Forging V bit blacksmiths tongs
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2020
- The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/blackbearforge10201
using the punches and chisels from the last video we look at forging a pair of V blacksmiths tongs
tongs #vbittongs #blackbearforge
My name is John Switzer, I operate Black Bear Forge, a small one person blacksmith shop located in southern Colorado. My current focus is shifting away from commissions and customer orders and towards education through these videos on UA-cam. Thank you for watching
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Mailing address:
Black Bear Forge
P.O. Box 4
Beulah, CO 81023
If you are curious about some of my other interests, you may like my second channel
John Switzer
/ @johnswitzer
Find my online at:
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Below you will find useful links that will help you in your journey as a blacksmith.
My blacksmiths apron
www.Forge-Aprons.com use code BBF
RZmask 99.5% dust mask
rzmask.com?afmc=ay
To find more information in blacksmithing in the US or to search for your local ABANA affiliate group visit.
www.abana.org/
Blacksmithing tools and supplies
Self contained air hammers - www.saymakhammers.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.oleoacresfarriersupply.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.piehtoolco.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.centaurforge.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsupply.com/
Square head bolts and lags - www.blacksmithbolt.com/
New anvils - www.oldworldanvils.com/
New anvils - www.nimbaanvils.com/
New anvils -
Industrial supplier - www.mcmaster.com
Tong blanks and tools - kensironstore.com/
Fire brick and refractory - refwest.com
Most of my videos are shot on the Canon M50
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Audio is recorded using the RodeLink Filmmaker Wireless Microphone Kit
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If you would like to share your work that was inspired by my videos
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Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
My wife enjoys these videos more than I do, I’m trying to learn, but her father was a Blacksmith. She totally relates to everything you’re doing, understands all the nuances and terminology.
John, you just thoroughly impressed me.
Your admonition to do our own research and not take your word for it in the face of information indicating 1045 should be tempered at 700° was EXTREMELY professional and, and shows the highest of integrity.
I have been coming to your videos for instruction for over a year now, and watching them for entertainment value for a bit longer. I've learned a lot from you in that time--but now I am thoroughly convinced that I have made a good decision in choosing to follow your specific instructions
Thank you, and may your forge stay hot.
Something about the sound of the hammer coming to rest on anvil brings nostalgic feelings
As I struggle with tongues seeing your 90 degrees chisle would have saved me from splitting the grove end to foaming the jars tips.
I try to adsorb all your great work, Thanks John Switzer for your teaching
Thanks again for the V Tong Video. I am just about finished mine but I will have to learn to post a video on utube. 74 yrs old but still learning. My Grandfathers Blacksmith Shop was in Errol near Dundee Scotland. I wish I had never Left the old fella' I spent my childhood working with him until I got married and came to live in Ayrshire. Still I have built my forge made some good tools thanks to black bear Forge. bye for now folks.
Seems like that t-shirt money I gave you last year finally ran out.
Love to see you with a sponsor. You deserve it!
It's so encouraging to see that even seasoned veterans sometimes have a workpiece that's a bit more "resistant".
Hello John: I am a machinist who became a technician and finally and Engineer. I have worked with metal all my life (well most of it anyway) but recently I have started to diversify. Surprisingly I have begun wood working (something my Dad who was a Master Machinist had me soured on for many years because he always said that wood was a miserable material with all the knots and other imperfections. I have since found wood to have a certain beauty of its own.). Anyway, I have also taken an interest in Blacksmithing which incidentally my Dad did because he got into the Machinist trade through the traditional method of beginning as a Blacksmith. Sorry for getting long winded.
Anyway I have watched quite a number of your videos (and "liked' all of them) especially the ones on making tongs. However eventually I did buy a set of tongs because it was frustrating to be in the situation of trying to make a pair of tongs while not having a pair of tongs.
Since then I have made a few pairs of tongs and as you might expect they are a bit ugly though functional. But here is the problem: they are all handed. I made some right and some left, but I am not handed, so when the hammer arm gets tired and I want to switch, I now have tongs that are clumsy in the other hand. Is there a way to make un-handed tongs? Please let me know.
Another fine addition to your growing list of excellent tutorials. Clearly the "blacksmith's third hand" plays an important role in making these!
I enjoy watching tong making videos John .
And more so when they are so well explained.
So thank you for sharing . cheers. (:
The videos are getting better and better by the video john
I appreciate the way you show and describe what DOESN'T work well - It's not often we see the trial and error side of smithing, which is what got me sucked in and keeps me going. The example of attempting the V-bits in the vice and the swage is gold.
