Your ability to explain how these nitro engines work is impressive in addition, your humor always makes me laugh out loud !! looking forward to these kind of videos. Thank you.
Thanks for watchin! I'm glad it has helped ya! When I started nitro 23 years ago there was VHS tapes DVD and old timers. You really had to Fend for yourself back then. As UA-cam didn't exist yet haha
damn thats crazy you came along way With the RC hobby I just started doing it this year and at first I didn't know anything what I was doing basically destroyed my first motor through trial and error but then I found your videos and now I take apart my engine before I even start them for the first time and I also change the piston rod every 2 gallons and now my engines last a lot longer thanks to you. thank you for spreading all your knowledge with all of us Can't wait to see more of your videos in the future!
HPI used to offer an oil catch that attaches to the block behind the flywheel, even they knew it would never be a perfect seal. It’s nice to see a visual explanation, great video
Interesting. I've been messing around with some airplane engines recently. One of them is a brand-new K&B .40. On it's first runs I had it set pretty rich to let the piston ring wear in, and noticed it dribbling from the front of the engine. I actually thought there was a problem with the bearing and swapped it out for one that has a rubber seal. It doesn't drip, but it does put out a fine spray right from the seal...If you hold your hand just behind the prop it'll get wet from the mist of fuel. The other engine I ran on the test stand today is also a K&B, a 'Sportster .45', which is broken in and a plain bearing design (no ball races). I ran it at pretty close to a good fuel trim and noticed it didn't leak anything at all. Your hand stays dry behind the prop.
My radgua 7m is a plane bearing 40 and it doesn't leak a drop. But my Enya 60 bearing engine drips a little when running at lower rpm its a control line engine so only a fuel needle and to lower the rpms you have to tune very rich
My Traxxas 3.3 leaks out fuel through the front bearing really bad. The engine won't pull any fuel into the carburetor because of the loss of vacuum pressure. I have already checked for rips in the fuel tubing and for cracks in the tank.
If you have any exhaust leaks or the port on the pipe is plugged it won't push any fuel either. And if you flood the engine with fuel trying to start it it will push it past the front bearing even if it's new. Also if that's the case how are the engine without a sealed bearing running? Lots of them are just a metal dust cover. No seal at all. Like how I showed in the video if you watched it.
What about a worn out front bearing letting the crankshaft have side play and disrupting the fluid seal in that groove? I'm still kinda new...and learning as I pit for my son who's racing nitros now...
I have seen them have play and still run not to bad but if the crank is walking in the block you got big problems haha a lot of people freak out when they see a drop of oil then replace the bearings only to find out it does the same thing. Witch is low speed needle to rich the bottom end is loaded with fuel and will push it out the front of the engine
Nice video that is informative and I'll wait for the stupid apocalypse that is going to follow! Keep on burning nitro, gas , love it. Only one compound missed burning rubber!
Thank you for this I'm about to change my front a rear bearing in my 3.3 motor more then likely the front bearing is leaking but I can hear the the rear one when I take off its loud as hell. But I want to point out those were two different type of bearing you showed one was a ball bearing the other was a roller bearing they serve the same purpose but they are different much luv to ya great video
I have a revo 3.3 and i could not tune it to save my life. Super high idle constantly. Set the needles back to factory. Still high idle, cutting out and temps at 300 with the body off. I found my front bearing leaking air from the inner race, around the crank.... like a decent amount of air. So are you saying this is normal? My revo is literally a week old. No other air leaks from anywhere. Running the same blue thunder fuel i run in all my nitros. I sent the motor in since i still have the engine warranty.
You can replace the front bearing as many times as you want. it leaks no matter what. the reason why it leaks is because your low speed needle is tuned too rich your idol speed is too high also you may have something like a fuel or exhaust system league the factory carb is known for issues. Or your trim is holding throttle. Go to the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook
Brother you can tell the ppl that don't understand Nitro or how they work!! Good vids Man keep up the Intelligent work and info!! 😂 It's just a dust cover hehehe on front bearing 😂😂
Uncle Ned 😆 🤣. Great video. Wish I had the know how of making a nitro engine. But no I became a boring HVAC tech. It would be so cool to be a CNC machinist.
