Your Radical AR Is Over Gassed, FIX IT CHEAP!!! Here's How
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 січ 2018
- This will work for any AR.
It will increase reliability.
Increase ammo tolerances.
My example is the $500 Radical AR
On my last video we noticed it was running over gassed.
Instead of buying a weight blindly, we will just upgrade/modify the buffer weight that came with the AR.
What buffer weight should i use?
Whats the best buffer weight?
Why is my bolt not holding open on last round?
How can i make my AR more reliable? - Спорт
I have an AR "other firearm" which is basically a SBR with a pistol brace and vertical fore grip. Shooting Federal XM193 55 grain ammo, I get significant recoil ( a lot more than my M4A2 did when I was in the Army). I shot 40 rds. and when I went home I noticed I had a small dime sized bruise from the recoil. I bought a VG6 Gamma Muzzle Device hoping it would solve my recoil issue. Went shooting again using some cheap Wolf 62 grain ammo a friend gave me. Shot 20 rds. got zero recoil and barrel rise and was satisfied with my new muzzle device. Went shooting again, using my Federal XM193 ammo, shot 40 rds. had significant recoil again. Was very disappointed with the muzzle device. Decided to buy a heavier buffer and spring, went with the Spikes Tactical T2 Buffer (4 oz.) and a JP Industries Tuned Spring. Spring and Buffer should be here Friday. So I am hoping that will solve my issue. If that does solve my issue than the VG6 was a wasted purchase and I will probably just go back to the a2 birdcage. As for ejection angles my casings end up like 10 ft. away at the 2:00 position, but they are striking my deflector so I am not sure if that is the cause or if it is just over gassed or not.
Any input is welcomed, thanks.
An adjustable gas block is the way to go as everyone has repeated. But it does involve the most work and money aswell. I was recommending another alternative that customizes the buffer to any gun rather than buying a specific weighted buffer.
For recoil and follow up shots the muzzle break plays into that aswell causing the barrel to possibly rise and recieve less recoil straight back. But the trade off is muzzle rise. Pick your poison.
In your case that shorter barrel will add recoil a heavier weight i think will help. Also possibly your stock/stock pad or even the buffer spring.
A lot of moving parts to perfect it the way you personally want. But i think some guns are worth it and some are just plinking guns. Just have to decide how much to spend and if it's worth it to you.
Figured I'd come back and add for some, that bullet brand, weight ect... will also change how your shots feel after you pull that trigger. Figure out what bullet and brand your gun shoots best with on paper at your target distance then dial your gun in to your chosen bullet.
@@bereadybasics7525 Well I just got my 4 oz. buffer and spring. Spring is slightly thicker and and like 1 1/2 in longer than the old one. Will be shooting tomorrow morning so will see how that works for me. I would like to avoid an adjustable gas block at this time since I have zero experience with them.
Thank you for the tips, I appreciate it. This is actually my first AR as a civilian. When I was in the Army, I only had to clean my rifle and shoot it. The armorer took care of all the maintenance stuff. So I am still learning things I never knew before.
@@xlxlffdd6630 Sounds great. I would love to see how that works for you. Maybe this thread will end up helping someone else with similar issue. Looking forward to the update.
@@bereadybasics7525 Just got back from shooting. The new Buffer and Spring definitely made a huge difference over the stock ones as far as recoil goes. The action was really smooth. So I am happy there. However my brass was still hitting around 1:30 - 2:00. They do hit the deflector on ejection so I am not sure how much that effects direction. I don't plan on shooting 1000's of rounds (today I only shot 15 rds.) out this gun though so I am not sure if I should even bother with an adjustable gas block, unless it can cause severe damage on some parts like the BCG and Upper?
Changing the buffer weight doesnt stop overgassing. It only minimizes the symptoms at the expense of gas ring wear.
After reading some comments all I can say is. Lighten up folks.... He never claimed this was the end all be all, fix. It is merely an alternative to a more expensive fix, regardless of whether it is more correct than the other.
I enjoyed this video, excellent content. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain. Actually looking at picking up a radical AR-15 soon. Just liked and subscribed
Thank you so much for sharing.
Good info thanks Brother!!
This isn't a bad idea and the video itself is good. But one respectful criticism is that if it is directed towards beginners, and also with the goal of doing things inexpensively - by the time a beginner buys the Wheeler hammer and punch set and the tungsten weight set, they could just buy a new, heavier buffer for less money and effort.
