Hi, Nate , I was watching an early video from Bleeping Jeep days and you were talking about useing a drill press as a mill .well this is posable .the only thing you have to watch out for is the size of and depth of your cut. A drill press is set up for down pressure , were as a mill is set up for side, and down pressure . it will still wear the bearings at a faster rate but you can do it .I have done this .the feed rate is also a factor. I was aa machinist for 40 years , and in a pinch you have to be creative .I just thought i would lend my opinion .
Nate with the whiteboard is a killer combo. Thanks to guys like u and OverlandBound i been slowly getting more into wheeling, just yesterday i took my dad and nieces into a valley near my house :D
My TJ is an 02 X with an 05 Rubicon underneath. 4.0 with 5sp manual and 35s. The 4.10s feel great once up to speed and putting down the highway but man getting up there takes awhile and 1st gear takes a lot of throttle to get going. Really thinking about going to 4.88s if not 5.13s.
Thanks for the info...I double checked my gear selection form a 3.73 on 32's to 4.56 on 35's is the perfect selection (rounding up). Which gets me a bit over for not only the 35's but also I get that little bit extra for towing when needed.
@@maginusjames8859 I have an F150 with an automatic. After going to the 6" lift on 35's with stock 3.73 ratio it was a gutless wonder. After going to 4.56 gears it was back to normal with a but more torque. Stock with 35's the gear change would have been 4.30 but they do not make 4.30 in both front and rear so went one step higher to a 4.56.
@@maginusjames8859 I Also, invested in a hand held programmer. It canl assist with changing the gear ratio, shift points as well as odometer programing to fix the MPH.
I found that a horizontal bandsaw is the way to go. You can do so much more with a bandsaw than a 14" circular saw. The only disadvantage is the initial cost. I love your channel. It is good to see a regular guy build quality stuff without having a half million dollars worth of equipment in his shop. Keep up the good work.
The one exception to carrier break is the ford 9” same carrier for all gear sets. Got to love it strong simple to set up, there is a reason they have been and will be the axle of choice for drag racing for years.
I like my 5.29's on my 35's on my 93 4 runner. In fact I might go to 5.71 unless I can get something in the 5.55 area. I have Yukon thick, 5.29 gears. But the guy who rebuilt my rear end and installed my Eaton E locker said I should use 4.88 and showed me a 5.29 pinion that was shredded and said that the 4.88 was the strongest gear in a Toyota rear end. It makes good power for a 3.0 in town I'm at about 3000 rpm for 35 mph driving. And it will,do 75 mph at 3500 rpm so not to bad. But can hardly use 5th gear. Makes a huge difference in how powerful the rig feels.
Awesome video on gearing calculations! I ended up reviewing what I’m currently running, with this process, just to see if it matches up with what I had done earlier this year. Keep up the good work, and keep using that whiteboard!
perfect timing, was looking into this very topic; have an old yj that I am going to put in some trutracs in, where I have the default 3:54 ratio. not a crawler by any means, mostly daily but want some offroad space, and also want some winter reassurance.
Makes sense to me and am not a mechanic by any stretch.....work with tools building for living but not autos Very well explained and common sense prevails once again
Running 3.73s on 33s on my TJ (4.0,AX15) does alright, is a little of a dog, but after I get my 8.8 under and chromolys upfront I’ll run 4.88s, elockers, along with 35s. I have a generally good idea about what I’m doing but I still really enjoy all the knowledge and research that goes into and out of your posts !
I have 5.38 gears in my Suzuki samurai with stock axles and I can honestly say the pinion is downright adorable lmfao. Kinda makes me nervous wheeling it on 33s. Thankfully I have a Wagoneer d44 and an 8.8 to replace them soon
@@OrdnanceTV for comparison, that dana 60 has a 10.5 inch (I think) ring gear. My Suzuki axles have a ring gear that is 6.9 inches. So you can imagine how small the pinion is
Great video as always. Love you content! You mentioned that the E Brake on the Disco is located on the drive shaft. I would love to see more about that seeing as I have a GM 14 bolt with the stock disc brakes that have drum e brakes. Thanks in advance.
Hey Nate, excellent instructive video as always. I had a ‘98 disco same color as your current rig. When my V8 got tired and long in the tooth, I bought a 300tdi complete with autobox, wire harness and transfer case from a breaker in England. You could do the same for your disco II. They have TD5’s that will pop right in and wire directly up. You will only have to weld in motor mounts. The zF transmission on the TD5 is electronically programmable and there are a lot of companies selling upgrades to rechip/map the engines. Cheers
D1’s are a fairly easy swap for this, D2’s not really. To drop a TD5 into a V8 you’ll need the complete fuel system front to back, engine bay harness, dash cluster and all the little items. Basically you need to import a wrecked TD5 as a parts truck to ensure you get everything you need. Realistically it’s not worth all the hassle for what you’ll save in fuel in the long run, this is why you don’t see it done, if at all.
