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Honda/Acura 3.5/3.2/3.7/3.0 V6 Valve Adjustment (Honda J Series Engine)
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- Опубліковано 9 кві 2021
- To preform a valve adjustment on your Honda 3.5/3.2/3.7/3.0 V6 it is a relatively straight forward procedure. Honda has used this J series V6 engine for over 25 years at this point so there are lots of these engines out there in a lot of different applications. Honda or Acura has used this engine in the Accord, Odyssey, Ridgeline, Pilot, CL, TL, RL, RDX, MDX, and Legend. The engines debuted in 1996 and are still in current production in 2021. Obviously, I can't cover every single detail of every single Honda or Acura model over the past 25 years in 1 30 minute tutorial video but, you will have a very good guide as to how to do the valve adjustments on your particular Honda or Acura.
To preform the valve adjustments, the upper intake manifold must be removed from the engine to gain access to the top of the valve covers. Next the valve covers need to be removed. At this point you need to get the engine in the correct position to preform the adjustments. Once you have the correct cylinder at TDC you can then adjust the valves.
Valve lash settings:
Intake: .008-.009 Inches
Exhaust: .011-.013 Inches
Tools that I used in this video:
Milwaukee 1/4" Impact: amzn.to/3s7cHdr
3/8 Electronic Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3wBJUB8
Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/2PHvm2v
Wrenches: amzn.to/3fZfKSG
Stubby Screwdriver: amzn.to/3dSfPof
Valve Adjusting tool (not required): amzn.to/3wKv5w8
Parts that I replaced while preforming the valve adjustment:
DOUBLE CHECK YOUR THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS!
2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Valve Cover Gaskets & Gromits: amzn.to/2OyJSc4
2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Upper Intake Gaskets- amzn.to/3s0kzgV
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
Tools that I used in this video:
Milwaukee 1/4" Impact: amzn.to/3s7cHdr
3/8 Electronic Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3wBJUB8
Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/2PHvm2v
Wrenches: amzn.to/3fZfKSG
Stubby Screwdriver: amzn.to/3dSfPof
Valve Adjusting tool (not required): amzn.to/3wKv5w8
Parts that I replaced while preforming the valve adjustment:
DOUBLE CHECK YOUR THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS!
2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Valve Cover Gaskets & Gromits: amzn.to/2OyJSc4
2008-2017 VARIOUS MODELS- Upper Intake Gaskets- amzn.to/3s0kzgV
My kind of guy ..swivel ratchet all the way …not to mention the video ..bro you killed it ..torque specs ..tightening sequence….and hacks bro you earned the follow and thumbs up all day everyday ..keep up that quality of video making ..
Amazing video. I watched someone else’s video who didn’t mention turning over the engine for each valve adjustment and damn near blew my engine. Your video is a HUGE help!
You don't need to loosen all of them. You should check them first to see if they are within spec before loosening them.
a little tight will lead to a burnt valve !!! A loose valve is a happy valve. You want a slight amount of drag on the feeler gauge.
i agree, feeler gauge too tight
@@Bryan-fc9dv If it had been looser, a large size feeler gauge would have slid in right?
Agreed this guy clearly doesn’t know what he’s doing,you never want to adjust the valves tight..a slight drag is all you need.
@@davileett1224 not that loose. ... but, even still, if you need to use the next larger size feeler gauge to ensure that you don't leave the valve too tight, that's ok. Because when the valves are due for adjustment, some of the valves are extremely loose and it doesn't cause any major issues. Just not getting optimal engine performance / gas mileage. Over-tightening leads to major issues (burnt valves)
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 So, I adjusted my valves a few months ago, and I tightened them to the point that the next feeler gauge was unable to go in without forcing the spring down. However, in doing so, I feel they got about as tight as in this video. I am getting expected mpg from my vehicle, but it could be possible it feels a bit more sluggish. I do hear the valves clicking when at idle with the hood up, but thinking they could be too tight eats at me a bit.
