Part 1 of 2 - Dropping Subframe on a Mini Cooper 🚗 replace Control Arm Bush, Inner Ball Joints.
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- Having just bought this Mini Cooper and being the first Mini I have ever owned I was pretty excited to get driving. The previous owner had mentioned an ABS light that sometimes came on and that
PART 2 CLICK HERE ➡ • Part 2 of 2 - Dropping... ⬅
⬇️💥⬇️ Links Below & Donations ⬇️💥⬇️ this would be an MOT fail hence her reason for selling. So with my fingers crossed I put the Mini in for it's MOT. It didn't fail on the ABS light but did on a single Control Arm Bush. How hard can that be? should be a quick job..........it wasn't !!!!! The subframe has to come off the car to do it. So while that's off I best change the Inner Ball Joints, the Anti Roll Bar Bushes, Drop links and the other Control Arm Bush. On the plus side it's a crash course in getting to know your car.
⚡Useful Tools Some Used In This Video
1️⃣ Front Control Arm Bush Installation Tool: - - - amzn.to/3qnjqzI
2️⃣ FRONT WISHBONE REAR BUSHES: - - - amzn.to/3tWYH8j
3️⃣ Anti Roll Bar Bush: - - - amzn.to/37e4P2m
4️⃣ Polyurethane Bushes R50/R53: - - - amzn.to/2Ns02mQ
5️⃣ febi bilstein 22438 Control Arm Bush: - - - amzn.to/3tYvA4t
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⬇️Timecodes
00:00 Introduction
00:00 Control Arm Bush
01:25 Opening Bonnet
02:02 Jacking Mini Up
03:38 Remove Mini Control Arm
07:22 R50 Subframe Dropping
08:31 Undo Subframe Bolts
09:22 Remove Mini Undertray
09:57 Remove Droplink Bar
11:38 Remove Trackrod End
12:10 Coolant & Power Steering Bottle
13:25 Steering Joint Bolt
14:06 Front Outer Bumper
14:28 Bumper Support Member
14:47 Lowering Mini Subframe
20:01 Empty PS Fluid
21:03 Photographs From Under Mini
22:24 Looking at the New Parts
23:43 R50 Subframe Photographs
24:43 Removing Old Parts
32:49 Credits
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📹Some Of The Equipment Used To Create This Video:
1️⃣ Vegas 18 Pro Video Editing Software for the PC
2️⃣ Focusrite Scarlett 2i4: - - - amzn.to/3u5j4QT
3️⃣ Panasonic GH4 Micro 2/3rds Camera's: - - - amzn.to/3dcwUuz
4️⃣ Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 Video Lens: - - - amzn.to/3qiglkw
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6️⃣ Panasonic 15mm f1.7 Lens: - - - amzn.to/2Zi5OK8
7️⃣ Panasonic DMW-MS2 Shotgun Mic: - - - amzn.to/3phqug3
8️⃣ Rode NT2-A Microphone: - - - amzn.to/3jKbLJw
9️⃣ Pixapro 1500s LED Lighting Panels: - - - amzn.to/2N5RTV5
🔟 Manfrotto 546B Tripods: - - - amzn.to/3rShXlv
Disclaimer:
This video only contains tips and my personal methods that could be helpful when carrying out home car repairs or replacing parts. Coats & Gaiters is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out such repairs or replacements, that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. This video is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools or car parts, in particular, when this use poses the risk of injury. Coats & Gaiters strongly advises taking personal care and adhering to all safety rules when doing any repair or replacement. The use on inferior or low quality vehicle parts does not guarantee the proper level of road safety.
#bmwmini #mini #r50
CK51WXZ
CK51 WXZ
CK51-WXZ - Авто та транспорт
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
I’m such a big fan of you showing when things don’t go perfectly. The color on the diagrams really, really helps too. Thanks for the thorough explanation of a job I hope to do later this year!
Thank you so much for that comment Dylan. I do enjoy the colouring in bit lol very therapeutic.
You've done a brilliant job at documenting everything for this job. Although my Mini is the next series on, the steps you've shown here give me a good idea of what I have to look forward to. Cheers!
Hi and thank you. I am releasing a video tonight on replacing just the subframe bushes using a tool that enables them to be changed without removing the subframe from the car. This might give you a lot more information.
Please don’t give up showing your videos, I’ve done this and know how hard it is and I’ve got a ramp. Great video, love the colour coded diagrams and will help the home mechanic loads👍👍👍
Thank you. I plan to keep making them.
