I Warned You About That Set Screw... It's a DEATH TRAP!!! (Click Bait?)
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- ✅ SHOP NOTES: That's right, your Shopsmith has a hair trigger that ideally you'll be able to avoid, but if your quill return spring breaks or if the depth gauge gets out of alignment, you might not have a choice but to tempt fate. Ok, I'm being overly dramatic. Yes, you do need to approach this carefully, but it's totally doing about and you've got this!
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Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
🟢 My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: amzn.to/3sm3NcJ
🎬 This video from Jacob Anderson covers a bit more about replacing the quill return spring: • The Shopsmith Mark V q...
🎬 In this video is from Mike, from the Shopsmith forums, Mike is replacing the quill return spring on a 1940's-50's 10ER. While the techniques aren't exactly the same, many of his tips are totally transferable to modern Shopsmith tools: • Shopsmith model 10 qui...
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A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a way of supporting the channel through commission. If you purchase a product or service with the links I provide, there is no additional charge to you. I always recommend shopping around for a better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings! Scott
#Shopsmith #QuillReturnSpring #ShopsmithDeathTrap
I was inside that little round spring box once. 🤣🤣 I cant say it was the funniest of time either.. But there are videos out there by the famous Shop-Smith builder named Jacob Anderson. He really does a great job Showing folks just how to to ,Maintain and repair every nut and bolt on their mark 5!!
Yes, I linked to one of his videos in the video description. All of his content that used to be pay-to-view is available for free on UA-cam thanks to him releasing them himself. Cool move as he went off into retirement. Scott
Nicely done. I spent 4 years teaching at the Albany, NY Shopsmith Academy. I'm guessing there are still a lot of owners who wish it was still there. The service videos you have made are very valuable since servicing a headstock is certainly a challenge. They have brought back many good memories of time spent with my hand inside the "hole". You might want to add an important reminder to ALL those that require putting your hand inside the headstock....don't forget to unplug it first!! Good job!! I'll go ahead and watch them all. It has been 36 years since I did that gig! ;)
You are kidding about that working about the switch! I bet if you looked closely enough that we all have scars from yanking our hand out past the lobes on the hole!
When I had to rewind the spring I looked at all the videos I could find but none of them gave a clear close up picture and explanation as you had in a shorter video. You've explained to me why I need to take a second look at all the different washers to make sure their in the right place and were the spare goes, lol 😁
Glad to hear it! It's worth a second look. Scott
Dang that LOOKED easy!
Would you not call that a modified conical washer?
The first time that I did it… I pulled out my manual… looked at the exploded sketch and started wrenching. That was before digital photos or video…
I spent every evening for the rest of the week pouring over the manual… trial and error… (more errors than successes)… attempting to put it together correctly!
A few years later, I learned that a simple loosening of the set screw, in the top key way of the quill, would have cured the drag issue I set out to fix!
If I’d had video back then… life would have been much simpler!
I’m upgrading my planer to a spiral cutter… you can bet I have the camera catching every move!
Thanks Scott!
Video really is an amazing tool. Oh, how I wish I could have recorded all the people who taught me what I know. Just think of the little nuggets of wisdom that we missed. I look forward to catching your vid. Scott
I recently got ambitious enough to repair the quill return spring on my 1950’s era Mark V. I can’t say it was fun, nor can I say that a clock spring was the simplest idea they could’ve come up with. Like a lot of them, it broke at the hole that indexes the stud on the shaft. I drilled a new hole, only to see the stud slip out of it. So I drilled two smaller holes on either side of the larger hole, and cinched it all down with bailing wire. That seems to be hold it it fast.
Glad you found a way to make it work. The good news is that all those parts are available new and used, so it’s hard to fail. Keep pressing on! Scott
I just successfully fixed my quill spring and reassembled everything!! I certainly couldn't have done it without this video. Thanks for sharing!
That’s great, Dale! What’s the next project? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Not sure what the next project is, but I added dust collection to my Professional Planer, and cleaned and waxed the cast iron table. The only issue I have with it is while running, the table slowly creeps down. I think I need to tighten my chain.
Thanks for showing this section of the headstock. I have never had to work on these parts of my 1980 Mark V, so it was all new to me. Good Job!
Happy to share and you are quite fortunate. Scott
Scott this comment is a thank you for a video you shared about changing out the casters. I bought the ones you put in the comments of that video. I ordered the ones on Amazon econo and they worked great. Again thanks for all you do. I installed them differently in my shed where shopsmith lives. I used a set of 2 sheave blocks to raise the machine on one side at a time. Did not need to turn over. Great job as always.