@@landyandy9617 I’m not sure what you are getting at here. The V8 has little or nothing to do with it. What does is that the TD5 was designed to go into this vehicle and does so with changes to motor mounts and transmission crossmember. The beauty of doing such a swap is the wiring harnesses mate with the existing harnessing the frame is designed to handle the motor and drivetrain and you don’t have to figure out how to marry a non stock system into your destination vehicle. The rest of what you’re talking about is exactly what you get from a breaker, and yes you could import a “front clip” ( the front half of the vehicle) or you can have the engine to transfer case palleted and crated to ship. Engine swaps are never about “saving money in fuel to pay for the swap”. They are done to achieve a different purpose or to replace a worn out motor. Such swaps are done in the UK, and as I said, have been done here. Cheers
Great video! The info about stress on pinion gears was a little off, but to get into all the detail would require getting way down into the weeds. I’d guess people are breaking them when going from tire spin to traction? Keep up the great content
Interesting. My D2 with 35s and 4:11s is at 2400rpm at 70mph. I'd like to eventually go lower, but may change the gearing in the transfer case instead.
I believe the reasoning behind the thinner ring gears is driven by stress allowables. The ultimate strength of a material generally goes down as plate thickness increases.
I kinda wished I went with 5.13 gears. I currently have 4.88 gears. It’s not really slow enough in 4low with 2.4L 5 speed manual on 35s. The downside is I have the HP D30. Just not sure how strong 5.13s will be. With the formula, I came to 4.66 (31s, on 4.10 gears).
With lower power engines I go even deeper. I think you are right on the money with 5.13s. This is a great example of how this formula gets you in the ball park but doesn't work for everyone. I think using calculators is the best way to get a good idea of how it will perform with the different gear sets. 5.13s will get you way closer to the torque you need with that motor 👍 Good luck dude
Hey Nate, Provided you have the stock LT230 t case in your Disco 2, it has a stock Low range of 3.32:1. Also note that the stock High range for a D2 is 1.211:1. You could find the LT230 serial number stamped on it and use the last 3 "digits" (for example 70D) to make sure. There is also a great ratio calculator on the Ashcroft site. Looking forward for more videos! :)
I have a 86 CJ7 with TF999 trans and 4.10 gears on 32s. Original gears were 2.73s. Now that Arkansas changed to 75 mph speed limit my Jeep is no longer highway friendly due to excessive cruise RPMs. What gears should I switch to for best highway performance. I will never run bigger than a 33 on this Jeep and don't plan on swapping to overdrive trans either. Want to keep it mostly original.
IMO, I thought you did a very good job of explaining how to figure what gear ratio you need when installing bigger tires !!! I am in agreement with you. I would rather have a ( rounding up ) lower gear ratio ( higher numerical number ) because it has less strain ( demand ) on the engine. Enjoyed the video !
Just keep an eye on the land rover transfer case ratios as strong as they are most that im aware of are not 1:1 in high range. I think they may have sone this to be able to run smaller diffs. Ie 3.54 BIGGER pinion than a lower gear set. Well i think any ways.
I like to do it like building a barn if u think u need 24×30 build 32×64 if u think u need 4.88s go 5.13s cuz when u think u need 37s ur probably gonna go 40s 🤣
As far as crawl ratio goes, automatic transmissions already benefit from torque multiplication due to the nature of the converter. If you're running a stick, shoot high.
I have a jku with a rear locker. some other cool things like I’m currently frame chopping the front frame because jk front are so ugly(long). Currently on 35s(34s). I want 4.88 gearing but should I just 4.56? Eventually 37s but that’s in a few years. I’m 22 and currently working but may go back to school, in school money is an issue if I were to spend thousands on a dana30 front to install new gears. 34s would be 2850 going 70 but at 80 with my 3.73 gears I’m over 3k and the engine runs great. I get 18mpg average but suffer on highway from hills and get 16 from 20 in town normally. Love your channel, you inspired me to make DIY mods on my Jeep
I just saw your video Q? Ford f150 dealers offer a supercharger in the 5.0 going from 400hp to 705hp Now it comes with a 3.55 gearing I want to get a 3.73 instead.... what are the pros and cons for durability down the road? Thanks for your video
I like this video, From cruising jeep forums they're hell bent on 4.88's/5.13's for 35's. Seems like they dont like freeways lmao. Using the calculator I came up with that same conclusion on the 4.27 ratio for my jeep, now, they dont really make a 4.27 commonly for d30's in the year I have. So next would be 4.56. Probably what I'm going to go with. I want to wheel a bit but really the idea is overlanding and just being able to go places without having to worry too terribly much. 4.56 seems like the go too unless I make it a moe dedicated off-road vehicle..
Thank you for this video. I bought a 2006 Ford Ranger from a guy that said it had 4.56 gears in it. With this calculator I found out it actually had 5.71 gears. I was able to drop the clutch and the truck would chug along by itself on 31s. It topped out at 73 mph. 2006 Ford Ranger Sport 3.0 V6 2WD Single Cab 6ft bed if anyone wanted to know.
Planning on ordering a 24 Rubicon 4 door, with 35s, 3.6L, will put on roof top tent and maybe tow a couple of times a year. Should I go with the 4.56 or get 4.88 option from factory?
So I’m in a 00 Tacoma TRD so it’s got the 4.10 with 29” tires from factory, I’m running 33s so my Quick Formula answer is 4.66. Should I go with a 4.56 or up to a 4.88? I’ve got the 3.4 V6 with a manual for those wondering
You might of already said this, but askin anyway....Whats better/stronger and ball joints or ford front Dana 60 King Pin Axle...Have to find a frontend for my 1995 f250..Dont like the I-beam Axel....Thanks..ps just a tow/daily driver..
Im building a Ford 9 inch now and a HP D44 for a swap into my Ford Ranger. This answered my questions regarding gearing. I am curious as to how you have build your 9 inch and D44 to handle the 40 inch tires you run.
