im a mechanic and i pulled the heads on a honda ridgeline (same 3.5L motor ) over a year ago and this video was a helpful refresher for putting the heads back on this week thanks
This is the best video I see. Start from the beginning to the cylinder head. Other just either ends in valve gasket, or start from the middle, so that you do not know how to disconnect or remove parts when the engine is still on the car.
Nice and rare review of Honda's electrical connectors. In rust belt areas they're even worse. The brackets rust and the male half of the connectors can become really stubborn. Especially when they are at the end of a long bracket because when you pry, pull, or tap, the bracket just bends and the connector doesn't budge. There are special pliers available for removing the female half of the plug (where you used bent nose pliers) but I've never seen anything that's made to help remove the bracket mounted male half of the connect.
This is great information thanks for sharing it 😁 I still feel like the hardest part was getting the electrical harness off the engine 😂 I hope I don’t have to do it again for a long time. Have a great week and thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Great job getting those heads off, it did not look easy. You did not have a lot of space to work in the engine bay. I cannot believe how difficult some of those electrical connections can be, you would have thought that car companies would find a way to make it easier not more difficult. Great jacket
@@Live-Life-Freely Only thing to consider is how to flush it out of the block after if it doesn’t work. Otherwise let us know if it works. I hope it works because it is a lot of work to rebuild. Thanks for watching. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Great video! Shows everyone some of the pita's they will run into. Your comment in the beginning was off putting. I've been a tech for a long time now and have many customers who bring their vehicles to me for service. A few of my customers are tradesmen and even though I consider myself a jack of all trades, my specialty being auto repair, often times I will call on them if I need anything beyond something simple like a switch or a faucet . My point being is that I trust they will do their job better than I would and not cut any corners. Also, It keeps me from having to research the internet's consensus on the "right way" to do a specific job. Plus it's a good thing to patronize each other's business. That statement also makes me wonder what it is you do for a living because, as they say, the people who are quick to point out others shortcomings usually do so in order to hide their own. Maybe you had some concrete done by the lowest bidder that was a bad experience? You seem like a decent dude so I may be wrong
Thanks! In response to the off putting comment. Yes I have had over the years had bad experiences with business that will take the easy way and quick to take your money. So I may be a little biased unfortunately. Up here in Minnesota in my opinion they charge way too much and take advantage of people. If it offends you I apologize. Just wanted to show my project and how it turned out. Have a great Mother’s Day 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff I can see where that can be frustrating for sure. I’ve only been to a shop once in my life for anything but tires so I can’t say I’ve had many bad experiences.
😂👍I should have showed how I organized it on the workbench so it makes installation easy. I also watched my own video clips to help. Thanks for your positive feedback and have a great day 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Hi Mitch great video. Man your the man. I'd never tackle anything like that. My truck is trying to do the same thing. Wow 😳... I'm looking forward to the rebuild... the dealer did an upgrade to my computer it took them a couple of months to figure that they hooked up a couple if things wrong. In the mean time I had the worst mileage.... cheers on the Sunny Side keep looking up.
Thanks BJ. I am waiting for the Heads to come back from the Machine shop. I wish I could do that part myself😂 I think if you gave yourself enough time to get it done that you could do it. The Dealer wanted $2600 just for labor so I figured I could save some money and do it myself. Thanks for checking out the video Have a great weekend😁👍🚜💨🍳
Awesome video! Trying to pull the front head off my 06 MDX at the moment. Did I miss you unhooking the alternator, or does it stay put? And I can't, for the life of me, get the fuel rail/injectors to come off. Any reason I can't just unhook the fuel quick connect and leave it there? Only taking off the front head as it seems to be using coolant but only giving a misfire on cylinder 5 and 6, guessing it has the common front head gasket failure. Thanks!
Thanks 😁 I didn’t have to take the alternator out but I did have to unhook the electrical wires. The fuel rail has 2 small bolts for each rail and the injectors will pop out with the rail. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Great, thanks! I got the 2 bolts, but even when trying to pry with a screwdriver the injectors just won't let go. 239k miles and 17 years are working against me I'm afraid.
Hit it a few times with Kroil, now letting it sit overnight. Worst case I'll unhook the quick connect and leave the rail attached. Thanks for the help!
