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IWE Check Valve Replacement On a Ford F150
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2019
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/ @dcfgarage
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This video explains how to replace the integrated wheel end (IWE) on Ford F150s that have four wheel drive. The IWE is a vacuum system that engages and disengages the front wheel hubs. When the check valve goes bad, it looses the ability to hold the vacuum and the front wheel hubs tries to engage involuntarily. It’s a simple fix that if neglected, can lead to damage on the front wheel hubs and an expensive repair.
Check valve part # FL34-7A788-AD
* This is the part for my 2015 F150. Make sure it works for your year too before you buy.
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Disclaimer
The information contained in this video is provided "as is", and should be used for directional purposes. Always follow safety procedures and understand the legal implications of any modifications you might make to your vehicle. Several factors beyond my control might change the information provided in this video. I do my best to provide the most accurate and complete information possible, however, I shall not take any liability for property damage and injury occurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use it at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any implied or expressed warranty, or liability.
One more happy viewer. 2018 F150 Lariat driver. Our symptoms were when 2H knob was switched on, there would be an intermittent grind noise when slow to medium speed. However when switched to 4A or 4H - the noise goes away. That means the solenoid works, since it switches. But the check valve would leak and allowed the front wheels to grind when they try to lock. Makes perfect sense. Thank you! 😊
A perfect video that outlined and detailed my problem. Straight to the point repair that kept me from spending $700 at the dealership for what would have been an unnecessary fix. You sir, are a blessing in disguise! If you’re ever in central Ohio let me know, I owe you a beer 🍺
I’m really happy it helped!!!
Very easy to understand and wish I had watched this before taking it to the shop.
Man, Thank you! That completely stopped the random grinding noise/ vibration under my 2018 F150 limited. Freaking amazing
Happy it helped!!!
What the heck is it called, what do I tell the guys at the store to get
@@brianparker6294 YG-429 is part number for the valve it’s self. That’s all I replaced on mine and it fixed the issue
@@slepht5468 I replace the solenoid first and it solved it but I have the part now also
@@slepht5468 simple fixes…..
Fixed my issue as well on my 17 F150. It was under warranty, but the part was $20. So it was either wait a week for dealership or fix it today for $20. Easy fix. Thanks 👍
That's great to hear!
Where did you guys get the part?
Same mine also under warranty but $25 took care of the problem today
Dealership only get the updated line has the part number on a sticker and color of the valve is different I'm about 9 months late on the answer sorry about that !!! Now that said if u can't get to a dealer right then say u are on a trip u can unplug it and let the hubs Engage and the grinding will stop until you get the new part what is happening is its starting to Engage the coupling link with one set of gears turning and the other not . Hope this helps some 1 out one day !! Make sure to block/cap the vacuum line going to engine if u are not sure crank the truck it will be sucking air making noise !!
thanks brother great demonstration plain simple. Took my truck to the dealership all they did was put "4x4 grinding noise" in remarks and give it back.... incompetence as usual.
DevilsSpawn3 it’s always unpleasant when we must go. I’m editing a video on a TSB I had applied to my truck and it was a nightmare.
I just sent this video to my dealer. He's been trying for 2 weeks to figure out the grinding noise on my 17 F150. Thanks
Hey Vince. That is normally the simplest issue with the IWE grinding. If that doesn;t solve, you can try the IWE solenoid, or check for a vacuum leak. The worst case scenario would be the IWE hub leaking.
@@dcfgarage Thanks Dan Dealer is a stone head, says it's definitely not it. But they still can't find out the problem. If they can't fix it I'll change the check valve myself. Thanks
@@vinceb9310 All dealers are clueless. I have several horror stories with Ford. Sometimes it's a vacuum leak that causes the IWE to grind. Those are harder to find. But normally the check valve is the first thing that goes bad.
You might also consider the heat shields. The F150s have several of them. Sometimes the heat shield next tot he exhaust manifold is loose, and that too can cause a rattle. That is also a simple fix.
@@dcfgarage Hi Dan, Thanks for the advice, I had the underside of the truck all checked out, all the shields are tight and in place. I replaced the IWE check valve myself ( less than 1 minute job) and I haven't heard the grind. Fingers crossed.