Excellent video 👍
Thx for great information bro! Really good know.🇺🇸
I try and pass it on as i receive it. Thank you
I have that same upper in 7.62x39 and it is WAY over-gassed. I have had a Colt in the caliber since 1992 and this upper makes recoil feel more like a .30-30.
I put in a 4.9 oz buffer and a buffer spring designed for a .308. It still kicks hard.
Perfect example on making this video. I like everyone to post what they experience so others may see. Thank you for commenting.
30 cal will always be overgassed in a gas impingement system shorter than rifle length. It's designed for a rifle length gas system and a barrel over 20 inches long.
Great video thanks
Oddin works adjustable buffer and Strike industries has the optimous adjustable buffer. The strike has alot more adjustable weight options with its kit. It has polymer, aluminium, steel and tungsten weights. Plus you don't have to beet out a roll pin. I got 1 oddin works and 3 strikes. Strike is the better option for its more versatile weight options. And it come with a nice gold buffer housing. Sometimes you can put quartes in you buffer tub b4 you put the spring in. If your at 2:30 ejection try 2-4 quarters and you might just find that sweet 4:00 ejection for literally less than a dollar. 3 tungsten weights are more for 9mm or suppressed. Good luck brother
Nice tip but honestly people worry way too much about this stuff. Stock is beautiful the way the manufacturer set it up as the way it was intended to run with a wide variety of ammunition. Myself personally in a mid-length carbine 16 inch barrel I would only run one tungsten weight at the most. Lots of people say two tungsten weights, but I have a feeling they will run into underpowered loads in 223 there's potential issues there. In my opinion you want to slow the carrier down just enough to promote optimal operation. The AR-15 chambered obviously in 5.56 mm doesn't really recoil much anyway especially in Rifle length.
Better fix would be to go get a sprinco blue buffer spring and an h or h2 buffer. The stiffer spring is far better than simply adding weight to the buffer. Try it and see. The spring is 20 bucks from sprincos website
Excellent thanks!
300$ gun experts are everywhere
I switched to the Gisele super 42 buffer n spring. Really help with ejection pattern. Smoother recoil too
I wanted to let you know i have recommended this spring based off of your experience with a disclaimer i haven't personally used it lol Thank you for your solution. That's what makes UA-cam great, the problem solving.
@@tactical-bucket Eat shit
I try not to worry too much about this. With .223 my ejection is "Perfect" with 5.56 my ejection is about 2 o'clock-ish. If I set up my rifle to eject "perfect" with 5.56 than I'm pretty certain I'd be running the risk of being under powered with .223 for reliable cycling of the bcg. I mainly run 5.56 so in reality it's not a major concern for me but just thought it'd be a point to bring up for those who run both regularly. I'm currently in the processes of trying to get my rifle slightly more tuned but personally I don't want my rifle to eject 5.56 in the "perfect zone" Some where between 2-3 (closer to 3 than I am now) is what I'm going for but consistency in ejection pattern is key.
@RaTiCuS you just commented to someone else that adjustable gas blocks were not good for reliability, and were designed for suppressor use. Hey- as long as you are controlling your gas, be it with a heavy buffer, adj gas block, or Beano, you are GTG. Bruh.
Is the felt recoil bad ? I’m having the bad felt recoil issue rn
@@vontak59 It’s been a few years 😅 can you refresh me on the topic you’re asking about?
@@biggboysouth how bad was the felt recoil for both your .223 and 5.56 with your ejection thing
@@vontak59 oohhh gotcha. It was decent solid middle road approach. Like I mentioned 223 was pretty mild and 5.56 was a little punchier but nothing I would call bad.
I’ve since dialed my setup in even more. I ended up just buying some weak ammo like tula or wolf ect. Set my gun up to we’re it’s just able to run and lock back the bolt on last round RELIABLY and it shoots great with no issues. Just use something higher quality than Tula or wolf for self defense 😉
Why add weight to the reciprocating mass of the bcg and buffer assembly??? You want to reduce it if you can for less felt recoil. Get yourself an adjustable gas block instead of adding weight. Want to make it shoot soft? Get a lightweight bcg, light weight buffer and spring (or JP captured spring buffer) and adjustable gb along with a good muzzle brake and it will recoil like a 10/22.
