J Series V6 Valves, Valve Stem Seals & Spring Removal | Honda Acura | Accord Odyssey Pilot Ridgeline
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Took the head off a Honda J Series V6 to replace the valve stem seals, valve springs, and new valves would work for this as well. This head found on your V6 Accord Odyssey Pilot Ridgeline Crosstour Acura TL CL MDX. Any Honda Acura application that has a V6 J Series.
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Word of advice, you shouldn't use that Mobil Grease. That's specifically made to stay forever stuck together, its for a completely different application and not intended for inside the engine. Any foreign materiel can get stuck to it, it can block oil passages or prevent the oil from getting on those stems. Better to use anyone of the many different engine tubes out there, or just plain old engine oil. Nice job though.
I did 3 of valve jobs recently and to me the tool that work the best to remove the valve stem seals is a set of hose pliers, they wrap around that seal perfectly pull and out they came 😉 . I enjoy your videos. I have the same valve removal kit it works great for me.
Plus the torch lol. Thank you though fr
Please Help
Can anyone tell me if the tubes in the head that spark plugs go into replaceable???
I have a coil pack that is broke off in the tube. And I can not get the coil pack out of the tube. I was wondering if I can remove the whole tube out of the head???
.....
If the coil is broken off in the hole, get the biggest self tapping screw you can, put it in the center so you can grab it. Make sure you put a washer on it so you can use it for leverage and start pulling lol.
Yikes. My 05 Acura RL is smoking from driving after idle, I'm 99% sure this is the issue. After watching this video tho, I think I'm just gonna sell the car. 😳
I agree my 2010 V6 coupe same thing
I'm going to be doing this soon on a J35A7, but I would never do this job without checking valve stem to valve guide clearance, measuring spring unloaded height or otherwise checking the spring force, and most likely lapping the valves a little unless manufacturer says not to. 24 hour Honda Techinfo pass is $25. But great video though
Good job! Question. Before I take my head to the machine shop for exhaust valves replacement and check for flatness do I need to remove the rocker arm and camshaft?
Yes. The rocker assembly and cam will need to be removed by them if not. Added time = added bill my friend ;)
I should have got into this a LONG time ago,I just bought an Mdx and it's become my new thing to replace so far MINOR things,but will be getting to a valve adjustment soon,it's all about correct steps and taking tume
Why didn’t you hand lap the valves especially with all that carbon build up?
Thanks for the info in this video. Timing belt broke on my 2002 Odyessy and I am in the process of pulling it apart to do the valves. Is there a good site that lists all the replacement parts needed to do a valve replacement.
I have a vcm engine low compression thinking if I do this a metal gasket I might be able to bring her back.
How many valve stem seals come in total in a 2012 Acura mdx 6 cylinder?
"Spin of the earth, pull of the moon" haha youre the man bundy
I appreciate you going to the trouble to share your knowledge.
Cool video Bundy! Loves me some Honda J series engines, got a 3.5L now that pulls smooth and strong. Keep 'em rollin' my man!
Right on!
@@bundysgarage I have 190k miles on my 2010 v-6 accord. I think valve stem seals are bad, getting oil on plug in cylinder 2 and 5. Don't know if it is worth fooling with
Thanks! Enjoy all your J series videos, very helpful
I've been trying to figure out which valve springs were which. I pulled some springs off of a 3G TL Type S to swap onto my J35A3 heads, and noticed they were color coded blue/red. This was a couple of months ago in the summer, so I forgot which was which. After you pulled that exhaust spring off, I immediately saw the blue, and that helped me figure it out. So thank you!
You sure theres a difference in the springs? Mine are mix matched
@@xESPplayer500x Yes, they are. Different part numbers, and the service manual gives different spring pressures between the intake and exhaust.
@@ThefireballVR yea just read the measuremenrs for the height open .003" difference but i guess i can mic em.
Could you tell me where you bought the valve seals because I can't find them I have a 2010 honda pilot and auto parts only have three different ones and I'm not sure if they are correct
The key word is once you take the head off the engine 🤣the timing belt snapped on my Ridgeline idk if i wanna do all the work and replace the valves
Where are you located? Are you interested in selling it?
@@bundysgarage I'm in Alaska , i don't have a garage another reason for my lack of motivation to do the work , I've taken the heads off a Ridgeline before but that was when i was in Florida different story here in Alaska ,it has high mileage and some body damage it won't sell for much
@Mo I would have been interested too, in buying it.. But, Alaska?! 🥶 I’m still curious to hear more about yours, if you still have it?! How’s the weather there, this time of year?