Is it possible you give the answer on my questions? Description of the engine problem-2007 Acura MDX. 220,000km(137,000 mile) 1. At first the problem happened with engine light on and 4wheel drive warning. Seemed I feel cold start with oil smell and little engine oil consumption. Drive to the shop and checked with code of P0304 (and another code, related to emissions). Change all spark plugs. It was two years ago. But codes were still on and problems did not really eliminate. Oil still consumed more (before never add oil between oil change cycle) 2. Last year, engine light flash on and car cannot over 80 km/h( 50 mi/h). If try to speed up, car vibrated and refused to run faster. Took to the same shop. Replaced all spark plugs and two injectors. Worked normally. Engine oil still consumed. 3. Problem occurred again two months later. Same code (P0304). Took to another shop. Replaced all spark plugs again and problem stopped. 4. Drove to another province (1500 km away). Added engine oil on the way. About 1-2 liters per 200 km. The problem happened again. Took it to a shop. The mechanic checked and only replaced #4 cylinder spark plug. When I showed him the old six spark plugs from the previous shop, he believed it is the problem is on #4 cylinder. Others were good. 5. Prepare another bottle of engine oil and spark plug tools, I drove back. Added engine oil regularly. 6. Same code occurred again after arriving home. Replaced spark plug a few times, about 150 km-200km each time when engine light came (means also P0304 code occurred). 7. Engine light flashed again. Change spark plug is no longer effective. Checked with a pressure gauge and found the pressure lower than 80 PSI (less than half of others).
@@MJADoingStuff The reply and video are the best reply. Thanks a lot. I asked local companies around. They do not do this kind of job due to long time waiting parts and repair. Overhaul has to be done through DIY.
Thank you. My bracket connecting to engine stripped when I installed. I find it is a 14mm bolt. But another guy replies me it is a 17 mm bolt (OEM product). As my timing belt was replaced by a shop years ago, I believe it was the time the mechanic (also the owner same time) who changed my original one. Maybe he damaged it when he did the work and replaced with an aftermarket part. How to find some reliable people to do the work is a tough work.
I had the same issue. The dealer who did the timing belt overtightened the bottom bolt on the engine mount. The bolt broke loose like normal but then immediately got tight. I worked it back and forth, and after several hours was able to get the bolt out. I was sure I was going to snap it off. The bolt came out with the aluminum threads on the last 3/8 " of the bolt. I noticed all the bolts in the timing cover were over tightened also, in fact one came out very hard and had aluminum threads on the end of it. All the work on this car had been done by the dealer when my brother owned it.
That bolt is a M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 85 mm long. I ordered a new bolt 90mm long. I am hoping to get to good threads with the longer bolt.... but not too long so that it doesn't bottom out. Otherwise I will repair with TIME-SERT Bolt Kit M10 x 1.25 Part # 1012C. Note that the top bolts are longer than this bottom bolt.
Very impressive Mitch. I do a fair amount of DIY but that one is DEFINITELY above my skill level. I could probably get it all APART, but then....🤷🤷🤷 Kudos! Oh, and that IS a great jacket!
At what point did you remove the front motor mount I've been trying to figure out a quick and safe way to do that. I'm talking about the mount that is below the power stearing pump.
I'm impressed Mitch, great video, I would not have the patience to do this...nor the knowledge LOL...Can't wait to see part 2, I'm curious how long it took for the complete job. Have a great weekend MJA 🙋🏼♂🍳
Thanks Luc😁It’s taking more time because of the camera work but so far about 15hrs not including editing. Thanks for checking out the video you have a great weekend too 😁👍🚜💨🍳🙋🏻♂️
I appreciate your style of teaching and sharing information in this video. At 10:55 in the video you show two connectors. Could you share how you pressed, pulled, slid tabs or clips to remove the connectors. Thanks.
Can I ask a question: on your video, around 16:52, you mention about " remove the thermostat housing". You just say " that was pretty tough". How can you do that? There is two nuts (12mm) for the each side of the engine heads (front and rear). The top one is easy. The lower one is blocked with different metal pipes. I find it is impossible to access with a rachet wrench. I can insert the wrench socket on the nut. But there is no space to put an extension. Without extension, Only rachet cannot access the socket from the top. Thanks for your reply.
I am sorry for skipping that part I remember it was a tough one. I will have to go back into my original videos and get back to you it may take a while but I will get back to you as soon as I check 😁
I have seen the pistons removal without removing the engine from the car. How many miles on the engine? Have you ever adjusted the valves? Is it burning oil? I don’t enough information to help😁 I would do more checking before you take it apart. Hope that helps 😁👍
Thanks Ross😁 good one! I am looking forward too, still waiting on the heads to come back. I wish I could do more tractor videos but this is what I am doing right now. Thanks for checking out the video😁👍🚜💨🍳
Sorry to ask you again. Do you know the three bolts torque spec for the upper engine mount to the engine body (at 13:04 you remove the upper bolt and at 13:28 remove the lower bolt). I cannot find the spec on this No-OEM manual. Thanks. These are 14mm bolts.
