I’ve been Woodturning for 40 years, and that’s as nice a job of turning a handle as anybody can do. I don’t believe there’s any room for criticism. Thank you for sharing your artistry.
Starting at 27:12, if you stare at the tip of the tang, you can see it flex back and forth as the torch moves up and down - great demonstration of physics. Sharpening - I've never found a factory edge that I was really happy with, if you need a good edge, sharpen it yourself. Sharpening is an art well worth learning. Thanks for another great lesson, John.
Love your work. On the draw knife I made I rounded off the end of the tangs and cut a thread on them so they could be secured with dome nuts. They aint moving!
It's best to set them beyond the handle and rivet them over a metal cap or use a nut like you did. All professionally made draw knives use that method for safety. If a handle comes off when in use, it could cut you badly.
Thank you for the detailed information. I was just looking for ways to affix new handles to my old Worth drawknife but I watched the whole video and will go back to the first two just out of curiosity.
Black Bear Forge Sure it does. Your the hardest guy to beat. That Drawknife has some great lines, one day I hope to develop the “Eye” for seeing the artistic part of Blacksmithing. You know you got some skill in the wood game, your turning your own handles, I mean that very respectfully. That’s not exactly beginners new guy stuff and you get watch yourself while you’re doing the work. Watching myself working like that I’d be “Oh no, look at that idiot about to cut his......crap”
I was trying taters while listening to your Hollywood special! You got a smooth tone, the words to validate. I appreciate you Sharing what you know, hands on. I learn something every time.
Thanks John. A draw knife has been on my list of tools to make for a fair while. I love what you said about sharpening. A discussion on that topic can get very heated, with no two people in a group agreeing.
A very nice draw knife indeed! Being a woodworker I have turned many a handle for my own antique tools on the lathe. One discovery I made over the years is placing a furrel on the piece. I have used all those thing you suggested and they work well. But one day years ago, after replacing some plumbing in the kitchen, some feed tubes and the usual, I found myself with those brass nuts from the old feed tubes. As it turned out I was making a few handles for some old tools I'd bought at auction. So I turned a handle and had all these brass fittings from old plumbing projects. I used a 5/8" brass nut. Then I turned the handle slightly bigger than the threads so I was just able to begin to thread it onto the handle. Took a wrench and tightened it up, backed it off and applied glue and tightened it back on nice and tight. I used wood glue and let it set up. So there is my handle on the lathe with a brass nut. So with a sharp tool, some files and sand paper I rounded it off and evened it up with the handle. That brass look nice and after rounded off and polished looks great. Later I'd thread it on, back it off and glue and thread it back on then begin to file it round. The heat and expansion of the wood tightened it right up. So at any hardware store or in your box of old plumbing stuff there will be lots of those brass nut for fittings in many sizes. They are thick enough after turned round and are very tough, look great with old or new tools and can be done quickly enough. Thanks for a Great video as always. Having no anvil anymore, after lending it out and that person skipping town, a long story, I watch you and can't wait to get another. It will happen one day but it the meantime there is lots to do. Thanks again for the Rocky Mountain Iron High! Happy Fourth! DaveyJO in Pa.
Long one today. I would be proud to have a fine piece like that in my arsenal for sure. You are plenty efficient at the lathe bud. Love this whole build !
So that's what I'm doing wrong! I've been grabbing my sharpening stones with my fingers between the blade and the stone!!! 😋 Actually a really good point that most people miss out when showing how to sharpen. I like my knives razor sharp, so I soon learned the best places to keep my fingers. I do still slip occasionally and when that happens, I'm glad I know how to apply butterfly stitches! Another good project. Thank you 😊
You're fantastic! Thank you a lot for sharing your knowledge, I would stay for hours looking at your videos, because I find them very useful for me while working in my little forge, you've helped me so much. Thanks! Stefano from Italy
You was talking about the different stones and you forgot one , Rolling Stones , 😬 well , I thought it was funny . I have a draw knife from 1906 , the handles fold inward . Glad I came across your video, i need new handles on mine. Thanks for the video it was very handy. Hope mine turns out good as your.
