Hi Scott, I bought my 510 from you many moons ago 1n 86. I was the man who put it in a 81 CJ 5 Jeep. It has been all over and finally immigrated to Indiana. I Still love my 510.
@@MyGrowthRings well...I finally got around to trying the feather board again and it turns out I’m still confused. It appears that your lock knob is on the fence side of the stop. Then you appear to lock down the feather board. When I tighten that knob there is nothing for the little L-bracket underneath the feather board to grab onto. Therefore the only thing applying pressure against the feather board and workpiece is the spring. Wish I could include a picture so I could show the parts and setup.
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, the stud is there. I referred to it as a "stop". If I put the knob mechanism to the right of it (towards the fence), it seems like the knob serves no purpose because when I tighten it, there's nothing that it tightens against. If I put the knob to the left of the stud, I can use it to keep the featherboard away from the the fence - which seems useless to me. What I saw in the video is that you pressed the featherboard against the workpiece slightly and then tightened the knob. That makes sense to me but when I do it, the knob doesn't lock the featherboard.
@Dana Smith Hummm. I wonder if the square part at the bottom of the threaded part beneath the knob needs to be rotated? You should be able to apply pressure against the board and slide the knob outward until it hits the stud and at that point lock the knob. If it’s not striking the pin then either rotate it or perhaps the feather guard itself is sitting too high. A pic from the side would help. You can email me at scottmarkwood(at)gmail.com
Once again, having had my vintage Shopsmith for decades, learning to use it correctly is making me like it more. Thanks for the reminder to not joint short pieces.
Yes, Shopsmith does offer a free accessory with the purchase of a new Mark V or Mark 7. It was offered in a webinar that I attended, hosted by Doug Reid last summer, and a Zoom meeting I attended, hosted by Mike Young back in August of this year. And yes, the bandsaw is the sexiest tool, drop dead sexy, lol. The jointer is essential in most of my woodworking. I wouldn't want to work without it.
That's still a great deal and I'm glad they still offer it. We used to have one-quarter of the years where they would throw in a shop set-up kit that had $500 worth of shop supplies, such as clamps, glue, finishes, sandpaper, etc. It was an excellent deal for anyone getting started in WW.
Thank you for going over the jointer. This it seems is not show cased often on the SS like you said ( not sexy ) but key to starting many projects. I have a stand alone 1950s that was given to me but I still need to refurbish my dads from the mark 5. Rusted solid lol. A shame but I’m up for the task. Blades look like they never saw a days use. Your eye for detail is a huge asset to me on these machines. Weather it’s how to use or maintain or history lesson and personal tips. The urethane on the beds peaked my interest immediately!!!! This is out of the box thinking. Plus the other alternatives. I wax my beds and that may be where I stay but none the less very cool school of thought.
Thank you for making all of these videos! I love them. I have a jointer I just put back into service and mounted it on a power station for a large table build I am doing. I cleaned it up, sharpened and set the blades, and de-rusted and waxed it all. I also built a larger/taller aux fence and today I built an outfeed table for it - which works great! It is really working to help me joint these large/long boards for the table top by myself with no snipe and makes the process much more stable and I think safer as well. I can send a pic of the outfeed table if you want. I attached it (mine is older and does not have the ledge on the back) by drilling and countersinking two small holes for machine screws in the tail of the jointer - which some people might not want to do - I am just glad I did not screw it up.
I'd love to see pics. You can send them to me at ScottMarkwood(AT)Gmail(dot)com Also, do you have a Mark V? If so I reccomend using the Mark V to power the jointer because the top speed of the Power Station is far below the normal speed of a jointer when powered on the Mark V. Just a thought. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks. I looked in the book I got with the power stand and went to Tractor Supply to buy the right (2") pulley size. Seems to work pretty well. I think the motor sheave on the power station was 4 or 4.5". I'll send the pics now.
This or another video you spoke of cutting the oil poly with mineral spirits. I don't recall, however, whether you said with what to cut (50/50) the water-based poly. Thanks, and appreciate your channel!
Hey Tom. While you can thin water-based poly you can't thin it by much. You can use either water or mineral spirits with Varathane poly, but only up to 10%, so I gave the can a splash of mineral spirits and did a quick wipe on, wipe off, leaving just a film. Scott
I sure enjoy your vids! Not sure if I missed something but in some you talk about things I would like to see but they sometimes are skipped over. Example: tension spring on the jointer blade guard. Application of the jointer Polly clear coat. Sanding off the rust of the jointer tables. Keep up the good work! John from Ocala
Hey John, the video where I applied the polyurethane to the jointer is here: ua-cam.com/video/FnTPtNAwREI/v-deo.html The video where I sanded the rust off the jointer is here: ua-cam.com/video/-FI06EjqQPY/v-deo.html You are correct, I don’t believe I covered the guard spring except for in this video: ua-cam.com/video/OvfKgNtxsR4/v-deo.html
Making some picture frame stock over the past weekend. Decided to challenge myself to make the rabbit and decorative front bevel on the jointer this time as opposed to the table saw or shaper/speed increaser. This jointer is an older model (Vandalia sticker on the Manga guard) which came to me used and I added the rear blade cover and coupler guard some time ago. As I lowered the infeed table in successive passes to achieve a 1/4 inch deep rabbit, SCREECH! The knives dug into the rear blade cover. I had to prop up the guard to avoid it contacting the blades. PTWFE4 page 79 does not cover any special notes on this guard while rabbiting. Be great to see a video on proper jointer rabbits. Bonus video idea, dating components and manuals via the Vandalia vs Dayton address. Additional note, I did replace the "fence tilt quadrant" some time ago as the old one had stretched to the point where the end of the fence lifted more than an inch off the table. Maybe I mounted the guard in reference to the old quadrant and is now too low? Also the "fence tilt quadrant" is one of Shopsmith's "17 Most Frequently Ordered Shopsmith Service Parts" and is currently on sale from Shopsmith through 1/07/2020. (I do not work for Shopsmith)
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, I installed both the hub guard and the rear blade guard. These came as an upgrade kit from Shopsmith, which I no longer see on their website.
