I bought timing belt from Amazon and it ropped 1 months later !!! Guys I did preventive maintenance for prevent valve damage and after change belt it happen couse not original belt .. it sucks!!
I watched alot of videos regarding the j^ series engine and I gota tell you your videos are the best. clear and very simple to follow. I am just about to put my heads back on but since its a 2007 model, it requires different torque. Thanks Mitch
Thank you very much for the kind words. I wish I could show more steps in the video but that would be 3 hours long and I don’t think people would watch 😂 Can I ask how many miles are on your engine? Mine failed at only 151K🥲 Thanks for checking out the video😁have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Hey man I just want to say this video was a life saver. I bought a 2007 honda pilot on Facebook marketplace at market value with a blown head gasket etc. i decided to not spend the 3500-4000 bucks with a mechanic and decided to watch your two videos to solve the problem myself. So thank you 🤙🏼
You’re welcome😁👍 Thanks for the kind words. My 2005 has been running great ever since the repair. It is my daily driver and a great all around vehicle. Thanks for watching both videos 🚜💨☀️
I also overheated engine replaced the front gasket of the head but it still does not run smoothly I will change the second one I want to ask the engine block and can suffer or not?
Thanks Luc 😁I appreciate that. I tried the chapters for the first time I hope it will save time if someone that is looking for a specific part. I will be doing more tractor stuff soon just got a bunch of repairs lately🤔Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🙋🏻♂️
Very cool. The way I look at it, regardless of how involved a repair is, by taking my time, not getting frustrated, watching videos like yours, it’s gonna be a solid repair. Thanks for putting this online 👍
That sound you heard on the start up sound like the power steering pump sucking a little air in the line before it had fluid go through it. Very common on these engines. My 08 Oddesy made the same sound when doing the timing belt a few months ago. Doing the valve cover gasket tomorrow at 190,000 and the engine is strong as ever. I love the J 35 series engine as I believe with regular maintenance they are bulletproof.
@@danielrowe2174 The steel valve guide on the #4 cylinder had a coolant leak between the cast aluminum on the intake port and was leaking into the cylinder. I was already that far in so I just replaced both heads and did a valve job. 😁
The service manual (at least for my 2010 j35a7) says to replace that special idler bolt. I know that people, including professional Honda techs, often don't replace bolts that service manual says to replace but I can never get comfortable not replacing them myself.
Great Video, at 20:30 the Cam Lobes operate in a oil bath, not pressure fed so your instinct is correct. That little bit of oil assured lubrication on start up to the Cam lobes. 4:53 Notice how much sludge/varnish buildup is in the front valve cover compared to the rear valve cover. It's a weak point in the PCV system evacuating the crankcase IMHO. I had to replace both cams and a couple of rocker arms at about 260K miles on my 10 MDX. I'm at 287,70+ now. Looking at correcting the PCV system. Again great video, I'm sure that was a job by itself. I see you have a boat, great fun..... ua-cam.com/video/-Pa8_Jkk1wc/v-deo.html
Thanks 😁 I was surprised to see no Cam bearings when I had it apart🤔 one day I will get a parts washer 😂 I could have done a better job at cleaning up the valve covers. This is our daily driver so had to get it back on the road ASAP.😵💫 We live in Minnesota and I was told that you must get a boat to fit in😂 Good to hear Your MDX is still on the road. I do have to say I was happy that Honda used more metal parts compared to other Manufacturers. Thanks for watching 🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff " I was happy that Honda used more metal parts compared to other Manufacturers." That's one of the main reasons these engines last. Plastic parts just don't like heat cycling and they don't last. BMW, great engineers, great performance but they went to plastic everywhere under the hood and ruined their reputation for long lasting cars they had for decades. What a shame. I noticed you run Synthetic, good move, I run Amsoil now but ran M1 for 100K+ miles. Splitting hair when you get to top tier oils. Amsoil ATF Signature oil is the best for your trans I would suggest. Again great work and stay safe out there.
@@robertjackson7590 I agree I just sold my 2011 335i Xdrive because of all the plastic crap and second water pump at 90K miles. BMW makes strong engines then ruin them with plastic dressing 😂 Have a great weekend.
FYI, lithium grease degrades most rubbers and plastics. Silicone based lubricants is the one to be used if using for installing orings or other rubbers. New engine oil can be used too to install orings and seals.
Thank you for checking out both videos😁I know it wasn't tractor related but things keep braking around here 😂I do have Tractor Stuff coming soon. Have a good one B Hall 😁👍🚜💨☀
Hey, I just wanna say thanks again for the way u made the video💪! I went from not knowing a single thing about cars, to completely rebuilding my heads on my 2004 honda pilot! U made me go for it🤝
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video and saved some money doing it yourself. These older model Honda’s are nice to work on because of the metal parts. Nowadays everything is plastic and needs replacing. Have a great weekend. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Thanks for the kind words Mike 😁I think with the crazy vehicle prices I had no choice but to fix it. The dealership wanted $2600 for just labor🤯the other cool part is I got some new tools. Have a good one 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Nice video! I'm doing a 2003 Pilot. Looks like you are an electrician... I have 3 sets of those same blue handled Klein dikes. They are practically indestructible! Sub'd!
Thanks. I would consider myself a jack of all trades. I have done many main and sub panels in my time. All passed inspection. I am a believer of having the right tools for the job. And your right about the Klein dikes they’re awesome. Thanks for subscribing and watching. Have a great day 😁👍🚜💨☀️.
Your preference I do it out of habit. I feel it seals the first time and it has always worked for me in the past. So short answer would be yes. Hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff thank you. One more question, i lost the back bushing for the serpentine belt tensioner. Do i have to have that or fine without in your opinion?