Hey John just wanted to stop in to give you some encouragement for the day! keep up the great work on these videos John. I personally know how hard it is to run a full-time blacksmith shop and do UA-cam at the same time. So I just want to say thank you for taking your time and energy to do this for the blacksmithing community. I'll have to watch the entire video later this evening when I get off work. God bless you John and all of the work you do today will catch you on the next one.
Your lathe is exactly like mine, Rockwell, made from 1954 to 1956. Looks to me like that draw knife will get the job done and that's what counts ! 😊 Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
Learned more stuff from your videos asusal. Heaven really has fell on your property. This is the best shop I've seen. Thanks so much for posting. Awesome🔨🔥
I always wondered why they are so expensive , and hard to find in Australia . But after watching these three episodes , and realising the work and man hours it takes to make one , I understand the price :) And if you find one second hand for $50 , at the markets , it's a bargain :) ! Thanks John , educational as usual , your time and effort it producing these tutorials is Very Much Appreciated . Respect !
Fantastic video. I have been hoping you would do a draw knife and now you have. I have no excuses now. I should go and make one. I never thought of epoxy on the handles. I was worried about drilling right through and folding the tangs over and making a mess of it. I have always fitted file handles bu burning them on. 😎
One straightening, I built a jig to apply pressure to blades while in the oven. Do at least one temper cycle before using it. Still on occasion use straightening pins like you, but on a modern vise with notches cut in with an angle grinder to keep the two outer ones in place. On knife blades I normally use 1/2" hardwood dowels for the straightening pins to allow a little more even pressure.
John, Thank you for another great video. Great job on the knife and the handles!!! Video request -- how about making some carving gouges or turning gouges? Rob
John, I buy quarter sawn tight grain for handles and knobs. If you want matching handles try buying stock 5 inches x 5 inches x handle length plus and saw this block thru the 5 inch sides and you should have 4 book marked pieces.
Very good John working on my 3rd one for a neighbours brothers Birthday. I do my handles by hand with my own draw knife, I do not own a lathe but that's ok. Made these from leaf spring and it seems to work very well. I do the handles the same as you, burn them then epoxy them on. Thanks for a great series. Oh got some of those Kevlar gloves the other day when I got my new 2lb rounding hammer from young Paul Pinto, from the USA, good gloves and excellent hammer.
John, thanks! I will proly never make one because I have a couple that I hardly ever use. You convinced me that I need to get a gas saver/gas miser. What brand did you buy? My life shop is slowly filling with useful tools and bits that I see in yours and that watching you use convinces me they would be useful to ME, also. My phone is now somewhat protected in a flap case like yours. Won't bore you to death with the whole list but I really appreciate your videos AND you willingness to share whatever info I want. Thanks again! Dave
Hahaha the amount of things I’ve carved for no reason. I have a big stick. After some time… I have a small stick. It’s the sharpness. Just go into a trance
John, great video series. One question. If it takes even 5 hours to make one of these, is there anyway it would be viable to make them for sale professionally? In your answer to another comment about ads you gave (me at least) the impression that one of these would run 3-5 hundred. While I certainly agree with the pricing scheme, that seems a bit excessive for the actual tool. How would you deal with that as far as pricing goes? Perhaps that's to much detail for the comments section, but I would be interested to know how you would price something like that, or if it just simply would not be viable to sell at shop rate prices. Thanks.
This may very well be a question worthy of a full video. A shop that charges $100 per hour will have power hammers and grinders that will greatly shorten the time involved in making something like this. The shop without those tools will have a much lower overhead and doesn't need to make as much per hour but will have more hours. In the end the labor cost is similar. Making this out of single piece construction will save time as well, plus working in batches greatly increases efficiency. Another factor is a price based on what the market will bare. on something like this I tend to make a lower hourly rate but have other items that make up the difference. This drawknife would be priced at $100 which ios on the low end because it isn't quite as good as it could be. A similar length with a heavier blade that would be better in my opinion would be about $150. Again that is on the lower end of the pay scale. If you search online you can find very noce all hand made knives in the $350 price range.
Black Bear Forge Thanks for the response John. I didn't even think to look around. I just never dreamed there would be a market in that price point for draw knives. For some reason knowing that gives me a good feeling. Not really sure why.
Hammer marks and irregularities are filed or ground out. Course file and grinding scratches must then be removed. If you bring it to a full polish before heat treating such a compound might be useful. But if you wait to do the final clean up after heat treating scale has nothing to do with the need to remove scratches from previous steps.