A lot of metal working types use BLO on bare metal, rarely do they describe how they are doing it. Pity the jointer won't take the extension table from the Mark5/500 saw table. Or maybe it will, I don't have one to play with (yet).
I usually leave my jointer mounted primarily because it's a heavy bugger, but sometimes, I'll put an extension table on that end if I'm cutting large panels for stability and support.
Thanks for going through and explaining/demonstrating. You lightly mentioned “there is no right way” (something like that), when check the grain of the board but didn’t explain to newbs the correct way to determine that.
Yeah, I noticed that when I was editing. At some point I'm planning on doing a thorough video on the Jointer and will make a point to explain that. I guess to some extent I'm assuming that my viewers have watched other videos on this subject and only felt the need to explain the details where the Shopsmith jointer was unique. I probably shouldn't make those assumptions. Scott
Thanks for asking, Mark. They both tested negative but his work required him to quarantine for the full 14 days. They are home and all are well. Thanks again for your prayers, Scott
If you leave your jointer on most of the time, how do you use your bandsaw? I saw someone leave a soda can on a bandsaw table at one of the Shopsmith demonstrations while the instructor was away on break. I asked the instructor if it was to prove a point on some kind of surface additive other than the good old trusted Johnson’s Paste wax? He quickly ran over and removed the can, cleaned the surface. Then returned and thanked me - haha.
My bandsaw lives on the Power Station. I immediately took to using it there because I like that it sits a little lower and it freed-up the Mark V for the jointer. Even before the Power Station was introduced we almost always used to have a bandsaw or two in the Shopsmith Academy that were mounted on dedicated stands. Yeah, rust will begin to form very quickly even through paste wax, which is one clear benefit of the synthetic lubricants like Boeshield T-9 and the CRC product I'm using here. I would have thanked you too! Scott
My solution to reading the minuscule type they like to print directions in, is to take a picture of the label with my phone camera, and then zoom the photo. :)
I do that all the time too. When I think about all the things I use my phone for that used to be standalone uni-taskers, it boggles my mind. Camera, video camera, GPS, flashlight, reading glasses, Internet search tool, entertainment center… the list goes on and on.
I use Rockler's Hevi-duty flip top roller stands as extensions on both infeed and outfeed of my jointer. With a 50 inch precision straight edge and using a feeler gauge to zero the roller stands level to the jointer surfaces, I can precisely joint the edges on very long boards.
Nice approach, Ralph. My shop floors have never been level enough for that to work without a bunch of set-up. Shopsmith used to offer a multi-roller stand for use with the planer, but because the planer bed moves up as you increase the depth of cut you were forever fiddling with it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Scott: I've had a Shopsmith Jointer since '84. It's been upgraded with the featherboard guard and dust collection chute.....good as is, but this is a very old design and with cast iron construction weighs about 64 lbs. What do you think of a new design, a 6 or 7 inch jointer with aluminum infeed, outfeed, and fence that locks in the middle. It could even be mounted on a power stand for even more broad market appeal. What would Robert Folkerth and Jim McCann think about this?
@@ralphlivingston762 Sure. Just be mentally prepared to sign an NDA before they will discuss it with you. They have likely considered all of the various materials for the production of their tools, so if they already have an aluminum jointer in the works they'll want to be able to say that you didn't give them the idea.
Another nice video, Scott…it contradicts the old adage, “You can’t teach an old dog..” the idea of using penatrol is great” Question: do you recommend removing the old wax, JPW, and what would use to remove the wax?
You can count me as an old dog too! Yeah, the Penatrol has held up really well. Most any solvent will remove the wax, but lacquer thinner seems to “penetrate” best. I’m sure there are metallurgists who would say that you can’t penetrate cast iron, but I believe it is porous enough to allow it. Scott
Thanks Scott. I have been enjoying this series on the Jointer from you. Do you plan on sharing your results from the jointer bed in a few months, i.e. comparing the different surface protectants? I had heard Penetrol discussed on the forum a while back, but never tried. I am curious since you mentioned that after a couple of days that the fence (with Penetrol) was slick, do you think JPW is still needed on it or not? I guess I am wondering how long this lower friction would last on a cast iron surface protected with Penetrol - can you skip the JPW step on it?
