THANK YOU for watching all the way to the end. Make sure to hit the comments below and tell me everything I could have done better! I love it! (Seriously!)
Really nice enclosure. I have gone around and around with custom versus off the shelf solutions. My biggest issue is how often I move machines around. Plan was to measure all printers and see if I could find a common size to base the enclosure cubby’s off of. 😊
I’m not sure how large your intake hole is, but for a passive intake, you will want the size to be significantly larger than the fan/exhaust side. Otherwise a fan on the intake side will help balance. A slightly negative pressure inside the cabinet is ideal to prevent any nasties from getting pushed out too.
@@DoRC If there's only a fan on the exhaust side, there's always going to be some degree of negative pressure in the chamber. As the intake size increases, the pressure differential becomes smaller, and air flow rate increases until the fan's maximum flow rate is achieved.
For printing ASA and ABS, ideally you'd want 50-60C enclosure temperature I believe. This is why the Voron electronics are outside of the enclosure and not inside it. But I can see that to move the electronics outside for the cr10 and prusa might get kind of tricky. I am also not certain how fire proof that enclosure is. You do have oxygen flowing in through the holes you've drilled for the air inlet. With fire extinguishers, you can get automatic fire extinguishers but they trigger at like 60C so they're a little too sensitive. You could mount them outside the enclosure though if the enclosure ever got engulfed in flames.
The enclosure I have my Prusa in maxes out at about 35C-36C, and my Voron parts have been turning out just fine. I broke one of my test cubes with a couple of adjustable wrenches, and it didn't break clean at a layer line, but left a more jagged break, so adhesion doesn't seem to be an issue.
@@netpackrat the reason for the higher temperature isn't to do with adhesion. It's to do with warping and internal stresses. The Voron parts are pretty small so that's less likely to be an issue. As you try to print larger parts, higher temperatures reduce warping and reduce the internal stresses
Great video, sir! Very informative. I do have to mention a plugin for octoprint that I've used in the past before moving that allows you to use a tasmota flashed smart outlet to automatically turn on the printer when a new print is being started and turn off the printer after a set amount of time of being idle. I don't remember the name off the top of my head, but it's pretty easy to find in the octoprint plugins.
Smart plugs are a wonderful addition to 3D printing. I use them with the Octoprint PSU Control as well as PSU Control - Home Assistant plugins. Those make it super easy to have the printers turn off automatically after a print is done, and the printer has been idle for 30 minutes. If you use Cura, you can even use the Octoprint plugin in Cura to have the printer turn on automatically when you send g-code.
Using smart plugs to get data on power consumption is a great idea. I use smart plugs to control my bearded dragons’ enclosures and I love having everything on timers and the ability to control it even if I’m not home.
YES! I was hyped for this vid! The lighting tips were immensely helpful with the enclosure I’m making. I was literally going to work on lighting today, thank you!
You should look at the prefilters for the hepa filters. You can probably make a bigger hole with a fan if you add a piece of cardboard that can flip when it opens
For your external venting of the enclosure you use a 60 mm fan. Smaller fans tend to be louder and less powerful so you may be better upgrading to a 120 mm noctua fan.
Not sure if you use Octoprint, but there is a plugin that can be configured to automatically turn off your smart plugs after your print completes and your hot end cools to a specific temperature. This allows the fan on your hot end to run for a while to prevent heat creep. 👍
I just got a Snapmaker J1 and I'm looking at getting a resin printer. Saw your cabinets in an earlier video and knew I wanted to see how you made them cause they're perfect for my space. Keep up the great videos!
Thank you for this! We've been wondering about your enclosure. To me, this is one of the better one's I've seen. I'm going a cheaper route for mine but am going to take a few ideas from yours, like keeping the temp close to 35 all around. I don't use any materials that require massive amounts of heat and will certainly be adding a few holes for air-flow. Thanks for your videos!
