Tip: mark the old belt at the timing marks (before you remove it) and mark which way the belt faces you, then, on your work bench, stack the the new belt on top the old belt, mark the new belt same as the old .. put new belt on and line up the marks on the belt with those on the sprockets .. works every time.
This is great that you actually had a remove engine to break it down and have a clear display and explanation for setting up the timing belt. Kudos to you sir.
I want to thank you, you saved me a lot of money .honda wants to charge me 1500.to do this job . I bought the kit for about 100.online ,took me about 6hrs .....I find that following your was was the easiest The odyssey runs smoothly and beautiful..thanks again.
No wonders the cams wants to jump on you, You NEVER start the belt on the cam pulleys.. You start from the crankshaft > front cam pulley > water pump > rear cam pulley > tensioner. This way its almost next to impossible to jump the cam.. This is the official Honda Maintenance Manual procedure.
Damn good comment. It's been a while since the last time I replaced a timing belt, so I'm rusty. I always star with the crankshaft, but tried this way instead and you're right, the freaking cams keep on jumping. After many tries, went back with the crankshaft first and didn't had as much trouble, the engine is in the car, that' why. I wish I had read your comment before. Anyways, the belt is finally on, just need to reinstall the tensioner to be done. Thanks for posting the right procedure, it will save many viewers headaches.
It’s a lot easier to understand when the motor is out and completely exposed. I’ll be doing my 07 odyssey in the near future. Currently 80k miles. Thanks for uploading.
Ok. Thanks. I start to see oil leaks from my transmission at the bottom recently. U think I should do a rebuild or just add a stop leak inside the transmission?
I never recommend any products that stop leaks as they never help. In my opinion, they just cause more issues down the road. If you have extra cash do what's right, it will last you in the long run.
this video was as simple and as perfect as any video can be ! I salute you from over in the city of compton it helped out big time you are a great mechanic thank you very much and I look forward to seeing more of your future videos!
I just did mine had to replace the motor mount to it was toast! I started mine from the crank and went counter clockwise so that when you reach the notorious rear cam that loves to jump it can’t move because it’s already got enough tension on both sides once the teeth are on it! I also was taught this trick by a honda tech, you completely leave the tensioner pulley off but close enough to grab it right after wrapping the belt around the rear cam you’ll want to keep it tight by squeezing the belts together that are under the rear cam! Then you can slide the tensioner pulley right in between easier then you’ll have to hold the belt tight and put the tapered bolt in the pulley, so much easier than trying to stretch the belt over the pulley when already installed!
Yeah ok sir, the tensioners take five minutes to compress slowly, like a clock, if you would've bearly put pressure on the vise it turns itself and slightly clicks of oil you can hear like a clock gear, I'm tierd of other mechanics ramming thoughs tensioners inn😑, it's hydraulic and there's lil seals in there your pushing back inside by using force, and later on failure accurs or premature belt failure at a shorter mileage happens or a rough idle and not smooth idle happens in which no one can figure out, but now you know, Ciao Bella*🙋
Thank you George, I was having trouble with the left cam gear moving when trying to wrap the belt tight enough to get it on the tensioner so I followed your method and installed the belt to the crank gear last and it worked great.
The factory repair manual shows that the last point for timing belt install is that left (facing enging from bumper) probably because it jumps like you said. In order it shows crank pulley, tensioner, right cam pulley, water pump, left pulley or "jumper".
Those type of tensioners are known for leaking and failure. Don't reuse it if you don't have too. Buy a timing belt component kit and it will come with everything you need to replace. RockAuto dot com has great pricing on timing belt component kits.
Hey I'm do something like that but the all kit remplace!!! But I have a problem went I pull out the belt!! The crankshaft,Are desynchronized and the crankshaft from below with the top, checke the diagram of the kit and the pistons the synchronise but the bottom of the crankshalft below is more complicated move it !!some buddy can get a tip for that sincronice the cranckshalft whit the pistons
Noe Lopez I totally agree! I used an aftermarket tensioner and went bad after a month. It was making this horrible noise and of course the Wifey wasn’t happy 🤨 Had to buy the OEM tensioner and recheck timing marks for safe measures. One year later., no issues, got another 50k miles until the next timing belt replacement. Now we’re having sliding doors issues 😟 Another project to tackle...
I always like to count the number of belt teeth between sprockets prior so I make sure I don't jump a tooth when tensioning etc. And like the other poster said .. start from the crank pulley so it doesn't jump. Great video... Always nice to refresh before diving into this again.
Excellent video Sir! I have an excellent judge of character and I'm certain you are a good person, with a well deserved and well endowed falace. Good luck with the repairs and God bless America!