@@vinceb9310 Fingers crossed!
I have a 2015 Ford F-150 Platinum with 60k miles. Mine were grinding pretty bad when I came to a stop at around 15 mph going down you would feel a horrible grind and I thought it was my brakes or rotors. Got them changed and still felt the grinding and was confused. I found this page and changed that exact part and the grinding went away. Thank you for posting this video and saving me a lot of money by going to the dealership. Part only cost $30 at a Ford Dealer
That's awesome Anthony! Don't forget to subscribe!
Hey Bro what is the part number?
Thank you for making this video! I just changed mine out tonight.
Sometimes I miss my '79, and the old lock-the-hubs routine, lol ☺️
I second that! But for the newer F150s you can replace the IWE with a fixed hub. That get's rid of this hassle. However, you do lose some MPGs
Nostalgia has a way of remembering things fondly. I know what you mean but most of the time I am very grateful I can go to 4X so effortlessly. I'm usually not in the mood to have one more thing to do while working in the truck.
Thank you....Exactly what I needed to see, dealer wanted to charge me over $400 for this fix...….By the way that drive looks awful darn familiar. I get the feeling we're neighbors. ;)
Robert Roderick that’s great to hear! Being tired of stealerships is the exact reason I started fixing my vehicles and created this channel. We might be neighbors if u live in central FL
What the miles on your truck?
Patial engagement can also be a leak in the rubber hoses. Common for them to wear through where its zip tied behind the tires. Happened on mine.
How did u check them?
If u don't have a smoke machine just take a look .
You can use a brake bleeder to apply vacuum and listen or bend the rubber lines and look for cracks
Best explanation and Instruction video I've seen for this thank you man
Thanks!
Thank you for your video . Saved a trip to the shop .
this is an excellent video, I just replaced mine and did not fix the issue. Next step is replace the lines, I think someone replaced them and did not route them properly. One is going through the frame which I think is incorrect. This is on a 2019 F150
My 2017 3.5 Ecoboost is having this same problem. Although I don't hear the grinding until I am running about 68mph and am on the throttle. It goes away when I let off. This part is coming in this morning so hopefully this fixes everything. Thanks for the instructional video. Update on my truck coming soon.
You're welcome. Let me know if it doesn't solve it
@@dcfgarage Did it fixed your truck?
@@alexcelis9223 In my case, it did. But because mine had the defective check valve that ford revised later on. Other causes of your IWE partially engaging can be a the solenoid (rare on the 2015+), vacuum leak on the hoses or a vacuum leak on the IWE itself.
@@dcfgarage Got the Check Valve installed and so far the grinding is gone. Hopefully I caught the problem early enough. Thanks again brother!🤝
Alex Celis great news!
This video is very Helpful
My friend had this issue, The local Ford dealer said his front hubs were bad and wanted $3200 to fix. He found this fix online and it worked. He went back to Ford to complain and the service manager said that is the Factory recommended. Replace the hubs along with the vacuum check valve. Stealership strikes again.
Hit the ground running That’s why we shouldn’t listen to Ford’s or dealerships recommendations. Thanks for sharing
Stealership CROOKED f cks
1:37
This is what my dealer just texted me. $1400 for all. I wanna buy this valve at Napa and check.
I have the same vacuum issue on my 2018 F150. I have found a workaround to cycle the 4WD system every time I do a cold start. After that it appears to be ok (I assumes it's generating enough vacuum pressure to hold for a certain time). Obviously not right. I do have a question though: I do want to replace the vacuum check valve. The part number on mine ends in -AC, the part you used in your video is -AD. I would assume that is a newer design. When I called Ford they only show the -AC for my truck, should I try to find the -AD online to get the newer part?
Mine 2016 been doing that sound very loud just when I push the gas pedal or If is very cold out, I’m gonna order the part ASAP I hope 🤞 it works on mine Thank you for the good explanation
Yener López if the valve doesn’t solve, look at the heat shields for the exhaust. Those tend to make noise too
Daniel CarFix I will thank you again
Did you fix the problem?