Hi I have another question related indirectly with this topic. My car engine has problem of #4 cylinder misfire and high oil consumption. Check with air pressure and find it is only 1/3 of other cylinders. I open the engine head and find one of the #4 exhaust valve seat lost a piece (about 2mmX4mm) around valve seat. It is obviously the cause of misfire. But another question comes out: What is the reason cause the high engine oil consumption? The valve stem seal seems not so bad. It is the only place engine oil can enter into the exhaust system. This cylinder has some damaged traces along the axle direction, but I add some engine oil into the cylinder (after engine head removed), the oil can still kept inside without any leak. So I do not know how the oil was burning so fast. Any advice? Thanks.
Does the head have a crack? I believe it can suck oil through the valve stem with low compression due to a vacuum. Hope this helps. I’m sorry but this video was for entertainment purposes I am not a professional mechanic.😁
I spray the plugs with silicone spray kind of helps getting them lose when they been on there for years. The tie-rap holders for wires I just cut all those and replace them with new ones you can get online. Also want to put everything in a tray away from the engine so it can't fall down inside. I had to take heads off a few times on these both times because spark plug socket boot got stuck down between the tube and the plug on different cars. Don't ever use any other spark plug socket except for the one made for long tube type plugs. They are one piece socket no rubber at all I have also seen spark plug socket get stuck between the tube and the socket when they pull it back the extension comes off now you have a socket stuck in there. The oil tubes are not replaceable according to Honda have to replace the entire head try to replace the tube they leak.
I did have to replace one from a salvage yard and then took both to machine shop called Northern Cylinder Head @ 3118 162nd Ln NW Andover, MN 55304. They did an Amazing Job still running perfect. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Thanks! Great videos! I have a 2004 Pilot that is losing coolant and not leaking anywhere - 175,000 miles. I used a block tester kit and the cooling system is positive for exhaust gasses in the cooling system. I'm going go for it since the car runs great and is like new. I have done the timing belt a couple times on my 2002 Honda Odyssey... once because it was time and once because the replacement water pump started leaking after about 80,000 miles. I saw the Minnesota plates... I'm in Coon Rapids so Andover is next door.@@MJADoingStuff
It is bad that in this city shops do not do overhaul. They just say check it and decide. But I know it cannot be fixed with just simply change some parts outside , because pressure of #4 is too low. It is hardware problem. The mechanic who just change one plug outside of my province said could be valve problem, which is relatively better and easier. He said it could be problems of other things. I think what he said is reasonable.
So I have a 2004 Honda Pilot that was losing coolant, and had developed an oil leak. I did a test to detect exhaust in the cooling system and it was positive. I tore it all down and found my issue was a loose head bolt. It was loose because the threads in the engine block failed. This car was purchased new by my brother, so we know the whole history. The head had never be apart...so apparently the threads just gave out over 20 years of heating and cooling cycles. I'm not sure what i am going to do next. The head is most likely warped being that the corner rear head bolt was not "in service", and I would need to repair the damaged engine block threads. There is a thread repair tool (Time-sert 7220), but it costs $560. I will be about $2000 into it, assuming head work, and the car has 175,000 mile on it. The car is in great shape otherwise. By the way how this all started was the car developed an oil leak, the dealer replaced the rear valve cover gasket, but leak persisted, then it started getting codes for missfire on all cylinders - dealer checked coils and replace all spark plugs. The car ran perfect. My brother was tired of spending money at the dealer and unable to figure it out so he bought a new car and I bought the pilot from him for trade value. I replaced the tiny springs in the end of the coil packs... that seemed to take care of the codes, but now I am thinking because we drove every day not as much coolant leaked into the cylinder to cause a code vs when my brother owned it (they are retired) and only drove it several time per week. Anyway It started loosing noticeable amounts coolant after I owned it for 6 months. It still ran very well, but the coolant useage became much greater. It never overheated, but I notice the cooling fan would run after I shut the car off... in the winter time in Minnesota... I checked coolant and it was about a quart low.
My advice if you think you have a head gasket issue would be to first pull the valve covers and check to see if the head bolts are tight. If any are loose bolts you have bad threads in the engine block that will need to be repaired. I wish I would have done this before tearing it all apart, since it is expensive to repair the threads in the engine block. I had a bad head bolt and it was noticeable as soon as I took the valve cover off... the cover was covered with milky white looking sludge and I could turn the bolt with my fingers.
