I bought a pair of 205cc assualt racing aluminum heads for $388 to my door and they are drilled for both intakes and seem to have a thick casting. So far I'm liking them
I've had to do the same with a set of AFR195's. I don't take anything for granted anymore; maybe back in the 1970's, but definitely not now( maybe I didn't know better back then, lol). Planning on getting a set of assembled Blueprint SBC heads from Speedway Motors soon. Will be interesting to see how they are. Thanks for sharing the content!
Finished checking all the valves and seats while this was uploading, only that 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve need faced and all 8 exhaust seats need a touch up or new valve job.
See, no matter what it is you buy, you will always need to redo the valves/valve seats or guides. It's better to do it before you install. Why waste a perfectly good pair of head gaskets. Just put the new heads flat on a table. Spray brake clean or carburetor cleaner into the ports and let it sit for an hour or two. If there is any leakage it will show itself. You have to understand these heads are mass-produced. Valve guides get put in at one station valve seats get installed in one station and they get cut in another station. I doubt very much if any company has a person do a head from beginning to end it would take up too much equipment end time and that is why they do it production Style one station one process. Not even though you try to make the heads perfect you can't because every time to head is removed from a machine and then bolted back into another machine no matter how much you want it sent you a correctly you always off a couple of ten thousands and they all accumulate. I still say best bet for least amount of headaches is to purchase a bare set of heads. Purchasing a pair set of cylinder heads allows you to pick and choose so that you don't have to settle for China valves and crappy rocker arms. You buy the heads you want bare, buy the valves that will suit your needs valve to match the cam and lifters, titanium retainers, rocker arms, etc. Now you take everything to the shop. Most likely the first thing they will do is insert tool into the valve guide and check the valve seat. That's why the valve guides has to be in good condition and within spec when doing old used heads. All the measurements are made from the Centerline of the valve guide. If they check all the valve guides to verify that they are within spec and after they check all the valve seats they can make any corrections that are necessary then use valve lapping compound and seat the valves. (Do yourself a favor and buy a quality product from a reputable company because even though they tell you that the valves are Manley, they could be knock offs from some online site that sells stuff made in China, and the first time the valve sees 6500 RPM the stem in head separate. lol) In the end you will basically have a blueprinted head with better valves, rocker arms and right springs for you cam you want to run rather than having to get a cam that matches the springs that came with the heads. Not the best way the build an engine. Start bare. You will thank yourself and have more hair when your done. Plus no more on and off with the heads.
@@stevecobratei8538 awesome thanks. im getting mine bare doing them just like this 208cc actual intake runners, 84cc exhaust runners, adding phosphor bronze guide tubes, and cutting to use racemaster valves 2.05" intake, and 1.6" sodium filled exhaust valves. respectively.
@@stevecobratei8538 wow! opinions and onions and a noun. Some people think an onion is a ounce in their opinion, 16 onions a pound. Yet, 16 garlics doesn't make them a noun. A known doesn't make one to know the difference of the two onions is counted. Your video is like counting garlics as weight, but wait can't see what an onion weighs, but to garlics is clearly queer when measuring head for a port job that needs lapping after a valve job. I suggest go to a beautician to have your guides curled and your head shaved. If two new ports line up gaskets as to a look out, the ships port as you knew whats known is why a machinist isn't a mechanic working on ship's window to see the port at bay is known a noun, docking location of a ship is not a parking lot.
@@stevecobratei8538 Good heads have the same tolerance in measurements of the componits from all angles, size, and the weights equal to each of the same. And as production goes in manufacturing factories many variances are cause and effect related. Parts are made to work within specification tolerance. Its not who did what to which part it the combination of all the parts assemebled being equal and having the same tolerance. Cylinderheads are made in cast molds and machined by automated machining processes. A good machinist finds the imperfections of runnout (out of round moving parts) and bad casting as the the molds change during production processes. The centerline of measurements is the shortest distance between two points and manufactured process imperfections not being identical to each of the same. So that is where Quality Work is the proof of perfection through analysis. Balancing is a correction for machinework and materials. When reciprocating parts have different weights and size they wear out instead of wearing in. Properly made parts have 100,000 miles and show no signs of wear because they wore in. Parts that fail or wear out is from improper design, materials, maintenance, and applications. Most wear is from out of balance parts not made of proper material or design as well as lubrication and application. Parts made exactly the same do not need to be balanced. A machinist knows how to recognize and correct these types of part failure throughout the designed life cycle of the materials purpose. Heat, stress, strength, flexability, rigidity, material composition and structural design are proven through experimentation of manufacture products purpose evaluated by functional longevity. That is why QUALITY is not expensive, it is priceless. Keep up the good work and remember a mechanic is only as good as his tools and experiance of knowing what doesn't work properly and ability to apply what is known looking to see the cause of failure. Like changing the brake pads doesnt fix the reason they wore out. Nor does poining the finger at what we dont know or understand. Keep an oo
@@stevecobratei8538 Rottler EMP69 makes the complete cylinderhead without anyone touching the head, even port and polishing and it is the only machine that can make the heads the same without runnout. True Quality work releasing the hidden Horse Power Hot Rodders are always looking for and dont care what it cost. Bottom line after bench racing stops. Rottler starts and good machinist watch it finish and in a sense are discusted that they cant find anything wrong with it.
I just bought a set of these heads bare for 258.00 on ebay I have all the tooling to grind seats and valves but I bought them bare so I could put quality parts in them. just for a street car 68 Camaro project I figured I they were cheap enough to try a set out
awesome thank you for your informative helpful videos. i'm getting some and installing Phosphor bronze tubes and racemaster 2.05" intake valves, sodium filled 1.6" exhaust valves.