Rove Va
Yes, I went to the dealer ordered the part and put on my truck and the sound disappear thank God and thanks to the video now it’s 9 months already and still working fine with out the sound
Thank you for this video what is the motorcraft part number?
THANK YOU SIR !!!.,..... you may have saved me a lot of money
I hope I did. Thank!
Would this cause an issue with steering. Make it feel like it’s sticking
Do you have the link for the new valve?
This is happening to my 2011 f 150 eco boost I called local auto parts they have the solenoid but not ice check valve.I tried the links you provided and nothing is there. Can you help me find the part?I even went to auto zone and read them part number and nothing.
Thank you, your video was very useful
Happy it helped
Seems like the same symptoms I’m experiencing. Got mine ordered today, hopefully that will take care of it
Let us know how it goes
I just ordered mine too, hoping that fixes the problem.
Didn’t fix mine, looks like I’m going to end up just replacing the IWE’s. Oh well, might as well throw in a leveling kit while I’m in there...
Where are you ordering from
@@summerlovin4214 directly from the ford website.
Waiting for the part to arrive today, hope it solved my grinding sound
I hope it does
I fix my truck thank you !!!
That's great news!!!! Share the channel with your friend. Help me grow ;-)
Im having vibration issues on my passenger side. All suspension is new, my 4x4 transfer case did stop working but i dont think that should cause problems with the actuators. I checked vacuum at the actuators and i had good vacuum. Checked the hoses going to the actuators and good vacuum too, next is to check the solenoid. With the truck on i do have vacuum on the driver side but on the passenger side the vacuum is too weak. Thinking its the solenoid maybe.
I just drove from Phoenix (+ 25c) to Edmonton (-25c) and i could head the grinding noise when making a left only. Could this be moisture in the lines freezing up?
SD This type of grinding normally happens under low engine rpms. If it grinds on the right side when you make a slow left turn, it could be a leak in the vacuum system. When it's the check valve, normally both sides grind, and you don't have to be making a turn.
I did it. I now need to monitor it. I hope I didn't damage the hub. I was on a trip when it started.
:(
I had IWE issues on my same year and model truck 3.5L ecoboost. Dealer first replaced IWE on driver side, then passenger side few months later. Always bad when I turned. Now that it’s out of warranty it’s happening on the driver side again. I’ve heard that vacuum lines cause this issue as well. If it grinds when I’m driving I can turn to 4wd H and I can hear it pop back into place. Also when I use 4wd I cannot turn and keep even a low pace. The truck surges and lunges. Have you had any similar issues since?
I haven’t had issues since. Other than the check valve, it could be the solenoid, a line or the IWE boot. There are some ways to diagnose the boot and the lines
What’s the hose above the one you replaced? Mines dry rotten and I’m needing a new one.
I believe that’s a vacuum hose
I have an 06 that has constantly engaged wheel axle on driver side. Seems like a weaker vacuum to that side so I take it there’s a leak before or at that wheel. However 4 low works and engages the passenger wheel
I think you’re on the right track. That pretty much eliminates the solenoid. As the passengers side is working. Being an 06 , I’d start replacing the vacuum lines
Daniel CarFix is there any damage done if I took the vacuum off the working side so both are locked into their axels. But not at front driveshaft? Isn’t that the same as how my ‘03 works?
I got mine replace with same part number as the blue check valve. But mind is colored black. I’m just wondering if they made a mistake with their part number
CZ TS !!! I don’t think so. The defective part had a different part number
So, my truck only does this when it's super cold or we have had a lot of snow and ice. It did it last winter and I thought it was ice or snow up under the truck and that was hitting or grinding on something. I only get the noise and sensation when I am turning left and only while in motion. I can turn the wheel all the way both ways when I'm parked, and no grinding. I saw this video and replaced the IWE Check Valve. I should also say I have a 2018 Ford F150. Anyways, I changed the valve, and not change. Still get the grinding noise when I turn. It has to have something to do with the cold because that's the only time it happens.... Any ideas of what it could be????