That is a bummer but if you can do the work then you are still ahead of the game. They wanted $2600 just for labor to do a head gasket repair. Good luck with your vehicle. Thanks for watching.😁👍🚜💨☀️
I think there's a certain class of people that don't take shortcuts. But if you watch the Just Rolled In channel, you wouldn't BELIEVE the number of shortcuts people take. Sometimes it makes sense to pay someone.
I'm halfway through a head removal on an 03 pilot, looking up videos to try to find motivation to finish the last half today. Oof, I cringed when you pulled the throttle body.
I know my thumb was close to pushing the throttle plate😂 I got lucky everything is still working perfectly. I changed the oil after 500 miles just to start fresh. Put about 4K miles on Happy with it so far. 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff no i mean the one you had coolant come out of. I think its just oil from the cylinder head gasket failure though? The engine was dry of coolant
5:00 oh brother..... just take the power steering pump off, its 2 bolts, and then take off the bolt for the knock sensor..... its also not hard to get the runner off once you do that And once the front runner is off, you have full access to that knock sensor anyway
I try to remove the front engine head. In order to complete it, I have to remove the right side coolant connector from the front head and the rear head. By doing this, the coolant connector can be moved aside and the head can be taken out. Problem is the both bolts at the bottom of each flange (front and rear) are hard to access. Would you please guide me how to do this? The following is my record. ua-cam.com/users/shortsixTpoyoHVkg
Have you tried a 1/4inch drive socket and longer extension to reach it from a angle or under the plastic electrical harness or loosening the harness get it out of the way? 😁
Jesus man you are the ONLY FREAKING PERSON that actually posted a full removal video to the head. This is all I needed. Thank you
I noticed that when I decided to make the video 😁 thanks for checking out the video.🚜💨🍳
im a mechanic and i pulled the heads on a honda ridgeline (same 3.5L motor ) over a year ago and this video was a helpful refresher for putting the heads back on this week thanks
I also have a detailed installation video if you haven’t seen it. Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
This is the best video I see. Start from the beginning to the cylinder head. Other just either ends in valve gasket, or start from the middle, so that you do not know how to disconnect or remove parts when the engine is still on the car.
Thanks 😁 I did the best that I could.
Nice and rare review of Honda's electrical connectors. In rust belt areas they're even worse. The brackets rust and the male half of the connectors can become really stubborn. Especially when they are at the end of a long bracket because when you pry, pull, or tap, the bracket just bends and the connector doesn't budge. There are special pliers available for removing the female half of the plug (where you used bent nose pliers) but I've never seen anything that's made to help remove the bracket mounted male half of the connect.
This is great information thanks for sharing it 😁 I still feel like the hardest part was getting the electrical harness off the engine 😂 I hope I don’t have to do it again for a long time. Have a great week and thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
I also like seeing all the bolts come out - appreciation for this - just got a 2003 MDX and she is eating TONS of coolant
Thanks 😁 I tried to make it as detailed as possible without making a 3+hour video 😂good luck with your project 👍🚜💨🍳
This is a very good informative video. Thank you! This definitely helped understand the process for the Jseries engines
Thanks😁 glad you enjoyed it. Have a great week
Very clear video,nice replacement ,my honda mrv have water spilage too at radiator its coming out
@@PascualParungao-x4y Thanks for checking out the video. Hopefully you can get your Honda fixed.😁👍🚜💨☀️
Thanks so much for the post. I really appreciate the detail on the electrical connectors.
Your Welcome 😁👍 Thanks for watching and Have a great Year 🚜💨☀️
I’m not sure that the illustration of removing the heads is quite the same thing Mitch 🤣🤣🤣.
That was hilarious 😂😂😂
😂 I don’t know what I was thinking 🤔 🤷🏻♂️ Thanks for checking out the video and have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
A most excellent video. I like your editing style. Thank you for this video!
Thanks 😁👍 have a great New Years !!!🚜💨🎆☀️
Great job getting those heads off, it did not look easy. You did not have a lot of space to work in the engine bay. I cannot believe how difficult some of those electrical connections can be, you would have thought that car companies would find a way to make it easier not more difficult. Great jacket
Thanks Joseph 😁I think the electrical connection will go together way faster. thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀
Hi Great News. I did it today, with your encourage and guide. Remove more stuff and access horizontally. Thanks.