Don't feel baf, even more expensive $600 - $1000 bare or $1400 - $2000 heads all have the same problems. I installed a pair of heads, cam, lifters and intake on a 1979 Chevy 350. Name brand heads. (not going to name because they all have the same problems) The Results should have been equivalent to approximately 360 rear wheel horsepower. The owner drove it for six to eight weeks. And brought it back. I can tell when I took it for a ride. It just didn't have the power should have. So I did a leak down test. Every single cylinder leaked. Supposed to pull the heads. Nothing wrong with the valve train, so I laid the heads on their sides and filled all the intake ports with carburetor cleaner. All 4 intake valves on one head leaked, the other head 3 valves leaked bad and the other one just barely. Of course, the exhaust was no better. No matter what brand you buy before you install it in the vehicle. You need to disassemble it. And check your valve guides and your valve to seat alignment. Remember, You're dealing with a mass-produced product. So sometimes the people do not take pride in their work. Sometimes it's just Friday and time to get the hell out of it. But the workmanship is just not what it should be. Now, of course if you went to an engine builder with your heads and they will go through the head make it 100% Correct. And then let them assemble them with your good valves, valve springs, retainers and such. If you are lucky enough to get a pair of heads. That are actually perfectly machined and the valve seat and seal properly. It's amazing or you ask them to "Queen" a pair of heads, there are some other names they call lt. That means hot rod magazine does a test on cylinder heads. They contact a different cylinder head manufacturers. Which in turn? Get a pair of cylinder heads that meet the requirements of the test. And they build that set. For that test they do not usually just take a set off the shelf. And if they do they will go through that set to make sure. The valves are seating properly and the ports have good flow numbers.
Yah a friend of mine had issue with some new top of the line heads, like you said gotta check it out who ever makes em! I plan to start leak down testing heads after install before intake or headers, it's time but could save me a lot of trouble. Those mags are always gonna be best case scenario on power even if we had the same parts, cause like you said they get the gems n we roll the dice!
Dude, please make some videos. I'm a millenial that is preparing to do a head job on a late 70's small block. I'm handy, but out of my league to say the least.Machine shop is telling me it be safer to buy a pair of bolt on heads from them for $600, or spend $400 to clean and inspect my current heads.
@@JH-tk6ge - Depends on whether want numbers matching original parts... plus do their heads have same size and shape combustion chambers, ports, and valves? Swap failure prone 2 piece welded stock valves for 1 piece valves if upping RPMs in a performance engine... are their valves/seats tested for leaking?
They look like the same heads as assault racing in nkb heads, just without the vortec bolt pattern. Assault and nkb heads are proheader castings. they are a dart Platinum 200 copy. They also have a hundred thousands raised intake runners.
Back when I looked into my heads I saw the assault heads n figured these were pretty much the same minus the missing machining for vortec intake. Although some I've seen have rectangle flange port openings n some have vortec like mine. Ports are copies but I've been told from a few diff porters that the metal isn't as hard/good. Vortecs are a raised runner head and a vortec intake lines up for my set, check out the vid I made after.
@@BOOT it's good aluminum, the seats are just a little soft, but still respectable heads. Way better than procomp speedmaster trash. Mine has raise intake ports but are a 1205 style. I had to notch the gasket bolt holes for tgem to work. I ported and matched the ports on a untouched victim Jr intake. Those look identical to mine, I bet they are proheader castings.
The ports are waaaay better than the procomps I've seen. My ports at the flange are trapezoid(vortec) shape, 1205 doesn't quiet fit, I'd have to use a 1206 but the vortec 1255 will work with a bit of trimming.
@@BOOT i would put money on them being proheader castings. the deck water passages & the exhaust side looks identical to mine. intake port openings are a little different & no vortec mounting holes, but other than that they are identical. all they had to change fort the molds was the intake ports. why in the hell they didn't put the intake bolt holes in them is a little crazy though. i bet a vortec intake would fit those ports perfectly.
I kinda wanna see if I can make the vortec intake work and my next vid will be about the intakes. Cause I went to do something and was like I gotta deal with this intake situation 1st! I do have another couple air gaps another RPM and a Dart SHP that might fit the head ports width closer so I'd only have to adjust the height.
port matching is every thing, use the gasket that match s the intake best, clean up the casting slag in the the China heads, the deal is to have the intake ports match the , the head just dont bell mouth the ports.
Hey any new head today needs inspection ! I just bought BARE Edelbrock heads and they were dropped shipped to high volume porter in PA / he said the Speed Masters he does for his Mopar customers are better quality out of the box. We all know Vic Edelbrock has passed away and his daughter sold the company so quality control has suffered.
I'm faced with the same problem. That 1255 was way too thick for my speedway intake 1-147-007. My from and rear intake clearance seemed way too big. My cheap aluminum eBay heads are drilled for vortec or non vortec intakes. Not sure what I'm gonna do. Might try to find a thinner 1255.
I've had better luck checking the valvejob by putting the dykem on the seats, then drop the valve in and lightly turning it on the seat just by turning the stem with my fingers about 90*. VERY light pressure is all it takes. You should see your witness mark all the way around. By putting the dykem on the valves or seats and spinning it all the way around, a single high spot on the valve (or seat) will leave a witness mark all the way around and might give you a false sense of comfort. Of course Prussian Blue is best, but it seems few people know how to use it these days.....but everyone has a Sharpie. I also always check the stem fit in the guides, installed heights, valve seats (fully seated, etc.) seal fit, spring seat fit (on head and with the seal installed), retainer fit on the springs, etc., etc. I've ran into a myriad of issues with imported castings. A few on domestic aftermarket heads but not NEARLY as much.
This set is still in the boxes but I'm working on another set of ebay heads atm, they already passed my basic inspection n checks in another video I made. Once I'm done I'll clean, check spring height and assemble them. Then I'll leak down test on the engine before installing the intake or exhaust.
Cost a few hundred extra but every single bolt, stud and but in my sbc build is ARP! No worries of messed up threads on the screws lol now obviously that isn't practical when building multiple engines but I've stock piled parts for 18 months so I had time to get the best of everything except for the heads lol I did buy the 205cc assualt racing sbc heads that are pretty much the same s these but they do actually have thick decks and no flaws yet besides some casting line inside the runners that need cleaned up but well worth the money I think for like 388 to my door for a pair and only waited 3 days. Probably go with darts down the road but had to try these heads for the price
Good call on ARP hardware, I know they have entire engine kits. LOL I've seen brand new crooked cheap no-brand 7/16 rocker studs. I don't have a sonic checker but they appear to be thicker than old procomp's I've seen and also been told by a guy who ports. From what I saw the assault heads are pretty much the same, still not sure what the diff between their 200cc/205cc heads is tho. idk how your heads are but mine will get a slight seat blend and clean up but if your not comfortable diy then they are good out of the box, of course once checked over. Someone else told me they got 8000 miles street on them w/o issue but idk their exact setup. Can't beat a quality brand head I'd like to compare AFR's to these.