You were right, Mitch!.... This is about the MDX I mentioned above. I finally decided to just pull the other unaffected cylinder as well and will rebuild it together with Bank2 (bent #4 intake valves). What made me decide to do that was after checking the seals and O-rings on bank2, almost all are nearing end of life: rigid, plastic like feel instead of rubberized. These won't last 50k miles or at-least as long as the new ones. Plus, will take the opportunity to do valve mating surface reconditioning. The difficult part was loosening the nuts holding the cat converter to the head. My hands won't even fit in there; almost decided to just bring down the whole engine-subframe assembly. As the new parts delivery is delayed for like 1-2 weeks extra, this gives me more than enough time to measure things against factory spec and also clean things up. The Bank2 cylinder head by the way turned out ok. No measurable warping anywhere and even all valve guides were within spec. The bent #4 intake valves was all got affected by the timing belt breaking. Thanks , Mitch!
You’re welcome 😁 did you watch the removal video? I pulled the head with catalytic converter connected together. Glad you decided to pull both heads. Have a great week 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff Yeah, I did... However, on the MDX (not sure about Pilot) there is another bracket near the 3 bolt of the primary exhaust pipe holding the cat down to the engine block. And it can only be removed after removing the primary exhaust pipe + front sub-frame stiffener and support + intermediate shaft. If I do that I'm basically just 2-3 steps away of removing the whole engine-subframe assembly. Since, a buddy borrowed my mini lift long-term, that won't be feasible until next spring. Anyhow, after some building up a series of mini socket extensions (and some arm and hand scratches), I was finally able to remove the nuts. Assembly it seems would be a bit easier as I removed the cat studs from the head. More power to you, Mitch.
@@Nio_by_Sakuji Yeah I remember that bracket on the Pilot it was a short 2 bolt bracket on the bottom part of the motor and rear converter it was very light room to work. Sounds like you got it handled. It will be well worth all the labor you put in when it is done. 😁👍
I installed it using the instructions in the kit. Everyone has their own opinion of doing things plus the old one had some on it. Thanks for watching.😁👍
The service manual calls for rtv behind the gasket, in the groove. If you think you know better Japanese engineers in a multi billion dollar company, then youre pretty arrogant and ignorant.
I saved a lot 😁 local shop wanted $2600 just for labor. So I had no choice but to do it myself. It is still running great after over 2k miles we are happy so far. Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Dude rtv on the water pump gasket is a bad idea. The gasket works just fine when the water pump bolts are torqued down properly. Rtv can cause the gasket to malfunction and create leaks down the road.
I had to find a used repairable one and went ahead and had both heads pressure tested and the valves redone with new valve stem seals. They came back from the machine shop looking like new. Thanks for watching both videos 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff Thanks for the head's up. Looking at 2008 Pilot right now that has an overheating problem. Either a bad head gasket or a bad head. I can handle the head gasket(s) job , but if I have to find heads for it then it's not worth the investment for me.
I have another video showing the removal and what I found. I did originally think it was a head gasket but it turns out it was a coolant leak between the steel valve guide and aluminum head on the number 4 intake valve. Not fixable so had to replace. And when your that far into it you might as well finish the job right. Don’t want to say I should have done it after the fact. It is running like brand new now😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff my son’s 2006 Pilot (have had it for 4 months) has a “bad” exhaust valve on cylinder 4. The valve is physically damaged. I imagine there’s multiple bad valves, though. It starts very hard now and wants to stall when engaged in gear. I think I’m better off removing and replacing the engine. We don’t really have time to do a rebuild, but it does look interesting. Maybe I’ll keep the engine and rebuild it? What are the chances that the cats are fouled up now?
thank you so much bro. honda pilot 2007 wont rev pass 300 rpm and getting code for crank and cam shaft senor and one of the heads is running only 2 cylinder, def rebuilding my engine
Your welcome. Well the good news is that Honda built this engine to be repaired not thrown in the trash. So you will be happy when you are not braking plastic parts. Just make sure you use a torque wrench. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Your video is one of or the best one I’ve seen so far…but it’s a little scary at the same time. My story. Im living in my van right now. It’s Covid related…but I’m treating it as a learning experience. I’ve be using my 05 odyssey to do deliveries for Uber Eats to support myself. Three weeks ago. My van started overheating and coolant started disappearing. Turns out I blew a head gasket. I’ve been researching Gasket sealers and diys videos like yours. Ive been hesitant to which one I should attempt. I can’t afford a mechanic and a the highest rated pour in gasket sealer is $70. The sealer may not repair the leak and could also damage the engine. Question? How much minimum of disconnecting will I have to do to get to the head gasket? It’s the part that scaring me. I’ve been parked for 3 weeks now and I need to start working on a solution ASAP. If you read this and reply. Thank you for your time.
Question do you know which cylinder head is bad? Front or rear. Sorry to hear about what your experiencing. Another question what is your mechanical skill level in your opinion. I know your back is against the wall but keep doing what you can to move forward good or bad nothing lasts forever. I will try to answer you when I get more information. 😁👍🚜💨🍳
If it is for the cylinder heads ask the company that is machining the cylinder heads if you need it😁those shims are to make up the difference if they had to take a lot off when re surfacing. Hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff no i mean the shims they added to the timing idler pulleys. Apparently some hondas made a squeek that effected the belt so they came up with a shim..?
I found two hollow pins during the last removing the front engine head. Email to you yesterday. Please see the pictures. Maybe you can figure out where they are from. Thanks
Ha! 😁👍Thanks BB I got some tractor videos coming soon just have to fix a few more things around here. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment 🚜💨🍳
liked this video . im in the middle of doing this on a 3.5 j series engine... and my right head... it not lining up... it skips right over it refuses to land on the line its like a even and odd and only lands on odd........ can you help???