Knowing your way around Land Rovers, got a question. If I do a small tire size jump on a 2010 Defender 110, just up to 33” tires… is a re-gear still recommended? Standard they came with 31” tires on em, I think.
I’ve been trying to figure out what gear ratio I should go with to be an all around gear for what I do. I live in Arizona. So, I take my 4runner to the dunes(Glamis) a lot where wheel speed is key. But also love going up to the mountains and go crawling. Should I keep the stock 4.10 gear ratio or go with 4.88’s. I have both already. I’m running 35’s as well and LS / th350 and Dual Toy cases
Are you thinking about changing the lt230 low range ratio to help with low range. It’s probably one of my most frustrating parts of my disco when in the high country crawling downhill
I have a tj with stock dana 44s and I want to go to a lower gear cause I'm running 35inch tires on 3.73 gears. There are two different sized carriers for the Dana 44s which would I need? Thought this would be a good talking point.
@@DirtLifestyle here in aus,the foton is cheaper than just buying the 2.8..i read A review on them,it had a few build issues,as well as heat.bearings,ect. might of been a bad review,i dont know,but its all fixable if buy cheap enough. im looking at buying a cheap bmw,auction,stat write off. for the m57 diesel..all alloy,or iron block. need complete car get all the bits..250 hp..ish..i have a brazilian built f250 2002,with a german 4.2 tdi.also fitted silverado,s,with auto,mines 5 sp..tdo6,,700nm..no computer/glow plugs..all mechanical..
Great info but why does everyone focus on diffs rather than tcase? Lowers high and low separately, best of both worlds! Ive recently put a set of 6.4s in my suzuki sierra tcase which lowers high range (1.58 i think) for 31s on the road and lowers low range to 6.4 for crawling.
Awesome channel!!! I have a question about selecting a new gear. My build is to be a overland/trail truck that can crawl some. It’s a 98 dodge 12v auto truck. I’m moving towards 40’s and a 4:56 would have me nearly identical to stock drive-tire ratio. But I agree like you said that bigger tire could use the extra leverage. My variable though is I have a big modified diesel. Upgraded turbo and injectors plus several supporting mods. It has tons of low end torque so would it be any benefit to go to 4:88? That’s a lot of gear for a Cummins. Also I will drive mine to and from the trailhead so I will spend time at 80 on the freeway. Just would like to know your opinion and thoughts, maybe there’s something I missing but it seems 4:56 would be perfect.
Great Gear Content. I would like to re gear my 2019 Silverado Z71 6.2. With a 10 speed transmission. Stock 3.23 gears on front and rear diffs. My truck is on 37s. I can’t find a company that makes a higher gear ratio. Any suggestions?
I have 5.29 s with 38.5 tires in my 93 4 Runner and run 3000 rpm at 50 in 4th, can only use 5th on flat ground so I found some cryo hardend 5.88 gears and Ann building Dana 60 's for it. The Dana 60 have 4.10 and I think my 5.88 will fit on the 4.10 and up carrier. Just need a good locker. I have a Dana 70 with a power lock but it has 3.56 gears. And I think the cut off is at 4.10 ratio. Still learning lol. But I think these 5.88 will let me use 5th gear on the freeway. I like the 5.29's but the axle guy sais 5.29 are weak. I have a 3.0 5 speed, not a power house, but I do run Bogger tires.
I have an 03 RAM 1500 quad-cab 4x4 with the 5.7 HEMI and I have gone from 31.5-inch tires to 35s with the stock ratio of 3.55:1. I drive 50/50 highway and city rarely going above 65-70. When I go off-road it is on the slower side driving up moderate fire roads. Most have said to go with 4.56 gears but some have said that 4.10 was plenty for them. The equation of (35/31.5)*3.55 gives a new ratio of 4.09:1. I don't know what to do. Could you help? Thanks!
Based on the formula on my JK Sport I should round up to 4.56 to run my 35’s on my automatic 2012 JK. If I go to 33’s in the future should I choose 4.10 to run both or 4.56 to run both sizes? Also if I’m not going extreme (no rock crawling) can I just regear my Dana 30 or do I need a 44 and the regear? Thanks
I have a 2009 f150 9.75 rear and my old tire size is 32 new tires 38 but heavy with the wheels I have . And my gear 3.73. Is it a bad idea to go with 5.13 ? I don’t do any off road just street and maybe highway for a hour if i go to the beach . I would like a nice amount torque . Also, not sure if a Eaton Detroit TrueTrac is good I don’t want anything to do with having clutch packs
(cant get it to overdrive) , I went from a 29" inch tires to 35" tires on a 1999 chevy C1500 suburban and I noticed that once in highway truck accelerates decently (given is a heavy truck) but once it reaches about 65-70 in the speedometer (speed is actually faster due to after market 35 inch tires) seems to very slowly increase speed from that point on - it does but you must step on the pedal more and is not as responsive as before - could this be the issue of overdrive not kicking in because of new 35" inch tires messing up the original set up?
Wondering how you can say that a good crawl ratio is 40:1 when the calculation on the site dosen't take tire size into account. Wouldn't a rig on 40'' require a different crawl ration than one on 33'' to achieve the same performance ?
I have a question for you, My 2019 Chevy Express passenger van 2500 6.0L 6L90 6 speed automatic 30.4 " tires 3.42.1 rear gears 6,000 lbs I feel with leaving the stock height tires if my van had a 3.73.1 years it would move the weight more efficiently And I would probably get a bit better gas mileage! What is your opinion?