Yes, I'm sure at some point we will circle back. Probably at the point where I begin to notice wear on one spot or another. Also, I do plan on adding with paste wax or a spray wax over all of the finished surfaces as a sacrificial surface. Which will be easer to refinish, a wax coating or the Penetrol? I'm lazy so I'll always choose the wax! Scott
My jointer always gave me a tapered cut so I rarely used it. Recently I decided to try again and tune it up. I sharpened the knives and installed them level with the out feed table. It cuts great, but now I get a crowned board (wider in the middle). What am I doing wrong? Also do you have a early opinion on the water vs oil based poly? God bless. Randy
Hey Randy. I have always preferred oil-based poly and seeing how I'm only looking for a thin, penetrative film I really prefer the capability of thinning the oil-based finish. The water-based poly is much thicker on the surface of the bed, which isn't what I wanted but it's what I got! Tapers on the jointer occur for one of two reasons: The board is being jointed on two opposing sides prior to ripping or one or both of the adjustable beds is too high or the knives are slightly too high. On the SS jointer the in-feed bed is the only adjustable one, so that at least narrows down the possibilities. Scott
Scott, you mentioned in one of your videos about a common problem of the fence not sitting tight to the jointer out feed table because the ‘quadrant?’ being bent. Are you referring to the c-shaped piece that the pin goes through? I think you mentioned that it was one of the most ordered parts from SS. Thanks, Jim
Scot... New owner of a NTM Shopsmith MKV (510) that came with bandsaw and jointer. When I tried running the jointer, I found out the blades weren't set correctly. I did my best to reset the teeth after calling the person I purchased it from. IS there a place where I can find a PDF or book specifically for the jointer?
If you want a printed manual there's one available from Shopsmith, but there's a free download available that might walk you though what you need to know. I'm planning on covering this in this weekend's video, so your timing is good. Scott
i followed your video on replacing and setting jointer blades. It is cutting smoothly but Im'm getting alot of snipe. What cause this and how do I correct it?
Terry, Snipe is usually either due to the knives being set a tad high, or from applying too much pressure when the ends are only supported by one of the other beds of the jointer. Those are the most common issues. I would also suggest that you confirm that the infeed and outfeed beds (aka tables) are on the same plane by raising the infeed level with the outfeed and checking it with a straightedge. Hopefully one of these will set you on a snipe-free path. Scott
If it is a Shopsmith jointer, yes. Shopsmith sells a retrofit kit and they also sow up on eBay from time to time. It’s a very wash upgrade. www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555480
I am going to have to go through a rebuild of the jointer on my recently acquired older Mark V and I’m sure this will be very helpful in restoring the work area surfaces. I have a problem that I’m struggling with - the thread in the fence slide adjuster is stripped out. Can you tell me if this piece can be purchased separately or if I must buy the entire fence assembly? I have considered trying a heli-coil repair, but there is not much material thickness to install one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
When I retired from the Military and moved to Raleigh/Durham in 91”, I was informed at Woodcraft that the Shopsmith store in Raleigh had been closed not too many years before. Did you run or work at the Raleigh store?
No, we didn't move to NC until 1999 when I accepted my current job as a corporate trainer. I worked in the store in Dayton and managed the Shopsmith store in the Boston MA area and the Shopsmith-owned "Edgewood Hands-On Woodshop" store/shop in Columbus, Ohio. I visited quite a number of the stores but never made it to the one in Raleigh, though my favorite District Manager was once the Academy Instructor and later the Store Manager in the Raleigh store. Scott
No conclusion yet, but I can tell that I prefer the oil-based poly because there's almost no surface finish left behind. The water-based poly is significantly thicker on the surface. Likewise, I have always liked paste wax and don't mind maintaining it, but the spray is quick. A little oily though, but Fine Woodworking said they didn't experience any finish issues from the product transferring onto the wood. Scott
I got a question. Did you cut the Penetrol with anything before applying to the fence. What did you use to applying it. Brush, rag, or sponge? The same with the poly/mineral spirits applying? You showed the footage in fast forwards make it hard to see what you where using. My hometown Home Depot doesn’t have the Penetrol , but still have to try regular hardware store.
Well, that's what I get for answering a question while sitting at a traffic light! Let me finish that answer. I used paper towels, which I allowed to dry before throwing them away, so yes, it was pretty much the same approach as the poly, but without the thinning. Scott
Great video Scott. I've stayed quite on the subject of coating cast iron surfaces vs waxing on your past few videos. Mainly because I've always just used paste wax on the cast iron surfaces, and figured I'd stay with that old tried and true method. But, I'm not always very diligent when it comes to upkeep on those surfaces. If you could see the cast iron table on my SS bandsaw right now... It needs attention. So, would you recommend the 50/50 cut of oil based polyurethane and mineral spirits as of today, or should I hold out for the results of your tests?
@@chadnevels246 Yep, brush or wipe it on and wipe it off. You only want and need a film. Most of what we are going for is penetration into the pores. Be sure to clean it well with mineral spirits immediately before applying the poly-mix.
Thank you very much for this channel. I just bought a Mark 510 and I’m so excited. The rails have lots of rust damage and since I can it soak them in rust removal solution, how would you recommend tackling this rust removal? Do you think it’s ok to use a wire brush?