I've been knife smithing with 3/4 roundstock for years without a proper pair of tongs. This winter it's tool making time, so thanks for all your great video, they help me broadening my skillset, and also get a better understanding of tradtionnal blacksmithing techniques (which are an interest for my PhD). I really enjoy your videos on old wrought iron.
Glad to help
"Fiddle factor": thought you played the banjo, didn't know you were a fiddler to!!😜😂
Thank you for a good quality and informative video, with no annoying music! This is great!
Thank you for making these videos! Your videos are some of my favorite ones to watch. You are very thorough and explain the steps well. Thanks, brother!
Suddenly 35mins into the video I realized that I bought a pair of holdfasts from you a year ago! I'd never seen your videos until now, thank you for sharing your skills 👍 great work
Glad you like them!
I’ve made a bunch of hammers out of 1045 and i was taught to temper at 400-450 and that’s always worked well for me.
Many, many, many years ago. I worked at a machine shop. There was a lot of scrape metal. I founfld a piece of aluminum with a small lip. I cut it to the width of my anvil and usebit when I hot cut.
I thoroughly enjoy watching this channel. I have always found blacksmith work interesting. It's a really old profession. And there is certainly something fulfilling watching you create and make your own tools . And I'd bet you have one really strong right arm and hand with all that pounding swinging that hammer for hours on end. Thanks for sharing.
My favorite Blacksmith.
I really enjoy your videos. They are extremely helpful and it's like watching the Bob Ross of blacksmithing.
Thanks 👍
Great video as usual John. You make it look a lot easier than it is when I make a pair. That's for sure.
Thanks 👍
Great project. As anew smith, watching things explained 'longhand is so useful! Great job, fast becoming my go to UA-cam channel!
I'm making some knife blade tongs today. Thanks for your videos they help me so much. I watch them over and over. Jim.
Seems like you're getting some more serious interest in your videos from sponsors! Great to see, John
This is one of my favorite and useful videos of yours so far! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thats medieval John, about as traditional as can be! Great tutorial for a smith wanting to stay simple and old school! I dont mind the sponsor, related to the instruction, thanks mate, always watching!
Tongs look cool. Getting that v shape is really tricky but that vshape jig is really helpful. Nice to see videos being sponsored thanks to Skill Share.👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Lovely thanks John.
Great job John, fantastic set of V tongs.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thanks for sharing with us.
Amazing job 👏👏👏👏
Постоянно смотрю Ваше видео! В таких мастеров нужно учиться, что я по немного и делаю! Спасибо Вам за Ваши видео! Крепкого здоровья!
Really great and detailed! Loving the back-to-basics videos. Watched you make these in-person and won them in the raffle. Great experience I won’t forget.
Thank you for another wonderful video 👍
Another great video John great tip on the rivet leaving it long and cut almost off so you can heat it in the Forge great tip thanks for sharing 😁😁👍👍
Another great video, John! Thanks, as always!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Always great info
My current project! Thanks for your video.
John, I just finished my v-bit tong blanks today. My swage self destructed! But I put enough crease to finish the halves. Tomorrow I rivet and set them up! You're the best.
You are a big help thank you!
John those turned out very well there. love the video always great learning from your videos.keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. forge on can't wait to see what you decide to throw in the fire next
Hello John
A nice pair of tongs with the fidely factor 😊
I like this word and i have learned alot thanks for that
Have a good Weekend and a nice week
Stay save yours Frank
Professional artwork as always!😀
great you got sponsors John. good for you.👍
Love your videos and teaching. Wish I could find someone to teach pattern welding like you do
I will reference my machinery hand book.
Your videos are very educational and I enjoy them. Have you thought of doing a video showing how to take old shoeing nippers to make tongs for people getting started.
Hell yeah to being explicitly open to new information and such (re: 1045 heat treating info). Not that I expect anything else from you, I've just had that experience of people refusing new information because they think they're an authority and it's always frustrating.
As usual John you make it look easy. Love the way you are trying to teach us. I still struggle with what l should do first. I am sure that it took you a while when you first started.
Nice John!
The grandmaster at work! :)
Just recently finished a pair of your flat bar tongs, so this looks like my next pair; thanks for the great video!
Glad I could help!
Damn I wish I had a forge. This channel really makes you wanna try some real blacksmithing
try making one for yourself!!!!