Thanks 😁if you can figure out were to line it up at the intake side corners then it should fall on the dowel pins. Just make sure to use a mirror and double check all the way around to make sure it’s set. Take a break just before you try to set it so you are fresh and ready to getter done. Hope this helps good luck 🍀😁👍🚜💨🍳
thanks but im talking about the wheel that is attached to the cam..... it rides over the mark....they are supposede to be lined up but it skips it is either before or after the mark
@@davidgenereux9540 Oh I get it whoops 😂 as long as you have all the timing marks aligned and the timing belt tight from the rear head to the front head and down to the crank you are good. Turn it over by hand at the crank and make sure pistons and valves don’t touch. After turning the timing marks don’t line up that is normal.😁
but thank you for your tiomewell for some reason its not lining up at all no matter what i do...; it like in the video0 where you mark the wheel 1 2 3 well my maRK IS HITTING ON THE OFF ONES...... i
That was torture for you, sir, but I still watched you do it. I'll keep your number on speed dial for the next time I have a 2005 Pilot rebuild to do. No worries, Mitch, I will not see a rebuild everrrr as I have no furture plans for a Pilot. HA 😀
Thanks for watching the video😁 it was a little like torture😂 originally I had 3 hours of footage and it took over 6 hours to edit🤪 I was so close to giving up and turn off the camera so I could just put it back together. It was good practice. I think tractor videos are way easier to do. Have a great week.😁👍🚜💨🍳
Great job, Mitch! And this video’s perfect coz my brother gave me his 2010 MDX that broke a timing belt. I already took off and cleaned the timing belt area and i’m on the stage of about to do a leak down test… My question is, if you don’t mind, what’s the reason why you also had to remove the other head opposite the one that has cylinder #4? Was there also a problem in there, clearance issues or when doing head rebuilds on V6s they have to be done in pairs… Thanks a lot!
I didn’t need to do both but I was already there so I went ahead and just did it. This was a good call because the machine shop guy said some of the valve needed touching up and now I got all new valve seals too. Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff Thanks, I was just wondering coz in our area machine shop work is so expensive. But then if both of the MDX's cylinders are affected, then I'd have no choice. I just hope you won't mind me asking questions in the future coz this would be my first V6 head rebuild.... Keep up the good work, man. Your attitude is amazing.
@@Nio_by_Sakuji If you need help let me know. Just take your time and if you start getting frustrated just take a break. This was the first Honda engine for me too. Have a great weekend.😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff I appreciate the offer, Mitch! So finally got the chance to do a leakdown test (both dry and wet) and scoping : bent intake valves on #4. The rest are clear including all piston tops, bore walls, and also leak test results of rest of the cylinders (all were approx 3% at wet/ dry and at tdc and also at fully depressed pistons). I'm not able to make a compression test as I didn't want to buy parts (belt) without properly seeing what's up. Thank you for your video; used it as a guide coz this is my first japanese car as the rest of my previous projects were all american. I'm now a bit bent (see what I did there) on just rebuilding the bank (2) that has cylinder #4 and not mess up with bank1 based off my results above. Coz the way my brother carefully treated this vehicle (on time overall maintenance/servicing with OCI of every 3-5k miles) and nominal diagnostic results on bank1, I 'm actually afraid pulling that head based of how difficult it was on your video + including how tight it is dealing with MDX bank1's catalytic converter (it's just so tight). Model year was 2008 with only 110k miles which IMO low for its year. Will might just pull the bank2 cylinder first and give me a few more days to think about the unaffected cylinder. Unless you can clearly see some other cons that I maybe missing. Thanks again , Mitch.
@@Nio_by_Sakuji Glad to hear you know what you’re getting into. Sounds like it’s going to be a very reliable vehicle when you get it done. Thanks for sharing your trouble shooting diagnostics. Good luck on your project.😁👍
Hey Mitch. You must of had so knowledge on this before you started that was so cool. You got some gutso man. I can’t even get my garden tractor engine to work. I’m very impressed good job great video
Thank you for the kind words BJ. 😁👍 my father in law always said if it’s broken you can’t make it any worse just try it. Back then there was no UA-cam to look anything up either 😂 thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Very true and now I know this thing In and out. The dealership (steelership)wanted $2600 just for labor🤯 I had to check😂Thanks for checking out the video Mech.😁👍🚜💨🍳
Anytime 😁 I think the Honda pilot engine is nice because of the aluminum parts. I have worked on many BMWs over the years and the plastic parts are junk in my opinion. Got over 5K miles on the valve job and it is running perfect. Have a great week 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Go to 13:10 on the video the rear head is marked with a line in the cam sprocket ⚙️ the red sharpie is the number 2 and 3 so the mark on the metal is 1. That needs to line up with the backing plate/timing cover that is TDC for #1. hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨🍳
hello boss, just a quick question, when you did the valve adjustment. how did you turn the cam to adjust the valves outside the car? did you use a wrench to move the cam?
Just seen your comment. I used a Spanner wrench and the springs will fight you so rotate counters clockwise to get it to stay where you want it. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Great video! I followed everything but ran into issue. Does anyone know what is the name of the nozzle which goes into bead next to fuel injector? It connected to hose, I broke one and cannot fiend it. Pls help
The valve springs have tension when on the timing mark. It helps if you rotate it counter clockwise and go slow hold it for a few seconds then it will stay. Thanks for leaving a comment.😁👍🚜💨🍳
This is an awesome video! For anyone reading this, clean engine oil should be used instead of white lithium grease as per the manual. Also, a zip tie works great to hold those o-rings in while you're driving the cam end cap into position. Impressive job putting this together and filming it all. I'm always in awe of guys who have the patience to wrestle with a task like this and do such a pro job documenting all of it. Thanks again.