I would use Evaporust applied by soaking thick paper towels and then wrapping them with stretch wrap or Saran Wrap. Give that a day or so and then a soft wire brush followed by ScotchBrite scrubbing pads. Don't try to slide the headstock off until you've removed most of the rust as the headstock is aluminum and will be damaged by the abrasive rust. It will go a lot easier than you think. Scott
So is the board that is exiting the outfeed table dropping or being lifted? A snipe is when the board is cut too deeply, so it the board is lifted off the outfeed table and the board dips into the cutter, that would be a snipe. What can be done? Well, as the doctor said when the patient said “It hurts when I do that.” “Don’t do that!” I know it’s easier said than done, but the only answers are to keep more pressure on the outfeed table, or extend the outfeed table or ass a roller stand. I just add more pressure, but then again, I have had a ton of practice. Scott
I thought the offset mounting tubes would allow the Mark 7 to be lifted up to drill press position without moving the jointer/planner...or...am I thinking wrongly about those tubes?
No, the base with the mounting holes on the Mark 7 pivot up with the tubes. Those offset tubes are for the bandsaw with the newer aluminum table. Scott
You said you had a store in Boston area. How long were you there? I bought my mark v 510 in 1997 and did a learning course 1998 in Northshore. I got the jointer for my free tool. I need some replacement parts... how do I reach shopsmith?
I managed the Shopsmith store in Chelmsford from 1987 though 89, so I was long gone by the time you got connected. You can reach Shopsmith at Sohopsmith.com or through their Facebook page, or by calling their customer service number at (937) 890-5197.
I’m about to remove them. They work fine but I can’t stand the pedals being up so high. Especially with an accessory shelf installed. I could trade the casters left for right and use the pedals from the back, but my habits are too deeply formed to like that! I’m going back to the econo wheels. Scott
Oh, wait. Your question was about the jointer! Sorry about that. I’m on my phone and I thought this was the caster video. So far they are all holding up well.
Couple questions are you cutting the Penetrol with mineral spirits or applying 100% Penetrol . Also are you waxing over the penetrol after it drys . Its been almost 2 years now how was the wear on the various areas
Hey Jim. Unfortunately the jointer saw very little action after this because we moved into an apartment and my tools went into storage in my sister's basement. That said, some of my tools rusted in that space, but the jointer didn't! It's about to be put back into service and I'll do a follow-up as soon as there's something new to report. The fence is the only place where I applied the Penetrol and no, I applied it straight from the can. Scott
Only with very old jointers that have the straight tubes that connect them to the machine. Shopsmith introduced eccentric tubes or posts years ago, that make the alignment quick and easy and you only have to do it once ever.
@@jimtalbott9535 yes, those parts are available from Shopsmith at a pretty reasonable price. I would check there and I would also look for some used ones on eBay and just make a judgment call. They are built like a brick house, so a Used set should work perfectly fine.
I have the SS jointer as a stand alone tool on a stand. The RPM's seem terribly low on the blades when jointing hardwood. The motor is 1875 RPM, are there recommended pulley diameters?
When they are mounted on the Mark V and the speed dial is set at “R” for general sawing, the top spindle is Turing 3500 RPMs, while the lower spindle is spinning 1.6 times faster, or 5600 RPMs. The proper size depends on what diameter combination you are using. There are speed charts available on belt and pulley sites that should be helpful. I’ll see if I can track down more info. Scott
Double-check the motor RPMs before you make any changes, but based on 1875 the jointer pulley should be 2" and a 6" motor pulley would get you to 5625 RPMs. If that makes you nervous, you can always go with a 5" motor pulley, which would get you to 4687.5 at the cutter head. I would buy turned, cast iron pulleys and use a link belt, because that 2" pulley is a tight one! Scott
Does anyone know how to align the headstock to the shaft of the SPT tools? mine is off and can't figure it out
@@willpartin622 Sure, I covered it here: “Shopsmith Drive Hub Alignment: Bandsaw, Strip Sander, Jointer, Etc.”
ua-cam.com/video/nrFepfHqVHE/v-deo.html
Hi Scott, I bought my 510 from you many moons ago 1n 86. I was the man who put it in a 81 CJ 5 Jeep. It has been all over and finally immigrated to Indiana. I Still love my 510.
That's awesome!
Dang! Just learned how to set the featherboard correctly. That featherboard never made sense to me until now. Thanks.
That's awesome!
@@MyGrowthRings well...I finally got around to trying the feather board again and it turns out I’m still confused. It appears that your lock knob is on the fence side of the stop. Then you appear to lock down the feather board. When I tighten that knob there is nothing for the little L-bracket underneath the feather board to grab onto. Therefore the only thing applying pressure against the feather board and workpiece is the spring. Wish I could include a picture so I could show the parts and setup.
@@danasmith8950 So, there's not a stud threaded into the bed beneath the lock knob? Is there an empty threaded hole?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, the stud is there. I referred to it as a "stop". If I put the knob mechanism to the right of it (towards the fence), it seems like the knob serves no purpose because when I tighten it, there's nothing that it tightens against. If I put the knob to the left of the stud, I can use it to keep the featherboard away from the the fence - which seems useless to me. What I saw in the video is that you pressed the featherboard against the workpiece slightly and then tightened the knob. That makes sense to me but when I do it, the knob doesn't lock the featherboard.
@Dana Smith Hummm. I wonder if the square part at the bottom of the threaded part beneath the knob needs to be rotated? You should be able to apply pressure against the board and slide the knob outward until it hits the stud and at that point lock the knob. If it’s not striking the pin then either rotate it or perhaps the feather guard itself is sitting too high. A pic from the side would help. You can email me at scottmarkwood(at)gmail.com
Once again, having had my vintage Shopsmith for decades, learning to use it correctly is making me like it more. Thanks for the reminder to not joint short pieces.
