I used the 5821 Mr Gasket on those heads, the Assault versions. Worked out real good. Used the 1206s on another pair of NKBs, also same head. I have them on my daily driver and they make plenty of power. It runs pretty good.
You should also use Dykem or marker on the valve seat and not just the valve face to check for seat tolerances, if the valve is only making partial contact on the seat and you lap the valve 360* it will show a 360* contact patch on the valve face even though it’s not making complete 360* contact on the seat.
I'd also have to check each piston in the bore(valve reliefs, piston top thickness piston to piston and stroke are some of the factors). BUT I'd still only check all if I was doing a max compression build, to make sure that one cylinder wouldn't be over the limit. Far as I see it, there is no point in hurting 7 other cylinders to match one bad one. There are countless other differences cylinder to cylinder, so only making sure you don't exceed the limits of the fuel is my concern. And I don't do max effort cause I like to have room for bad fuel at the pump.
+ Great Video Boot.... I bought these exact heads, bare castings, a few years ago for $324 CAD set from AT Racing. I thought it was worth buying them to check them out, knowing I could send them back if they were crappy. After receiving them they visually looked pretty good and spec'd out very close too. The only issue I had was a few of the exhaust seats needed some minor work. I ended up putting them on a SBC 383 with 11.5-1 compression and hydraulic roller cam and ran them for two years. In a 2800lb street car and on the strip I ran 11 teens @ 118mph, naturally aspirated and didn't need to do anything else to them. I was actually really impressed and believe they are a great alternative to a good cast head or any other cheaper aluminum heads out there. Make a long story short, they actually performed much better than I would have expected. No matter who makes the heads I always check them for accuracy before installing. "Its cheap insurance".
Thx for the feedback! A few others commenting said that they found issues with AT racing castings. I got my sets from other ebay merchants, well idk where the 1st set came from but they got DNA boxes. So far I'm 1/1 and haven't checked my 3rd set out yet(also DNA boxes). I've herd good things bout the heads but until I run a set myself I can't make a judgment other than they look good by design.
There was a dude on utube that CCd those heads and they all came out pretty consistent. I'm sure the video is still up. The intake ports were slightly larger than advertised. Around 205cc.
I wouldn't use neither any of em "the way they come from across the pond"... I also am a well seasoned engine builder/head porter with two many sets of heads under my belt... before all the cnc machining was available we had to weld cut weld cut some more on floor then work the roof and flow bench the puss out of time. the deck finish on any of them don't satisfy my sealing concerns the taller port head would have a bunch less time involving porting ...i have cut more of them chinesium seats and guides out an built a banging set of heads out of them but tbt the money u think your saving won't add up at all if your looking for some quality heads
These are budget heads for a diy type build, like you said if your serious buy quality heads and have them done by a pro. Fine for a low miles/use/driven hotrod vs the cost of redoing a set of used heads
Well said!! Shane from Santa Clarita? Unfortunatley youll hear responses its not a race car they are fine. They dont understand importance of what you posted. Ive ported/flowed these but wouldnt trust my shortblock to a set. THink most close thier eyes and roll the dice hoping they "will be fine" cause they were cheap haha
From my comparison in the Third set video it looks like +.100 would work better. Also recently it has been recommenced to me by someone that they get better valvetrain geometry with that size. Last I know of at least one merchant that assembles them with +.100 valves
@@BOOT Thanks for the info. Nice videos I might add! Thanks for doing and sharing what we all want to do, but don't have the guts to follow through with.
Boot, unshrouding the valves should not raise compression ratio. In fact changes to the chamber may lower the compression ratio a small amount, done properly it could improve flow through the affected valve.
Not gonna be flow numbers on this set but maybe someday on another set tho not anytime soon. Dyno idk depends on my budget(still got another car I wanna build/work-on this year) after I get the car all tuned, 3 pulls isn't too much and as long as no other problems with the car come up. My channel isn't monetized at this time so I prefer to spend money on parts/tools and once the channel offsets my cost I'd be open to suggestions.
It kinda depends on your combo/use. Basically I got a set of standard length Elgin 2.02/1.60 valves off ebay but still haven't checked them on the head to see if I want/need to use longer. Springs depends on your cam/use and retainers, locator/cups, keepers/locks, shims n so on for those. I'll prob make an assembly video with the parts I use when I get there but things could change, at the time I actually assemble the head.
