If you liked this video please *give it a thumbs up* . Your support is greatly appreciated. All questions and comments are welcome, so feel free to ask below! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video from my point of view, first time I have done a alarm on a car, Compustar 7900AS on my 2020 Challenger Scat, NO ISSUES, all functions worked, I will say my background is aviation avionics/electrical installs/modifications Your video tutorial was very helpful THANKS
That's great, glad the video helped. 😀. It must be cool working on aviation electronics! If you installed a hood pin switch, it's a good idea to rust proof the contact surface with something, I like Rust Check Gel spray, or dielectric grease.. The other alternative is a tilt switch mounted on the underside of the hood. Everything else still works perfectly, Compustar is one of the best.
Hey bro i never find the trunk relase wire on compustar alarms can u tell me which color because the remote has 4 botton lock unlock trunck relase remote start
Hey, could you give me any pointers on installing Viper 5706V system in my 2014 Toyota Corolla? I just got it and am looking for someone for some pointers or maybe you could give me some tips or even wiring guides.
What's the difference between using the idatalink you're using vs other idatalinks for example iDatalink Blade TB CAN-BUS Immobilizer Bypass Module Interface BladeTB ADSTB. Anyone know?
As far as I can tell, ADS BLADE AL and BLADE TB are nearly the same thing, but for different makes/models. See www.idatalink.com/product/?productCategoryId=5 Click More INFO on either one, and select your car make/model to check which one is compatible. For a 2014 Corolla, only ADS BLADE AL shows up. So the TB looks like it's not compatible with the 2014 Corolla.
Amazing video my friend. I had the same system installed on my truck a year ago, but I just realized they didn’t install a hood pin. Could you tell me how to install myself please ?? Thanks
You dont need a hood pin.. lol.. Like seriously, if someone is gonna steal your shit, they will drive it away before opening your hood. Most important is to make that thing start and have a killswitch on the clutch, brake ped, etc.
The hood pin is in case you bring the car for service and forget to put it in valet mode.. it will prevent remote starting while a mechanic is working on the car. But I have to admit they're made of very cheap metal that rusts quick, and it's likely the contact on mine is already not working right.. I have to clean off the rust. A hidden killswitch is great, very highly recommended... thieves these days can walk in, start the car and drive off.. especially on push button cars, .. literally within seconds. Not sure how they clone the signal, but it happens.
@@CleverFix If im working on any cars i always disconnect the battery regardless if its electronic or not. Make sense, but they dont hardly ever install hood pin anymore for modern compustar. They even have a killswitch to shut off injectors now foe compustar!
Hey Did you add starter kill relay on this compustar remote start instlalation along with toggle switch too? Just curious do i need it and how can i add it? I dont understand how you wire the e-lock relay on here? Tell me in details please? Are you wiring the normally closed relay or the normally open relay? @2014 Corolla
You don't need starter kill, and no I didn't use it because it's so easy to bypass.. Every car is different, not sure what relay you're talking about, but you can find all wiring diagrams for compustar for specific vehicles at www.idatalink.com/ by selecting your car and the product, like the Blade for example. The alarm comes with wiring instructions and diagram for any relays also.
@@imports4lifetoyotalexus98 I didn't install it.. I figure if somebody grabs your key they have the remote to disarm the alarm anyway.. and if they don't have your key, then the car won't start anyway even if it's hotwired because of the immobilizer.. so I see very little benefit to that relay. It was useful back in the 90's when cars didn't have an immobiliser and they could be hotwired.
@@CleverFix Well I have PTS system on new vehicle. What should i do now? I saw you on the video install the relay on this vehicle. Video at 4:23. Let me know ASAP. Thank you.
Is this true if not plz helping!!! I had an installer install mind and said that I'll have to pay extra for the trunk to be open with the remote cause it needs another part plus I'll have to pay extra if I want the rare view mirrors to close by it self when u lock the car
Compustar is pretty famous for it's reliability. Not sure what you're looking for though, I've had cheaper alarms before that worked OK, but heard stories of cheaper alarms having issues. Compustar is one of the most expensive.
Hello! Good video, I did the entire installation but I don't know what I'm missing because it doesn't want to turn it on without the key nearby with the chips. What am I missing or what am I doing wrong? I need help
The Blade has to be programmed for your car, that's #1. Second the blade has to learn the signal from the existing key.. This procedure varies from car to car, so you have to check the instructions on iDataLink for how to program, and there's the LED on the blade that will indicate if it has been programmed correctly. Even pro installers sometimes have trouble teaching the blade the signal.. I had a Subaru at a pro installer and it took him over an hour and probably 15-20 cranks until he finally got it.. wore out my battery. I think in the end, he re-programmed it from scratch, because it just wouldn't work.. it would start and quit.
There are harnesses for certain cars that will allow you to hook it up without having to connect the wires manually.. But generally these alarms are intended for an installer. An installer will have to program the remote start also if the seller can't program it for you.
@@BarryAntoine There is still plenty of work to do even with the harness: images.idatalink.com/vehicle-install-guides/Guides/766/341/23034/EN/RSA-HA9-[CMHCXA0]-(Honda_Accord_2017_23034)-EN_20210923_032930.pdf The first Compustar I got installed was by an installer, and it too him 1 hour to figure out why the remote starter wasn't working.. Programming for every car is different and some are easier.. Corolla is very easy.
You can google your module, Like "compustar cm700 installation manual" for example. If I put a link, it may become obsolete eventually, but Google should always find you one.
Easy one for you: The positive wire for the siren connects to the brown wire (17th pin) of the gray connector for the (+1A) siren output, but what do you do with the negative wire of the siren? [CM900-AS w/ Blade AL install forthcoming] Thank you!
Hello again! Hopefully you're able to see this, as I am in need of a little bit of assistance and thought maybe you had the expertise to help me. I have a 2008 FJ Cruiser; of course I wired everything the way it's intended for an FJ instead of the vehicle in your video (as mine requires a relay for it's two separate ignitions). However, the one thing I haven't been able to figure out -and what I think is the problem- is getting two separte 12V Constants into the remote starter, considering I have only one single battery in my car, and can't seem to figure out how to get two without them cycling back, if that makes sense. I am positive it is the only thing missing from the remote starter to function, as everything else is connected correctly and I've read through multiple articles apart from the manual itself -also, your video was tremendously helpful as it's the most explicative I've found. Any thoughts?
I'm not sure what isn't working with your install, so the best suggestion I can give is to try going to an auto security shop and try to get their help. 12V constant means 12V at all times, even when the car is turned off. Some will have a 10amp fuse, others may be lower/higher.. but they all come straight from the battery's positive (+) terminal. You could take 100 wires from the battery's positive terminal, and fuse them with whatever fuse size is needed, and you'd have 100 12V constants... there is no limit to how many. The best way to verify it's really a +12V constant is to turn off the car completely, take the key out, and measure with a multimeter set to DC voltage testing. If it measures +12V between the wire and ground, then it's a constant 12V .. Perhaps the wire you are connecting is not a +12V constant and that's why it's not working. Sorry, I'm just guessing.. Relays can be tricky too.. so make sure to double check their diagrams and understand how they work correctly. +12V constant is not usually needed for starting the car.. on my install it was to power the alarm at all times, even when the car is off, but it had nothing to do with starting. Hope that helps.
Where you accessed CANH CANL +SIL,at the Obd2, it appears that just just depinned the port, so unless I missed something, doesn't that make the scanning capability or port itself "dead"?
The wires you see are coming from the alarm and they go up in that wire bundle and hook on top of the existing wires. I didn't cut any of the wires, only stripped the insulation, twisted with alarm wire on top of it, then soldered then taped. But I get it how that can be misleading..