I'm not a fan of head studs for mild builds or if you plan to head swap/service in vehicle But if so ARP. A good bolt set should be fine but they need to be the correct length and have the threads sealed(use washers with alum heads). ARP are great fasteners but you can find cheaper, I got a Jegs head bolt set that looks very similar quality to ARP just with a Jegs logo on the heads. Summit has house brand(possibly made by ARP) bolts and Manley has sets as well I think.
Maybe he says this in his video....but whether you buy a bare $150 Chinese head or an assembled set of $1200 Dart Pro 1's.....you still need to pull them apart and check everything. No such thing as a ready to run head from the internet unless it is coming straight from a quality machine shop.
Oh yah tons of options, some prefer bare heads to pick out their own parts n others assembled. Just got another bare set of different heads off ebay I'll be making a vid of shortly.
Probably better than a junk yard set of iron heads oem,,, but not as good as name brand. Id still have a machine shop check any new heads in detail and do a valve job for any set of heads.... an engine is too expensive to just slap on "assembled" heads and with my luck i better do that.
In my opinion these ebay BARE heads are fine for diy budget builds and if you have a quality shortblock I suggest name brand heads and also to check or have them checked
So what’s the best course of action then ?????? Mess with off brand name heads or spend a bit more for finished name brand u can trust that everything matches up and are durable. OR ???????
You can't trust anything really gotta check em out yourself or have someone check them. Any brand of heads before bolting them on. Offshore heads have gotten better and some USA brands are know to be problematic. For some guys a cheap head that'll only see moderate power and cruising but may not last forever s fine. Others may want the brand name, proven performance record and maybe some support if things don't check out. Long as you know what your getting and are prepared to deal with it. Quality is a moving target and so is the answer. I just bought a new set of heads last night!
It's hilarious. I bought at racing world 190cc ebay heads (Procomp mailing label), and they are vortec intake runners (listing said square port) drilled for 12 bolt manifolds only. gahhh! I'm so lost. My edelbrock Performer RPM intake doesn't fit at all.
@@BOOT Thanks. They look identical to mine. Looks like I'm going to drill a vortec intake! Fun! Thanks for covering this anomaly. It's nowhere else on the internets.
Thanks! If im just doing head gaskets on an old work truck do I need to bother with a machine shop/ new heads? Can I get off with a backyard job? clean them, leak check them, maybe lap them a bit, and check witha flat edge, use ARP bolts. I'm not keeping this junker forever.
There is no right answer to this post. But since you mentioned not keeping it I suggest you do it by the book for the next guy. ARP makes a quality USA made head bolt and I use many of their fasteners. That said bolts alone won't fix seal or make you faster. Unless the extra clamping force is need to keep seal, then I suggested cleaning or purchasing new oem or other quality cheaper bolts. IE Jegs, Summit or Manley have cheaper ARP like head bolts.
Did you try a 1286 gasket? Holes are slotted, but if it fits both port & bolt pattern, your spray adhesive should keep them put when manifold is set. You want to drill intake #2 for those heads it looks like - port alignment on #3 is definetely not going on those heads [except you weld up/redrill that bolt pattern to match the heads]. Anyway... what kind of heads are those?
Nope didn't look at 18 degree(heads & intake) gaskets but thx for the suggestion I may give it a try. I already drilled a vortec dual plane intake(see video) for the OG ebay head set but I'm gonna use a NEW 2.0 ebay set I bought(check my channel for the video). The heads are generic SBC aluminum ebay heads and it seems there are at least two types with mild differences(mainly the intake flange ports), of course many rebrand these castings and possibly machine the heads themselves.
This is the reason I bought my heads from an engine builder that builds heads and engines everyday. I paid $800 for the pair and they are right straight out of the box.
most of the aftermarket head guys ,buy cores from China, the valve seats dont line up with the guides so you got to line up every thing and cut new valve seats, the heads that come fully assembled are junk, pour some carb cleaner down the ports and watch the water fall, the springs are junk so are the keepers and valves
This set is the only one of the three I've bought so far to not pass a seat check. All three sets I've bought are BARE/unassembled so I can pick out my own small parts. I have a new AFR bare set I'll be checking out shortly
How is quality of valve job and seats?!? Springs and valves ? Id fear a valve dropping or a seat /valve messed up not sealing right. Dropping a valve = engine rip
I've only herd of dropping seats with procomp's. There are a few good places that put their names on this casting but I think they do their own seat machining. I suggest you watch the video
Any gasket-ed 0.750 reach plug should physically work fine. I like to try different brand plugs and heat ranges to see what best works for a combo. I plan to try some different NGK on ebay alum heads this spring. I'll also try some Autolite prob. Actually been meaning to make a spark plug video about the exact plugs that I'm gonna try with my ebay heads, just it's down on the list of need to get done videos.
Looking at this stuff more and more I feel ill just have a heads and intake guy set me up with the top end cost more but at least it's gonna work and work good. Not that this doesn't but I was looking at floteks but think I'll go with trick flow. I'm a Ford guy but this stuff still applies
Having a GOOD PRO do it can save you a lot of headache and give you the comfort of knowing it's right! I'm a diy budget just for fun hobby guy but if I was super competitive I'd pay a PRO top dollar for all his experience & testing with his expensive machines.
@@JonOffgrid Building a OBS extended cab I see. Can't be certain since I've never tested them on the same setup vs vortecs but if your wanting more of a driver/cruise/low end I'd go with a new set of vortecs, think they are bout the same price. Just depends on your cam n other goals tho
Why not rebuild the heads you had? Obviously the ebay cheapies are going to cost alot more by the time you have made them good, (reseat, re cut, new valves, new guides). Anyway good vid to show that new heads are going to be crap no matter who makes them. Branded will be polluted with Chinesium too.
