CR10S Pro V2 upgrades that make a big difference in producing quality, and successful prints.
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2024
- The 3D printing equipment that I use to create the V3 Vapor Blast Gun kit.
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The SUNLU Filament I use (link gets you 10% off everything)- www.sunlu.com/products/sunlu-...
3D Printer CR10S Pro V2 - amzn.to/3unIJot
Upgrade parts for CR10S Pro V2:
Wham Bam flexible bed system - whambam3d.com/collections/310...
Micro Swiss all-metal hot end - amzn.to/3mefCjN
Stronger bed leveling springs - amzn.to/3CNdJkn
Anti-backlash adaptor - amzn.to/3i1ydOw
Voltage step-down buck converter (10-pack) - amzn.to/3lWagcL
Noctua 40 x 20 mm fans (you need 2 for CR10S Pro V2) - amzn.to/3o5314N
Noctua 40 x 10 mm fans (you need 2 for CR10S Pro V2) - amzn.to/3ubK1CF
Raspberry Pie 3 with power adaptor - amzn.to/3AIaY3d
Octoprint software for the Raspberry Pi - octoprint.org/
Custom fan duct .STL file - drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Lower filament guide - www.thingiverse.com/thing:314...
Upper filament guide - www.thingiverse.com/thing:461...
UA-cam resources I used for the upgrades above:
Noctua fan upgrade - • Creality Cr10S PRO upg...
Noctua fan upgrade using voltage step down - • CR-10s Pro Ultra Quiet...
Stock hot end fix - • Simple HOTEND FIX for ... - Наука та технологія
I feel that peanut in the back is the real upgrade.
Hello Robjob, Thank you for commenting. Lol, that peanut got more attention than I could've imagined. If you have a CR10S Pro V2 then linked below is the part that was born from the peanut.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19MeCqTzGpgDYw9-dC61_TZAc8KnSqU7o
Best of luck with your mods!
Wow, well done. I appreciate the time you spent linking everything. I remember back when I was modding a monoprice maker select v2, I would have given anything to have a video showing the ropes like this. I learned a lot wrestling that machine and it is still printing as we speak. I ordered a Prusa XL, then once they pushed the delivery date back to next year, I decided to get a gap printer. The pro V2 should be here in a week. Now armed with your video, I’ll be ready.
Hello Bowieinc, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. 3D printing has been an interesting journey for me as well. I purchased a Monoprice Select Mini V2 for my kids on December 2018. It sat gathering dust until March 3rd 2021 when my wife asked me to sell it on eBay. I've been learning more about 3D printing ever since. It's one of the most amazing tools ever created.
Best of luck with your journey!
I love the peanut upgrade! Thanks, man! Well done.
Hello Mitchell, Thank you for commenting. The peanut proof of concept is what I call it. Linked below is the part that came from it. If you have a CR10S Pro V1 or V2 the .STL file will keep the bed wire from hanging up on the edge of the metal cover.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19PZOHD4Y67q0gvQx7_PYfHWgEjLVtqTn
Best of luck with your mods!
Awesome content dude thank you. The pi I didn’t know about. Thank you for the extra details about the fans too. Awesome.
Hi Peter, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Check out my other CR10S Pro V2 videos. I made a lot of changes to it. Currently it's press print and walk away reliable.
Best of luck with your mods!
Hey man, thank you for taking out the time to help us. It's really appreciated, especially as i'm very new to this game.
Hi Joshua, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask so I do my best to help.
Best of luck with your new hobby!
@@vbared Thank you Victor, i'm currently printing the upper filament guide. Then i'm going to order the rest of the upgrades. I'll let you know how I get on.
Thank you once again!
Excellent video, thank you!
Hello Nevets Films, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Check out my other CR10S PRO V2 videos to check out what I've changed since this one.
Best of luck with your mods!
Great video! Thanks!
Hello Mauro, Happy New Year! Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Happy New Year and greetings from Italy!
Nice video, grat tips. Thanks
Hello Niko, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods!
First, thank you for your time and effort. I can see it is helping a lot of people, but for sure it is helping me. I was wondering if you had, or would make a short video on how to install the back-lash adaptors... ? I'm really new to this DIY mechanical stuff, as im sure others are (probably?) and I'd love a step-by-step on this...
