Hey Bundy great overview of the top end of the J-series engineer. Haven’t looked down below yet but hope there is a video on valve adjustment. I have the tool and specs just nice to see it done before digging in. Thank You 😊
thanks for the overview, I have a maybe stupid question, so I had installed the rear head and come to find out, it had the sprocket 180 degrees in the opposite direction. I went ahead and removed it, and loosen the rockers and set it at TDC, so here goes the stupid question, or not. should the valves on cylinder 2 intake, and 3 exhaust be open. please advise, not sure if I should install head with open valves, But maybe that is correct. The front head I installed is TDC, but didn't check to see if the valves were open or not after I did the valve job. thanks
Great video! Bought a project Odyssey 230k 2006 touring non vtec. Original problem 6mm bolt dropped in intake and lodged in #5 intake. Pulled that head got different head and lapped valves and new stem seals. Reinstalled head, Aisin timing belt kit. Now running. Drive it home and burning 1qt/ 75mi. Burns the most oil if I let off gas pedal and coast then on the next acceleration bam mosquito killer! I am leaning toward doing piston rings on all 6. I also thought about just the rear head valve stem seals. Compression on 4,5,6 are 185,160,175 and “rear” 1,2,3 are 230,220,215 suspecting higher due to oil. Plugs are wet. I would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks. Also installed VCM muzzled 2.
you said you were putting the cam back in bc you changed the valves and stuff.... but you didnt need to right? im about to do my first valve job. i avent seen anywhere that said the cam has to come out.
Hi Bundy. Can the end cap cause a small oil leak at the camshaft seal on the other end somehow? I’ve replaced the camshaft seal twice but I’m still getting a very small amount of oil leak coming out of the camshaft rear cover. None reaches the ground but you can see that it’s leaking oil. What’s your take on this? Thank you.
Gm I'm doin timming belt work on 2012 crosstour both tdc n front camshaft line up but the rear camshaft wont line up its one tooth off any help or suggestion with this issue?
Got a question: i know you can rotate the cam gear and adjust the valves on the front head 4-5&6 before you put the head on. What if i carefully transfer the marks to the back cam(very easy) Can i then adjust the valves on the back head too before installing the head? Of course i will recheck them after timing belt is on. In my honda odyssey i cant see exhaust valves on cylinder 1-2-&3 when head is on😎😎😎 Thanks👍 And yes put blocks of wood under each end of head so that valves wont hit anything👍
I’ve never done that. I’ve always adjusted the valves once the heads are on and the timing belt is set. It’s the last thing I do before I fire it up. It would be a real PITA to do all that work and then have the valves and the pistons hit each other just cause you were trying to save some time. I wouldn’t recommend it.
I can do the valve adjustment with the head out of the block? Because my head is in the machine shop right now and i think is more easy out of the block before installed again
@@eduardomartel1530 very carefully transfer the marks from the front cam to the back cam. Just be sure to have the head raised up on blocks and make dang sure as u rotate the cam that the valves Do Not hit anything! Take your time! Hit me back if u need any tips👍👍👍
Hi Bundy, great video! I'm working on putting my 2006 Odyssey cylinder head back together. Quick question, I reassembled the head just like you did and then used a wrench to turn the camshaft. It was hard to turn each time the cam contacted one of the middle arms on the intake(VTEC) side. It took a lot of force before the cam would move past that point. Once it did it was easy to move until the cam got to the next middle arm. I lubed the cam before installing and the rocker shafts/arms. All of the valve clearance adjusting screws were backed all the way off. Worried something is wrong? Thanks!
Thanks for watching. Why are you rotating the camshaft in the first place? You should have set the cam gear in the correct position before installing the head on the block.
@@bundysgarage Hi, it's not installed on the head yet, still on the bench. I just did what you did in the J series head assembly video. I put a wrench on the cam gear bolt to rotate it and make sure everything moves. I just wasn't expecting the amount of resistance I felt when the cam contacted each of the middle arms. Made me think something was wrong. Guess it's the arms pushing against the VTEC springs? I really enjoy your videos. thanks.
You mention you have a lot of experience with Honda V6 engines. I recently had my timing belt fail at highway cruising speed (due to apparent "Genuine Honda" knock-off parts purchased on Ebay (ugh) after only 6k miles on the new belt. A failed belt tensioner is the root cause. I see there's some people saying you have nothing to lose by simply trying to replace the belt (and tensioner) and see what happens. It's not that much labor to try, but do you think it's worth it or from your experience should I simply go after pulling the heads and inspecting the valves right away?
Thanks for reaching out. The V6 has a higher chance of having damage, more so then than the 4 cylinders. The best approach would be to do a leak down test on the engine and then you would know for sure if your valves are damaged. And don’t buy parts like that off of eBay.
@@bundysgarage thanks so much for the quick response. Great video by the way. I only purchased them off Ebay as they were in "Genuine" packaging and were sold as legit genuine Honda parts. Their feedback rating was great, too. If I only knew then what I know now. Thanks!
