Project 63 part 12 - Mini rear subframe install, with anti-rollbar and upgrades
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- Опубліковано 18 лис 2021
- We (finally!) refit the rear subframe, with a host of fast road upgrades.
Part 11 - • Project 63 part 11 - M...
--Video Contents--
2:52 - Prepping the frame
3:39 - Installing the radius arms
5:50 - Tracking brackets
7:10 - Suspension cones
9:30 - Handbrake brackets
10:40 - Anti-rollbar upgrade
13:10 - Brake valve and lines
15:30 - Subframe mounts
16:50 - Battery and brake lines
17:30 - Refitting the frame
www.med-engineering.co.uk - Авто та транспорт
Finally someone else who puts the rear mount bolts in from underneath to keep the bare threads in the boot instead of covered in road muck 👍
how close to the fuel tank are they ? in a rear end crash can they contact and pierce the tank ... also the Engineering reason for the bolts to be downhill is that if the nuts fall off you would feel a certain amount of movement and get it fixed, however when uphill the bolts can fall out easily and the rear of the subframe would then be loose to move about fairly easily.
@@martinfidel7086 plenty of room, I'd not be concerned about either of those issues, the amount these are driven compared to the frequency the bolts are looked at and checked both would never fall out and it's quite far from the tank, an accident that would puncture the tank would leave me with much bigger problems!
@@ClassicMinishorts I just remember the Ford "pinto" fires and these are close enough in a rear end to deform and make contact, the bolts are directly underneath the tank, it's why I asked the question.
Best rear subframe fit up video out there. Well done. Keep them coming.
Reminds me of my Morris Mini Mk1 I had 15 years ago here in New Zealand. Mine was a 1965 build and one of the last models that were imported from the UK, then soon after a plant in Australia started making them for the Australasia market. The engine was the simple and economical 850cc unit. It was a non-runner, the previous owner had used it as a parts car but he had not stripped it too much, the 'magic wand' gearlever was missing as was the single bazel speedometer and cam cover. It was an easy project, but work commitments and other things got in the way, so I had to sell it. The buyer was a Mini enthusiast, so I am glad it went to a good home.
Brilliant video guys, always enjoy watching them 👍
Great vid....enjoyed watching 👍🏻
Glad to see your videos are back again, top job👍
Thanks for the support. We're aiming to post once a fortnight, but time just runs away!
Wish we had had those ride height adjusters back in 1965!
really nice videos...congrats and regards from Chile
Very nice episode
Gosh, Now on the latest video - thanks
Interesting easy to understand engineering.
Great video.
Clear video, unfortunately I believe your rear trunions are around the wrong way the smaller part to back valance allows you to get bolt in easier, also bolts pass through from boot floor and nuts underneath.👍
Very smart and very neat job! A most instructional video, well done guys. Good luck with the move.
Rob of Newbold Verdon
top work again gents
Brilliant, thanks a bunch
Great work, chaps, just happened upon your channel.
Did my first Rsub in '89 and always fancied the handling had suffered a tad.
This of course likely down ro the tracking brackets you've just mentioned!
🙄
I found the red dot cones to raise the front quite a lot. Haven't driven it yet, but I hope they will settle a little bit more. I have hi-lows, but cant get the car as low as I hoped.
They will settle a fair amount after a few heat cycles
👍
great video, any video's of getting the car on the axel stands or explanation of how as I have the same axle stands but i have only ever used them on my van. regards Lewis
Thanks Lewis. If you're doing all this at home, a good trolley jack and many sturdy blocks of wood will be your friend.
I quite agree, wet paint every time. Powder coating is rubbish, as carried out by the vast mojority of operators.
Great lerning Video on the rear subframe.
Do you have the extended brake lines for the Mk IV??
Thank you. Yes - they're the same across all years.
I'm going through this process with my '64 'S', so I appreciate the great sessions you produce. You use copper slip frequently, but I'm wondering if aluminium slip (because I already have it) is OK in these situations or are there corrosion issues to consider?
We've not used aluminium slip; not sure on that one.
Aluminium grease works just as well: possibly better in locations where there’s no heat involved. Seems more durable too, if the difficulty of wiping it off your hands is anything to go by…
Thanks willgrime
Great set up and another interesting video I am restoring my mini moke at the moment and would love to purchase the anti roll bar at the rear do you sell this or can you please inform me as to were I can buy the same set up as I live in Australia cheers
Hi, yes we list this on our website in the suspension section :)
Any update on the tracking brackets?
Around the 10:00 mark, I see you torque the bolts. Where are you getting the numbers from? I have two Haynes books and none list any values. Maybe I need another book??
It should be listed in the Haynes manual, if not, have a search for the thread size and grade online and you'll get a sensible ball park figure. We normally tighten many parts up by feel.
What is the reasoning behind fitting an anti-roll bar on a road car? Love to hear your thinking behind this…. Cheers, Will
A rear anti-rollbar works well on fast road Minis to dial out understeer. It allows you to run a softer setting on the dampers to improve ride without compromising the cornering agility.
"Steve's done a reasonably good job..."
Give him a slap for that Steve 😀
Is the red dot rubber cone not too strong for the rear axle ?
I dont think they are stronger perse. They are a bit higher, so have more travel, and have a different compression curve.
Most Minis that run with worn or really old cones basically have 'harder' cones as they dont have suspension travel left.
I don’t understand why a plain washer is fitted under a spring washer. The spring washer’s job is to bite into the bolt head and the item being fastened if the bolt starts to loosen. If there is a plain washer between it and the part, the spring washer will tend to bite into the plain washer and they both will turn with the bolt instead of stopping it.
In about 1968 NASA determined that spring washers were in fact worse than no washers.
I'm glad you didn't fit my brake pipes.!!!you should only fit copper nickel.just check the specs.kevin
We've been using similar pipe for decades with no issues.
@@MEDEngineeringTechVideos obviously you haven't been in my world.ive been a m o t tester for 50yrs.copper does fracture thats why I don't use it.again I must state look at the stats.kevin
Not sure what the concern here is. I assume you’re using Kunifer tubing, which is copper/nickel/steel (Cu Ni Fer, get it?), and offers a practical mixture of durability and strength. Pure copper is available, but is prone to fatigue cracking, if only from the repeated pressurising and depressurising of the brake line. Pure steel is also available, but rusts like a bugger. Stainless would be nice, but it is strong and hard (as well as shiny!) and that makes it difficult to bend and flare.
Bundy tubing is different to Kunifer: it’s made by rolling a strip of copper-coated steel into a double-walled tube, and brazing along the overlap: nice and stiff (ie. It doesn’t balloon when you pressurise the contents) but prone to corrosion after a while, which is why car manufacturers stopped using it before the seventies were out.
Not sure what you are saying.?my answer is straight forward.
Please, stop referring to bolts as screws. Very different styles and what they can be used for.
Set screws, nut and bolt, we know the difference. But thanks for the comment!
@@MEDEngineeringTechVideos so why not use the correct terms of have you had to look it up for five days.
@@TC-qd1zw We do not monitor the UA-cam comments regularly. Let us know when you've made a video and we'll check it out. All the best.