Nice clearly presented video Shauna and Kieran, thanks. Always interesting to see how other people who know their way around a fingerboard structure their sessions.
Im really getting into the fingerboarding a lot lately and I have to admit, i get your Idea of getting into 90°c and start lowering when youre fatiguing, but so far none of the other climbers like shauna or for example the lattice team said something like this, would be nice to hear a little bit more of you here (: btw, just read your book 9 out of 10 climbers and it was a real pleasure! Perfect quarantinereading
@@MrApetape It's not really important. I wouldn't pay too much attention to this because its a minor issue IMO. It's the fingers that are working hard in this exercise. If you like bent arm, go for it. If you like straight, go for it.
Great content, thanks! Those one arm hangs with dumbbell half crimp on straight arm was proper world class show off and I loved it 😀 . I have a goal now🙂
Watched quite a few training videos and you're the only one that recommended using a scale to measure the weight you're taking off the hangboard, ingenious!
Another great video, literally finished it and then started warming up on my 1000. My extra tip would be having a cup of tea/coffee to enjoy on your rests, holding it also keeps my fingers warm! Looking forward to the next video!
Really well-articulated and informative video. Nice to see what your max hang sessions look like. Would be great to see drills you find most useful on the campus board for power endurance training sessions, and also some stuff on pinch training. Cheers guys!
@@ShaunaCoxseyClimber I saw that, great video once again! It would still be good to see what you do on the campus board and for pinch training (whether that's with blocks or what not..) for when we return to gyms. I'm fortunate to work for a bouldering gym but just some ideas for future videos. Keep it up Shauna, looking forward to seeing you back on the wall and in your element.
Very good video, all you need to know, thanks a lot for that! It would be very nice, if you could make a video for antagonist muscle training for climbers...
I know I shouldn’t say that, but I am really enjoying this time in self isolation... I know there’s is a danger out there and I am in the highest group as for my bonne marrow transplant.... but! Because all of this craziness..... amazing people like you Shauna..... coming out with an amazing guiding videos, what wouldn’t happen normally and I can actually use this time, while home, to shift my self up and looking forward to my returning to Climbing works after we are back to normal.... so Thank you sooo much again.... :) :) :)
@@ShaunaCoxseyClimber Hi Shauna, is it best to change from hand in between hangs or stay with the same and how many rest in between the one hand hangs? Many thanks!
Nice vid! Only found it today and not back in april. One question I have after seeing this vid is: what is your opinion on combining max strength and easy aerobic training on the hangboard in one session?
nice video, very helpful. I do have a question, when I hang half crimp my pinky end up being strait. what is the best, having 3 fingers at 90 degree and strait pinky or force 3 fingers at 80 to get the pinky working?
My pinky is straight in half crimp too! I find this the most useful grip type to train for me. However, I do a little bit of training in full crimp too (with pinky bent at 90), just MUCH lower intensity!
how do you decide what grip type and hold size you are going to train for that session? and how often do you change each variable for your training sessions?
I mainly train half crimp as I find this is the most useful grip type for me to train. I change the hold size OR the weight when I feel like I have reached a plateau and need to change the stimulus.
Great video!! Thank you for making this. Could you please elaborate more on you max hang session? So 5 reps at a given grip, 10-12 second hang, with 2-5 minute rest, but what grips do you use and how many times/week for how many weeks do you do this? And do you have complimentary exercises with it such as weighted pullups ect. - what is everything you do on a max hang day? Thanks for the details! :)
I do this session one a week at the moment but that changes depending on what phase I am in. All of these questions will have different answers depending on what time of year it is and how much training I am doing. I always do mobility to warm up though. I always rest for at least a little while after too.
Treating this as it’s own session, rather than tagging on other exercises, is a good shout. Between reps, leg work that doesn’t need weights I’d good, Such as Nordic curls etc
what do you think about this format 4 sets of 4 reps 10 sec hang 30 seconds rest with 2 minutes rest between sets (this is what some climbers recommend too)
When adding more reps your changing the training from a pure strength session to a form of endurance. If you're aiming to increase max strength in your fingers and your able to do more than one rep at a certain weight then its not hard enough. The idea is to train your fingers close to their max then repeat after a sufficient recovery period.
Hi Shauna! thanks for these videos, they are very clear and with simple instructions. I'm a non-native english speaker, sorry for my english...I've a little question. Do you think is it ok doing only one arm hang instead two arms for training max strength?