I had the exact same failure. eBay parts that had "Honda" label on all the bags. Timing belt broke at 65MPH and bent some of my valves on cylinder one. I'm getting ready to pull the head and replace a couple of valves.
hey bundy. thanks for the video. i have a 2012 odyssey with a tapping noise. I suspect, i may need to replace the one cam gear. Can i replace it whitout removing the head from the van? do you thinks it may be a wear on the cam gear. The tapping seems to be the louder near cylinder 4. The tapping is louder if i have the stetoscope on the plastic cover next to cylinder 4. i placed the stetoscope on the oil pan and it is not as loud as on the plastic cover of the timing belt next to cylinder 4. the van has 170 miles. it is still running perfect no issues, no lights , just that tapping noise. I replaced the timing belt kit with new water pump, tensioner, idler etc and still the same tapping noise. the tapping noise seems to be there all the time, but is less noticeable when the engine is warm. it is not very loud if i am inside the van bearly hear it. this is the link for the tapping noise ua-cam.com/video/VqaHOI-K_JQ/v-deo.html . any advice will be appreciated.
I have 2006 pilot 2wd took front head off, or bank 2 and took cam off and rockers and I had no lifters or followers. Just 3 empty holes. Is this right?
I had just replaced it not too long ago and that is why I did it show it. But it is a good idea to do. If you do decide to change it only use an OE Honda deal.
Just felt the vtech kick in yo
Hey Bundy great overview of the top end of the J-series engineer. Haven’t looked down below yet but hope there is a video on valve adjustment. I have the tool and specs just nice to see it done before digging in. Thank You 😊
Here you go, if you need any more help let me know ua-cam.com/video/yErUsK6wg-Y/v-deo.html
@@bundysgarage asked about lost motion springs any info would be amazing
Can the camshaft go into the head upside down and leave the gear on the other side where the cap with the o ring should be?
Are those 3 springs that your saying goes upside down be considered the lost motion springs?
Thanks for sharing Bundy!
My pleasure!!
What are the torque specs
thanks for the overview, I have a maybe stupid question, so I had installed the rear head and come to find out, it had the sprocket 180 degrees in the opposite direction. I went ahead and removed it, and loosen the rockers and set it at TDC, so here goes the stupid question, or not. should the valves on cylinder 2 intake, and 3 exhaust be open. please advise, not sure if I should install head with open valves, But maybe that is correct. The front head I installed is TDC, but didn't check to see if the valves were open or not after I did the valve job. thanks
Great video! Bought a project Odyssey 230k 2006 touring non vtec. Original problem 6mm bolt dropped in intake and lodged in #5 intake. Pulled that head got different head and lapped valves and new stem seals. Reinstalled head, Aisin timing belt kit. Now running. Drive it home and burning 1qt/ 75mi. Burns the most oil if I let off gas pedal and coast then on the next acceleration bam mosquito killer! I am leaning toward doing piston rings on all 6. I also thought about just the rear head valve stem seals. Compression on 4,5,6 are 185,160,175 and “rear” 1,2,3 are 230,220,215 suspecting higher due to oil. Plugs are wet. I would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks. Also installed VCM muzzled 2.
you said you were putting the cam back in bc you changed the valves and stuff.... but you didnt need to right? im about to do my first valve job. i avent seen anywhere that said the cam has to come out.
Hi Bundy. Can the end cap cause a small oil leak at the camshaft seal on the other end somehow? I’ve replaced the camshaft seal twice but I’m still getting a very small amount of oil leak coming out of the camshaft rear cover. None reaches the ground but you can see that it’s leaking oil. What’s your take on this? Thank you.
Where are the tourque specs
Gm I'm doin timming belt work on 2012 crosstour both tdc n front camshaft line up but the rear camshaft wont line up its one tooth off any help or suggestion with this issue?
What happens if you just put the heads in and bolt it and don't put it to tdc before you install it.
Got a question: i know you can rotate the cam gear and adjust the valves on the front head 4-5&6 before you put the head on. What if i carefully transfer the marks to the back cam(very easy) Can i then adjust the valves on the back head too before installing the head? Of course i will recheck them after timing belt is on. In my honda odyssey i cant see exhaust valves on cylinder 1-2-&3 when head is on😎😎😎 Thanks👍 And yes put blocks of wood under each end of head so that valves wont hit anything👍
I’ve never done that. I’ve always adjusted the valves once the heads are on and the timing belt is set. It’s the last thing I do before I fire it up. It would be a real PITA to do all that work and then have the valves and the pistons hit each other just cause you were trying to save some time. I wouldn’t recommend it.
I can do the valve adjustment with the head out of the block?