Dude I have wanted one since they came out. It's a perfect rig in many ways, at least the ways that are important to me lol. Diesel, manual trans, classic looks and 4x4. If I had the money I would own one for sure 👍
R2.8 arent the Foton engines, they are same "family" but redesigned for the Repower program, im sure that Cummins build both F2.8 and R2.8 too but maybe at DongFeng plant?
I know this is way off topic but some things fell in my lap so my diesel swap might come sooner than I thought Where did you get your adapter plate for your om617 to jeep trans? I'll be doing om617 with a zf5 in a 1994 ranger. Thank you for your response
I got mine from Mercedes 4x4 but would never recommend them. I think it was machined incorrectly and there are tons of examples online of poor craftsmanship from this company
@@DirtLifestyle awesome. I guess that's why I couldn't find any links in the videos. I might call advanced adapters and see if they can make one or possibly make my own. Thank you
I'm just a dumb plumber this is to much math. What would you recommend for a 2016 f-150 with the V6 eco boost and would like to run 35's for overlanding.
I am building a tj with a chevy 5.7/4l60e/np231 I am doing jk d44 axles not planning on going over 37 or 38s. What do you think the best gear ratio would be. I'm thinking 4:88
You need to factor in all of the stuff I mention in the video. Weight, power, towing, daily driver vs offroad performance ect. Manual? Automatic? All important thing to consider 👍
Thanjy for this Video, may be I need your help. I bought a 2017 3.6 Wrangler sport with manual shift gear and like to make him a goid off road car. Can you help me? Bye Mark
I've got a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara JL. Two questions: Would I see that much improvement in capability if I go from stock 255/70R18's to 35's with a 2.5" lift? Also I'm assuming going 37's would necessitate a minimum of a 3.5" lift and re-gearing and per your comment about the Dana 30 visa vi pinion size also taking on a move to a Dana 44 from my Dana 30? Thanks.
I have a HP dana 30 on my XJ and I currently have 4.10 gears and 35's. I would like lower gears and am considering 4.56 and 4.88. I would like to keep the pinion as large as possible but am worried that I won't have enough power unless I do 4.88's. What would you recommend? The only driving my Jeep sees is to the trail, the trail and back home since I don't have a trailer yet. I do 3.5-4.0/5 trails.
really interesting video, particularly the various ways of coming up with the 'right' number. I have a Sahara with a 3.45, and just using the tire size ratio would tell me one figure. If I want to 'replicate' Rubicon type performance i should 'pretend' for the math as if i'm going from a 4.10 instead of the actual 3.45. Then definitely round up, maybe 2 steps since my transfer case L is only 2.72, not 4.00. Lots of things to consider. Going crazy deep in a M186 also a terrible idea based on this video..
I was looking at this for my Sport S. I thought I was out of luck and would have to get new diffs to go to something like 4.56 or 4.88 for my m186/m220 axles. Now I’m more interested in if it’s actually a possibility to re gear my stock diffs.
Hi, Nate , I was watching an early video from Bleeping Jeep days and you were talking about useing a drill press as a mill .well this is posable .the only thing you have to watch out for is the size of and depth of your cut. A drill press is set up for down pressure , were as a mill is set up for side, and down pressure . it will still wear the bearings at a faster rate but you can do it .I have done this .the feed rate is also a factor. I was aa machinist for 40 years , and in a pinch you have to be creative .I just thought i would lend my opinion .
Nate with the whiteboard is a killer combo. Thanks to guys like u and OverlandBound i been slowly getting more into wheeling, just yesterday i took my dad and nieces into a valley near my house :D
Nice! Im happy you are enjoying the videos and are getting into this Lifestyle. Offroad with the family is a great combo 👍
Finally. Some concrete advice 😝
My TJ is an 02 X with an 05 Rubicon underneath. 4.0 with 5sp manual and 35s. The 4.10s feel great once up to speed and putting down the highway but man getting up there takes awhile and 1st gear takes a lot of throttle to get going. Really thinking about going to 4.88s if not 5.13s.
Thanks for the info...I double checked my gear selection form a 3.73 on 32's to 4.56 on 35's is the perfect selection (rounding up). Which gets me a bit over for not only the 35's but also I get that little bit extra for towing when needed.
Not sure what you got but if it is an automatic can I ask did you notice a difference in how the transmission would shift once you changed the ratio?
@@maginusjames8859 I have an F150 with an automatic. After going to the 6" lift on 35's with stock 3.73 ratio it was a gutless wonder. After going to 4.56 gears it was back to normal with a but more torque. Stock with 35's the gear change would have been 4.30 but they do not make 4.30 in both front and rear so went one step higher to a 4.56.
@@maginusjames8859 I Also, invested in a hand held programmer. It canl assist with changing the gear ratio, shift points as well as odometer programing to fix the MPH.
Yo Nate, Great job! Your explanation was better than anyone who has every tried to help me understand these things You rock!
I found that a horizontal bandsaw is the way to go. You can do so much more with a bandsaw than a 14" circular saw. The only disadvantage is the initial cost. I love your channel. It is good to see a regular guy build quality stuff without having a half million dollars worth of equipment in his shop. Keep up the good work.
I have a 4x6" bandsaw and a 12" carbide saw. The bandsaw is gathering dust now.
Thank you again Professor Nate! another clear and concise informative video. one of the best that i have seen on this subject.
