CR 10s Pro 3D Printer Enclosure Pt2 (Fully operational by the end of the video!)
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- If you missed part 1, watch it here: • CR-10s Pro 3D Printer ...
I needed an enclosure for my Creality Cr-10s Pro 3d printer but nobody sold one that didn't fry the electronics. So I made one!
It's always advised to use an enclosure when 3d printing but both the CR-10s Pro V1 & V2 make it difficult because of the placement of the screen and electronics. That's why you need a bespoke enclosure. I have provided full plans, STLs and a comprehensive build-a-long guide so that you can make this enclosure for your printer too.
In this part 2 of the build series, I show you how to extend your screen wiring so that you can move it to the outside of the enclosure. I also show how to add fans to your enclosure and then finally assemble everything to complete your fully working 3d printer enclosure.
If you want to support my channel and see what's coming next, click the below link to 'buy me a coffee' (no purchase necessary)
www.buymeacoff...
Download all plans and files here:
Thingiverse: www.thingivers...
Cults3d: cults3d.com/en...
Affiliate links (If you purchase something after clicking any of the below links I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. This is a great way to support the channel)
Fans
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Fork Connectors
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Screen Cable Plugs
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6 wire screen cable (24awg ribbon cable 1.4m needed)
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Fan Plugs
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Red & black wire (24awg min, 1m of each needed)
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90 degree Power Cable
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LEDs (12v)
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Heatshrink
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Switched Extension
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M3 Tap
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Solder
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CR-10s Pro V2
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Cant wait for the ventilation video!
Great work Ricky, your videos get better each and every time! - Nice enclosure too, just needs a paint job next!
Thanks Jonny, yeah I was going to paint it but I quite like the way the wood looks in the garage🤔 Maybe a future mod.....
Nice Video! Could you make a video about the z axis sync on the 10s pro ?
Rick. Although the insulation you installed is fire resistant. Have you considered installing a thermal fuse? Wire as part of the AC feed and placed in the top, it would cut the power in the event of fire or overheating. It won't put the fire out, but it might stop one happening / reduce the energy feeding the fire. They are available in a range of trigger temps (so could get one that tripped at say 300f which would be below trigger point of flammable materials but above safe working limit of the printer? Just an idea...
That's a very good idea Edward, I've never used them but I'll certainly add it to the list of mods to investigate, thanks.
I'm eager to see what mods you plan on doing in addition to this enclosure. I have an octoprint Raspberry Pi to monitor my prints so I'm trying to figure out how to still use it with the enclosure.
The good thing about this enclosure is that it's really easy to just remove a side panel and cut any holes etc. I was thinking of just mounting the Raspberry Pi to the outside with a small 'window' for a camera to monitor prints. Of course I will also need to provide power and I'd also like to be able to turn the printer in and off with Octoprint so it will need to be separate. Nothing too difficult to do and it's on the list of things to do.
@@RickyImpey would a USB wire be ok in the enclosure?
@@nyjets91 it should be fine, I don't think you'd ever want the enclosure warmer than 50°C and wiring will be rated much higher than that. Without additional heating, mine gets to 40°C from just the heat bed. The best thing to do would be to run any wiring underneath in the section below the heat chamber that is cooled by fans. The main reason being that it keeps cables away from moving parts.
Rick
Any chance to print the plans with imperial measurements for those of us in the USA? I’m a Brit but over here inch fractions are king. I could use a calculator for each measurement but you might just be able to change a setting in your CAD app?
I will be using a mix of 1/2” ply and MDF
Thanks! Great plan
Give me a couple of days and I'll get something up on the Thingiverse link to help.
@@RickyImpey Thanks Rick. You might want to make this a dedicated channel for THIS printer. There's so much stuff on 3D printing out there, but hard to sort through for the stuff specific to the 10S Pro V2. Maybe you could do videos on the printer, what you've learned about it (Pros, cons, tips etc) and you would then end up with subscribers who have THAT particular printer.Best of luck
@@edwardk7217 thanks for the ideas. So far I have really just made videos for the CR-10S Pro after solving my own problems and learning. I'll continue to do more as and when I do more with my printer for sure. I'm cautious not to pen myself into a corner for future content that is only for one model though. I have a few videos in the pipeline with projects that involve 3d printed parts but are not solely about 3d printing. We'll see how popular they are. Thanks again for the coffees, I really appreciate everyone who takes the time to watch and engage with my content let alone supporting the channel financially.