Awesome!!!😁👍
Great video. I just found many people having success with Blue Devil, I'm going to give it a try and if it doesn't work then I'll tackle this work.
@@Live-Life-Freely Only thing to consider is how to flush it out of the block after if it doesn’t work. Otherwise let us know if it works. I hope it works because it is a lot of work to rebuild. Thanks for watching. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Great video! Shows everyone some of the pita's they will run into. Your comment in the beginning was off putting. I've been a tech for a long time now and have many customers who bring their vehicles to me for service. A few of my customers are tradesmen and even though I consider myself a jack of all trades, my specialty being auto repair, often times I will call on them if I need anything beyond something simple like a switch or a faucet . My point being is that I trust they will do their job better than I would and not cut any corners. Also, It keeps me from having to research the internet's consensus on the "right way" to do a specific job. Plus it's a good thing to patronize each other's business. That statement also makes me wonder what it is you do for a living because, as they say, the people who are quick to point out others shortcomings usually do so in order to hide their own. Maybe you had some concrete done by the lowest bidder that was a bad experience? You seem like a decent dude so I may be wrong
Thanks! In response to the off putting comment. Yes I have had over the years had bad experiences with business that will take the easy way and quick to take your money. So I may be a little biased unfortunately. Up here in Minnesota in my opinion they charge way too much and take advantage of people. If it offends you I apologize. Just wanted to show my project and how it turned out. Have a great Mother’s Day 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff I can see where that can be frustrating for sure. I’ve only been to a shop once in my life for anything but tires so I can’t say I’ve had many bad experiences.
It’s crazy how you can take everything out so easy. But then reverse to remember what goes where later 😅 good memory 😂
😂👍I should have showed how I organized it on the workbench so it makes installation easy. I also watched my own video clips to help. Thanks for your positive feedback and have a great day 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Hi Mitch great video. Man your the man. I'd never tackle anything like that. My truck is trying to do the same thing. Wow 😳... I'm looking forward to the rebuild... the dealer did an upgrade to my computer it took them a couple of months to figure that they hooked up a couple if things wrong. In the mean time I had the worst mileage.... cheers on the Sunny Side keep looking up.
Thanks BJ. I am waiting for the Heads to come back from the Machine shop. I wish I could do that part myself😂 I think if you gave yourself enough time to get it done that you could do it. The Dealer wanted $2600 just for labor so I figured I could save some money and do it myself. Thanks for checking out the video Have a great weekend😁👍🚜💨🍳
Thanks man keep posting videos you so a good job teaching
Thank you for the kind words. Life is busy right now but I will be posting again when I get some free time. Thanks for watching. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Wow! Great job! Very impressive
@@euonymus1980 Thanks for the kind words. Hope it helps in some way. Thanks for watching
Awesome video! Trying to pull the front head off my 06 MDX at the moment. Did I miss you unhooking the alternator, or does it stay put? And I can't, for the life of me, get the fuel rail/injectors to come off. Any reason I can't just unhook the fuel quick connect and leave it there? Only taking off the front head as it seems to be using coolant but only giving a misfire on cylinder 5 and 6, guessing it has the common front head gasket failure. Thanks!
Thanks 😁 I didn’t have to take the alternator out but I did have to unhook the electrical wires. The fuel rail has 2 small bolts for each rail and the injectors will pop out with the rail. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Great, thanks! I got the 2 bolts, but even when trying to pry with a screwdriver the injectors just won't let go. 239k miles and 17 years are working against me I'm afraid.
@@03viperguy maybe spray some WD40 on Orings and wiggle before pulling 🤔
Hit it a few times with Kroil, now letting it sit overnight. Worst case I'll unhook the quick connect and leave the rail attached. Thanks for the help!
Is it possible you give the answer on my questions? Description of the engine problem-2007 Acura MDX. 220,000km(137,000 mile)
1. At first the problem happened with engine light on and 4wheel drive warning. Seemed I feel cold start with oil smell and little engine oil consumption.
Drive to the shop and checked with code of P0304 (and another code, related to emissions). Change all spark plugs. It was two years ago.
But codes were still on and problems did not really eliminate.
Oil still consumed more (before never add oil between oil change cycle)
2. Last year, engine light flash on and car cannot over 80 km/h( 50 mi/h). If try to speed up, car vibrated and refused to run faster.
Took to the same shop. Replaced all spark plugs and two injectors.
Worked normally. Engine oil still consumed.
3. Problem occurred again two months later. Same code (P0304). Took to another shop. Replaced all spark plugs again and problem stopped.