Thanks dude 👍
The one exception to carrier break is the ford 9” same carrier for all gear sets. Got to love it strong simple to set up, there is a reason they have been and will be the axle of choice for drag racing for years.
I like my 5.29's on my 35's on my 93 4 runner. In fact I might go to 5.71 unless I can get something in the 5.55 area. I have Yukon thick, 5.29 gears. But the guy who rebuilt my rear end and installed my Eaton E locker said I should use 4.88 and showed me a 5.29 pinion that was shredded and said that the 4.88 was the strongest gear in a Toyota rear end. It makes good power for a 3.0 in town I'm at about 3000 rpm for 35 mph driving. And it will,do 75 mph at 3500 rpm so not to bad. But can hardly use 5th gear. Makes a huge difference in how powerful the rig feels.
Awesome video on gearing calculations! I ended up reviewing what I’m currently running, with this process, just to see if it matches up with what I had done earlier this year. Keep up the good work, and keep using that whiteboard!
I just 5.13 everything. My Yukon my Gladiator my old Tacoma.....it just feels better on and off-road.
U got overdrive though...
Appreciated the recommendations on crawl ratios for automatics vs manual transmissions - thanks!
Good to see you doing your own thing thank you i learn about carrier deck height today keep up the good work
BMW have a diesel option ,look for M57 diesel it is 6 inline 3l that makes decent power with some tunes ,you can find it on the X5 335d
Super popular with off road swaps in my country. Patrol toyotas mitsubishis everyone swaps in a m57.
perfect timing, was looking into this very topic; have an old yj that I am going to put in some trutracs in, where I have the default 3:54 ratio. not a crawler by any means, mostly daily but want some offroad space, and also want some winter reassurance.
Makes sense to me and am not a mechanic by any stretch.....work with tools building for living but not autos
Very well explained and common sense prevails once again
Running 3.73s on 33s on my TJ (4.0,AX15) does alright, is a little of a dog, but after I get my 8.8 under and chromolys upfront I’ll run 4.88s, elockers, along with 35s. I have a generally good idea about what I’m doing but I still really enjoy all the knowledge and research that goes into and out of your posts !
I love my Evolution saw. I've noticed the metals don't get near as hot with it compared to abrasives. And of course it cuts way faster.
I'm glad you made and I watched this video! You did basic answer a question I was Dwelling over this weekend in regards to deck height/gear thickness.
Ahhhh ! Light bulb moment.
Been scratching the bean for awhile.
Thanks for some clarity!
Thanks for the video you answered my thick gear mystery
Fantastic video. Makes a complex subject really clear. Brilliant job sir!
I have 5.38 gears in my Suzuki samurai with stock axles and I can honestly say the pinion is downright adorable lmfao. Kinda makes me nervous wheeling it on 33s. Thankfully I have a Wagoneer d44 and an 8.8 to replace them soon
Hahaha, love this, I gotta go look up some pics!
@@OrdnanceTV for comparison, that dana 60 has a 10.5 inch (I think) ring gear. My Suzuki axles have a ring gear that is 6.9 inches. So you can imagine how small the pinion is
I have an 8.8 in my YJ. Damn good axle, quite beefy
Wouldn't it be easier to Change the Ratio in the Transfer Case? Plus increased relyability?
@@klausklautgern4870 that wouldn't help me turn 33 inch tires with 90 horses on the street though.
Im going with ether 3:73s or 4:10s with prolly 40s my big block im setting up to just make most of its tourqe off idle
Sweet! great video Nate. Thank you for the information.
No problem!
Great video as always. Love you content! You mentioned that the E Brake on the Disco is located on the drive shaft. I would love to see more about that seeing as I have a GM 14 bolt with the stock disc brakes that have drum e brakes. Thanks in advance.
Hey Nate, excellent instructive video as always. I had a ‘98 disco same color as your current rig. When my V8 got tired and long in the tooth, I bought a 300tdi complete with autobox, wire harness and transfer case from a breaker in England. You could do the same for your disco II. They have TD5’s that will pop right in and wire directly up. You will only have to weld in motor mounts. The zF transmission on the TD5 is electronically programmable and there are a lot of companies selling upgrades to rechip/map the engines.
Cheers
D1’s are a fairly easy swap for this, D2’s not really. To drop a TD5 into a V8 you’ll need the complete fuel system front to back, engine bay harness, dash cluster and all the little items. Basically you need to import a wrecked TD5 as a parts truck to ensure you get everything you need. Realistically it’s not worth all the hassle for what you’ll save in fuel in the long run, this is why you don’t see it done, if at all.
@@landyandy9617 I’m not sure what you are getting at here. The V8 has little or nothing to do with it. What does is that the TD5 was designed to go into this vehicle and does so with changes to motor mounts and transmission crossmember. The beauty of doing such a swap is the wiring harnesses mate with the existing harnessing the frame is designed to handle the motor and drivetrain and you don’t have to figure out how to marry a non stock system into your destination vehicle.
The rest of what you’re talking about is exactly what you get from a breaker, and yes you could import a “front clip” ( the front half of the vehicle) or you can have the engine to transfer case palleted and crated to ship.
Engine swaps are never about “saving money in fuel to pay for the swap”. They are done to achieve a different purpose or to replace a worn out motor.
Such swaps are done in the UK, and as I said, have been done here. Cheers
I finally got the answers I was looking for. Great video. Thanks!