Excellent video series. Worth Subscribing just for this. I am concerned that in sharpening you didn't make a live sacrifice of a spotted goat or a chicken to the Gods of Sharpening and go to 11,000 grit automotive sandpaper. But thats just me.. (I'm joking)
I bought this lathe from a high school wood shop that was upgrading their equipment. There was no gap filler with it when I got it. To ban, it would be much better for turning handles on if I could slide the tool rest over.
It's a Delta 12 inch gap bed wood lathe. It will swing 16 inches over the gap. It's variable speed. If you watch closely John adjust the speed while he is turning with the handle down on the front left hand side of the lathe. The lathe was made in the late 50's and up until the late 60's
Work with nature, this is definitely a dedicated wood lathe. You could use it for end boring in metal, but there is no tool holder setup for metal turning.
Not really, without the model # I'm just guessing. I've rebuilt several of these machines and most of them are missing the gap filler. I was just happy to see one still in service.
Wonderful video. Here are some filing thoughts from a gunsmith, blacksmith, try laying your file on the work and pushing instead of jabbing at your work like you do. Your files will last longer and your filing will be much more accurate. Not criticizing, just suggesting.
Hey John I need a new 72” belt sander where can I get plans to build one ? My old ones just falling apart designed bad and plain sucks the motors great 👍 so I need some good plans !
Look for the vertical and horizontal converting belt-sander ua-cam.com/video/a_RlL1O-bK4/v-deo.html. He has plans you can buy, and looks to be spiffy. I bought the plans and it looks really nice!
I’ve been Woodturning for 40 years, and that’s as nice a job of turning a handle as anybody can do. I don’t believe there’s any room for criticism.
Thank you for sharing your artistry.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment
Starting at 27:12, if you stare at the tip of the tang, you can see it flex back and forth as the torch moves up and down - great demonstration of physics.
Sharpening - I've never found a factory edge that I was really happy with, if you need a good edge, sharpen it yourself.
Sharpening is an art well worth learning.
Thanks for another great lesson, John.
Love your work. On the draw knife I made I rounded off the end of the tangs and cut a thread on them so they could be secured with dome nuts. They aint moving!
It's best to set them beyond the handle and rivet them over a metal cap or use a nut like you did. All professionally made draw knives use that method for safety. If a handle comes off when in use, it could cut you badly.
Thank you for the detailed information. I was just looking for ways to affix new handles to my old Worth drawknife but I watched the whole video and will go back to the first two just out of curiosity.
Glad it was helpful!
In a hundred years that'll still be a useful knife if people haven't forgotten what you do with.
I would like to see you discuss filing: type, coarseness, collecting, cleaning, care, and reuse of worn files.
It is certainly a video I need to do
It's been fun. Good series of videos. Thank you
First ! 😜
I guess it doesn't count when I say it.
Black Bear Forge Sure it does. Your the hardest guy to beat. That Drawknife has some great lines, one day I hope to develop the “Eye” for seeing the artistic part of Blacksmithing. You know you got some skill in the wood game, your turning your own handles, I mean that very respectfully. That’s not exactly beginners new guy stuff and you get watch yourself while you’re doing the work. Watching myself working like that I’d be “Oh no, look at that idiot about to cut his......crap”
Nope, it doesn't. HA!
I was trying taters while listening to your Hollywood special! You got a smooth tone, the words to validate. I appreciate you Sharing what you know, hands on. I learn something every time.
Thanks John. A draw knife has been on my list of tools to make for a fair while. I love what you said about sharpening. A discussion on that topic can get very heated, with no two people in a group agreeing.