Hello Tim, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. I installed a generic anti-backlash adapter that required a little modification but you can order one specifically for your printer that will be a direct fit.
ua-cam.com/video/amRldRpnK2Y/v-deo.html
Don't hesitate to reach out if you run into something you're unsure about. I may have already experienced something similar and might be able to save you some time and frustration.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared thank you sir!
printed your fan duct, excited to try it out! unfortunately with the stock print bed the duct doesn't work right with auto leveling or large prints because on the back side of the bed the new duct hits the clips that hold the bed on. Plan to keep the part around though, I'd love to use it if I upgrade the bed in the future.
Hello Nick, Thank you for commenting. I'm still playing around with its design. I'm new to CAD and have been blown away with some of the awesome things people design. What a shame that it doesn't fit the way it is.
Great video! Thanks!
I've followed most of your tips, but I'm hesitant to glue the magnet directly to the bed. I have the Creality one ready to be mounted though.
Is there any cons to doing that? What if I change my mind, and wants to use a glass bed (for TPU), or the magnet gets damaged? How easy would it be to remove the magnet?
Hello Bjørn, Thank you for commenting and kind words. You're ask a great question and I was also concerned about this. The 3M magnet is a permanent adhesion to the build plate. I decided to adhere it directly to the heated bed then to the build plate. The goal was to transfer the heat more quickly then having to heat 3 surface before reaching the flex plate. Check out this video that I made on using Garolite as the build plate.
ua-cam.com/video/MB-91rfvWfE/v-deo.html
I'm currently running it on two machines and have had zero adhesion or removal issues so you can toss out the scraper tool, glue sticks, and masking tape. The Garolite will release the part when it cools down but holds it better than other materials I've used when hot and equally as well as the WhamBam for $25 vs $249 for the WhamBam system. Another thing about the Garolite is I use the 1/16 inch think version which is super flat but will flex slightly if you need to release a large part.
Best of luck with your mods!
Best upgrade ever: the peanut :)
Hello Lars, Thank you for commenting. The peanut saved the day.
Best of luck with your projects!
Great video, very informative. I don't know if you mentioned it and I missed it but, how often are you having to adjust your bed ( bed level ) after prints?
Hello Michael, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. My CR10S Pro V2 came with a factory installed BL-Touch so all that is needed is the initial bed level and correctly setting the z-offset. Once those are set I don't have to mess with the bed leveling again unless I switch nozzles or remove the hotend for maintenance.
Let me know if you have any other questions or trouble with your prints.
Personally I'd recommend a brass brush. No need to have the brush be stronger than most nozzles. Less abrasive this way. In addition to the Capricorn tube, I run a filament snap on box that removes dust and slightly oils the filament. I'm actually printing up some nozzle fan adaptors right now so I downloaded yours. I've actually done most of the upgrades you recommend (partly based on your other videos). Thanks for the video, SLT and your info!
Hello Todd, Thank you for commenting and your suggestions. The brass brush instead of stainless one is the way to go and something I didn't consider mentioning for those running a brass nozzle. I'm running a treated steel nozzle since my end goal was carbon fiber reinforced nylon. The filament cleaner is a super cool idea. Definitely one for me to try. Do you have Thingiverse link to recommend? I'm thinking about switching out the motherboard to a 4.2.7 and use the display from an Ender 3 V2. I recently purchased an Ender 3 V2 and am blown away by how awesome the prints are compared to the CR10S Pro V2. All the hardware being the same I'm thinking it might be something better about the control board. What do you think?
I need this peanut ! ;-)
Lol!
After watching your video I just gave it a try as well. But the power supply fan is not turning. The fan it self is ok. Does the fan of the RSP-500-24 turns all the time or only when a curtain temp is reached? Looking forward for a reply.
Hello Ronald, Thank you for commenting. The power supply fan will turn when a set temperature is reached then shut down when it goes below that temperature. Test it by printing something small, it should turn sometime during the beginning of a print.
Let me know what you find.
Best of luck with your upgrades!
Curious about the carbon fiber you briefly mentioned it could print. How is/was that?
Hello Crypto, I still haven't tried carbon fiber filament, PETG has been working great for me. I haven't looked back to PLA since switching to it.
Hey victor, great video. I woud like to know if you updated the firmware, since I bought this printer has being a issue for me to get a firmware that works properly.
Hello Kaike Nehme,
Thank you for commenting and kind words, I really appreciate it. Yes, I changed my firmware. Check out my video linked below on how to do it. I recommend you use the firmware I have linked in that video's description since it's the one I'm using and verified to be working.
ua-cam.com/video/F1Lk7N5CMo4/v-deo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
Hello Victor, I was wondering if you had to make any adjustments on your fan duct. Mine seems to keep dragging on the print bed. I was hoping you could give me some advice.