Great video! The info about stress on pinion gears was a little off, but to get into all the detail would require getting way down into the weeds. I’d guess people are breaking them when going from tire spin to traction? Keep up the great content
I'm about to but a 4.56 in my 87 yj wrangler. Going to end up running 33s... maybe 35s....
Interesting. My D2 with 35s and 4:11s is at 2400rpm at 70mph. I'd like to eventually go lower, but may change the gearing in the transfer case instead.
NBD, Jeep Patriot, Deisal swap, solid axles, long arm kit, low range transfer case, 35 or 37 in tires. This would be so interesting an entertaining!
I believe the reasoning behind the thinner ring gears is driven by stress allowables. The ultimate strength of a material generally goes down as plate thickness increases.
Interesting
I kinda wished I went with 5.13 gears. I currently have 4.88 gears. It’s not really slow enough in 4low with 2.4L 5 speed manual on 35s. The downside is I have the HP D30. Just not sure how strong 5.13s will be.
With the formula, I came to 4.66 (31s, on 4.10 gears).
With lower power engines I go even deeper. I think you are right on the money with 5.13s. This is a great example of how this formula gets you in the ball park but doesn't work for everyone. I think using calculators is the best way to get a good idea of how it will perform with the different gear sets. 5.13s will get you way closer to the torque you need with that motor 👍
Good luck dude
Can you run 5.13 5.38 on a d30? I did not think they made those since the ring gear is so small.
Hey Nate,
Provided you have the stock LT230 t case in your Disco 2, it has a stock Low range of 3.32:1.
Also note that the stock High range for a D2 is 1.211:1.
You could find the LT230 serial number stamped on it and use the last 3 "digits" (for example 70D) to make sure.
There is also a great ratio calculator on the Ashcroft site.
Looking forward for more videos! :)
I have a 86 CJ7 with TF999 trans and 4.10 gears on 32s. Original gears were 2.73s. Now that Arkansas changed to 75 mph speed limit my Jeep is no longer highway friendly due to excessive cruise RPMs. What gears should I switch to for best highway performance. I will never run bigger than a 33 on this Jeep and don't plan on swapping to overdrive trans either. Want to keep it mostly original.
IMO, I thought you did a very good job of explaining how to figure what gear ratio you need when installing bigger tires !!! I am in agreement with you. I would rather have a ( rounding up ) lower gear ratio ( higher numerical number ) because it has less strain ( demand ) on the engine. Enjoyed the video !
Great video and great explanation.
Just keep an eye on the land rover transfer case ratios as strong as they are most that im aware of are not 1:1 in high range. I think they may have sone this to be able to run smaller diffs. Ie 3.54 BIGGER pinion than a lower gear set. Well i think any ways.
I like to do it like building a barn if u think u need 24×30 build 32×64 if u think u need 4.88s go 5.13s cuz when u think u need 37s ur probably gonna go 40s 🤣
As far as crawl ratio goes, automatic transmissions already benefit from torque multiplication due to the nature of the converter. If you're running a stick, shoot high.
If no one has mentioned it yet, diablo has that newer carbide metal blade. Checked my craftsman miter saw and its within the RPM range.
Great job breaking it down Nate. Love you channel.
I have a jku with a rear locker. some other cool things like I’m currently frame chopping the front frame because jk front are so ugly(long). Currently on 35s(34s). I want 4.88 gearing but should I just 4.56? Eventually 37s but that’s in a few years. I’m 22 and currently working but may go back to school, in school money is an issue if I were to spend thousands on a dana30 front to install new gears. 34s would be 2850 going 70 but at 80 with my 3.73 gears I’m over 3k and the engine runs great. I get 18mpg average but suffer on highway from hills and get 16 from 20 in town normally. Love your channel, you inspired me to make DIY mods on my Jeep
Thank you for talking about the high/low carriers 👍🏻
I just saw your video
Q?
Ford f150 dealers offer a supercharger in the 5.0 going from 400hp to 705hp
Now it comes with a 3.55 gearing
I want to get a 3.73 instead.... what are the pros and cons for durability down the road? Thanks for your video
I like this video,
From cruising jeep forums they're hell bent on 4.88's/5.13's for 35's. Seems like they dont like freeways lmao.
Using the calculator I came up with that same conclusion on the 4.27 ratio for my jeep, now, they dont really make a 4.27 commonly for d30's in the year I have. So next would be 4.56. Probably what I'm going to go with. I want to wheel a bit but really the idea is overlanding and just being able to go places without having to worry too terribly much. 4.56 seems like the go too unless I make it a moe dedicated off-road vehicle..
Thank you for this video. I bought a 2006 Ford Ranger from a guy that said it had 4.56 gears in it. With this calculator I found out it actually had 5.71 gears. I was able to drop the clutch and the truck would chug along by itself on 31s. It topped out at 73 mph. 2006 Ford Ranger Sport 3.0 V6 2WD Single Cab 6ft bed if anyone wanted to know.
Planning on ordering a 24 Rubicon 4 door, with 35s, 3.6L, will put on roof top tent and maybe tow a couple of times a year. Should I go with the 4.56 or get 4.88 option from factory?
So I’m in a 00 Tacoma TRD so it’s got the 4.10 with 29” tires from factory, I’m running 33s so my Quick Formula answer is 4.66. Should I go with a 4.56 or up to a 4.88? I’ve got the 3.4 V6 with a manual for those wondering
Thank you for that huge amount of great information on gears. Learned a lot!
I think a few companies make a cold saw blade to swap out for an abrasive blade. Diablo I think has a few sizes.