AFR, Blueprint Engines and many others use these castings. Also Several people have told me the ebay heads have worked WELL! While this set is not ideal the cost to rebuild another set, would be the same or more these days. And that is what I did before buying ebay heads But the supposedly good machine shop screwed up my heads and wasted that money because it needs to be redone now, plus gaskets, fluids and time. I own 5 sets of ebay heads because they are a Good design for the price and if you know what your doing, you can make them GREAT!!!
Ok finally checked that 1.5 valve and it showed on the opposite edge, still a good suggestion and worth the check. If I had to run either, the 1.5 had a better contact but I'll take em to a local m-shop to get cut for the 1.6
@@BOOT Looking at buying a set of the Assault Racing Products heads. Pretty sure I bought a set of these back around 2012......to see how good they were. Seemed like a pretty good head. Valve seats were all over the map on height and had to do quite a bit of clean up on the bowls....but overall a very nice casting. Most heads you have to do all this anyway.
@@jerrylauber7311 I know the generic alum sbc castings found on ebay are offered by several diff places. Haven't check KMJ's website in awhile but did look at some awhile back that looked the same. Skip white is another I think. I have't checked the spring heights on a full set of ebay heads yet but same as you said, other brand heads have been all over the place
@@BOOT I have a gauge that uses a dial indicator that checks from head gasket surface to face of the valve. This ensures proper valve to valve relief clearance. It has a dowel that hooks into a head bolt hole and I can check every valve. Spring height is another issue. The original heads I picked up before were from KMJ.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(
You get what you pay for. By the time you get them straightened out, you could have spent a little more $ and bought name brand heads that are proven to be good.
It didn't take/cost much to do what little they needed and still saved A LOT! Even bought 5 more sets of these heads since. Lots of people use/sell these castings with their name on them, even Summit Racing
Ever actually do anything with these heads? Or just smokin ganja and making videos, and hoarding sbc cylinder heads? 🤣 One vid says porting vortecs, careful you'll get a rep as click bait bro.
LOL Nope Mon! Check out my other vids for info, just posted a pic the other day on the Community tab. I work on stuff and make vids when I have the time :)
There are much better heads. Still a set is 8k and going on another mild engine, no smoke! That's not bad for some budget rides that don't even see 2k a year.
@@joejackson9172 Let say they go 10k and they are done. Now lets say you spend 3-4 times as much for good heads and they go 30-40k but they will prob need refresh sooner cause of the hard driving & race parts most would do with those nice high end heads. Well prob never even seen 10k and be a garage queen or blow up from too much sauce. You want 100k+ build a stock engine.
Thx for watching, check out my Cylinder Heads Playlist & Subscribe
ua-cam.com/play/PL7o4U7VWtLLc2cFgpyAE2_zQwuMBphoFc.html
TOTALLY convinced me to spend more after watching this. At 55 I don't have the patience I once had for diy (but I do love a great deal on gear!!)
It's hard to pass up a good deal but yah gotta account for any extra expense(even time) vs paying more up front.
I seen pore valvejobs on complete Trick Flow and AFR heads, always check up the heads, no matter what brand...
I bought a pair of 205cc assualt racing aluminum heads for $388 to my door and they are drilled for both intakes and seem to have a thick casting. So far I'm liking them
I drilled my vortec intake for the outer old style bolt pattern but it would have been nice to not have both patterns on these.
Looks like they are $680 from their site . . . where'd you get the deal ??
$388 is bare I'll assume just like the 2nd set I recently got for $371
I've had to do the same with a set of AFR195's. I don't take anything for granted anymore; maybe back in the 1970's, but definitely not now( maybe I didn't know better back then, lol). Planning on getting a set of assembled Blueprint SBC heads from Speedway Motors soon. Will be interesting to see how they are. Thanks for sharing the content!
NP I've had the same luck with top name stuff, so have my friends. The luck of the draw no matter how much you spend these days.
Afr 195 enforcers or eliminator heads? Curious what issues they had that needed addressed
Finished checking all the valves and seats while this was uploading, only that 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve need faced and all 8 exhaust seats need a touch up or new valve job.
See, no matter what it is you buy, you will always need to redo the valves/valve seats or guides.
It's better to do it before you install. Why waste a perfectly good pair of head gaskets.
Just put the new heads flat on a table. Spray brake clean or carburetor cleaner into the ports and let it sit for an hour or two. If there is any leakage it will show itself. You have to understand these heads are mass-produced. Valve guides get put in at one station valve seats get installed in one station and they get cut in another station. I doubt very much if any company has a person do a head from beginning to end it would take up too much equipment end time and that is why they do it production Style one station one process. Not even though you try to make the heads perfect you can't because every time to head is removed from a machine and then bolted back into another machine no matter how much you want it sent you a correctly you always off a couple of ten thousands and they all accumulate. I still say best bet for least amount of headaches is to purchase a bare set of heads. Purchasing a pair set of cylinder heads allows you to pick and choose so that you don't have to settle for China valves and crappy rocker arms. You buy the heads you want bare, buy the valves that will suit your needs valve to match the cam and lifters, titanium retainers, rocker arms, etc.
Now you take everything to the shop.
Most likely the first thing they will do is insert tool into the valve guide and check the valve seat. That's why the valve guides has to be in good condition and within spec when doing old used heads. All the measurements are made from the Centerline of the valve guide.
If they check all the valve guides to verify that they are within spec and after they check all the valve seats they can make any corrections that are necessary then use valve lapping compound and seat the valves.
(Do yourself a favor and buy a quality product from a reputable company because even though they tell you that the valves are Manley, they could be knock offs from some online site that sells stuff made in China, and the first time the valve sees 6500 RPM the stem in head separate. lol)
In the end you will basically have a blueprinted head with better valves, rocker arms and right springs for you cam you want to run rather than having to get a cam that matches the springs that came with the heads.
Not the best way the build an engine.
Start bare. You will thank yourself and have more hair when your done. Plus no more on and off with the heads.