Hi Alan. In your case, it could also be a leak in the IWE or a leak in the lines. In a 2018 truck it's unlikely to be the solenoid. I would test the IWE first for vacuum leak and then test the lines.
I'm changing the same part on my 2013 f150 the part number is bl34-7a788-aa and dosent pop up in search parts I don't get it I think the parts the same though.
This worked for mine. I changed out the check valve. Cost $6 and took about one minute. Problem solved
Did your make the sound at all times? My makes a grinding sound when it is super cold out and I am accelerating.
Not all the time. Only when accelerating and under 2500 rpms. Keep in mind that this is just one simple fix of the vacuum check valve that was updated by ford because it would go bad. But anything along the vacuum lines can be leaking, including the IWE hubs themselves.
Tucker Ksiazek it will usually get worse with time
changed mine out but still get the grinding but not as often, what is it that is grinding, should I change out the check valve too,
I would vacuum test both IWEs before
Can wait to see if this the issue with my truck i feel a rattle in front of my feet wverytime i accelerate, i hope its not the turbo
I just replaced the solenoid in mine and it's still doing it. How are the valve I replaced and the valve you replaced different in function?
The solenoid is what actuates the vacuum system for the IWE. The check valves are just one way valves. It becomes deflective when it doesn't hold vacuum and let's the air flow back. This makes the IWE engage in the hub and you hear the grinding noise.
2005 lariat f150 hatchback removal
Is there any issue with removing the vacuum line and the system needing to create vacuum again? Or is that automatic once the truck is running again with the new lines?
Yes you can Rubber cap over both ends it'll only engage the hubs but not 4wd until you select it and transfer case gets activated
My 2011 does it at acceleration and low rpm cruising like going up a little hill in overdrive. When it gets under a little load it starts grinding and quits when things level out. So it's losing vacume somewhere. I'm fixing to head to Ford and get a new one and I sure hope it fixes it. I'd rather not tear the front wheel all to pieces to put a new iwe hub on 😦.
On your generation truck it's likely to be this
Subscribed ✅✅ Thanks!
Thansk!
I’m confused. My 2017 experienced the chatter suddenly. I took it directly to the dealer and the IWE hubs were changed on both sides. However, I still heard the chattering, although not as persistent at macerate speeds, but more persistent at interstate speeds. I watched your video and decided to change out the check valve following your instructions. On the test drive, I heard the noise at moderate speeds, and at interstate speeds.
After a brief stop, I drove again, and didn’t hear the chattering, so I’m confused. Is it possible that the system needed to reseal?
Could be a minor leak in one of those vacuum hoses
Silly question, would it make the noise sitting still? My 2016 5.0 just started making this noise today and it first sounded like a heat shield noise. I laid under the truck while a friend accelerated (in park of course, LOL) and it sounded more mechanical. Truck runs and drives fine, even shifted into 4 wheel high and the noise still happens (intermittently as it does in 2wd). only 53k on the clock. Any idea?
Hey Greg. The IWE will only make noise if the truck is moving. If you hear that noise with the truck parked, it's very likely the heat shield if the truck is driving normally. My truck also had a loose heatshield next to the exhaust manifold that made a horrible noise that I initially thought was the transmission.
@@dcfgarage loose clamp on exhaust near transfer case for me
@@paulmartins6023 thanks for sharing. That’s great knowledge
Good video thanks!!
Thanks
Do you need to replace the solenoid ? Just wondering how many miles to replace the solenoid? Since it is a maintenance parts.
CZ TS !!! The solenoid should last fot the life of the truck. You should only replace it of it has gone bad. Check out this post explaining everything about the IWE. www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-s/371599-everything-you-wanted-know-about-iwe-system-then-some.html
Daniel CarFix thanks
I have a weird, intermittent noise on my 2015 F150 4x4 as well. Sounds like it's from the driver's side wheel. It seems to happen just below 2,000 rpms and turning slightly to the right.
At first, I thought a hub was going bad. But after checking both, everything seemed OK. Neither were loose or wobbly and rolled without any creaking or grinding noises. I was a little puzzled. Now, after seeing your video, I'm pretty sure it's the same problem you had. Will be heading to the local Ford dealer tomorrow for a replacement. If not in stock, I'll order it.
