2001 Ford F150 Door Lock Actuator Replacement
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2013
- My passenger-side power door lock actuator finally died on my 2001 Ford F150. I watched some really good UA-cam videos and got some additional information from Instructables and decided to tackle it myself. The actuators were only about $25 USD per side. I recorded the whole process and tried to compile all of the information and tips that I learned from all my sources into a single video. I was REALLY doing this for the first time so you should find most of this to be super easy. I hope you find it helpful.
Great video, great step by step process. Very helpful. Guys like you who take the time to record a video and show the steps are the reasons people everywhere can save some money. Thanks again!
Nice video. Thanks! The tip to pry the old actuator out, as long as you are replacing the whole actuator, was great. My only observation was that you can keep it plugged in while you pry it out. Then when you pull the old actuator out, the plug is super easy to remove. Thanks for saving me some $$.
Worked great on my '99 F-150. You don't have to move the window channel far to get at it and as you alluded, it's easier to remove the power after popping the old actuator out. Great video. Made it really easy. Took about 1/2 hour for both sides. Thanks very much!
Great news, Kent! I'm glad I could help.
Thanks for the video. I have the same 2001 f150 and been driving it with the passenger side lock actuator broken for probably 10 years. Last week saw your video. I bought the dorman lock for $20 on Amazon, and had it installed in 20 minutes with your help. No more reaching across to unlock it! Woohoo! Thanks!
Just used this video to replace the passenger side actuator on my 2001 F150. Done exactly as you said and it took me less than an hour. Thanks for the video.
There's also a little entryway on the actual door jamb where the actuator goes you can use a skinny long flat head to kind of push into the crevice and it will help loosen the actuator off then you can just reach in from the opposite end and pull the actuator out by hand!👍🏾
Yep! I was just about to mention it. Laypeople like me would call it the door latch, if you look inside of it you'll see a thin horizontal slit on the bottom. And you'll see black plastic behind this gap, and it's the door lock actuator. So just push with a thin screwdriver to push the door lock actuator towards the door exterior side.
Great, simple and very detailed. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! The hardest part was figuring out the "hole" to put the actuator arm onto. Once that was figured out, it was a breeze.
Thanks so much for video, it helped me tremendously. I did both sides on my 2000 F-150 yesterday and it took just over an hour. The only thing I did differently was to "break" the actuator like you said, but I kept it plugged in. Once it was loose, I just lifted it out of the hole and the plug was easy to unplug instead of when it was still mounted. I got estimate at local shop for $400 to replace the pair, so this saved me lots of cash.. Thanks again.
Can't thank you enough for this information. Have a '02 150 conversion van. Have to replace actuator on the driver side. Thanks to one of the earlier comments actuators are only around $12.00. Was thinking about getting one from NAPA. Around $64.00. In my book 12 sounds a whole hell of a lot better than 64. Keep up the good work.
That's awesome! I've learned so much from UA-cam and it's great to know that I've helped someone else.
Worked for me and saved me a serious headache. I was watching another guys video and started taking everything apart when I didn't need to. Thanks!
These instructions worked perfectly for me as I replaced the actuator on the passenger side of my son's 2003 F150 XLT.
Great to hear, John. Almost 200,000 views now. Wow!
Well, my 2003 F-150 Supercrew was very different, but I figured it out, thanks to the pointers you gave me.
Thanks a million Mark! Exactly what I needed to fix my 2000 f150. Still running strong, these are wonderful trucks! 👍🏻
Hello there !! I also have a 2000 f150 and still running strong as well !! Question does your truck have keyless entry fob to lock and unlock door with a fob.!! My new actuators that i just bought came with remote fobs but upon doing the 8x key turn it won’t active any key cycle lock.!! Just wondering if maybe my truck model does not have that feature !!!!
Thanks Mark!!!!! i could not have done this without you! Well done video mate! Thanks
I just wish you had a special camera to show were and how you put the actuator in. Beside this it was a great job. That is why I am going to put mine for both doors in 2000 f150. Thanks again.
Thanks a bunch .!! Got to replace both actuators on my 2000 f150.. I can finally lock and unlock from my driver side control panel!!🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽 note: i found out it’s more easy to pry off the actuator before Unplugging the harness!!! Once the actuator is loose the plug is so much easier to take off!! Anyways thanks a lot
Great vid man!! Thanks for taking us along for the repair!!
I stumbled across this video and it's great! Both of mine in my 2k F150 are bad and it cinched me up about what they were going to charge at the dealership to replace them. I knew it couldn't be a $300+ job from the dealer! Now I can tackle mine. I hope the driver's side is just as easy!
Woohoo! 200,000 views! I'm at least 100 lbs lighter now, by the way. 😎 Fasting and keto.