@@Mrfrags4117 Thanks 😁👍 I should have used motor oil on the rubber seals for sure. In my defense I had a lot to do. Hopefully it will be fine. Have not had a problem with the Pilot since the repair. Thanks for the kind words and watching. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
OK I made the mistake and did not put my head on blocks of wood before I rotated my cam and I rotated it through twice before I realized should I get the valves and the head tested again?
@@elvis7652 You might be ok still. Squirt water on the backside of the valves and see if it leaks out when they are in the closed position. Good luck 😁👍🚜💨🍳
I made sure my valves were closed....added some water to the top it dripped. then on closer examination I saw there was carbon on the valves that Southworth in Eugene OR did not clean when i had the work done (I am a little surprised at that) 🤔anyway I took the time to rotate the cam and clean each valve with cleaner. Began adding water again at each cylinder one at a time (4,5,6)at TDC and no drips I dodged a bullet thanks for the tip!! YOUR THE BEST!!
Now I can put everything back together and yes this is my first time replacing head gasket on a newer car.👍 My last head gasket was a 1963 ss Impala I was 17 years old now I am 59 😆 THANKS AGAIN!
Loved the vedio's man! Im to the point where i got the heads out! Are the heads new, or did the machine shop clean them? And what all did you have them do to them? Thanks
The heads were pressure tested and did a valve job package. Plus one of the heads was not fixable so had to find a good core that was fixable. I reused the parts of plus cam of the original head. Hope I answered your question. Have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff that’s exactly it. It’s my sons pilot and I have a few hours here and there…I tell him just a bit at a time. I keep your video(s) on standby!
@@manicmandownup The most time consuming and challenging parts were the thermostat housing nuts,the rear catalytic converter lower bracket and wiring harness removal. 😁
@@MJADoingStuff I removed the front head today. Cylinder 4 exhaust valve is broken…I think also the culprit for coolant loss. I tell you what, I don’t think I want to do the other cylinder head! Do I actually have to? Cylinder 4 is the whole reason I’m doing this lol
I bought timing belt from Amazon and it ropped 1 months later !!! Guys I did preventive maintenance for prevent valve damage and after change belt it happen couse not original belt .. it sucks!!
That was a huge amount of works and it was great to watch the steps you went through. I can understand why you are happy
Thanks Joseph 😁I appreciate you checking out the video and leaving a comment.😁👍🚜💨🍳
I watched alot of videos regarding the j^ series engine and I gota tell you your videos are the best. clear and very simple to follow. I am just about to put my heads back on but since its a 2007 model, it requires different torque. Thanks Mitch
Thank you very much for the kind words. I wish I could show more steps in the video but that would be 3 hours long and I don’t think people would watch 😂 Can I ask how many miles are on your engine? Mine failed at only 151K🥲 Thanks for checking out the video😁have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuffI would happily watch a 3 hr video!
@@bluor3713 Good to know😁👍 Thanks for leaving a comment. Hope you had a great 4th of July and have all your fingers.😂 🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuffStill have all my digits, but powder burns are a different story. Lol
1:57 Keep the sunnyside up! Or you'll have a big mess on the floor...
😂 I see it now hahaha good one😁👍🚜💨🍳
Hey man I just want to say this video was a life saver. I bought a 2007 honda pilot on Facebook marketplace at market value with a blown head gasket etc. i decided to not spend the 3500-4000 bucks with a mechanic and decided to watch your two videos to solve the problem myself. So thank you 🤙🏼
You’re welcome😁👍 Thanks for the kind words. My 2005 has been running great ever since the repair. It is my daily driver and a great all around vehicle. Thanks for watching both videos 🚜💨☀️
I also overheated engine replaced the front gasket of the head but it still does not run smoothly I will change the second one I want to ask the engine block and can suffer or not?
@@bogdantoysreviem7193 Maybe do a compression test before you take it apart to see what cylinder is having problems. Just a thought 😁👍
Another amazing video Mitch, FULL watch sir. 👍🏻🙋🏼♂🙂🌞😎
Thanks Luc 😁I appreciate that. I tried the chapters for the first time I hope it will save time if someone that is looking for a specific part. I will be doing more tractor stuff soon just got a bunch of repairs lately🤔Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🙋🏻♂️
Very cool. The way I look at it, regardless of how involved a repair is, by taking my time, not getting frustrated, watching videos like yours, it’s gonna be a solid repair. Thanks for putting this online 👍
Thanks 😁 my thoughts exactly. I’m very happy with how it turned out. I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for leaving a comment Have a great week 😁👍🚜💨🍳
That sound you heard on the start up sound like the power steering pump sucking a little air in the line before it had fluid go through it. Very common on these engines. My 08 Oddesy made the same sound when doing the timing belt a few months ago. Doing the valve cover gasket tomorrow at 190,000 and the engine is strong as ever. I love the J 35 series engine as I believe with regular maintenance they are bulletproof.
Thanks that makes sense. Glad you are having better luck with your J series motor. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff I saw this video and not the previous, but why did you remove the heads on the engine?
@@danielrowe2174 The steel valve guide on the #4 cylinder had a coolant leak between the cast aluminum on the intake port and was leaking into the cylinder. I was already that far in so I just replaced both heads and did a valve job. 😁
“I used acetone and a plastic scraper... not at the same time”, lol 🤣🤣🤣
You noticed that one!!!🤣👍 you never know what people will do if you say the wrong thing. Thanks for checking out the video Gary 😁👍🚜💨🍳
The service manual (at least for my 2010 j35a7) says to replace that special
idler bolt. I know that people, including professional Honda techs, often don't replace bolts that service manual says to replace but I can never get comfortable not replacing them myself.