Glad to hear it! Yes, that little tip has saved several “tips”! Scott
Yes, Shopsmith does offer a free accessory with the purchase of a new Mark V or Mark 7. It was offered in a webinar that I attended, hosted by Doug Reid last summer, and a Zoom meeting I attended, hosted by Mike Young back in August of this year.
And yes, the bandsaw is the sexiest tool, drop dead sexy, lol. The jointer is essential in most of my woodworking. I wouldn't want to work without it.
That's still a great deal and I'm glad they still offer it. We used to have one-quarter of the years where they would throw in a shop set-up kit that had $500 worth of shop supplies, such as clamps, glue, finishes, sandpaper, etc. It was an excellent deal for anyone getting started in WW.
Thank you for going over the jointer. This it seems is not show cased often on the SS like you said ( not sexy ) but key to starting many projects. I have a stand alone 1950s that was given to me but I still need to refurbish my dads from the mark 5. Rusted solid lol. A shame but I’m up for the task. Blades look like they never saw a days use. Your eye for detail is a huge asset to me on these machines. Weather it’s how to use or maintain or history lesson and personal tips. The urethane on the beds peaked my interest immediately!!!! This is out of the box thinking. Plus the other alternatives. I wax my beds and that may be where I stay but none the less very cool school of thought.
Out of the box is where I live my life! Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Thank you for making all of these videos! I love them. I have a jointer I just put back into service and mounted it on a power station for a large table build I am doing. I cleaned it up, sharpened and set the blades, and de-rusted and waxed it all. I also built a larger/taller aux fence and today I built an outfeed table for it - which works great! It is really working to help me joint these large/long boards for the table top by myself with no snipe and makes the process much more stable and I think safer as well. I can send a pic of the outfeed table if you want. I attached it (mine is older and does not have the ledge on the back) by drilling and countersinking two small holes for machine screws in the tail of the jointer - which some people might not want to do - I am just glad I did not screw it up.
I'd love to see pics. You can send them to me at ScottMarkwood(AT)Gmail(dot)com Also, do you have a Mark V? If so I reccomend using the Mark V to power the jointer because the top speed of the Power Station is far below the normal speed of a jointer when powered on the Mark V. Just a thought. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks. I looked in the book I got with the power stand and went to Tractor Supply to buy the right (2") pulley size. Seems to work pretty well. I think the motor sheave on the power station was 4 or 4.5". I'll send the pics now.
@@55mga1500 Thanks for the pics and now that I see which power stand you have I have changed my tune! Nice looking rear support, too.
This or another video you spoke of cutting the oil poly with mineral spirits. I don't recall, however, whether you said with what to cut (50/50) the water-based poly. Thanks, and appreciate your channel!
Hey Tom. While you can thin water-based poly you can't thin it by much. You can use either water or mineral spirits with Varathane poly, but only up to 10%, so I gave the can a splash of mineral spirits and did a quick wipe on, wipe off, leaving just a film. Scott
I sure enjoy your vids! Not sure if I missed something but in some you talk about things I would like to see but they sometimes are skipped over.
Example: tension spring on the jointer blade guard.
Application of the jointer Polly clear coat.
Sanding off the rust of the jointer tables.
Keep up the good work!
John from Ocala
Hey John, the video where I applied the polyurethane to the jointer is here: ua-cam.com/video/FnTPtNAwREI/v-deo.html The video where I sanded the rust off the jointer is here: ua-cam.com/video/-FI06EjqQPY/v-deo.html You are correct, I don’t believe I covered the guard spring except for in this video: ua-cam.com/video/OvfKgNtxsR4/v-deo.html
Nice video Scott. I would like to see a demo on making rabbits on the jointer if you can work it in someday
Thanks and for sure, I will. That and a couple other jointer tricks. Scott
Making some picture frame stock over the past weekend. Decided to challenge myself to make the rabbit and decorative front bevel on the jointer this time as opposed to the table saw or shaper/speed increaser. This jointer is an older model (Vandalia sticker on the Manga guard) which came to me used and I added the rear blade cover and coupler guard some time ago. As I lowered the infeed table in successive passes to achieve a 1/4 inch deep rabbit, SCREECH! The knives dug into the rear blade cover. I had to prop up the guard to avoid it contacting the blades. PTWFE4 page 79 does not cover any special notes on this guard while rabbiting.
Be great to see a video on proper jointer rabbits. Bonus video idea, dating components and manuals via the Vandalia vs Dayton address.
Additional note, I did replace the "fence tilt quadrant" some time ago as the old one had stretched to the point where the end of the fence lifted more than an inch off the table. Maybe I mounted the guard in reference to the old quadrant and is now too low? Also the "fence tilt quadrant" is one of Shopsmith's "17 Most Frequently Ordered Shopsmith Service Parts" and is currently on sale from Shopsmith through 1/07/2020. (I do not work for Shopsmith)
Ouch! Does your jointer have the plastic guard over the drive hub?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, I installed both the hub guard and the rear blade guard. These came as an upgrade kit from Shopsmith, which I no longer see on their website.