This video was very interesting as I am about to build my own enclosure. Mine needs to have different specs to yours since I will use mine to print polycarbonate, nylon and polypropylene. So it needs to be capable of higher temperatures and as such the main board, pi and psu will be mounted outside the enclosure. The enclosure will pretty much become part of my printer which is an ender 3 pro since I will just pull off the main board case and mount it under the enclosure and just drill a hole for the wires so I don’t need to deal with extending them all. I will probably also power the pi from the printer and add a relay to control the printers power from the pi. A few good ideas I saw from your video is the lighting, I was just going to add a few led strips but may rethink that now. Another good idea was the tool holders, it would be good to mount all the tools on one side (outside) of the enclosure. You gave me an idea for setting up my camera as well, I will just use a flexible mount and have it outside the enclosure but move it into position when I need it. I might need to rethink my cooling though as I planned to use a 120mm fan vented out of the enclosure through a hepa and carbon filter, that might not be enough cooling. But I can always open the door if I need to since the parts that would need to cooling are mainly just PLA. My plans for the cooling controller are just a microcontroller and temperature sensor, the fan will be constantly on slowly but will speed up as it needs to cool the enclosure. You have definitely given me some ideas and things to think about so thank you.
@The Next Layer You could use a helium tank and small pump to activate on fire detection using a decent smoke alarm as the sensor, we used a beefed up version for a data server rack.
Great video! Just make sure with the printers you shut down the raspberry pi before disconnecting the power. It’s more important on the v2.4 since klipper stores everything on the pi and a corrupt sd card is a nightmare. There are other ways to turn off power to a klipper machine, like the home assistant plug in, installing an SSR between PSU and mainboard so you can use the pi’s gpio and moonraker to turn the rest of the machine off and on while keeping the pi on. Other than that it’s a great video.
@@thenextlayer Nice! now you know, that would SUCK if you woke up one day to a corrupted v2.4 rpi. There are definitely ways to do what you're trying to do. the easiest is to use an external power source for the pi and the smart socket for the printer.
Recommendations for enclosures that don't trap any heat? Don't want to do anything beyond pla for the foreseeable future. But I also have a toddler. Currently I move the printer when I'm not using it or my toddler isn't asleep
Tips for temp control, first is don’t run those lights unless you have to, they produce more heat than you think. Second is that those style of fans are not designed for pulling/pushing air through a restriction like a filter, they are made for unrestricted air movement, a vane style is more suited. Lastly, plumb a duct to the lower chamber to pull air directly from that chamber itself, as well as a duct for the top chamber.
two words: stereo cabinet. glass front, adjustable shelves, thin particle board back that's easy to cut or drill for cables or ventilation and the top makes a nice work surface.
I'm not good at flow dynamics but I'm going to ad a vent pipe with a 4 inch duct fan coming out of mine with a window outlet for printing ABS. On the inlet I'm going to put a carbon filter to stop any dust or anything from going into it.
to save on external air filtering and keep the noise to a minimum, you could instead install a closed-loop external air radiator (similar to a water cooling loop in a PC that transfers the heat from the inside of the case to the external radiator - only, instead of water, you would simply circulate the inside air through an external heat exchanger). Depending on the size of the external radiator and the amount of heat needing to be dumped, you could perhaps get away with no outside fans, and if they prove necessary - they would be much bigger and thus slow-spinning/quiet. Obviously, the diameter of the pipe/radiator would need to be appropriately bigger, for the air-to-air heat exchange to be effective. Something to research/experiment.
I printed out one of those ball bearing spool holders for my Bear upgraded Prusa, and I found that it spun too easily. The filament would over-run and get tangled around the holder. I machined a couple of plain bushings out of delrin to replace the bearings, which made a significant improvement, although I think a little more friction would still be beneficial with some spools.
