long crank.
As for your starting issue. Check your pcv hose. (Back of intake passenger side) had the same issue chased fuel and spark issues. Till I went to put a catch can in and found the cracked pcv hose. Best of luck Kevin and mook.
Does it start faster if you cycle the key 3 times, letting the fuel pump cycle off? If so, the fuel system is bleeding off, probably in the fuel pump module.
Or carbon on the backside of the valves, major concern of early fuel injected Fords. We would walnut blast the valves with a special machine at the dealer.
@@bryceduvall8090 easy enough to find out..hit it with ether and see if it fires right way.
The problem could be delayed fire in distributer or out of time.You also might want to get some octane booster at Walmart paired with a higher grade of fule. GREAT video, Happy Birthday.
Happy Birthday! Sounds like the egr might be hanging open. I'd clean it first before replacing. Also the catalyst may be clogged. Hope this helps!
your long cranking issue could be the time it takes to build oil pressure, those systems depend on the oil switch to start fuel pump and power the ignition, also that fuel pressure should run over 60psi, this is why they got a bad rep, several things have to happen before they start.
Oh and happy birthday to Mook 🎂🎁😘
Harmonic balancer. Having the same problem with my 89 351w F250. Right manifold was glowing. Was hard start prior to it. I put new cat, cleaned tanks, fuel pump and filter, compression check. Fuel pressure test. Put a timing light on it. Should be at 10 degrees btdc with the spout connector in the harness out. Good luck and happy Birthday Mook
We need an Issac project on the channel now! More content for the viewers!
Kevin,..you've got to marry that Mook !! Shes one in a billion,..Youre made for each other. Happy birthday Mookster !
I believe the same they are perfect for each other as I and my wife are my number 2 wrench for 35 years
Life goes past quickly,..it's rare to be spending it with a girl who's your best friend and wife.
I don't have time to read through all the comments so I'm not sure anyone has suggested it yet but I recently had the same slow starting problem (dirty injectors) with my severely neglected F-150. Run a bottle of Berryman's Fuel system cleaner through the fuel tank. It solved my problem and power wise, woke my truck up too.
I am from MI and to see a F-150 look as good as this truck I am in total shock. I sure hope you folks are putting these incredible trucks on the path to a new life.
I have a sweet 88 with a 8 foot bed. Glad I stumbled on this channel. Fun to watch!!!
A waxed cardboard vegetable box, flattened out is ideal for when you've got to climb into the engine bay to remove something. It's comfortable and hardy enough to use quite a few times before you need to ditch it and get a new one. Broccoli boxes are ideal. .
For the rough starting, check the timing chain, they like to go slack. Also verify ignition timing. If it’s ECC2 there should be a diagnostic port near the driver firewall corner under the hood. If you jump a wire to ground you can count flashes of the check engine light to get codes. How does it start hot? It could be many things like coolant temp sensor, map sensor on its way out, tps, just a lot of things it could be. But for most of them you can grab a meter and test the sensors
I think 89 was too early for ecc2
@@MegaDysart it probably is. I haven’t messed with a Ford that old in a long time.
Wish i can get a Sister Like Mook.She is just awsome and very likeable.
Watch Wes Work made an excellent suggestion. Engine Coolant Temp switch is telling the engine the engine is cold. Use your handy code reader, that will tell you what temp the engine thinks it is. If the ECT is reading, engine cold... Then the Computer should activate some type of "cold enrichment". Might even have a solenoid to add additional fuel while cold, basically taking the place of the Choke.
The long crank issue could be because of a bunch of dirty/clogged injectors so I would recommend taking them out and seeing if they are clogged or not spraying right. It could also be a slight compression issue so try throwing a bunch of seafoam into the gas to give it more compression from the oil.