How do you know if you need to get a buy a separate low current ignition harness for the compustar? I have the 7900as kit but it came with the thicker gauge wires I think for high current will these damage my cars ignition switch if the car has thinner wires like yours in the video?
Comparing the wire cross reference chart and diagram you used for your Corolla with the Blade AL diagram I will use for my 2015 Jeep Compass it seems I won't need to use the relay at all. Does that make sense to you? Is the idea just that some cars will require the shut-off for parking lights and others will not? [Simply put, my car falls into a type that has less wiring required.] Thank you, TIMES TWO [now]!
You can find the wires required for any car here: www.idatalink.com/support , select your vehicle from the dropdowns, then select ADS-BLADE AL on the final dropdown . That will give you the install schematic. Scroll down to your "Wire type" , depending on the model/year it will specify which "Type" of wiring to use. For my Corolla it shows the autolights relay on that chart. I checked yours and it doesn't show autolights, so looks like your doesn't need it. Hope that helps.
Hey, so I have the same year Corolla . Did you cut the purple auto lights wire in half and wire yellow black 87a to purple wire in black connector and 30 yellow wire to the other end of purple? Also what color wire did you connect the green white parking wire?. Thanks
Yes if you don't use the relay the headlights will stay on forever after the remote start turns off. 87a and 30 to both sides of purple, which basically allows the alarm to "cut" the purple by activating the relay. The parking wire depends on polarity, I think the alarm supports both, and I don't remember which one I used but see this wiring info, www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136659 If you use the +, that's likely the one I used , after you strip the wire a bit, you can use a voltmeter, make SURE it's on volt mode not anything else, and check for +12V when the parking lights are turned on to confirm it's the right wire. Then turn them off and it shouldn't have +12V any more. I like to test the wires I find that way, but the voltmeter must be on volt mode, otherwise it can short a wire. A lot of info is here, mine was page 9/10: images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-TL9/BLADE-AL(DL)-TL9-EN_20220225.pdf make sure to select your correct page for your model.
There are various kits, so you have to look at the kit you're buying. There's the starter only, or starter+alarm.. Also sometimes the remote is separate, sometimes they include a remote. Each remote has a different range, so you can save money by buying a shorter range 1-way remote, or go for the best one with the longest range, and 2-way. The BLADE-AL is also sold separately, and that is needed too.
Follow the "Adjusting the Digital Shock Sensor (DAS or DAS-II) with ANY Compustar/Arctic Start Remote" on this page: help.compustar.com/s/article/Adjusting-Compustar-Arctic-Start-Alarm-Shock-Sensor it's fairly simple.
Hi, I am based in Singapore and have recently bought Altis 2009 (Right Side Driving) How to get the blade AL programmed is it need to program of own or need to ask the dealer what else I should buy with Compustar CS7900, please share its link on cables and bypass modules
You need the cable www.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/45 and register at idatalink.com create an account. The bypass module is Blade-AL if you have a blade slot www.idatalink.com/product/?productCategoryId=5
@2014 Corolla after installing the CS7900 Alarm+Starter whether we are still able to use the Key to start the engine in case of the electronic module unit failure
@@CleverFix after installing the CS7900 Alarm+Starter whether we are still able to use the Key to start the engine in case of the electronic module unit failure
Yes the alarm is made to work on diesel too. images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf Option 2-03 is the diesel timer, that allows setting a time before cranking.
Select your car here www.idatalink.com/ and it will give you the wiring diagrams with all the wires that should be connected. That's how I did my install.
No it's never mandatory, but for modern cars, it will help to eliminate many wire hookups. The blade communicates with the computer to read the status of the doors, trunk, unlock/lock doors, etc. So instead of hooking up those wires, the blade does all of that instead.
@@nickboria I asked the store I bought it from to flash it. Usually the stores selling them are car audio shops, and they have the cable to do it. Also, long ago when I did it, iDataLink allowed personal accounts to log in and all that was needed was the cable. But now they only allow shops to log in and use the flashing program.
Yes it used to be for everyone but then they made it dealer only. You'll have to find someone that can flash it for you. I got it from eBay and the seller flashes it for free.
I wouldn't recommend trying this without any experience in electronics. First try some soldering and play around with some wires, circuits, and learn to use a multimeter, before attempting something this. Remember that if anything is damaged it may cost more to fix than it would've cost to get it installed by a professional. If you're good with electronics, it's not too hard, but *care* must be taken to connect the correct wires! Otherwise something may get damaged on the car.. Finding the right wires, and making a good connection are the hardest .. I mapped out the wires on a paper before I started, then found them one by one and connected them. There are wire diagrams online for every car, that show location and wire color, also the connector type, and how many pins it has.
Installation depends on the year, but also whether it's push to start, or key start. There are wiring manuals here: www.idatalink.com/support The module I used was ADS-BLADE-AL. The Blade AL works with many car models. That's just for the blade though, there are more wires to hook up, and the wiring diagram for the car is needed to confirm wire colors. When I bought mine, I asked the seller to provide the wiring information, and he also programmed it for my car. The blade needs to be programmed first, for the car model it will be used in.
Yes, less wires, and remote start capability. Without Blade it's not possible to override the immobilizer. If you are OK wiring more wires and don't need remote start, Blade is not needed.
@@JevaughnGraham123 Ok, just so you know if the seller doesn't program it for your car, then you likely can't do it unless you have a Idatalink account already. They no longer allow individuals to sign up. I had the seller program mine to my car model.
If my truck doesn’t have automatic lights and I am not wiring up a remote start, just the alarm, Do I need to do anything with the relay?? Can I just cut those wires coming from the brain??
No need for auto-light cut off relay if you don't have automatic lights. You could cut them if you're sure you'll never need them. I like to leave a little bit of wire left, just in case it's ever needed in the future. But, If you want to hook up the "Starter-Kill" then a relay is needed, this is for the purpose of preventing the starter from turning when someone tries to start the car while the alarm is armed. I did not hook this up though, because my car already has an Immobilizer chip in the keyfob. It is one extra layer of protection though, so thinking about it, maybe I should have done it, since I'm hearing of the possibility of bypassing the immobilizer with OBD devices. See Page 3, next to CN15: images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf the diagram how to hook up the relay is there.
Is Compustar a good product? I just bought a 2020 Corolla with the same system. I was told that it was installed by the dealership. I wasn’t given any instructions & I just don’t understand it. The key fob makes too much noise & the car doesn’t start remotely sometimes. I would like to have it removed. Is that possible?
Yes it's the best. Of course you can remove it, but I recommend to just disconnect the power to it, which is quick. If you want it completely removed it can be disconnected also, wire by wire.