Your talking about the old versions with the tall ass intake port. Don't think they still make those. Probably millions still sitting in a warehouse somewhere tho. These heads work fine with a 1206 or the Mr Gasket he mentioned.
Super Victor intake ports line up with these heads pretty close too. I have a pair of these heads on my daily driver and it runs like a racecar. Smoked a Hellcat Charger in a old beat up gutted pickup truck. It's making over 500+hp. Also beat a 2010 Vette with mods. My heads were sold thru Skip White, I bowl ported them and used all good parts. Work pretty good.
Can't say how the low end of these 200cc intake runner heads would be on a 350 in a heavier 4x4, really depends on other combo stuff, use and your exp. I'd prob try a new set of GM vortec heads, they will be a lot better than 882's or maybe even the trickflow alum camelbacks.
Be careful buying knock offs. They've came a long way but it still doesn't add up to me when you could get a budget model from one of the big head manufacturers that are all assembled and ready to bolt on. How much money are you really saving by the time you dress these with good parts? If you really are on a budget get some junk yard vortex heads. You'd be way better off. I've seen so many instances where people buy junk knock offs only to replace them with good parts because the junk parts didn't last.
These casting have a good rep and are sold even under AFR brand. The parts that come on even good brand heads I don't use because I prefer different parts. It's not that the stuff I use is really high end just different. For example I prefer to pick my springs for my cam, use adjustable guide plates and pick the stud length and larger diameter, plus other stuff. If you don't like to or have the tools to set up your own heads, buy them assembled
It doesn't look like any of these heads on ebay atm, there are some OG type 68cc chamber. The merchant I got mine from sold out fast but search PH-SB350-200-64S and look for the best deal, some will be bare & others assembled. I'd maybe Avoid AT racing, a few commenting on my channel have had problems with their heads.
Dumb question I have a set of eBay heads and i need to replace the valve guides seals 3 years I have 2 are leaking what valve steam seals are you using
Listen, these heads with the dual bolt pattern intake, vortec bolt pattern, and O.G intake bolt pattern, don't procrastinate about it, you need to use the felpro 1255 vortec gasket. Oh, & Those exhaust gaskets are crap.
American heads are better! But these heads are fine for the ave hotrod. I actually just ordered some heads from an American co, so be sure to check it out in my future vids
American shit is turning to junk also. These ain't the good ole days anymore. Buy a brand new Super Victor intake and look how shitty it is. Brand new Strip Dominator about the same. I have a Professional Products singleplane that's 20yrs old and it's cast better than any new American intake I've bought in the last 5 years. Also have a 20yr old pair of Pro Topline heads that are cast better than a new RHS, EQ, or Dart. They came from New Zealand. Ever seen a pair of 80s bowtie heads? Rough as hell. The China shit is finally getting better. They could only sell so many sets of those early Pro Comp shit heads before word on the street shut them down. They had to step it up or go under. Hell, even AFR is selling a version of this head now. Lifetime warranty allegedly.
Thx for watching, check out my Cylinder Heads Playlist & Subscribe
ua-cam.com/play/PL7o4U7VWtLLc2cFgpyAE2_zQwuMBphoFc.html
I used the 5821 Mr Gasket on those heads, the Assault versions. Worked out real good. Used the 1206s on another pair of NKBs, also same head. I have them on my daily driver and they make plenty of power. It runs pretty good.
If you buy a use cylinder head from ebay ,do you have to get it resurfaced
Have you ever done small block Chevrolet air flow
You should also use Dykem or marker on the valve seat and not just the valve face to check for seat tolerances, if the valve is only making partial contact on the seat and you lap the valve 360* it will show a 360* contact patch on the valve face even though it’s not making complete 360* contact on the seat.
what are og heads?
Original set ua-cam.com/video/oFQ9VpkNonw/v-deo.html Think I have 5 1/2 sets of ebay heads atm LOL
ebay heads playlist, so far ua-cam.com/play/PL7o4U7VWtLLesuLff1PGzaiQD6-tzbhNe.html
Those look like the AFR copies.
They are Dart copies. If you want AFR copies, then supposedly those are the new Dart SHP heads and AFR Enforcers are same copies as these LOL
It would be interesting to know how big the ports are. Just one of those nice to know facts. Thanks for the video.
205cc average intake, 75cc exhaust.