I would add a second fan to the exhaust, the biggest restriction is your filter and add a bit of dust filter at the inlet to stop dust from entering the enclosure. Great setup
I would first try stacking a second fan on top and see what happens. Or a second vent system, possibly with a higher temperature switch. A smoke detector might also be a good idea. A server fan, while noisy, would do this well. An Arduino with a temperature sensor, the hotter the temperature, the faster it spins would be the best solution. This is what I am planning for my enclosure, but I have server fans lying around and my printer is in the basement away from people.
Now that I own a BL printer every time I see an ender 3 or similar printing in the background of a video it always looks like it's in slow motion. It's hard to believe I printed that slowly for such a long time.
This man is out here saying that paying more than a new P1P for 5 walls and a door “isn’t that expensive” I’m currently making an enclosure out of plywood as well. The single sheet i needed goes for 20-40$ and i had it on hand. I happen to have a sheet of plexiglass i pulled out of a forklift going to the salvage yard at work. So if you consider the fact that i was making money while finding this plexiglass, and apart from air filters, hinges and seals i have everything else including tools on hand or available to be scrapped from something else. i still haven’t spent anything, and i already have a draft-safe box with a see-through door (well lid for now i guess)
Good stuff. I like everything about it except for one thing. I put this to you, and the rest of the crew chimin in. Enclosing everything including the electronics? I’m an IT guy and aside from PC’s, we put servers and such things into climate controlled, cooled rooms. I haven’t built an enclosure yet, plan on it, but have also looked at many solutions that move the motherboard, power supply, screen, etc… outside of the enclosure. I guess my question in the end is, wouldn’t enclosing it all shorten the life of said electronics? Thanks for any response. Again I really like the work here and there are so many great features you incorporated. Thanks!
@@thenextlayer Thank you. Nice response. I haven’t looked at Bambu that close up but, Voron, etc… puts the important bits outside the enclosure and I’m guessing of course that the folks over at Bambu did the same.
Hey , it matters less what design you choose , what matters more is what type of noctua fans you have . That should decide what you do. Hether its a flow fan or pressure fan . Noctua has alot of details to each fan.
Thanks for the great and in-depth video! Two small questions though; what are the inner dimensions of the closet/enclosure? I am talking to a carpenter to have something similar done with my printer. And how are you controlling the "when the temperature goes above 35c, turn on the fans"? is there an additional arduino/ESP device controlling it?
Check my video on accessories to keep on hand to level up prints. It’s a temperature switch. Mine is 58x65 inside. Too big now that I don’t really use my CR10
@@thenextlayer Thank you for your answer! I have seen that video in the past, but did not catch that it automagically turns on the fan at set temps, perfect :) Hope to have an enclosure almost as nice as yours soon
Would you mind providing more info on the filtration components? (fan, switch, filter) The aliexpress links are broken for me. Particularly which filter or at least the dimensions? From the STL I'm getting 62mm x 110mm, but not finding much of that size on amazon
I have the Sunlu one, but I had to heavily modify it to make it decent. Now, I have an EIBOS one, and it's REALLY good. Check out My Tech Fun's review, they showed how it destroyed all others.
Did you make a blueprint for the carpenter or did he build everything based on the information you gave him? I'm from Israel too🎉🎉🎉❤ I would appreciate a recommendation on the carpenter who did it for you😊
$700 for an enclosure sounds crazy, but thanks to being a woodworker as well I know lumber prices and that's not bad for custom work. I might get away with building it for myself for around 200 to 300 if I swap out the glass for plexi.
Great video man, watched it all the way through! Loads of interesting topics for me, thanks! Check out the T-Series of Blazecut for fire extinguishing!
