Tools that I used in this video: Milwaukee 1/4" Impact: amzn.to/3s7cHdr 3/8 Electronic Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3wBJUB8 Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/2PHvm2v Wrenches: amzn.to/3fZfKSG Stubby Screwdriver: amzn.to/3dSfPof Valve Adjusting tool (not required): amzn.to/3wKv5w8 Parts that I replaced while preforming the valve adjustment: DOUBLE CHECK YOUR THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS! 2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Valve Cover Gaskets & Gromits: amzn.to/2OyJSc4 2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Upper Intake Gaskets- amzn.to/3s0kzgV
My kind of guy ..swivel ratchet all the way …not to mention the video ..bro you killed it ..torque specs ..tightening sequence….and hacks bro you earned the follow and thumbs up all day everyday ..keep up that quality of video making ..
@@davileett1224 not that loose. ... but, even still, if you need to use the next larger size feeler gauge to ensure that you don't leave the valve too tight, that's ok. Because when the valves are due for adjustment, some of the valves are extremely loose and it doesn't cause any major issues. Just not getting optimal engine performance / gas mileage. Over-tightening leads to major issues (burnt valves)
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 So, I adjusted my valves a few months ago, and I tightened them to the point that the next feeler gauge was unable to go in without forcing the spring down. However, in doing so, I feel they got about as tight as in this video. I am getting expected mpg from my vehicle, but it could be possible it feels a bit more sluggish. I do hear the valves clicking when at idle with the hood up, but thinking they could be too tight eats at me a bit.
Amazing video. I watched someone else’s video who didn’t mention turning over the engine for each valve adjustment and damn near blew my engine. Your video is a HUGE help!
Damn I never would of attempted this untill now. I'ma watch ur vide a couple more times but now I'm confident. Ur A life saver. U need to make more of these videos. Ur a top Knotch how to video maker. 💯👍👍
Great video. You are right for Clearance on the Intake valve adjustment side by going a hair tight but still being able to slide the feeler gauge underneath it with some drag, as the intake valves tend to loosen up over 100,000 miles... On the other side though, (exhaust valve adjustment side) you should barely be letting the feeler gauge drag, as the exhaust valves will tend to do the opposite and tighten up over 100,000 miles... Dont go as tight on exhaust Side is my point 👉🏾 but Nice video 👍🏾 Bless the Live Free or Die State 🇺🇲
My 2009 accord 3.5 VTEC that needs this bad and it only has 80k on it but I drive like a maniac lol, it is a fast car!!... I have a KNA air intake, resonator, and Y pipe delete with a performance muffler...Thank you so much bro for your clear instructions as it makes my life easier lol...Gonna tackle it soon as I recieve my gaskets..Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Next time it would be good to hear how the engine sounded before you did the adjustment. I have a 2010 acura mdx with 260,000km, runs good and was looking to hear what an engine that needs a valve adjustment sounds like.
Smooth as butta. Outside the transmission issues on V6/high torque applications, the biggest enemy around this neck of the woods is rust. Otherwise, it's good for 600,000 miles.
I actually prefer to separate the throttle body from the manifold and let it dangle rather than removing it with the intake manifold. That way, I don’t have to worry about removing potentially stuck coolant lines, trying to contain draining coolant, and refilling coolant.
Is the firing order shown the same for 3.7? I would assume it is based off description. I've been looking for the Correct firing order on a 2010 Acura TL 3.7. your reply would be greatly appreciated.
What he's showing with the fingertip snugness on the feeler gauge is 100% correct. You're not compressing the valve spring or the feeler gauge if you're doing fingertip strength. 1 turn of the screw is 1mm of valve lash and the spec is .3mm...so even 1/3 of a turn will *double* the spec.
Question: How much time did the overall valve adjust (from start to finish) require? I've got an '07 Accord V6 with 129k miles. I'm curious because I don't want to be taken advantage of at my local garage. Thanks for the excellent instructional video?
the video at 13:50 it looks like cylinder #4 TDC was arrow lined up to the number not the line next to the number. Does anybody know if that is accurate? or am I supposed to line up the arrow to the line? Also I’m getting a code for a misfire on cylinder 4 does that mean that I over tighten that valve? I only felt a slight drag but I guess my slight drag might be different than someone who is experienced. If somebody could describe slight drag in more detail that would help out.