I my is Steve and I like the way you explain everything about you the timing Mark and u also take your time too to explain I do like that u must keep it up 👍 I can see that you are a very good mechanic
Hi Mr. Melnik. You are very knowledgeable and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the community. If you were near me in NC, you'd be my mechanic.
hey man I did my timing belt and components recently too. accord 07 v6. Same engine. Took me about 6 - 8 hours all together. First time. I was paranoid and nervous. lol But what does your timing belt sound like now? Just wondering how ours compare. Do you have a slight wooshing sound at all? I can hear it from the eye holes u open to see the timing. Like I open one hole and its def coming from the sprockets. Could just be the air wooshing through the cam sprockets. But anything like that? Sorry for long message. I wish i could pick your brain lol Not many people have done what we have done
Do you have a video to fix the timing because you accidently remove the tensioner removing the cover bolts and the belt got slack and realized it while adjusting but you realized and turned it back before you turned it too far and put the crank shaft back to the point it was at but the cams still look aligned! Help!😩
Amigo una consulta te lo un Honda Legend motor 3.2 V6 año 92, hace poco estuvo en el taller, al momento de armarlo el mecánico hay unas mangueras de succión de aire que salen del camarín que no supo a dónde iban de casualidad tendrás un plano o imágenes a dónde van conectadas todas esas mangueras?
I recently did the timing belt on the wife's 06 Ody. Month later the engine developed this horrible noise metallic sound when idling and couldn't determine where it was coming from and no check engine lights to narrow down the issue. Had to remove the crank pulley bolt and covers for inspection. Found a bad hydraulic tensioner that was not keeping the correct tensiosion. Replaced it with the original Honda brand and problem was solved. Side Note: I will for now on spend the extra money and buy OEM or AISIN to to have that peace of mind.
hey George great video. Ive had a timing belt slip a tooth 3 separate times while simply rolling back in a driveway and just letting the clutch out while in gear (motor off) do you know of a factory bulletin or solution to fix this issue when the motor is inadvertently bumped backwards. I'm thinking the belt slacks up and slips a tooth or two. Anyway, just curious
Wow. Nicely done. Thanks. My engine is making that loud noise from this side. I think its my tensioner. Belts and pumps were replaced 2 years only and also this tensioner. Maybe needs resetting?
Really good video. What do u do if the camshaft sprockets jump back after you slide the belt? I haven't released the tensioner pin. But when I slided the belt the sprockets jumped back, except the crankshaft sprucket. 🙁 That ine still on time.
Thank you my bro! We have a 2010 SH-AWD TL with a faulty Hydraulic Tensioner. I have the replacement but from watching your video I'm going to buy the kit so I can replace the belt and water pump. Now is there a way to JUST replace the tensioner?
I love the video and some of the comments are helpful too which i appreciate. My question is,when i remove the belt,the markings of the gears will be in different areas right? So ill have to turn it and line them up to 12 oclock, before i put the belt and proceed like in the video?
Question for you about the water pump. In a situation when the water pump isn't being removed. If when removing the 3 housing bolts it starts to leak a bit of coolant is that seal permanently broke. Other words once the 3 bolts are back in it is likely it will leak again without new RTV?
Quick question for you. I'm installing a timing belt kit. I pulled my crankshaft pulley off, then pulled the lower TB cover off. The TB Idler pulley had the ball bearings falling out and was completely shot... when I turned the crank to line up the marks, the front cam mark was off about one tooth, and the rear cam was off by about 3 teeth. Can I just remove the TB, manually turn the cams the little bit needed to line up, then reinstall all the pulleys and belt again? The car was running fine, but I think the cam pulleys slipped a few teeth when the idler pulley let go.
So,what happened if one of the sprocket pops/move or even both moves,off the alignment marks,can you simply turn it back to line it up or you need to rotate it so many rounds to line it up?
Hello, if not, I did not set the marks before removing the belt. How to install a new belt correctly. Camshafts according to the marks and crankshaft and put on the belt?
hello George, one question, I have a 2006 accord, it had the classic noise of the tensor as a sewing machine, I changed it and that sound was removed, but now the tensor leaked oil, what could that fault be? why did it leak? the band was placed correctly, so much so that the car worked normally for 15 days.... thank for readme
Friend, do you know if the 2009 Honda Accord 3.5 is interference or non-interference? or as you mechanics know, if there is space in the cylinder so that the piston does not bend the valves in case the timing band breaks, it happened to me a few days ago in my car idling while I was warming it up in the morning. Thank you, blessings.
Very cool to see the engine out to display and you going over the steps. One of the clearest video out there. One question which maybe an obvious question is I’m assuming you crank the crank bolt to line up before starting the job like your video?
George question when re timing and looking for TDC? does the rocker of number 1 on a down position or up position? Please I need confirmation before I put all back together thanks.
Thank you very much. I have to do the timing belt and water pump on my odyssey 06. So I hope I'll get it right. . 1 question. What if one of the pistons shaft turn a little bit ? Do i have to give it a one full spin clockwise. ?
How do you set the timing when the timing belt is already off the car. My son 2006 Honda Accord drive belt rubbed a hole in the timing cover and the drive belt broke and made its way inside the timing cover and wrapped around the timing belt my son not knowing any better cut the timing belt to get the drive belt off so now I have no idea how to set the timing marks on the two cams sprocket without the belt being on.
What's the easiest way to find TDC on piston #2, I believe this engine was cranked over a few times with the broken belt and I'm not sure where it's at. Should I use a inline spark tester? or a noid test light..