Damn I never would of attempted this untill now. I'ma watch ur vide a couple more times but now I'm confident. Ur A life saver. U need to make more of these videos. Ur a top Knotch how to video maker. 💯👍👍
Great video. You are right for Clearance on the Intake valve adjustment side by going a hair tight but still being able to slide the feeler gauge underneath it with some drag, as the intake valves tend to loosen up over 100,000 miles... On the other side though, (exhaust valve adjustment side) you should barely be letting the feeler gauge drag, as the exhaust valves will tend to do the opposite and tighten up over 100,000 miles...
Dont go as tight on exhaust Side is my point 👉🏾 but Nice video 👍🏾
Bless the Live Free or Die State 🇺🇲
Your actually ass backwards lol. Intake always tighten and exhaust loosen. I've only been doing this about 17 years, but I don't know much either lol
My 2009 accord 3.5 VTEC that needs this bad and it only has 80k on it but I drive like a maniac lol, it is a fast car!!... I have a KNA air intake, resonator, and Y pipe delete with a performance muffler...Thank you so much bro for your clear instructions as it makes my life easier lol...Gonna tackle it soon as I recieve my gaskets..Cheers!
Typo in video… Exhaust Valve lash you also titled intake valve. Might check this for us learning. 😉 Thank you so much for the great video!
Smooth as butta. Outside the transmission issues on V6/high torque applications, the biggest enemy around this neck of the woods is rust. Otherwise, it's good for 600,000 miles.
Thank you for the video! You make it look so easy and explain things very well. Nice job 👍
What he's showing with the fingertip snugness on the feeler gauge is 100% correct. You're not compressing the valve spring or the feeler gauge if you're doing fingertip strength. 1 turn of the screw is 1mm of valve lash and the spec is .3mm...so even 1/3 of a turn will *double* the spec.
This video gave me the confidence to do this job. Thank you.
Glad to see it’s literally the same process as the Honda xr80
My dad's got a 3.2TL from 1999 that still runs and drives great. Other than the bad gas milage, but it had that from day one.
This is my dad's work car. Needed a trans at 60k 😬 but this generation is notorious for trans issues.
@@RepairGeek yep, his had transmission issues too.
@@RepairGeek Av6 swap it
Excellent videos with torque specs. This is a model video for others.
Don't most people recommend removing the feeler gauge, hold the screw, torque the jamb nut, then double check with feeler gauge?
Nice vid. I recommend an engine bay cleaning B4 any work. I also recommend the use of fender covers during any Underwood servicing.
Great video! Valves on my 2009 Pilot (3.5L) are ticking castanets above 3000RPM. I'm going to tackle this job in a couple of weeks.
My 2010 odyssey in garage having it done it's taking forever
Great video , thanks! Will be doing a cam swap on front banks due to preamature cam wear. Your video helps a lot!
Is the firing order shown the same for 3.7? I would assume it is based off description. I've been looking for the Correct firing order on a 2010 Acura TL 3.7. your reply would be greatly appreciated.
The harness is secured in some areas either by a plastic tab or ground wire. Undo those and you get a bit more room to get the rear one off.
at 14;08 in the video you show the cyl # in that little hole do you line up the mark on the head with the # like you did or do you line it up with the little line under and to the right of the #- people are telling me that the little mark is what I should go by, I'm getting ready to do this job on my MDX-And I see that you showed us the torque specs for the jam nut but your not doing it
Great video good reviews very good information. Thank you for the torque specs.
Good job geek we'll done my friend
Question: How much time did the overall valve adjust (from start to finish) require? I've got an '07 Accord V6 with 129k miles. I'm curious because I don't want to be taken advantage of at my local garage. Thanks for the excellent instructional video?
Max it took me 2.5 hrs
They're going to charge you labor time, not what it takes them.
@@twiztid6977420 Yep
3 hours minimum
Anybody know the part number for the 12mm bolts near the valve adjustment bolts? I had to remove the arms to get at the vtec solenoid assembly, and tore one of them up.