Great video sir. I have a question I hope you can answer. I removed my heads, when I go to adjust off the vehicle, do I just make sure there's no tension on the valve springs from the cam lobes? Or should I install the heads and adjust with the timing belt back on I appreciate the feed back.
What if your rocker arms are like tighten to the point where you can’t get your feeler gauge inbetween? You have to rotate the engine in order to open it up or you have to take off your rocker arm?
I thought you only adjusted valves when the high point of the cam lobe was 180 degrees from where the rocker touches the cam. Serious question, lm not trolling.
Spark plug blew on Valve 5, everything stripped out and mechanic states there's nowhere left for Helicoil to grab and fix the problem. $3500-$3800 to fix. Thoughts on replacing the cylinder head(s) myself? I may buy new or hit the pick-and-pull lot
1000 percent, depending on the year is how complex everything is going to be. from my understanding working harnesses from the ecu to the engine remain remotely the same but the interior wiring harness to the ecu is different and may require some finesse to link. reddit has so much info for builds brotherman
at 14;08 in the video you show the cyl # in that little hole do you line up the mark on the head with the # like you did or do you line it up with the little line under and to the right of the #- people are telling me that the little mark is what I should go by, I'm getting ready to do this job on my MDX-And I see that you showed us the torque specs for the jam nut but your not doing it
my manager has a 2005 TL with a 3.2l, he is going to put a 3.5l in soon, He drives and beats the living daylights out of it pushing it way past its limits but the craziest thing is that he doesn’t torque anything down. if you’ve spent enough time with vehicles and working under the hood you’ll eventually develop a feel for torque, you’ll be able to feel the threads and feel when they want to pull out or strip on themselves. more than likely our boy here has thousands of hours under the vehicle, hence why he doesn’t torque. This skill is something i’d personally only do once i’ve done the job enough (over a few hundred times) to memorize how the nut (or bolt) breaks loose or how the torque wrench feels to spec. please remember just because you see someone doing something doesn’t mean you should follow suit. much love
You said in the timing belt cover it has a number and in your case it was the number 4 which means 4 is ready to be adjusted which confused me because don’t all of them need to be adjusted or does that number changed based on how far you turn your engine over ??
As you rotate the engine, each of the pistons will be at top and will show their number in that same window. After adjusting the set on the number you started with, you have to rotate to the next number for each set of valves until you come back around to the one you started with. There is also an alignment mark just below the number that has to be aligned with the black plastic pointer at the bottom of the window.
I need a clarification on what would have happened..i took my 2007 Acura tl to the mechanic for valve adjustment. After the first attempt, the engine started misfiring so i took it back. Now, the sound is stuttwring like plug/coil issues with the emgine light blinking. Need to say that after the second attempt, the check wngine light that was there just varnished bit now blinking. What coyld be wrong? Thanks
Cold I think. There is a sticker under the hood that tells you the valve clearance numbers you need. Mine specifically says they are the measurements cold
How did you install your spark plug tube seals? Is it slightly conical for the tube to slide right in? I'm having trouble with my spark plug tube seals and we think they're installed upside down lol
Does sequence matter so much on the valve cover when torquing to spec? I bolted it down and torqued it, but forgot to go according to sequence. Newbie here 😊
@repairgeek so do you know (or anyone out there) why some articles I’ve read speak about these being too tight over time? Only makes sense that it would wear and the gap would increase over time. How can it get tighter? My brother is going to attempt this soon and stated the same thing about thinking some are too tight and not closing valves completely.
Interesting. I would have never thought that the valve/valve seat would wear before the lifter wears. I wonder if that is a sign of poor fuel or running too rich? Definitely good, like you said in the video, to check each one before you loosen them. Thanks!
Are you supposed to rotate the engine to a different cylinder number and then do those valves too? Or just the one valve? It’s just happenstance that the engine landed on #4 is it not?