I had an oil leak on a 2003 Acura 3.2 Tl.. I replaced the oil filter adapter housing gasket and the oil pan gasket. Still leaked oil. I finally discovered that.there is an o-ring in the area of the water pump, behind the front cover. I feel like this should be replaced every time with a timing belt replacement on honda V-6 engines.
I never got the new timing belt on. When I was installing it the rear cam move out of position. The right cam and crankshaft are lined up Perfectly. The rear cam line is facing the fire wall. What do I do?
Excellent video! Hope you have a moment to respond to this; 2002 Acura TL. I aligned the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft before removing the old belt and made reference marks on the old belt to coincide with the camshafts and crankshaft positions. Before installing the new belt, I aligned it tooth by tooth with the old belt and transferred the marks to the new belt. The camshaft marks align perfectly with the two camshaft pulleys but the crankshaft mark is one tooth out. I have carefully threaded the belt making sure there is no slack between the front camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley. I have done 5 timing belt replacement on other cars including this one with no issues and I understand the importance of correct timing. I have paused this timing belt replacement until I can figure out the problem. Any suggestions? Thanks
The exhaust sprocket jumped 1 tooth back while I was installing the timing belt on a Honda pilot, how do you adjust it? do you have to remove the valve cover and loosen the cam bolts or just simply turn it clockwise 1 tooth with a wrench
Jon I Got a question for you? My son has a 2006 Honda Accord with a 3.0l engine. His drive belt rubbed a hole in the timing cover so the drive belt broke and wrapped around the timing belt. He cut the timing belt off just to get the drive belt off. So my question to you is how do I set the camshaft marks to get it lined up in time. I have set the timing in the past I just mark the old belt at each timing mark and then mark up my new with the old one that I marked up. But since the belt is already off I don’t know how to go by setting the timing
Thank you George for this great video. A few questions: 1. Besides the belt, is it always necessary to replace the 2 rollers, water pump, and hydraulic tensioner if those components still seem OK? Like if the water pump is not leaking, the bearings do not make noise when spinning them, and if the hydraulic tensioner is not leaking? 2. If you DO recommend changing all those components, is it OK to use one of the many "no name" aftermarket kits on eBay that are much cheaper than OEM kits? What brand kit do you use? 3. Do you have a link to the factory torque specs for all the bolts involved in a T-belt job for a 2008 Odyssey. Including water pump, rollers, tensioner, plastic covers, motor mount, crank bolt, etc. that must be removed to do this job with the engine still in the van. Since you have deep experience doing hundreds of T-belts on these engines I really value your opinion. Thank you.
DO NOT use any timing belt kit other than the one that comes with HONDA OEM Parts. I used some cheap kit made in China and the tensioner leaks and the timing belt broke after 20,000 miles. Engine is a heavy paper weight now. False economy to use a cheap kit. DON'T MAKE the same mistake I did.
Chris Gacek, HI chris, I am also a mechanic with several years of experience. to answer your question, it is 100% recommended to replace the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, water pump and belt tensioner when doing this very important preventative maintenence procedure. You can use cheaper parts but keep in mind that you get what you pay for. I always stick to OEM for this particular item due to the sesitive nature of what this timing belt does. Any failure of any component can result in a damaged engine. As far as torque specs, you can buy a manual on disk with all the info for your car. Good Luck!
I have been checking timing belts for my replacement belt after the last replacement one broke after 15K miles and destroyed the valves and here is what I found.Gates/Unitta make the original Honda belt. Unitta and Gates are apparently the same company although the original belt says Unitta. However they have been fighting counterfeiters out of Asia for some time now so if you buy their belts anywhere dealer, eBay or Amazon be warned you might be getting a fake belt. Gates has on their website a way you can check if the belt if genuine by entering a number found of the box the belt came in. I myself being paranoid about getting a fake belt have bought 5 different belts on eBay and some are thicker than others. I even bought the Blue gates belt you mention and is thinner than another Honda OEM belt I bought. At this time I will only trust a belt that passes the website code verification on the Gates website to feel safe.
Its better to replace out the idlers, tensioner and water pump. Eventually those parts will go bad and you wont want to take all of this back apart again just to replace a water pump. Also i always use the oem kits for the timing belt.
If the engine was in a car, you'd never get this job done doing it the way you did it. As others have said, crankshaft first, then cams, last is tensioner. Hopefully people read the comments before trying this job on their own cars.
Thank You, George. I have a question. I have 2004 Honda Pilot and have an error code 0341 which is the CMP sensor.My mechanic says that I have to remove the timing belt in order to removed the CMP sensor, however other mechanics saythat it is not necesary to remove the timing belt could You please tell me what to do? I am confused also between the CKP sensor
When the car is out of time is there a special tool the whole the camshaft in the exhaust gears to prevent them from shifting while adding tension on the Belt
How do you know if your compression stroke or exhaust stroke when setting up on number 1 cylinder isn't that important to be on the compression stroke?
I was just wondering the same. I just recently did this a few days ago. Even tried to set #1 TDC and set them like he said. Started the car and it runs like shit. I think the timing is off.
