This helped tremendously, I went to ask a lock smith to see how much they would charge and they said $145. without the part. So i bought the part watched this video multiple times and completed the job in 40 mins. Booom. Thanks!
Excellent how to video. The only problem I had was disconnecting the steel hook from the original actuator, I had to cut the plastic piece to remove the hook from the lock assembly. The job only took about an hour total and saved big $$$$$$$ .
Very helpful . Be careful removing door panel once screws removed. I broke a plastic mount next to door handle. I ran a screw through it to reattach it. Instead of removing window guide. I just removed supporting bolt which allows you to push it back just far enough to remove and reattach actuator hook.
Yours was the only video I could find that covered this model actuator. I was able to pry the old one off and spread the bracket with a large wrench to slide the new one in. I also just unsnapped the rod using your tip. Thanks for saving the day with your tips.
Thank You for taking the time to record and post this. You still are the only SuperCrew actuator video. You made my Sunday project easy. This Molson Canadian I'm drinking is to you. On a side note my actuator bracket was broken at the rivet , so I had two pieces a U and an L. Used a punch to clear the broken rivet and used a 1/4 20 pan head bolt with a lock nut worked great. Could not find the bracket anywhere and too lazy to go to the junk yard. Thanks again!!!
+Jeffery Bissonnette I've done a few of these now, and it's kind of hit and miss whether the bracket is bolted or riveted from the factory. I got lucky when I did this video, I guess. Glad the video helped you out. I noticed a while back that only SuperCab models were covered, so made it a point to put up a SuperCrew video. Glad to hear that you were able to remedy your broken bracket and rivet. Just noticed that there aren't any 2.3L Escape water pump videos online....might post a vid of the one I did last night. Unfortunately I didn't have my cameraman, so the camera work is not as good...but should help get the point across. Thanks for your comment!
Glad this helped you. I don't recall what the rear actuators were like. Last time I had a truck w/ the rear locks malfunctioning, it turned out to be the wire harness in the door jamb. Pretty common issue.
Your welcome, I am a mechanic too. I am just hoping that we can organize people like us to create a transition of building online mechanic assistance and start a FOUNDATION for those who can't afford to fix their vehicle, and are willing to do it themselves through our virtual online technical walk-through. If you are willing, please keep in touch for details. Thanks, JayR
My truck has been making that same noise since 2012 but still locks just fine. I hate that sounds but can't make myself spend any money on it until it actually stops actuating. Thanks for the video in case mine ever goes out too though.
I am working on a 2001 f150 super crew. it's similar but not quite. I am stuck taking the actuator out, I am sure I will have a heck of a time putting one in as well
Hello AK Jeeper. Thank you for a very informative video. I have a 2003 supercrew and had that annoying sound on my right front door for 7 years forunately, the lock stills works . I been looking for a video on a supercrew and so glad I ran into yours. I have the new part which I order from 1a auto already. Tomorrow I will use your video to replace the door actuator hope it comes out right. Again, thanks for posting it.
+Joe Diffy Unfortunately, no. I haven't come across any bad rear actuators on these trucks. I've come across more wiring problems in the rear doors than anything else. wires tend to snap right in the rubber boot between the door and jamb.
+147thRWTXANG Thanks! I noticed nobody had posted a video for doing this on a SuperCrew pickup...so when I had a customer bring one into the shop, I made it a point to make a video of the procedure. Hope it helped you!
+bwilsonscuba I recently worked on another truck and the bracket was riveted on to the door. :( I managed to sneak the actuator out by spreading the bracket out, much like I did with the one in the video. Was just a bit harder since I had to work from within the door. Alternatively, you could drill the rivet out (assuming yours is the riveted in style) then put a regular nut/washer/bolt in place of the rivet. Hope this helps!
Great Job....I think you just saved me a ton in labor costs. This is definitely something I can do myself. Do you have any "after thoughts" ? Any other bits of advice? How much was the actuator?
I've done several of these actuators now. The actuator was about $35, and the local Carquest keeps these in stock. The only thing I can suggest is that it's incredibly helpful to have someone to hold the door open and shine a light where you're working. One of the rigs I worked on recently had the actuator bracket riveted into the door panel, so I had to drill that out and replace the rivet with a small nut, washer, lock washer, and bolt.
You may want to determine whether the problem on your truck is electrical, or if it's the actuator. I've seen these trucks come in with both kinds of trouble. The wiring often breaks right in the rubber boot between the door and door jamb.
I have a 97 f150 and my door actuators work off and on should I change mine?? If so I called my local auto parts and they wanted $158 for both and on eBay there 31 for both...which so I choose 🤔
My personal opinion is your local auto parts store carries the same kind of parts as eBay. Save the money and get the eBay ones if they are from a reputable seller and the parts have good reviews. But before you order the actuators - be sure that it's an actuator problem and not a problem with the switches on the door panels (very common problem as well)...or the wiring.