Anybody know the part number for the 12mm bolts near the valve adjustment bolts? I had to remove the arms to get at the vtec solenoid assembly, and tore one of them up. My measurements were 60mm shaft, 8mm shaft diameter, and a 12mm head, but unable to get a good pitch measurement and can't find this part after hours of searching.
Looks like you can just take the intake manifold off with the throttle body and cables connected. Maybe just lay it off to the side. Or even better just disconnect the throttle body from the manifold and leave it sitting there.
Right , so doesn't that make a difference when making the adjustment? Thanks for replying! Say you're adjusting #6. If you rotate the crank till you get to 6 do you have to rotate again so it's on TDC compression? Or does it not matter if it's on compression or exhaust just as long as it's lined up with the indicator? Thanks!!
I wonder if anyone has ever dropped something in the runners and been able to bring it back out. For the rear i'm sure the special the special Hondo tool would kick-in.
I need to stop you when you say you prefer the valves on the tighter side. Because really it depends on your feeler gauge choice and the spec range for the valve lash. Because if you are using a 0.25 mm feeler gauge and the valve lash spec range is 0.24 mm to 0.33 mm. and you go tight on a 0.25 feeler gauge... ... your lash will actually be less than 0.24 mm. So it really depends on your choice of feeler gauge. Also, if your valves are too tight , you will burn the valve and possibly the valve seat !!!!
@@RepairGeek Talk to Tommy "TOASTER" about that. He roasted a valve on a 1998 CR-V back in 2000 when I worked for Honda. Has more to do with where the places are at when the engine is at operating temperature than it does on cold start. Valves expand with temperature. I realize you know this.
Tools that I used in this video:
Milwaukee 1/4" Impact: amzn.to/3s7cHdr
3/8 Electronic Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3wBJUB8
Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/2PHvm2v
Wrenches: amzn.to/3fZfKSG
Stubby Screwdriver: amzn.to/3dSfPof
Valve Adjusting tool (not required): amzn.to/3wKv5w8
Parts that I replaced while preforming the valve adjustment:
DOUBLE CHECK YOUR THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS!
2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Valve Cover Gaskets & Gromits: amzn.to/2OyJSc4
2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Upper Intake Gaskets- amzn.to/3s0kzgV
My kind of guy ..swivel ratchet all the way …not to mention the video ..bro you killed it ..torque specs ..tightening sequence….and hacks bro you earned the follow and thumbs up all day everyday ..keep up that quality of video making ..
a little tight will lead to a burnt valve !!! A loose valve is a happy valve. You want a slight amount of drag on the feeler gauge.
i agree, feeler gauge too tight
@@Bryan-fc9dv If it had been looser, a large size feeler gauge would have slid in right?
Agreed this guy clearly doesn’t know what he’s doing,you never want to adjust the valves tight..a slight drag is all you need.
@@davileett1224 not that loose. ... but, even still, if you need to use the next larger size feeler gauge to ensure that you don't leave the valve too tight, that's ok. Because when the valves are due for adjustment, some of the valves are extremely loose and it doesn't cause any major issues. Just not getting optimal engine performance / gas mileage. Over-tightening leads to major issues (burnt valves)
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 So, I adjusted my valves a few months ago, and I tightened them to the point that the next feeler gauge was unable to go in without forcing the spring down. However, in doing so, I feel they got about as tight as in this video. I am getting expected mpg from my vehicle, but it could be possible it feels a bit more sluggish. I do hear the valves clicking when at idle with the hood up, but thinking they could be too tight eats at me a bit.
Amazing video. I watched someone else’s video who didn’t mention turning over the engine for each valve adjustment and damn near blew my engine. Your video is a HUGE help!
Typo in video… Exhaust Valve lash you also titled intake valve. Might check this for us learning. 😉 Thank you so much for the great video!
Damn I never would of attempted this untill now. I'ma watch ur vide a couple more times but now I'm confident. Ur A life saver. U need to make more of these videos. Ur a top Knotch how to video maker. 💯👍👍
You don't need to loosen all of them. You should check them first to see if they are within spec before loosening them.
No need to adjust valves that don’t need to be adjusted.