Also, I'll update this comment as soon as I get the new part installed.
Thanks for sharing. Let us know the outcome. Keep in mind that if it's not the check valve, it can be a vacuum leak in the lines.
Well did it fix the issue?
Please update, this sounds like my problem.
I do have the same issue but strong grinding sound. I did ordered the part any got it fixed but still the issue is there. Please advise 😓💔💔
Then your IWE is probably the culprit. There are some videos ou there on how to vacuum test the iwe to make seure
Is there suppose to be vacuum coming out of the solenoid into the hubs when truck is on 2wd engine on?
Because I don’t have no vacuum at all.
If the truck is on, yes. The vacuum will disengage the iwe
@@dcfgarage I get no vacuum from the top port of the solenoid.
That's an improper method of testing the 4wd system. It actually needs to be driven in 2wd and 4wd to verify the repair because the instrument cluster doesn't verify that the front hubs actually engage (as proven with the issue I'm having with hubs not engaging even after a repair).
I'm having the same problem with my brand new (used) 2017 f150 with the occasional random grinding noise and 4x4 not engaging in spite of what the cluster says. In my case though, the problem is seeming harder to fix.
This is just a simple fix of a known bad valve that’s been revised on the realm of things that can go wrong with these vacuum 4x4 systems. One thing you can do is to replace the hub actuator for one that’s constantly engaged like older and more reliable 4x4 systems. This hub that Ford created was really to improve fuel efficiency
Daniel CarFix can you do this on an 04-08 also or just new models?? I don’t think I can do it on mine nobody makes manual lock out hubs for them??
I had to replace my cv axle the iwe took out the splines on the cv
I'm having this very issue on my 2015 F-150. After seeing your video I replaced the IWE check valve and it didn't solve the problem. Do you have any suggestions on what to try next?
It might be the boot on the IWE itself. You need to do a vacuum test. There are videos on UA-cam
I noticed that if I engaged then dis engaged the 4x4 high, it would stop. I’m now looking for the part but have unplugged the power to it for now and it runs normal. Just can’t use 4x4 unless I plug it back in
This is the part I used for mine, which is a 2015 3.5 EB XLT
www.oemfordpartsfast.com/oem-parts/ford-vacuum-hose-fl3z3a788b
Same part I just installed today on my 2017 F150 XL.
Cured the problem immed.
Just ordered a spare . . . as a backup.
@@jamesm.8392 That's great news!
what did you unplug? id do this temporary until i can get it fixed. don't need 4x4 in the summer time lol
Edit: I actually do have full 4x4 function.
Do you happen to have a link for this specific “upgraded” part number where I can order it? All I can find is a direct replacement for the original.
Hi Zeb. I bought at the dealership and paid 20 bucks for it. I also had challenges finding it online.
DCF GARAGE so I could contact the parts department at my local dealership and check to see if they have the part number you provided?
Zeb Ozbirn Given that you have a 2015-2017 3.5 ecoboost, yes. Or you can just ask them for the IWE check valve and give them your vin. They should know exactly which parr it is
DCF GARAGE I’ve got the 5.0, thanks. Gonna contact dealership. Thanks!
@@dcfgarage Yes, you can also get the check valve by itself from Oreilly's or anywhere, I think YG360. Cost me $8.
When taking the vack lines off twist the rubber line back and forth u will hear and feel it brake lose then pull the line off if u don't do that u will most likely brake the end off in your rubber hose!!
Thanks for the video! Seems have to have fixed my issue too. Question, is it normal for the valve/solenoid components to release a small bit of pressure/air when the vehicle is turned off? I noticed that approximately 10-15 seconds after I shut the vehicle down, I can hear a small air pressure release from the area where the value/solenoid is located. Thanks again.