Awesome man
@@henrymao89 From inside the vehicle, you simply pull the door opener. There is never any situation where you would need to "lift the tiny lock".
Great video, did both doors today on my 2k f150 in about a half hour. Saved a ton of money, many thanks my friend!
Great! Glad I could help.
Hey Thanks, great video...and tips... saved me lots of trouble, time and money. I picked up the set for 21.95 on ebay with free shipping and no tax... I did both doors in about 45 minutes. I removed the actuators without disconnecting the wires and connected the wires before reinstalling.
Love the video, it saved me $400. Never done anything like this but was able to do the first door in about an hour and the second door took about 20 minutes. I actually drilled two small holes right outside the top and bottom of actuator and then inserted a small screw driver to poke the unit out of the bracket - pushing towards outside of door. The units came off quickly. I was then able to remove electrical clip easily. Attached power to new unit, reached inside door and slide unit onto the bracket. Really a quick process. However, i would not have tried this without this cool video. Thanks Mark!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. The job was actually much easier than I expected.
Just fixed both of the locks, thanks to your great video. Cheers to DIY work.
Perfect video, it was so easy just by following the instructions. First door took 20 minutes, second about 10. Thank you so much.
Thanks to this video I'm about to tackle my doors with confidence! 5 years of no electric door locks going bye-bye! Thank you sir!........ It took me 35 minutes to do the driver side and passenger side. Personal note, make sure to inspect the metal around the window guide bolt. They crack and break and rattle. Mine's a mess.
THANK YOU FOR GETTING BACK TO ME!
Thanks so much! Your video made this easy! I had it playing on my kindle as I did it step by step. You saved me a lot of time and money!
I really needed this, since the Chilton manual does not describe this procedure for my 2001 F150. I have only a few comments to help others. As noted below by RidinFree, loosening the bolt for the window track gives you a bit more room without having to completely remove the bolt. I didn't read sparkymustang's comment until after I finished the job, and I don't see the slot that he mentions on the outside of the door after everything is back together. Maybe it is under the door panel. To me, the hardest part of the job is removing the old actuator; the new one has a smaller format and fits in pretty easily. Lastly, after reading many comments on Amazon about the poor quality of most of the aftermarket actuators, I decided to order Motorcraft parts through Amazon. These look identical to the many aftermarket parts that had the complaints; they are not at all the same as the original parts I removed. Time will tell, but you will probably do just as well with the higher rated aftermarket actuators.
I've been using the Amazon actuators in my daily driver since the video posted with no problems.
Thanks Mark your video help my 10 year old and I bond on Father’s Day.
Excellent job explaining how to do the actuator swap. Thank you..
Straight forward video, made it easy to get mine done.
Thanks for your easy to follow guidance - changing mine today
Awesome video, thanks! I have a 2000 Ford F150, and neither actuator worked. I followed this step by step on the first side, and the second side maybe took 5 minutes to complete. Thanks again!
Just ordered the parts to do this on my lightning, great video very helpful
Great tutorial. The two tips that you mention (using a screw driver to loosen the connector and just breaking the actuator (using the screw driver to break it off) are excellent. Not doing that will mean going nuts trying to do it the "right way." This is a better way that works. 1st door took me an hour+, second one 20 min.
Great video. If you do accidently pull the track off the clip, lower window about two inches, pull rubber off the horizontal,pull on track until pulls from corner, that should lower the u-clip to hook in place, push back up. Done no binding.
I did this fix today and the darn track came apart. Can you please explain a little more to someone who isn't that bright at auto repair, how I can put the track back together?
Hey thanks for posting. I changed a few things. I didn't plug the wire in before reinstalling. I found it was impossible to work with the wire when it was plugged in. It worked well that way for the passenger side, but not on the drivers side. I guess it would depend if your right or left handed. Plus being a lady I probably have smaller hands than most guys doing this. I also didn't take the bold fully out of the window guide, I thought it would be to my benefit to NOT mess anything up. I watched three different videos to accomplish this task. But gleaned good things from each. I have success, and now both doors are functioning great!
Thanks for your comment! I'm glad I could help.
Thanks Mark! Video made the job simple on my '99 F150!
Very helpful! Going to attempt this today.
Great video. The steps were almost exactly the same for my 2003 Ford Thunderbird, but I chose not to loosen the window guide.
thanks for the instruction it worked on my 99 f-150 like a charm
NOW I'LL HAVE TO SEE IF I CAN DO WHAT YOU JUST DID ON THE DRIVERS SIDE ? YOU MADE IT LOOK EASY! THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO! BE SAFE! HAVE FUN! GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS!
Thanks your video was a great help
Thanks buddy. Priceless.