With your way of ccing the heads, while the accuracy may be off a tad, you can still tell if all the chambers cc the same and make them match
I'd also have to check each piston in the bore(valve reliefs, piston top thickness piston to piston and stroke are some of the factors). BUT I'd still only check all if I was doing a max compression build, to make sure that one cylinder wouldn't be over the limit. Far as I see it, there is no point in hurting 7 other cylinders to match one bad one. There are countless other differences cylinder to cylinder, so only making sure you don't exceed the limits of the fuel is my concern. And I don't do max effort cause I like to have room for bad fuel at the pump.
Deck height sometimes it's not square or the crank
+
Great Video Boot....
I bought these exact heads, bare castings, a few years ago for $324 CAD set from AT Racing. I thought it was worth buying them to check them out, knowing I could send them back if they were crappy. After receiving them they visually looked pretty good and spec'd out very close too. The only issue I had was a few of the exhaust seats needed some minor work. I ended up putting them on a SBC 383 with 11.5-1 compression and hydraulic roller cam and ran them for two years. In a 2800lb street car and on the strip I ran 11 teens @ 118mph, naturally aspirated and didn't need to do anything else to them. I was actually really impressed and believe they are a great alternative to a good cast head or any other cheaper aluminum heads out there. Make a long story short, they actually performed much better than I would have expected. No matter who makes the heads I always check them for accuracy before installing. "Its cheap insurance".
Thx for the feedback! A few others commenting said that they found issues with AT racing castings. I got my sets from other ebay merchants, well idk where the 1st set came from but they got DNA boxes. So far I'm 1/1 and haven't checked my 3rd set out yet(also DNA boxes). I've herd good things bout the heads but until I run a set myself I can't make a judgment other than they look good by design.
Id be interested to see how they CC.
There was a dude on utube that CCd those heads and they all came out pretty consistent. I'm sure the video is still up. The intake ports were slightly larger than advertised. Around 205cc.
Chambers all came in at around 64cc, exhaust ports measured 75cc. Pretty good castings overall. Way better than the Pro Comps from years back.
I wouldn't use neither any of em "the way they come from across the pond"... I also am a well seasoned engine builder/head porter with two many sets of heads under my belt... before all the cnc machining was available we had to weld cut weld cut some more on floor then work the roof and flow bench the puss out of time. the deck finish on any of them don't satisfy my sealing concerns the taller port head would have a bunch less time involving porting ...i have cut more of them chinesium seats and guides out an built a banging set of heads out of them but tbt the money u think your saving won't add up at all if your looking for some quality heads
These are budget heads for a diy type build, like you said if your serious buy quality heads and have them done by a pro. Fine for a low miles/use/driven hotrod vs the cost of redoing a set of used heads
Well said!! Shane from Santa Clarita?
Unfortunatley youll hear responses its not a race car they are fine. They dont understand importance of what you posted.
Ive ported/flowed these but wouldnt trust my shortblock to a set. THink most close thier eyes and roll the dice hoping they "will be fine" cause they were cheap haha
do these use the +.100 valves?
From my comparison in the Third set video it looks like +.100 would work better. Also recently it has been recommenced to me by someone that they get better valvetrain geometry with that size. Last I know of at least one merchant that assembles them with +.100 valves
@@BOOT Thanks for the info. Nice videos I might add! Thanks for doing and sharing what we all want to do, but don't have the guts to follow through with.
@@DeuceDropper7 NP & Thx! I hope it helps.
Do you plan to unshrowd the intake valves?
I like to build low comp stuff so not much
Boot, unshrouding the valves should not raise compression ratio. In fact changes to the chamber may lower the compression ratio a small amount, done properly it could improve flow through the affected valve.
Any Chance on ever getting flow numbers or dyno results?
Not gonna be flow numbers on this set but maybe someday on another set tho not anytime soon. Dyno idk depends on my budget(still got another car I wanna build/work-on this year) after I get the car all tuned, 3 pulls isn't too much and as long as no other problems with the car come up. My channel isn't monetized at this time so I prefer to spend money on parts/tools and once the channel offsets my cost I'd be open to suggestions.
What's the price tag on the 2.0?
Got this bare set for $371, taxes n shipped
Cool, where can we get the right size valves and springs?