I ordered the Compustar 7900AS Alarm and remote start bundle for my VW Jetta 2010. I don't need remote start just the alarm system. How to install it? Do I need to buy anything else for it to work? I went to the shop and they say it is going to cost 600 AUD to install as it will need additional accessories. I don't know why installation is more expensive than the product. PLEASE HELP PLEASEEEE
Install shouldn't cost more than the product. Here it costs around $500 for the system and $150 for install. The installer is probably unhappy you bought it elsewhere, they like you to buy it from them. There's a lot of work that goes into installing it, are you good with wires? You will need the wire colors for your car, a free version is here: www.modifiedlife.com/2010-volkswagen-jetta-auto-alarm-wiring-instructions/ but you may want to double check it, sometimes the free ones are not accurate ..,. Once you have the wires identified and found, then you connect the proper alarm wire to the car's wire. Without remote start it's easier. You will need to connect a few basic wires for the alarm to work, the positive/negative which powers the alarm, door trigger wire , parking lights output, ignition input/output, siren, and door lock/unlock. You may need to program the alarm since door lock/unlock are different on every car, so if you have double pulse unlock and single pulse lock then you have to program that. Just be very sure the wire you found is the correct one when connecting it, otherwise it could cause damage.. they can be tested with a voltmeter sometimes on volt mode, but be careful it's not in Ohm mode, because in Ohm mode it can cause a short circuit. Hardest part is finding the proper connectors/wires that are identified in the wiring diagram. Here's a place you can buy the diagram: shieldtechsecurity.com/vehicle-wiring-diagram-for-car-alarm-and-remote-start-installations-.html there are more. Make sure to connect the wires properly, I use solder, but any other method works, just don't twist the wires and put tape over or something like that, because if they come loose you get problems later, it's common. And no you don't need anything else, maybe a 250ohm resistor for the door unlock/lock depending on your instructions, you can probably find some Jetta forums online and ask some questions, someone must've done this. You may be able to even get the remote start working , you'll need a immobilizer bypass, I think this is the one for you: www.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/708 it's quite a bit more work hooking up the immobilizer and all the start wires.
Triggers the remote start sequence based on a pulsed input on this wire. See manual page 38 for programming. images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf Not sure why anybody would ever need it, since the remote can trigger the start sequence.
@@CleverFix I also cannot figure out how to wire up two-step Driver's door priority unlock using three 5-pin relays. I have the diagram to do it and wired it up properly, but it always burns up the passenger lock actuator somehow.
Works perfectly, it's one of the best you can get really, so I expect it will never have an issue. I've had another Compustar before, it's very reliable.
@@CleverFix what do you think of the horror stories you hear about people having issues with their immobilizer, and the system causing problems years down the road? You think it is due to the system going bad, or bad install?
@@davidfernandez4731 As far as I know, it depends on the type of immobilizer. I've had problems in the past, but it was due to bad technology on the car itself, mainly inside the key switch. All this unit does is "clone" the key so to speak, and transmits that to the ECU. I can't see how it could cause any damage or problems simply by communicating with the ECU. Worst case, the alarm cannot start the car, but the keys should always continue working. There are other type of immobilizers though, and other immobilizer bypass modules from other brands too. that hook up in different ways, not through the ECU. I haven't heard anything about this type of bypass causing issues. If the bypass hooks up directly to wires that have to do with the immobilizer, then yes there are chances things can go wrong. The bypass module can go bad, or the wires can come loose and short circuit.
The Compustar alarms can be installed on any car, old or new. The procedure to install will be very different, because different wires have to connected, but it supports any car. I show how to install it using the Blade to communicate with the car, but that's not possible on older cars.. so you need to hook up power locks, door pins, lights, etc. wire by wire, manually. I recommend checking the manual before buying the alarm, here is one for CM7000 images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf
Check here with your model: www.idatalink.com/support and looks like only ADS HC is compatible (HC=high current). A remote+antenna can be plugged into the ADS HC module according to the manual. The ADS HC has alarm as well.
This is the ads hc (HC2352AC) : www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/424 fill out your car model at the bottom. That will give an install guide. There's a lot to do, and completely different than my install.
My Compustar antenna has a LED as well which I thought could be used as the alarm LED but I couldn't find anything how to program it to do that.. I should ask Compustar.
Hey. I have a question. Had a compustar t13 alarm installed on my Camry. When done and about to leave, tire pressure light was blinking and stood on. Also tire pressure reading are showing “---“. Tried to reset it but didn’t work. Battery disconnected during installation?
@@CleverFix yea. I took it back to the place I got it installed a wk later and they fixed the issue. Just wondered if there was something I could have done before making the trip back. Thank you for responding 😀
You mean run time once it's started? Or actual cranking time? The remote starter will auto sense when the car has started, usually there's no need to set a crank time.
You can program a Compustar Blade using ADS-USB cable, but if they can pre-program it it's much easier for you and you don't have to buy the cable. Also, you only need the Blade programmed, the Maxit module itself does not need any special programming, so if you're installing on an old car that doesn't need a bypass module or doesn't support Blade functions then you don't need a blade at all. Check at www.idatalink.com/ select your vehicle and see if blade comes up.
For the Corolla the DirectWire wiring diagram shows 7.5A and 5A for the "2nd 12V" wire which I think indicates that it's low current.. If you can open the cover under the steering wheel and look at the ignition switch you'll know right away.. if the wires coming out of the ignition switch are thick, then it's high current. If they're thin like in the video, then it's low current.
@@domenickblan6244 See www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132683 and here compustar.idatalink.com/support , select your car and COM-BLADE-AL then click Install Guide.. You'll probably get this PDF. images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-FM2/BLADE-AL(TB)-FM2-EN_20170517.pdf Page 7, Connector B for 07 F150 (Referenced above in the table with Location B) TX:White/LtGreen RX:Gray/Orange from that B connector on your car to the blade connector Orange Black ECM RX and Gray Red ECM TX. That's all the BLADE can do on your car, bypass the PATS and you need 2 keys to do the programming. It cannot do door locks, door pins, etc. all those have to be done manually wire by wire.. like you'll have to actually connect the Door Trigger wire , door Lock wire, parking lights wires, etc. because it can't communicate with the car.
Sorry, I should've mentioned that I didn't install the anti-start relay. It is a very weak security measure in my opinion. Yes you can cut the starter wire and run it through a relay then hook up GWA negative output to 85 and +positive to 86.. This used to be done way back when keys didn't even have a chip in them to offer some security. If somebody broke into your car and tries to hotwire it these days, it won't start anyway, and if they got your keys they likely have the alarm remote too, or they know how to disable the alarm quickly if they cloned your key or hacked the ECU. I trust myself to not turn the key to start when the car is already started (anti-grind), so I didn't think it's worth it to install it. Also, those relays consume power 150mA.. doesn't sound like much but if you don't drive for a few days, it's not good for the battery.
@@CleverFix thaqnk you but my point is they need a starter relay all remote starters need a starter relay . or its not installed properly , double griding can happen and dobule starting and wires can heat up
@@NewsBroadcasting This is a low current harness, it won't heat up for sure.. but yes I could potentially turn the key to start by mistake. I've always installed them without the relay on all the cars I've had and it has never happened to me that I turned the key too far, but sure if you're worried about turning the key too far you should install it. I wonder if toyota has a anti-grind built in but probably not.. I've never tried to start it twice by mistake, but theoretically Toyota could've prevented the start relay being triggered if the car is running already.
@@CleverFix u mis understood me i think your work is really well what did you use for isolate ACC and IGN+ on ? relay? or is this car a newer car that is just different then the older toyotas us people use
@@NewsBroadcasting It's a 2014.. Yeah I'm not sure I understand sorry! Old style there used to be relays that connect the wires together, like +12V would connect to ACC IGN and START through external relays, or relays built into the alarm with heavy thick wires. This alarm has those relays built in, but you can see at 2:30 I tape over their pins because that's not needed for this car. Newer cars have low voltage wires, very thin. The alarm doesn't even need relays to simulate the key being turned. With the low voltage harness at 8:02 , just connect those wires from alarm straight to the ignition wires and it's done. You can see the connector at 8:17 , really thin wires.. for low voltage harness. No thick wires at all on this car at ignition.
Hi there, Great video. I'm going to install CM900AS with BLADE AL immobilizers module on my 2004 Sequoia. With the BLADE AL, you don't need to connect wires for Tach and power lock and unlock from the remote module right? Your information greatly appreciated.