Thanks, have the same issue on a 2003 F-150. Very helpful as well as the ebay tip.
Keep up the good work Buddy...
Worked exactly as you said it would! Thank you very much for this :-)
Thanks for this Vid! Third time this actuator has been replaced in just over 100K miles on the truck. First was under warranty, Second I took it in and they replaced with another OE Ford unit This time I decided to do it myself and use the Dorman unit. We'll see how it goes. Can't be any worse than the Ford unit at 1/3 the price.
Thanks, again. Vid made it much easier.
Awesome video. Thanks!
This is the one you want to watch. On switch panel pry up front side first then slide forward. Handle, pry front side out then work forward to avoid breaking tab. Dont forget to unplug light. This took me about 25 minutes.
You're the man. Thank you very much sir.
Thanks Mark, I'm going to give it a shot!
Just did this replacement on my 2003 F150 and this video was a great help except that on the 2003 you don't have that big opening on the door. For others with the 2003 a tip - there is a support bar for the handle that will prevent the replacement unit from being able to slide in from left to right (at least on my piece) so I just use a screwdriver to force it away temporarily and the unit slid right in.
if you are going to try and replace the door lock actuator there is a safer and easier way to get the old actuator unclipped so it will release and you can pull it out than prying with a screw driver on the assembly. Look on the outside edge of the door where the striker is that clasp to keep the door shut at the bottom is a small slit running horizontal, this is right in line with the actuator. if you insert a thin screwdriver (I used a thin pocket knife) it will release the clip and the actuator will pop right off, no risk of breaking or bending other things on the assembly. stick the knife in and push towards the outside door skin, the actuator will become really loose once you push the clip and you can pull it the rest of the way off (push away from you towards the outside door skin. no need to take out the t25 torx bolts that secure the assembly either. hope that saves someone some time and aggravation, took me 45 min of frustration until I read this tip, could have had it done in 10 min.
That first sentence should have read: If you are going to try and replace the door lock actuator there is a safer and easier way to get the old actuator unclipped so it will release and you can pull it out RATHER than prying with a screw driver on the assembly. Sorry for the typo, I'm sure there's more.
sparkymustang Excellent tip! I never heard that before. I still need to replace the actuator on the driver's side (I bought both actuators at the same time but the driver's side just hasn't been a priority). Maybe I'll do another video and incorporate all of the tips and comments in that one. Thanks!
can u pls email me tuna_catcher2003@yahoo.com...wanna try ur way..i cnt see that hole to put the tiny knife...
Awesome job.
Great video, thanks.
good job big boy... thanks..
Awesome thx ima order them and put them on this weekend
Thanks worked for my 2003.
very helpful thanks
Woohoo! 100,000 views!
Thanks man. I Needed a little assistance.
Thank you so much! :)
Great video, a quick tech tip for future installs is removing the 3 t-25 torx bolts on the door lock mechanism so you can remove and install the actual actuator a lot easier. I know it's hard working in that small space, doing that gives you about 4 inches of extra play so you can unhook the harness and the clip without using extensions.
+matthew sanders Yep. I did this last night and removed the whole unit. I don't have that much patience or eyesight.
+matthew sanders I'll try that when I get around to replacing the actuator on the driver's side. It's been like two years and I still haven't gotten around to it. :)
Hi Matthew. I'm getting ready to replace the passenger side actuator on my '02 f150. Can you tell me where exactly are the 3 torx bolts that you mention here? I know you said the lock mechanism but I'm a little mixed up here! Any tips are appreciated. Thanks...Pete :-)
@pete r if you pause the video at 11.25 you can see them
Pete R. If you pause the video at 11.25 you can see the bolts
this worked as advertised. only issue i had was one small piece of the OEM actuator was stuck in the groove so the replacement wouldn't go in. it was overcast and i didn't have a bright enough light to see it. took less than two minutes to reinstall.
Hi!
Good job with the video. I replaced mine with the Dorman ones you used and they both died less than a year later within a few months of each other.... I'd stay away from Dorman. I just ordered new ones from 1A Auto...
Actuators on eBay for $11.44 each, including shipping, from directauto. They work fine
+E Graves Thank you!
If you are wondering, the only thing securing the door lock actuator to the door is two metal edges poking out from next to the door latch, and the lock actuator has two plastic channels so it slides onto the two metal edges like how a rechargeable battery slides onto a power tool.
The approximate location of those metal edges are one at the bottommost screw surrounding the door latch, and one where the black metal part of the door latch ends (the top of it).
Those are the only two things holding the door lock actuator on and you will slide the door lock actuator in the direction away from you so it slides off of those metal edges.
Unfortunately I'm super bad at describing things so I'll have to come back to fix this comment later.