A very nice draw knife indeed! Being a woodworker I have turned many a handle for my own antique tools on the lathe. One discovery I made over the years is placing a furrel on the piece. I have used all those thing you suggested and they work well. But one day years ago, after replacing some plumbing in the kitchen, some feed tubes and the usual, I found myself with those brass nuts from the old feed tubes. As it turned out I was making a few handles for some old tools I'd bought at auction. So I turned a handle and had all these brass fittings from old plumbing projects. I used a 5/8" brass nut. Then I turned the handle slightly bigger than the threads so I was just able to begin to thread it onto the handle. Took a wrench and tightened it up, backed it off and applied glue and tightened it back on nice and tight. I used wood glue and let it set up. So there is my handle on the lathe with a brass nut. So with a sharp tool, some files and sand paper I rounded it off and evened it up with the handle. That brass look nice and after rounded off and polished looks great. Later I'd thread it on, back it off and glue and thread it back on then begin to file it round. The heat and expansion of the wood tightened it right up. So at any hardware store or in your box of old plumbing stuff there will be lots of those brass nut for fittings in many sizes. They are thick enough after turned round and are very tough, look great with old or new tools and can be done quickly enough. Thanks for a Great video as always. Having no anvil anymore, after lending it out and that person skipping town, a long story, I watch you and can't wait to get another. It will happen one day but it the meantime there is lots to do. Thanks again for the Rocky Mountain Iron High! Happy Fourth! DaveyJO in Pa.
Long one today. I would be proud to have a fine piece like that in my arsenal for sure. You are plenty efficient at the lathe bud. Love this whole build !
Thank you
So that's what I'm doing wrong! I've been grabbing my sharpening stones with my fingers between the blade and the stone!!! 😋 Actually a really good point that most people miss out when showing how to sharpen. I like my knives razor sharp, so I soon learned the best places to keep my fingers. I do still slip occasionally and when that happens, I'm glad I know how to apply butterfly stitches! Another good project. Thank you 😊
Lol your better then I ! I start out with a nice piece of wood and end up with a nice tooth pick I. The end many times lol!
You're fantastic! Thank you a lot for sharing your knowledge, I would stay for hours looking at your videos, because I find them very useful for me while working in my little forge, you've helped me so much. Thanks! Stefano from Italy
You was talking about the different stones and you forgot one , Rolling Stones , 😬 well , I thought it was funny .
I have a draw knife from 1906 , the handles fold inward . Glad I came across your video, i need new handles on mine. Thanks for the video it was very handy.
Hope mine turns out good as your.
Good job.. I like seeking the finished product!!!
GOD Bless
Nice compilation John and you are spot on with the myths and folklore surrounding the mythical art of sharpening 👍🏴
Great series!
Hey John just wanted to stop in to give you some encouragement for the day! keep up the great work on these videos John. I personally know how hard it is to run a full-time blacksmith shop and do UA-cam at the same time. So I just want to say thank you for taking your time and energy to do this for the blacksmithing community. I'll have to watch the entire video later this evening when I get off work. God bless you John and all of the work you do today will catch you on the next one.
Thank you Roy. It's a long one, so it might take three sittings.
Your lathe is exactly like mine, Rockwell, made from 1954 to 1956.
Looks to me like that draw knife will get the job done and that's what counts ! 😊
Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
No such thing as a 'how to' video that's too long. Not with the detail and info you've put into it. Thank you sir!
Beautiful draw knife,well done.
Thank you
This was a very fun and informative series of videos to watch.Thank You for sharing with us all in youtube land!
Learned more stuff from your videos asusal. Heaven really has fell on your property. This is the best shop I've seen. Thanks so much for posting. Awesome🔨🔥
I always wondered why they are so expensive , and hard to find in Australia . But after watching these three episodes , and realising the work and man hours it takes to make one , I understand the price :)
And if you find one second hand for $50 , at the markets , it's a bargain :) !
Thanks John , educational as usual , your time and effort it producing these tutorials is Very Much Appreciated .
Respect !
A good used drawknife for $50 seems reasonable
Nice job John. Looks good. Really enjoyed watching your process.
Thank you
Thank you John. Your videos always make my day go better. Great work.
Your welcome
Wise man. Thanks for this. I personally appreciate the insight and knowledge.
Very good series John.
Thank you
Smashing success love it! Thank you Black Bear !
Epoxy is my favorite method of attaching handles
Fantastic video. I have been hoping you would do a draw knife and now you have.
I have no excuses now. I should go and make one.
I never thought of epoxy on the handles. I was worried about drilling right through and folding the tangs over and making a mess of it.
I have always fitted file handles bu burning them on.
😎
One straightening, I built a jig to apply pressure to blades while in the oven. Do at least one temper cycle before using it. Still on occasion use straightening pins like you, but on a modern vise with notches cut in with an angle grinder to keep the two outer ones in place. On knife blades I normally use 1/2" hardwood dowels for the straightening pins to allow a little more even pressure.