@Cav Trooper 19D You are absolutely correct. The reason I answered this way was due to the context of his video. Its obviously an inexpensive build and it just seemed like he was complicating matters. Easy solution would be order a 5 dollar heavier buffer and call it a day. Just thought i would give him a way to lighten the recoil if he was ok with going a little further like he did with disassembling the buffer and all. If I were him and had this rifle ejecting at 2 oclock, I would have called it a day right there. Not crazy overgassed and actually probably a bit more reliable. Good run down on the bolt bounce issue by the way. I think if more people payed attention to matching their components better they would be happier with their end results. Also, cheaper is not always better and most overgassed rifles ive seen started with either cheap barrels that manufacturers drill the gas ports a little larger, mis matched components or lack of knowledge regarding how the components interact. Its not to say less expensive parts cant be made into a reliable weapon just that when you combine what I mentioned above it usually ends with a lot of frustration.
Adjustable gas blocks are for fine tuning a gas impingement system. You can not fine tune away a reciprocating mass issue. Not all builds are the same and not all components are the same. Build the rifle, tune the rifle. In that order. Which means start with your recoil system and reciprocating mass first, finalize your mass your spring power and then adjust your gas.
In almost every case, an adjustable gas block is not necessary.
@@tactical-bucket The title says it all! OVERGASSED! Usually due to a cheap barrel with too large a gas port. Changing anything other than the size of the gas port is an incorrect approach and merely band aiding the problem. Period, end of story. O-V-E-R-G-A-S-S-E-D = too much gas. Either change the barrel to one with the correct port size for the application or adjust the flow. You can make macro or micro adjustments with an adjustable gas block and works just as well without having to buy an additional barrel. Why add additional weight when you can rectify the ORIGINAL issue and have a rifle that runs correctly and smoothly. You say you cannot fine tune away a reciprocating mass issue? I would argue that adding more mass is just increasing the problem. Yes it may slow it down but you are adding weight. The goal is always to decrease the mass. Whether that is to obtain a lighter recoil impulse or simply to have to hump less weight. Why have to slow something down by using more weight when you can control its speed by applying less force to begin with? On a side note, your way, you have more force slamming the bolt shut and creating more wear on top of all the other issues. Try it, you'll like it and you will have less recoil , the sights will stay on target better and you will have faster follow up shots.
Because adjustable gas blocks aren't recommended for serious use defense/duty rifles. Just get a Vltor A5 or BCM A5 buffer tube, Vltor A5 buffer weight, and a Sprinco green rifle spring, and it'll be running smoother than a sewing machine
I run a bcm A5 sprinco green spring with an a5 h2 buffer with a DA sandman S on my bcm 11.5in. Elw barreled upper and mine still ejects at 2-230 Shooting 62g mostly I hope that will change with a h3? Anyone else have this problem
Some rifles need more than a heavier buffer some need stronger buffer spring. My ar got a springco red extra power spring now ejects at slightly more then 3 o'clock position, some commercially available ars come over gassed gas port hole in barrel is over sized, tried all buffer weights it did not change pattern, changed spring worked first time..
Ok I have an AR pistol and the extractor is just tearing rims off the rounds leading to fail to extract/double feeds I had the upper checked out by the factory and they say it’s fine. I am guessing I am over gassed and need to upgrade my buffer. Would you recommend an h2 or h3 any help with this would be welcome.
I have no problem with my radical firearm. Very happy customer
I'm with ya, i haven't installed anything yet until it gives me an issue.
H2 buffer with carbine length gas system and full auto bolt carrier. Perfect 3:00 to 4:30 from my experience.
Did you use stock spring? I have a M&P 15 sport 2.. and am looking go get an h2 buffer
@@jumpman765 Yes I use the stock spring.
Can you please send me a printable file of your pie chart which I like very much and thank you for making this topic easier to understand. It will be only for my own private use.
Thank You,
Frank
Google Ejection Angle Pie Chart.....then click Images.. works to
My experience with trying to solve this problem by increasing buffer weight failed completely. I went ( one weight at a time ) from a standard carbine buffer, all the way to an H3 (3 oz. to 5.6 oz. ) and the only noticeable difference in the ejection pattern was that instead of being anywhere from one thirty to three o clock, it is now consistently at two o clock. A heavier buffer spring might help, but I think an adjustable gas block is probably the best solution.
Appreciate your experience, I'm going to see what they would cost to have installed and I'll do a follow up video.
Would most shooters install a adjustable gas block themselves or hire it out? 🤔
@@bereadybasics7525 Install themselves. I know I am.
Get a Vltor A5 or BCM A5 buffer tube, a Vltor A5 buffer weight, and a Sprinco green rifle spring, for good measure also get a LaRue MBT two-stage trigger, and you can thank me later!