Basically a tongue and groove joint is used to secure the lock actuator to the door. No screws, bolts, or pins. There's a lot of extra holes on the lock actuator that aren't used for anything.
watch the window track...its clipped at the top and if it comes out, window can bind. The actuator will come out easily if you push the tab thru the slot and twist the actuator top toward the window slide and it will pop out.
yo....love the video. thank you for taking the time. this is probably a dumb question but i don't care. are the actuators the same on both sides? or is it a one size fits all. i drive a '99. oh and THANK YOU FOR THE PART NUMBER!! :)
Thanks for the video. Both my actuators are not working so hopefully I can save myself some $$$ and replace the actuators myself. Kinda scared of screwing up the windows though. Any extra advice on not screwing that up?
My video was based on a combination of other videos that I had seen. I think I just got lucky with the window guide. My suggestion is to just not touch it unless you have to. Try it without removing the bolt or using the bungie and you should be safe.
does pin slides into yellow part that connects to the bar ?
Which actuator did you use? I have an 02 f150 and have the same issue on the passenger side. I was wondering if you could send me a link for the one that is now tried and true, since there are so many on Amazon.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001KQD7YE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pK9BEbQR30ZN8 I ordered both actuators in July 2013. Hilariously, when I go to that link on Amazon now it says that it does NOT fit my 2001 F150. I'm not sure what's up with that. There are also a lot of negative reviews about the quality. All I can tell you is that the truck in this video is still my daily driver (it is rock solid) and that actuator has worked perfectly since the day I filmed this video. Also, watching it again was a bit of a shock. I've lost 100 lbs since then! Good luck!
Thank you! I would have screwed that up without your instructional video. Much appreciated!
what brand are the ones you got with metal arms?? all the ones i can find are plastic
I just saw your post with the link... thx
Window up or done does it matter?
How about the rod to the key cylinder?
Thank you for your video,I follow you to do mine ,very helful
Extremely helpful video that saved me a lot of money. Also cool retro-sifi shirt
thats amazing because i just watched this video and went to fix my locks and didnt have to due anything ? it fixed it self
I cant get mine to lock in
I have no power going to my actuators. The Number 8 fuse is good. Even switched it. Both actuators failed to work at the same time. No sound. Nothing. No power. Anyone have any suggestions? I tried replacing the actuators but that did nothing.
Anybody have a part number for driver side actuator or is it the same?
Trevan Kerr 746- 148
HAVE YOU HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH YOUR REAR EXTENDED DOORS NOT WANTING TO OPEN? BOTH DOORS DON'T WANT TO OPEN UP!
Nope, not for me. I often have people riding in my back seat and the doors work fine. I guess you need to determine if the doors are physically stuck or if the latching mechanisms are broken. Odd that it's both. Good luck with it.
Great video Ty very much. One note for 2003 F 150 if you pull the window channel back in the 2003 it will "unsnap" a clip holding the track in place. It is damn near impossible to see and will cause the window to slow and bind up when attempting to use. I found this link which did an excellent job of describing what happens and how to fix. I just completed both my door locks thank you. The post is a bout midway on my page.
www.f150online.com/forums/1997-2003-f-150/394100-power-window-hell-new-everything-still-slow-2.html
You're the second person commenting here to have window problems after replacing the actuator. Maybe I just got lucky with mine. I should record when I do the driver's side and upload it as a separate video with some notes about the window guides.
look 5x easier than my 1997 f150
2011 Ford F150 key won’t open the door go
good video except not as much space or room to get to the last nut on a ford f150 triton truck
Can't get the actuator out really jammed in there 2000 f150.
For all of you who have a dog, they can burn out both sides at once by standing on the drivers side switch. Also Mark, You might want to tell them to roll up the windows before starting.
+Pondart Inc ua-cam.com/video/nGinDnPB5r8/v-deo.htmlm45s
+Mark Warbington Sorry, I skipped that part.
same for a '99?
I think the range is 1997 to 2003 for this model. All of the F150s for these model years are basically the same.
ok i'll check it out...thanks
It's alot cheaper to just fix the motor by taking actuator apart.
Funny. I'm wearing my Hypnotoad shirt right now. :)
When I get around to replacing the actuator on the driver's side (I bought both sides) I'll crack open the bad one and see what's inside. Although it's certainly possible to repair the motor itself, it's probably not practical given how inexpensive the entire actuator assembly is. There is the point of diminishing returns to consider.
+Mark Warbington I did an dissection last night. It uses a cheap motor. Mine was burned inside. Winding were shorted together. See my comment about dogs standing on the lock switch.
Oreilly's quoted me $107 EACH!!!!!!!!!! Get these on ebay $10-$11 each
Down*