A lot of metal working types use BLO on bare metal, rarely do they describe how they are doing it. Pity the jointer won't take the extension table from the Mark5/500 saw table. Or maybe it will, I don't have one to play with (yet).
That's an interesting idea, because there's a lot of them floating around after folks upgraded to the 510 ir 520. Hummmm...
I usually leave my jointer mounted primarily because it's a heavy bugger, but sometimes, I'll put an extension table on that end if I'm cutting large panels for stability and support.
That’s the only reason I would do it too.
Thanks for going through and explaining/demonstrating. You lightly mentioned “there is no right way” (something like that), when check the grain of the board but didn’t explain to newbs the correct way to determine that.
Yeah, I noticed that when I was editing. At some point I'm planning on doing a thorough video on the Jointer and will make a point to explain that. I guess to some extent I'm assuming that my viewers have watched other videos on this subject and only felt the need to explain the details where the Shopsmith jointer was unique. I probably shouldn't make those assumptions. Scott
Another well done video.👍👍
Thanks John.
My 89/90 vintage has the lip.
hello..I made a safety guide after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
Awesome!
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you. If you have time later, please visit my channel.^^
Thanks for another great video Scott. By the way, how is your daughter and her family doing? I hope that all is well.
Thanks for asking, Mark. They both tested negative but his work required him to quarantine for the full 14 days. They are home and all are well. Thanks again for your prayers, Scott
If you leave your jointer on most of the time, how do you use your bandsaw?
I saw someone leave a soda can on a bandsaw table at one of the Shopsmith demonstrations while the instructor was away on break. I asked the instructor if it was to prove a point on some kind of surface additive other than the good old trusted Johnson’s Paste wax? He quickly ran over and removed the can, cleaned the surface. Then returned and thanked me - haha.
My bandsaw lives on the Power Station. I immediately took to using it there because I like that it sits a little lower and it freed-up the Mark V for the jointer. Even before the Power Station was introduced we almost always used to have a bandsaw or two in the Shopsmith Academy that were mounted on dedicated stands. Yeah, rust will begin to form very quickly even through paste wax, which is one clear benefit of the synthetic lubricants like Boeshield T-9 and the CRC product I'm using here. I would have thanked you too! Scott
My solution to reading the minuscule type they like to print directions in, is to take a picture of the label with my phone camera, and then zoom the photo. :)
I do that all the time too. When I think about all the things I use my phone for that used to be standalone uni-taskers, it boggles my mind. Camera, video camera, GPS, flashlight, reading glasses, Internet search tool, entertainment center… the list goes on and on.
I use Rockler's Hevi-duty flip top roller stands as extensions on both infeed and outfeed of my jointer. With a 50 inch precision straight edge and using a feeler gauge to zero the roller stands level to the jointer surfaces, I can precisely joint the edges on very long boards.
Nice approach, Ralph. My shop floors have never been level enough for that to work without a bunch of set-up. Shopsmith used to offer a multi-roller stand for use with the planer, but because the planer bed moves up as you increase the depth of cut you were forever fiddling with it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Scott: I've had a Shopsmith Jointer since '84. It's been upgraded with the featherboard guard and dust collection chute.....good as is, but this is a very old design and with cast iron construction weighs about 64 lbs. What do you think of a new design, a 6 or 7 inch jointer with aluminum infeed, outfeed, and fence that locks in the middle. It could even be mounted on a power stand for even more broad market appeal. What would Robert Folkerth and Jim McCann think about this?
@@ralphlivingston762 I think it’s worth suggesting.
@@MyGrowthRings Maybe Nick Engler could help also.
@@ralphlivingston762 Sure. Just be mentally prepared to sign an NDA before they will discuss it with you. They have likely considered all of the various materials for the production of their tools, so if they already have an aluminum jointer in the works they'll want to be able to say that you didn't give them the idea.
Another nice video, Scott…it contradicts the old adage, “You can’t teach an old dog..” the idea of using penatrol is great”
Question: do you recommend removing the old wax, JPW, and what would use to remove the wax?
You can count me as an old dog too! Yeah, the Penatrol has held up really well. Most any solvent will remove the wax, but lacquer thinner seems to “penetrate” best. I’m sure there are metallurgists who would say that you can’t penetrate cast iron, but I believe it is porous enough to allow it. Scott
Thanks Scott. I have been enjoying this series on the Jointer from you. Do you plan on sharing your results from the jointer bed in a few months, i.e. comparing the different surface protectants? I had heard Penetrol discussed on the forum a while back, but never tried. I am curious since you mentioned that after a couple of days that the fence (with Penetrol) was slick, do you think JPW is still needed on it or not? I guess I am wondering how long this lower friction would last on a cast iron surface protected with Penetrol - can you skip the JPW step on it?
Yes, I'm sure at some point we will circle back. Probably at the point where I begin to notice wear on one spot or another. Also, I do plan on adding with paste wax or a spray wax over all of the finished surfaces as a sacrificial surface. Which will be easer to refinish, a wax coating or the Penetrol? I'm lazy so I'll always choose the wax! Scott
My jointer always gave me a tapered cut so I rarely used it. Recently I decided to try again and tune it up. I sharpened the knives and installed them level with the out feed table. It cuts great, but now I get a crowned board (wider in the middle). What am I doing wrong?