Yeah get old uncle ned always in there telling you what they did back in the day that makes absolutely no sense today haha And there is people that do it obviously skilled machinists that make diesel and Nitro engines from scratch it's pretty impressive
Please could you explain o.s and how the compression lasts. I have two race engines. One two big meets old. Broken in with blanket on heat. Ad2 Seems to have lots of compression still 10l in I have the ultimate mxs, and it's a square stroke it was ebis. And it doesn't feel as strong in comparison. As I was learning and I was to keep both as race engines, what would you do to have them ready for next race meet, as I'm worried the mxs falls through its stroke almost. Is this because it's a square stroke? Edit it is possible to be the rod, once taking glow plug out. It has a sloppy rod
Thanks Matt and that 46 he will see a run video as soon as I find a prop driver for it I'm pretty sure I have one I just need to locate it. In my sea of junk haha
I have an oil hole in my 3.5 knb marine engine crankcase behind front bearing to oil bearings after a run in water to keep from rusting ,never effected my tuning or ran lean from this ..idk
Hey man really like your videos any chance you could make a video on superchargers for rc engines If they work or just not worth it (rb innovations traxxas 3.3)thanks
Hi I just finished rebuilding my hpi savage.25 with lrp 28 spec 4 do you know what side pipe I can run with it besides the Ribbed pipe I sold mine by mistake not realizing how hard hpi savage pipe is to find ?
Actually I believe there is a really small hole in the case that feeds fuel to the front bearing. So it’s not your overly rich tune that lubes the front bearing. It’s designed to lube it so it doesn’t explode. A bad front seal just makes this continuous lubrication obvious. But the oil hole is very small
@@thebug4046 ohh ok I’ve never read anything about it. Just assumed based on observation. But lots of great info here about the wet seal. I never knew this
@@michaelinzitari Yeah it's a thing that's been going around for a long time with a lot of disinformation about it unfortunately and people replacing their front bearing every couple of days trying to figure out why it's leaking haha
Hey bugs thanks for the video. I literally just had this conversation this weekend but wasn’t sure if it was true… is there any truth to the myth of extending the fuel line to reduce the fuel pressure going into the carb? Thanks and sorry if this is a stupid question. 👍🏼
Hey there's no such thing as a stupid question glad you asked and yes you want to use a silicone fuel tubing if you don't use something like chainsaw fuel tubing it will melt and fall apart that's not what you want to have happened make sure you check for all fuel and exhaust system leaks very important for the best performance possible!
hey, is it normal for nitro to be literally everywhere after a good 10min run ? like all over the place? I know its not a hose or my tank seal, im absolutely new to this and don't know if it's normal, I have a hsp warhead
@@michaelfear4801 Oh hey sorry I should have mentioned that it's a Facebook group I'm in there as an Admin just be sure to answer the 3 questions post up the conundrum you're having and I will be sure to comment on it the Admin and dark sunglasses 😎
Awesome vid dude, love learning new stuff, I knew that seal doesn't do squat but the liquid seal thats a new one. I've said it before the movie idiocracy is a damn documentary lol its exactly where we're headed
Try a different pipe run a 30/9 fuel If it has a flange style exhaust header you can always port match those for better flow and less restriction. I will make a video explaining that later. 🍻
@@davepalmer3565 port mach the exhaust header to the inside of the exhaust gasket that will help a lot a long with a pipe upgrade and fuel. Other than that that's it. Nothing else available that will fit without Is modifying the entire vehicle to fit it in there
It probably possible to seal the engine the way you were talking about at the end IV seen that same design one more the one water booster pump that are oil liberating seal that same way 👍👌💯 tell you the truth though I don't care for the design just because if the shaft has any mark or scratch it will leak and depending on model the placement of the seals are tearable most of the time and can roll the lip seal really easy so there not the easiest to get them to seal right that for sure but is very possible the worst thing that iv seen a lot of is if you don't have enough lube/oil in that type of design the lip seals will cut and groove the shaft in min's from friction. The why I'd go is a ceramic rubber micanical seal they coast way more though then a lip seal 3x more but it a lot less likely to leak or give a problem. it also has to have a little pressure on the seal for it to seal.✌️👍👌💯🛠️🏎️⛲
Your ability to explain how these nitro engines work is impressive in addition, your humor always makes me laugh out loud !!
looking forward to these kind of videos.