Fantastic video, straight forward. How likely am I to experience bent valves on my 2005 honda odyssey 3.5 jseries? My belt was replaced 18 months ago and I'm doing the job again. Not sure why the belt failed, as the engine didn't seem to show any signs of malfunction or issues. Just drove one day and jumped on the Express Way, while sitting in traffic the van just shut off and didn't want to start again. Low and behold had to get a tow back home. Any feedback would be gratefully appreciated. Helpppppp!
I did everything as you show in this video. unfortunately the engine didn't set. I have no idea what is the problem. there is no compression could you tell me please some idea thank you.
I have a quick question, if I've already replace my timing belt 2 weeks ago but my water pump is bad. Do I still need to replace the belt or just the pump? Any help will be highly appreciate d!! Thanks boss!!!
I have a 2008 TL (3.2) with 175,000 miles on it and I'm not sure if the timing belt had been changed. I've got the kit and am going to pull the covers ti see if someone marked it indicating it's been changed other than the carfax saying recommended maintenance was done. How many miles have you seen from a J32A3 engine?
Had mine done at the dealership at 87,000 miles 06 Honda Ridgeline. I hope it was done right. Some of there work really stinks. I had a new battery installed from the same people. They put a screw between the clamp and battery terminal because it was a loose fit. They should have put on a new clamp. Also the 2 J bolts holding the battery were rusted so they just stuck them back on. One was broken in half so I had a loose battery. Some of the dealerships work is really bad. Be Aware of dealerships.
you need 3 vice grips,, a Jack place jack lifting motor,, take out motor support completely off use the Jack before to help and keep it til done and placing motor support on,, get the belt place it on one sprocket pullet tight place one vice grip on the back 10 o'clock and front 2 o'clock the vice grip, when done one side jump to the next sprocket pulling the belt tight,,, then loosen up the front bearing all the way out but not loose were it will come out ,,bearing closer to the bumpber,, then place the belt on back side on back bearing pulling it tight,, only place vise grips if you need to at 2oclock ,,then place spinner on bottom line up with lock pin install pin lite,, pull out spinner out wards as you can but not coming out,, then grab and pull belt place it on spinner the last part is the front bearing it should slide on quick without hassle if not use a a thick medium long screw driver wedge it on forcefully pulling it in,, after that is on,,, if not on then you have to do it again or order a belt a little longer not to much,,, then pull pin out of tensioner,, rotate it twice just in case I would use parge vise grips to rotated,,for timing not to slip,,, once that's on install motor mount,, lower Jack after that
Tip: mark the old belt at the timing marks (before you remove it) and mark which way the belt faces you, then, on your work bench, stack the the new belt on top the old belt, mark the new belt same as the old .. put new belt on and line up the marks on the belt with those on the sprockets .. works every time.
David Hollfelder thank you sir
What if I took it off and didn't mark it? What should I do?
@@romainecrawford2720 pray to god
What if its stretched? Haven't tried it yet but just a what if question.
i was just thinking why no car vids ever talk about doing this. but better to explain the right way before the shortcuts lol
This is great that you actually had a remove engine to break it down and have a clear display and explanation for setting up the timing belt. Kudos to you sir.
This video is amazing, seeing you do this on an engine outside of the car really makes sense. Excellent video quality too.
The best thing I have found this has helped me more than anything but know how my cars would run if it wasn't for youtub
I want to thank you, you saved me a lot of money .honda wants to charge me 1500.to do this job . I bought the kit for about 100.online ,took me about 6hrs .....I find that following your was was the easiest
The odyssey runs smoothly and beautiful..thanks again.
hello did the online timing kit last until now? i heard they fail pretty quick
No wonders the cams wants to jump on you, You NEVER start the belt on the cam pulleys..
You start from the crankshaft > front cam pulley > water pump > rear cam pulley > tensioner. This way its almost next to impossible to jump the cam..
This is the official Honda Maintenance Manual procedure.
skirmich hey
I could kiss you, but i won't. Here's a thumbs up instead.
Someone buy this guy a fxxking Beer ! Good info to know.
You are Teaching the Teacher .
Damn good comment. It's been a while since the last time I replaced a timing belt, so I'm rusty.
I always star with the crankshaft, but tried this way instead and you're right, the freaking cams keep on jumping.
After many tries, went back with the crankshaft first and didn't had as much trouble, the engine is in the car, that' why.
I wish I had read your comment before. Anyways, the belt is finally on, just need to reinstall the tensioner to be done.
Thanks for posting the right procedure, it will save many viewers headaches.
even i know that and im a newbie to replacing timing belts. you want the slack on the tensioner
It’s a lot easier to understand when the motor is out and completely exposed. I’ll be doing my 07 odyssey in the near future. Currently 80k miles. Thanks for uploading.
WOW, people like you should be teachers, many videos I watch they skip out on important detail, but you explain every little detail thank you.
Maybe one day I will. Lol. I am glad it helped you out.
+George Melnik what's the recommended mileage before u replace your timing belt and water pump?