Thank you. This video is excellent. You have convinced me not to replace the bushing. :) (mine is currently fine, just had an extra one and thought I'd pop it in. But certainly no, this is not just a drop in job.) Great work.
Thank you for your comment. Your not meant to postpone the job after seeing this haha. Your meant to watch and say how easy it is and that you can do just after tea on a Sunday evening.
Nice Mark! I can’t believe thatI missed these two videos. Happy New Year to you and your family!
Thank you Mikael and all the best to you and your family for 2021
Great job! Best mini repair videos I've seen on YT!! I'm sure that I am going to have to tackle this job one of these days. Definitely going into my favorites list.
Thank you so kindly for the compliment. I've done a few now on MINI's. Just opened the gearbox last week to see how things looked.
@@CoatsandGaiters Cool! Hopefully I won't need to tackle that one!! Will still make for great video content, though.
@@kevat310 It wasn't broken lol, just had to know what happens inside when we change gear.
Mark I came across your channel a few months ago and am impressed with all the detail and effort you put into your video’s.Last summer I tried to replace my daughters control arms bushes on her mini and failed miserably. The car had to go to a local garage for the repair. Excellent work and keep the videos coming
Thank you for the compliment Michael. They arnt easy to do at all but at least you tried. What part did you get to where you called it a day?
Great video, something to look out for when buying a mini...
Yea very true. Move those wheels back and fourth and see if they are wobbly lol
your commentary is so good. Great video. Thanks
Thank you for that, appreciate the positive feedback.
Very nice video. I'm currently doing this on my 2004 Facelift Cooper S. I'm replacing the bushes with Poly ones though using the original bush holders. Those ARB and lower ball joint bolts are really tight, I had to use a breaker like you and they went with a loud bang, a couple of turns later and I could rattle them out. I'm taking the opportunity to re-finish the subframe and replace all the ball joints and drop links before it all goes back on.
Thank you for the compliment Huw. I'm now taking the engine out just for video's so you should be able to see a lot more soon. Might even crack the engine open once it's out and then will put it all back and hopefully it works again. Part 1 should be up tomorrow.
Great video thanks I'm just about to tackle this. Went through the same frustrating process at the start of your video.
Thank you and good luck, once the jobs done it will be a lot easier next time.
I appreciate your video mate much help to get the job done, top man
Thank you for the thank you and great news it's helped.
I need to do this job! I have been looking for advice on how to tackle it. I am so glad I found your video. Local garage huffed and puffed when o asked them to do it, and said labour will be more than the car is worth (2007 cooper cabriolet). I have found all the parts and have all the tools…..now I have all your knowledge. Will let you know how I get on.
Thanks for the video.
I wish you well. Hopefully my video will guide you well and save your cabriolet.
Absolutely beautiful job of showing this! One of the subtle things that really helped make this video stand out is showing the lift points clearly and showing the jack stand position in the background in the next scene.. yeah I can figure that stuff out, but seeing that savese a lot of time and paranoia!
Thank you for this comment. I try to assume it may be a new owner that knows nothing about the car as it's easy to overlook some obvious things. I recall buying my first Mini (this one) and couldn't work out how to open the bonnet. So to me the obvious is often important when you first start working on a new car.
@@CoatsandGaiters even for some of us that have enough experience to be dangerous, there's always those little details that a lot of people just skip right past on their videos. It saves so much time to do a job better prepared with better visuals ahead of time.
You make an excellent point, though, about people new to things. Have a fantastic weekend and thanks again!
@@underourrock Thank you for that and likewise have a good weekend.
Supremely helpful and well detailed video. And it’s worth noting that your Mini is a very early first gen 1 Mini. They changed the damper and anti roll bar link arms not long after launch
Thank you for the compliment. Any ideas why they changed them !!! hopefully not through accidents happening lol
@@CoatsandGaiters no just improvements to help serviceability and performance. If you ever change or remove your shock absorbers you’ll notice the top bearing plate will be different too. Most used parts on the market are the later type and are not compatible with the rest of the shock absorber
Great video, very methodical and easy to follow. This job awaits me and I'm not looking forward to it.
Thank you for the compliment. Your be ok. It's getting over the shock that's the hardest part. Just see it as lots of individual steps and take your time and try to enjoy. Your know your car a bit better after.
I like the quality and detail of the video👌🏾
Thank you for saying so.
Perfect demonstration!!!