Thank you.
You're very welcome! And thank for watchin! 💯🍻
Love seeing all your videos you've showed me how to properly take care of these engines and made my whole RC experience 10 times better!!
Thanks for watchin! I'm glad it has helped ya! When I started nitro 23 years ago there was VHS tapes DVD and old timers. You really had to Fend for yourself back then. As UA-cam didn't exist yet haha
damn thats crazy you came along way With the RC hobby I just started doing it this year and at first I didn't know anything what I was doing basically destroyed my first motor through trial and error but then I found your videos and now I take apart my engine before I even start them for the first time and I also change the piston rod every 2 gallons and now my engines last a lot longer thanks to you. thank you for spreading all your knowledge with all of us Can't wait to see more of your videos in the future!
HPI used to offer an oil catch that attaches to the block behind the flywheel, even they knew it would never be a perfect seal. It’s nice to see a visual explanation, great video
Yeah I remember there was a few companies that offered that little condom for the front of the engine it never really did anything. Haha
@@thebug4046Condom lol! I’m gonna use that term for it now
I found Davis Diesel Traxxas 2.5/3.3 Connecting Rods still available for sale! Premium Price but still available.
Holy crap that's awesome!
Link??
Interesting. I've been messing around with some airplane engines recently. One of them is a brand-new K&B .40. On it's first runs I had it set pretty rich to let the piston ring wear in, and noticed it dribbling from the front of the engine. I actually thought there was a problem with the bearing and swapped it out for one that has a rubber seal. It doesn't drip, but it does put out a fine spray right from the seal...If you hold your hand just behind the prop it'll get wet from the mist of fuel. The other engine I ran on the test stand today is also a K&B, a 'Sportster .45', which is broken in and a plain bearing design (no ball races). I ran it at pretty close to a good fuel trim and noticed it didn't leak anything at all. Your hand stays dry behind the prop.
My radgua 7m is a plane bearing 40 and it doesn't leak a drop. But my Enya 60 bearing engine drips a little when running at lower rpm its a control line engine so only a fuel needle and to lower the rpms you have to tune very rich
My Traxxas 3.3 leaks out fuel through the front bearing really bad. The engine won't pull any fuel into the carburetor because of the loss of vacuum pressure. I have already checked for rips in the fuel tubing and for cracks in the tank.
If you have any exhaust leaks or the port on the pipe is plugged it won't push any fuel either. And if you flood the engine with fuel trying to start it it will push it past the front bearing even if it's new. Also if that's the case how are the engine without a sealed bearing running? Lots of them are just a metal dust cover. No seal at all. Like how I showed in the video if you watched it.
What about a worn out front bearing letting the crankshaft have side play and disrupting the fluid seal in that groove? I'm still kinda new...and learning as I pit for my son who's racing nitros now...
I have seen them have play and still run not to bad but if the crank is walking in the block you got big problems haha a lot of people freak out when they see a drop of oil then replace the bearings only to find out it does the same thing. Witch is low speed needle to rich the bottom end is loaded with fuel and will push it out the front of the engine
U do good work not much common sense these days
Thanks man and sadly Common sense isn't too common anymore.
Nice video that is informative and I'll wait for the stupid apocalypse that is going to follow! Keep on burning nitro, gas , love it. Only one compound missed burning rubber!
Hell yeah 😎
This makes sense as I switched a engine with fast eddies and still leaked must be the tune
I don't run there bearings anymore. Had a few let go on me. And yeah if it leaks regardless of the bearing its being run to rich or over oiled
Unfortunately, the stupid apocalypse is the understatement of this decade or the start of this decade, and so many facets and areas of life in general
Hahaha no kidding buddy it's unreal!