Hi Shauna! How many types of different holds would you recommend train ter one session? I have a beastmaker 2000, and i am training like said on their site, 7sec on, 3 sec off, 6 reps, than 3 min rest, and do the same on another type of hold. I am using 4 holds, the big hole for 4 fingers, the easiest sloper or the top, and doing as you said in this video, trying like 60% of my bodyweight on the middle slopper and 4 finger small edge, than repeat all the circle for 2 more times. So that is 12 minutes on fingerboard, that's much more than you told in this video :(
The program you are following looks like repeaters , in this vidoe Shauna is describing max Hangs Main difference is repeaters works more strength endurance where as max Hangs trains pure strength ! When trainjtng pure strength the intensity is more but less time is spent hanging! Don't worry! What you are doing is great and consistentsy is key so stick with it ! 💪
@@harrisonsadventures8068 Thank you! Started to worry that beastmakes 2000 is too hard for me, and i should bought b1000 first, but hope i'll get used to it.
Nice clearly presented video Shauna and Kieran, thanks. Always interesting to see how other people who know their way around a fingerboard structure their sessions.
Im really getting into the fingerboarding a lot lately and I have to admit, i get your Idea of getting into 90°c and start lowering when youre fatiguing, but so far none of the other climbers like shauna or for example the lattice team said something like this, would be nice to hear a little bit more of you here (:
btw, just read your book 9 out of 10 climbers and it was a real pleasure! Perfect quarantinereading
@@MrApetape It's not really important. I wouldn't pay too much attention to this because its a minor issue IMO. It's the fingers that are working hard in this exercise. If you like bent arm, go for it. If you like straight, go for it.
@@climbermacleod Thanks for the response! Really true not making the whole process complicater then it needs to be
Thanks Dave!
Possibly the most clear and succinct max hang fingerboard video I've seen!
Thanks!
Great content, thanks! Those one arm hangs with dumbbell half crimp on straight arm was proper world class show off and I loved it 😀 . I have a goal now🙂
Watched quite a few training videos and you're the only one that recommended using a scale to measure the weight you're taking off the hangboard, ingenious!
Love these training videos! Great content, always nice to know how a legend trains!!!
Another great video, literally finished it and then started warming up on my 1000. My extra tip would be having a cup of tea/coffee to enjoy on your rests, holding it also keeps my fingers warm! Looking forward to the next video!
good idea
SUCH a good idea!
Quickly becoming my favourite climbing channel!
:)
Tip #7, definitely the most important one xD
You’re a good coach! Thanks for this workout!
Really well-articulated and informative video. Nice to see what your max hang sessions look like. Would be great to see drills you find most useful on the campus board for power endurance training sessions, and also some stuff on pinch training. Cheers guys!
Thanks! I am doing all of my fitness training on my fingerboard. My latest video goes through those. Hope they are useful!
@@ShaunaCoxseyClimber I saw that, great video once again! It would still be good to see what you do on the campus board and for pinch training (whether that's with blocks or what not..) for when we return to gyms. I'm fortunate to work for a bouldering gym but just some ideas for future videos. Keep it up Shauna, looking forward to seeing you back on the wall and in your element.
Great vid, I like the emphasis on having good form.
Very good video, all you need to know, thanks a lot for that! It would be very nice, if you could make a video for antagonist muscle training for climbers...
Good idea, I will get thinking!
I know I shouldn’t say that, but I am really enjoying this time in self isolation... I know there’s is a danger out there and I am in the highest group as for my bonne marrow transplant.... but! Because all of this craziness..... amazing people like you Shauna..... coming out with an amazing guiding videos, what wouldn’t happen normally
and I can actually use this time, while home, to shift my self up and looking forward to my returning to Climbing works after we are back to normal.... so Thank you sooo much again.... :) :) :)
Thank you for the message! Great to hear that you are staying positive and motivated! Stay safe!
@@ShaunaCoxseyClimber Hi Shauna, is it best to change from hand in between hangs or stay with the same and how many rest in between the one hand hangs?
Many thanks!
Just what I was after. Thanks.
Amazing video!!
Thanks guys... cool session advice. How do you hang ‘your’ fingerboards. Thanks 🤙
This is excellent
For some reason i now fancy a Red Bull :-) Very helpful video
I was waiting for this :)
Curious if there's a reason not to mix 2 arm and 1 arm mac hangs?
take a shot every time you hear "really". RIP
just kidding, great instructions, much love to you guys!