So a problem I'm having isn't that my lock is malfunctioning, but rather it makes a loud noise when I lock the car. Almost like a very fast rattle. Do you think it's the actuator?
It could very well be the actuator. These actuators have plastic gears inside. They tend to strip out or break teeth, and will make a lot of noise before they ultimately fail. The truck I worked on in the video started making a plasticky rattle sound when the lock started having issues. The lock still worked. One morning, the noise changed to the buzz noise I showed at the beginning of the video. At that point, the lock quit working.
+bwilsonscuba Glad that this helped. I noticed that there weren't any that I've been able to find on a Super Crew. Procedure is a bit different on these, so I decided to post one up since I had one come into the shop. If memory serves, the Expedition uses the same system as the Super Crew as well.
What bothered me was, I bought the parts from Amazon. Paid 50 for passenger and 80 for driver side. Had to special order them. What I believe, there is no difference and I could have saved 30 bucks even. Oh well, they are working great now. Instead of taking the window rail out, I just rotated it forward and worked great. Thanks again.
This helped tremendously, I went to ask a lock smith to see how much they would charge and they said $145. without the part. So i bought the part watched this video multiple times and completed the job in 40 mins. Booom. Thanks!
Cool, thorough and helpful- good job!!
Just changed mine, very helpful! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for making this video.
Excellent how to video. The only problem I had was disconnecting the steel hook from the original actuator, I had to cut the plastic piece to remove the hook from the lock assembly. The job only took about an hour total and saved big $$$$$$$ .
Very helpful . Be careful removing door panel once screws removed. I broke a plastic mount next to door handle. I ran a screw through it to reattach it. Instead of removing window guide. I just removed supporting bolt which allows you to push it back just far enough to remove and reattach actuator hook.
Yours was the only video I could find that covered this model actuator. I was able to pry the old one off and spread the bracket with a large wrench to slide the new one in. I also just unsnapped the rod using your tip. Thanks for saving the day with your tips.
Thank You for taking the time to record and post this. You still are the only SuperCrew actuator video. You made my Sunday project easy. This Molson Canadian I'm drinking is to you. On a side note my actuator bracket was broken at the rivet , so I had two pieces a U and an L. Used a punch to clear the broken rivet and used a 1/4 20 pan head bolt with a lock nut worked great. Could not find the bracket anywhere and too lazy to go to the junk yard. Thanks again!!!
+Jeffery Bissonnette I've done a few of these now, and it's kind of hit and miss whether the bracket is bolted or riveted from the factory. I got lucky when I did this video, I guess. Glad the video helped you out. I noticed a while back that only SuperCab models were covered, so made it a point to put up a SuperCrew video. Glad to hear that you were able to remedy your broken bracket and rivet. Just noticed that there aren't any 2.3L Escape water pump videos online....might post a vid of the one I did last night. Unfortunately I didn't have my cameraman, so the camera work is not as good...but should help get the point across. Thanks for your comment!
This helps a ton! It's my actual door, not just something close enough. Thanks for the video, great guide!
Thanks for your video. It was the only one I can find on a crew cab. I was able to do both front doors on a 2001 ford F150. Your awesome man.
Very good video and very thorough ... so far the most detailed video I could find ...!
Thanks for your positive feedback! Have a great day!
Great video. Very well done. Helped me get my 2003 crew cab drivers lock back up and working with my new key!!
Great video - nice and clear - thank you for your work. I have to to front passenger and rear passenger - hope the rear is similar
Glad this helped you. I don't recall what the rear actuators were like. Last time I had a truck w/ the rear locks malfunctioning, it turned out to be the wire harness in the door jamb. Pretty common issue.
well done...very comprehensive...nice one
Thank you. I appreciate you checking out my video. Please subscribe and stay tuned for more videos!
Your welcome, I am a mechanic too. I am just hoping that we can organize people like us to create a transition of building online mechanic assistance and start a FOUNDATION for those who can't afford to fix their vehicle, and are willing to do it themselves through our virtual online technical walk-through. If you are willing, please keep in touch for details.
Thanks,
JayR
My truck has been making that same noise since 2012 but still locks just fine. I hate that sounds but can't make myself spend any money on it until it actually stops actuating.
Thanks for the video in case mine ever goes out too though.
I am working on a 2001 f150 super crew. it's similar but not quite. I am stuck taking the actuator out, I am sure I will have a heck of a time putting one in as well
Thanks for the video. I have a 2002 F150 Super Crew and this is just like mine. Great Job!