4. Drove to another province (1500 km away). Added engine oil on the way. About 1-2 liters per 200 km. The problem happened again. Took it to a shop. The mechanic checked and only replaced #4 cylinder spark plug. When I showed him the old six spark plugs from the previous shop, he believed it is the problem is on #4 cylinder. Others were good.
5. Prepare another bottle of engine oil and spark plug tools, I drove back. Added engine oil regularly.
6. Same code occurred again after arriving home. Replaced spark plug a few times, about 150 km-200km each time when engine light came (means also P0304 code occurred).
7. Engine light flashed again. Change spark plug is no longer effective. Checked with a pressure gauge and found the pressure lower than 80 PSI (less than half of others).
Unfortunately #4 is not happy. Sounds like you have to take it apart to find out what is going on. Sorry I can’t help 😁
@@MJADoingStuff The reply and video are the best reply. Thanks a lot. I asked local companies around. They do not do this kind of job due to long time waiting parts and repair. Overhaul has to be done through DIY.
Thank you. My bracket connecting to engine stripped when I installed. I find it is a 14mm bolt. But another guy replies me it is a 17 mm bolt (OEM product). As my timing belt was replaced by a shop years ago, I believe it was the time the mechanic (also the owner same time) who changed my original one. Maybe he damaged it when he did the work and replaced with an aftermarket part. How to find some reliable people to do the work is a tough work.
I had the same issue. The dealer who did the timing belt overtightened the bottom bolt on the engine mount. The bolt broke loose like normal but then immediately got tight. I worked it back and forth, and after several hours was able to get the bolt out. I was sure I was going to snap it off. The bolt came out with the aluminum threads on the last 3/8 " of the bolt. I noticed all the bolts in the timing cover were over tightened also, in fact one came out very hard and had aluminum threads on the end of it. All the work on this car had been done by the dealer when my brother owned it.
That bolt is a M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 85 mm long. I ordered a new bolt 90mm long. I am hoping to get to good threads with the longer bolt.... but not too long so that it doesn't bottom out. Otherwise I will repair with TIME-SERT Bolt Kit M10 x 1.25 Part # 1012C. Note that the top bolts are longer than this bottom bolt.
Very impressive Mitch. I do a fair amount of DIY but that one is DEFINITELY above my skill level. I could probably get it all APART, but then....🤷🤷🤷
Kudos!
Oh, and that IS a great jacket!
Thanks Chris I still got to put it back together but I’m going to take my time and not have any pocket parts😂 thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
At what point did you remove the front motor mount I've been trying to figure out a quick and safe way to do that. I'm talking about the mount that is below the power stearing pump.
11:50 is when I removed the passenger side engine mount. Hope this helps and thanks for watching😁👍🚜💨☀️
I'm impressed Mitch, great video, I would not have the patience to do this...nor the knowledge LOL...Can't wait to see part 2, I'm curious how long it took for the complete job. Have a great weekend MJA 🙋🏼♂🍳
Thanks Luc😁It’s taking more time because of the camera work but so far about 15hrs not including editing. Thanks for checking out the video you have a great weekend too 😁👍🚜💨🍳🙋🏻♂️
@@MJADoingStuff Keep up the great work buddy 👍🏻🙋🏼♂
I appreciate your style of teaching and sharing information in this video. At 10:55 in the video you show two connectors. Could you share how you pressed, pulled, slid tabs or clips to remove the connectors. Thanks.
Unfortunately I can’t remember. Hopefully you figured it out. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Can I ask a question: on your video, around 16:52, you mention about " remove the thermostat housing". You just say " that was pretty tough". How can you do that? There is two nuts (12mm) for the each side of the engine heads (front and rear). The top one is easy. The lower one is blocked with different metal pipes. I find it is impossible to access with a rachet wrench. I can insert the wrench socket on the nut. But there is no space to put an extension. Without extension, Only rachet cannot access the socket from the top.
Thanks for your reply.
I am sorry for skipping that part I remember it was a tough one. I will have to go back into my original videos and get back to you it may take a while but I will get back to you as soon as I check 😁
I looked at the original videos with no luck I must have turned off the camera because it took so long to get it out. I apologize 😁👍
Nice job, Mitch. You are going to save a bunch of money doing it yourself. hope it goes together easier than coming apart. Later.