Select your car/model at idatalink: www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/4 and it will show you everything the Blade will give you on your car.
It will also give you a code, next to your car like DL-TL9 which is the firmware code that you have to flash on the Blade. Make sure to flash the blade with the correct firmware for your car.
2004 Sequoia does not support anything other than immobilizer bypass with Blade unfortunately. 2004 is quite old. For Corolla only starting in 2009 can the Blade do all the magic tricks.. Not for 2008 or lower.
You have to be more specific.. what doesn't happen? The light flash? The alarm doesn't arm at all, as if your remote is no longer working? Maybe remote is out of battery or not paired with the car and needs pairing again. Is this on a Compustar remote?
@@CleverFix Ok, So you know when you lock or unlock your car and the lights flash once when you lock it and when you unlock it flashes twice. My car no longer does that? I wanted to know If that’s something you can turn on and off
@@thejoeyest No, even in valet mode the remote should still lock and unlock the doors. It sounds like your remote is not paired. Try this video: ua-cam.com/video/VVnbl_1z6yU/v-deo.html if it doesn't work still, maybe the fuse is burned out, or the alarm has a wiring problem.. also maybe try a new battery in the remote in case it's low on battery.
@@Bubblelover13 Select your car here: compustar.idatalink.com/support and you'll get all the products and their install guides once selected. For your car there are a few VATS Bypass options, I'm not sure which one you have. You need a bypass module and it has to be programmed for your car, like the COM BLADE AL.
The CM7000 is an older unit, I don't think it's being manufactured any more. They are not that different.. the CS-7900 uses a CM900AS brain module, which has a blade slot underneath instead of the top. The biggest difference is that CM900AS needs an optional low current harness for low current applications, and the CM7000 has it built in. Other than that, remotes are same, and they both do alarm+remote start. Let me know if I missed some difference..
It doesn't smell... It's Rustcheck Gel spray, rustcheck.com/product/rust-check-coat-protect/ and I take it to Krown too.. For how old the car is, it doesn't have much rust, but I should've taken it to Krown more often.
The alarm itself is not that expensive, $156 and $58 I have links in the video description where you can get it on Amazon. You need the Blade and the Alarm unit.
@@ModularIsl Woooah! I paid $550CAD for a Pro install on my last car(Everything included). This car I did the install and I paid about $320CAD for it on ebay. $350USD=460CAD. Come to Canada and get it installed, LOL.. but border is closed.
@@ModularIsl Border been closed for a long time between US and Canada for autos that are on non-business trips. "Gone are the days when Canadians and Americans could freely drive across their shared border for a quick shopping trip or to visit family and friends. Now, the Canada-U.S. land border that was once wide open is closed to non-essential travel, affecting the lives of many people on both sides. "
Sure, this video is for people that already know most of what they're doing. It would've helped me find some things that took me some time. If you're good at soldering and wire testing/tracing with a voltmeter it shouldn't be a problem. I've installed a few alarms in the past, just followed instructions carefully, never had an issue. I always solder, don't like the quick connects.
Haha, I sprayed it there myself, and do so every year.. I live in the rust belt, here you want your car to be fully greased, haha! It's either greased or rusted out, you get your choice.
Not sure what you mean by "things" ?? But if you're asking which wires to connect the alarm wires to, then every car has a wiring diagram and they're all different from car to car, so just look up your car's wiring diagram. The shop/seller where you buy your alarm usually will be able to provide you with one for your car.
If you liked this video please *give it a thumbs up* . Your support is greatly appreciated. All questions and comments are welcome, so feel free to ask below! Thanks for watching.
can this fit on toyota celica gt 2001 gt?
@@poke_giee3421 Yes!
@@poke_giee3421 Of course the installation will be completely different..
Pedro from Napoleon dynomite
Lol, someone else said Toby from the Office
Excellent video from my point of view,
first time I have done a alarm on a car,
Compustar 7900AS on my 2020 Challenger Scat, NO ISSUES, all functions worked,
I will say my background is aviation avionics/electrical installs/modifications
Your video tutorial was very helpful
THANKS
That's great, glad the video helped. 😀. It must be cool working on aviation electronics! If you installed a hood pin switch, it's a good idea to rust proof the contact surface with something, I like Rust Check Gel spray, or dielectric grease.. The other alternative is a tilt switch mounted on the underside of the hood. Everything else still works perfectly, Compustar is one of the best.
Hey bro i never find the trunk relase wire on compustar alarms can u tell me which color because the remote has 4 botton lock unlock trunck relase remote start
Thanks!
You're welcome, and thank you so much!! If you have any questions let me know.
Hey, could you give me any pointers on installing Viper 5706V system in my 2014 Toyota Corolla? I just got it and am looking for someone for some pointers or maybe you could give me some tips or even wiring guides.
What's the difference between using the idatalink you're using vs other idatalinks for example iDatalink Blade TB CAN-BUS Immobilizer Bypass Module Interface BladeTB ADSTB. Anyone know?
As far as I can tell, ADS BLADE AL and BLADE TB are nearly the same thing, but for different makes/models. See www.idatalink.com/product/?productCategoryId=5 Click More INFO on either one, and select your car make/model to check which one is compatible. For a 2014 Corolla, only ADS BLADE AL shows up. So the TB looks like it's not compatible with the 2014 Corolla.
Amazing video my friend. I had the same system installed on my truck a year ago, but I just realized they didn’t install a hood pin. Could you tell me how to install myself please ?? Thanks
You dont need a hood pin.. lol.. Like seriously, if someone is gonna steal your shit, they will drive it away before opening your hood. Most important is to make that thing start and have a killswitch on the clutch, brake ped, etc.
The hood pin is in case you bring the car for service and forget to put it in valet mode.. it will prevent remote starting while a mechanic is working on the car. But I have to admit they're made of very cheap metal that rusts quick, and it's likely the contact on mine is already not working right.. I have to clean off the rust.
A hidden killswitch is great, very highly recommended... thieves these days can walk in, start the car and drive off.. especially on push button cars, .. literally within seconds. Not sure how they clone the signal, but it happens.
@@CleverFix If im working on any cars i always disconnect the battery regardless if its electronic or not. Make sense, but they dont hardly ever install hood pin anymore for modern compustar. They even have a killswitch to shut off injectors now foe compustar!
@@robertlawson1184waste of time lol 😅
What are the yellow wires coming from the relay connected to?
Hey Did you add starter kill relay on this compustar remote start instlalation along with toggle switch too? Just curious do i need it and how can i add it? I dont understand how you wire the e-lock relay on here? Tell me in details please? Are you wiring the normally closed relay or the normally open relay? @2014 Corolla
You don't need starter kill, and no I didn't use it because it's so easy to bypass.. Every car is different, not sure what relay you're talking about, but you can find all wiring diagrams for compustar for specific vehicles at www.idatalink.com/ by selecting your car and the product, like the Blade for example. The alarm comes with wiring instructions and diagram for any relays also.
@@CleverFix i am talking about e-lock relay was included with alarm it kit and i purchase with FT Harness Kit. Let me know ASAP.
@@imports4lifetoyotalexus98 I didn't install it.. I figure if somebody grabs your key they have the remote to disarm the alarm anyway.. and if they don't have your key, then the car won't start anyway even if it's hotwired because of the immobilizer.. so I see very little benefit to that relay. It was useful back in the 90's when cars didn't have an immobiliser and they could be hotwired.
@@CleverFix Well I have PTS system on new vehicle. What should i do now? I saw you on the video install the relay on this vehicle. Video at 4:23. Let me know ASAP. Thank you.