1. While not super fire safe, putting your printer on a NBR foam yoga mat or kneeling pad will likely work just as well for noise and vibration. 2. BLAZECUT for the fire extingiusher tho you might want something to stop from blowing sparks out the bottom hole. 3. Painting the interior a lighter color will make the lights work better
Closed too hot for pla. So doors open on pla. Abs/asa at 35 degree may fine for small thingiverse shit. Print a 10x10x10 thin walls abs part and your parts are toast. That leaves only petg to print with closed doors. 🤷♂️
Bla-bla-bla Give me 700-800$ for kitchen box, without glass door. Other constructions are piece of wood and glue, but my is perfect. - That what I hear. Is there internal preheater? -NO Or may be 4-5 spool storage with heating and Dehydrating? - NO Is there some electronics that make it autonomous? NO only online controll, or monitoring. Most of parts are opensource on thinigverse, or cheap as Sonoff instruments, Or can be done in Any local furniture production. So where from you got such price? I agree it looks Nice, more compact and organized but not even close to Good or Semi-Professional. It would be great choice for home makers, witch would be ready to correct it for their own workspace and printers. So if I would be ready to pay 800$ and be ready to correct it - when I can draw looks close box and get it ideal for me for less money? In both situations I will need to assemble it for myself. So your help is in: Make project; mill it for me; send it to me. But stop. Project you made not for me? you made it for yourself, and to make content on your channel - it cant cost much, it is not exclusive or personally modified. Send it and mill it - You know I afraid in my city it cost less then in your, And shipment will cost more than product. So I see it could be interesting Only to by Blueprints, to watch "how to" assemble it on your chanell and stay in contact how I modify it - giving to you additional content. Of course some people can be ready to by KIT. But I am sure they wouldn't be ready to loose their time in corrections and wrong assembling - to be alpha testers, for their own money. For me your monetizing idea is a bit crazy.
Sorry I don't understand 80% of what you wrote but you're right my enclosure isn't the perfect one, it's just the perfect one for me in my home office.
THANK YOU for watching all the way to the end. Make sure to hit the comments below and tell me everything I could have done better! I love it! (Seriously!)
1
Really nice enclosure. I have gone around and around with custom versus off the shelf solutions. My biggest issue is how often I move machines around. Plan was to measure all printers and see if I could find a common size to base the enclosure cubby’s off of. 😊
Yeah, I feel you. I will have that issue if and when I move to a new studio :)
Caught you there😊. Wish you and your family a big Merry XMAS 🎄🎄
ModBot; I bought the Wham Bam enclosure based partly off your recommendation, and I have been fairly happy with it. Thanks.
@@netpackrat oh man I love that thing. For a quick setup to print with higher temp it works really 😊
I’m not sure how large your intake hole is, but for a passive intake, you will want the size to be significantly larger than the fan/exhaust side. Otherwise a fan on the intake side will help balance. A slightly negative pressure inside the cabinet is ideal to prevent any nasties from getting pushed out too.
To create a negative pressure on the inside wouldn't you want the intake to be smaller than the exhaust?
@@DoRC If there's only a fan on the exhaust side, there's always going to be some degree of negative pressure in the chamber. As the intake size increases, the pressure differential becomes smaller, and air flow rate increases until the fan's maximum flow rate is achieved.
For printing ASA and ABS, ideally you'd want 50-60C enclosure temperature I believe. This is why the Voron electronics are outside of the enclosure and not inside it. But I can see that to move the electronics outside for the cr10 and prusa might get kind of tricky.
I am also not certain how fire proof that enclosure is. You do have oxygen flowing in through the holes you've drilled for the air inlet.
With fire extinguishers, you can get automatic fire extinguishers but they trigger at like 60C so they're a little too sensitive. You could mount them outside the enclosure though if the enclosure ever got engulfed in flames.
Ah, wow, didn't know the temp should be that high. Thanks for the tips
The enclosure I have my Prusa in maxes out at about 35C-36C, and my Voron parts have been turning out just fine. I broke one of my test cubes with a couple of adjustable wrenches, and it didn't break clean at a layer line, but left a more jagged break, so adhesion doesn't seem to be an issue.