If I knew that I would have replaced it too😂 maybe next time. Thanks for watching 😁👍and have a great week 🚜💨🍳
Great Video, at 20:30 the Cam Lobes operate in a oil bath, not pressure fed so your instinct is correct. That little bit of oil assured lubrication on start up to the Cam lobes. 4:53 Notice how much sludge/varnish buildup is in the front valve cover compared to the rear valve cover. It's a weak point in the PCV system evacuating the crankcase IMHO.
I had to replace both cams and a couple of rocker arms at about 260K miles on my 10 MDX. I'm at 287,70+ now. Looking at correcting the PCV system. Again great video, I'm sure that was a job by itself.
I see you have a boat, great fun.....
ua-cam.com/video/-Pa8_Jkk1wc/v-deo.html
Thanks 😁 I was surprised to see no Cam bearings when I had it apart🤔 one day I will get a parts washer 😂 I could have done a better job at cleaning up the valve covers. This is our daily driver so had to get it back on the road ASAP.😵💫 We live in Minnesota and I was told that you must get a boat to fit in😂 Good to hear Your MDX is still on the road. I do have to say I was happy that Honda used more metal parts compared to other Manufacturers. Thanks for watching 🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff " I was happy that Honda used more metal parts compared to other Manufacturers." That's one of the main reasons these engines last. Plastic parts just don't like heat cycling and they don't last. BMW, great engineers, great performance but they went to plastic everywhere under the hood and ruined their reputation for long lasting cars they had for decades. What a shame.
I noticed you run Synthetic, good move, I run Amsoil now but ran M1 for 100K+ miles. Splitting hair when you get to top tier oils. Amsoil ATF Signature oil is the best for your trans I would suggest.
Again great work and stay safe out there.
@@robertjackson7590 I agree I just sold my 2011 335i Xdrive because of all the plastic crap and second water pump at 90K miles. BMW makes strong engines then ruin them with plastic dressing 😂 Have a great weekend.
FYI, lithium grease degrades most rubbers and plastics. Silicone based lubricants is the one to be used if using for installing orings or other rubbers. New engine oil can be used too to install orings and seals.
Good to know thanks for the tip. And thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Watch both taking apart and putting together this definitely is the stuff in doing stuff .. what a project :)
Thank you for checking out both videos😁I know it wasn't tractor related but things keep braking around here 😂I do have Tractor Stuff coming soon. Have a good one B Hall 😁👍🚜💨☀
Hey, I just wanna say thanks again for the way u made the video💪! I went from not knowing a single thing about cars, to completely rebuilding my heads on my 2004 honda pilot! U made me go for it🤝
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video and saved some money doing it yourself. These older model Honda’s are nice to work on because of the metal parts. Nowadays everything is plastic and needs replacing. Have a great weekend. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Great job Mitch, you should be proud of the dedication to this project. Saved tons by not having to buy a new vehicle or send to a shop.
Thanks for the kind words Mike 😁I think with the crazy vehicle prices I had no choice but to fix it. The dealership wanted $2600 for just labor🤯the other cool part is I got some new tools. Have a good one 😁👍🚜💨🍳
My 2005 pilot just blew the head gasket ...can i can just change the head gasket with out doing a head jod mitch ????
@@blairrudderham7100 I would not recommend it but you would have to make the final decision. Thanks for Watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Nice video! I'm doing a 2003 Pilot. Looks like you are an electrician... I have 3 sets of those same blue handled Klein dikes. They are practically indestructible! Sub'd!
Thanks. I would consider myself a jack of all trades. I have done many main and sub panels in my time. All passed inspection. I am a believer of having the right tools for the job. And your right about the Klein dikes they’re awesome. Thanks for subscribing and watching. Have a great day 😁👍🚜💨☀️.
Do you have to use rtv around the coolant pipe housing that mates to the heads? Or just use the gaskets the kit comes with?
Your preference I do it out of habit. I feel it seals the first time and it has always worked for me in the past. So short answer would be yes. Hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff thank you. One more question, i lost the back bushing for the serpentine belt tensioner. Do i have to have that or fine without in your opinion?
@@ESP-Collectiblesunfortunately you need the bushing. Hopefully you can find it. 😁
@@MJADoingStuff your responsiveness just saved me a road trip thanks again bro 🤙
You sure know your stuff... Great video
Sometimes I get lucky 😂 Thanks again 😁👍🚜💨🍳
You were right, Mitch!....
This is about the MDX I mentioned above. I finally decided to just pull the other unaffected cylinder as well and will rebuild it together with Bank2 (bent #4 intake valves). What made me decide to do that was after checking the seals and O-rings on bank2, almost all are nearing end of life: rigid, plastic like feel instead of rubberized. These won't last 50k miles or at-least as long as the new ones. Plus, will take the opportunity to do valve mating surface reconditioning. The difficult part was loosening the nuts holding the cat converter to the head. My hands won't even fit in there; almost decided to just bring down the whole engine-subframe assembly.
As the new parts delivery is delayed for like 1-2 weeks extra, this gives me more than enough time to measure things against factory spec and also clean things up. The Bank2 cylinder head by the way turned out ok. No measurable warping anywhere and even all valve guides were within spec. The bent #4 intake valves was all got affected by the timing belt breaking.
Thanks , Mitch!
You’re welcome 😁 did you watch the removal video? I pulled the head with catalytic converter connected together. Glad you decided to pull both heads. Have a great week 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff Yeah, I did... However, on the MDX (not sure about Pilot) there is another bracket near the 3 bolt of the primary exhaust pipe holding the cat down to the engine block. And it can only be removed after removing the primary exhaust pipe + front sub-frame stiffener and support + intermediate shaft. If I do that I'm basically just 2-3 steps away of removing the whole engine-subframe assembly. Since, a buddy borrowed my mini lift long-term, that won't be feasible until next spring.