Also do you have a early opinion on the water vs oil based poly?
God bless.
Randy
Hey Randy. I have always preferred oil-based poly and seeing how I'm only looking for a thin, penetrative film I really prefer the capability of thinning the oil-based finish. The water-based poly is much thicker on the surface of the bed, which isn't what I wanted but it's what I got! Tapers on the jointer occur for one of two reasons: The board is being jointed on two opposing sides prior to ripping or one or both of the adjustable beds is too high or the knives are slightly too high. On the SS jointer the in-feed bed is the only adjustable one, so that at least narrows down the possibilities. Scott
I took my jointed totally apart to get to all the rust, [Tennessee was not kind) now I can't get the locking nuts back to gather got any ideas
What are your thoughts on the old style guard. I wonder if I should upgrade.
I really like the feather guard but Shopsmith is really proud of it! Seriously, I think it's a smart upgrade. Scott
Scott, you mentioned in one of your videos about a common problem of the fence not sitting tight to the jointer out feed table because the ‘quadrant?’ being bent. Are you referring to the c-shaped piece that the pin goes through? I think you mentioned that it was one of the most ordered parts from SS. Thanks, Jim
Correct. Not the quadrant but the c-shaped fence clamp. It’s one of Shopsmith’s most frequently sold spare part. Scott
Scot... New owner of a NTM Shopsmith MKV (510) that came with bandsaw and jointer. When I tried running the jointer, I found out the blades weren't set correctly. I did my best to reset the teeth after calling the person I purchased it from. IS there a place where I can find a PDF or book specifically for the jointer?
If you want a printed manual there's one available from Shopsmith, but there's a free download available that might walk you though what you need to know. I'm planning on covering this in this weekend's video, so your timing is good. Scott
Do you have any tips or tricks for sharpening the blades of the jointer?
Not really. I have them professionally sharpened and it's surprisingly reasonable. Scott
i followed your video on replacing and setting jointer blades. It is cutting smoothly but Im'm getting alot of snipe. What cause this and how do I correct it?
Terry, Snipe is usually either due to the knives being set a tad high, or from applying too much pressure when the ends are only supported by one of the other beds of the jointer. Those are the most common issues. I would also suggest that you confirm that the infeed and outfeed beds (aka tables) are on the same plane by raising the infeed level with the outfeed and checking it with a straightedge. Hopefully one of these will set you on a snipe-free path. Scott
Can I add the feather guard on my jointer. It has the flip out styleshield only
If it is a Shopsmith jointer, yes. Shopsmith sells a retrofit kit and they also sow up on eBay from time to time. It’s a very wash upgrade. www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555480
I am going to have to go through a rebuild of the jointer on my recently acquired older Mark V and I’m sure this will be very helpful in restoring the work area surfaces. I have a problem that I’m struggling with - the thread in the fence slide adjuster is stripped out. Can you tell me if this piece can be purchased separately or if I must buy the entire fence assembly? I have considered trying a heli-coil repair, but there is not much material thickness to install one.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hey Don, yes, that can be purchased from Shopsmith.com or used on eBay. Scott
When I retired from the Military and moved to Raleigh/Durham in 91”, I was informed at Woodcraft that the Shopsmith store in Raleigh had been closed not too many years before. Did you run or work at the Raleigh store?
No, we didn't move to NC until 1999 when I accepted my current job as a corporate trainer. I worked in the store in Dayton and managed the Shopsmith store in the Boston MA area and the Shopsmith-owned "Edgewood Hands-On Woodshop" store/shop in Columbus, Ohio. I visited quite a number of the stores but never made it to the one in Raleigh, though my favorite District Manager was once the Academy Instructor and later the Store Manager in the Raleigh store. Scott
Hope I didn't just miss this. What was the final conclusion on the best product for the jointer bed? Did you rate them? ;^)
No conclusion yet, but I can tell that I prefer the oil-based poly because there's almost no surface finish left behind. The water-based poly is significantly thicker on the surface. Likewise, I have always liked paste wax and don't mind maintaining it, but the spray is quick. A little oily though, but Fine Woodworking said they didn't experience any finish issues from the product transferring onto the wood. Scott
I got a question. Did you cut the Penetrol with anything before applying to the fence. What did you use to applying it. Brush, rag, or sponge? The same with the poly/mineral spirits applying?
You showed the footage in fast forwards make it hard to see what you where using.
My hometown Home Depot doesn’t have the Penetrol , but still have to try regular hardware store.
No, I didn’t cut it. I just wiped it on and off, leaving a film and I have it a second coat then paste wax. Pretty interesting stuff. Scot
Well, that's what I get for answering a question while sitting at a traffic light! Let me finish that answer. I used paper towels, which I allowed to dry before throwing them away, so yes, it was pretty much the same approach as the poly, but without the thinning. Scott
Went out and tried the feather board set. What do you know, it works.
I love it when a plan comes together.
Great video Scott. I've stayed quite on the subject of coating cast iron surfaces vs waxing on your past few videos. Mainly because I've always just used paste wax on the cast iron surfaces, and figured I'd stay with that old tried and true method. But, I'm not always very diligent when it comes to upkeep on those surfaces. If you could see the cast iron table on my SS bandsaw right now... It needs attention.
So, would you recommend the 50/50 cut of oil based polyurethane and mineral spirits as of today, or should I hold out for the results of your tests?