@@netpackrat the reason for the higher temperature isn't to do with adhesion. It's to do with warping and internal stresses. The Voron parts are pretty small so that's less likely to be an issue. As you try to print larger parts, higher temperatures reduce warping and reduce the internal stresses
Great video, sir! Very informative. I do have to mention a plugin for octoprint that I've used in the past before moving that allows you to use a tasmota flashed smart outlet to automatically turn on the printer when a new print is being started and turn off the printer after a set amount of time of being idle. I don't remember the name off the top of my head, but it's pretty easy to find in the octoprint plugins.
Ooooh smart, on it
Smart plugs are a wonderful addition to 3D printing. I use them with the Octoprint PSU Control as well as PSU Control - Home Assistant plugins.
Those make it super easy to have the printers turn off automatically after a print is done, and the printer has been idle for 30 minutes. If you use Cura, you can even use the Octoprint plugin in Cura to have the printer turn on automatically when you send g-code.
Using smart plugs to get data on power consumption is a great idea. I use smart plugs to control my bearded dragons’ enclosures and I love having everything on timers and the ability to control it even if I’m not home.
YES! I was hyped for this vid! The lighting tips were immensely helpful with the enclosure I’m making. I was literally going to work on lighting today, thank you!
NICE! I'm so glad
You should look at the prefilters for the hepa filters. You can probably make a bigger hole with a fan if you add a piece of cardboard that can flip when it opens
For your external venting of the enclosure you use a 60 mm fan. Smaller fans tend to be louder and less powerful so you may be better upgrading to a 120 mm noctua fan.
Not sure if you use Octoprint, but there is a plugin that can be configured to automatically turn off your smart plugs after your print completes and your hot end cools to a specific temperature. This allows the fan on your hot end to run for a while to prevent heat creep. 👍
OOOH, cool, Definitely gonna check that out, thanks :)
yah, it's called PSU control. I use it on my ender 3
I love the shout out! Your channel convinced me to start filming content :)
You should!
I just got a Snapmaker J1 and I'm looking at getting a resin printer. Saw your cabinets in an earlier video and knew I wanted to see how you made them cause they're perfect for my space. Keep up the great videos!
Nice. Glad it’s helpful. Much more coming soon.
Thank you for this! We've been wondering about your enclosure. To me, this is one of the better one's I've seen. I'm going a cheaper route for mine but am going to take a few ideas from yours, like keeping the temp close to 35 all around. I don't use any materials that require massive amounts of heat and will certainly be adding a few holes for air-flow. Thanks for your videos!
Glad it was helpful
I got a ender 3 for Christmas . Thanks for all your helpful tips !
Congrats! Awesome, make sure you're subbed, lots of other stuff coming soon :) And check out my older videos.
@@thenextlayerno worries I watched almost all of them 🙂
Nice content!👍 BTW, a big Merry XMAS to you and your family from PCBWay 🎄🎄🎄🎄
Thanks!!!
I'ts nice and refreshing to see someone digging deep into the closet not just coming out of one. :)
LOL! Thanks for a good laugh :)
This video was very interesting as I am about to build my own enclosure. Mine needs to have different specs to yours since I will use mine to print polycarbonate, nylon and polypropylene. So it needs to be capable of higher temperatures and as such the main board, pi and psu will be mounted outside the enclosure. The enclosure will pretty much become part of my printer which is an ender 3 pro since I will just pull off the main board case and mount it under the enclosure and just drill a hole for the wires so I don’t need to deal with extending them all. I will probably also power the pi from the printer and add a relay to control the printers power from the pi.
A few good ideas I saw from your video is the lighting, I was just going to add a few led strips but may rethink that now. Another good idea was the tool holders, it would be good to mount all the tools on one side (outside) of the enclosure. You gave me an idea for setting up my camera as well, I will just use a flexible mount and have it outside the enclosure but move it into position when I need it. I might need to rethink my cooling though as I planned to use a 120mm fan vented out of the enclosure through a hepa and carbon filter, that might not be enough cooling. But I can always open the door if I need to since the parts that would need to cooling are mainly just PLA. My plans for the cooling controller are just a microcontroller and temperature sensor, the fan will be constantly on slowly but will speed up as it needs to cool the enclosure.