I don’t care what anybody says bad, about ‘em. They’re great trucks and I love mine! I have an ‘06 RTL, do my own “necessary” regular maintenance and I’m just over 324K!! 😱 This valve seal replacement is my next move, as I have narrowed down the culprit of my blueish smoke at startup/low idle speeds.
Do you know what is that red plastic just over the valve when viewed from valve intake manifold? Is that another seal?
Put o-rings on your valve spring compressor T handle to keep it from falling out.
How many miles were on the Acura when the valve seals failed?
I thought once you pull a valve out it won’t ever seat properly again unless lapped or grinded
I have an issue when car been driven on highway for a long time it loses power and revs
Is there a way to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head
I mean there valve seals how is Honda going to make the best ones I’ll bet you anything there almost all the same don’t let the name fool you.
Same process for Honda S600? Do I have to remove the head to replace valve stems?
Why would you use lineman pliers?
This dude and his annoying want for a Honda partnership we get it bro Honda parts are the best lol no there not and the price is a joke
Note to self, leave valve seals............ Got it!
It's better to do it correctly then a dumb way.
I am replacing the valves on a TL Type s, 3.2, timing belt snapped and bent a few valves. should I lap the new ones or is it ok to R&R them?
Always best to lap new valves to existing heads
Thanks for posting.
Thanks Bundy
who has the tool
Great video. I am new to learning about this type of repair. Is this what is supposed to be done when there is low compression? I'm just trying to understand better because I am experiencing low compression in 5 cylinders and no compression in cylinder 4. There was only a compression test done and not a leak down test. I am kinda getting the run around on what to do. One mechanic said to replace the whole engine... but um.. not really cost effective right now. I also found that there are warped cylinder heads, should I replace the cylinder heads? I am not really sure if the head gasket blew, or if it's the control module that is not allowing it to start. The belts are all in tack, starter, alternator is working, new battery, ignition coils, and spark plugs. I am just trying to maybe save a few thousand dollars. So frustrating. I would greatly appreciate a little insight! Thank you. Take care.
First Off, I feel you pain Angie. My wife's 08 pilot started dropping engine codes, and when I checked, it had no compression on Cyl 6. And for us, it's fix it, or spend 35$ / day in fuel just to get to work with the F150 lol. Given the current economic climate, NOT ideal to say the least.
So, you have No compression ON 5 CYLINDERS? Or On Cylinder #5 and Cylinder #4 ?If you have No compression on multiple cylinders, your timing may be off. Did you recently do the water pump, cams, tensioner, or timing belt? Any of those would need to have the timing belt off. Maybe the timing skipped a few teeth.
In short, There are 3 timing marks that need to be referenced and matched exactly. While the Cam's are each static referenced to their cam gear, they have no reference to ; 1. The positions of the opposite cam, and 2. The position of the crankshaft. The marks are as follows:
The Bank 1 cam, only has a single timing mark, and it needs to be lined up with it's 12 o'clock reference. It can be viewed by gently opening the little rubber flap on the timing cover, about the 12 o'clock position of the cam. This is the REAR bank, numbered left to right as CYL 1, 2, 3. This is NOT the FIRING ORDER, but rather the CYL number.
The face the front (bank 2) cam gear has numbers on of the 'spokes', and can be viewed by gently opening the little rubber flap on the timing cover, about the 12 o'clock position of the cam. So, when Bank 2 CAM (front, cylinders 4, 5, 6 from left to right if looking under the hood) shows a 1 lining up with the timing marks on the cam face and on the 12 o'clock position on the timing cover back, this means that Cyl 1's VALVES SHOULD be at Top Dead Center (TDC) position, meaning fully seated with minor valve lash ( 0.09 - 0.011 intake and 0.012-0.014 exhaust If I recall) CYL 1 TDC is used to SET the timing. The FIRING order if you are curious will be the order the numbers are on the cam. Starting at 1, they will follow each other in order as you rotate the crankshaft clockwise.
The third timing mark is on crank timing gear. There is an ARROW embossed on the rear timing cover 12 o'clock and a matching one on the tooth of the gear. It is not necessarily the tooth that is marked with paint ( if any). I only say this because I thought timing may have been off, but I was referencing a white tooth on the gear. There was actually a smaller dot on the tooth that corresponded to TDC. While this one may be hard to get to, it will tell you if you are off. Timing cover needs to be removed to see it, which means removal of the serpentine belt tensioner, and a bunch of 10mm bolts. Oh yeah, and the Crank pulley. That one takes some force, and if you are just trying to diagnose if it is out of time, there is an easier way to get TDC.