Thank you.
Hello JJ305, Thank you for commenting. I actually designed my own fan mount, ditched the whole stock metal cage assembly and added the Micro Swiss direct extruder kit. It's a real work horse now with minimal maintenance. Linked below is my video on mounting the new fan assembly.
ua-cam.com/video/V_3GLGS4bx8/v-deo.html
Hey mate, I'm brand new to 3D printing and I have the option of buying a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 for about the same price as an Ender 3 V2 - which should I go with?
Hello TDXAV, Thank you for commenting. The CR10S Pro V2 is usually around $629, comes with a bigger print bed, dual Z axis motors, BL Touch, filament sensor, and packed with all kinds of other upgrades right out of the box. If you have the opportunity to get it for the same price as the Ender 3 V2 jump on it.
Best of luck with your purchase!
Is that replacement fan duct working out well? About to get the Micro swiss hot end and I'm going to print out your duct.
Hello Fett426, Thank you for commenting. I've run into issues with the Micro Swiss heater block working itself loose from the heat break. I haven't figured out why this happens but when it does it molten filament will ooz out of the threaded top or bottom of the heat block resulting in a huge mess. What I've found that works best is a stock hotend from and Ender 3 V2 mounted on a fan assembly and ducts that I designed for the Micro Swiss or stock Creality MK8 hotends. Check out the video below on how to install it (link to the mount is in the video description). If you need it to be all metal there are titanium heat breaks that can be added to this hotend. The Amazon link below is to a fully assembled Ender 3 V2 hotend. I just order it take it apart and use the hotend and fans on my mount. If you want to run dual parts fans check out the last link on the ones that I use.
amzn.to/3CotT7d
ua-cam.com/video/V_3GLGS4bx8/v-deo.html
amzn.to/3PqBAMI
Hey thanks for the video, I'm waiting for my cr-10s pro V2 to arrive hopefully this week...with the all metal hot end are you able to print at higher temps like 280 out of the box?
Hello David, Thank you for commenting and kind words. The all metal hot will allow printing at high temperature but to enable temps that high you're going to need to upgrade your firmware. I made a video on it linked below.
ua-cam.com/video/2_yBrRSnh5g/v-deo.html
Let me know if you have any questions.
Hey that link brings me to a delicious egg recipe, have something else I can watch 😂🙏 thank you!
@@DavidSeda Not sure why it linked to an egg recipe, strange. Here it is. You won't need to do anything with the probe offset since you're going to be using the stock assembly.
ua-cam.com/video/F1Lk7N5CMo4/v-deo.html
Nicely explained. Will it work fine if I replace the mother board of CR 10S Pro v1 machine to v2 board?
Hello Ketansa Art, Thank you for commenting. What is your main board model number? My CR10S Pro V2 is Creality V2.4
I'm new to the hobby and thank you for such great content and helping newbies like me. I tried printing the fan duct and installing and doesn't stick even with the screw being used. I'm using PETG, not that it would make any difference but the back clip that is intended to hold it in place seems to slim or doesn't have enough angle to stay in place. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Tube Perfect, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. I've made several changes to hotend assembly on my CR10S Pro V2. This is the current setup below. It's pretty much trouble-free now. All I do is press print and walk away, no more hotend clogs, under extrusion, or adhesion problems. What is your current setup? Are you using the stock hotend or Micro Swiss all metal?
ua-cam.com/video/V_3GLGS4bx8/v-deo.html
@@vbared I'm using stock hotend.
After what I just saw, I just ordered this model and their plate that is similar to yours, maybe better luck with theirs and hopefully wont need to use the elmers glue lol.
Would be great to see a complete how to set up like me video as I am going and buying all these parts now lol
Hi Crypto, My current setup has changed from that video, believe it or not, I'm running a standard Ender 3 V2 hotend on a Micro Swiss direct extruder kit. Everything works great now. Below is link to new hotend assembly.
ua-cam.com/video/V_3GLGS4bx8/v-deo.html
I have 2 CR10S Pro V2's with WhamBam plates....I have never needed any extra adhesive on my build plates!
Hello Joe, Thank you for commenting. You're 100% right the WhamBam is awesome and works for me perfectly without anything for 95% of the stuff I print in PETG. I have some parts I sell, that take 12 hours to print, are tall, and have small bed contact points. I print them without brim and support to avoid having to remove the imperfections later. I use the stick glue on the WhamBam as insurance against a power hiccup, or nighttime temp change that had caused edge lifting when I first started printing it.