100,000 miles
Ok. Thanks. I start to see oil leaks from my transmission at the bottom recently. U think I should do a rebuild or just add a stop leak inside the transmission?
I never recommend any products that stop leaks as they never help. In my opinion, they just cause more issues down the road. If you have extra cash do what's right, it will last you in the long run.
this video was as simple and as perfect as any video can be ! I salute you from over in the city of compton it helped out big time you are a great mechanic thank you very much and I look forward to seeing more of your future videos!
I just did mine had to replace the motor mount to it was toast! I started mine from the crank and went counter clockwise so that when you reach the notorious rear cam that loves to jump it can’t move because it’s already got enough tension on both sides once the teeth are on it! I also was taught this trick by a honda tech, you completely leave the tensioner pulley off but close enough to grab it right after wrapping the belt around the rear cam you’ll want to keep it tight by squeezing the belts together that are under the rear cam! Then you can slide the tensioner pulley right in between easier then you’ll have to hold the belt tight and put the tapered bolt in the pulley, so much easier than trying to stretch the belt over the pulley when already installed!
Yeah ok sir, the tensioners take five minutes to compress slowly, like a clock, if you would've bearly put pressure on the vise it turns itself and slightly clicks of oil you can hear like a clock gear, I'm tierd of other mechanics ramming thoughs tensioners inn😑, it's hydraulic and there's lil seals in there your pushing back inside by using force, and later on failure accurs or premature belt failure at a shorter mileage happens or a rough idle and not smooth idle happens in which no one can figure out, but now you know, Ciao Bella*🙋
The tensioner rapidly adjusts on the fly. Five minutes my ass!
Thank you George, I was having trouble with the left cam gear moving when trying to wrap the belt tight enough to get it on the tensioner so I followed your method and installed the belt to the crank gear last and it worked great.
The factory repair manual shows that the last point for timing belt install is that left (facing enging from bumper) probably because it jumps like you said. In order it shows crank pulley, tensioner, right cam pulley, water pump, left pulley or "jumper".
Pretty simple and straight forward, I'd always use a new tensioner if fitting a new belt.
Those type of tensioners are known for leaking and failure. Don't reuse it if you don't have too. Buy a timing belt component kit and it will come with everything you need to replace. RockAuto dot com has great pricing on timing belt component kits.
BundysGarage yup ...no way I'd reuse anything... especially the bearings
Hey I'm do something like that but the all kit remplace!!! But I have a problem went I pull out the belt!! The crankshaft,Are desynchronized and the crankshaft from below with the top, checke the diagram of the kit and the pistons the synchronise but the bottom of the crankshalft below is more complicated move it !!some buddy can get a tip for that sincronice the cranckshalft whit the pistons
BundysGarage b
Im a Honda Tech and Dont be Cheap!! Buy the OEM parts! Trust Me
Noe Lopez I totally agree! I used an aftermarket tensioner and went bad after a month. It was making this horrible noise and of course the Wifey wasn’t happy 🤨 Had to buy the OEM tensioner and recheck timing marks for safe measures. One year later., no issues, got another 50k miles until the next timing belt replacement. Now we’re having sliding doors issues 😟 Another project to tackle...
0:02 .....damn, that engine is clean 👍🏼
I always like to count the number of belt teeth between sprockets prior so I make sure I don't jump a tooth when tensioning etc.
And like the other poster said .. start from the crank pulley so it doesn't jump.
Great video... Always nice to refresh before diving into this again.
Excellent video Sir! I have an excellent judge of character and I'm certain you are a good person, with a well deserved and well endowed falace. Good luck with the repairs and God bless America!
I my is Steve and I like the way you explain everything about you the timing Mark and u also take your time too to explain I do like that u must keep it up 👍 I can see that you are a very good mechanic
Hi Mr. Melnik. You are very knowledgeable and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the community. If you were near me in NC, you'd be my mechanic.
Great video, thanks! I wish it was that easy with the engine in the car :) Took me two days in my 2008 MDX.
hey man I did my timing belt and components recently too. accord 07 v6. Same engine. Took me about 6 - 8 hours all together. First time. I was paranoid and nervous. lol But what does your timing belt sound like now? Just wondering how ours compare. Do you have a slight wooshing sound at all? I can hear it from the eye holes u open to see the timing. Like I open one hole and its def coming from the sprockets. Could just be the air wooshing through the cam sprockets. But anything like that? Sorry for long message. I wish i could pick your brain lol Not many people have done what we have done
Amazing job
@@alexandercahoulan6583 amigo tendrás el manual de este motor acura mdx 3.7 2007???
For the tensioner your pin you can use a small allen wrench
Lol stopped watching when i seen a cam get routed first. Smhh
Well done mate. I just done my 2002 Acura cl. Water pump Replacement timing belt it's all good its runing now thanks
I never marked anything before taking the old belt off, just wondering as long as the 3 marks are lined up and TDC, everything should be fine no?