@@stevecobratei8538 awesome thanks. im getting mine bare doing them just like this 208cc actual intake runners, 84cc exhaust runners, adding phosphor bronze guide tubes, and cutting to use racemaster valves 2.05" intake, and 1.6" sodium filled exhaust valves. respectively.
@@stevecobratei8538 wow! opinions and onions and a noun. Some people think an onion is a ounce in their opinion, 16 onions a pound. Yet, 16 garlics doesn't make them a noun. A known doesn't make one to know the difference of the two onions is counted. Your video is like counting garlics as weight, but wait can't see what an onion weighs, but to garlics is clearly queer when measuring head for a port job that needs lapping after a valve job. I suggest go to a beautician to have your guides curled and your head shaved. If two new ports line up gaskets as to a look out, the ships port as you knew whats known is why a machinist isn't a mechanic working on ship's window to see the port at bay is known a noun, docking location of a ship is not a parking lot.
@@stevecobratei8538 Good heads have the same tolerance in
measurements of the componits from all angles, size, and the weights equal to each of the same. And as production goes in manufacturing factories many variances are cause and effect related. Parts are made to work within specification tolerance. Its not who did what to which part it the combination of all the parts assemebled being equal and having the same tolerance. Cylinderheads are made in cast molds and machined by automated machining processes. A good machinist finds the imperfections of runnout (out of round moving parts) and bad casting as the the molds change during production processes. The centerline of measurements is the shortest distance between two points and manufactured process imperfections not being identical to each of the same. So that is where Quality Work is the proof of perfection through analysis. Balancing is a correction for machinework and materials. When reciprocating parts have different weights and size they wear out instead of wearing in. Properly made parts have 100,000 miles and show no signs of wear because they wore in. Parts that fail or wear out is from improper design, materials, maintenance, and applications. Most wear is from out of balance parts not made of proper material or design as well as lubrication and application. Parts made exactly the same do not need to be balanced. A machinist knows how to recognize and correct these types of part failure throughout the designed life cycle of the materials purpose. Heat, stress, strength, flexability, rigidity, material composition and structural design are proven through experimentation of manufacture products purpose evaluated by functional longevity.
That is why QUALITY is not expensive, it is priceless. Keep up the good work and remember a mechanic is only as good as his tools and experiance of knowing what doesn't work properly and ability to apply what is known looking to see the cause of failure. Like changing the brake pads doesnt fix the reason they wore out. Nor does poining the finger at what we dont know or understand. Keep an oo
@@stevecobratei8538 Rottler EMP69 makes the complete cylinderhead without anyone touching the head,
even port and polishing and it is the only machine that can make the heads the same without runnout. True Quality work releasing the hidden Horse Power Hot Rodders are always looking for and dont care what it cost. Bottom line after bench racing stops. Rottler starts and good machinist watch it finish and in a sense are discusted that they cant find anything wrong with it.
"Rambling" but good rambling ! Thanks and keep it going!
I just bought a set of these heads bare for 258.00 on ebay I have all the tooling to grind seats and valves but I bought them bare so I could put quality parts in them. just for a street car 68 Camaro project I figured I they were cheap enough to try a set out
A guy told me he has over 8000 miles on a set in a mild build no problems!
awesome thank you for your informative helpful videos. i'm getting some and installing Phosphor bronze tubes and racemaster 2.05" intake valves, sodium filled 1.6" exhaust valves.
Just subbed! I like how thorough you are and you get right down to business. No stupid cornball joking or goofing off, keep on the good work
Thx! So...maybe don't watch some of my other videos LOL I don't think I've gotten too bad with joking around
Don't feel baf, even more expensive $600 - $1000 bare or $1400 - $2000 heads all have the same problems. I installed a pair of heads, cam, lifters and intake on a 1979 Chevy 350. Name brand heads. (not going to name because they all have the same problems)
The Results should have been equivalent to approximately 360 rear wheel horsepower. The owner drove it for six to eight weeks. And brought it back. I can tell when I took it for a ride. It just didn't have the power should have. So I did a leak down test. Every single cylinder leaked. Supposed to pull the heads. Nothing wrong with the valve train, so I laid the heads on their sides and filled all the intake ports with carburetor cleaner. All 4 intake valves on one head leaked, the other head 3 valves leaked bad and the other one just barely. Of course, the exhaust was no better. No matter what brand you buy before you install it in the vehicle. You need to disassemble it. And check your valve guides and your valve to seat alignment.
Remember, You're dealing with a mass-produced product. So sometimes the people do not take pride in their work. Sometimes it's just Friday and time to get the hell out of it. But the workmanship is just not what it should be. Now, of course if you went to an engine builder with your heads and they will go through the head make it 100% Correct. And then let them assemble them with your good valves, valve springs, retainers and such.
If you are lucky enough to get a pair of heads. That are actually perfectly machined and the valve seat and seal properly. It's amazing or you ask them to "Queen" a pair of heads, there are some other names they call lt. That means hot rod magazine does a test on cylinder heads. They contact a different cylinder head manufacturers. Which in turn? Get a pair of cylinder heads that meet the requirements of the test. And they build that set. For that test they do not usually just take a set off the shelf. And if they do they will go through that set to make sure. The valves are seating properly and the ports have good flow numbers.
Yah a friend of mine had issue with some new top of the line heads, like you said gotta check it out who ever makes em! I plan to start leak down testing heads after install before intake or headers, it's time but could save me a lot of trouble. Those mags are always gonna be best case scenario on power even if we had the same parts, cause like you said they get the gems n we roll the dice!
Dude, please make some videos. I'm a millenial that is preparing to do a head job on a late 70's small block. I'm handy, but out of my league to say the least.Machine shop is telling me it be safer to buy a pair of bolt on heads from them for $600, or spend $400 to clean and inspect my current heads.
@@JH-tk6ge - Depends on whether want numbers matching original parts... plus do their heads have same size and shape combustion chambers, ports, and valves? Swap failure prone 2 piece welded stock valves for 1 piece valves if upping RPMs in a performance engine... are their valves/seats tested for leaking?