You have definitely given me some ideas and things to think about so thank you.
@The Next Layer
You could use a helium tank and small pump to activate on fire detection using a decent smoke alarm as the sensor, we used a beefed up version for a data server rack.
Your should make a video about filtration more detailed information 👌
Great video! Just make sure with the printers you shut down the raspberry pi before disconnecting the power. It’s more important on the v2.4 since klipper stores everything on the pi and a corrupt sd card is a nightmare. There are other ways to turn off power to a klipper machine, like the home assistant plug in, installing an SSR between PSU and mainboard so you can use the pi’s gpio and moonraker to turn the rest of the machine off and on while keeping the pi on. Other than that it’s a great video.
Oh, yikes. I didn't know that. I never do it lol. Thanks for letting me know
@@thenextlayer Nice! now you know, that would SUCK if you woke up one day to a corrupted v2.4 rpi. There are definitely ways to do what you're trying to do. the easiest is to use an external power source for the pi and the smart socket for the printer.
Turning on the fans at 30 degrees is a robust and elegant solution. Simple - but effective.
Recommendations for enclosures that don't trap any heat? Don't want to do anything beyond pla for the foreseeable future. But I also have a toddler. Currently I move the printer when I'm not using it or my toddler isn't asleep
Tips for temp control, first is don’t run those lights unless you have to, they produce more heat than you think.
Second is that those style of fans are not designed for pulling/pushing air through a restriction like a filter, they are made for unrestricted air movement, a vane style is more suited.
Lastly, plumb a duct to the lower chamber to pull air directly from that chamber itself, as well as a duct for the top chamber.
Centrifugal fan design is what I meant, my apologies.
Nice, these are good tips, thank you
two words: stereo cabinet. glass front, adjustable shelves, thin particle board back that's easy to cut or drill for cables or ventilation and the top makes a nice work surface.
Genius
I'm not good at flow dynamics but I'm going to ad a vent pipe with a 4 inch duct fan coming out of mine with a window outlet for printing ABS. On the inlet I'm going to put a carbon filter to stop any dust or anything from going into it.
It's great to see 👀 you are ALMOST finished building your cabinet it can be your new-year resolution 😀 👍🙏😋
LOL as soon as I finished the video I realized my Voron won't fit... soo..
Can you link to the UA-camr who has the cabinet at friends apartment? That cabinet look like just what I need!
Search martinson manufacturing! Older videos
to save on external air filtering and keep the noise to a minimum, you could instead install a closed-loop external air radiator (similar to a water cooling loop in a PC that transfers the heat from the inside of the case to the external radiator - only, instead of water, you would simply circulate the inside air through an external heat exchanger). Depending on the size of the external radiator and the amount of heat needing to be dumped, you could perhaps get away with no outside fans, and if they prove necessary - they would be much bigger and thus slow-spinning/quiet. Obviously, the diameter of the pipe/radiator would need to be appropriately bigger, for the air-to-air heat exchange to be effective. Something to research/experiment.
Man WHY didn't i think about smart plugs, damn thats a good idea thank you
I printed out one of those ball bearing spool holders for my Bear upgraded Prusa, and I found that it spun too easily. The filament would over-run and get tangled around the holder. I machined a couple of plain bushings out of delrin to replace the bearings, which made a significant improvement, although I think a little more friction would still be beneficial with some spools.
Oh interesting!
I would add a second fan to the exhaust, the biggest restriction is your filter and add a bit of dust filter at the inlet to stop dust from entering the enclosure.
Great setup
Thanks, this is a good tip - but how... in-line?
I would first try stacking a second fan on top and see what happens. Or a second vent system, possibly with a higher temperature switch.
A smoke detector might also be a good idea.
A server fan, while noisy, would do this well. An Arduino with a temperature sensor, the hotter the temperature, the faster it spins would be the best solution. This is what I am planning for my enclosure, but I have server fans lying around and my printer is in the basement away from people.