You might of already said this, but askin anyway....Whats better/stronger and ball joints or ford front Dana 60 King Pin Axle...Have to find a frontend for my 1995 f250..Dont like the I-beam Axel....Thanks..ps just a tow/daily driver..
Im building a Ford 9 inch now and a HP D44 for a swap into my Ford Ranger. This answered my questions regarding gearing. I am curious as to how you have build your 9 inch and D44 to handle the 40 inch tires you run.
Wonder if you could put a smaller 8" metal blade on a 12-14" abrasive/wood saw to get the RPMs in the right range.
Knowing your way around Land Rovers, got a question. If I do a small tire size jump on a 2010 Defender 110, just up to 33” tires… is a re-gear still recommended? Standard they came with 31” tires on em, I think.
They probably split carriers to reduce production costs also would add a lot of rotating mass
great stuff Nate! I'd love to be able to put a diesel into my '11 xTerra. Not sure if it's even possible
I’ve been trying to figure out what gear ratio I should go with to be an all around gear for what I do. I live in Arizona. So, I take my 4runner to the dunes(Glamis) a lot where wheel speed is key. But also love going up to the mountains and go crawling. Should I keep the stock 4.10 gear ratio or go with 4.88’s. I have both already. I’m running 35’s as well and LS / th350 and Dual Toy cases
looking for the best way to convert set of dana 44s from 6 to 8 lug
As always Nate, awesome informative video. Very few others have as good content, thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts.
Are you thinking about changing the lt230 low range ratio to help with low range. It’s probably one of my most frustrating parts of my disco when in the high country crawling downhill
Reno local 350! I'm not part of any union but that is my home town. Dang, what are the chances?
Great descriptions well explained
I have a tj with stock dana 44s and I want to go to a lower gear cause I'm running 35inch tires on 3.73 gears. There are two different sized carriers for the Dana 44s which would I need? Thought this would be a good talking point.
The 1 dislike is from a baby-carrot sized pinion gear.
Lol
@@DirtLifestyle here in aus,the foton is cheaper than just buying the 2.8..i read A review on them,it had a few build issues,as well as heat.bearings,ect. might of been a bad review,i dont know,but its all fixable if buy cheap enough. im looking at buying a cheap bmw,auction,stat write off. for the m57 diesel..all alloy,or iron block. need complete car get all the bits..250 hp..ish..i have a brazilian built f250 2002,with a german 4.2 tdi.also fitted silverado,s,with auto,mines 5 sp..tdo6,,700nm..no computer/glow plugs..all mechanical..
Great info but why does everyone focus on diffs rather than tcase? Lowers high and low separately, best of both worlds!
Ive recently put a set of 6.4s in my suzuki sierra tcase which lowers high range (1.58 i think) for 31s on the road and lowers low range to 6.4 for crawling.
I need help with finding what axles, gears and tires I should do on my 1986 dodge d50 2.6 5speed 4wd
Great video! Well explained!
Great stuff Nate!
Awesome channel!!! I have a question about selecting a new gear. My build is to be a overland/trail truck that can crawl some. It’s a 98 dodge 12v auto truck. I’m moving towards 40’s and a 4:56 would have me nearly identical to stock drive-tire ratio. But I agree like you said that bigger tire could use the extra leverage. My variable though is I have a big modified diesel. Upgraded turbo and injectors plus several supporting mods. It has tons of low end torque so would it be any benefit to go to 4:88? That’s a lot of gear for a Cummins. Also I will drive mine to and from the trailhead so I will spend time at 80 on the freeway. Just would like to know your opinion and thoughts, maybe there’s something I missing but it seems 4:56 would be perfect.
Can you recommend a diff shop in Tacoma area (I live in Gig Harbor) for a regear on a 2021 Tacoma. Thanks!
What gear company do recommend? Thanks so much.
Great Gear Content. I would like to re gear my 2019 Silverado Z71 6.2. With a 10 speed transmission. Stock 3.23 gears on front and rear diffs. My truck is on 37s. I can’t find a company that makes a higher gear ratio. Any suggestions?
My 01 TJ with a 4.0 had 3.07 years from factory, crazy
Aren't they the worst? ha
My options are,
55.6 to 1
78.9 to 1 &
214.1
I have 5.29 s with 38.5 tires in my 93 4 Runner and run 3000 rpm at 50 in 4th, can only use 5th on flat ground so I found some cryo hardend 5.88 gears and Ann building Dana 60 's for it. The Dana 60 have 4.10 and I think my 5.88 will fit on the 4.10 and up carrier. Just need a good locker. I have a Dana 70 with a power lock but it has 3.56 gears. And I think the cut off is at 4.10 ratio. Still learning lol. But I think these 5.88 will let me use 5th gear on the freeway. I like the 5.29's but the axle guy sais 5.29 are weak. I have a 3.0 5 speed, not a power house, but I do run Bogger tires.
Do you know what would be a good ratio to go with a Jeep JT Ecodiesel 3.0 on 37's?
I have an 03 RAM 1500 quad-cab 4x4 with the 5.7 HEMI and I have gone from 31.5-inch tires to 35s with the stock ratio of 3.55:1. I drive 50/50 highway and city rarely going above 65-70. When I go off-road it is on the slower side driving up moderate fire roads. Most have said to go with 4.56 gears but some have said that 4.10 was plenty for them. The equation of (35/31.5)*3.55 gives a new ratio of 4.09:1. I don't know what to do. Could you help? Thanks!