@Imports 4 Life Toyota Lexus
Calm down Bro!
#LetMeKnow ASAP
JC, be happy this guy responds when he can🧐 Damn millennials😤
would it still work if i deleted the immobilzer from my car?
Is this true if not plz helping!!!
I had an installer install mind and said that I'll have to pay extra for the trunk to be open with the remote cause it needs another part plus I'll have to pay extra if I want the rare view mirrors to close by it self when u lock the car
You made a good video but is this alarm system is a good product to have
Compustar is pretty famous for it's reliability. Not sure what you're looking for though, I've had cheaper alarms before that worked OK, but heard stories of cheaper alarms having issues. Compustar is one of the most expensive.
I have a 2019 Corolla hybrid euro. Does this system work on hybrids or no? Most likely it will but I'm still unsure. Thanks
Would this work on a 1998 toyota camry
Hello! Good video, I did the entire installation but I don't know what I'm missing because it doesn't want to turn it on without the key nearby with the chips. What am I missing or what am I doing wrong? I need help
The Blade has to be programmed for your car, that's #1. Second the blade has to learn the signal from the existing key.. This procedure varies from car to car, so you have to check the instructions on iDataLink for how to program, and there's the LED on the blade that will indicate if it has been programmed correctly. Even pro installers sometimes have trouble teaching the blade the signal.. I had a Subaru at a pro installer and it took him over an hour and probably 15-20 cranks until he finally got it.. wore out my battery. I think in the end, he re-programmed it from scratch, because it just wouldn't work.. it would start and quit.
Is the Compustar 7900AS considered a plug and play remote start?
There are harnesses for certain cars that will allow you to hook it up without having to connect the wires manually.. But generally these alarms are intended for an installer. An installer will have to program the remote start also if the seller can't program it for you.
@@CleverFix Thank you
@@BarryAntoine More info: www.compustar.com/blog/remote-start-t-harnesses-explained/
@@BarryAntoine There is still plenty of work to do even with the harness: images.idatalink.com/vehicle-install-guides/Guides/766/341/23034/EN/RSA-HA9-[CMHCXA0]-(Honda_Accord_2017_23034)-EN_20210923_032930.pdf The first Compustar I got installed was by an installer, and it too him 1 hour to figure out why the remote starter wasn't working.. Programming for every car is different and some are easier.. Corolla is very easy.
How about a link to that paper you have for the program sheet
You can google your module, Like "compustar cm700 installation manual" for example. If I put a link, it may become obsolete eventually, but Google should always find you one.
Easy one for you: The positive wire for the siren connects to the brown wire (17th pin) of the gray connector for the (+1A) siren output, but what do you do with the negative wire of the siren? [CM900-AS w/ Blade AL install forthcoming] Thank you!
I hooked up the negative wire from the siren to the same ground as the alarm (at 8:10 in the video).
Hello, do you know how to connect the CM7200 to the ford focus mk2 and mk3. Please help. greetings
Hello again!
Hopefully you're able to see this, as I am in need of a little bit of assistance and thought maybe you had the expertise to help me.
I have a 2008 FJ Cruiser; of course I wired everything the way it's intended for an FJ instead of the vehicle in your video (as mine requires a relay for it's two separate ignitions). However, the one thing I haven't been able to figure out -and what I think is the problem- is getting two separte 12V Constants into the remote starter, considering I have only one single battery in my car, and can't seem to figure out how to get two without them cycling back, if that makes sense.
I am positive it is the only thing missing from the remote starter to function, as everything else is connected correctly and I've read through multiple articles apart from the manual itself -also, your video was tremendously helpful as it's the most explicative I've found.
Any thoughts?
I'm not sure what isn't working with your install, so the best suggestion I can give is to try going to an auto security shop and try to get their help. 12V constant means 12V at all times, even when the car is turned off. Some will have a 10amp fuse, others may be lower/higher.. but they all come straight from the battery's positive (+) terminal. You could take 100 wires from the battery's positive terminal, and fuse them with whatever fuse size is needed, and you'd have 100 12V constants... there is no limit to how many.
The best way to verify it's really a +12V constant is to turn off the car completely, take the key out, and measure with a multimeter set to DC voltage testing. If it measures +12V between the wire and ground, then it's a constant 12V .. Perhaps the wire you are connecting is not a +12V constant and that's why it's not working. Sorry, I'm just guessing.. Relays can be tricky too.. so make sure to double check their diagrams and understand how they work correctly. +12V constant is not usually needed for starting the car.. on my install it was to power the alarm at all times, even when the car is off, but it had nothing to do with starting. Hope that helps.
Doesn't it make sense to merge the factory horn and siren for a car alarm? This way, you'll generate a lot of noise?
The siren wire is not designed to handle the load of both the siren and the horn at the same time, so it should not be done.
Where you accessed CANH CANL +SIL,at the Obd2, it appears that just just depinned the port, so unless I missed something, doesn't that make the scanning capability or port itself "dead"?
The wires you see are coming from the alarm and they go up in that wire bundle and hook on top of the existing wires. I didn't cut any of the wires, only stripped the insulation, twisted with alarm wire on top of it, then soldered then taped. But I get it how that can be misleading..
How do you know if you need to get a buy a separate low current ignition harness for the compustar? I have the 7900as kit but it came with the thicker gauge wires I think for high current will these damage my cars ignition switch if the car has thinner wires like yours in the video?
It should come with both, I didn't have to buy anything separate. Look on the installation diagram it came with.
Looks for a "Low Current" connector on the diagram, close to the high current one.
Comparing the wire cross reference chart and diagram you used for your Corolla with the Blade AL diagram I will use for my 2015 Jeep Compass it seems I won't need to use the relay at all. Does that make sense to you? Is the idea just that some cars will require the shut-off for parking lights and others will not? [Simply put, my car falls into a type that has less wiring required.] Thank you, TIMES TWO [now]!
You can find the wires required for any car here: www.idatalink.com/support , select your vehicle from the dropdowns, then select ADS-BLADE AL on the final dropdown . That will give you the install schematic. Scroll down to your "Wire type" , depending on the model/year it will specify which "Type" of wiring to use. For my Corolla it shows the autolights relay on that chart. I checked yours and it doesn't show autolights, so looks like your doesn't need it. Hope that helps.
@@CleverFix That is the way I read it too. I appreciate someone with your skill confirming. Most sincerely, CT.
@@CT-eb6nt No Problem. Just follow your vehicle's diagram, each one will be slightly different. You got CanH CanL and MUX for the 2015 Compass.
Hey, so I have the same year Corolla . Did you cut the purple auto lights wire in half and wire yellow black 87a to purple wire in black connector and 30 yellow wire to the other end of purple?
Also what color wire did you connect the green white parking wire?. Thanks
Yes if you don't use the relay the headlights will stay on forever after the remote start turns off. 87a and 30 to both sides of purple, which basically allows the alarm to "cut" the purple by activating the relay. The parking wire depends on polarity, I think the alarm supports both, and I don't remember which one I used but see this wiring info, www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136659 If you use the +, that's likely the one I used , after you strip the wire a bit, you can use a voltmeter, make SURE it's on volt mode not anything else, and check for +12V when the parking lights are turned on to confirm it's the right wire. Then turn them off and it shouldn't have +12V any more. I like to test the wires I find that way, but the voltmeter must be on volt mode, otherwise it can short a wire. A lot of info is here, mine was page 9/10: images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-TL9/BLADE-AL(DL)-TL9-EN_20220225.pdf make sure to select your correct page for your model.
The 3E connector that has the (+) parking light wire is shown on page 10 of the PDF by the way.