You are welcome, Tom. I’m glad they are working out and thanks for the thank you! Scott
Great information. It's the small things that you don't know that usually get you in trouble when working on machinery.
So true. Thanks for watching and commenting, Mike. Scott
This is great information, thoroughly covered despite technical difficulties and miscues. I don't have related issues on my SS 500 or SS 520, but might be needing to clean up the drive, and maybe the belt. Seeing the bits and intricacies of the feed is intimidating, and encourages thoroughly researching the steps before "fiddling and diddling" in there!
I totally understand what you are saying, Sean. I remember the first time I tore into mine I slid the parts onto two screwdrivers as I removed them, just to make sure I didn't get them mixes up. We are so fortunate to have cell phones with cameras to document these things today. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings, oh! Oh! Oh! I never thought of transferring parts onto a screwdriver! Double reward on this vid! Yer the b̵e̵a̵s̵t̵ … err, I shudda said best!
Well, bless your heart, Scott! I am sorry that you had technical difficulties with your sound. You still turned out a very good video. 👍 ❤😊 Thanks!
Thanks, Mark.
Thank you for another great tip. I learn something new with every video you post.
Glad to hear it!
Wow…. Perfectly clear explanation! For some unknown reason my quill feed lock mechanism no longer locks! It extends & comes back, but just won’t lock. I’m at a loss, could it be simply one of those special washers is no longer in place? Help please.. it’s a real pain not being able to lock that feed in place.
That sounds exactly right. Either the large washer is missing or in the wrong location, or the lobes in the casting have broken off. That's a rare situation, BTW! Take a closer look at it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you. We’ve never opened it up before, so I don’t think it’s the large internal conical washer. I’ll take things apart & look. Does it matter if quill lock is on the opposite from the way urs is? Tks!
Thank you for this information. I was working on a 1956 Greene Shopsmith and the internal washer just wouldn't come out. It appears that the washer was installed then the key. I ended up taking a small file and filling on the key for a good half hour until I could get the washer to clear. Your sure don't want to beat on it to come out. Gordon
Wow, what a headache!
Well, I now know my quill spring is broken. Didn't realize it was supposed to pull back if not locked down. Good to know for my Mark V 500.
Whoops! Well, now you know. Scott
OOPS & Phew. It is all good now! BUT…after using my Shopsmith to do some molding, I noticed the quill was out 1/4” and when I checked it, I found it loose and no spring tension. Long worried story later, I found the set screw for the quill jammed up high enough to no longer contact its channel AND the set screw for the quill tensioner spring loose. Going to your youtube discussion of the spring tensioner, I felt confident enough to reset everything. Thankfully, the spring was fine. Retightening the set screw, I adjusted the quill back in, retightened its set screw and all is working fine.
I know what caused it. I thought the molding speed was the same as the shaper speed on the new PowerPro (not knowing it was under the Table Saw setting). If my table had wings the thing would have taken off and flown. I was lucky and no damage was done other than my pride. Yes the molder head will make a Shopsmith dance at 10,000 rpms BUT NEVER AGAIN. I found out the truth the next day while reading the POWER TOOL WOODWORKING FOR EVERYONE and using the Shopsmith Forum on molding. Feel free to do a show warning that the MOLDER SPEEDS ARE UNDER THE TABLE SAW SETTINGS!
Thank you for your shows as sending the motor back would not have been a pleasant thing, Ken
Cant wait to see the install. And how you set spring tension
Soon your patience will be rewarded... Thanks for watching, Peter. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings ty iam at that point had head totally apart. Going back together ty
@@MyGrowthRings I might wait to take mine apart until AFTER u post the update! 😀
@@markb8954 yes wait i have mine all apart got the spring tension some what correct but there must be a trick i dont no
Great video, never taken that apart. Good to learn not to tighten the the depth stop down when the quill is extended.
Dave, you can tighten the depth stop when the quill is extended, but don't tighten the quill lock on the front of the headstock if the quill is out of the headstock. Scott
Oh I get it now, thanks for the clarification
Dang! I love when you get into the guts; looking forward to the follow-up!
Glad to hear you liked it. Scott
Another hit out of the ball park.
Always informative.
Thanks, Dale. Scott
Years ago I removed the set screw, you've been talking about, and replaced it with a sloted set screw. Can't loosen it with the hex wrench.
Not a bad idea ai all!
At 5:07 you can see the markings left by the knurled cup set screw on the spring housing. According the set screw document that is correct in that location. I wonder if folks who have slipping issues might have a different type of set screw in that location somehow?