Thank you Walter
Omg. I've got half way thru doing this myself before finding this video. Your experience and attitude is the same as mine - this should be way easier...
Not easy the first time around but once you do it once and come to terms with how unnecessarily awkward the job is it becomes easier lol You can do the bushes in situ don't forget or fit Poly bushes which are easier and apparently better than rubber. Hope it all comes good in the end.
Great video sir. Many thanks for sharing. Liked and subscribed for more mimi madness 😃. If you have more. Very good description and detailed parts. Best one I’ve seen in 8 months of owning my mini. Thanks for sharing again. 👍. Stay safe 😷.
Thank you for the compliment Steve. Plenty of MINI videos yet to be made. Have another in the barn with timing chain slap to be mended.
@@CoatsandGaiters looking forward to it mate 👍
Your videos are incredible
Thank you for that Chris
I feel so much better after watching this. I have a 2012 Countryman and the inner ball joint is in the subframe not on brackets like yours, with that said I cannot get the inner ball joint out and I am now faced with removing the subframe so that I can get it on a press to do it. I felt totally defeated as I have never had a ball joint stuck that could not come out but with a pickle fork, ball joint press, ballpeen hammer, 3lb hammer, dry ice, heat you name it this isn't moving. So after watching this dropping the subframe isn't that bad I guess. One bright spot is the bolts holding the bush in now face downward so you can replace them without dropping the subframe.
Thank you for the comment. Car are a never ending challenge lol, I wish you luck and it does give you the chance to clean everything. I like removing engines as it means you get to clean everything properly. Cleaning makes it worthwhile I find.
Very good video and very informative. One thing - I would’ve put poly bushes on, considering you have to disconnect most of the front end for one bush. At least then you could almost guarantee that you wouldn’t have had to do this massive job again. Can’t wait for part2 😊👍
Thank you so much for that Ian. I found out about the poly bushes after I ordered the standard one lol. Seems like these standard bushes are a weakness for mini’s. Never realised a car front wheel could move around so much.
You probably dont care at all but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Martin Eric Instablaster =)
@Davis Matthias Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Davis Matthias it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
Fantastic vid. Had to do exactly the same job on my Cooper S a few weeks back and couldn’t find one vid showing the reinstallation process apart from yours. The manual keeps on about the “lugs” on the chassis that the subframe had to align with but didn’t say if they were at the front or the rear, watched part 2 of your vid and within minutes I was up and running again. Only thing is I went with polyurethane bushes on my control arms as the OEM ones are a bit naff. Don’t fancy dropping the subframe again unless absolutely necessary. Thumbs up 👍🏽
Really appreciate your comment and compliment. The polyurethane ones do seem to be much better from what I've heard. Keep enjoying your MINI. I think the 'S' is the one to go for. I'd love one one day.
Another great video. Garages must hate you! ;)
Thank you for that lol. I know how expensive it can be to keep a car on the road and UA-cam contributors have helped me so much with my cars over the years it’s nice to put something back for others.
No need to drop the whole subframe and everything attached. I removed the subframe bolts from the rear triangle pieces, the rear bushes and the two in the front up top, pulled the rear part down (with a tyre lever) )and locked it in place with a piece of wood in between the triangle pieces and the body (8-10 cm drop at the rear). Then removed the two bolts (pipe over a spanner from underneath) holding the rear bushing and stabiliser bar to the subframe (can be done with a bit of wiggling) and hammered the old bushing off. Detached the inner and outer ball joint and removed the control arm, pressed the new bushing on in a bench vice and reinstalled everything in reverse. This was on a 2004 R50 and took about 3 hours total to replace the LHD driver's side rear bushing, can be done even quicker.
Thank you for your time to explain all this. This should help lots of people out. Certainly quicker than dropping the subframe by the look of it.
Thank for posting your idear not dropping subframe I've done mine using your method wasn't easy but managed to do it save lot of time effort.
greate and detailed video well done .
Thank you
I bought the bush only and used a 10 ton press to put them in. Then I used spring clamps to get the whole trailing bush onto the arm.
I've kept the old brackets to do just that as well. Though don't plan to do it again any time soon lol
4:40 keep the nut slightly on the bolt. That way you won’t hit the threads.
That's a very wise move, must remember that Shane. Thank you
@@CoatsandGaiters you’re welcome. Great video by the way. Thanks. It’ll be a big help when I have to tackle the nightmare!
Doing a good job there mate
Thank you Mark
Verry nice of you
Thank you Wayne.
