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CR-10s Pro 3D Printer Enclosure Pt1 (Complete build guide for free)
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2021
- I needed an enclosure for my Creality Cr-10s Pro 3d printer but nobody sold one that didn't fry the electronics. So I made one!
It's always advised to use an enclosure when 3d printing but both the CR-10s Pro V1 & V2 make it difficult because of the placement of the screen and electronics. That's why you need a bespoke enclosure. I have provided full plans, STLs and a comprehensive build-a-long guide so that you can make this enclosure for your printer too.
If you want to support my channel and see what's coming next, click the below link to 'buy me a coffee' (no purchase necessary)
www.buymeacoff...
Download all plans and files here:
Thingiverse: www.thingivers...
Cults3d: cults3d.com/en...
Affiliate links (If you purchase something after clicking any of the below links I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. This is a great way to support the channel)
Sheet Material
9mm Plywood 8x4' sheet x1 (Buy locally to you)
Batten material
15mm/5/8" square 7.5m/25' (buy locally)
Piano hinge (1"x24")
Brass UK - amzn.to/3qYAI7y
US - amzn.to/3c7CE7g (cut down to 24")
Insulation
UK - amzn.to/2T2bgl6
US - amzn.to/31WJ7zZ
Foil tape
UK - amzn.to/3hrODzH
US - amzn.to/3qxlTKP
Magnetic Catches
UK - amzn.to/3AIlacy
US - amzn.to/30ji3tJ
Foam strip
UK - amzn.to/3yAp0T8
US - amzn.to/3DaMuRA
Ikea Sindvik Glass Door (23 5/8x25 1/4 ")
US - www.ikea.com/u...
UK - www.ikea.com/g...
Man i reallly glad i watched this. Ofeo before i put my cr10s pro inside an enclosire. It never even dawned on me it would be too hot for the electronics!
Glad it helped.
Great build. I’ll be modifying it so printer isn’t turned 90 degrees. Just more aesthetically pleasing in my office to have it face forward
Very clear again and all the extra shots look great. With the screen firmware you can actually update it with the SD card and edit the bmp (image) files for custom splash screens but you could also rotate your bed levelling icons if you really wanted to match your enclosure.
Ooh, I like that idea. Thanks, I'll look into it👍
One of the most underrated channel
Love the content ❤
Thanks Ink, that's really great to read.
@@RickyImpey thanks for getting back so soon so if the front panel is a c shape the top & bottom legs the drawing shows the distance between are they both equal or different?
Excellent work, I have been sitting in front of mine last hour before seeing this video , designing an enclosure in my head and came to same conclusion, I'm moving the panel as it is located in a very bad place especially when creating seperate zones. Cheers!
Thanks Peter, I still haven't seen a better way to do it. I think through the summer, the hottest I've seen the probe inside the base read was 29°C. That's with the heat chamber getting up to 40°C easily without additional heating.
Nicely illustrated.
Mate, I reckon what you have done for the money is as good as can be. I'm throwing tons of cash at my Ikea / Openbuild 2020 hybrid but you have not only validated my ideas but also will save me time re the details you have quoted. Love your work!
Great to hear Peter, I like to keep things as simple as possible to get the job done.👍
Amazing enclosure you built here, but in my opinion, it's missing one of the most important things people often overlook in the 3d print community...some kind of FIRE suppression system. Trust me, the chances of it happening are low but when it happens you will shit bricks. I didnt really worry about it for a long time but after researching into this issue and especially for creality printers, there are so many things that can go bad and cause a fire. If I were you, I would atleast get little fire suppression pouch that goes off once a critical temperature is hit (usually 150C or higher). They're like 30 dollars and you can attach it in your enclosure with velcro strips. Otherwise, this build is amazing, but just needs the things that can save your house from burning down.
Hi, yes you are right, it is very important. I run a couple of safety systems, I have an automatic fire extinguisher and a thermal fuse controlled cut out circuit that kills power if any part of the machine gets warmer than I want it.
Great build, well done mate! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍
I use a raspberry pi with the Octoprint firmware then use Cura with the Octoprint plugin. This enables you to send prints to the rpi from your computer. Alternatively just send your gcode file straight to the Rpi Octoprint server.
I ended up buying an enclosure)before seeing this really good video, I may add. I do like how you had thought about the electronics over heating, . Something I had not thought of, although I am not sure they would actually over heat. However it is better to err on the safe side so consequently I will be making a base similar to a laptop cooling stand.