Thanks Mech😁I hope so too. The good thing is the wiring harness snaps together easily. Have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
I am working on to remove the engine head for my MDX 2007. #4 Cylinder pressure is too low (
I have seen the pistons removal without removing the engine from the car. How many miles on the engine? Have you ever adjusted the valves? Is it burning oil? I don’t enough information to help😁 I would do more checking before you take it apart. Hope that helps 😁👍
Thank you sir! I was stuck and you helped!
Your welcome 😁👍
Well done! Was that a metric or imperial adjustable wrench? Haha. Good job and nice tear down. Looking forward to seeing it go back together.
Thanks Ross😁 good one! I am looking forward too, still waiting on the heads to come back. I wish I could do more tractor videos but this is what I am doing right now. Thanks for checking out the video😁👍🚜💨🍳
Sorry to ask you again. Do you know the three bolts torque spec for the upper engine mount to the engine body (at 13:04 you remove the upper bolt and at 13:28 remove the lower bolt). I cannot find the spec on this No-OEM manual. Thanks. These are 14mm bolts.
I believe they are 40-45 ft-lbs
Hi I have another question related indirectly with this topic. My car engine has problem of #4 cylinder misfire and high oil consumption. Check with air pressure and find it is only 1/3 of other cylinders. I open the engine head and find one of the #4 exhaust valve seat lost a piece (about 2mmX4mm) around valve seat. It is obviously the cause of misfire. But another question comes out: What is the reason cause the high engine oil consumption? The valve stem seal seems not so bad. It is the only place engine oil can enter into the exhaust system. This cylinder has some damaged traces along the axle direction, but I add some engine oil into the cylinder (after engine head removed), the oil can still kept inside without any leak. So I do not know how the oil was burning so fast. Any advice? Thanks.
Does the head have a crack? I believe it can suck oil through the valve stem with low compression due to a vacuum. Hope this helps. I’m sorry but this video was for entertainment purposes I am not a professional mechanic.😁
I spray the plugs with silicone spray kind of helps getting them lose when they been on there for years. The tie-rap holders for wires I just cut all those and replace them with new ones you can get online. Also want to put everything in a tray away from the engine so it can't fall down inside. I had to take heads off a few times on these both times because spark plug socket boot got stuck down between the tube and the plug on different cars. Don't ever use any other spark plug socket except for the one made for long tube type plugs. They are one piece socket no rubber at all I have also seen spark plug socket get stuck between the tube and the socket when they pull it back the extension comes off now you have a socket stuck in there. The oil tubes are not replaceable according to Honda have to replace the entire head try to replace the tube they leak.
Thanks for sharing your experience you have lots of great tips 😁👍 have a great week 🚜💨☀️
Did you get your new head from a salvage yard? What machine shop did you use?
I did have to replace one from a salvage yard and then took both to machine shop called Northern Cylinder Head @ 3118 162nd Ln NW Andover, MN 55304. They did an Amazing Job still running perfect. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Thanks! Great videos! I have a 2004 Pilot that is losing coolant and not leaking anywhere - 175,000 miles. I used a block tester kit and the cooling system is positive for exhaust gasses in the cooling system. I'm going go for it since the car runs great and is like new. I have done the timing belt a couple times on my 2002 Honda Odyssey... once because it was time and once because the replacement water pump started leaking after about 80,000 miles. I saw the Minnesota plates... I'm in Coon Rapids so Andover is next door.@@MJADoingStuff
I like “cousin David” he is my favorite.
😂👍Thanks for checking out the video Frank🚜💨☀
It is bad that in this city shops do not do overhaul. They just say check it and decide. But I know it cannot be fixed with just simply change some parts outside , because pressure of #4 is too low. It is hardware problem. The mechanic who just change one plug outside of my province said could be valve problem, which is relatively better and easier. He said it could be problems of other things. I think what he said is reasonable.
Sounds like it but what did the spark plug look like? That could show a lot to.
So I have a 2004 Honda Pilot that was losing coolant, and had developed an oil leak. I did a test to detect exhaust in the cooling system and it was positive. I tore it all down and found my issue was a loose head bolt. It was loose because the threads in the engine block failed. This car was purchased new by my brother, so we know the whole history. The head had never be apart...so apparently the threads just gave out over 20 years of heating and cooling cycles. I'm not sure what i am going to do next. The head is most likely warped being that the corner rear head bolt was not "in service", and I would need to repair the damaged engine block threads. There is a thread repair tool (Time-sert 7220), but it costs $560. I will be about $2000 into it, assuming head work, and the car has 175,000 mile on it. The car is in great shape otherwise.