@@CleverFix Thanks so much. Really appreciate it sir
What comes with this remote starter when you buy from Amazon?
There are various kits, so you have to look at the kit you're buying. There's the starter only, or starter+alarm.. Also sometimes the remote is separate, sometimes they include a remote. Each remote has a different range, so you can save money by buying a shorter range 1-way remote, or go for the best one with the longest range, and 2-way. The BLADE-AL is also sold separately, and that is needed too.
Will give a try on my 2014 RAV4 MT
Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for watching!
How do you adjust the shock sensitivity?
Follow the "Adjusting the Digital Shock Sensor (DAS or DAS-II) with ANY Compustar/Arctic Start Remote" on this page: help.compustar.com/s/article/Adjusting-Compustar-Arctic-Start-Alarm-Shock-Sensor it's fairly simple.
Hi, I am based in Singapore and have recently bought Altis 2009 (Right Side Driving)
How to get the blade AL programmed is it need to program of own or need to ask the dealer what else I should buy with Compustar CS7900, please share its link on cables and bypass modules
You need the cable www.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/45 and register at idatalink.com create an account. The bypass module is Blade-AL if you have a blade slot www.idatalink.com/product/?productCategoryId=5
@@CleverFix Thanks a lot for the info sharing, help and links
@2014 Corolla after installing the CS7900 Alarm+Starter whether we are still able to use the Key to start the engine in case of the electronic module unit failure
@@CleverFix after installing the CS7900 Alarm+Starter whether we are still able to use the Key to start the engine in case of the electronic module unit failure
@@CleverFix Hi I have received all the items but the purchased ADSUSB cable was not deducting the module to flash , please advise how to remedy
Do it works for a Diesel motor? i mean the glow plugs has to get hot first and then star the engine, do you know if its works properly in it?
Yes the alarm is made to work on diesel too. images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf Option 2-03 is the diesel timer, that allows setting a time before cranking.
@@CleverFix Hey man, thanks you soooooooo much.
Does PTS on blade bypass harness have to be connected for remote start I heard yes and no from some people I can’t access the wires in my car
Select your car here www.idatalink.com/ and it will give you the wiring diagrams with all the wires that should be connected. That's how I did my install.
Hi how are you I got question for u. It’s the cm7000 some setup like that 7900AS?
AS means Alarm System, without AS you don't install the siren, you just have remote start.
I want to know if the Blade is mandatory to install? My kit doesn't bring the Blade ? Pls let me know . I have a Rav 4 20222
No it's never mandatory, but for modern cars, it will help to eliminate many wire hookups. The blade communicates with the computer to read the status of the doors, trunk, unlock/lock doors, etc. So instead of hooking up those wires, the blade does all of that instead.
Oh, and also the Blade does the remote start. Without Blade, remote start is not really possible, unless a separate bypass module is installed.
How were you able to program/flash the Blade attachment? Do you have to pay for a software license to be able to flash it? Thanks! @@CleverFix
@@nickboria I asked the store I bought it from to flash it. Usually the stores selling them are car audio shops, and they have the cable to do it. Also, long ago when I did it, iDataLink allowed personal accounts to log in and all that was needed was the cable. But now they only allow shops to log in and use the flashing program.
I’m trying to figure out how to change the crank start time please help.!!!!!!!!!
Where did you check for your cars wiring diagram?
The seller of the alarm will usually provide it for free, that's how I got mine. You can also try here: www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html
If I buy a Blade AL, how do I flash it? It looks like only dealers have access to get this information.
Yes it used to be for everyone but then they made it dealer only. You'll have to find someone that can flash it for you. I got it from eBay and the seller flashes it for free.
I wanna try this my self ?? How hard is it
I wouldn't recommend trying this without any experience in electronics. First try some soldering and play around with some wires, circuits, and learn to use a multimeter, before attempting something this. Remember that if anything is damaged it may cost more to fix than it would've cost to get it installed by a professional.
If you're good with electronics, it's not too hard, but *care* must be taken to connect the correct wires! Otherwise something may get damaged on the car.. Finding the right wires, and making a good connection are the hardest .. I mapped out the wires on a paper before I started, then found them one by one and connected them. There are wire diagrams online for every car, that show location and wire color, also the connector type, and how many pins it has.
If you was to install the new drone module x1max, where it’s going to be connected in this main brain. I have the 7900as .
CN6 or CN7 see : geeksquad.compustar.com/live/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/CM7_Full_Install_3.51.pdf
Does anyone know if the 2015 Toyota Corolla, which is the car I want to do the installation for, has the same instructions as this video? Thanks.
Installation depends on the year, but also whether it's push to start, or key start. There are wiring manuals here: www.idatalink.com/support
The module I used was ADS-BLADE-AL. The Blade AL works with many car models.
That's just for the blade though, there are more wires to hook up, and the wiring diagram for the car is needed to confirm wire colors. When I bought mine, I asked the seller to provide the wiring information, and he also programmed it for my car. The blade needs to be programmed first, for the car model it will be used in.
So with the programed Blade Al it just makes it so you have to run less wires?
Basically an easier setup?
Yes, less wires, and remote start capability. Without Blade it's not possible to override the immobilizer. If you are OK wiring more wires and don't need remote start, Blade is not needed.
@@CleverFix Thank you so much I will get it and program it for my Subaru, thank you for your video and help, I truly appreciate you #Subscribed
@@JevaughnGraham123 Ok, just so you know if the seller doesn't program it for your car, then you likely can't do it unless you have a Idatalink account already. They no longer allow individuals to sign up. I had the seller program mine to my car model.
@@CleverFix I may have to do just that, thank you so much
If my truck doesn’t have automatic lights and I am not wiring up a remote start, just the alarm, Do I need to do anything with the relay?? Can I just cut those wires coming from the brain??
No need for auto-light cut off relay if you don't have automatic lights. You could cut them if you're sure you'll never need them. I like to leave a little bit of wire left, just in case it's ever needed in the future.
But, If you want to hook up the "Starter-Kill" then a relay is needed, this is for the purpose of preventing the starter from turning when someone tries to start the car while the alarm is armed. I did not hook this up though, because my car already has an Immobilizer chip in the keyfob. It is one extra layer of protection though, so thinking about it, maybe I should have done it, since I'm hearing of the possibility of bypassing the immobilizer with OBD devices.
See Page 3, next to CN15: images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf the diagram how to hook up the relay is there.
@@CleverFix Thank you man I appreciate the response!
Is Compustar a good product? I just bought a 2020 Corolla with the same system. I was told that it was installed by the dealership. I wasn’t given any instructions & I just don’t understand it. The key fob makes too much noise & the car doesn’t start remotely sometimes. I would like to have it removed. Is that possible?
Yes it's the best. Of course you can remove it, but I recommend to just disconnect the power to it, which is quick. If you want it completely removed it can be disconnected also, wire by wire.
Does the 2 way notify you if the alarm goes off??
Yes the remote beeps and vibrates. You can also make it a "silent alarm" so the car doesn't do anything, only the remote.