Anyhow, after some building up a series of mini socket extensions (and some arm and hand scratches), I was finally able to remove the nuts. Assembly it seems would be a bit easier as I removed the cat studs from the head.
More power to you, Mitch.
@@Nio_by_Sakuji Yeah I remember that bracket on the Pilot it was a short 2 bolt bracket on the bottom part of the motor and rear converter it was very light room to work. Sounds like you got it handled. It will be well worth all the labor you put in when it is done. 😁👍
Absolutely no reason for rtv sealant when you have a new oring. Let the oring do its job.
I installed it using the instructions in the kit. Everyone has their own opinion of doing things plus the old one had some on it. Thanks for watching.😁👍
The service manual calls for rtv behind the gasket, in the groove. If you think you know better Japanese engineers in a multi billion dollar company, then youre pretty arrogant and ignorant.
@@xESPplayer500x Well said!!!😂👍
yes I installed without rtv and it leaked. I had to take it all apart again and redo it.@@xESPplayer500x
Very good job.1700$ do the whole thing it sensible?.
I saved a lot 😁 local shop wanted $2600 just for labor. So I had no choice but to do it myself. It is still running great after over 2k miles we are happy so far. Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
That is quite an undertaking Mitch
Sure was but saved me a lot of money 💰 on the labor side. They wanted $2600 just for labor at the dealer🤯 have a good day Gary😁👍🚜💨🍳
This is great work! I am impressed. Thanks a lot for sharing your work😊
Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍 Have a great weekend 🚜💨🍳
Dude rtv on the water pump gasket is a bad idea. The gasket works just fine when the water pump bolts are torqued down properly. Rtv can cause the gasket to malfunction and create leaks down the road.
@@justingog4533 The instructions told me to do it!!!😂👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff the instructions with the Aisin kit ???
@@justingog4533 Yes
Great video's ! Watched them both. Did you put a new head on or find a used one ?
I had to find a used repairable one and went ahead and had both heads pressure tested and the valves redone with new valve stem seals. They came back from the machine shop looking like new. Thanks for watching both videos 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff Thanks for the head's up. Looking at 2008 Pilot right now that has an overheating problem. Either a bad head gasket or a bad head. I can handle the head gasket(s) job , but if I have to find heads for it then it's not worth the investment for me.
What size thread chaser for a 2005 Honda pilot head bolts?
I would have to look 👀 it can’t remember at this time
Either 12x1.25 or 12x1.5 can't remember
So when removing heads to take to machine shop u have to take the rockers off?
Yes they will charge you extra if they have to do it. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
With a blown head gasket mitch ....can you just put on a new head gasket ,or the heads need to be planed down ????
i did notice you rechecked your gap on the valves. did you need to rotate each cylinder to TDC before rechecking? in my case it just 4,5,6
Yes They need to be Checked at TDC. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Okay thank you and i will say it again you are amazing! 👏And I’m a first timer if I haven’t told you that before👍🏻appreciate all your help!
@@elvis7652 Glad to help 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Can you do mine?
Sorry don’t have the time right now. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Did you have a bad head gasket and decide to go full rebuild? Very cool
I have another video showing the removal and what I found. I did originally think it was a head gasket but it turns out it was a coolant leak between the steel valve guide and aluminum head on the number 4 intake valve. Not fixable so had to replace. And when your that far into it you might as well finish the job right. Don’t want to say I should have done it after the fact. It is running like brand new now😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff my son’s 2006 Pilot (have had it for 4 months) has a “bad” exhaust valve on cylinder 4. The valve is physically damaged. I imagine there’s multiple bad valves, though. It starts very hard now and wants to stall when engaged in gear. I think I’m better off removing and replacing the engine. We don’t really have time to do a rebuild, but it does look interesting. Maybe I’ll keep the engine and rebuild it? What are the chances that the cats are fouled up now?
@@manicmandownup Hard to say if the cats are bad til you take it apart. Good luck with your project 😁👍
thank you so much bro. honda pilot 2007 wont rev pass 300 rpm and getting code for crank and cam shaft senor and one of the heads is running only 2 cylinder, def rebuilding my engine
Your welcome. Well the good news is that Honda built this engine to be repaired not thrown in the trash. So you will be happy when you are not braking plastic parts. Just make sure you use a torque wrench. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Your video is one of or the best one I’ve seen so far…but it’s a little scary at the same time. My story. Im living in my van right now. It’s Covid related…but I’m treating it as a learning experience. I’ve be using my 05 odyssey to do deliveries for Uber Eats to support myself.
Three weeks ago. My van started overheating and coolant started disappearing. Turns out I blew a head gasket. I’ve been researching Gasket sealers and diys videos like yours. Ive been hesitant to which one I should attempt. I can’t afford a mechanic and a the highest rated pour in gasket sealer is $70. The sealer may not repair the leak and could also damage the engine.
Question? How much minimum of disconnecting will I have to do to get to the head gasket? It’s the part that scaring me.
I’ve been parked for 3 weeks now and I need to start working on a solution ASAP. If you read this and reply.
Thank you for your time.
Question do you know which cylinder head is bad? Front or rear. Sorry to hear about what your experiencing. Another question what is your mechanical skill level in your opinion. I know your back is against the wall but keep doing what you can to move forward good or bad nothing lasts forever. I will try to answer you when I get more information. 😁👍🚜💨🍳
My kit for my 2005 pilot came with a spacer shim?? Do i need this?
If it is for the cylinder heads ask the company that is machining the cylinder heads if you need it😁those shims are to make up the difference if they had to take a lot off when re surfacing. Hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff no i mean the shims they added to the timing idler pulleys. Apparently some hondas made a squeek that effected the belt so they came up with a shim..?