Very useful, thanks!!! :)
Hi Shauna, is it best to change from hand in between hangs or stay with the same and how many rest in between the one hand hangs?
Many thanks!
Love it! thanks for sharing this :)
Great!!!
Nice vid! Only found it today and not back in april. One question I have after seeing this vid is: what is your opinion on combining max strength and easy aerobic training on the hangboard in one session?
How do you switch between your fingerboards so easily? How are your boards attached to their mounts/mounted to the wall?
Haha! MAGIC!
They are attached with a locking mechanism that Ned made.
Hi, loving the videos. Would it be possible to see a system board session at some point?
We don't tend to post much of our home boards but once the climbing gyms are open I can do a session on one there for sure!
That sounds great thanks 😊
nice video, very helpful. I do have a question, when I hang half crimp my pinky end up being strait. what is the best, having 3 fingers at 90 degree and strait pinky or force 3 fingers at 80 to get the pinky working?
My pinky is straight in half crimp too! I find this the most useful grip type to train for me. However, I do a little bit of training in full crimp too (with pinky bent at 90), just MUCH lower intensity!
how do you decide what grip type and hold size you are going to train for that session? and how often do you change each variable for your training sessions?
I mainly train half crimp as I find this is the most useful grip type for me to train. I change the hold size OR the weight when I feel like I have reached a plateau and need to change the stimulus.
Thank you :)
Great video!! Thank you for making this. Could you please elaborate more on you max hang session? So 5 reps at a given grip, 10-12 second hang, with 2-5 minute rest, but what grips do you use and how many times/week for how many weeks do you do this? And do you have complimentary exercises with it such as weighted pullups ect. - what is everything you do on a max hang day? Thanks for the details! :)
I do this session one a week at the moment but that changes depending on what phase I am in. All of these questions will have different answers depending on what time of year it is and how much training I am doing. I always do mobility to warm up though. I always rest for at least a little while after too.
Treating this as it’s own session, rather than tagging on other exercises, is a good shout. Between reps, leg work that doesn’t need weights I’d good, Such as Nordic curls etc
I wonder if my aunt will hang board with me 🤔
Great video though thanks
what do you think about this format 4 sets of 4 reps 10 sec hang 30 seconds rest with 2 minutes rest between sets (this is what some climbers recommend too)
When adding more reps your changing the training from a pure strength session to a form of endurance. If you're aiming to increase max strength in your fingers and your able to do more than one rep at a certain weight then its not hard enough. The idea is to train your fingers close to their max then repeat after a sufficient recovery period.
Hi Shauna! thanks for these videos, they are very clear and with simple instructions. I'm a non-native english speaker, sorry for my english...I've a little question. Do you think is it ok doing only one arm hang instead two arms for training max strength?
It really depends on the individual , what you are training for and what other training you are doing... I like to do both.
Hi Shauna!
How many types of different holds would you recommend train ter one session?
I have a beastmaker 2000, and i am training like said on their site, 7sec on, 3 sec off, 6 reps, than 3 min rest, and do the same on another type of hold. I am using 4 holds, the big hole for 4 fingers, the easiest sloper or the top, and doing as you said in this video, trying like 60% of my bodyweight on the middle slopper and 4 finger small edge, than repeat all the circle for 2 more times. So that is 12 minutes on fingerboard, that's much more than you told in this video :(
The program you are following looks like repeaters , in this vidoe Shauna is describing max Hangs
Main difference is repeaters works more strength endurance where as max Hangs trains pure strength ! When trainjtng pure strength the intensity is more but less time is spent hanging!
Don't worry! What you are doing is great and consistentsy is key so stick with it ! 💪
@@harrisonsadventures8068 Thank you! Started to worry that beastmakes 2000 is too hard for me, and i should bought b1000 first, but hope i'll get used to it.
There are so many different ways to train on the fingerboard! This is just my favourite exercise :)
can you dude a endurance vid too
up now! :)
haha "Ned is a monster"
Hi Shauna, would love to see a resistant session of yours :) keep it up, peace.
Up now! :)
Tip number 7... counts 6 with her fingers😄
whoops!
This is really helpful. Is there any reason to opt for the BM2000 bottom row holds over the BM1000 top row holds? I thought they were the same size.
The 1000 top hold is around 12mm and the 2000 bottom edge is closer to 15mm