Hi very much enjoyed your video , the two “ completely inaccessible “ bolts are accessible . The front ones i came down from the top , behind the engine ( against the firewall) with 3 long extension and socket on a uni joint ( swivel head would be better) , the rear ones i measured carefully and ran a 32mm holesaw through the floor from inside ( after partway pulling back the floor carpet , which gave me access from the inside of the car to the rear bolts . ( early morris minors and minis have removable floor panels yeh ) . Rest of the control arm removal - as per your video but i didnt need to drop the subframe . Have pics if dimensions etc . Siliconed patchpanel over holes , can remove if ever needed . Note : watch for fuel rail and brake lines in close vacinity ! It can be done , just thought id share . Thank you again for your video ( actually watched the with out removing subframe one )
Thank you for the comment Darren, I did wonder why BMW didn't build access holes into the footwells as it would seem logical. I know any hole increases rust possibilities but there are plenty of holes all round the car the same.
I agree , it did seem silly to have to drop the subframe even to change swaybar bushes . Other videos i watched ,the guys saying they love their mini’s but this job made them contemplate selling it . Your video showing the subframe out and using that tool gave me the motivation to crack on and have a go . I did rust seal the hole edges by the way . Although granted we dont have to worry about salted roads here in aus . Next job for me will be supercharger service . So Iwill be checking your channel further for that . Mini front end service mode - eeek ! I have added an extra idler pulley to mine , mounted to the sumppan to increase belt wrap around the harmo as it used to squeal often even with a new belt . Less than 50% belt wrap around the harmo and driving the supercharger just wont cut it i dont believe . Anyway , cool channel 👍
@@darrencutler5434 Thank you for the compliment, though I can't see me doing any videos with the Supercharger model as I cannot afford one. They are like £3,000 here which is way out of my budget unfortunately. All my cars are £500 lol I'd love the S model. A real true classic.
10:47 Time to walk away and have a brew 😂
Haha your right !!! Maybe two cups
Tremendous quality video for this monstrous work to change a bloody bushing set. So, for a decent garage to do it competently may be 1 working day?
Thank you for the comment Paul. Seems a lot of work but I expect a garage can do it pretty quickly once you done a few and know the ropes.
I replace the right arm didn't have to drop the frame I did something similar to what you said.
Well done. A bit of a nightmare first time round but next time it should be a tad easier. I'd have though they could have had two holes in the footwells to allow access to the bolt heads.
11:34 that pointy thing dangling is a temp sensor that should be inside your front grill area, inside the aluminum bumper.
Thank you, your quite right.
@@CoatsandGaiters good video btw, thnx. Love the color coding, really is a nice touch.
@@The1stDukeDroklar Thank you, I try to make them as I would like them to help me do a job. Haynes can be a lot of page flicking to find the info you need.
The little red wire is for the option of the air con pump.
Thank you
Wow, what a fantastic video. What a nightmare to change a few bushes, but you had to take out the subframe to do this because as you say you would never have been able to do it in situ. How did you support the engine or wasn't it necessary? Whilst the subframe was out did you not consider treating the rust on the subframe or better still stripping it, getting it blasted and then repainted? It would mean peace of mind come MOT and make last another 20 years and something I would have done. Also blasting and repainting the wishbone arms? The reason I ask this as a few years ago I had a Fiat Bravo JTD that failed the MOT due to subframe corrosion and it was about the same as condition as yours. I spent ages cleaning and repainting with Hammerite for the car to last only another year as the power steering rack casing cracked causing a massive loss of fluid. Fortunately I was manoeuvring in a fuel station at the time and not out on the road. There was a tremendous bang which must have been the pressure of the fluid where the casing failed. And also the rear brake pipes and and it needed a new exhaust due to corrosion. Then the ABS airbag light for no explanation came on on the dash which is an MOT failure, so I had to scrap the car despite the rest of it being in really good condition and it had only covered 75k miles. Never buy an Italian car, well not a Fiat!
On your mini I think I would have replaced the shock absorbers and top mounts as well so basically making the car feel and handle like new. As I would have been doing all the work rather than a garage then to me it still makes sense financially. Shock absorbers aren't that expensive.
I now have a 2015 Peugeot Partner Tepee which I thought would be immune to corrosion for at least 20 years, but at only 5 years old the sub frame is showing signs of corrosion which is pretty poor. My heart sank when I saw it recently.
