e36 - Rear Subframe Refresh. R53 Mini Cooper S. Adding the R56 aluminum trailing arms.
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- That's episode 36, not E36 BMW. I refresh the rear end on my R53 Mini Project Car.
New R56 trailing arms, Powerflex trailing arm bracket bushings , end links, sway/anti-roll bar, e-brake cables, custom adjustable control arms.
Previous video where I drop the sub frame:
• e35 - R53 Mini 2006 Re...
Video where I build the custom control arms you see in the video:
• How to Make Custom Con...
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Tools and Parts Links (I make a commission on any Amazon links):
All Mag Auto parts Trailing arm conversion kit.
www.allmagauto...
Haynes Manual I use -
haynes.pxf.io/...
amzn.to/3EFDSER
e-Brake Cables - RAYBESTOS BC97004 and BC97005
Wheel hubs - ULTRA-POWER 512427
End Links - Delphi TC2154-11B1
Trailing Arm Bushings - Powerflex PFR5-1103BLK
Sway Bar - Hotchkis Sport Suspension 22810R
Camera Gear
Sony ZV-E10 - amzn.to/426ZEM4
Sony 11mm F1.8 Lens - amzn.to/3WfCAIS
7Artisans 35mm F1.4 Lens - amzn.to/3Mk6pDA
Ulanzi MT-47 Tripod - amzn.to/42o2JXN
K&F 64" Tripod - amzn.to/3ANBY3d
SAMLLRIG Camera Cage - amzn.to/3nnMB9P
Newer 176 LED light - amzn.to/420nWXU
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All in all a great video 👍
The main problem with the aluminum and torque settings isn't actually too much torque (ask how I know...). The problem is that for connecting the arm to the shock and the bushing, BMW used triangular self-tapping threaded bolts. Each time you put the bolts in and remove them, you are recutting threads in slightly different spots. As most of these conversions are from salvaged trailing arms, there is a likelihood that those two threaded holes have been rethreaded 2-3 times already. Then when you put the full torque into the bolt, there is less than a full thread of aluminum left to bear the pulling force.
My biggest suggestion is if you plan to do this mod and also plan to change your shocks, do both projects at the same time to reduce the number of times you need to remove and reinsert the lower shock bolt (the one that tends to have the threads break free the most).
This is actually really good information! That makes a lot of sense.
I do plan to eventually do the shocks but that wasn’t in the budget this year. Also I want to get some track time with stock suspension before upgrades.
My Mini specialist claims that the heat shields under the car are next to useless and can be removed if you also want to consider that option. It’d be much less of a hassle to heat wrap the exhaust from my understanding
Heads up those rear calipers need to be twisted in as theyre compressed, the tool looks correct but maybe they twist the opposite direction? I tapped mine with a hammer and that broke it loose, probably something tight in the ebrake mechanism
Appreciate the feedback! The kit I got has compressors to spin both ways but this bad boy was just not moving. I ended up replacing the calliper and it went a lot smoother. I guess that’s what happens when you let a car sit for months/years :)
I replaced all my heat shields when I did my rear subframe. They’re surprisingly cheap from the dealer. I’m in ON too. You clearly won’t daily your R53 so new shields won’t rot like the original ones.
Oh interesting. I just assumed it was going to be insanely expensive. I’ll look into it!
Geez. I am doing pretty much the same thing to my R53 soon except I will also be replacing the shocks and keeping the stock upper control arms. I already have all my parts except for the PowerFlex trailing arm bushings and the new rear wheel hubs. Originally, my rear suspension refresh was going to be "the easy part" compared to what I'm doing up front but after watching your video, it seems it will be the "easier" part of the project but not exactly easy.
Also, you are hardcore going with the black Powerflex bushings and swaybar set to firm. I'm going with purple PowerFlex and swaybar set at the softest setting. Even at the softest setting, I'm concerned it is still a big jump from stock and I might have an oversteer problem. I can't wait to find out for sure though!
I wouldn’t go black if I was going to daily the car. Eventually I want to be doing more track days, that is the idea anyway.
This mod was supposed to be a quick one before summer. Ha. Never works that way.
Great video amigo. I almost prepped a piston to install :)
Love the intro music too
Another great review 👍
OMG, Not a Haynes manual ?!! A factory workshop manual is always 10 times better..... Btw, always fun to look at your videos., always something to learn...As soon as my garage is built, I.ll begin to work on my 2006 mini cooper, I possibly have to swap the engine.....
If you have a link to the factory manual I’d love to get it. Specifically I have recent need to know the torque spec on the oil squirter bolts. Glad you like the videos!
I've got the Haynes & the Bentley manual so am interested in the factory manual as well if you can post up a link for it.
Cheers
Been watching your channel for ova a year and truly helped me 2 understand how 2 get around things and 2 buy the right parts, I own a 2006 R52 JCW, gotta admit is a luv n hate relationship with this cars. Wanna ask, You did replace the radiator right? Did u get the stock one or the aluminium double row, if it was the second, which brand did u go 4? cheers mate
I did replace the radiator but just with an oem replacement off rock auto, nothing fancy. Thanks for watching. The love hate relationship is real! This year will be the first time the car is running for the whole summer so fingers crossed nothing else goes wrong.
Very good and informative
@ 9:15 I was screaming at the screen, "Don't do it, the control arm bolts and sway bar SUCK to install if the subframe is in place. You are gonna end up taking everything back off." And then the small note popped up.
I realize right at the last second that the sway bar would be hard/impossible after the subframe was bolted in.
Great video as normal.
Check E Bay for the tunnel heat shield, the tunnel will get to hot if you just put the gold film on & it's open to the elements without the shield so won't last long.
Looking forward to the squirter resolution, I'm not to good with the W11 engine so be interested to see what you come up with. 👍
Me too lol
High great vids. On the Torque settings did you do the 103ftb on lower bolt or the 122ftb and how nervous were you.
I went the full 122. After looking at the two arms I noticed the r53 had basically a welded on nut on one side vs the R56 which is threaded the whole way through. Figured that explained the difference. Was nervous but it worked.
Hi, are the trailing bush brackets the samebetween the old and new one?
Yeah they are the same
man you was doing so well until you turned up with the baseball cap on back to front!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ghah! Cut your zip ties right!
Well I put them on the wrong control arm so I’ll do them again and make ‘em pretty. :)