@@CleverFix Thanks for info 👍
I ordered the Compustar 7900AS Alarm and remote start bundle for my VW Jetta 2010. I don't need remote start just the alarm system. How to install it? Do I need to buy anything else for it to work? I went to the shop and they say it is going to cost 600 AUD to install as it will need additional accessories. I don't know why installation is more expensive than the product. PLEASE HELP PLEASEEEE
Install shouldn't cost more than the product. Here it costs around $500 for the system and $150 for install. The installer is probably unhappy you bought it elsewhere, they like you to buy it from them. There's a lot of work that goes into installing it, are you good with wires? You will need the wire colors for your car, a free version is here: www.modifiedlife.com/2010-volkswagen-jetta-auto-alarm-wiring-instructions/ but you may want to double check it, sometimes the free ones are not accurate ..,. Once you have the wires identified and found, then you connect the proper alarm wire to the car's wire. Without remote start it's easier. You will need to connect a few basic wires for the alarm to work, the positive/negative which powers the alarm, door trigger wire , parking lights output, ignition input/output, siren, and door lock/unlock. You may need to program the alarm since door lock/unlock are different on every car, so if you have double pulse unlock and single pulse lock then you have to program that. Just be very sure the wire you found is the correct one when connecting it, otherwise it could cause damage.. they can be tested with a voltmeter sometimes on volt mode, but be careful it's not in Ohm mode, because in Ohm mode it can cause a short circuit. Hardest part is finding the proper connectors/wires that are identified in the wiring diagram.
Here's a place you can buy the diagram: shieldtechsecurity.com/vehicle-wiring-diagram-for-car-alarm-and-remote-start-installations-.html
there are more. Make sure to connect the wires properly, I use solder, but any other method works, just don't twist the wires and put tape over or something like that, because if they come loose you get problems later, it's common.
And no you don't need anything else, maybe a 250ohm resistor for the door unlock/lock depending on your instructions, you can probably find some Jetta forums online and ask some questions, someone must've done this. You may be able to even get the remote start working , you'll need a immobilizer bypass, I think this is the one for you: www.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/708 it's quite a bit more work hooking up the immobilizer and all the start wires.
I paid 400 to install mines lol maybe your car more complicated to install
Your voice sounds funny 😂😂😂
I got a better microphone recently.. old one was cheap.
What is the "trigger start in" wire for?
Triggers the remote start sequence based on a pulsed input on this wire. See manual page 38 for programming. images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf Not sure why anybody would ever need it, since the remote can trigger the start sequence.
@@CleverFix Thanks for the reply! 😁👌
@@CleverFix I also cannot figure out how to wire up two-step Driver's door priority unlock using three 5-pin relays. I have the diagram to do it and wired it up properly, but it always burns up the passenger lock actuator somehow.
How is the system working out so far?
Works perfectly, it's one of the best you can get really, so I expect it will never have an issue. I've had another Compustar before, it's very reliable.
@@CleverFix what do you think of the horror stories you hear about people having issues with their immobilizer, and the system causing problems years down the road? You think it is due to the system going bad, or bad install?
@@davidfernandez4731 As far as I know, it depends on the type of immobilizer. I've had problems in the past, but it was due to bad technology on the car itself, mainly inside the key switch. All this unit does is "clone" the key so to speak, and transmits that to the ECU. I can't see how it could cause any damage or problems simply by communicating with the ECU. Worst case, the alarm cannot start the car, but the keys should always continue working. There are other type of immobilizers though, and other immobilizer bypass modules from other brands too. that hook up in different ways, not through the ECU. I haven't heard anything about this type of bypass causing issues. If the bypass hooks up directly to wires that have to do with the immobilizer, then yes there are chances things can go wrong. The bypass module can go bad, or the wires can come loose and short circuit.
helpful, thanks
Hello sir do you know if this will work with a 1996 mustang ? It has power locks and windows if that’s helps
The Compustar alarms can be installed on any car, old or new. The procedure to install will be very different, because different wires have to connected, but it supports any car.
I show how to install it using the Blade to communicate with the car, but that's not possible on older cars.. so you need to hook up power locks, door pins, lights, etc. wire by wire, manually. I recommend checking the manual before buying the alarm, here is one for CM7000
images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/COMPUSTAR/CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf
Well... another question is if exist the firmware for an Isuzu Trooper 99 3.1 TD cause i just look for it in iDataLink and got no one match.
Check here with your model: www.idatalink.com/support and looks like only ADS HC is compatible (HC=high current). A remote+antenna can be plugged into the ADS HC module according to the manual. The ADS HC has alarm as well.
This is the ads hc (HC2352AC) : www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/424 fill out your car model at the bottom. That will give an install guide. There's a lot to do, and completely different than my install.
Who programs those chip o target o whatever is
Either the seller, or you have to go a car audio/security shop.
But I like about viper is that you don't have to drill a hole in your car and put the LED in. It's built into the antenna
My Compustar antenna has a LED as well which I thought could be used as the alarm LED but I couldn't find anything how to program it to do that.. I should ask Compustar.
Hey. I have a question. Had a compustar t13 alarm installed on my Camry. When done and about to leave, tire pressure light was blinking and stood on. Also tire pressure reading are showing “---“. Tried to reset it but didn’t work. Battery disconnected during installation?
Sounds like they disconnected the battery.. did you get it figured out?
@@CleverFix yea. I took it back to the place I got it installed a wk later and they fixed the issue. Just wondered if there was something I could have done before making the trip back. Thank you for responding 😀
How to select optional setting 4 on crank start time?
You mean run time once it's started? Or actual cranking time? The remote starter will auto sense when the car has started, usually there's no need to set a crank time.
I wanna buy a t13 with a maxit module, do have to dealer program it, or can I program it myself
? thanks most respectfully
You can program a Compustar Blade using ADS-USB cable, but if they can pre-program it it's much easier for you and you don't have to buy the cable. Also, you only need the Blade programmed, the Maxit module itself does not need any special programming, so if you're installing on an old car that doesn't need a bypass module or doesn't support Blade functions then you don't need a blade at all. Check at www.idatalink.com/ select your vehicle and see if blade comes up.
@@CleverFix thanks men appreciate it for fast response
WHERE DOES THE "ALARM LED" CONNECT TO??
See: ibb.co/1vVfD2M On the right side there's a white 2-pin connector CN12
What port do I need to put the drone mobile add on harnnes into
Likely RS232, I don't have one, but see here: uploads.gocdn.us/245/2363/DRONE%20Manual.pdf or check your actual model # manual.
How do you know if u need low current or high current harness?
For the Corolla the DirectWire wiring diagram shows 7.5A and 5A for the "2nd 12V" wire which I think indicates that it's low current.. If you can open the cover under the steering wheel and look at the ignition switch you'll know right away.. if the wires coming out of the ignition switch are thick, then it's high current. If they're thin like in the video, then it's low current.
@@CleverFix ok makes Since thanks a lot
@@CleverFix so would u say I would need to use the same wires as u did from the grey plug and the blade plug for a 2007 f150 ?
@@domenickblan6244 See www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132683 and here compustar.idatalink.com/support , select your car and COM-BLADE-AL then click Install Guide.. You'll probably get this PDF. images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-FM2/BLADE-AL(TB)-FM2-EN_20170517.pdf Page 7, Connector B for 07 F150 (Referenced above in the table with Location B) TX:White/LtGreen RX:Gray/Orange from that B connector on your car to the blade connector Orange Black ECM RX and Gray Red ECM TX. That's all the BLADE can do on your car, bypass the PATS and you need 2 keys to do the programming. It cannot do door locks, door pins, etc. all those have to be done manually wire by wire.. like you'll have to actually connect the Door Trigger wire , door Lock wire, parking lights wires, etc. because it can't communicate with the car.
@@CleverFix what wires do I need for the door locks to work
8:26 the compustar manual says the starter wire must be cut not spliced and a relay must be used am i missing that part?
Sorry, I should've mentioned that I didn't install the anti-start relay. It is a very weak security measure in my opinion.