My measurements were 60mm shaft, 8mm shaft diameter, and a 12mm head, but unable to get a good pitch measurement and can't find this part after hours of searching.
Looks like you can just take the intake manifold off with the throttle body and cables connected. Maybe just lay it off to the side.
Or even better just disconnect the throttle body from the manifold and leave it sitting there.
use blue painter tape or a cloth to cover
Thank you, my friend!
I need a clarification on what would have happened..i took my 2007 Acura tl to the mechanic for valve adjustment. After the first attempt, the engine started misfiring so i took it back. Now, the sound is stuttwring like plug/coil issues with the emgine light blinking. Need to say that after the second attempt, the check wngine light that was there just varnished bit now blinking. What coyld be wrong? Thanks
Thank you sir, great knowledge.
Nice job! Thanks for the video
Nice job sir thank you for your video
the video at 13:50 it looks like cylinder #4 TDC was arrow lined up to the number not the line next to the number. Does anybody know if that is accurate? or am I supposed to line up the arrow to the line? Also I’m getting a code for a misfire on cylinder 4 does that mean that I over tighten that valve? I only felt a slight drag but I guess my slight drag might be different than someone who is experienced. If somebody could describe slight drag in more detail that would help out.
What if your rocker arms are like tighten to the point where you can’t get your feeler gauge inbetween? You have to rotate the engine in order to open it up or you have to take off your rocker arm?
Can you swap a 3.5 Engine in a 3.7 Acura ZDX???? The 3.7 have major issues
Spark plug blew on Valve 5, everything stripped out and mechanic states there's nowhere left for Helicoil to grab and fix the problem. $3500-$3800 to fix. Thoughts on replacing the cylinder head(s) myself? I may buy new or hit the pick-and-pull lot
clutch for the tool link and thanks for the vid im doin my 05 rl this for sure helped alot
Great video sir. I have a question I hope you can answer. I removed my heads, when I go to adjust off the vehicle, do I just make sure there's no tension on the valve springs from the cam lobes? Or should I install the heads and adjust with the timing belt back on
I appreciate the feed back.
When u put the clearance for the exaust side u put intake might confuse people
Great video, process nicely explained with a max of details. I have a 2006 Honda Pilot EXl AWD with 250K miles on it. It runs pretty quiet, Idoubt this adjustment has ever been done on it. What would be a clear indication that I need to peform a valve adjustment? Thanks!
I have a Pilot with almost 300k on it and I’m doing a valve adjustment because I’ve been having random misfires causing my check engine light to come on periodically. If yours is running well then you probably don’t absolutely need to do this, but it might be worth it to check and see if they’re in spec
You said in the timing belt cover it has a number and in your case it was the number 4 which means 4 is ready to be adjusted which confused me because don’t all of them need to be adjusted or does that number changed based on how far you turn your engine over ??
As you rotate the engine, each of the pistons will be at top and will show their number in that same window. After adjusting the set on the number you started with, you have to rotate to the next number for each set of valves until you come back around to the one you started with. There is also an alignment mark just below the number that has to be aligned with the black plastic pointer at the bottom of the window.
Question: Is the spark plug shield removeable?
So how do you know for sure have it in the exactly the right place ther is alot a
Of travel in that cover to what would be in the right spot
Is they any position the engine will be while adjusting the feeler gauge pls ?
Well done! Excellent commentary and clear video, thanks a bunch.
Question :
Does the engine need to be cold or warm? I think that could make a difference.( I have a 2000 3.0 vtec)
Cold I think. There is a sticker under the hood that tells you the valve clearance numbers you need. Mine specifically says they are the measurements cold
Always cold as far as I've seen.
Below 100F/38C for the J series
I just did this and now my car is a little bit louder I'm hoping it was my exhaust that was loose so I can get tighten naturally
I have a Acura TL ‘12 3.7L do these feeler gauge specifications apply?