By the way how this all started was the car developed an oil leak, the dealer replaced the rear valve cover gasket, but leak persisted, then it started getting codes for missfire on all cylinders - dealer checked coils and replace all spark plugs. The car ran perfect. My brother was tired of spending money at the dealer and unable to figure it out so he bought a new car and I bought the pilot from him for trade value. I replaced the tiny springs in the end of the coil packs... that seemed to take care of the codes, but now I am thinking because we drove every day not as much coolant leaked into the cylinder to cause a code vs when my brother owned it (they are retired) and only drove it several time per week. Anyway It started loosing noticeable amounts coolant after I owned it for 6 months. It still ran very well, but the coolant useage became much greater. It never overheated, but I notice the cooling fan would run after I shut the car off... in the winter time in Minnesota... I checked coolant and it was about a quart low.
My advice if you think you have a head gasket issue would be to first pull the valve covers and check to see if the head bolts are tight. If any are loose bolts you have bad threads in the engine block that will need to be repaired. I wish I would have done this before tearing it all apart, since it is expensive to repair the threads in the engine block. I had a bad head bolt and it was noticeable as soon as I took the valve cover off... the cover was covered with milky white looking sludge and I could turn the bolt with my fingers.
That is a bummer but if you can do the work then you are still ahead of the game. They wanted $2600 just for labor to do a head gasket repair. Good luck with your vehicle. Thanks for watching.😁👍🚜💨☀️
Why was it losing coolant?
It was leaking between the steel valve guide and the aluminum head on the number four cylinder intake valve. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Did you relieve the fuel pressure first or no?
No because I never disconnected the fuel lines just popped out the injectors and moved them plus rail out of the way😁👍🚜💨🍳
I just bought one that lost its timing and probably bent valves, is jt normal that it is smoking when i get it to start (after tons of cranking)?
Our Pilot smoked and steamed from a bad valve guide on the #4 intake valve. So it could but that is not normal that is bad. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Thanks for you video🙏🏽
No problem!!! Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
You don't have to remove the lower intake?? I fucking hate everyone guide book out there. Wish I had seen this before I started this job
Yeah it’s a lot easier to get to the bolt after and also gives you something grab on to. 😁
So where did you get the good head from?
Salvage yard for $100 then took it to the machine shop. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
I think there's a certain class of people that don't take shortcuts. But if you watch the Just Rolled In channel, you wouldn't BELIEVE the number of shortcuts people take. Sometimes it makes sense to pay someone.
Thanks for the channel suggestion I just subscribed crazy stuff😂 thanks for checking out the video Have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
I'm halfway through a head removal on an 03 pilot, looking up videos to try to find motivation to finish the last half today. Oof, I cringed when you pulled the throttle body.
I know my thumb was close to pushing the throttle plate😂 I got lucky everything is still working perfectly. I changed the oil after 500 miles just to start fresh. Put about 4K miles on Happy with it so far. 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Why do you line up the timing before you remove the head? To seat the valves?
Just so I know where it is when I put it back together. Hopefully that makes sense thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@11:32 oil came out of that plug 😢 what does that mean??
If you are talking about the green plug/sensor switch then you need to replace it should be easy fix. Hope that helps 😁👍
@@MJADoingStuff no i mean the one you had coolant come out of. I think its just oil from the cylinder head gasket failure though? The engine was dry of coolant
The spark plug like oily, dark. covered with a kind of carbon.
🤔
5:00 oh brother..... just take the power steering pump off, its 2 bolts, and then take off the bolt for the knock sensor..... its also not hard to get the runner off once you do that
And once the front runner is off, you have full access to that knock sensor anyway
03+ honda Js are all pretty much the same...
😂👍 I know now learn the hard way is my way of living. Thank for letting me know and watching. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Hello..good job..how long it need to do the whole job?
Thanks 😁👍 It took 3 weeks 2-3 hours a day. I had to wait 1 week before the Machine Shop. 🚜💨🍳
👍👍👍
Thanks😁👍🚜💨☀️
I try to remove the front engine head. In order to complete it, I have to remove the right side coolant connector from the front head and the rear head. By doing this, the coolant connector can be moved aside and the head can be taken out. Problem is the both bolts at the bottom of each flange (front and rear) are hard to access.
Would you please guide me how to do this? The following is my record.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsixTpoyoHVkg
Have you tried a 1/4inch drive socket and longer extension to reach it from a angle or under the plastic electrical harness or loosening the harness get it out of the way? 😁
I have overheated engine, can the block itself go bad or not?
It depends how hot. But yes you would have to check if it cracked the block. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️