Now that I own a BL printer every time I see an ender 3 or similar printing in the background of a video it always looks like it's in slow motion. It's hard to believe I printed that slowly for such a long time.
Super excited for the Voron series next week!
Yeeeaasahhhh
This man is out here saying that paying more than a new P1P for 5 walls and a door “isn’t that expensive”
I’m currently making an enclosure out of plywood as well.
The single sheet i needed goes for 20-40$ and i had it on hand. I happen to have a sheet of plexiglass i pulled out of a forklift going to the salvage yard at work.
So if you consider the fact that i was making money while finding this plexiglass, and apart from air filters, hinges and seals i have everything else including tools on hand or available to be scrapped from something else. i still haven’t spent anything, and i already have a draft-safe box with a see-through door (well lid for now i guess)
Plywood? Are you also the kind of person who would repair their BMW or Tesla with duct tape…?
@@thenextlayerIn the first minute of the video you say that your enclosure is made from plywood. Repaired any Teslas today my namebrother? 😂
Bowden tubes (like showing respect) ? I always heard it as Bowden tubes (like bow and arrow)
Yes!!!!
Good stuff. I like everything about it except for one thing. I put this to you, and the rest of the crew chimin in. Enclosing everything including the electronics? I’m an IT guy and aside from PC’s, we put servers and such things into climate controlled, cooled rooms. I haven’t built an enclosure yet, plan on it, but have also looked at many solutions that move the motherboard, power supply, screen, etc… outside of the enclosure. I guess my question in the end is, wouldn’t enclosing it all shorten the life of said electronics? Thanks for any response. Again I really like the work here and there are so many great features you incorporated. Thanks!
Yep this was far from ideal. Fortunately I've since moved on to enclosed printers :)
@@thenextlayer Thank you. Nice response. I haven’t looked at Bambu that close up but, Voron, etc… puts the important bits outside the enclosure and I’m guessing of course that the folks over at Bambu did the same.
Neat.
How about fire prevention?..
Thanks for the tips, especially with the light advises..
Greetings from the Galilee.
Hey , it matters less what design you choose , what matters more is what type of noctua fans you have . That should decide what you do.
Hether its a flow fan or pressure fan . Noctua has alot of details to each fan.
Thanks
Great video! I really enjoyed it! Got some great tips for a future project!
Thanks
Has anyone tried Carbon underfloor heating wire to heat your boxes? That stuffs so cheap compared to heat mats.
You mentioned someone who did a tour of a print farm they housed in friends apartments. Who was it? I’d like to check that out!
martinson manufacturing
I might have missed something... but octoprint with a touchscreen lcd ... requires more information! :o
Octodash!
Thanks for the great and in-depth video!
Two small questions though; what are the inner dimensions of the closet/enclosure? I am talking to a carpenter to have something similar done with my printer.
And how are you controlling the "when the temperature goes above 35c, turn on the fans"? is there an additional arduino/ESP device controlling it?
Check my video on accessories to keep on hand to level up prints. It’s a temperature switch. Mine is 58x65 inside. Too big now that I don’t really use my CR10
@@thenextlayer Thank you for your answer!
I have seen that video in the past, but did not catch that it automagically turns on the fan at set temps, perfect :)
Hope to have an enclosure almost as nice as yours soon
Would you mind providing more info on the filtration components? (fan, switch, filter) The aliexpress links are broken for me. Particularly which filter or at least the dimensions? From the STL I'm getting 62mm x 110mm, but not finding much of that size on amazon
Ahhh, nm. Found it all on the original thingiverse for the housing
What filment dryer do you use?
I have the Sunlu one, but I had to heavily modify it to make it decent. Now, I have an EIBOS one, and it's REALLY good. Check out My Tech Fun's review, they showed how it destroyed all others.
@@thenextlayer Thank you for you help, Do you have the Sunlu S1 or S2 dryer
Is it true ABS is really toxic or does it just give you a headache?