Best of luck with your projects!
Amazing video sir! Very detailed!
I was trying to decide this printer or the CR 10 Max and I think this is the winner.
Thanks Again!
Hi Drake, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. Will this be your first 3D printer and are you needing a large build plate?
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared , yes it will be my first. You can only imagine how much stress it can be to pick a 3D printer out, learn of its reviews/upgrades, take in all criticism on that printer, then be shifted onto another one because someone says, "If you're going to spend that much money, might as well get this one." (Insert alternative Printer here.) LoL. I've been wanting to get one for nearly a year now and decided to make the jump now knowing I have SOME free time to learn about the softwares, slicing, and so on. Haha
If i wasnt going bald before this I am now! LoL
@@drakeiidavid8314 Hi Drake, is the large 300x300 build plate important to you? If not consider an Ender 3 V2, it produces cleaner prints, has a 235x235mm bed, fantastic community support, the best firmware development, and I can send you a list of all the upgrades needed to make it bulletproof for less than the cost of the CR10S Pro V2 alone. It's so good that I'm running two of them.
The biggest drawbacks to the CR10S Pro V2 is community support, proprietary touch screen (which limits firmware development), and finally cost. I've got my CR10S Pro V2 running reliably now but it took extra money in upgrades to get it there. If you require a 300x300mm bed or bigger let me know and I'll send you the upgrade list of my current build.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared I second this - I got the E3 V2 as my first printer a year or so ago and it's great as a first printer. I found there was a bit of a steep learning curve but it was great to see lots of videos on youtube specifically for this printer so that was very reassuring. I came across this video as I have just ordered a CR-10S Pro V2 because I want to do some slightly larger prints such as (cosplay helmets) and the bed size on the Ender was just a little small. I'll still keep it as a second printer to tinker with and delve a little deeper into the hobby (octoprint, hardware upgrades etc) safe in the knowledge that I'll have another printer if it all goes horribly wrong!
Hi Victor, I am interested in your latest list of upgrades. I’ve had the CR-10S Pro v2 for several years now, and I think my heat bed is warped. I’ve printed 3 of the parts, the 2 for the filament and one for the fan - probably 3 years ago. I really want to get this thing running well again. I’ve also replaced my boding tube a few years ago.
I noticed your parts list says you need (2) of each sized Noctua fans was this a typo?
Hello Roadkill_Fabrication, If you want to also replace the hotend heatsink fan then yes. You're going to need 2 of the Noctua 4010 sized fans (one for the hotend and the other to cool the control board). There is an adapter that you can get on Thingiverse to hold the new control board 4010 fan to the original blower fan fastening points. The last 2 need to be Noctua 4020 sized fans (one for the rear exhaust and the other replaces the power supply fan). All are 12 volts so you'll need at least one buck converter to turn down the voltage from 24 to 12 on the hotend fan. The power supply uses a 12 volt fan so it's a direct replacement. The control board fan and rear exhaust fans can be wired in series so between the two will divide the 24volts or you can add 2 more buck converters.
Any way you could help me figure out my issue with my cr10s pro v2. I have had many decent prints but after a few my printer goes through the setup for my next print but then just stops and doesn’t move it around at all
Hi Damien, Thank you for commenting. I've had this happen with my Ender 3 V2. When was the last time you formatted your SD card? It could also be a corrupted g-code file. When was the last time you leveled the bed manually? If you recently service the hot end, changed anything having to do with including and even bumped the print bed the auto bed level routine will pickup a measurement that is outside of normal deviation and stop the printer like you're describing. If you've tried all of the above and problem persists then unplug your BL Touch and plug it back in then restart your printer.
Let me know if any of these suggestions clears up the issue for you.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared thank you I will try that and see if it changes anything
What temp do you heat the bed to with the Wham Bam plate? I’m having issues with prints warping with the plate. They recommend 70c for pla but it warps like crazy so I lowered it to 50 and it still warps. And do you use economic mode or not?
Hello Joe, Thank you for commenting. I print with Sunlu black PETG and for that material I set my bed to 77c. I don't see the economic mode anymore since I flashed my firmware to get the advanced setting so I guess that it's not enabled. I stopped using PLA because of its sensitivity to heat. Sunlu PETG doesn't have those issues, prints like PLA and sticks like crazy to Wham Bam with the PEI film and Garolite.
Best of luck with your mods?