@@xESPplayer500x Ooooh!!! 😂 my kit didn’t have one and I don’t have a squeak yet. So not sure if you need it.😁
@@MJADoingStuff ok, since my pilot is a 2005 as welll im gonna go ahead and NOT install it, thank you bro your videos were a ton of help 💯👌
I found two hollow pins during the last removing the front engine head. Email to you yesterday. Please see the pictures. Maybe you can figure out where they are from. Thanks
Sounds good I will check the email 😁👍
Think I could sit here and watch you put stuff together all day👍
Ha! 😁👍Thanks BB I got some tractor videos coming soon just have to fix a few more things around here. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment 🚜💨🍳
liked this video . im in the middle of doing this on a 3.5 j series engine... and my right head... it not lining up... it skips right over it refuses to land on the line its like a even and odd and only lands on odd........ can you help???
Thanks 😁if you can figure out were to line it up at the intake side corners then it should fall on the dowel pins. Just make sure to use a mirror and double check all the way around to make sure it’s set. Take a break just before you try to set it so you are fresh and ready to getter done. Hope this helps good luck 🍀😁👍🚜💨🍳
thanks but im talking about the wheel that is attached to the cam..... it rides over the mark....they are supposede to be lined up
but it skips it is either before or after the mark
@@davidgenereux9540 Oh I get it whoops 😂 as long as you have all the timing marks aligned and the timing belt tight from the rear head to the front head and down to the crank you are good. Turn it over by hand at the crank and make sure pistons and valves don’t touch. After turning the timing marks don’t line up that is normal.😁
but thank you for your tiomewell for some reason its not lining up at all no matter what i do...; it like in the video0 where you mark the wheel 1 2 3 well my maRK IS HITTING ON THE OFF ONES...... i
That was torture for you, sir, but I still watched you do it. I'll keep your number on speed dial for the next time I have a 2005 Pilot rebuild to do. No worries, Mitch, I will not see a rebuild everrrr as I have no furture plans for a Pilot. HA 😀
Thanks for watching the video😁 it was a little like torture😂 originally I had 3 hours of footage and it took over 6 hours to edit🤪 I was so close to giving up and turn off the camera so I could just put it back together. It was good practice. I think tractor videos are way easier to do. Have a great week.😁👍🚜💨🍳
Hi! When placing the camshaft n, should i put on the sprocket and line up the marks before i install the lifters an rockers? Thanks
It won’t stay on the marks just assemble the lifters and rockers first then turn to the marks. Hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Mitchell 1 say's go around twice on the torque. Great job following you for tips!
It is still running Great!!!😂👍Thanks for checking out the video I appreciate it. 🚜💨🍳
Great job, Mitch! And this video’s perfect coz my brother gave me his 2010 MDX that broke a timing belt. I already took off and cleaned the timing belt area and i’m on the stage of about to do a leak down test… My question is, if you don’t mind, what’s the reason why you also had to remove the other head opposite the one that has cylinder #4? Was there also a problem in there, clearance issues or when doing head rebuilds on V6s they have to be done in pairs… Thanks a lot!
I didn’t need to do both but I was already there so I went ahead and just did it. This was a good call because the machine shop guy said some of the valve needed touching up and now I got all new valve seals too. Thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff Thanks, I was just wondering coz in our area machine shop work is so expensive. But then if both of the MDX's cylinders are affected, then I'd have no choice. I just hope you won't mind me asking questions in the future coz this would be my first V6 head rebuild.... Keep up the good work, man. Your attitude is amazing.
@@Nio_by_Sakuji If you need help let me know. Just take your time and if you start getting frustrated just take a break. This was the first Honda engine for me too. Have a great weekend.😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff I appreciate the offer, Mitch!
So finally got the chance to do a leakdown test (both dry and wet) and scoping : bent intake valves on #4. The rest are clear including all piston tops, bore walls, and also leak test results of rest of the cylinders (all were approx 3% at wet/ dry and at tdc and also at fully depressed pistons). I'm not able to make a compression test as I didn't want to buy parts (belt) without properly seeing what's up. Thank you for your video; used it as a guide coz this is my first japanese car as the rest of my previous projects were all american.
I'm now a bit bent (see what I did there) on just rebuilding the bank (2) that has cylinder #4 and not mess up with bank1 based off my results above. Coz the way my brother carefully treated this vehicle (on time overall maintenance/servicing with OCI of every 3-5k miles) and nominal diagnostic results on bank1, I 'm actually afraid pulling that head based of how difficult it was on your video + including how tight it is dealing with MDX bank1's catalytic converter (it's just so tight). Model year was 2008 with only 110k miles which IMO low for its year.
Will might just pull the bank2 cylinder first and give me a few more days to think about the unaffected cylinder. Unless you can clearly see some other cons that I maybe missing.
Thanks again , Mitch.
@@Nio_by_Sakuji Glad to hear you know what you’re getting into. Sounds like it’s going to be a very reliable vehicle when you get it done. Thanks for sharing your trouble shooting diagnostics. Good luck on your project.😁👍
Hey Mitch. You must of had so knowledge on this before you started that was so cool. You got some gutso man. I can’t even get my garden tractor engine to work. I’m very impressed good job great video
Thank you for the kind words BJ. 😁👍 my father in law always said if it’s broken you can’t make it any worse just try it. Back then there was no UA-cam to look anything up either 😂 thanks for checking out the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Nice job Mitch! It’s been a long time since I rebuild an engine. A hole lot more satisfying doing it yourself and a money saver. Later
Very true and now I know this thing In and out. The dealership (steelership)wanted $2600 just for labor🤯 I had to check😂Thanks for checking out the video Mech.😁👍🚜💨🍳
just got a 2006 honda pilot. Im looking to do a job like this on it. Thanks for the insight!!!