Edit:. Adjustable gas blocks are not recommended for serious use rifles. It's just introducing another failure point when you can get a Vltor system for a comparable price.
A better fix is to buy a barrel with the correct port size. Then you have no added recoil or excess gas muking up the works. A quality adjustable gas block actually addresses the issue and unless you are shooting the weapon everyday in a combat situation (were hopefully youre not using a $500 rifle) youll have no problems. Why loose performance.
@@oscarcollinsiv Even on a perfectly gassed rifle I prefer to have the A5 system. It increases the operational window, increases life of your parts, and reduces felt recoil. Carbine length buffer tubes were a compromise that never needed to exist. Also makes it more forgiving swapping between suppressed and non suppressed
Adding weight to the buffer does NOT resolve the over gassing, it only helps manage recoil impulse. You need an adjustable gas block. A gas block with a bleed off feature is the absolute best option
A heavier buffer keeps the bolt closed longer so that pressure inside the barrel has more time to decrease
@@defiantmopar only marginally so, and it would help slow down the cyclic rate A stronger spring would definitely help keep the bolt closed longer AND help with recoil. You need to fine tune the gun with a combination of buffer weight, spring weight, and gas block bleed off with the ammo you are using.
I Agree with you but not everyone has the confidence/ patience/ skill/ funds to install an adjustable gas block. Do you think leaving the spring alone and modifying the buffer to the best weight is the easiest/ cheapest solution? Most wont even mess with it as long as it functions reliably and chances are it will for a lone time.
Very helpful in the graph personally I think you should have started with that but I have a question what if you fall into the perfect enjection area but the case falls with in about 6inches of the gun would you call that a weak extractor
Andrew Fibush maybe add that rubber grommet to your extractor spring if your concerned.
Be Ready Basics would you say it would be a weak extractor tho or too strong of one
Andrew Fibush weak if i had to say. My brass from both my ARs flies closer to 6ft away
Andrew Fibush - I'm no pro but I've seen other have the issue you speak of and it was due to a weak extractor spring. There are videos here on youtube of it and how they fixed it. I'd recommend buying the extractor spring upgrade from BCM. it's only a few dollars. Also before spending money you should examine your extractor claw to make sure it isn't worn down or improperly machined. If so go ahead and pick that up from bcm also. Good luck
You can't tell where your ejection pattern is if the brass falls only 6 inches away. If your brass is falling within 6 inches of the gun your extraction is not violent enough. I suspect you are undergassed or possibly have too heavy a buffer. Weigh your buffer on a postal scale. 3.8 ounces is common. If yours is heavier, change it.
What if it ejects 430-5 o'clock, but really far?
This posting is 4 years old. I just bought my rifle in July 2022. Can anybody tell me if this condition still exists in current models?
Great video... My AR ejection at around 1 to 2 o'clock.. Runs flawless just ejecting the cases as I stated. Thanks for the simple and great content in your video..👍👍👍
Hey i appreciate that. Its still works fine with a "non Perfect" ejection pattern but i would like to adjust mine to the perfect zone.
@@bereadybasics7525 how do I get it format perfect zone?? Curious
@@saulcarrera6509 from 1-2 o'clock ejection.... heavier buffer/ different buffer tube spring/ or the "perfect fine tuning" is an adjustable gas block. The weights kit for the buffer is one of the cheaper solutions other then buffer spring.
@@bereadybasics7525 thank you.. Will try that and will reply back with the results... Thank You Sir
@@saulcarrera6509 I love the feed back and other points of view for everyone to share. Thank you, appreciate it.
so what if your gas pushed the buffer so hard to the rear it damaged the buffer?
You could just buy A H2 buffer with a flat buffer spring why wast the cash on them tungsten wts.
Even better pick up JP silent spring for $139.00 best on the market no more twang from the buffer spring.
keydogd what does a H2 buffer and flat spring cost?.... you mention wasting cash then say spend $139 on a whole new set up. Im not sure which way your going.
I run the JP buffer on most my rifles with an adjustable gas block - I run them all with suppressors. The JP buffer is the best by far.
Great video..... I have a Bear creak 10.5 upper that is WAY over gassed..... it is ejecting at the 1-1:30..... so I did the exact same thing added 3 tungsten weights to give me a H3 (BTW It is much cheaper buying these weights vs buying complete buffers) and it did nothing to the ejection pattern, next I bought a Springco Red buffer string (extra stiff spring) still did nothing to the pattern...... I didn’t want to buy a adjustable gas block but I guess I have no choice at this point......