I mix my epoxy on a piece of the blue tape. Then I can just throw the tape away. Really loved the series on making the draw knife.
Excellent tutorial... especially the historical facts on how it was done originally. thanks.
Thanks. Very helpful
Thanks John. This has been a great series.
Really enjoy your videos. So nice with the way you explain all the whys and hows!
I’m like l watching you. I have done some blacksmith in and am gonna try to get back into it in the next couple years possibly
John,
Thank you for another great video. Great job on the knife and the handles!!!
Video request -- how about making some carving gouges or turning gouges?
Rob
I am sure we will get to those.
John, I buy quarter sawn tight grain for handles and knobs. If you want matching handles try buying stock 5 inches x 5 inches x handle length plus and saw this block thru the 5 inch sides and you should have 4 book marked pieces.
Very good John working on my 3rd one for a neighbours brothers Birthday. I do my handles by hand with my own draw knife, I do not own a lathe but that's ok. Made these from leaf spring and it seems to work very well. I do the handles the same as you, burn them then epoxy them on. Thanks for a great series. Oh got some of those Kevlar gloves the other day when I got my new 2lb rounding hammer from young Paul Pinto, from the USA, good gloves and excellent hammer.
👍 great series! I learned a lot. Thank you so much.
Good tutorial on the many steps involved in tool making! Nice job! Well done, Sir.
Looks great. i like it.
Great job!!!!
beautiful!
Very nice!
John, make a template for your handles, much quicker in the long run. Great 3 vids 👍
Possibly, although I do use the sample handle as a guide. .
John, thanks! I will proly never make one because I have a couple that I hardly ever use. You convinced me that I need to get a gas saver/gas miser. What brand did you buy? My life shop is slowly filling with useful tools and bits that I see in yours and that watching you use convinces me they would be useful to ME, also. My phone is now somewhat protected in a flap case like yours. Won't bore you to death with the whole list but I really appreciate your videos AND you willingness to share whatever info I want. Thanks again!
Dave
I'm glad the videos are helping out
I'm just making my handles now...
I've seen guys clamp it up with a 3 point like that and place it in the tempering oven clamped for it to come it straight.
I tried that on a chisel once with limited results.
Sharpen away any way works for you 😉👍
Hahaha the amount of things I’ve carved for no reason. I have a big stick. After some time… I have a small stick. It’s the sharpness. Just go into a trance
I saw Curiosity Forge using a big heavy magnet to hold a blade against the belt. It looked safer and seemed to sand better.
Issue with that is you cannot feel it heating up, so makes it easier to kill the temper
Ouroboros Armory excellent point
very good part:)
Thanks
10” diamond files on ebay used for glass super cheap now come in various grits.
interesting idea.
i use them for shaping carbide and HSS into customized hand tools.
dont take the curve because of the pressure while using the tool will be needed to counter the downward pressure.
John, great video series. One question. If it takes even 5 hours to make one of these, is there anyway it would be viable to make them for sale professionally? In your answer to another comment about ads you gave (me at least) the impression that one of these would run 3-5 hundred. While I certainly agree with the pricing scheme, that seems a bit excessive for the actual tool. How would you deal with that as far as pricing goes? Perhaps that's to much detail for the comments section, but I would be interested to know how you would price something like that, or if it just simply would not be viable to sell at shop rate prices.
Thanks.
This may very well be a question worthy of a full video. A shop that charges $100 per hour will have power hammers and grinders that will greatly shorten the time involved in making something like this. The shop without those tools will have a much lower overhead and doesn't need to make as much per hour but will have more hours. In the end the labor cost is similar. Making this out of single piece construction will save time as well, plus working in batches greatly increases efficiency. Another factor is a price based on what the market will bare. on something like this I tend to make a lower hourly rate but have other items that make up the difference. This drawknife would be priced at $100 which ios on the low end because it isn't quite as good as it could be. A similar length with a heavier blade that would be better in my opinion would be about $150. Again that is on the lower end of the pay scale. If you search online you can find very noce all hand made knives in the $350 price range.
Black Bear Forge Thanks for the response John. I didn't even think to look around. I just never dreamed there would be a market in that price point for draw knives. For some reason knowing that gives me a good feeling. Not really sure why.