Yes you can cut the starter wire and run it through a relay then hook up GWA negative output to 85 and +positive to 86.. This used to be done way back when keys didn't even have a chip in them to offer some security. If somebody broke into your car and tries to hotwire it these days, it won't start anyway, and if they got your keys they likely have the alarm remote too, or they know how to disable the alarm quickly if they cloned your key or hacked the ECU. I trust myself to not turn the key to start when the car is already started (anti-grind), so I didn't think it's worth it to install it.
Also, those relays consume power 150mA.. doesn't sound like much but if you don't drive for a few days, it's not good for the battery.
@@CleverFix thaqnk you but my point is they need a starter relay all remote starters need a starter relay . or its not installed properly , double griding can happen and dobule starting and wires can heat up
@@NewsBroadcasting This is a low current harness, it won't heat up for sure.. but yes I could potentially turn the key to start by mistake. I've always installed them without the relay on all the cars I've had and it has never happened to me that I turned the key too far, but sure if you're worried about turning the key too far you should install it. I wonder if toyota has a anti-grind built in but probably not.. I've never tried to start it twice by mistake, but theoretically Toyota could've prevented the start relay being triggered if the car is running already.
@@CleverFix u mis understood me i think your work is really well what did you use for isolate ACC and IGN+ on ? relay? or is this car a newer car that is just different then the older toyotas us people use
@@NewsBroadcasting It's a 2014.. Yeah I'm not sure I understand sorry! Old style there used to be relays that connect the wires together, like +12V would connect to ACC IGN and START through external relays, or relays built into the alarm with heavy thick wires. This alarm has those relays built in, but you can see at 2:30 I tape over their pins because that's not needed for this car. Newer cars have low voltage wires, very thin. The alarm doesn't even need relays to simulate the key being turned. With the low voltage harness at 8:02 , just connect those wires from alarm straight to the ignition wires and it's done. You can see the connector at 8:17 , really thin wires.. for low voltage harness. No thick wires at all on this car at ignition.
Good stuff
can run on nissan almera 2009 ?????
Yes it works on most cars, but the wire connections and programming is different for every car.
My t9 remote alway on hold
Hi there, Great video. I'm going to install CM900AS with BLADE AL immobilizers module on my 2004 Sequoia. With the BLADE AL, you don't need to connect wires for Tach and power lock and unlock from the remote module right? Your information greatly appreciated.
Select your car/model at idatalink: www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/4 and it will show you everything the Blade will give you on your car.
It will also give you a code, next to your car like DL-TL9 which is the firmware code that you have to flash on the Blade. Make sure to flash the blade with the correct firmware for your car.
2004 Sequoia does not support anything other than immobilizer bypass with Blade unfortunately. 2004 is quite old. For Corolla only starting in 2009 can the Blade do all the magic tricks.. Not for 2008 or lower.
@@CleverFix Thank you for all your information greatly appreciated.
Guys I have a question so you know when your open your car and the lights flash? My car no longer does that how do I set that up
You have to be more specific.. what doesn't happen? The light flash? The alarm doesn't arm at all, as if your remote is no longer working? Maybe remote is out of battery or not paired with the car and needs pairing again. Is this on a Compustar remote?
@@CleverFix Ok, So you know when you lock or unlock your car and the lights flash once when you lock it and when you unlock it flashes twice. My car no longer does that? I wanted to know If that’s something you can turn on and off
@@CleverFix Yes it’s the same alarm as the one shown in the video
@@thejoeyest No, even in valet mode the remote should still lock and unlock the doors. It sounds like your remote is not paired. Try this video: ua-cam.com/video/VVnbl_1z6yU/v-deo.html if it doesn't work still, maybe the fuse is burned out, or the alarm has a wiring problem.. also maybe try a new battery in the remote in case it's low on battery.
@@CleverFix Ok thanks
RDA PIN ''''?????
How do you know if this will work for your car? I have a 2019 Nissan Sentra S. It is regular key start not push button.
EXCELLENT tutorial btw. Love the blue clickables for each section. If I get this the tutorial will be priceless.
Thanks!
select your car here www.idatalink.com/ and it will show you available bypass modules. It should pretty much work on any car.
How do you program the remote start function?
What do you want to program? Here is the manual with programming instructions: www.staub.ca/pdf/sku/cm7000_full_install_2-12_en.pdf
@@CleverFix I installed this alarm to a 98 Silverado but I can’t get the remote start function to work...everything works except that
@@Bubblelover13 Select your car here: compustar.idatalink.com/support and you'll get all the products and their install guides once selected. For your car there are a few VATS Bypass options, I'm not sure which one you have. You need a bypass module and it has to be programmed for your car, like the COM BLADE AL.
@@CleverFix okay I thought since I didn’t have a chip in my key or a passlock system i didn’t need a bypass module. Thanks for the info
All I installed what what came in the 7900as all in one system box.
I find it weird he's installing a CM-7000 but quotes a CS-7900 which are totally different systems to how each works
The CM7000 is an older unit, I don't think it's being manufactured any more. They are not that different.. the CS-7900 uses a CM900AS brain module, which has a blade slot underneath instead of the top. The biggest difference is that CM900AS needs an optional low current harness for low current applications, and the CM7000 has it built in. Other than that, remotes are same, and they both do alarm+remote start. Let me know if I missed some difference..
5:30 i can smell the oil vapors!!
It doesn't smell... It's Rustcheck Gel spray,
rustcheck.com/product/rust-check-coat-protect/
and I take it to Krown too.. For how old the car is, it doesn't have much rust, but I should've taken it to Krown more often.
Hood pin should work through data.
If your car has one already yes.
What pin is comfort for windows?
Power windows up/down you mean?
@@CleverFix up after lock the door.
30 sec +12 v to close windows after the lock from alarm .
"Bomb Planted" uh oh why did I hear that 😅
How much would this cost?
The alarm itself is not that expensive, $156 and $58 I have links in the video description where you can get it on Amazon. You need the Blade and the Alarm unit.
$350 I just got quoted from car audio express in San Jose. Install only
@@ModularIsl Woooah! I paid $550CAD for a Pro install on my last car(Everything included). This car I did the install and I paid about $320CAD for it on ebay. $350USD=460CAD. Come to Canada and get it installed, LOL.. but border is closed.
2014 Corolla border closed?
@@ModularIsl Border been closed for a long time between US and Canada for autos that are on non-business trips. "Gone are the days when Canadians and Americans could freely drive across their shared border for a quick shopping trip or to visit family and friends.
Now, the Canada-U.S. land border that was once wide open is closed to non-essential travel, affecting the lives of many people on both sides. "
Me, I don’t take any chances. I get a pro to do these things for me. It’s easy to fuck it up.
Sure, this video is for people that already know most of what they're doing. It would've helped me find some things that took me some time. If you're good at soldering and wire testing/tracing with a voltmeter it shouldn't be a problem. I've installed a few alarms in the past, just followed instructions carefully, never had an issue. I always solder, don't like the quick connects.
Damn bro could u have anymore oil under ur hood time to degrease that thing and clean it!!!!!
Haha, I sprayed it there myself, and do so every year.. I live in the rust belt, here you want your car to be fully greased, haha! It's either greased or rusted out, you get your choice.
Was your car in a flood? Your engine bay is filthy
It's rust proof oil.
You edited this video beginning to end not well useful
Awful demonstration. How are we suppose to know where you’re putting things.
Not sure what you mean by "things" ?? But if you're asking which wires to connect the alarm wires to, then every car has a wiring diagram and they're all different from car to car, so just look up your car's wiring diagram. The shop/seller where you buy your alarm usually will be able to provide you with one for your car.
You can also find some free ones here: www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html But there are better ones available.