Hello what belt and others details you used for change only honda? Maybe you can recommend a good quality another brand 😅 thx
Do you have a video to fix the timing because you accidently remove the tensioner removing the cover bolts and the belt got slack and realized it while adjusting but you realized and turned it back before you turned it too far and put the crank shaft back to the point it was at but the cams still look aligned! Help!😩
Amigo una consulta te lo un Honda Legend motor 3.2 V6 año 92, hace poco estuvo en el taller, al momento de armarlo el mecánico hay unas mangueras de succión de aire que salen del camarín que no supo a dónde iban de casualidad tendrás un plano o imágenes a dónde van conectadas todas esas mangueras?
Thanks, it helped me understand it better. I have a Honda Pilot and it seems that it has problems with 2 cylinders, what do you recommend I do?
I recently did the timing belt on the wife's 06 Ody. Month later the engine developed this horrible noise metallic sound when idling and couldn't determine where it was coming from and no check engine lights to narrow down the issue. Had to remove the crank pulley bolt and covers for inspection. Found a bad hydraulic tensioner that was not keeping the correct tensiosion. Replaced it with the original Honda brand and problem was solved. Side Note: I will for now on spend the extra money and buy OEM or AISIN to to have that peace of mind.
Looks pretty straight forward. I think I might need to do this on a 3.5
What’s the concerns about it ? Do you notice when driving ?
Man I wish my J-series engine was this clean!
hey George great video. Ive had a timing belt slip a tooth 3 separate times while simply rolling back in a driveway and just letting the clutch out while in gear (motor off) do you know of a factory bulletin or solution to fix this issue when the motor is inadvertently bumped backwards. I'm thinking the belt slacks up and slips a tooth or two. Anyway, just curious
Thank you it took me like 3 trying to get the timing right and thankd to this video it took me less then 5 min , great video
Wow. Nicely done. Thanks. My engine is making that loud noise from this side. I think its my tensioner. Belts and pumps were replaced 2 years only and also this tensioner. Maybe needs resetting?
Really good video. What do u do if the camshaft sprockets jump back after you slide the belt? I haven't released the tensioner pin. But when I slided the belt the sprockets jumped back, except the crankshaft sprucket. 🙁 That ine still on time.
Nailed it my friend you’re genius
Good job , I learn something from this video
I'm about to do two of these. Made my life easier thanks man.
Thank you my bro! We have a 2010 SH-AWD TL with a faulty Hydraulic Tensioner. I have the replacement but from watching your video I'm going to buy the kit so I can replace the belt and water pump. Now is there a way to JUST replace the tensioner?
I don't know why you get 28 dislikes, but that was clear as it can get, thanks for this video Brother
+GSHeverything _27
thanks
I love the video and some of the comments are helpful too which i appreciate. My question is,when i remove the belt,the markings of the gears will be in different areas right? So ill have to turn it and line them up to 12 oclock, before i put the belt and proceed like in the video?
Question for you about the water pump. In a situation when the water pump isn't being removed. If when removing the 3 housing bolts it starts to leak a bit of coolant is that seal permanently broke. Other words once the 3 bolts are back in it is likely it will leak again without new RTV?
Thanks George for sharing this.. I wish I would have found this video first.. very helpful!
Quick question for you. I'm installing a timing belt kit. I pulled my crankshaft pulley off, then pulled the lower TB cover off. The TB Idler pulley had the ball bearings falling out and was completely shot... when I turned the crank to line up the marks, the front cam mark was off about one tooth, and the rear cam was off by about 3 teeth. Can I just remove the TB, manually turn the cams the little bit needed to line up, then reinstall all the pulleys and belt again? The car was running fine, but I think the cam pulleys slipped a few teeth when the idler pulley let go.
So,what happened if one of the sprocket pops/move or even both moves,off the alignment marks,can you simply turn it back to line it up or you need to rotate it so many rounds to line it up?
Hello, if not, I did not set the marks before removing the belt. How to install a new belt correctly. Camshafts according to the marks and crankshaft and put on the belt?
very professional, can't be better explain don't need anything else to replace an set the timing belt thank you
hello George, one question, I have a 2006 accord, it had the classic noise of the tensor as a sewing machine, I changed it and that sound was removed, but now the tensor leaked oil, what could that fault be? why did it leak? the band was placed correctly, so much so that the car worked normally for 15 days.... thank for readme
Friend, do you know if the 2009 Honda Accord 3.5 is interference or non-interference?
or as you mechanics know, if there is space in the cylinder so that the piston does not bend the valves in case the timing band breaks, it happened to me a few days ago in my car idling while I was warming it up in the morning. Thank you, blessings.
Very cool to see the engine out to display and you going over the steps. One of the clearest video out there.
One question which maybe an obvious question is I’m assuming you crank the crank bolt to line up before starting the job like your video?
Is it the same for Honda Pilot 2008 ?
? After 2 full turns how many more times you have to rotate the engine so the timming marks line up
Do you have the set the timing marks before you change the timing tensioner on 2006 Acura MDX
George question when re timing and looking for TDC? does the rocker of number 1 on a down position or up position? Please I need confirmation before I put all back together thanks.
Thank you very much. I have to do the timing belt and water pump on my odyssey 06. So I hope I'll get it right. . 1 question. What if one of the pistons shaft turn a little bit ? Do i have to give it a one full spin clockwise. ?