I am also having quite a problem with knocking rattling from the front suspension driving over crappy roads especially at about 30mph in 3rd/4th gears. It's only done 25k miles. I've replaced the suspension top mounts, ARB drop links, main top engine mounting but still it's rattling, but not quite so much. The rubber in the top engine mounting was knackered. I did actually get a 5 year warranty with it from Stoneacre, first ever car I bought from a dealer and NEVER again. This was all within the first 3 months and I've been suffering with it for the last year. The warranty isn't worth the keyboard it was typed on. They are nothing more than a bunch of cowboys. Twice I took it back to them and they claimed they couldn't hear anything. Hey had it up on their ramps but claim they couldn't find any problem. So now I wait until the spring and then maybe change the lower engine mounts and possible the wishbone bushes on the subframe. The outer ball joints are fine. For Peugeot after market parts are well catered for and not too expensive, but it still adds up. It really pisses me off as supposedly the vehicle had only done 23k when I got it. I insisted they service it before I bought it but when I came to check the oil and filter shortly after I got it the oil looked so black as if it had never ever been change and also the filter. It was a one owner vehicle serviced only by them. Most of the bolts holding the engine under tray were ,missing only being held on at each corner. The front ones were totally corroded in and I had to cut them off with a grinder which makes me think the vehicle has done way more than 25k miles. Is there any way to have the ECU forensically examined to see if a vehicle has been clocked? All the MOTs and mileage seem to check out. The interior is immaculate which is rare for these types of vehicles.
Sorry for the essay.
Anyway thanks for your great video again. I might having to be doing the same on my Partner Tepee next year. Looking forward to Part 2.
Wow that is an essay lol. Your totally right about the subframe in that I should have sand blasted and repainted etc but I tend to struggle with multi tasking and can only focus on one thing. So for me my priority was just getting that MOT passed within the 10 day window before another full test has to be paid for. Once it's got it's MOT I can then look at things in a calmer manner. Also this is meant to be my daily runner as it were, so to have the car off the road for quite a while and the winter weather wouldn't assist in paint drying. Also I have to try and do things in bite sizes for UA-cam. If I mix to many jobs up it becomes complicated to film and separate. Someone also suggested why didn't I use Poly bushes and again he's totally right but I can always do this at a later date and make it a video in itself. I think the subframe isn't too bad condition wise to be honest. I've had Peugeot 106's and 206's where the whole rear subframe was rusty as hell but still passed an MOT so it was only surface rust.
I prefer to buy non runners or MOT failures as they tend to be more honest and a lot cheaper. I've been had so many times when buying cars, one lady owner, low mileage etc etc and they have been rusty as hell as if they were driven into the sea or something or they didn't check the oil and the engines rattled all the way home. For someone that's always mended my own cars I'm terrible at buying them....always get had if I spend over £2,000, now I stick to always under £1,000 and ideally £500. £500 becomes £1,000 after mending.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks for your reply. I guess if your mini is your daily driver then urgency to get it through an MOT before you have to pay full price again is important so you are unable to be messing around getting bits repainted plus as you say it is winter now and all the problems CV brings. Your mini must have been one of the first ones being 2001? It has lasted a lot longer than the 2001 Bravo I got in 2005 which by 2012 was suffering from corrosion. Yeah I think I have been had big time with my current Peugeot Partner Tepee 2015. I need the space to carry bicycles. My 106 was just too small. The road tax is only £30 though which makes me happy. I did look for a much earlier one for less than £1k but they all had huge mileages and most hadn't been looked after plus they are pretty agricultural and basic in spec but still practical and functional though. Cars are money and time pits. Shall look forward to part 2.
Greetings, is using oil on threads not a bit “controversial” ? :)
ps. Glad the engine could stay in place for that bushing-repair job ;)
Thank you for the comment. I think everything with car repair is controversial to someone. I tend to love copper slip and would put a bit on everything but a lot of mechanics say it shouldn’t be used much at all technically. It’s like bolts. Technically I think almost all bolts should be replaced in theory especially those that stretch but in reality the costs would outweigh a £500 car. I’d have liked for the subframe to have stayed in place as well for that bushing repair. I totally underestimated how big a job it became.
The engine is held in place by the upper engine mounts. There's only one steady mount at the bottom connected to the subframe so thank fully BMW got that bit right otherwise it would have been a beam across the wings as well.
By the way, thank you for not ruining this video with mindless, infantile squealy chipmunk music aka the Curse of UA-cam
I know what you mean, so many videos the person talking has been drowned out when you need to hear what he has to say.