@@vbared thanks for the quick response. I am using PLA on my very first role I guess I know to move away from that with the heating issues I’m already having
@@josephmodesitt PETG costs the same and produces prints as good as PLA. In my opinion it's worth tuning your slicer settings for it. I print the SUNLU at 230c extruder, 77c bed, if you are on bowden set retract distance to 5, retract speed, 25mm/s, print speed 50mm/s and that's about it.
@@vbared Okay cool. Thanks, I appreciate it!
hey you should redesign that fan duct to include the blow motor housing. so you can use 3 bolt holes making it really strong.
Hello Tiny Gunner, Thank you for commenting. I'm currently this hotend setup that blows the stock cooling assembly
ua-cam.com/video/I7XJ-cgOgzE/v-deo.html
Best of luck with your build!
Hi Victor, like your fan duct but how do I print this... when printing with support the duct is all full with support :-) Should I print it without support??
Hi Peter, Thanks for commenting. Print it with the small duct facing up supports touching the build plate only. you should only get a small support for the fastening tab only. Everything inside should not have supports.
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Victor, that worked out great thx for the tip!
Hey, I saw someone recommend giving this machine a triangular frame structure like the CR-10v3 has. Do you think its worth it?
Hello Peter, Thank you for commenting . In my opinion If you plan on printing very tall items then making the carriage frame more rigid will improve your prints at the upper limits. If you mostly print items that are up to half the machines max height then you might not see any difference.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thank you, I really appreciate it. I just bought one of these second hand today. My first printer.
@@phun1901 Don't hesitate to ask me any questions about it. Getting it all calibrated is the tricky part.
Have fun with your new hobby!
hello I printed your fan duct but is there a certain way I should print it I keep getting supports on the inside and can't remove them?
Hello, Yes, it can be printed without supports. Place it on the build plate with the blower fan side down. The side that blows on the part should be facing up.
@@vbared ok thank you it worked!
@@Deadlineson Awesome, great job!
New to this whole RASPBERRY PI world. Will a RASPBERRY PI 3 A+ work with my CR10S Pro V2 to transfer files from my computer as he mentions in the video?
Hello Allan, Thank you for commenting. Yes, the Pi 3 A+ will work perfectly. I'm using the Pi 3 B+ which has 4 USB ports and an RJ45. If you're planning on using the Octoprint to do time lapse video using a USB webcam or plan on adding more printers then go with the B+ version. Make sure to get the right power supply 5volt Micro USB 2.5 amp or better. Canakit.com has all the stuff.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Thank you
Would u recommend this as a first printer
Hello Raincoat girl, Thank you for commenting. In my opinion based on my experience owning one unless you need the big build surface of the CR10S PRO V2, I would consider the printer below and upgrade it using the listed parts. In the end it will cost less fully upgraded than purchasing the CR10S PRO V2. If you decide on the CR10S PRO V2 I can send you a list of what I would change on it to make as reliable as the one below would be after the upgrades.
3D printer I would buy today:
My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List -
3D Printer:
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
Upgrades:
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3wuaq1Q
Ender 3 V2 Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR
Bearing Set - amzn.to/3ay5sVF
G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
Voltage Converters (Buck) - amzn.to/3vZN56W
ua-cam.com/video/ycvHpMbo5Hw/v-deo.html
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I6gEWe-FosKM378UJI-PVBOrBvQaV/view?usp=sharing
Custom 300-degree firmware and complete install video:
Ender 3 V2 Jyers Custom Firmware - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11VYODvhCfL_VLEZ_GkplXYnc2kVU_woV
How to install the Jyers firmware - ua-cam.com/video/amRldRpnK2Y/v-deo.html
What did u print your fan duckt in? Petg? Btw Nice video
Hello EENIG, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Yes, PETG is what I used. I should have mentioned that in the video.
I'm working on the decorative cover piece for that shroud and will share the .STL once it's finalized.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared thx and no problem. Think il do it in petg cf then :) and do you and link to stl file when done with cover ?:)
@@eenig8730 Good morning EENIG, I just noticed that I replied to you in this video about one that I recently uploaded about the Ender 3 V2, my apologies. I scrapped the air duct I talked about in this CR10S Pro V2 video and went back to the stock duct but made this adjuster plate that allows me to move the stock duct up or down so it could be made to work with the new assembly. The file and pictures are here:
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11f3JpPPXBdvD_qRntdQH1Qu5R54PsUhE
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared why did u scrap the air duckt? And its all ok mate
Hello EENIG, The duct that I downloaded and modified to fit the new direct drive setup on the CR10S Pro V2 didn't flow well at all. I did some tests to check airflow and it hardly moved water in a shallow bowl placed directly below it. The new fan adjustment plate made the stock fan duct work much better since it was moved away from the tip by the thickness of the plate. It widened the airflow and since that stock fan flows so much air it significantly cut down on the stringing from the fan blowing so hard on the tip and does a better job of cooling parts.
where is the micro swiss direct drive?