Going through the video I don't see where the door came from, maybe I just missed it.
Maybe you could do a video on how you temperature control the inside of the case. I have been looking at case fans and filters along with smaller bore pipe for venting to the outside.
Great effort, thanks a lot.
PLA doesn't have harmful fumes but it does produce harmful dust.
I have completed two versions of your amazing enclosures and I think I've made some minor improvements the second time. I'm not sure if its polite to mention this in these comments and am grateful for your help so really don't want to offend, but if you're interested I'd be happy to share, but am unsure how.
No problem Charles, I'd love to hear any improvements so I can share with the group. Drop me an email if you like rickyimpeyyt@gmail.com 👍
Charles. can you share your improvements with the rest of us? I built the enclosure and am about to finish so, now, or never :)
Good morning Ricky are you able to do an enclosure for an Ender3
Great build! Im building one myself for my ender 3, but I want it to be fire "proof", im thinking about using alluminium or iron(not steel) +-3mm thick, which material would you sugest taking in consideration fireproof and heat isolation? Thanks!
🤔Hmm, making something completely fireproof is very difficult. I think that your best goal is to slow any fire down so that you get time to react but I am far from an expert. I always have a fire extinguisher and an automatic 'fireball' in my enclosure. The most fire retardant sheet materials are going to be cement board or a metal like you say. I'd join the sheet with aluminium angle instead of wood. A fireproof metal box won't insulate well though. This may need some more thought.....
Will an Ender 3 Max Neo fit in this enclosure
Would a thinner thickness of plywood affect the integrity of the enclosure?
The short answer would be yes but it's not something that couldn't be overcome. The only issue you would really have would be warping. You may just have to add a few strengthening battens or angle pieces in a couple of places. You may get less heat retention with a thinner material too. I would still build it though if you're happy solving a few niggles.
I really love your design but plywood is expensive in my country do you think some kind of styrofoam could be yust as good or not?
It will work, it just won't be as strong.
Checking in a year later, I didn't see a part 3 or 4 in your videos. Are you still planning on making those? I'm interested in building this, but I think I would want to make sure I can have venting.
Apologies for not making more videos with the CR10S Pro and the enclosure. The main reason is that I just don't use my CR10S Pro very much any more. I have quite a few printers now and I find the CR10S Pro doesn't really keep up with its 8 bit board. I may do a klipper setup and bring it back or possibly swap a different printer into the enclosure for the colder months. The enclosure has always been great but unfortunately I can't say the same for the printer.
I’m searching for the insulation. Everything I can find has an upper limit on the temperature of 85 C. Is that high enough? What is the product you used?
Hi Charles, that sounds like the stuff I used. Yes ideally it would tolerate a higher temperature but I don't plan on taking my enclosure above 70°C particularly. The insulation helps keep the temperature in the enclosure in the winter but if you plan to go to high temps, or you're concerned, maybe consider leaving it off. I think anything that tolerates higher temperatures can get quite expensive.
Hey Ricky, do you happen to know if these dimensions for this build will work for the standard CR-10s? I understand a couple modifications might need to be made but I was just curious before I jump into this.
I don't know for sure but it looks like the standard CR-10 will be slightly smaller as the electronics are not in the base. But in answer, I don't know sorry.
@@RickyImpey No need to apologize, I think you are correct based on my current measurements today. Thanks for the reply and the tutorial. 5 star work!
Thanks for the project could you tell me the width of each front panel legs the drawing only has the distance between thanks
Hi Andy, sorry, I'm not at home until Monday to fire up the CAD, I'm not 100% sure what measurement you need. There aren't really any legs, do you mean the battens that sit inside the front panel connecting it to the sides?
@@RickyImpey Thanks from the reply so the front panel is like a square c the top & bottom legs the distance between is 575 from a total of 672 are they equal ?
Ah, I see what you mean. No, they are not equal. I will check the measurements on Monday but the lower section below the door is level with the height of the printer base. The top is a little less important from memory but obviously you can work this out buy adding the printer base height to the gap dimension. Hope this helps.
@@RickyImpey thanks
@@RickyImpey could you still please check the measurements ? cheers
I can’t the dimensions for the door. ??
Hi Charles, it's an IKEA Besta door, links in the description. They are 600 X 640mm and approx. 20mm thick.