Hello AK Jeeper. Thank you for a very informative video. I have a 2003 supercrew and had that annoying sound on my right front door for 7 years forunately, the lock stills works . I been looking for a video on a supercrew and so glad I ran into yours. I have the new part which I order from 1a auto already.
Tomorrow I will use your video to replace the door actuator hope it comes out right.
Again, thanks for posting it.
Kinda figured the only way was to bend loose the clip on the OE unit, thanks for posting.
Is it the same part for the back door
Yo thanx for the vid really help full saved myself couple hundred dollars.
Awesome! Thanks man this is perfect
You wouldn't by chance have a video doing the rear doors would you?
+Joe Diffy Unfortunately, no. I haven't come across any bad rear actuators on these trucks. I've come across more wiring problems in the rear doors than anything else. wires tend to snap right in the rubber boot between the door and jamb.
Ok no problem, thanks for the info!
I know this is an old video but I need to know if the back actuators are the same part as the front
On the SuperCrew truck, each door has its own unique door actuator. So the part number on all 4 doors is different.
good video man.
+147thRWTXANG Thanks! I noticed nobody had posted a video for doing this on a SuperCrew pickup...so when I had a customer bring one into the shop, I made it a point to make a video of the procedure. Hope it helped you!
mine doesn't have a lock actuator bracket bolt to remove. it looks super simple when you do it.
+bwilsonscuba I recently worked on another truck and the bracket was riveted on to the door. :( I managed to sneak the actuator out by spreading the bracket out, much like I did with the one in the video. Was just a bit harder since I had to work from within the door. Alternatively, you could drill the rivet out (assuming yours is the riveted in style) then put a regular nut/washer/bolt in place of the rivet. Hope this helps!
Good video thanks
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Great Job....I think you just saved me a ton in labor costs. This is definitely something I can do myself. Do you have any "after thoughts" ? Any other bits of advice? How much was the actuator?
I've done several of these actuators now. The actuator was about $35, and the local Carquest keeps these in stock. The only thing I can suggest is that it's incredibly helpful to have someone to hold the door open and shine a light where you're working. One of the rigs I worked on recently had the actuator bracket riveted into the door panel, so I had to drill that out and replace the rivet with a small nut, washer, lock washer, and bolt.
Anyone do a back door on a 2001-2003 supercrew?
my door lock will work for 2 days with out problems but then it will not lock, but it opens with out any problems should I change it?
You may want to determine whether the problem on your truck is electrical, or if it's the actuator. I've seen these trucks come in with both kinds of trouble. The wiring often breaks right in the rubber boot between the door and door jamb.
I have a 97 f150 and my door actuators work off and on should I change mine?? If so I called my local auto parts and they wanted $158 for both and on eBay there 31 for both...which so I choose 🤔
My personal opinion is your local auto parts store carries the same kind of parts as eBay. Save the money and get the eBay ones if they are from a reputable seller and the parts have good reviews. But before you order the actuators - be sure that it's an actuator problem and not a problem with the switches on the door panels (very common problem as well)...or the wiring.
will this model fit the front passenger door?
Dorman #746157 fits the front left or front right door on Super Crew models...at least that's what my source tells me.
So weird, ordering parts, I got a different type. This is what mine looks like. Is it a revision or something?
So a problem I'm having isn't that my lock is malfunctioning, but rather it makes a loud noise when I lock the car. Almost like a very fast rattle. Do you think it's the actuator?
It could very well be the actuator. These actuators have plastic gears inside. They tend to strip out or break teeth, and will make a lot of noise before they ultimately fail. The truck I worked on in the video started making a plasticky rattle sound when the lock started having issues. The lock still worked. One morning, the noise changed to the buzz noise I showed at the beginning of the video. At that point, the lock quit working.
AKJeeper I'll be checking it out. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for your video. It was the only one I can find on a crew cab. I was able to do both front doors on a 2001 ford F150. Your awesome man.
+bwilsonscuba Glad that this helped. I noticed that there weren't any that I've been able to find on a Super Crew. Procedure is a bit different on these, so I decided to post one up since I had one come into the shop. If memory serves, the Expedition uses the same system as the Super Crew as well.
What bothered me was, I bought the parts from Amazon. Paid 50 for passenger and 80 for driver side. Had to special order them. What I believe, there is no difference and I could have saved 30 bucks even. Oh well, they are working great now. Instead of taking the window rail out, I just rotated it forward and worked great. Thanks again.
How much were the actuators?
Bwilsoncuba......sorry, I just noticed you already answered my question.
Thanks for your video. It was the only one I can find on a crew cab. I was able to do both front doors on a 2001 ford F150. Your awesome man.