Hey thanks for checking out my video Soumen! So when you are asking about the sector shaft, do you mean a sector shaft brace? It is not required however I did recently shear my sector shaft and I have installed the synergy sector shaft brace. As far as a stabilizer, I am not running one and I have had zero issues since August of 2021 when I installed the axles and new steering!
I see you are using two identical tape measures, and there is huge wisdom there (sorry if you mentioned this on the vid, if so I just missed it). Being identical they most likely have same tolerances, and give you reliable enough measurements for the toe-in. I know a guy who was building his house, and was struggling with woodwork assembly. Whatever I, ummm...I mean this guy did, the parts often had either play, or just would not squeeze in between each other. Years after it was discovered the two tape measures used on site had tiny, but none the less significant enough tolerance, so for each meter there was a about a millimeter of difference. With longer parts and high precision assemblies, depending on which tape meaure was used, one sometimes ended up with ~5 millimeter (1/4") gaps or oversized parts. Oh the amount of swearing heard on that site every now and then... Well, neither of the tape measures was exactly top of the line, but money was tight so...
I don’t believe that I mentioned it, but very observant of you and that was exactly my thought buying two of the same tape measure rather than using ones I already had! Granted I have not verified they are identical or not, I probably should do that! 🤔 But I figured having two versus one and having to flip back and forth would be a pain. Oh man that it a story right there! What a bummer to not realize that till later on! But also a great life and learning experience! Thanks for checking out the video tho! And also catching a little detail like that!
Are you running a stock steering box and pump? If so, do you have concerns about the added weight of these bars and ends? I just got mine in the mail today and realized how “beefy” these things are and wondered if they will put more stress on my stock steering parts.
Hey there Rob, thanks for checking out my video! Yes I am still running the factory Steering Gear Box and PS Pump. I wish I would have looked at the weight comparison of the factory steel to aluminum tie rod and drag link, but I am not concerned with this added weight impacting the steering pump and gear box. The more impacting item will be oversized tires, they add a significant amount of mass (weight) both static and rotational and the increase of diameter adds more strain to these components especially in off road driving. I hope this helps!
@@VictorVectorJKU I appreciate your response and enjoyed your video as well! Btw, which direction did you install the washers? I noticed there is a concave/convex side. I’m also thinking the sector shaft now becomes the weak link in the system! PSC steering box in my future?
Yeah the sector shaft definitely would be the weak link but I don’t expect the larger drag link would have a negative impact beside not deflecting and deforming as much as the factory which could add strain to the sector shaft. As for the washers you want the concave or pocket side adjacent to the rod end, that serves as a pocket for the grease to fill. Also do note for the tie rod you will use the anti-rotation washers in place of the rubber boots.
Oh haha whoops! Honestly I don’t really remember, I want to say I would have put the serrated side to the aluminum since the nut would slide on the washer and you would want to not be grabbing on the serrations.
Could you measure (length) the adjuster tube itself? Also the measurements from driver side TRE zerk fitting to passenger side TRE zerk fitting running hi steer knuckles on a Dana44 (or ProRock44 Unlimited) width axle?
Hey there Beach Boy, thanks for checking out my video! The aluminum tie rod, just the aluminum sleeve, is 39” and zerk to zerk is 58-3/8” approximately. Keep in mind your zerk to zerk distance may differ based on your adjustment for toe! I hope this helps
Hey there beach boy, so I cannot get an accurate measurement since I have a drag link flip kit so the zerk on the pitman arm faces down and the knuckle side faces up. Measuring from the ball joint stud to the zerk I am approximately 40.25”. One question I have is you are not trying to use my measurements to set your alignment correct? It would be highly unlikely for your measurements to match mine exactly due to tolerances of the axles. Just want to make sure you are working towards success if not just looking for information for your own research!
Hey there Bernelnery, thanks for checking out my video! So the Reid Racing knuckles they are designed for over the knuckle drag link mount. Factory knuckles will require drilling and an insert to be installed.
There is an insert that is installed for the OTH conversion, a new insert could be installed from the underside to go back to under the knuckle if ever desired. This would also work for repairing a wobbled out taper on the knuckle as well
Great video. Thank you
Thank you for checking out my video Gooseberry!
Cool video! Good content! Found you through Goat Off-Road. New Subscriber!!
That’s awesome! And thank you so much!! I really appreciate it!
Always good videos. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Marcello!! I really appreciate it!
Nice Custom 👍👍👍😄
Thank you Petr! I appreciate you checking out my video!
Great video. Did you have to install steering sector shaft like Steersmart and how did you relocate the steering stabilizer?