Ran 7.55 in 1/8 with these on a chinese sid roller 383 in a 3660lb 4 door Pontiac
What kind of Chinese heads did you run on 383
Absolutely beautiful car man I wish I had it
They look like the same heads as assault racing in nkb heads, just without the vortec bolt pattern. Assault and nkb heads are proheader castings. they are a dart Platinum 200 copy. They also have a hundred thousands raised intake runners.
Back when I looked into my heads I saw the assault heads n figured these were pretty much the same minus the missing machining for vortec intake. Although some I've seen have rectangle flange port openings n some have vortec like mine. Ports are copies but I've been told from a few diff porters that the metal isn't as hard/good. Vortecs are a raised runner head and a vortec intake lines up for my set, check out the vid I made after.
@@BOOT it's good aluminum, the seats are just a little soft, but still respectable heads. Way better than procomp speedmaster trash. Mine has raise intake ports but are a 1205 style. I had to notch the gasket bolt holes for tgem to work. I ported and matched the ports on a untouched victim Jr intake. Those look identical to mine, I bet they are proheader castings.
The ports are waaaay better than the procomps I've seen. My ports at the flange are trapezoid(vortec) shape, 1205 doesn't quiet fit, I'd have to use a 1206 but the vortec 1255 will work with a bit of trimming.
@@BOOT i would put money on them being proheader castings. the deck water passages & the exhaust side looks identical to mine. intake port openings are a little different & no vortec mounting holes, but other than that they are identical. all they had to change fort the molds was the intake ports. why in the hell they didn't put the intake bolt holes in them is a little crazy though. i bet a vortec intake would fit those ports perfectly.
Yah idk why they didn't machine the holes. A vortec intake does, check out the video I made where I drilled older pattern holes in it.
Use the air gap. Just easier than drilling. They may have vortec ports but they have similar chamber to a Dart head.
I kinda wanna see if I can make the vortec intake work and my next vid will be about the intakes. Cause I went to do something and was like I gotta deal with this intake situation 1st! I do have another couple air gaps another RPM and a Dart SHP that might fit the head ports width closer so I'd only have to adjust the height.
Now that'd make an interesting vid
port matching is every thing, use the gasket that match s the intake best, clean up the casting slag in the the China heads, the deal is to have the intake ports match the , the head just dont bell mouth the ports.
I agree port alignment not gasket match
Try a felpro 1266 intake gasket its thicker and will line up better with regular intake
The 1255 is pretty thick and I don't mind trimming it to fit.
take those China springs retainers and valves and put them down the outhouse
I like bare heads so that I can pick out my own small parts, good ARP studs and adjustable guide plates as well
Hey any new head today needs inspection !
I just bought BARE Edelbrock heads and they were dropped shipped to high volume porter in PA / he said the Speed Masters he does for his Mopar customers are better quality out of the box.
We all know Vic Edelbrock has passed away and his daughter sold the company so quality control has suffered.
Yep 👍 I've heard it before, check ALL brands !!! Make sure the valves don't leak for starters
I'm faced with the same problem. That 1255 was way too thick for my speedway intake 1-147-007. My from and rear intake clearance seemed way too big. My cheap aluminum eBay heads are drilled for vortec or non vortec intakes. Not sure what I'm gonna do. Might try to find a thinner 1255.
You can get those same heads with both intake wholes
Check out my 2.0 video for the standard rectangle intake port version
I've had better luck checking the valvejob by putting the dykem on the seats, then drop the valve in and lightly turning it on the seat just by turning the stem with my fingers about 90*. VERY light pressure is all it takes. You should see your witness mark all the way around.
By putting the dykem on the valves or seats and spinning it all the way around, a single high spot on the valve (or seat) will leave a witness mark all the way around and might give you a false sense of comfort.
Of course Prussian Blue is best, but it seems few people know how to use it these days.....but everyone has a Sharpie.
I also always check the stem fit in the guides, installed heights, valve seats (fully seated, etc.) seal fit, spring seat fit (on head and with the seal installed), retainer fit on the springs, etc., etc. I've ran into a myriad of issues with imported castings. A few on domestic aftermarket heads but not NEARLY as much.
This set is still in the boxes but I'm working on another set of ebay heads atm, they already passed my basic inspection n checks in another video I made. Once I'm done I'll clean, check spring height and assemble them. Then I'll leak down test on the engine before installing the intake or exhaust.
Get the Chevy performance fast burn gaskets
Thx for the info brother
Cost a few hundred extra but every single bolt, stud and but in my sbc build is ARP! No worries of messed up threads on the screws lol now obviously that isn't practical when building multiple engines but I've stock piled parts for 18 months so I had time to get the best of everything except for the heads lol I did buy the 205cc assualt racing sbc heads that are pretty much the same s these but they do actually have thick decks and no flaws yet besides some casting line inside the runners that need cleaned up but well worth the money I think for like 388 to my door for a pair and only waited 3 days. Probably go with darts down the road but had to try these heads for the price
Good call on ARP hardware, I know they have entire engine kits. LOL I've seen brand new crooked cheap no-brand 7/16 rocker studs. I don't have a sonic checker but they appear to be thicker than old procomp's I've seen and also been told by a guy who ports. From what I saw the assault heads are pretty much the same, still not sure what the diff between their 200cc/205cc heads is tho. idk how your heads are but mine will get a slight seat blend and clean up but if your not comfortable diy then they are good out of the box, of course once checked over. Someone else told me they got 8000 miles street on them w/o issue but idk their exact setup. Can't beat a quality brand head I'd like to compare AFR's to these.
@@BOOT Should I buy chinese ebay stud kit for $45, or ARP bolt kit for $88? Gen 1 sbc, with mild modifications, I think it has cast iron truck heads.
I'm not a fan of head studs for mild builds or if you plan to head swap/service in vehicle But if so ARP. A good bolt set should be fine but they need to be the correct length and have the threads sealed(use washers with alum heads). ARP are great fasteners but you can find cheaper, I got a Jegs head bolt set that looks very similar quality to ARP just with a Jegs logo on the heads. Summit has house brand(possibly made by ARP) bolts and Manley has sets as well I think.