Good morning UcantBeSerious03, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately The Micro Swiss direct drive mount isn't a direct fit for the CR10S Pro V2 but it can be done. I'm working on solving the problems to make it work. I'll post a video on it soon.
The "Custom fan duct .STL file" is not to be found ?
Hello Kimspur, Thank you for pointing out the dead link. The file you're looking for is in this .zip file. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1AnXZWq3lZyyxw9jOkNnXzkKM79y9-N-Y
Thanks, @@vbared
The best mod you show here is the peanut hole plug 🥜
Hello Rachel, Thank you for commenting. The peanut proof of concept is what I call it. Linked below is the part that came from it. If you have a CR10S Pro V1 or V2 the .STL file will keep the bed wire from hanging up on the edge of the metal cover.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19PZOHD4Y67q0gvQx7_PYfHWgEjLVtqTn
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks for the reply! A friend gifted me a CR10S Plus that needed some tlc and a few parts replaced so I've been doing some upgrades and cleaning on it. Noctua fans, cr touch, doing some rewiring. I'll check out your link!
@@rachellocks1623 Super cool, it sounds like you already have experience working with these amazing machines. If you come across anything you haven't already encountered just ask. Maybe I can learn from you or help save you time.
@@vbared This is the first one that I own, and I'm very excited about it! I've borrowed an Anet A8 and an Ender 3 before so I have some experience, but mostly just from educating myself through youtube and channels like yours. Subscribed friend, I hope we can learn together!
@@rachellocks1623 Welcome to the 3D printing community. This hobby is wonderful and there is lots of support. There is so much cool information the learn.
Enjoy your weekend!
Excellent video very good to share it the other you would be so kind to share some profile I have microswizz too and I can not find the point of retractions since a thousand thanks
Hello Alejandro, Thank you for commenting and kinds words. I'm using 10mm for retraction distance and 25mm/s on speed for the Micro Swiss without direct drive with great success. If you are using the Micro Swiss hotend and direct drive extruder then use 1mm retraction distance and 25mm/s for speed.
@@vbared Thank you for answering kindly. I comment that I have used 6.5 mm of retraction in pla and I received jams, I will try that configuration anyway and I have bowend if at some point I will do it direct Thank you very much for answering
Can you flash CR10pro v1 with v2 firmware and screen files?
Hi Panel, Thank you for commenting. I haven't tried doing that but if the main board has the same model number and the capacitive probe is wired the same pins as a BL-Touch then I would say yes.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared switching Z+ to Z- is not a problem, the boards seem to be the same. I was looking for an answer for "pause at height" not working using the OEM firmware. I switched to tiny machines DW7 - pause at height works now, however, DW7 has a lot of bugs and I dont want to go on with it. So I just thought I could try with creality v2 newer firmwares since v1 is not updated any more. Though I think pause at heigt (m600) is also disabled for the oem v2 firmware. One difference however, V2 is provided with the source code which you can edit and correct this with source code lines from the tiny machines firmware.
@@pawelw.9172 A UA-cam subscriber sent me this. I'm currently needing to pick up another Raspberry Pi. This looks promising.
github.com/Desuuuu/DGUS-reloaded-Klipper
I'm currently using Klipper with one of my Ender 3 V2s and it's amazing. 100mm/s print speed, pressure advance, input shaping. No more compiling firmware just edit the printer.cfg file and restart, easy peasy.
Hola amigo, me ayudas con la guía de filamento, el enlace de thingiverse esta roto, gracias
Hello friend, you help me with the filament guide, the thingiverse link is broken, thanks
Hola, Thank you for commenting. These are the two that I was using in the video.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3148615
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4612039
Best of luck with your mods!
Looks like your enclosure/housing fan is installed in a wrong direction, it should blow into the enclosure and not out of it.
Hello GumLab, Thank you for commenting and pointing that out. What's interesting is the fan is the one that came with the printer and installed like that from Creality. I also noticed it's the same way on all the pictures of the CR10S Pro V2 hot ends.