It kinda depends on your combo/use. Basically I got a set of standard length Elgin 2.02/1.60 valves off ebay but still haven't checked them on the head to see if I want/need to use longer. Springs depends on your cam/use and retainers, locator/cups, keepers/locks, shims n so on for those. I'll prob make an assembly video with the parts I use when I get there but things could change, at the time I actually assemble the head.
What site on eBay did you find them
No one makes gaskets that fit those junk heads.
Yes they do.
Your talking about the old versions with the tall ass intake port. Don't think they still make those. Probably millions still sitting in a warehouse somewhere tho. These heads work fine with a 1206 or the Mr Gasket he mentioned.
5821 Mr Gasket Ultra Seal fits perfect.
Super Victor intake ports line up with these heads pretty close too. I have a pair of these heads on my daily driver and it runs like a racecar. Smoked a Hellcat Charger in a old beat up gutted pickup truck. It's making over 500+hp. Also beat a 2010 Vette with mods. My heads were sold thru Skip White, I bowl ported them and used all good parts. Work pretty good.
It's just a Dart Pro 1 without the name.
I seen them on wish for less than 200$ each
Paid $371.00 for this pair/set(2.0) and just paid $341.11 for the 3.0 set I've not made a vid of yet
Shipped
I have a 78 k5 4x4 I’m thinking about a set for its 4 bolt 350. It has 882 heads but really runs great just no grunt.
Can't say how the low end of these 200cc intake runner heads would be on a 350 in a heavier 4x4, really depends on other combo stuff, use and your exp. I'd prob try a new set of GM vortec heads, they will be a lot better than 882's or maybe even the trickflow alum camelbacks.
Be careful buying knock offs. They've came a long way but it still doesn't add up to me when you could get a budget model from one of the big head manufacturers that are all assembled and ready to bolt on. How much money are you really saving by the time you dress these with good parts? If you really are on a budget get some junk yard vortex heads. You'd be way better off. I've seen so many instances where people buy junk knock offs only to replace them with good parts because the junk parts didn't last.
These casting have a good rep and are sold even under AFR brand. The parts that come on even good brand heads I don't use because I prefer different parts. It's not that the stuff I use is really high end just different. For example I prefer to pick my springs for my cam, use adjustable guide plates and pick the stud length and larger diameter, plus other stuff. If you don't like to or have the tools to set up your own heads, buy them assembled
Nice video, where can I purchase these 2.0
It doesn't look like any of these heads on ebay atm, there are some OG type 68cc chamber. The merchant I got mine from sold out fast but search PH-SB350-200-64S and look for the best deal, some will be bare & others assembled. I'd maybe Avoid AT racing, a few commenting on my channel have had problems with their heads.
@@BOOT Which seller did you get them from?
Dumb question
I have a set of eBay heads and i need to replace the valve guides seals 3 years I have 2 are leaking what valve steam seals are you using
@@BOOT it's me again, lol, will these heads work on a 1987 350 block without too much trouble? I would appreciate your input. Thanks
@@samtruglio6544 They will work on a 1987 350 block, but the 87 intake won't work on the ebay heads I think
Listen, these heads with the dual bolt pattern intake, vortec bolt pattern, and O.G intake bolt pattern, don't procrastinate about it, you need to use the felpro 1255 vortec gasket. Oh, & Those exhaust gaskets are crap.
What exhaust gaskets?
I bet that Chinese writing says AFR as cast lol. It's the same head.
LOL I already forgot bout that writing! It'll be interesting to see if someone translates it someday!
Those heads are junk.. never buy China heads . Save your money and buy a good set of American built heads.
American heads are better! But these heads are fine for the ave hotrod. I actually just ordered some heads from an American co, so be sure to check it out in my future vids
American shit is turning to junk also. These ain't the good ole days anymore. Buy a brand new Super Victor intake and look how shitty it is. Brand new Strip Dominator about the same. I have a Professional Products singleplane that's 20yrs old and it's cast better than any new American intake I've bought in the last 5 years. Also have a 20yr old pair of Pro Topline heads that are cast better than a new RHS, EQ, or Dart. They came from New Zealand. Ever seen a pair of 80s bowtie heads? Rough as hell. The China shit is finally getting better. They could only sell so many sets of those early Pro Comp shit heads before word on the street shut them down. They had to step it up or go under. Hell, even AFR is selling a version of this head now. Lifetime warranty allegedly.
Translation... Cheap stuff for silly round eye...
Bwahahahaha