I'm gad it helped, Joe! It is normal for the truck to release vacuum after its turned off. On the other hand, when you turn on the ignition, ,without necessarily turning on the engine, it will turn on the vacuum pump, and disengage the IWE. You can do an experiment and lift the front wheels and with the truck off for a while, spin the front tires by hand. you will feel it heavy because the IWEs will be engaged. Then turn the ignition to ACC mode then spin the wheels. You feel it's a lot lighter because the IWEs would have been disengaged.
yes, when the truck is off, it will release, but should not when running in 2WD. After 4WD is on it will then again release vacuum.
@@dcfgarage Totally incorrect information, there is no vacuum pump, the engine running creates the vacuum, and it is stored in the vacuum after the check valve. The lack of vacuum is what engages the IWEs so if the truck has been sitting and vacuum is low or none the IWEs are engaged by their internal springs. So just turning on the ignition without the engine running there will be no vacuum and the IWEs will be be engaged. Once the engine is running the vacuum will pull through the check valve and fill the vacuum tank with vacuum and disengage the IWEs if the system is in 2WD mode, and in 4wd will engage IWEs since no vacuum is going through the vacuum solenoid to the IWEs to disengage them.
@@sirtigalotwolfe2962 mine releases after being in 2wd.
@@xm15e2commando 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 yes you are correct that information you wrote is totally incorrect. What a clown 🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡
Is this the same part for the 09-14?
I'm not sure. It might be
Great !! Do you have a link to buy it ? I could not find it in amazon . Thanks
The best is to get it at the dealership. That's where I got mine
Probably late but, Motorcraft YG360 is the check valve part # $11.41 on Amazon.
Was the grinding from both sides or one specific wheel?
My case was both wheels. If it's just one, then it's probably the IWE
I'm stuck in Mexico and my 2017 just started making the grinding noise!! I'm in middle of nowhere. Has anyone cleaned the valve and got it to work again?
You can just remove the valve and block off the lines temporarily. That will leave the iwe engaged and stop the grinding
Thanks
Welcome
Did this cause your truck to vibrate? I get the horrible grinding noise now also a shudder feeling when I get light on the gas around 1500-2000rpm but as soon as I let off or floor the gas it stops. I'm at my patience end after fixing the control arms and all the coils and spark plugs. I love my truck but I don't know what to do anymore
If your truck is vibrating at idle, you have an engine issue. You only get the IWE rattle when you're driving. If I were you I would get a ford tech and pay a diagnostic fee before I changed any more parts.
@@dcfgarage it doesn't vibrate at all at idle it idles great it's only while running in gear greater than 4th at 55mph to 75mph. No diagnostic codes have ever came up and other than that runs fine. It's not the head gaskets or block either. I believe it's either a small vacuum line leaking, the hub assembly, the filter in the trans needs to be switched or something else in the differential. The Ford techs are the last place I would ever go - you must not have experience with a Ford service department.
@@nathanluther39 not s dealer, but an independent Ford shop. You need to narrow down your vibration. It cloud be a lot of things, including the tires and the driveshaft. I have had vibration in one of my trucks in the past that ended up being a tire. The only way I found out was through a road force balance. But you need to rule out a few things first. I don't think a grinding IWE or an engine vacuum leak would cause any vibration at cruising speeds.
@@dcfgarage oh ok. I thought you meant a dealership. I just have a hard time trusting shops that all I have is a Yelp review on ya know
Hello, did you find the fix for your problem? My truck have the same issue …
Good shit man,
But since I published this video, Ford decided that they would kill the IWEs. So there is a TSB out for Ford techs to remove the vacuum hose and block off the solenoid so the IWE stays engaged all the time. That should take an mpg or two out of consumption
great thx
Does this work for only 4x4 trucks ?
Correct
👁️ like the video it was very helpful thank you
Thank you
Man I have the same issue just start this week I only have 30k on my truck I’m sure still on the warranty? Hmmm 🧐
If it’s under warranty, take it to the dealer!