Best of luck with your projects!
I love your videos. I had been using printers at my work as a hobby for quite a while and bought this printer about a year ago. Honestly. I hate my CR-10s pro v2. There is something always wrong with it. I get like 3 prints before I have some issue. I can never just print back to back with out a level. Always leveling the Z axis and the bed. Heat creep. Stock fans are loud and one went out. Extruder clogged. Buggy forgotten firmware. The original bed. This printer prints amazing when I can get it to work, but I don't think anyone should buy it. I have purchased all the upgrades you mentioned in your video and a few more. I hope it fixes all these issues and it consistently prints like it's capable of doing, but at the point where your printer is it's safe to say its just a body of a creality. Maybe my standards are too high as I have a mark forged and an ultimaker S5 at my business, but I think it's not for me. I just bought to tinker around at home for fun and it's been the opposite.
Hello Prp1k1ng, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I appreciate you sharing your detailed experience with your CR10S Pro V2. It was my second 3D printer and my early experiences with it have been the same as you. The initial cost of the printer is high and I've put hundreds more into getting it to work reliably. The greatest benefit of owning such a problematic machine for me has been to get a good understanding of why issues are occuring and how to resolve them permanently.
My top fixes for this printer are:
Build surfaces - WhamBam or Garolite
Auto bed level - BL-Touch or CR-Touch
Address Gantry sag - Install anti-backlash adapters.
Extrusion - Micro Swiss direct drive extruder kit using the Ender3/CR10 all metal hotend instead of the one specifically for the CR10S Pro V2.
Parts cooling and noise reduction - replace all the fans with Noctua versions if available. Get my new fan bracket, ducts .STL files, and order a set of Ender 3 4010 blower fans.
Firmware - Tiny Machines 3D or compile your own.
Fine tune - Manually level the gantry, manually level the bed, auto level the bed, set z offset, set x,y,z, and e steps. Make sure to save the changes to the EPROM.
G-code - Use my custom G-Code to eliminate the possibility of oozing filament during auto bed level at the beginning of a print and depositing a filament booger in your first layer.
The aforementioned has finally made this machine reliable for me. I just hit print and walk away.
Creality should have made this printer a direct drive instead of trying to make it work with such a long bowden tube.
strange mine for the most part has been hit print and walk away and ive done nothing to it... heck i leveled my bed once out of the box and its still good several months later... granted i dont have 1000's of hours on it but almost every print has been great unless i forget to add supports... hope you get it straightened out bud...
@@angelusmortis3256 Hello Angelus, Thank you for commenting and info on how your machine is working. Like your experience mine out of the box behaved in the same way and my PLA prints were near perfect. My issues started shortly after switching to PETG. Thankfully I was able to make the necessary changes and everything is working beautifully now.
Best of luck with your prints!
@@vbared and there lies my problem... im looking at doing some harder materials petg abs and what not... i wanna upgrade my hotend but cant find the correct micro swiss all metal hotend for the cr 10s pro v2... the link you left is for the cr 10s pro and max but doesnt say anything about the v2
@@angelusmortis3256 Hello Angelus, this is the one you need.
amzn.to/3gGcCtN
Even though it doesn't mention the V2 it's the correct one for it. The CR10-Max, and CR10S Pro have the same stock hotend designs.
Best of luck with your build!
Is there a peanut at the backside?? :)))))
Hello D. I.A, Thank you for commenting. Yes, it was the peanut that inspired me to make this part to keep the CR10S Pro V2 wire harness from catching the corner of that rear belt cover.
photos.app.goo.gl/hp4eXmr3Yt1Y9y6P9
Best of luck with your mods!
I know a Miami voice when I hear one...
Hello Southern Speed Videos, Thank you for commenting. Yup, Cuban parents born in Coral Gables and raised in Miami. The accent is unique to those that grew up around it, great memories for me. Are you from Miami or have family there?
@@vbared Yup, same. Cuban parents 1st gen born in South Miami hosp. Raised in Miami lakes til 10 then Horse country. Thanks for putting up the content. Subbed for sure 👊🏼. I'm debating between the cr10s pro V3 and prusa mk3. Want the bigger bed of the cr but prusa's trouble free operation has me super undecided.