Because my head is in the machine shop right now and i think is more easy out of the block before installed again
@@eduardomartel1530 very carefully transfer the marks from the front cam to the back cam. Just be sure to have the head raised up on blocks and make dang sure as u rotate the cam that the valves Do Not hit anything! Take your time! Hit me back if u need any tips👍👍👍
@@kttango9662 thank you bro
Where can I find torque specs for EX and IN BOLT?
What’s the year make and model? Also are the bolts 6 point or 12 point. 2 different torque specs for the different bolts.
Hi Bundy, great video! I'm working on putting my 2006 Odyssey cylinder head back together. Quick question, I reassembled the head just like you did and then used a wrench to turn the camshaft. It was hard to turn each time the cam contacted one of the middle arms on the intake(VTEC) side. It took a lot of force before the cam would move past that point. Once it did it was easy to move until the cam got to the next middle arm. I lubed the cam before installing and the rocker shafts/arms. All of the valve clearance adjusting screws were backed all the way off. Worried something is wrong? Thanks!
Thanks for watching. Why are you rotating the camshaft in the first place? You should have set the cam gear in the correct position before installing the head on the block.
@@bundysgarage Hi, it's not installed on the head yet, still on the bench. I just did what you did in the J series head assembly video. I put a wrench on the cam gear bolt to rotate it and make sure everything moves. I just wasn't expecting the amount of resistance I felt when the cam contacted each of the middle arms. Made me think something was wrong. Guess it's the arms pushing against the VTEC springs? I really enjoy your videos. thanks.
Suppose i wanted to use the twin cam head to replace the single cam it comes with? Would it be a straight forward change?
Hey where can I get that oring for the side cover for the cam? And was it hard to remove?
how do i know which cam goes into which head? and does it make a differnce???
Yes it makes a difference. One of the cams is for exhaust valves and one is for intake valves.
Question im in Jamaica i have 06 ridgeline which overhaul kit should get to rebuild it
For the head gasket or to rebuild the engine?
You mention you have a lot of experience with Honda V6 engines. I recently had my timing belt fail at highway cruising speed (due to apparent "Genuine Honda" knock-off parts purchased on Ebay (ugh) after only 6k miles on the new belt. A failed belt tensioner is the root cause. I see there's some people saying you have nothing to lose by simply trying to replace the belt (and tensioner) and see what happens. It's not that much labor to try, but do you think it's worth it or from your experience should I simply go after pulling the heads and inspecting the valves right away?
Thanks for reaching out. The V6 has a higher chance of having damage, more so then than the 4 cylinders. The best approach would be to do a leak down test on the engine and then you would know for sure if your valves are damaged. And don’t buy parts like that off of eBay.
@@bundysgarage thanks so much for the quick response. Great video by the way. I only purchased them off Ebay as they were in "Genuine" packaging and were sold as legit genuine Honda parts. Their feedback rating was great, too. If I only knew then what I know now. Thanks!
Report that eBay seller!
I had the exact same failure. eBay parts that had "Honda" label on all the bags. Timing belt broke at 65MPH and bent some of my valves on cylinder one. I'm getting ready to pull the head and replace a couple of valves.
Freaking Chinese parts
hey bundy. thanks for the video. i have a 2012 odyssey with a tapping noise. I suspect, i may need to replace the one cam gear. Can i replace it whitout removing the head from the van? do you thinks it may be a wear on the cam gear. The tapping seems to be the louder near cylinder 4. The tapping is louder if i have the stetoscope on the plastic cover next to cylinder 4. i placed the stetoscope on the oil pan and it is not as loud as on the plastic cover of the timing belt next to cylinder 4. the van has 170 miles. it is still running perfect no issues, no lights , just that tapping noise. I replaced the timing belt kit with new water pump, tensioner, idler etc and still the same tapping noise. the tapping noise seems to be there all the time, but is less noticeable when the engine is warm. it is not very loud if i am inside the van bearly hear it. this is the link for the tapping noise ua-cam.com/video/VqaHOI-K_JQ/v-deo.html . any advice will be appreciated.
What did you end up figuring out? I have a 2012 odyssey too, same tapping/knocking. Any help I would appreciate.
I have 2006 pilot 2wd took front head off, or bank 2 and took cam off and rockers and I had no lifters or followers. Just 3 empty holes. Is this right?
email me a picture, bundysgarage at gmail dot com
I have a 97 Honda accord need torque specs for overhead camshaft
Google it
Is that the way Honda does it?
I don’t know how Honda does it, that’s how I do it.
Huh, I always thought that it had 2 cams on each bank.
Nope
В сальник ставить не нужно? Не увидел его...
I had just replaced it not too long ago and that is why I did it show it. But it is a good idea to do. If you do decide to change it only use an OE Honda deal.
i have a 98 accord v6 that looses power then comes back on highway once in awhile any ideas on what might cause that issue
Do you have any codes?
BundysGarage that’s the thing had one for a leak but none found it’s been doing it once in a blue for years now and i keep up with the maintenance
BundysGarage p0171 p1456 p0420 just popped up this morning thanks for the reply