Anytime 😁 I think the Honda pilot engine is nice because of the aluminum parts. I have worked on many BMWs over the years and the plastic parts are junk in my opinion. Got over 5K miles on the valve job and it is running perfect. Have a great week 😁👍🚜💨🍳
How do you set it to 1 outside of the car?... They told me not to put on the rockers on the heads before bolting the heads down
Go to 13:10 on the video the rear head is marked with a line in the cam sprocket ⚙️ the red sharpie is the number 2 and 3 so the mark on the metal is 1. That needs to line up with the backing plate/timing cover that is TDC for #1. hope that helps 😁👍🚜💨🍳
tHank you for the video. I think it was very well narrated and paced.
Thank you for the kind words I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
hello boss, just a quick question, when you did the valve adjustment. how did you turn the cam to adjust the valves outside the car? did you use a wrench to move the cam?
Just seen your comment. I used a Spanner wrench and the springs will fight you so rotate counters clockwise to get it to stay where you want it. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Also don’t forget to put the heads on some blocks of wood so your valves don’t hit the work bench.
@@MJADoingStuff there won't be a risk in adjusting the valves going counter clockwise correct? thank you for responding
@@badraalezairej4648 as long as it is on the workbench on same
On some blocks of wood, so the valves don’t touch the workbench
UA-cam Certified Technician 💥
😂👍Thanks for checking out the video Have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
These Pilots are so easy to work on... So glad I bought one.
I agree they use a lot of metal parts so you can reuse them. Thanks for watching 😁👍🚜💨☀️
Impressive work. Thank you.
Thanks Frank 😁👍your welcome I appreciate you checking out the video. 🚜💨🍳
Great video! I followed everything but ran into issue. Does anyone know what is the name of the nozzle which goes into bead next to fuel injector? It connected to hose, I broke one and cannot fiend it. Pls help
Can you send a picture on messenger or Email to mjadoingstuff@gmail.com
@@MJADoingStuff thank you so much! Email sent!
Why when i turn the cam it spins past the mark?
The valve springs have tension when on the timing mark. It helps if you rotate it counter clockwise and go slow hold it for a few seconds then it will stay. Thanks for leaving a comment.😁👍🚜💨🍳
This is an awesome video! For anyone reading this, clean engine oil should be used instead of white lithium grease as per the manual. Also, a zip tie works great to hold those o-rings in while you're driving the cam end cap into position. Impressive job putting this together and filming it all. I'm always in awe of guys who have the patience to wrestle with a task like this and do such a pro job documenting all of it. Thanks again.
@@Mrfrags4117 Thanks 😁👍 I should have used motor oil on the rubber seals for sure. In my defense I had a lot to do. Hopefully it will be fine. Have not had a problem with the Pilot since the repair. Thanks for the kind words and watching. 😁👍🚜💨☀️
@@MJADoingStuff I'd second that, very well done video. 👍
@@tcmits3699 Thanks for checking out the video and the kind words. Have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨☀️
OK I made the mistake and did not put my head on blocks of wood before I rotated my cam and I rotated it through twice before I realized should I get the valves and the head tested again?
However, I did have a piece of cardboard down, but left impressions in the cardboard. Silly me.😢
@@elvis7652 You might be ok still. Squirt water on the backside of the valves and see if it leaks out when they are in the closed position. Good luck 😁👍🚜💨🍳
All right, I’ll give it a whirl. Thank you so much.😅😎👍🏻👍🏻
I made sure my valves were closed....added some water to the top it dripped. then on closer examination I saw there was carbon on the valves that Southworth in Eugene OR did not clean when i had the work done (I am a little surprised at that) 🤔anyway I took the time to rotate the cam and clean each valve with cleaner. Began adding water again at each cylinder one at a time (4,5,6)at TDC and no drips I dodged a bullet thanks for the tip!! YOUR THE BEST!!
Now I can put everything back together and yes this is my first time replacing head gasket on a newer car.👍 My last head gasket was a 1963 ss Impala I was 17 years old now I am 59 😆
THANKS AGAIN!
Loved the vedio's man! Im to the point where i got the heads out! Are the heads new, or did the machine shop clean them? And what all did you have them do to them? Thanks
The heads were pressure tested and did a valve job package. Plus one of the heads was not fixable so had to find a good core that was fixable. I reused the parts of plus cam of the original head. Hope I answered your question. Have a great weekend 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Thank again man! What should i b lookin to pay for a valve replacement job on both heads and should i take them off?
It will cost around $750 depending on the condition of each head and machine shop you chose if you remove them yourself.😁@@alonzogodwin3745
Where did you get the new heads?
I got them redone at a local engine machine shop. They did a awesome job😁👍🚜💨🍳
They look great!!
So impressive, nice work. I’m in the beginning phases of this monumental task lol
All I can say is one part at a time will get it done. Good luck and thanks for watching. 😁👍🚜💨🍳
@@MJADoingStuff that’s exactly it. It’s my sons pilot and I have a few hours here and there…I tell him just a bit at a time. I keep your video(s) on standby!
@@manicmandownup The most time consuming and challenging parts were the thermostat housing nuts,the rear catalytic converter lower bracket and wiring harness removal. 😁
@@MJADoingStuff I removed the front head today. Cylinder 4 exhaust valve is broken…I think also the culprit for coolant loss. I tell you what, I don’t think I want to do the other cylinder head! Do I actually have to? Cylinder 4 is the whole reason I’m doing this lol
@@manicmandownup You don’t have to but you are so close not much more left to just do it. Either way it’s up to you. 😁👍