It works better for axes and adzes but I like the rooster method for sharpening best.
NIce John, Thanks.....now I want a lathe...Should be in the shop and not watching UA-cam.
Tom Wilson Fox makes a very nice small one perfect for handels and small work
Why do you not use Brownells Anti Scaling compound? It would eliminate a lot of sanding and polishing.
Hammer marks and irregularities are filed or ground out. Course file and grinding scratches must then be removed. If you bring it to a full polish before heat treating such a compound might be useful. But if you wait to do the final clean up after heat treating scale has nothing to do with the need to remove scratches from previous steps.
Turned out to be an elegant draw knife. By the way, did you forge your lathe chisels? That would be a good idea to make some. Thanks for your time.
The large roughing gouge is one I made, the others I did not.
Excellent video series. Worth Subscribing just for this. I am concerned that in sharpening you didn't make a live sacrifice of a spotted goat or a chicken to the Gods of Sharpening and go to 11,000 grit automotive sandpaper. But thats just me.. (I'm joking)
Hi Johnm do you ever heat up your Farel like a wagon tire and put it on, Then quinch it in water for a tight fit?
I haven't tried doing it that way.
That looks like a Delta 46-612 Lathe. Nice! Where is the gap filler? :)
I bought this lathe from a high school wood shop that was upgrading their equipment. There was no gap filler with it when I got it. To ban, it would be much better for turning handles on if I could slide the tool rest over.
I was expecting you to cut burrs or notches on the metal handles before you glued them into the wood. Does it hold well enough without them?
The epoxy should be stronger than the wood handle.
That lathe is a very nice tool. Do they use them for metal as in are they interchangeable or specifically made for wood?
It's a Delta 12 inch gap bed wood lathe. It will swing 16 inches over the gap. It's variable speed. If you watch closely John adjust the speed while he is turning with the handle down on the front left hand side of the lathe. The lathe was made in the late 50's and up until the late 60's
Jim, it looks like you know much more about this lathe than I do.
Work with nature, this is definitely a dedicated wood lathe. You could use it for end boring in metal, but there is no tool holder setup for metal turning.
Not really, without the model # I'm just guessing. I've rebuilt several of these machines and most of them are missing the gap filler. I was just happy to see one still in service.
Ah that makes sense. Was just wondering if you could get one that does both kinda. In any case what a nice tool to own. Thanks.
David.
I still want to buy your drawknife
When I finished it and thought I might keep it for myself, I knew someone would ask to buy it. So I decoded that I would be willing to sell for $100
Black Bear Forge how do i get a hold of you?
Black Bear Forge it will have a good home with a wood carver wanting to carve natural canes
You may email me at switz@mindspring.com
John, do you have plans for that drawhorse? I need them badly...
This is one someone else made, so i don't have any plans
Hi Black Bear. What brand of belt wander do you have?
At the time of this video you were probably seeing a Wilton Square Wheel. I have recently added a KMG-TX from Beaumont Metal Works.
Is it just the angle or are the older draw knives bowed?
Some of them are, I don't recall exactly;y which ones I used in the video.
John what do you call the tool you hang your torch on and who makes it?
t is a gas saver, I think made by Smith I talk about it in this video ua-cam.com/video/AyFkNUlHE-s/v-deo.html
Wonderful video. Here are some filing thoughts from a gunsmith, blacksmith, try laying your file on the work and pushing instead of jabbing at your work like you do. Your files will last longer and your filing will be much more accurate. Not criticizing, just suggesting.
it has to be sharpened in 500 year old scotch on a full moon on February 29 or its not sharpened right :)
Oh good, I have time to put it off then
LMAO that'sa good one
thanks it sounded good in my head any way
Hey John I need a new 72” belt sander where can I get plans to build one ? My old ones just falling apart designed bad and plain sucks the motors great 👍 so I need some good plans !
Steve Dingman there's some good you tube vids on these
Mine is based on the KMG grinder. There are various plans out there and lots of videos. But I don't have a specific recommendation.
Look for the vertical and horizontal converting belt-sander ua-cam.com/video/a_RlL1O-bK4/v-deo.html. He has plans you can buy, and looks to be spiffy. I bought the plans and it looks really nice!