Based on the formula on my JK Sport I should round up to 4.56 to run my 35’s on my automatic 2012 JK. If I go to 33’s in the future should I choose 4.10 to run both or 4.56 to run both sizes? Also if I’m not going extreme (no rock crawling) can I just regear my Dana 30 or do I need a 44 and the regear? Thanks
Thanks nate! This is great advice!
I have a 2009 f150 9.75 rear and my old tire size is 32 new tires 38 but heavy with the wheels I have . And my gear 3.73. Is it a bad idea to go with 5.13 ? I don’t do any off road just street and maybe highway for a hour if i go to the beach . I would like a nice amount torque . Also, not sure if a Eaton Detroit TrueTrac is good I don’t want anything to do with having clutch packs
(cant get it to overdrive) , I went from a 29" inch tires to 35" tires on a 1999 chevy C1500 suburban and I noticed that once in highway truck accelerates decently (given is a heavy truck) but once it reaches about 65-70 in the speedometer (speed is actually faster due to after market 35 inch tires) seems to very slowly increase speed from that point on - it does but you must step on the pedal more and is not as responsive as before - could this be the issue of overdrive not kicking in because of new 35" inch tires messing up the original set up?
Wondering how you can say that a good crawl ratio is 40:1 when the calculation on the site dosen't take tire size into account. Wouldn't a rig on 40'' require a different crawl ration than one on 33'' to achieve the same performance ?
I have a question for you,
My 2019 Chevy Express passenger van 2500
6.0L 6L90 6 speed automatic
30.4 " tires
3.42.1 rear gears
6,000 lbs
I feel with leaving the stock height tires if my van had a 3.73.1 years it would move the weight more efficiently
And I would probably get a bit better gas mileage!
What is your opinion?
Any thoughts on the Roxor diesel? Was looking at the Roxor a while back, building it to road legal. Just wondering.
Dude I have wanted one since they came out. It's a perfect rig in many ways, at least the ways that are important to me lol. Diesel, manual trans, classic looks and 4x4. If I had the money I would own one for sure 👍
@@DirtLifestyle Had them on display at the local farm show last year, starting at around $15k...
R2.8 arent the Foton engines, they are same "family" but redesigned for the Repower program, im sure that Cummins build both F2.8 and R2.8 too but maybe at DongFeng plant?
Great video ,, thanks
I know this is way off topic but some things fell in my lap so my diesel swap might come sooner than I thought
Where did you get your adapter plate for your om617 to jeep trans? I'll be doing om617 with a zf5 in a 1994 ranger. Thank you for your response
I got mine from Mercedes 4x4 but would never recommend them. I think it was machined incorrectly and there are tons of examples online of poor craftsmanship from this company
@@DirtLifestyle awesome. I guess that's why I couldn't find any links in the videos. I might call advanced adapters and see if they can make one or possibly make my own. Thank you
I'm just a dumb plumber this is to much math. What would you recommend for a 2016 f-150 with the V6 eco boost and would like to run 35's for overlanding.
I don’t understand why tire size wouldn’t be field needed to calculate the crawl ratio in Crawlpedia.
Great work man! You're always putting out top notch content and great topics 👊
I am building a tj with a chevy 5.7/4l60e/np231 I am doing jk d44 axles not planning on going over 37 or 38s. What do you think the best gear ratio would be. I'm thinking 4:88
You need to factor in all of the stuff I mention in the video. Weight, power, towing, daily driver vs offroad performance ect. Manual? Automatic? All important thing to consider 👍
Thanjy for this Video, may be I need your help. I bought a 2017 3.6 Wrangler sport with manual shift gear and like to make him a goid off road car. Can you help me?
Bye Mark
I've got a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara JL. Two questions: Would I see that much improvement in capability if I go from stock 255/70R18's to 35's with a 2.5" lift? Also I'm assuming going 37's would necessitate a minimum of a 3.5" lift and re-gearing and per your comment about the Dana 30 visa vi pinion size also taking on a move to a Dana 44 from my Dana 30? Thanks.
I have a HP dana 30 on my XJ and I currently have 4.10 gears and 35's. I would like lower gears and am considering 4.56 and 4.88. I would like to keep the pinion as large as possible but am worried that I won't have enough power unless I do 4.88's. What would you recommend? The only driving my Jeep sees is to the trail, the trail and back home since I don't have a trailer yet. I do 3.5-4.0/5 trails.
really interesting video, particularly the various ways of coming up with the 'right' number. I have a Sahara with a 3.45, and just using the tire size ratio would tell me one figure. If I want to 'replicate' Rubicon type performance i should 'pretend' for the math as if i'm going from a 4.10 instead of the actual 3.45. Then definitely round up, maybe 2 steps since my transfer case L is only 2.72, not 4.00. Lots of things to consider. Going crazy deep in a M186 also a terrible idea based on this video..
I was looking at this for my Sport S. I thought I was out of luck and would have to get new diffs to go to something like 4.56 or 4.88 for my m186/m220 axles. Now I’m more interested in if it’s actually a possibility to re gear my stock diffs.
Nate, never heard of a failed 5.38 even in a D35, shafts ect. yes but never the pinion. Is it really a issue to consider?
This is a serious issue to consider. Lots of examples of ring and pinion failures from all make and models. The more power, the bigger the risk 👍
Nate also what axle do u recommend for a 96 montero?? Front and back.