Thank you for this I'm about to change my front a rear bearing in my 3.3 motor more then likely the front bearing is leaking but I can hear the the rear one when I take off its loud as hell. But I want to point out those were two different type of bearing you showed one was a ball bearing the other was a roller bearing they serve the same purpose but they are different much luv to ya great video
None of these engines use roller bearings they are all ball bearing
I have a revo 3.3 and i could not tune it to save my life. Super high idle constantly. Set the needles back to factory. Still high idle, cutting out and temps at 300 with the body off. I found my front bearing leaking air from the inner race, around the crank.... like a decent amount of air. So are you saying this is normal? My revo is literally a week old. No other air leaks from anywhere. Running the same blue thunder fuel i run in all my nitros. I sent the motor in since i still have the engine warranty.
You can replace the front bearing as many times as you want. it leaks no matter what. the reason why it leaks is because your low speed needle is tuned too rich your idol speed is too high also you may have something like a fuel or exhaust system league the factory carb is known for issues. Or your trim is holding throttle. Go to the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook
Brother you can tell the ppl that don't understand Nitro or how they work!! Good vids Man keep up the Intelligent work and info!! 😂 It's just a dust cover hehehe on front bearing 😂😂
Hey man! Yeah I've been trying to bust all this nonsense myth crap that keeps coming out day after day hahaha
@@thebug4046 doing a great job Brother!! Next!!
Uncle Ned 😆 🤣. Great video. Wish I had the know how of making a nitro engine. But no I became a boring HVAC tech. It would be so cool to be a CNC machinist.
Yeah get old uncle ned always in there telling you what they did back in the day that makes absolutely no sense today haha And there is people that do it obviously skilled machinists that make diesel and Nitro engines from scratch it's pretty impressive
Please could you explain o.s and how the compression lasts.
I have two race engines. One two big meets old. Broken in with blanket on heat. Ad2
Seems to have lots of compression still 10l in
I have the ultimate mxs, and it's a square stroke it was ebis. And it doesn't feel as strong in comparison.
As I was learning and I was to keep both as race engines, what would you do to have them ready for next race meet, as I'm worried the mxs falls through its stroke almost. Is this because it's a square stroke?
Edit it is possible to be the rod, once taking glow plug out. It has a sloppy rod
Sounds like it's time to rebuild them. I don't have any os engines like the one you are describing. I only have old os CV Engines from the 90s
Great job man! Hey you gotta fix the title of the video. Fat fingered it. “Does” not Dose. Keep up the good work 👍👍
Shit thanks for noticing! Haha 💯👌🏻
Good vid bro, nice to see those engine seeing the light of day 👍
Thanks Matt and that 46 he will see a run video as soon as I find a prop driver for it I'm pretty sure I have one I just need to locate it. In my sea of junk haha
I have an oil hole in my 3.5 knb marine engine crankcase behind front bearing to oil bearings after a run in water to keep from rusting ,never effected my tuning or ran lean from this ..idk
That's pretty interesting I have never seen that before. Very cool
Hey man really like your videos any chance you could make a video on superchargers for rc engines If they work or just not worth it (rb innovations traxxas 3.3)thanks
Keep your eye out in the next 45 minutes. Your questions will be answered.. 😉🤘🏻
looks like skateboard wheel bearings!!!
Kind
Hi I just finished rebuilding my hpi savage.25 with lrp 28 spec 4 do you know what side pipe I can run with it besides the Ribbed pipe I sold mine by mistake not realizing how hard hpi savage pipe is to find ?
There is aluminum ones on eBay if you look up HPI savage exhaust pipes
Thank you for this very informative video…!!!