Great video. You are right for Clearance on the Intake valve adjustment side by going a hair tight but still being able to slide the feeler gauge underneath it with some drag, as the intake valves tend to loosen up over 100,000 miles... On the other side though, (exhaust valve adjustment side) you should barely be letting the feeler gauge drag, as the exhaust valves will tend to do the opposite and tighten up over 100,000 miles...
Dont go as tight on exhaust Side is my point 👉🏾 but Nice video 👍🏾
Bless the Live Free or Die State 🇺🇲
Your actually ass backwards lol. Intake always tighten and exhaust loosen. I've only been doing this about 17 years, but I don't know much either lol
My 2009 accord 3.5 VTEC that needs this bad and it only has 80k on it but I drive like a maniac lol, it is a fast car!!... I have a KNA air intake, resonator, and Y pipe delete with a performance muffler...Thank you so much bro for your clear instructions as it makes my life easier lol...Gonna tackle it soon as I recieve my gaskets..Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Next time it would be good to hear how the engine sounded before you did the adjustment.
I have a 2010 acura mdx with 260,000km, runs good and was looking to hear what an engine that needs a valve adjustment sounds like.
Smooth as butta. Outside the transmission issues on V6/high torque applications, the biggest enemy around this neck of the woods is rust. Otherwise, it's good for 600,000 miles.
My dad's got a 3.2TL from 1999 that still runs and drives great. Other than the bad gas milage, but it had that from day one.
This is my dad's work car. Needed a trans at 60k 😬 but this generation is notorious for trans issues.
@@RepairGeek yep, his had transmission issues too.
@@RepairGeek Av6 swap it
Thank you for the video! You make it look so easy and explain things very well. Nice job 👍
Excellent videos with torque specs. This is a model video for others.
Outstanding work.....really, this is how to make a youtube auto video. and thank you for posting the torque specs in the video!
Nice vid. I recommend an engine bay cleaning B4 any work. I also recommend the use of fender covers during any Underwood servicing.
Glad to see it’s literally the same process as the Honda xr80
I actually prefer to separate the throttle body from the manifold and let it dangle rather than removing it with the intake manifold. That way, I don’t have to worry about removing potentially stuck coolant lines, trying to contain draining coolant, and refilling coolant.
Don't most people recommend removing the feeler gauge, hold the screw, torque the jamb nut, then double check with feeler gauge?
Great video! Valves on my 2009 Pilot (3.5L) are ticking castanets above 3000RPM. I'm going to tackle this job in a couple of weeks.
Is the firing order shown the same for 3.7? I would assume it is based off description. I've been looking for the Correct firing order on a 2010 Acura TL 3.7. your reply would be greatly appreciated.
What he's showing with the fingertip snugness on the feeler gauge is 100% correct. You're not compressing the valve spring or the feeler gauge if you're doing fingertip strength. 1 turn of the screw is 1mm of valve lash and the spec is .3mm...so even 1/3 of a turn will *double* the spec.
My 2010 odyssey in garage having it done it's taking forever
Great video , thanks! Will be doing a cam swap on front banks due to preamature cam wear. Your video helps a lot!
The harness is secured in some areas either by a plastic tab or ground wire. Undo those and you get a bit more room to get the rear one off.
This video gave me the confidence to do this job. Thank you.
Great video good reviews very good information. Thank you for the torque specs.
Question: How much time did the overall valve adjust (from start to finish) require? I've got an '07 Accord V6 with 129k miles. I'm curious because I don't want to be taken advantage of at my local garage. Thanks for the excellent instructional video?
Max it took me 2.5 hrs
They're going to charge you labor time, not what it takes them.
@@twiztid6977420 Yep
3 hours minimum
@@sat_sonic 5.5 hrs
the video at 13:50 it looks like cylinder #4 TDC was arrow lined up to the number not the line next to the number. Does anybody know if that is accurate? or am I supposed to line up the arrow to the line? Also I’m getting a code for a misfire on cylinder 4 does that mean that I over tighten that valve? I only felt a slight drag but I guess my slight drag might be different than someone who is experienced. If somebody could describe slight drag in more detail that would help out.
What did you find out?