Maybe he says this in his video....but whether you buy a bare $150 Chinese head or an assembled set of $1200 Dart Pro 1's.....you still need to pull them apart and check everything. No such thing as a ready to run head from the internet unless it is coming straight from a quality machine shop.
Truth!
Or add a little bit more money go to jegs and get a set of promaxx 190 heads for cheep
Oh yah tons of options, some prefer bare heads to pick out their own parts n others assembled. Just got another bare set of different heads off ebay I'll be making a vid of shortly.
BOOT wish the LS world had those options
When using these heads will stock 350 length push rods work . Or do need to be longer. Thanks
Unless you buy a preassembled crate engine pushrod should always be checked. There are several factors that can affect it's length.
You might try adding some entertainment... but veryuseful. I gave it a thumbs up.
Thanks, planing to do some track stuff this coming season. I still got a lot to learn bout making videos.
I was watching your newer vid too. What intake did you go with for the application?
Probably better than a junk yard set of iron heads oem,,, but not as good as name brand. Id still have a machine shop check any new heads in detail and do a valve job for any set of heads.... an engine is too expensive to just slap on "assembled" heads and with my luck i better do that.
In my opinion these ebay BARE heads are fine for diy budget builds and if you have a quality shortblock I suggest name brand heads and also to check or have them checked
So what’s the best course of action then ?????? Mess with off brand name heads or spend a bit more for finished name brand u can trust that everything matches up and are durable. OR ???????
You can't trust anything really gotta check em out yourself or have someone check them. Any brand of heads before bolting them on. Offshore heads have gotten better and some USA brands are know to be problematic. For some guys a cheap head that'll only see moderate power and cruising but may not last forever s fine. Others may want the brand name, proven performance record and maybe some support if things don't check out. Long as you know what your getting and are prepared to deal with it. Quality is a moving target and so is the answer. I just bought a new set of heads last night!
It's hilarious. I bought at racing world 190cc ebay heads (Procomp mailing label), and they are vortec intake runners (listing said square port) drilled for 12 bolt manifolds only. gahhh! I'm so lost. My edelbrock Performer RPM intake doesn't fit at all.
Not sure where the original ebay set I have came from since I got them 2nd hand but the 2.0 set I just got is not from at racing ebay merchant.
@@BOOT Thanks. They look identical to mine. Looks like I'm going to drill a vortec intake! Fun! Thanks for covering this anomaly. It's nowhere else on the internets.
LOL when putting away this set after comparing to my 2.0 set for that video, I just noticed the boxes say DNA motoring.
Having same problem with intake. Which did you use?
I drilled an ebay dual plane vortec intake for older bolt pattern somewhat. Made a video about it and also another on how I prep intakes.
So what is the best Chinese heads to build I'm looking for aluminum SBC heads but to many options let me know
Check out my other videos
Thanks! If im just doing head gaskets on an old work truck do I need to bother with a machine shop/ new heads? Can I get off with a backyard job? clean them, leak check them, maybe lap them a bit, and check witha flat edge, use ARP bolts. I'm not keeping this junker forever.
There is no right answer to this post. But since you mentioned not keeping it I suggest you do it by the book for the next guy. ARP makes a quality USA made head bolt and I use many of their fasteners. That said bolts alone won't fix seal or make you faster. Unless the extra clamping force is need to keep seal, then I suggested cleaning or purchasing new oem or other quality cheaper bolts. IE Jegs, Summit or Manley have cheaper ARP like head bolts.
Did you try a 1286 gasket? Holes are slotted, but if it fits both port & bolt pattern, your spray adhesive should keep them put when manifold is set. You want to drill intake #2 for those heads it looks like - port alignment on #3 is definetely not going on those heads [except you weld up/redrill that bolt pattern to match the heads]. Anyway... what kind of heads are those?
Nope didn't look at 18 degree(heads & intake) gaskets but thx for the suggestion I may give it a try. I already drilled a vortec dual plane intake(see video) for the OG ebay head set but I'm gonna use a NEW 2.0 ebay set I bought(check my channel for the video). The heads are generic SBC aluminum ebay heads and it seems there are at least two types with mild differences(mainly the intake flange ports), of course many rebrand these castings and possibly machine the heads themselves.
This is the reason I bought my heads from an engine builder that builds heads and engines everyday. I paid $800 for the pair and they are right straight out of the box.
most of the aftermarket head guys ,buy cores from China, the valve seats dont line up with the guides so you got to line up every thing and cut new valve seats, the heads that come fully assembled are junk, pour some carb cleaner down the ports and watch the water fall, the springs are junk so are the keepers and valves
This set is the only one of the three I've bought so far to not pass a seat check. All three sets I've bought are BARE/unassembled so I can pick out my own small parts. I have a new AFR bare set I'll be checking out shortly
How is quality of valve job and seats?!? Springs and valves ? Id fear a valve dropping or a seat /valve messed up not sealing right. Dropping a valve = engine rip
I've only herd of dropping seats with procomp's. There are a few good places that put their names on this casting but I think they do their own seat machining. I suggest you watch the video
You didn't mention this in the video or on the description but were the plugs you thought fit the best Autolite 3924's?
Any gasket-ed 0.750 reach plug should physically work fine. I like to try different brand plugs and heat ranges to see what best works for a combo. I plan to try some different NGK on ebay alum heads this spring. I'll also try some Autolite prob. Actually been meaning to make a spark plug video about the exact plugs that I'm gonna try with my ebay heads, just it's down on the list of need to get done videos.
Thanks!
Every aftermarket head or gasket have some type of small flaws to them.i would b happy with larger intake runners.
In my 2.0 set video I noticed that a lip at the top of the intake flange wasn't machined, if it was the gasket would fit better.
but you are right there are normally some oddities with gaskets or the part itself
Looking at this stuff more and more I feel ill just have a heads and intake guy set me up with the top end cost more but at least it's gonna work and work good. Not that this doesn't but I was looking at floteks but think I'll go with trick flow. I'm a Ford guy but this stuff still applies
Having a GOOD PRO do it can save you a lot of headache and give you the comfort of knowing it's right! I'm a diy budget just for fun hobby guy but if I was super competitive I'd pay a PRO top dollar for all his experience & testing with his expensive machines.