Hello mate im from uk how can I found this IWE valve? thanks
I assume any ford dealer will have it. Plus u can probably buy it on ebay
@@dcfgarage thanks mate 🌺
Does the vehicle have to be 4 x 4 for this problem to occur?
yes. This is a vaccum check valve for engaging the front wheels. So if you have a rattle, it's something else... possibly a heat shield... those tend to rattle on F150s
@@dcfgarage i checked the heat shield already it looks good. Some mechanic said it might be bad gasoline that i put from a gas station
@@jaystocks460 if it’s just bad gas, the engine will misfire and you’ll get a check engine light. It would go away if you fill it up with good gas
So what was that part number
It seems that ford has updated the part number since I made the video. The best is to get it at the dealer with your vin
Did it affect your mpg(gas mileage)
It did not and should not. Unless your IWE has failed and is engaged all the time. In that case, the MPG should go up by 1mpg. However, I've heard that is exactly what ford is doing as a fix to this issue on these older models.
Mine has been doing it for two weeks and I’m just now finding out about the check valve do you thank I have went too long and caused damage? I’ve drove my truck maybe 6 times at most while it’s grinded and it didn’t grind for long it stopped
Bama Fever probably not. It takes more to cause significant damage
Update I just checked my vacuum line it had suction but idk if it had enough suction I jacked my truck up took my wheel off cranked my truck in 2wd turned the hub and my axle was still turning....
Bama Fever when the engine is off, there is no vacuum, so the iwe engages. Turn the truck on with the front wheels lifted, and turn spin the front wheels by hand. If you feel the axle turn with the wheel, you probably have a vacuum leak. However, if the leak is small, then it will engage intermittently when u drive
Would replacing the vacuum check valve most likely be my fix?
Daniel CarFix or is it probably in the lines running from the check valve to the iwe?
I can not find this Tee hose for nothing.. I have a 2010 Platinum. Please leave me a link.
I also tried to find online on my mobile and I couldn’t. I’d go to the dealer to get or order one. It seems that 2009-2014 are all the same.
@@dcfgarage Thanks for getting back. Yes I went to the dealer and got it. Thanks for the great video!
DeMario Brown let me know later if it works for you
@@dcfgarage It did work.. Thank you much!
DeMario Brown that’s great news!!!
2016 f150 IEW hud $100 just did one in my truck ,
Wheeel baering starting ,it will happen in about 4 months ,
Did u hear grinding in 2wd or just in 4wd
Only in 2wd. When you engage 4wd, it disappears because the noise comes from the IWE grinding with the hub because there isn't enough vacuum to hold it in the right place.
Mine is the opposite. I’ve never heard the noise till I put it in 4a today and 4wd didn’t work. It’s the first time I’ve used it since buying the truck.
@@TheSickCamaro In your case, it's probably worth having a good ford tech test all vacuum lines and each IWE.
@@TheSickCamaro It could also be the transfer case, by your description.
I replaced mine since it has never been replaced (no grinding) now with the new part its grinding?!
Maybe you didn't attach the vacuum hose well enough. Or maybe on the process, you introduced a leak. But I saw a video from "ford boss me" the other day where he talked about a TSB from ford directing techs to remove the vacuum hose that operates the iwes, so they remain engaged all the time. I guess ford has decided that the iwe design was a bad idea
@@dcfgarage lol-user error on the install. The actual vacuum that-has the blue on it was turned around -reversed. Something so simple but after looking at other videos i caught that the blue part goes a certain way (down)
Did this fix for anyone else??
It is remarkable how cheap the automotive industry has became. They are more interested in offering heated steering wheels than vehicle reliability.
A service part?! I’ve seen drinking straws at restaurants with more integrity than the hoses ford uses to operate their drivetrain.
Thanks for the helpful video. At least it should be a cheap fix.
Yw!
Yea how much more would it realistically cost to use copper hoses?? Oh wait no money on parts or labour at the dealerships that’s why
Can you post the part number please
The easiest is to get it from the dealer with your vin #.
Replace the check valve tube and solenoid. Still didn’t fix the issue. I have a 2016 F150.
Hey Matt. I'm afraid that in your case, it could be a leak in the IWE hub on one of the lines. Also consider re-tightening all the heat shields around the exhaust. The noise they make when loose can be mistaken by the IWE engaging.
Did you fix your truck?
i also replaced check valve and solenoid and it didn’t fix the problem!