Hey thanks for checking out my video Soumen! So when you are asking about the sector shaft, do you mean a sector shaft brace? It is not required however I did recently shear my sector shaft and I have installed the synergy sector shaft brace. As far as a stabilizer, I am not running one and I have had zero issues since August of 2021 when I installed the axles and new steering!
@@VictorVectorJKU yes. Steering Sector shaft brace reinforcement. Quite a mouthful 🤣
Yeah it is!
I see you are using two identical tape measures, and there is huge wisdom there (sorry if you mentioned this on the vid, if so I just missed it). Being identical they most likely have same tolerances, and give you reliable enough measurements for the toe-in. I know a guy who was building his house, and was struggling with woodwork assembly. Whatever I, ummm...I mean this guy did, the parts often had either play, or just would not squeeze in between each other. Years after it was discovered the two tape measures used on site had tiny, but none the less significant enough tolerance, so for each meter there was a about a millimeter of difference. With longer parts and high precision assemblies, depending on which tape meaure was used, one sometimes ended up with ~5 millimeter (1/4") gaps or oversized parts. Oh the amount of swearing heard on that site every now and then... Well, neither of the tape measures was exactly top of the line, but money was tight so...
I don’t believe that I mentioned it, but very observant of you and that was exactly my thought buying two of the same tape measure rather than using ones I already had! Granted I have not verified they are identical or not, I probably should do that! 🤔 But I figured having two versus one and having to flip back and forth would be a pain.
Oh man that it a story right there! What a bummer to not realize that till later on! But also a great life and learning experience!
Thanks for checking out the video tho! And also catching a little detail like that!
Are you running a stock steering box and pump? If so, do you have concerns about the added weight of these bars and ends? I just got mine in the mail today and realized how “beefy” these things are and wondered if they will put more stress on my stock steering parts.
Hey there Rob, thanks for checking out my video! Yes I am still running the factory Steering Gear Box and PS Pump. I wish I would have looked at the weight comparison of the factory steel to aluminum tie rod and drag link, but I am not concerned with this added weight impacting the steering pump and gear box. The more impacting item will be oversized tires, they add a significant amount of mass (weight) both static and rotational and the increase of diameter adds more strain to these components especially in off road driving. I hope this helps!
@@VictorVectorJKU I appreciate your response and enjoyed your video as well! Btw, which direction did you install the washers? I noticed there is a concave/convex side. I’m also thinking the sector shaft now becomes the weak link in the system! PSC steering box in my future?
Yeah the sector shaft definitely would be the weak link but I don’t expect the larger drag link would have a negative impact beside not deflecting and deforming as much as the factory which could add strain to the sector shaft. As for the washers you want the concave or pocket side adjacent to the rod end, that serves as a pocket for the grease to fill. Also do note for the tie rod you will use the anti-rotation washers in place of the rubber boots.
@@VictorVectorJKU thanks again for your response! I was actually referring to the serrated washer that is between jam nut and bar🤔
Oh haha whoops! Honestly I don’t really remember, I want to say I would have put the serrated side to the aluminum since the nut would slide on the washer and you would want to not be grabbing on the serrations.
Could you measure (length) the adjuster tube itself?
Also the measurements from driver side TRE zerk fitting to passenger side TRE zerk fitting running hi steer knuckles on a Dana44 (or ProRock44 Unlimited) width axle?
Hey there Beach Boy, thanks for checking out my video!
The aluminum tie rod, just the aluminum sleeve, is 39” and zerk to zerk is 58-3/8” approximately. Keep in mind your zerk to zerk distance may differ based on your adjustment for toe! I hope this helps
@@VictorVectorJKU very helpful! Thanks for the detailed vids!
You are welcome!
Hey VictorVectorJKU, could you also measure zerk to zerk for the draglink?
Hey there beach boy, so I cannot get an accurate measurement since I have a drag link flip kit so the zerk on the pitman arm faces down and the knuckle side faces up. Measuring from the ball joint stud to the zerk I am approximately 40.25”.
One question I have is you are not trying to use my measurements to set your alignment correct? It would be highly unlikely for your measurements to match mine exactly due to tolerances of the axles. Just want to make sure you are working towards success if not just looking for information for your own research!
Just realize that no rheeming was done for the otk installation
Hey there Bernelnery, thanks for checking out my video! So the Reid Racing knuckles they are designed for over the knuckle drag link mount. Factory knuckles will require drilling and an insert to be installed.
Oh boy I guess my stock knucklke will be drilled and forever be OTK
There is an insert that is installed for the OTH conversion, a new insert could be installed from the underside to go back to under the knuckle if ever desired. This would also work for repairing a wobbled out taper on the knuckle as well