This is how I get to it to #1TDC quick and dirty. With the coils off and the plugs out, observe the cam via the viewing opening on the bank 2 timing cover, while rotating the crankshaft CLOCKWISE with a 19MM socket. You can do this with the plugs in, but you will be fighting the compression in each cylinder as it comes up on it's compression stroke. Watch in the viewing hole for the # 1 to start coming around. Yu can stop rotating once you can visually see the 1, and you are before the timing mark somewhere. Leave it there and get yourself something ling, skinny, rigid and straight. It will need to be long enough for you to put it down the plug hole, into the cylinder, until you touch the piston, ideally with about 6-8 inches or more protruding from the spark plug tube. For this, I used the end of a fishing rod with the rings removed. Flexible enough to get in there, and wont damage the cyl or piston. Once it has bottomed out, put a mark on it where it comes out of the plug tube. This is for reference, so we can see if it is moving up or down. Observe this mark as you rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise. Be sure that the end of the rod won't bottom out or get caught up on anything. Personally, I keep one hand on the rod to feel minor tension, and one on the ratchet to move the crank. When you see the mark has gone up, and will go no further, before it starts going down, this is your TDC. If it is in time, the number one will be lined up on the cam, and the bank one cam will have it's timing mark lined up as well. If you could see the crankshaft timing gear, it would also be lined up. If ANY of these are off, then you are out of time.
The crank timing mark indicates the position of the crank shaft, specifically when the PISTON in Cyl #1 is at the top of it's stroke, TDC. There are 2 crank shaft rotations for each cam rotation ( because 4 strokes yo). Effectively, the block and lower rotating assembly doesn't care if it's an intake stroke or a power stoke ( a downward stroke) or a compression or exhaust stroke. It only knows up, and down. The cams control WHAT stroke it is, by way of actuating the rockers, which push on the valves. The cams get rotated by the crankshaft, by way of the timing belt.
So, IF the timing belt say skipped a tooth because of wear or a bad tensioner maybe, then you can see how the relationship between all 3 elements will be affected, because now when the piston is actually at TDC, maybe the valve hasn't fully closed yet, because it's cam doesn't 'know' that that piston is at TDC. Or maybe it starts closing the intake valve early ( because it started opening it early), and as a result it is leaning the air fuel out in that cyl causing a burnt valve or worse.
So, with each Cyl at TDC, their respective intake and exhaust cam lobes should be under no tension from the valve springs. So the valves should be all the way up, and fully seated, and the rocker arm should be able to move SLIGHTLY. if you can wiggle it, the valve should be closed With the valves closed, the cylinder should hold air.
If you want to check quick and easy for leakdown, now is the time. Pull the Coils and the plugs, and if you have a compressor with a blow gun you can get into the spark plug hole with a rubber tip (bigger then the threads on the plug of course) and blow some air in. Listen for where it is coming from. Listen in the OIL dipstick tube, in the intake ( remove one of the breather hoses or bac lines to check the intake) check the muffler for air. In take is intake valve, exhaust it exhaust valve, somewhere else is another problem. To make it easy, I used a long length of tubing ( snowmobile fuel line actually lol) put one end in my ear, then used the other to probe. Your ear will feel the air even in minute amounts.
In my case, No comp on Cyl6, I had it coming out of Cyl 5's plug hole, and when I plugged that, It came out the PCV vent into the intake. I had a cooked Cyl 6 Exhaust valve.
If they are saying you have a warped head, or headS, then What other symptoms did you have ? Burning coolant? Low coolant levels? An over heated head can twist, and sometimes lead to a crack.
Your next step is to either have a leakdown done to see where you have the compression loss and how bad it is. They will all have SOME leakdown, but so long as they are fairly close they should be good.
@@TheDivergentDrummerso much great information 👏
Been following your Honda J series videos for a long time and this one was very informative and well put together. Thanks for sharing stay well Artie 👍👍👍
There are more coming! Thanks for watching and I hope it helps you save money!
BundysGarage it has many times already Thanks❤️. Artie
*Looks down at his meat hooks*
Yea, I wasn't blessed with small hands either man. But, they can be a help if you don't need to be in tight spaces :P
LOVE the videos man, even if my Odyssey doesn't need any work yet. I watch for at the very least a reference. Thanks for doing the work and the (pain) that is required for putting them up here. There is one video that I actually did use, the OLD video you put up about fuel pumps; mine died at 155K and I was ready to drop the tank till I found your guide.
Keep em rollin' and I'll always be here to keep on watchin'!
Thanks
You're welcome.
No tool to make valve seat removal easier??😎
Not really
I have the same kit. Used it on a 95 honda odyssey after the timing belt broke on the hwy. Bent some valves. Replaced put back together all good. Has 300,000 miles on it now. Only issues now is abs and srs cel on . Spent too much time on it gave up.
A +
Thanks