Yea thats what i found as well with the prices, plus its customizable. What type of gas system does it have? Pistol or carbine? from what your saying i bet carbine so then its so over gassed these solutions won't work
It’s a carbine system..... it’s more of a beater upper/gun I bought the upper supper cheap so can’t complain too much I can say it’s a fun gun, just beats the hell out of you lol..... I can see excessive wear in the upper receiver from the BCG being slammed around...... I will most likely buy a barrel for it over an adjustable gas block..... it’s not the most accurate gun I have so you get what you pay for...... I basically bought it because of all the negative reviews out there, and with the discount from a gun show I paid less then 100 for it out the door (upper with BCG and charging handle) and I’ve put over 2k rounds through this thing..... but I have never been able to hit 10” steel reliably at 200 yds...,.. I have a PSA 10.5 with irons that will do it all day......I will say your video is the only one I’ve seen to use the tungsten from Amazon.... I’ve been using for a while with my custom builds.... Much better than buying adjustable buffer kits or buying buffer weights from Geissele for $20.00 a piece ....... keep up the good vids
@@LONEWOLF_LCD hey i really appreciate it. You pretty much answered all my questions in that one comment lol i haven't yet picked up an Ar pistol or sbr so bear creek has those reviews for a reason huh got it. Sorry for any mislead for fixes maybe i should do a video on gas system lengths and its relation to gassing. Before anyone attempts these easier fixes. Appreciate your support.
Ok so i assembled a PSA AR pistol build. I know it's over-gassed, but what is the danger, or why wouldn't you want it over-gassed? I get that ideally it wouldn't be, but do i run a greater risk of breaking something, or will it cause malfunctions, or will it just lead to more perceived recoil and gas coming out of the ejection port? Honestly the AR pistol is just a range toy for me, and i don't care that it is way loud and blasts gasses everywhere and the shells aren't in a nice pile on the ground. I bought it literally because it looks awesome and its fun to shoot. The bonus is that the quality and accuracy is way better than I expected from a ~$400 7.5'' pistol.
It ain't too bad, but increased wear and excessive recoil
Guns that are over gassed run the chance of bolt bounce back, which bounces the bolt out of battery causing light primer strikes.
increased buffer wight will also make recoil more manageable for fast follow up shots.
No danger. Changing the timing or adjusting the gas system on an AR is equivalent to making a car run efficiently or faster with performance upgrades.
Or you could buy an H2 buffer at 4.6oz for $18
Excellent 👍
If rounds are coming off the shell deflector and going to the red area is this still over gassed or is that where I want it?
Is this chart taking into consideration contact with defector or no?
Contact with the deflector is the only way brass will make it foreward of the 3 o'clock position because the cases are being extracted rearward by the BCG. So to answer your question, Yes the chart takes it into consideration.
Read the (if any) marks on your spent cases to see what your rifle is doing. From your description I'd say yours is overgassed with possible excessive extractor marks on the lip at the headstamp of the case if yours are landing in the red area.
Wouldn't an adjustable gas block solve that problem as well?
For the best adjustability yes. This was just intended as the cheap alternative.
the end bcg hits many unscrew there can add weights. I run h2 with mine but I run light bcgs
I don't follow the BCG unscrew part.
The 18 inch rifle length gas system is undergassed. Had to buy an adjustable gas block
An adjustable gas block will not solve any undergassing problem. It restricts the flow of gasses. It's not a pressure amplifier.
@@andrewrhodes8842 it will if the factory gas block wasnt opened up all the way. Idk but it worked
@@sategllib2191 Then the problem was the gas block not "the 18 inch rifle length gas system is undergassed" . Sometimes the port (hole) in the barrel or the gas block is drilled slightly off of it's mark resulting in misalignment or restricted gas port. You get what you pay for.
No matter how heavy the buffer is that first shot from the chamber on a over gassed system should eject in the red zone (ie 1 oclock) Why? The buffer is in the back of the gun and has nothing to do with the bolt moving and pulling the case out. The buffer does not come into play until the bolt hits it.
Pretty certain the bolt constantly rests against it doesn’t it? Or very close.
My bullet case ejects to 1 o'clock but very softly like tumbling out of the receiver. Compare to my other bolt it ejects with power very fast at 3 o'clock. Is there something wrong with the bolt? Using the same bolt carrier
ua-cam.com/video/XGx-6OXcu0Q/v-deo.html
@@rondurr7503 but the bcg is brand new.