Both!
“It will spin as smooth as a baby’s bottom”😂😂😂
How many babies do you see with spinning bottoms?
Just had a newborn and his butt is soooooo smooth
@@thenextlayer but, was the butt spinning?
Did you make a blueprint for the carpenter or did he build everything based on the information you gave him?
I'm from Israel too🎉🎉🎉❤
I would appreciate a recommendation on the carpenter who did it for you😊
נו לא הגיע הזמן שתצא מהארון :)
חחחחח
$700 for an enclosure sounds crazy, but thanks to being a woodworker as well I know lumber prices and that's not bad for custom work. I might get away with building it for myself for around 200 to 300 if I swap out the glass for plexi.
Nice, thanks for validating :)
Did you ever say what smart plugs you are using?
AliExpress ones. Aubess. We will out links in description.
Great video man, watched it all the way through! Loads of interesting topics for me, thanks! Check out the T-Series of Blazecut for fire extinguishing!
Thanks! Will do!
Heads up, your discord invite link seems to have expired or somehow become invalid
Oh snap. Thanks. We will check it!
Can you connect Obico to Beagle cam? I just got one.
nah, you need a full Octoprint setup to run Obico I'm afraid
@@thenextlayer I hope ..... one day ... in the NeaR future Obico... will be.... able for Beagle Camera
Sold that custom cabinet yet?
1. While not super fire safe, putting your printer on a NBR foam yoga mat or kneeling pad will likely work just as well for noise and vibration.
2. BLAZECUT for the fire extingiusher tho you might want something to stop from blowing sparks out the bottom hole.
3. Painting the interior a lighter color will make the lights work better
כמה אתה מוכר את הארון?
1000?
dang I was just in Israel
Closed too hot for pla. So doors open on pla.
Abs/asa at 35 degree may fine for small thingiverse shit.
Print a 10x10x10 thin walls abs part and your parts are toast.
That leaves only petg to print with closed doors. 🤷♂️
Yep, I just printed the removable door hinges, no time to put them on today though
Bla-bla-bla Give me 700-800$ for kitchen box, without glass door. Other constructions are piece of wood and glue, but my is perfect. - That what I hear.
Is there internal preheater? -NO
Or may be 4-5 spool storage with heating and Dehydrating? - NO
Is there some electronics that make it autonomous? NO only online controll, or monitoring.
Most of parts are opensource on thinigverse, or cheap as Sonoff instruments, Or can be done in Any local furniture production.
So where from you got such price?
I agree it looks Nice, more compact and organized but not even close to Good or Semi-Professional.
It would be great choice for home makers, witch would be ready to correct it for their own workspace and printers.
So if I would be ready to pay 800$ and be ready to correct it - when I can draw looks close box and get it ideal for me for less money? In both situations I will need to assemble it for myself.
So your help is in: Make project; mill it for me; send it to me.
But stop. Project you made not for me? you made it for yourself, and to make content on your channel - it cant cost much, it is not exclusive or personally modified.
Send it and mill it - You know I afraid in my city it cost less then in your, And shipment will cost more than product.
So I see it could be interesting Only to by Blueprints, to watch "how to" assemble it on your chanell and stay in contact how I modify it - giving to you additional content.
Of course some people can be ready to by KIT. But I am sure they wouldn't be ready to loose their time in corrections and wrong assembling - to be alpha testers, for their own money.
For me your monetizing idea is a bit crazy.
Sorry I don't understand 80% of what you wrote but you're right my enclosure isn't the perfect one, it's just the perfect one for me in my home office.
אתה ישראלי?!?!
בטח
@@thenextlayerמדהים אתה עושה תוכן נהדר כיף לדעת שיש יוצרי תוכן כאלה מישראל אני גם חובב הדפסות תלת מימד, אנדר 3 בחדר שעובדת ללא הפסקה
@thenextlayer your discord link is expired so can you just replace it with the new one in the next video
Fixed!!