@@thunderblunder5994 Yea I probably would if I had a forge. Like I said, that's what I like about this channel, it makes you wanna try it. Sorry I'm not sure if I understood what you meant
@@GarageKnight Build, your, own forge, there is noting stopping you but you
@@thunderblunder5994 well yeah except money lol
@@GarageKnight tbh the most expensive part is an anvil, but untill you have money for one you can use a peice of train rail.
good humility - 1045 can be used as spring steel, but it isn't optimal. I temper in the same range you do for punches and chisels. No idea for fullers, they could maybe go higher. Thanks for everything. I love watching how you solve the problems we face.
thanks so much!! I am just starting making tongs and was trying to make a pair of those yesterday! so thanks for all the wonderful information, stay safe, shane
Glad I could help!
Thank you so much!!
Pay attention to the order of your processes. No truer words were spoken
26:30-ish... what a great additional for you v-swage that I never considered. Too easy to get tunnel vision on a purpose of a tool and not appreciate the flexibility in blacksmithing!
Great project. Thank you.
Audio is lagging just a fuzz not a problem though.
Good job thank you for sharing I also have had good luck tempern 1045 at 4 50
You can never have enough pairs of tongs
Great thanks.
From my limited experience I have difficulty understanding how much metal is needed to make a particular shape.
It does take experience. But you can also test using clay to see how much is needed. Most things can be calculated mathematically as well.
Very informative, I am struggling to make a decent pair of tongs.
Amazing,A set or pair of tong,s like them would be £40 plus here in the UK,thank,s John stay safe you and your,s
I got some for £17 (flatbit) you just need to rivet them together yourself.
v heavy duty enough steel in the bit to re-forge them into bolt/v bit tings and others.
look on ebay I think his ebay name is fishnchips. if you cant find it let me know ill look on my ebay for his details and send you them.
@@christiandixon2086 Thankyou very much, found him and ordered,Fishandpeas is his name once again thankyou Stay safe
@@roydawson4882 not a problem pal, 👍
Great video I am currently making a set of bolt v bit tong a can use some of what you have done to help me.
Rolling toward your hand simplifies the process to make shire the parts are the same 👍
It also makes sure you end up with a pair of tongs meant to be held in that hand. Otherwise they are harder to control.
Drawing stuff out is the worst part of tool making. My right shoulder was badly injured in Iraq from multiple IEds and I love making things, but just hammering the crap out of something is brutal. I'll make this a project that takes a few days - those are good looking tongs.
Nice instruction! My wrist got tired watching you hammer. I bet you could jig for lake trout all day long:)
I agree 700f seems awfully high. Expecially for 1045. I wouldn’t even temper s7, 4140, h13, 5160, etc anywhere near that high. Unless I was making an actually spring
It doesn't have to be pretty ,just has to be functional!!
34:15 Tong tongs!
You mentioned before that Borax is really slippery, would it help loosen the joint if you melted some into it?
Also, have you ever made rail spike tongs, or have you ever tried just modifying something like lineman's (aka bullnose) pliers into tongs?
Enjoy your videos! Curious what kind of glove you are wearing.
I use hot mill gloves that I buy from Pieh Tool. I think the one in this video was their newer Kevlar knit glove
700°f would draw your metal past peacock blue into grays. you would lose all your hardness and only leave toughness and ductility
Great video, When you were setting/peening the rivet, how did you get the rivet to glow so hot but not the surrounding area. Did you quench them partially? Thanks.
The smaller rivet heats up faster than the heavier tongs. You just have to get it out of the fire at the right point.
@@BlackBearForge Thank you.
Hey John, I'm new to blacksmithing, so some things I'm not 100% clear on. Do the "half face blows" you're talking about here mean that the hammer face is striking half on and half off of the anvil? Or is it that the hammer is at a 45⁰ angle?
Half faced blows mean the hammer is half on the anvil and half off. ua-cam.com/video/iu1QI4val68/v-deo.html
Would making a jig for the flypress similar to the top and bottom tools you used at the Hardy be a good fit here for shaping the vbit?
I watched this when it came out, just watching again under my new channel. Thanks John!
Yes, they would probably be a better approach. It just takes time to make the specialized tooling.
Nice, thought it might. I have a ton or so of old 4140 dies from a big press brake. Thinking of tooling I can make. Thanks so much for the reply to a somewhat older video of yours. You are much appreciated, friend.
Maybe using the press or fly press would be worth a try
The flypress would be ideal once you made the tooling
Funny how all the free trial offers always want your credit card info or no free trial.
True, you just have to remember to cancel
I know this is an older video but may I ask if you used the flat or rounded head when reducing the reigns?
For something like this I mostly use the face and work over the horn to speed the drawing process.