Have you ever replaced the valve stem seals? I'm getting oil in spark well 3.
How did you install your spark plug tube seals? Is it slightly conical for the tube to slide right in? I'm having trouble with my spark plug tube seals and we think they're installed upside down lol
Eric the car guy demonstrates the correct way to install
@repairgeek so do you know (or anyone out there) why some articles I’ve read speak about these being too tight over time? Only makes sense that it would wear and the gap would increase over time. How can it get tighter? My brother is going to attempt this soon and stated the same thing about thinking some are too tight and not closing valves completely.
The valve seat wears causing the valve to sink into the head. This makes the stem of the valve taller, decreasing the clearance.
Interesting. I would have never thought that the valve/valve seat would wear before the lifter wears. I wonder if that is a sign of poor fuel or running too rich? Definitely good, like you said in the video, to check each one before you loosen them. Thanks!
Would a mechanic be expected to know how to do this? I'm thinking better do it myself to be sure.
Does sequence matter so much on the valve cover when torquing to spec? I bolted it down and torqued it, but forgot to go according to sequence. Newbie here 😊
If it leaks then maybe the sequence mattered.
Very informative, thanks!
More j series stuff
What clearance did u use for the filler guage
do i keep spining the engine to 4 to do the back
Great video how about change and adjust timing belt video u doing great job
South Main Auto has a great video doing it on the 3.5 in the Odyssey.
Is this a necessary procedure
I wonder if anyone has ever dropped something in the runners and been able to bring it back out.
For the rear i'm sure the special the special Hondo tool would kick-in.
Did he mention the jam nut torque value? . . all he said ( i have my jam nuts torqued)
Think it's 14 ft/lbs
How do you know if you're on tdc compression and not exhaust?
TDC of exhaust the intake valve is just starting to open. TDC of compression everything is closed.
Right , so doesn't that make a difference when making the adjustment? Thanks for replying! Say you're adjusting #6. If you rotate the crank till you get to 6 do you have to rotate again so it's on TDC compression? Or does it not matter if it's on compression or exhaust just as long as it's lined up with the indicator? Thanks!!
13:31 Adjust both intake and exhaust valves on the cylinder number indicated on the cam gear.
What do you use to clean the mating surfaces
I just used a razor blade. You have to be careful that you don't gouge the aluminum.
It's better to hear them than smell them buddy, go loose not tight
I need to stop you when you say you prefer the valves on the tighter side. Because really it depends on your feeler gauge choice and the spec range for the valve lash. Because if you are using a 0.25 mm feeler gauge and the valve lash spec range is 0.24 mm to 0.33 mm. and you go tight on a 0.25 feeler gauge... ... your lash will actually be less than 0.24 mm. So it really depends on your choice of feeler gauge. Also, if your valves are too tight , you will burn the valve and possibly the valve seat !!!!
You will have a misfire on cold start long before you ever burn a valve.
@@RepairGeek Talk to Tommy "TOASTER" about that. He roasted a valve on a 1998 CR-V back in 2000 when I worked for Honda. Has more to do with where the places are at when the engine is at operating temperature than it does on cold start. Valves expand with temperature. I realize you know this.
👍😎👍
Wrong! Before you loosen the nut, check with the feeler gauge if that valve even needs adjustment.
17:01
Uhhh. I will just sell the bugger.
Are you supposed to rotate the engine to a different cylinder number and then do those valves too? Or just the one valve? It’s just happenstance that the engine landed on #4 is it not?
I believe because he had done off camera the first 3 cylinders, on the second block he recorded, it should logically be on cylinder 4.
Do you need to turn the engine to each cylinder # before adjusting?? Or are you only adjusting one valve?
Was wondering the same thing, but I believe he covered that part before he started the adjustment right here; ua-cam.com/video/25ZdVvUMuy8/v-deo.html basically you have to turn the engine clock wise to go from one cylinder to another.