Show how to do it with the engine in the car what to see ur skills
Brother you have explained very well I am also a master of these vehicles
How do you set the timing when the timing belt is already off the car. My son 2006 Honda Accord drive belt rubbed a hole in the timing cover and the drive belt broke and made its way inside the timing cover and wrapped around the timing belt my son not knowing any better cut the timing belt to get the drive belt off so now I have no idea how to set the timing marks on the two cams sprocket without the belt being on.
Is there any difference with a 2014 3.5 L engine?
What's the easiest way to find TDC on piston #2, I believe this engine was cranked over a few times with the broken belt and I'm not sure where it's at. Should I use a inline spark tester? or a noid test light..
The key on the bottom gear you said you have to be very careful not to loose it,how it stay in there how you secure the key in ,thanks nice video,
Really good straight forward...Any Torque specs available? Thanks
I had an oil leak on a 2003 Acura 3.2 Tl.. I replaced the oil filter adapter housing gasket and the oil pan gasket. Still leaked oil. I finally discovered that.there is an o-ring in the area of the water pump, behind the front cover. I feel like this should be replaced every time with a timing belt replacement on honda V-6 engines.
Great tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
I never got the new timing belt on. When I was installing it the rear cam move out of position. The right cam and crankshaft are lined up Perfectly. The rear cam line is facing the fire wall. What do I do?
very heipful to see it done outside of car
Excellent video!
Hope you have a moment to respond to this;
2002 Acura TL. I aligned the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft before removing the old belt and made reference marks on the old belt to coincide with the camshafts and crankshaft positions.
Before installing the new belt, I aligned it tooth by tooth with the old belt and transferred the marks to the new belt.
The camshaft marks align perfectly with the two camshaft pulleys but the crankshaft mark is one tooth out.
I have carefully threaded the belt making sure there is no slack between the front camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley.
I have done 5 timing belt replacement on other cars including this one with no issues and I understand the importance of correct timing.
I have paused this timing belt replacement until I can figure out the problem.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Which you can buy to hold the left sprocket from jumping
what would happen i9f i reversed cams in a j series engine. would it stilck work??
The exhaust sprocket jumped 1 tooth back while I was installing the timing belt on a Honda pilot, how do you adjust it? do you have to remove the valve cover and loosen the cam bolts or just simply turn it clockwise 1 tooth with a wrench
Hello Eric. Have you ever got an answer for your question?
I liked the video in general, I will change it myself
When you take the motor mount out does the engine need support from the bottom or will it be fine?
I've done about 7 or 8 of these timing belt jobs on Hondas after a while it's not that bad
Jon I Got a question for you? My son has a 2006 Honda Accord with a 3.0l engine. His drive belt rubbed a hole in the timing cover so the drive belt broke and wrapped around the timing belt. He cut the timing belt off just to get the drive belt off. So my question to you is how do I set the camshaft marks to get it lined up in time. I have set the timing in the past I just mark the old belt at each timing mark and then mark up my new with the old one that I marked up. But since the belt is already off I don’t know how to go by setting the timing
thank you for the two turn for timeing mark
i'ts the same job and for Acura RDX 2.3L but has only one camshaft?
What's the difference between the 3.5 V6 in the 2009 honda accord and the 3.5 V6 in the 2012 acura TL
Going to be doing mine soon. Never done it before but have watched several vids. Any tips appreciated
How do you realign the timing marks if your belt breaks?
Thank you George for this great video. A few questions:
1. Besides the belt, is it always necessary to replace the 2 rollers, water pump, and hydraulic tensioner if those components still seem OK? Like if the water pump is not leaking, the bearings do not make noise when spinning them, and if the hydraulic tensioner is not leaking?
2. If you DO recommend changing all those components, is it OK to use one of the many "no name" aftermarket kits on eBay that are much cheaper than OEM kits? What brand kit do you use?
3. Do you have a link to the factory torque specs for all the bolts involved in a T-belt job for a 2008 Odyssey. Including water pump, rollers, tensioner, plastic covers, motor mount, crank bolt, etc. that must be removed to do this job with the engine still in the van.
Since you have deep experience doing hundreds of T-belts on these engines I really value your opinion.
Thank you.
DO NOT use any timing belt kit other than the one that comes with HONDA OEM Parts. I used some cheap kit made in China and the tensioner leaks and the timing belt broke after 20,000 miles. Engine is a heavy paper weight now. False economy to use a cheap kit. DON'T MAKE the same mistake I did.
Chris Gacek, HI chris, I am also a mechanic with several years of experience. to answer your question, it is 100% recommended to replace the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, water pump and belt tensioner when doing this very important preventative maintenence procedure. You can use cheaper parts but keep in mind that you get what you pay for. I always stick to OEM for this particular item due to the sesitive nature of what this timing belt does. Any failure of any component can result in a damaged engine. As far as torque specs, you can buy a manual on disk with all the info for your car. Good Luck!