@@rondurr7503 thanks for the info. Im gonna try it later getting a stronger upgrade spring
Those Pur Tungston weights did NOT work for me. I sent them back!
Does NOT increase reliability or ammo tolerance. how do you increase ammo tolerance? Are you sure this "fixed" you gas issue. A heavier buffer delays the unlock time (from ignition of primer) of the bolt resulting in a change in timing of when the case is extracted from chamber (case at full expansion or during contraction). A heavier buffer can change the direction of case ejection but reading spent cases will determine a more robust prescription for your rifle. Marring by the extractor of the case head would indicate extraction at full case expansion and reduction in gas at the bolt would be a better solution by using an adjustable gas block that would also reduce carbon fouling in the bolt, upper receiver and trigger group. Light longitudinal scuff marks on the case would indicate extraction at or near contraction which is better and can be remedied with your topic of discussion. Don't forget to look for brass marks on the case deflector or edges of ejection port to see where the brass is hitting. These are just a couple of examples without going down a rabbit hole or opening pandora's box, not to mention ammo selection and usability. Rule of thumb, inspect spent brass and adjust accordingly. Shoot Straight.
So I have this same ar, which variation of weights ended up working for you?
How many rounds have you put through it?
@@bereadybasics7525 only about 250 of 5.56 and 400ish of .223
@@TheOnlyMurk666 the only reason i asked was because i bought these weights but still haven't switched over to them yet. I just haven't used this rifle enough. Nor have i finished adding the accessories i bought. The AR shoots great but switching over will further "fine tune it" if you will. No weights will work the same for every rifle, same manufacture or not.
I am to testify the heavier buffer weight works. My rifle was over gassed and I think I did it to myself. This year, I got a Windham Weaponry R16 SFST 308, their AR-10 in .308 Win (7.62 x 51 mm NATO.) Their stuff comes from the factory ready to shoot. For example, I also have a Windham Weaponry M4A3 Dissipator. That has a carrying handle with iron sights and was combat zeroed from the factory. So, I already know their quality is high and the MLOK handguard and the QD holes won me over the one other strong contender.
So, how did I over gas my AR? I never fired it with the originally telescoping stock on the carbine tube. Just before the Texas Freeze is when I got it and I had decided I wanted an adjustable cheek and so, I also ordered the Magpul PRS Gen III. To mount that, I had bought at my favorite gun store a Luth AR rifle stock kit that has rifle length tube, spring and rifle length buffer. I put that on. Scope. Different bipods.
First day of shooting at a range, my first 20 rounds went okay. Federal. Then I switched to Hornady. Some failures to eject, causing double feed and jams. Carving the bottom of the brass casings. So, research, such as this vid, led me to realize that it was over-gassed. Well, the bolt carrier group has a staked gas key, so not tunable. And the gas block is not tunable. And I am not going that far on my brand new rifle. So, I had ordered from Midway USA an H3 buffer.
When i received it, I found out I had accidently ordered H3 for a carbine tube. Ay carumba. What I needed was this rifle length buffer to be heavier. I have a digital scale. And sure enough, it was below 5 ounces. So, I took out the roll pins and the rubber bumpers in the H3 I bought, the original carbine buffer that came with the rifle, and the rifle buffer and mixed and matched weights. When done, my rifle buffer weighed 6.1 ounces. A smidge heavy but not as heavy as others. There is a web site I found after the fact called heavy buffer dot com. The have 8 and 11 ounce buffers.
So, today, 03-27-2021, I went to range and the problem was solved. Smooth, comfortable. Not a single failure to extract and eject. Full stroke function. Different grain weights and muzzle velocities. Nontypical Whitetail 150 g, Federal Nosler 165 gr, Match 175 grain, it eats it all.
I would not change to a tunable gas block unless that was just a burning desire.
I have the same radical ar and it ejects somewhere between 2:00 and 3:00 why is this a bad? Does it affect the gun?
This video should be updated with more information. I wouldn't say it's bad basically it causes more wear on the components. If its shooting groups your happy with i wouldn't change anything.
Having a stiff extractor could alter ejection as well. Which these have right out the box. Put a few hundred rounds down the evaluate your personal experience with the rifle and go from there.
Just buy an H2 buffer and an adjustable gas block and be done with it?
Yeah. Find where you want it. Count threads locktite tight it back in. After gassing properly.