How you like those new gloves? Do I remember you saying you could buy them in only lefts or rights?
So far its still working out well. They are not left or right specific.
Have you ever done a pair with ball ends on the handles? How would you go about it?
No, I don't find the balls very important. But you could forge them easily from the 3/4" bar I stated with on these.
I have issues getting my material up to white hot. Just home made coal forge with a blower. Just seems like bright yellow is hot as it gets
Yellow heat is enough for forge welding, anything hotter is burning material.
Do you not advocate using the side of the anvil to draw the reins?
So I wondered when you were starting the V in the jaws in this video and others as well...why not use the corner edge of the anvil?
You could
As opposed to rounding off the boss, would it affect the usefullness by leaving it mostly squared up or would that impact the use of the tongs?
Its mostly an aesthetic choice.
@@BlackBearForge ok thank you wasn't sure on that as most tongs I see are rounded off as opposed to squared.
Using a hand held hot cut, I teach to use a cutting plate, just a piece of mild plate over the face of the anvil. Not because it is a better way to go than not using it but because it saves the face of my anvils from accidental cut marks. Other than that, everything is pretty much the same. I say to roll the tong out rather than to say roll to your tong holding hand but both ways are the same LOL. I also use 3/8 x 1/2 starting the bit with the stock 1/2 high and forge the jaw down to 3/8 thick, rather than 3/4 sq as it is a bit less drawing but you do wind up with a little smaller tong. I agree straight bit tongs are easier than bolt tongs and are just as effective with straight stock. Nice job!
Well then Wayne, with all your information. You should make a video. I should also note, John has used a sacrificial plate to hot cut a hundred time in his videos.
@@78LW I have, the projects take twice as long to do and the editing takes as long as the project. I just finished one beginner class this morning and have another one after lunch so I don't have a lot of time to make videos though I do send people to this channel for good information.
@@78LW ua-cam.com/channels/Ru2UCVR81kaiNVDzwjXWLw.html
Is the fact that your tongs are either left or right handed based on your hammer hand or the hand you use to hold your tongs in
I go by the hand I hold my tongs in. So left handed tongs in my left hand. But since your making your own, just make them to fit the correct hand
Como puedo aser una con pra
How do I buy some rings from you I am just starting out
Hi, Just wondering at about 3:41 your holding some kind of engineers chalk pencil, do you know the brand at all? :-)
Thats a welders silver pencil. The product is Markal Silver streak. They should be available at most welding shops. I also have them on my Etsy shop
@@BlackBearForge Thanks :-) I'm across the pond in the UK so the delivery is large but managed to find a local supplier. Thanks again your videos are amazing and very informative!
Does a propane forge save time? It seems like the heats last significantly longer than im used to
Propane should be able to achieve the same heat as coal if set up properly. But it really saves time by being able to heat multiple peices at one time as well as heating a larger area.
@@BlackBearForge does it make much of a difference that it heats up the whole piece instead of parts of it
Do you still use your hidraulic press? Do you think someone looking for buying/building a power hammer should consider a press instead?
I do for certain things, but find the power hammer to be more versatile n most cases. But a press can have advantages such as cost, no special foundation and won't bug the neighbors.
@@BlackBearForge thanks for your answer.
So I have to say this, the end where you drew the end of the reins out you could have left fairly fat and people who have arthritis would be better able to handle them. That's just my thought on it.
Could you not just bet it over a piece of angle iron that is 90 degrees? that would give you the v or weld a small piece of square bar point down and beat it over that
If you drove a groove down the center with the v punch on the face of the environment it have folded easier
700 would be too soft for a punch
Good work, but I think it would have been easier to make the jaws just like the ones of bolt tongs (with chiseling the jaws open) but without that arc-like shape, more like normal flat jaw tongs.
You seem to be able to bash these out insanely fast whenever I do them it always takes me forever like two days for a pair I'm wondering if anyone here has tips on how to speed things up a bit.
Its largely a matter of practice. Start with hammer control and precision, then move on to power and speed
@@BlackBearForge understand thank you I appreciate the help.
Ahh, pay them no heed. Probably people who confuse the datasheets of Steels in Europe....no idea how that works in other places but over here the tools steels have a tempering diagram from as quenched to max sensible temper, that being usually in the 700F range. Machinery steels however have a range of tempers shown for reliable tensile strength with some degree of ductility. A range which conveniently starts at around 700F and ends shortly before a full anneal. Confusing and criminally stupid. No idea who came up with this, especially given how some steels are both machinery and tools steels (spring steels, in particular)
How many ads ??