Hi Edward, I've uploaded 1/2" sheet plans with all measurements in imperial instead of metric for you. You can can find the pdf through the Thingiverse link, look for the file '0.5 Inch Sheet Plans Imperial Units'. Let me know how you get on.
@@RickyImpey Thanks Rick!
Rick. What about extending the SD card slot to the exterior of the cabinet so it's not as awkward?
Hi Edward, I did look into extending the SD card but I would have wanted it on the front panel. After some research I found that you can only extend them about 500mm before they stop working reliably. As the printer needs to constantly read the gcode off the card this meant I couldn't do it. You could extend to the RH side but that wouldn't work for me. Nice idea though, thanks.
@@RickyImpey Ahh, I didn’t know that limitation and that makes sense. I may try that side exit approach
I was thinking about making a enclosure for my Pro in my garage I also use octoprint for remote printing so no need for the sd card just
need a location for a raspberry pi ? but great idea thanks for the video
You're ahead of me Andy, I'll be doing that at some point when I have time. I have all the bits already. I was planning on cutting a rectangular hole in the right hand side and having a small 'window' for the camera to look through so that it's not in the heat chamber. I'll probably use a glass phone screen protector or something similar then have a 3d printed cover over the back to protect everything from dust and damage. Let me know if you come up with a better idea👍
@@RickyImpey Did you make any progress with the webcam idea ? thanks
Hi Andy, not just yet, I'm working on another project for the printer at the moment but I do plan on sorting Octoprint with a cam soon.
@@RickyImpey I've been looking into mounting a pi ir/day camera to the printer then a long ribbon cable to the pi external ?
@@trickylong17, yes I have a dual day/ir camera all ready to go to use with the pi. I was going to just run the cable through a hole in the side of the enclosure by the 'front' of the printer. I will mount the camera inside but clear of the print bed and the pi on the outside of the enclosure with a 3d printed dust cover. It will need a power supply which I will run separately to the printer so that I can remotely turn the power to the printer on and off.
Rick. Any constraints with fan size? I wonder if placing the base of the printer on corner blocks under the legs would give more fan options and better cooling as the ‘floor’ height would be raised and the gap below the printer larger. I’m thinking of adding a fan filter as my wood shop is dusty
?
Yes, your limit on fan size is dictated by the bottom of the bed levelling screws. If you lifted the printer you could fit bigger fans. Personally I would just add more 40mm fans if I needed more cooling rather than trying to use a larger diameter. A filter on your inlet would be a very good idea if you have a dusty environment. Another option if you wanted to use bigger fans would be some kind of manifold fitted to a slot in the lower section. Then you are less limited but it would obviously take up more room outside the printer.
@@RickyImpey Thanks Rick - Coffee on the way :-) Hopefully you can work on outputing in imperial as I plan to start making this at the end of the week :)
@@edwardk7217 thanks very much, your support is greatly appreciated. I'll see what I can do on some imperial dimensions for you👍
Hi Rick, great build. Are you having any issues with heat creep, especially when using low melt temp materials liked PLA?
Hi, no none at all actually. I've honestly only had positives from putting the printer in an enclosure. Better bed adhesion from the more consistent air temperature around the print and a cleaner bed from less dust. I have however only been using it over the winter. Summer is only just starting to hit here now so warmer temps may cause issues that I haven't had yet. If so then I'll make more mods and another video🙂
Why not just move all the electronic to a side area and isolate from heat?
Would be more hassle than it’s worth
hi ricky i have a quistion for you i have my printer in a cabin and i print with pla dose the cabin temp effect the print quality 🙄🙄
The short answer is 'yes' but the long answer would need more information. It's more about the extremes of temperatures and drafts. Different materials can also be affected more or less by different temperatures. If you are printing mainly with PLA then I haven't really noticed a lot of difference from 10°C up to 40°C. What seems to have more effect is sudden changes in temperature or a draft cooling a print.
@@RickyImpey thanks for the long answer. and other quistion please did add a fan to cool up the cabine and why people do that
@@HumamZaki Sorry, not sure what you mean. Do you mean why would people add a fan to cool somewhere where they have a printer? I can't really say but I imagine they are concerned about temperatures getting too high. They may also be using a fan to extract any harmful particles from filament like ABS.
@@RickyImpey ok no problem thanks alot