Adjustable gas block, Adjustable gas key, or Adjustable bolt carrier....lot easier than trying to find the correct buffer weight and you can adjust easier for different loads, subsonics, etc
If the rifle works flawlessly how do you make it operate "more flawlessly"?
Do you leave all your guns stock? That's like saying why put on a red dot when the iron sights work flawlessly. Why add a lighter trigger when the one you have makes gun go bang.
Be Ready Basics Generally there is no need to modify a firearm if it is reliable except to satisfy personal taste. Few mods help you shoot faster or straighter.
New at this stuff. Got to shoot my first ar pistol build today. (11.5 inch barrel, 5.56) I shot steel cased ammo and the ejection pattern was at about 4 o'clock. But then brass was being ejected at about 2 or 2:30.
Is this a big problem?
steel cased ammo tends to be loaded weaker, so it's undergassed compared to brass. It's not the worst thing if brass is getting ejected at 2:00, but it could mean you're having more wear on your components. An adjustable gas block would help you tune your rifle to run more optimally to run on steel or brass
I didn't respond because Mr.M hit it dead on.
Hello everyone hope all is well, so my M&P sport 2 recently started ejecting my coper in the 2 oclock position sometimes with very little forced. Also noticed that my BCG is sometimes not staying open on last round? Fairly new to the gun community and want to learn instead of a gun smith your input/suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated. Btw ive put a little over 2000 rounds thru her in about a half a year span. Stay safe everyone.
How can i tell if i have a slick side upper without the shell deflector?
I don't have a non deflector AR but some testimonies i have read 4 o'clock to 5 o'clock is perfectly normal.
@@bereadybasics7525 Ok thank you for that. Because that is exactly the course they extract.
@@CeliaShadden perfect, no one has asked that question before. Now many more can read and pass it on. Thank you
"Overgassed"? What other symptoms? If an AR is overgassed it will be giving excessive recoil, really pounding your shoulder. The bolt carrier will go back too fast, bounce off the back of the buffer tube and go back forward and stovepipe the ejected brass as it did not have time to properly eject. That's overgassed. Easiest way to fix that, Wolff (gunsprings.com) Extra Power recoil spring.
A lot of different views on here. At this point pick a method suggested and hope it works lol adjustable gas block if you want to get perfection. Or run it til it has malfunctions
What if your a lefty, will it hit you then
No, the shell deflector will do its job.
No results?!
This scenario of adjusting the buffer system ( -w- weights &/or springs ) works but is only a band. It does not address the main problem of your Rifle receiving too much Gas. It simply mitigates the symptoms but does not fix the problem.
The best way to address & tune out most gas related issues is with the addition of an Adjustable Gas Block. They cost anywhere from ( $40 - $100 ) but will allow you the ability to adjust your AR-15's gas system quickly whenever you feel it is needed.
But if you plan on adding a suppressor i believe an adjusyable gas block is mandatory. Especially when you consider the cost.
A suppressor will cost anywhere from $500 - $1,500 ( Suppressor, tax & fees & $200 Tax Stamp ). So i ferl that spending the extra $50 - $100 on an adjustable gas block to ensure that your rifle will run well with that expensive suppressor is not even worth questioning.
The best & most effective adjustable gas block on the market that i am aware of is the ( Superlative Arms "Bleed Off" ) gas block. Its roughly ( $100 ) but well worth it because it purges any extra gas out of the system & away from the rifle all together. The only adjustable gas block on the market as of ( 8 /20 ) that i am aware of that does that.
All the other adjustable gas blocks adjust the excess gas away from the recoil system / receiver but keeps it within the barrel adding to back pressure which will most certainly be bliwn back into the receiver & the shoiters face once the extraction occurs.
Just my $.04 cents.
You have the operation of a gas impingement system 100% backwards. The gas block unlocks the bolt, the chamber pressure pushes the bolt backwards.
An adjustable gas block is for fine tuning a gas impingement system. A gas impingement system is inherently overgassed at the carbine length.
Adding reciprocal mass and spring power (increase in kinetic/potential energy of the spring) is what counteracts the increase in gas from a carbine or pistol length gas system.
The adjustable gas block tunes the timing of when the bolt receives enough pressure to unlock during the fire cycle. (The fire cycle reaches 60,000PSI max chamber pressure)
Too much gas with a short gas system, and the bolt unlocks too soon, releasing too much chamber pressure into the breach of the firearm. Get it?
Build the rifle, tune the rifle. In that order.
More often than not, an adjustable gas block is not necessary.