@ this one turned out to be super simple. I left an injector connector, not all the way plugged in. 😅
Great video sir. I have a question I hope you can answer. I removed my heads, when I go to adjust off the vehicle, do I just make sure there's no tension on the valve springs from the cam lobes? Or should I install the heads and adjust with the timing belt back on
I appreciate the feed back.
What if your rocker arms are like tighten to the point where you can’t get your feeler gauge inbetween? You have to rotate the engine in order to open it up or you have to take off your rocker arm?
Thank you, my friend!
Nice job sir thank you for your video
Question: Is the spark plug shield removeable?
I thought you only adjusted valves when the high point of the cam lobe was 180 degrees from where the rocker touches the cam. Serious question, lm not trolling.
use blue painter tape or a cloth to cover
Perfect video. Perfect
Good job geek we'll done my friend
Thank you sir, great knowledge.
clutch for the tool link and thanks for the vid im doin my 05 rl this for sure helped alot
Spark plug blew on Valve 5, everything stripped out and mechanic states there's nowhere left for Helicoil to grab and fix the problem. $3500-$3800 to fix. Thoughts on replacing the cylinder head(s) myself? I may buy new or hit the pick-and-pull lot
Take head to machine shop put in a nut sert
Nice job! Thanks for the video
Can you swap a 3.5 Engine in a 3.7 Acura ZDX???? The 3.7 have major issues
1000 percent, depending on the year is how complex everything is going to be. from my understanding working harnesses from the ecu to the engine remain remotely the same but the interior wiring harness to the ecu is different and may require some finesse to link. reddit has so much info for builds brotherman
Is they any position the engine will be while adjusting the feeler gauge pls ?
at 14;08 in the video you show the cyl # in that little hole do you line up the mark on the head with the # like you did or do you line it up with the little line under and to the right of the #- people are telling me that the little mark is what I should go by, I'm getting ready to do this job on my MDX-And I see that you showed us the torque specs for the jam nut but your not doing it
my manager has a 2005 TL with a 3.2l, he is going to put a 3.5l in soon, He drives and beats the living daylights out of it pushing it way past its limits but the craziest thing is that he doesn’t torque anything down. if you’ve spent enough time with vehicles and working under the hood you’ll eventually develop a feel for torque, you’ll be able to feel the threads and feel when they want to pull out or strip on themselves. more than likely our boy here has thousands of hours under the vehicle, hence why he doesn’t torque. This skill is something i’d personally only do once i’ve done the job enough (over a few hundred times) to memorize how the nut (or bolt) breaks loose or how the torque wrench feels to spec. please remember just because you see someone doing something doesn’t mean you should follow suit. much love
Well done! Excellent commentary and clear video, thanks a bunch.
You said in the timing belt cover it has a number and in your case it was the number 4 which means 4 is ready to be adjusted which confused me because don’t all of them need to be adjusted or does that number changed based on how far you turn your engine over ??
As you rotate the engine, each of the pistons will be at top and will show their number in that same window. After adjusting the set on the number you started with, you have to rotate to the next number for each set of valves until you come back around to the one you started with. There is also an alignment mark just below the number that has to be aligned with the black plastic pointer at the bottom of the window.
I need a clarification on what would have happened..i took my 2007 Acura tl to the mechanic for valve adjustment. After the first attempt, the engine started misfiring so i took it back. Now, the sound is stuttwring like plug/coil issues with the emgine light blinking. Need to say that after the second attempt, the check wngine light that was there just varnished bit now blinking. What coyld be wrong? Thanks
Question :
Does the engine need to be cold or warm? I think that could make a difference.( I have a 2000 3.0 vtec)
Cold I think. There is a sticker under the hood that tells you the valve clearance numbers you need. Mine specifically says they are the measurements cold
Always cold as far as I've seen.
Below 100F/38C for the J series
Is this a necessary procedure
How did you install your spark plug tube seals? Is it slightly conical for the tube to slide right in? I'm having trouble with my spark plug tube seals and we think they're installed upside down lol
Eric the car guy demonstrates the correct way to install
do i keep spining the engine to 4 to do the back
Does sequence matter so much on the valve cover when torquing to spec? I bolted it down and torqued it, but forgot to go according to sequence. Newbie here 😊
If it leaks then maybe the sequence mattered.