That could totally be a problem. Great point, Tom.
Thanks for this very informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
Perfectly Timed Scott! Two weeks ago, I purchased a Greenie with a bad return spring. The catch is that it's an A casting (no side access hole) that has been upgraded to a Power Pro. I've spent a few days staring at it and now I can ask you for your knowledge.
Do I need to remove the power pro motor and power supply to get to the dome washer or is there some other way to ensure it doesn't drop out of sight? At the moment I'm thinking of attaching a string to the shaft before I withdraw it. I'm thinking that way the Dome washer will be on the string. If I then attach the string to the new shaft the dome washer is on the new shaft. Is there another way or is removing the motor my only option?
Marc
Oh my, that’s the worst possible combination for accessing that washer! Yes, you’ll need to put the machine into drill press mode and insert the table from behind to act as a support for the motor pan. From there you can drop the motor and access all of the parts you’ll need to access. Such a pain, but you can do it! Scott
Resetting the quill spring is a right of passage for SS owners, one which, I'm embarrassed to admit, I've had to do twice, and it's a MAJOR PITA! LOL There is a certain sense of accomplishment when you get it though...
Gary, I totally agree with your assessment. Scott
Is it any worse than replacing the poly belt?
@@brentbyas8357 Less involved, because the Quill removal is easy enough, but it's really hard to hook the button that holds the end of the spring. Just when you think you have it,...it uncoils and you have to start over!
Exit music? Gettin' fancy, Scott.
How'd ya like it?
@@MyGrowthRings Excellent.
Sorry about your Mic issue, hope you get it sorted for next time!
Me too!
MY depth stop has stopped working properly and will go slightly farther than I set it to. Maybe I will now have the guts to mess with it. I have never removed any of these parts before.
Ken, 5-1 odds that one or both of the washers are backwards or in the wrong position. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I'll check but I've never taken lock knob off. Maybe washers need to be replaced. It's a mid 80s 500 upgraded to 510
So it should be about four rotations to properly set the spring tension when reassembling? I am going through a 510 that the depth stop had rotated out of alignment. It didn’t look like the lead plug had ever been removed on either quill or depth stop, so maybe it wasn’t tightened at the factory? It was made in October 1992.
Yes, that’s correct about the cranks on the handle before reinstalling the quill. There’s a chance it wasn’t tight enough, but the spring barrel can creep a bit over time and with overzealous impacting of the depth stop. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I still wonder about filing a very small flat spot where the setscrew goes, that way it won’t move.
@@timbo389 Perhaps, but you also don't want to weaken the walls of the spring barrel. I've seen soe where the setscrew was overtightened and the cast aluminum walls of the barrel crumbled.
Can't reach into the casing with a Power Pro. Larger motor is in the way.
You are correct, Terry. That requires a whole different approach that we’ll talk about in the follow up. Scott
Would not simply tightening the quill lock keep the spring from unwinding?
I think that is dangerous. The quill lock compresses two lobes on either side of the quill against the quill so that it is gripped tightly. Without the quill in place you can over extend those lobes and snap them off. Then you are shopping for a new headstock casting.
Not really, if you goal was to rotate the drum back into alignment.
I'm not even sure who I was replying to with this comment! Tom is absolutely correct. Scott
At 6:10 words are hard!
Shudda had Lysol doing the narrative!
A lesser man would have edited that out. ;-)
@@danasmith8950 I was close...
Scott Markwood beside another Scott Markwood... Talk about double trouble.
Way too much Scott Markwood if you ask me.
My spring tension is s a little loose can I just tighten it a bit?
Meaning that it doesn’t snap back as you feel it should? Yes, if there’s more spring to be had you can advance the quill out of the headstock and give her a little more tension, assuming you have the length of spring to spare. Scott
If as you show I remove the quill and then rotate the handle say 1/4 turn then put the quill back in I might be ok?
@@IPING4U Yes, that should do the trick. And don’t forget to wax the quill.
@@MyGrowthRings I just bought an almost unused 510. Got the Jointer and band saw too they also look unused but time has taken a slight toll. Need some attention but I'm going to sort it out.
@@IPING4U that’s fantastic! Take your time going through the alignment process, because you shouldn’t assume that any of that was done properly. Also, take a look that I have titled “before you turn on your Shopsmith”, because it has some information that is critical for setting up the foundation of a good Shopsmith.
Another good videro.
Thanks, Brad. Scott
terrifying. my chances of doing the procedure and getting it re-assembled right approaches zero
I don’t believe that! I’ll show you some tips in the follow up video. Scott
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