I have been checking timing belts for my replacement belt after the last replacement one broke after 15K miles and destroyed the valves and here is what I found.Gates/Unitta make the original Honda belt. Unitta and Gates are apparently the same company although the original belt says Unitta. However they have been fighting counterfeiters out of Asia for some time now so if you buy their belts anywhere dealer, eBay or Amazon be warned you might be getting a fake belt. Gates has on their website a way you can check if the belt if genuine by entering a number found of the box the belt came in. I myself being paranoid about getting a fake belt have bought 5 different belts on eBay and some are thicker than others. I even bought the Blue gates belt you mention and is thinner than another Honda OEM belt I bought. At this time I will only trust a belt that passes the website code verification on the Gates website to feel safe.
Its better to replace out the idlers, tensioner and water pump. Eventually those parts will go bad and you wont want to take all of this back apart again just to replace a water pump. Also i always use the oem kits for the timing belt.
Sam Steptoe race
Hi do you know a link for the cam lock for a j series honda engine, I can’t find one anywhere and I’m having a real tuff time doing this by myself
If the engine was in a car, you'd never get this job done doing it the way you did it. As others have said, crankshaft first, then cams, last is tensioner. Hopefully people read the comments before trying this job on their own cars.
Thank You, George. I have a question. I have 2004 Honda Pilot and have an error code 0341 which is the CMP sensor.My mechanic says that I have to remove the timing belt in order to removed the CMP sensor, however other mechanics saythat it is not necesary to remove the timing belt could You please tell me what to do? I am confused also between the CKP sensor
When the car is out of time is there a special tool the whole the camshaft in the exhaust gears to prevent them from shifting while adding tension on the Belt
Right pully is half-a-tooth past TDC. That kind of info makes all the difference in the world.
what tool can u get to hold the cams? I don't have friends.
What if the any of the top marks don’t match ..? Do you remove the belt and single Vandely move each one …
Are all honda 3.5 crank timing mark above the harmonic balancer keyway?
Excellent quality video .thanks
So a stupid question but on a 2012 acura 3.7, does the crank bolt loosen counterclockwise?
What is the different between the 3.7 engine and the 3.5, in terms of mechanical for 2008 mdx and odessy
How do you know if your compression stroke or exhaust stroke when setting up on number 1 cylinder isn't that important to be on the compression stroke?
I was just wondering the same. I just recently did this a few days ago. Even tried to set #1 TDC and set them like he said. Started the car and it runs like shit. I think the timing is off.
Fantastic video, straight forward. How likely am I to experience bent valves on my 2005 honda odyssey 3.5 jseries? My belt was replaced 18 months ago and I'm doing the job again. Not sure why the belt failed, as the engine didn't seem to show any signs of malfunction or issues. Just drove one day and jumped on the Express Way, while sitting in traffic the van just shut off and didn't want to start again. Low and behold had to get a tow back home. Any feedback would be gratefully appreciated. Helpppppp!
I did everything as you show in this video. unfortunately the engine didn't set. I have no idea what is the problem. there is no compression could you tell me please some idea thank you.
If those marks didn’t line up what should you do?
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO GOD BLESS U BRO..
U welcome. Thanks for your support.
I have a quick question, if I've already replace my timing belt 2 weeks ago but my water pump is bad. Do I still need to replace the belt or just the pump? Any help will be highly appreciate d!! Thanks boss!!!
Just a pump
I have a 2008 TL (3.2) with 175,000 miles on it and I'm not sure if the timing belt had been changed. I've got the kit and am going to pull the covers ti see if someone marked it indicating it's been changed other than the carfax saying recommended maintenance was done. How many miles have you seen from a J32A3 engine?
Had mine done at the dealership at 87,000 miles 06 Honda Ridgeline. I hope it was done right. Some of there work really stinks. I had a new battery installed from the same people. They put a screw between the clamp and battery terminal because it was a loose fit. They should have put on a new clamp. Also the 2 J bolts holding the battery were rusted so they just stuck them back on. One was broken in half so I had a loose battery. Some of the dealerships work is really bad. Be Aware of dealerships.
you need 3 vice grips,, a Jack place jack lifting motor,, take out motor support completely off use the Jack before to help and keep it til done and placing motor support on,, get the belt place it on one sprocket pullet tight place one vice grip on the back 10 o'clock and front 2 o'clock the vice grip, when done one side jump to the next sprocket pulling the belt tight,,, then loosen up the front bearing all the way out but not loose were it will come out ,,bearing closer to the bumpber,, then place the belt on back side on back bearing pulling it tight,, only place vise grips if you need to at 2oclock ,,then place spinner on bottom line up with lock pin install pin lite,, pull out spinner out wards as you can but not coming out,, then grab and pull belt place it on spinner the last part is the front bearing it should slide on quick without hassle if not use a a thick medium long screw driver wedge it on forcefully pulling it in,, after that is on,,, if not on then you have to do it again or order a belt a little longer not to much,,, then pull pin out of tensioner,, rotate it twice just in case I would use parge vise grips to rotated,,for timing not to slip,,, once that's on install motor mount,, lower Jack after that
Are does good engines the 3.7 i just got one an acura 09????
Amazing vídeo thanks a Lot from México city