@@BOOT yeah what I might do is buy OOTB tw170 and have then taken apart and checked and put back together. Nothing too serious
How about a 1405 exhaust gasket
I'd rather not make the flange opening any larger because I like to use smaller tube headers or in this case manifolds. Just depends on the combo!
The 1404 actually seem like there gonna work with my pace setter truck headers and seem to match up perfect almost to the heads
@@jjmccloud Make sure your header flanges are good n flat, not much crush with these type gaskets.
What size rocker studs work for those heads?
7/16-14 Base, top depends on your rockers 3/8 or 7/16
I have eBay jj d port heads
What is the diff
D exhaust ports?
wow thanks for sharing
NP if you like this vid, check out my other head vids and I should have another one up sometime next month
@@BOOT ok cool i been thanking about putting some on my truck i am building on my channel
@@JonOffgrid Building a OBS extended cab I see. Can't be certain since I've never tested them on the same setup vs vortecs but if your wanting more of a driver/cruise/low end I'd go with a new set of vortecs, think they are bout the same price. Just depends on your cam n other goals tho
@@BOOT it runs but wen i build the motor i didn,t like the heads it,s all i could find at the time
Are you ever going to do a fallow up video of these heads?
Yup, the plan is to mod them this winter and hopefully install them in the spring!
Awesome.
Why not rebuild the heads you had? Obviously the ebay cheapies are going to cost alot more by the time you have made them good, (reseat, re cut, new valves, new guides). Anyway good vid to show that new heads are going to be crap no matter who makes them. Branded will be polluted with Chinesium too.
AFR, Blueprint Engines and many others use these castings. Also Several people have told me the ebay heads have worked WELL! While this set is not ideal the cost to rebuild another set, would be the same or more these days. And that is what I did before buying ebay heads But the supposedly good machine shop screwed up my heads and wasted that money because it needs to be redone now, plus gaskets, fluids and time. I own 5 sets of ebay heads because they are a Good design for the price and if you know what your doing, you can make them GREAT!!!
Gotta part 2 coming?
I'm working on one but it may be a few weeks.
@@BOOT dang lol I'll keep an eye out
@@jjmccloud Gonna be over the winter, too much going on atm and I don't wanna rush it.
I have a 75. How did these turn out?
Not had time to mess with it, I will mod them this winter and some other heads.
See if the exhausts are cut for 1.5" valve.
You know it did cross my mind but I was like nah..... I'll go dig one out and try. Still how much yah think the 1.5 would hurt HP vs the 1.6?
If the port has a good shape not that much.
Ok finally checked that 1.5 valve and it showed on the opposite edge, still a good suggestion and worth the check. If I had to run either, the 1.5 had a better contact but I'll take em to a local m-shop to get cut for the 1.6
Save your money and buy name brand.
I just bought another set n will be making another vid
💣🔥🔥🔥
Thank you for the info but this guy is just way too slow and draws out a video to long
There might be another guy who has a style more to your liking, check out other channels and Thx!
Are there any flow numbers on any of these cheap Ebay heads? I emailed the deepmotor crew and they had no idea what flow numbers even are.
There are some generic ebay head flow numbers that I found posted in the Procomp comparison video but as always head to head I'm sure these vary
@@BOOT Looking at buying a set of the Assault Racing Products heads. Pretty sure I bought a set of these back around 2012......to see how good they were. Seemed like a pretty good head. Valve seats were all over the map on height and had to do quite a bit of clean up on the bowls....but overall a very nice casting. Most heads you have to do all this anyway.
@@jerrylauber7311 I know the generic alum sbc castings found on ebay are offered by several diff places. Haven't check KMJ's website in awhile but did look at some awhile back that looked the same. Skip white is another I think. I have't checked the spring heights on a full set of ebay heads yet but same as you said, other brand heads have been all over the place
@@BOOT I have a gauge that uses a dial indicator that checks from head gasket surface to face of the valve. This ensures proper valve to valve relief clearance. It has a dowel that hooks into a head bolt hole and I can check every valve. Spring height is another issue.
The original heads I picked up before were from KMJ.
@@jerrylauber7311 I usually don't have to worry bout piston to valve with the mild stuff I run
You sound remarkabley like burt Reynolds
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by
reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated
central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down
all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From
2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as
exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox
oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no
investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even
created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(
Vortex heads with a standard intake = problems. Good luck
Check out the vid after, I mod a vortec dual plane to fit old bolt pattern.
There actually called " Vortec" not Vortex........
This video is 16 minutes too long
Thx for your feedback, what 16 minutes would you have left out?
You get what you pay for. By the time you get them straightened out, you could have spent a little more $ and bought name brand heads that are proven to be good.
It didn't take/cost much to do what little they needed and still saved A LOT! Even bought 5 more sets of these heads since. Lots of people use/sell these castings with their name on them, even Summit Racing
Cringed and threw up a lil as soon as I read DNA motoring in the description.
These same casting come under many names, AFR is one.
Ever actually do anything with these heads? Or just smokin ganja and making videos, and hoarding sbc cylinder heads? 🤣 One vid says porting vortecs, careful you'll get a rep as click bait bro.
LOL Nope Mon! Check out my other vids for info, just posted a pic the other day on the Community tab. I work on stuff and make vids when I have the time :)
You get what you pay for. Ebay cheap aluminum heads are garbage. Period. Valve guides are junk. Your motor will be smoking within 2000 miles.
There are much better heads. Still a set is 8k and going on another mild engine, no smoke! That's not bad for some budget rides that don't even see 2k a year.
@@BOOT 8k???
8,000 miles
@@BOOT I know what the 8 k meant. I was saying that's embarrassing
@@joejackson9172 Let say they go 10k and they are done. Now lets say you spend 3-4 times as much for good heads and they go 30-40k but they will prob need refresh sooner cause of the hard driving & race parts most would do with those nice high end heads. Well prob never even seen 10k and be a garage queen or blow up from too much sauce. You want 100k+ build a stock engine.
I'm out
chineez junk