I’ve seen the bleed off adjusters but I don’t see a good reason for one above the other as a bleed off would reduce your fps . The reason we want a X length barrel is for more fps. Some ppl won’t care especially with a silencer but theirs no good reason to bleed off any pressure you’d be more likely to get gas in your face. Simply reducing the anoint of gas to the bolt is all that’s needed. A bleed of does nothing more than drilling a tiny hole in your barrel would ! Why would u wanna do that.
Did the extra weight solve the problem?
ecology78248 im going to continue to run it stock awhile longer before adding the extra weight.
@@bereadybasics7525 You gotta be shittin me, another youtube professional that doesn't believe his own video. I'd like to know how you improve ammo tolerances too? I'm dyin to know this one.
@@deplorable-0ne
@@bereadybasics7525 Because you made a video specifically for adding weight to YOUR buffer to YOUR rifle because of where YOUR brass lands and you make a reply stating your not going through with the adding of weight. You obviously don't believe your own methods. I don't have a video nor will I make one for my suggested prescription for YOUR rifles problem "over gassed". Yes maybe I was trolling, but misinformation on youtube (specifically about firearms) is irresponsible. Get an adjustable gas block, follow instructions with the manual and enjoy your nice neat brass pile at whatever o'clock you adjust for, all the while enjoying a milder felt recoil, cleaner bolt carrier, trigger group and gas tube.
@@deplorable-0ne It was not a reply that i was not going through with it. It was a reply that i was going to leave it stock at that point in time (1 year ago) due to the fact i had only had 70 rounds through it. I think maybe someone was on the offensive here. So im deleting this whole debate but will leave your opinion for the solution. I also understand you trying to keep people safe as far as miss information with fire arms, however buffer weights is a fight i would have skipped.
I must be really over gassed. I bought an H3 and I'm still ejecting at 1:30 2 oclock
There is more depth into it as far as length of gas system, rounds, bold buffer tube spring/weight
I really wish i had gone more in depth had i known all the feed back i would get with people having this issue.
@@bereadybasics7525 -Thank you.
It's a 16 inch, carbine length gas system and I think a carbine length tube. I'm not sure of the spring weight but I just bought a wolf buffer spring I'm going to try out. I am hoping it will correct the ejection pattern. I'm just using run of the mill American Eagle 55 grain.
Another thing, my perception is that it doesn't feel overgassed. I have other overgassed rifles and red dots bounce on them. This shoots flat, smooth and with very little impulse. Should I just not worry about it or is it important?
A shot of bourbon for every time he says the word "little"
I want some bourbon 🥃 now lol
Where can I find that chart ?
I have emailed it to a few people that send their emails... ill try to find it in Google search
goo.gl/images/Q7FRS7
I searched Google images, "ar troubleshooting chart" strolled down a page or so and found a link
I had to go the other way. 18" rifle length. Had to drill out the gas port AND had to remove all the tungsten weights and make my buffer into carbine weight. I'm using a Geissele spring which is stiffer, so I'm sure that didn't help me.
My buffer's front face unscrews. Way easier than yours.
Which one do you have?
He must hate me 😢
All civilian rifles are over gassed
WHY DIDN’T YOU SHOW HOW YOU REMOVED THE PIN ON THE BUFFER WEIGHT? THAT IS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART!
If you find that part difficult, you shouldn't own tools.
Shawn McAtee uhhhh you obviously have never done this with anything that’s of high grade Precision with really tight tolerances. You probably buy radical firearms uppers and PSA lowers LOL
@@sttvoyager1727 Ah, no. The complication of an AR15 is child's play in comparison to the things I have worked on. Advanced multistage suspension systems, aligning Klystron tubes, to +/- .0003", 1000+ horsepower racing engines. Laying out drill patterns to +/- .0005 by hand...an AR? Are you kidding me? It's a freakin toy, mechanically speaking.
Your weapon should be on "SAFE", not "FIRE".
Should probably put your weapon on safe there bud.
An empty mag well and chamber is not enough for you??... bud
Think it'll be okay, Dave.
Oh yes. The safety selector should be the first part you install on a build. Even before you have your stripped lower. Make a cardboard layout of your rifle and bore a hole in the appropriate location on your mock up receiver. Install the selector in the SAFE position. This is very important! Anything can happen regardless of whether you own a fire control group, or a bolt. Noobie, Pleeez.
Can't put an AR on safe without cocking the hammer back (cycling the bolt) there bud.
This video gave me the shits
These are junk