No worries
Actually I believe there is a really small hole in the case that feeds fuel to the front bearing. So it’s not your overly rich tune that lubes the front bearing. It’s designed to lube it so it doesn’t explode. A bad front seal just makes this continuous lubrication obvious. But the oil hole is very small
There's a few different designs and some say it's an oil hole some say it's a vacuum port different manufacturers say different things 🤷🏻♂️
@@thebug4046 ohh ok I’ve never read anything about it. Just assumed based on observation. But lots of great info here about the wet seal. I never knew this
@@michaelinzitari Yeah it's a thing that's been going around for a long time with a lot of disinformation about it unfortunately and people replacing their front bearing every couple of days trying to figure out why it's leaking haha
Are which other powerful engine could I fit in my WR8
What engine does it have?
Hpi 3.0 high out put
Hey bugs thanks for the video. I literally just had this conversation this weekend but wasn’t sure if it was true… is there any truth to the myth of extending the fuel line to reduce the fuel pressure going into the carb? Thanks and sorry if this is a stupid question.
👍🏼
Hey there's no such thing as a stupid question glad you asked and yes you want to use a silicone fuel tubing if you don't use something like chainsaw fuel tubing it will melt and fall apart that's not what you want to have happened make sure you check for all fuel and exhaust system leaks very important for the best performance possible!
hey, is it normal for nitro to be literally everywhere after a good 10min run ? like all over the place? I know its not a hose or my tank seal, im absolutely new to this and don't know if it's normal, I have a hsp warhead
If you have an exhaust leak absolutely or you have a hole somewhere in the fuel system. Check for exhaust leaks
@thebug4046 I'll take a short video of it if that will help?
@@michaelfear4801 post up in the Nitro RC enthusiasts group i will see it
@thebug4046 no idea what that is, I uploaded it to UA-cam, sorry man
@@michaelfear4801 Oh hey sorry I should have mentioned that it's a Facebook group I'm in there as an Admin just be sure to answer the 3 questions post up the conundrum you're having and I will be sure to comment on it the Admin and dark sunglasses 😎
Awesome vid dude, love learning new stuff, I knew that seal doesn't do squat but the liquid seal thats a new one. I've said it before the movie idiocracy is a damn documentary lol its exactly where we're headed
Hey man glad you found it useful! KBN!"
What can i do tomy wr8 Nitro engine to get mor power out of it
Try a different pipe run a 30/9 fuel If it has a flange style exhaust header you can always port match those for better flow and less restriction. I will make a video explaining that later. 🍻
@@thebug4046 its a 3.0 engine
The max speed i got is 37 would like a 48 to 50
@@davepalmer3565 port mach the exhaust header to the inside of the exhaust gasket that will help a lot a long with a pipe upgrade and fuel. Other than that that's it. Nothing else available that will fit without Is modifying the entire vehicle to fit it in there
Myths busted, again. Good stuff, amigo. Further, dumbasses are everywhere. Avoid them at all costs!
It's almost scary the amount of nonsense people come up with haha
It probably possible to seal the engine the way you were talking about at the end IV seen that same design one more the one water booster pump that are oil liberating seal that same way 👍👌💯 tell you the truth though I don't care for the design just because if the shaft has any mark or scratch it will leak and depending on model the placement of the seals are tearable most of the time and can roll the lip seal really easy so there not the easiest to get them to seal right that for sure but is very possible the worst thing that iv seen a lot of is if you don't have enough lube/oil in that type of design the lip seals will cut and groove the shaft in min's from friction. The why I'd go is a ceramic rubber micanical seal they coast way more though then a lip seal 3x more but it a lot less likely to leak or give a problem. it also has to have a little pressure on the seal for it to seal.✌️👍👌💯🛠️🏎️⛲
Makes sense. How you are expanding it. It's amazing how shit like that can actually work under pressure and vacuum
@@thebug4046 no kidding and what it actually do in a good design how long it can last if ran right💯🛠️✌️👍👌🍻
@@josephsaucedo8691 agreed! I have seen a lot of weird stuff over the years Haha
Second 🍻
3rd
Great job man! Hey you gotta fix the title of the video. Fat fingered it. “Does” not Dose. Keep up the good work 👍👍