I have no reservations recommending the 50/50 oil-based poly method. The others are just for science, but I know the other method works well. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I'll give it a go. Same application process you used in your video?
@@chadnevels246 Yep, brush or wipe it on and wipe it off. You only want and need a film. Most of what we are going for is penetration into the pores. Be sure to clean it well with mineral spirits immediately before applying the poly-mix.
Will do. Thanks.
Thank you very much for this channel. I just bought a Mark 510 and I’m so excited. The rails have lots of rust damage and since I can it soak them in rust removal solution, how would you recommend tackling this rust removal? Do you think it’s ok to use a wire brush?
I would use Evaporust applied by soaking thick paper towels and then wrapping them with stretch wrap or Saran Wrap. Give that a day or so and then a soft wire brush followed by ScotchBrite scrubbing pads. Don't try to slide the headstock off until you've removed most of the rust as the headstock is aluminum and will be damaged by the abrasive rust. It will go a lot easier than you think. Scott
What happens if the front of the board runs into the out feed table and leaves snipe? Any adjustment for this?
So is the board that is exiting the outfeed table dropping or being lifted? A snipe is when the board is cut too deeply, so it the board is lifted off the outfeed table and the board dips into the cutter, that would be a snipe. What can be done? Well, as the doctor said when the patient said “It hurts when I do that.” “Don’t do that!” I know it’s easier said than done, but the only answers are to keep more pressure on the outfeed table, or extend the outfeed table or ass a roller stand. I just add more pressure, but then again, I have had a ton of practice. Scott
I thought the offset mounting tubes would allow the Mark 7 to be lifted up to drill press position without moving the jointer/planner...or...am I thinking wrongly about those tubes?
No, the base with the mounting holes on the Mark 7 pivot up with the tubes. Those offset tubes are for the bandsaw with the newer aluminum table. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you sir!
@@frankalbert7934 You bet!!
You said you had a store in Boston area. How long were you there? I bought my mark v 510 in 1997 and did a learning course 1998 in Northshore.
I got the jointer for my free tool.
I need some replacement parts... how do I reach shopsmith?
I managed the Shopsmith store in Chelmsford from 1987 though 89, so I was long gone by the time you got connected. You can reach Shopsmith at Sohopsmith.com or through their Facebook page, or by calling their customer service number at (937) 890-5197.
Any followup a few months later? How are they holding up?
I’m about to remove them. They work fine but I can’t stand the pedals being up so high. Especially with an accessory shelf installed. I could trade the casters left for right and use the pedals from the back, but my habits are too deeply formed to like that! I’m going back to the econo wheels. Scott
Oh, wait. Your question was about the jointer! Sorry about that. I’m on my phone and I thought this was the caster video. So far they are all holding up well.
@@MyGrowthRings no worries! I just got an old magna jointer and was wondering which of the coatings you'd recommend in the end.
I have years of experience with the oil based poly/mineral spirits blend and know it works.
Couple questions are you cutting the Penetrol with mineral spirits or applying 100% Penetrol . Also are you waxing over the penetrol after it drys . Its been almost 2 years now how was the wear on the various areas
Hey Jim. Unfortunately the jointer saw very little action after this because we moved into an apartment and my tools went into storage in my sister's basement. That said, some of my tools rusted in that space, but the jointer didn't! It's about to be put back into service and I'll do a follow-up as soon as there's something new to report. The fence is the only place where I applied the Penetrol and no, I applied it straight from the can. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the reply. Just got a quart of the Penetrol . Plan on treating my jointer and planer ..
Anyone have trouble getting the jointer/coupler/headstock to all line up correctly?
Only with very old jointers that have the straight tubes that connect them to the machine. Shopsmith introduced eccentric tubes or posts years ago, that make the alignment quick and easy and you only have to do it once ever.
@@MyGrowthRings Very interesting - seems as if I have an older jointer then! Is there a fix, or some easier solution that you’ve seen?
@@jimtalbott9535 yes, those parts are available from Shopsmith at a pretty reasonable price. I would check there and I would also look for some used ones on eBay and just make a judgment call. They are built like a brick house, so a Used set should work perfectly fine.
I have the SS jointer as a stand alone tool on a stand. The RPM's seem terribly low on the blades when jointing hardwood. The motor is 1875 RPM, are there recommended pulley diameters?
When they are mounted on the Mark V and the speed dial is set at “R” for general sawing, the top spindle is Turing 3500 RPMs, while the lower spindle is spinning 1.6 times faster, or 5600 RPMs. The proper size depends on what diameter combination you are using. There are speed charts available on belt and pulley sites that should be helpful. I’ll see if I can track down more info. Scott
Ok, here's the site I remember using: www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx
Double-check the motor RPMs before you make any changes, but based on 1875 the jointer pulley should be 2" and a 6" motor pulley would get you to 5625 RPMs. If that makes you nervous, you can always go with a 5" motor pulley, which would get you to 4687.5 at the cutter head. I would buy turned, cast iron pulleys and use a link belt, because that 2" pulley is a tight one! Scott
BTW, it’s hard to beat the price of Harbor Freight’s link belt at $33 for 5 feet, and it works great.
Thanks for the fast response. I will look into the recommended pullys
Johnson's paste wax is not made anymore.
You are correct.