@repairgeek so do you know (or anyone out there) why some articles I’ve read speak about these being too tight over time? Only makes sense that it would wear and the gap would increase over time. How can it get tighter? My brother is going to attempt this soon and stated the same thing about thinking some are too tight and not closing valves completely.
The valve seat wears causing the valve to sink into the head. This makes the stem of the valve taller, decreasing the clearance.
Interesting. I would have never thought that the valve/valve seat would wear before the lifter wears. I wonder if that is a sign of poor fuel or running too rich? Definitely good, like you said in the video, to check each one before you loosen them. Thanks!
What clearance did u use for the filler guage
Are those feeler gauges good for a 2011, J35, 3.5L, V6, MT Accord?
Si, no debería cambiar
Are you supposed to rotate the engine to a different cylinder number and then do those valves too? Or just the one valve? It’s just happenstance that the engine landed on #4 is it not?
I have a Acura TL ‘12 3.7L do these feeler gauge specifications apply?
So how do you know for sure have it in the exactly the right place ther is alot a
Of travel in that cover to what would be in the right spot
Do you need to turn the engine to each cylinder # before adjusting?? Or are you only adjusting one valve?
I just did this and now my car is a little bit louder I'm hoping it was my exhaust that was loose so I can get tighten naturally
Anybody know the part number for the 12mm bolts near the valve adjustment bolts? I had to remove the arms to get at the vtec solenoid assembly, and tore one of them up.
My measurements were 60mm shaft, 8mm shaft diameter, and a 12mm head, but unable to get a good pitch measurement and can't find this part after hours of searching.
Have you ever replaced the valve stem seals? I'm getting oil in spark well 3.
Easy to deform them while installing done it
Looks like you can just take the intake manifold off with the throttle body and cables connected. Maybe just lay it off to the side.
Or even better just disconnect the throttle body from the manifold and leave it sitting there.
Perfect
How do you know if you're on tdc compression and not exhaust?
TDC of exhaust the intake valve is just starting to open. TDC of compression everything is closed.
Right , so doesn't that make a difference when making the adjustment? Thanks for replying! Say you're adjusting #6. If you rotate the crank till you get to 6 do you have to rotate again so it's on TDC compression? Or does it not matter if it's on compression or exhaust just as long as it's lined up with the indicator? Thanks!!
13:31 Adjust both intake and exhaust valves on the cylinder number indicated on the cam gear.
Great video how about change and adjust timing belt video u doing great job
South Main Auto has a great video doing it on the 3.5 in the Odyssey.
Would a mechanic be expected to know how to do this? I'm thinking better do it myself to be sure.
What do you use to clean the mating surfaces
I just used a razor blade. You have to be careful that you don't gouge the aluminum.
Very informative, thanks!
It would be so much simpler if Honda just used hydraulic lifters.
It's better to hear them than smell them buddy, go loose not tight
Did he mention the jam nut torque value? . . all he said ( i have my jam nuts torqued)
Think it's 14 ft/lbs
More j series stuff
I wonder if anyone has ever dropped something in the runners and been able to bring it back out.
For the rear i'm sure the special the special Hondo tool would kick-in.
I need to stop you when you say you prefer the valves on the tighter side. Because really it depends on your feeler gauge choice and the spec range for the valve lash. Because if you are using a 0.25 mm feeler gauge and the valve lash spec range is 0.24 mm to 0.33 mm. and you go tight on a 0.25 feeler gauge... ... your lash will actually be less than 0.24 mm. So it really depends on your choice of feeler gauge. Also, if your valves are too tight , you will burn the valve and possibly the valve seat !!!!
You will have a misfire on cold start long before you ever burn a valve.
@@RepairGeek Talk to Tommy "TOASTER" about that. He roasted a valve on a 1998 CR-V back in 2000 when I worked for Honda. Has more to do with where the places are at when the engine is at operating temperature than it does on cold start. Valves expand with temperature. I realize you know this.
👍😎👍
Wrong! Before you loosen the nut, check with the feeler gauge if that valve even needs adjustment.
17:01
Keep the screwdy in while you tighten the lock mut.
Uhhh. I will just sell the bugger.