Where can I find that tool that presses the bushing back in
I add all my tool links in the video description. Hope that helps.
Mini mall room on the N/S lol to work
Bmw: " oh you need to change a mini rear brake bulb" .Customer " yes". Bmw " we will need to remove the front bumper, crash bar and subframe".
Not far from reality lol
can you press it out in situ?
Yes in theory
How long does this take ?
You could probably do it in a day or two if fairly competent.
How much time take to drop subframe, change bushes and put it back?
Probably a weekend if your not too confident. Following my video it should be quite quick as you can learn it all and see what’s involved before starting the job.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks for answer. I bought 3 months ago a Mini from 2007, im not experienced in buying car - yesterday changed oil, take a look underneath and subframe is reeeeaaaaly badly coroded. Guy hide it in info. I was stupid to not take a look under and at least do visual inspection.
@@uraken84 it may not be as bad as you think. If you see my later mini series on the 2009 one I showed how corroded it was but it still passed an mot. This Ford I’m on is really bad but I’m still hoping it will pass. I think it has to have holes in to be real fail.
@@CoatsandGaiters it have...
@@uraken84 oh dear. Cars rust so easily nowadays. You can probably get a subframe of eBay cheap.
Bel lavoro puoi fare un video sul 4wd e il look della nissan
Thank you for the comment but The Nissan is actually up for sale now as I’ve a Mini Cooper to work on. Sorry
@@CoatsandGaiters mannaggia
@@CoatsandGaiters nxcsit car is d 4 d toyota rav 4 2005
Se per te va bene
Good crismast
Should just replace the whole lower arm, they can come complete with balljoint etc
Thank you for the comment Chris
all that work for one bushing, LOL
Well designed to make BMW profit !!!
I'm sure you realize by now that the bushings could have been removed from the bracket with the subframe on and replaced with powerflex bushings. No need to remove the subframe for that..
Thank you and yes. I tend to base all my videos directly on the the official manuals so I tend to follow those instructions exactly as its the safest way for UA-cam. I've done some recent videos on changing the bushes using the installation tool which allows the subframe to be left on the car as well. I have no personal experience of the powerflex bushings so cannot make a video in regard to them I'm afraid.
@@CoatsandGaiters haynes says Mini have specialist tool for in situ replaceent
@@julians6690 They do it's a press like what I used in the video
What a ridiculous amount of work just to change a control arm bush, why would you design something like that! I have two control arms to fit to my xtrail for it's mot this month, thankfully they're much easier than a mini!
I know I was a bit surprised as well. I did curse a bit when I found out.
I bought an R53 Cooper S last summer, as a bit of fun... This is now my life..on my driveway...laying on my back...shaking my head...aching knees, aching back...seized nuts, seized bolts, seized screws...im 50 years of age...pathetic.
I'm 50 as well and love this MINI. I forgot how much fun driving can be. They stick like glue and just go. The turbo or supercharger must be epic.
Guys I’m 52 and bought the r53 supercharged Cooper s. It’s going in for power flex poly bushes. ( Hesse why I’m looking at this) you saved yourself £1000. As I’m paying the mini specialist £818 for other bushes , I’ve just messaged them to add the control arm bushes and inner ball joints whilst the sub frame is down. ( sub frame down alone is £400.).
Very informative video and great use of colour and descriptive arrows. The best video I’ve watched since owning my mini in 8 months. Thank you very much sir.
@@stevewalker9888 thank you for the compliment and comment. It took me by surprise how much work was involved in doing those bushes lol. The MINI is so much fun to drive. I’m nearly 50! Are we having a midlife crises lol?
@@CoatsandGaiters I think we must be 🤣🤣. I gave up playing with cars in my 20’s for a plastering trowel, now I can’t plaster due to health and dust etc. So 1st car was a mini tkx450R still remember the reg. it was 21 yr old when I was 18. Now I have a 20 yr old mini. And a 50 year old triumph herald 13/60. The difference between boys and men. The toys are more expensive 🤣🤣🤣. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to share. Many thanks Stay safe buddy.
@@stevewalker9888 So did the plastering dust affect you? One thinks of asbestos dust being dangerous or silicosis. I was always very sensible and went for the old mans Volvos or Saabs. My logic being they were safe bet cars to buy as sensible people owned them like Dr's or retired men lol. My mate had the fun cars with aircraft spoilers on the back which I frowned upon. Now he's looking at sensible Mercedes estates and I'm racing around Welsh roads in a MINI lol feeling I missed out on something in life.