@@salkuwaiti66 Replacing just the check valve worked for my truck. You can try testing your IWE for leak. Check out this video. ua-cam.com/video/gwMXfQIjx5Y/v-deo.html. Also keep in mind that the F150 has several heat shields that can vibrate and might be causing the noise. You can try tightening all your heat shields.
Saif Alkuwaiti did you guys have hub leaks?
BillsFan Wyoming was it an iwe hub leak?
Took my 2014 in fo a horrible bed shake. Yes the 12th gen has a natural bed shake, but mine is horrible AF. The said its the check valve. Coverd under my extended warranty.. 100$ I'm now pissed off that I could have spent way less.. and my bed still shakes like an earthquake 😐
Brandon Laird sorry for that. I’ve been in a similar situation and got fooled at the stealership too
I gotta great deal on a raptor because it had this problem.
That's great! Just to let you know that Ford actually released a TSB that instructs techs to remove one of the vacuum lines and block off the solenoid so the IWE stays engaged all the time now. MPG should go down a bit, but you won't get the grinding
Need a link on part I tried part # didn’t work
What year is your truck?
2010
@@jacquesmcconnell7472 That's a different valve, for what I searched. It's best that you get it at the dealer. The price won't be much different than online.
www.oemfordpartsfast.com/oem-parts/ford-vacuum-hose-fl3z3a788b
Daniel CarFix
Is this the updated part number you posted? I can’t seem to find the right one. I have a 2016 f150 3.5
Has this still been the fix. I see its been almost 6 months since you installed. I am having the same issue.
It did resolve the noise for my truck
@@dcfgarage
🤞 Just bought one at the dealer. Hopefully it works for me. Thanks!
@@andyrackley2366 If it doesn't resolve, check the heat shields for the exhaust manifold.
@@dcfgarage I put a new check valve and solenoid on and it didn't fix it. Luckily I do dealer trade driving for my local Ford dealer and got my truck in the shop yesterday afternoon. Ended up being both actuators. They replaced both IWE's, all new tubing, new check valve and solenoid. Covered under the 5yr/60000 powertrain warranty. Got it back this afternoon, so far so good.
@@andyrackley2366 You're case was far worse. I'm happy you got both actuators replaced under warranty. Thank for sharing the result!
My 2019 Raptor had this issue after two years. Ford really needs to come up with a better solution. This is a decades old problem.
They did. The IWE is always connected now
Wish I would have saw this first. Just got charged $245 for tis $20 fix.
I changed it on my 2010 and it still rattles
Then you need to do a vacuum test on the IWEs. You probably have a leak on them or a vacuum line. There are some videos on UA-cam on how to do a vacuum test on a ford IWE.
Did you do this exact part? My truck doesn’t have this piece at all
Hope to fuck this is my issue. Thanks so much
Is this an ecoboost?
Yes
Hard to believe that the actuators are still good
15
I found this one online. Of you can get it at a ford dealer. The price isn't that much different.
www.oemfordpartsfast.com/oem-parts/ford-vacuum-hose-fl3z3a788b?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9ZHJpdmUtYXhsZXMmbD05Jm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1mb3JkJm89Zi0xNTAmeT0yMDE1JnQ9eGx0JmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
Thanks
You can always delete IWE and install the IWE eliminator. 10 minutes per side.. look it up... you’ll thank me later
That’s a great option too. I’ve seen it. The only downside is that it will lower the mpgs. Fuel economy was the reason ford created the IWE
You didn't say how to check it.
Check what? is your IWE grinding?
@@dcfgarage The one way valve.
@@brentbradley6711 You can't test the valve. I replaced mine because ford released an updated version and there were no leaks in my system. If you test your system and find out that the IWEs and hoses are not leaking, it's probably the check valve.
This video explains how the system works. I hope it helps - ua-cam.com/video/kJDaeANoxPU/v-deo.html
@@dcfgarage I know how it works but what about the valve ? I'm sure there is a test for it.
@@brentbradley6711 I don't know of any. Because it's a check valve, you could just remove it and use your mouth to test it.
is there one for the passenger side?
I think there are two or three check valves in total for the 4wd vacuum lines, plus one IWE on each wheel