@@SouthernSpeedVideos Great to have a fellow Floridian to chat with. Check out the new Ender 3 S1. It uses the same 4.2.2 silent board as the Ender 3 V2 but packed with a bunch of upgrades right out of the box. You can also load the Jyers firmware on it to unlock many more settings. The CR10 V3 is another good choice if build volume is what you're after. You can also upgrade the motherboard later on to the 4.2.4 to get more firmware support. One super cool thing about the CR10 V3 design is that you can put the main printer structure in a heated enclosure needed when dealing with polycarbonate, nylon, and abs while keeping the power supply and control electronics outside. I don't have any experience with the pricier Prusa but know that just about every serious 3D print farm has eventually converted to them. I'm working on adding a V6 Prusa style hot end to one of my Ender 3 V2s to improve on the length of printing time before needing maintenance.
Why are the upgrades required? Shouldn’t the printer work out of the box? Mine didn’t and doesn’t. Customer support sucks, waiting for credit card company to issue refund as creality do not respond.
Hi Simon, Thank you for commenting. At the time I purchased the CR10S Pro V2 it was Creality's flagship printer. Like you already discovered the support not only from Creality but the 3D printer community was non existent. Dealing with problems right out of the gate seems to be common with most mid line printers. The good thing is that if you enjoy problem solving and are persistent all the issue can be addressed and the printer can be made to be super reliable and produce prints that are on par with thousand dollar 3d printers.
What kind of trouble were you having?
@@vbared , I am trying to print a project with PETG., the printer was damaged in transit, however having requested a replacement I just keep getting sent replacements parts. I want either a refund or a new printer. I bought the printer from CrealityUK, but it was shipped from abroad.
@@SimonPlatten Hi Simon, It's unfortunate that Creality is choosing repairs instead of replacement. I agree with your position. Hopefully you can get things sorted out soon. If you need big format printer consider the Ender 3 Max Neo instead of the CR10S Pro V2.
PETG is an easy material to print with but you need to print it on Garolite. You'll have problems getting parts off of the stock bed that comes with the CR10S Pro V2 and PETG doesn't stick to glass print surfaces like the one that comes on the Ender 3 Max Neo.
I print exclusively with SUNLU PETG.
@@vbared thank you, the next printer I choose will have to support PETG and a large print area.
@@SimonPlatten I hear you, best of luck!
Raymond? Is that you?
Hello PerkeleTV, Thank you for commenting. I've had a few people tell me that. I'm going to have to watch some Everybody Loves Raymond to see if I can pickup on it.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared that’s funny, glad you got the reference! And thanks for great content! :)
If I could only figure out why I can't level my cr10s pro v2 anymore. Switched bowden tube , new 0.4mm nozzle , leveled bezel on 4 corners, turned off auto level. Used level to make sure x axis bar was level. Still won't print properly.
Hi CS, Thank you for commenting. Please tell me what you mean by it's not printing properly. Is it bed adhesion issues? What material are you using and what build plate?
look at rc car fans for the parts cooler
Hello Jessie James, Thank you for commenting. I hadn't thought about that, thank you for your tip.
it amazes me when people say " well i changed my bed because the adheasion was really good , and i put a crappy pei sheed on it ........"................COME ON GUYS .....
Hello David, Thank you for commenting. I print with PETG which is a material that fuses to the BuildTak lined aluminum build plate that came stock with my CR10S Pro V2 if the nozzle height is too close to the bed, ask me how I know this. I wouldn't recommend printing PETG on a non flexible BuildTak lined build plate. The aluminum plate the BuildTak is glued to, while much lighter weight than glass, is unfortunately just as warped as the heated bed itself. I opted for the PEX lined WhamBam at that time, but it also has its share of issues. Weight and PEX film bubbling over time. A build surface that is truly amazing, that I learned about in 2021, for printing with PLA, PETG, and straight Nylon is Garolite G10. It's less than 1/2 the weight of the WhamBam system, can be flexed, will never bubble, and releases parts when cooled.
Best of luck with your mods!
HOW ABOUT THAT PEANUT THO.....
Hello Lord Frunk, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, the peanut has been getting a lot of attention. It was the proof of concept that the part linked below was needed. Let me know if you have a CR10S Pro V2 so I can link the .STL file to you.
drive.google.com/file/d/18m47c7imsJiYdG-pdwPrY-1oEhQgAyV_/view?usp=sharing
Best of luck with your mods!
the flex bed PEX is a must the stock plate is complete junk
Hello vrosi1963, Thank you for commenting, 100% agreed, the stock build surface was terrible. I've switched out the WhamBam flex plate for Garolite G10 and haven't looked back since. The pex film of the WhamBam blisters after awhile resulting in very ugly bottoms.