Improve Your Crimps with Shauna Coxsey
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- Опубліковано 18 чер 2024
- In this weeks video, @ShaunaCoxseyClimber and Hannah Morris talk all things finger strength and crimp technique on at the newly opened @theclimbinghangaruk in Reading
The ability to use small crimp holds is part and parcel of good overall climbing technique. Crimping on small edges is something a lot of climbers love, and a lot hate. Small incut edges and flakes require a lot of finger strength, technique and good body positioning and can be tricky to master. In this video, Hannah and Shauna cover everything you need to know to crimp your way up the wall, from the basics of grip types for crimping and a masterclass in body positioning to work through crimpy problems with maximum effectiveness and efficiency.
Get your first climb half-price with code HANNAH50. Go to bit.ly/3Tv9sfc to find your nearest venue.
0:00 Introduction to Shauna Coxsey
01:14 Overview of Climbing Grip Types
03:16 Finger Strength Vs Contact Strength
03:32 First Crimpy Project
09:32 Shauna Coxsey's Superpower is Crimping
13:43 Shauna Demonstrating Crimp Technique
15:44 Shauna Vs Most Crimpy boulder in the gym
18:22 Body Positioning for Awkward Crimps
22:19 Training Finger Strength
25:56 Finger boarding for rehab and warm up
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Awesome content. Big fan of Shauna through her comp career. Wasn’t sure if she was gonna try and come back for the next Olympic cycle but guess it’s on to the next phase for her. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Adam! Super excited to see what Shauna does next after retiring from comp climbing! 🧗
Shauna has a big and supportive fan base ready to follow wherever she goes!
As far as I understood from the olympic movie, Shauna's back problems makes it quite dangerous for her to do competition climbing
Hannah, you are hitting it out of the park with this channel! The content is crazy good! I'm so excited for you!
Thanks so much! I'm really looking forward to seeing what we can do with the channel this year. :D
Wow Shauna is crazy strong. Hannah is a good climber, which makes it wild to see how effortless Shauna is on these. Great video!
Thanks for watching! It was super cool to watch Shauna crush - she's so strong and clearly so in control on the wall.
one other tip NOT crimp related Hannah, is for people with tighter hips, when you were trying to get your left foot up on the red slab @7:13, a useful tweak is to turn your right knee TOWARD the slab (to the left) as you can get more reach. When your hip is super open like yours was (knee out to the right) its harder to get your left foot higher. I use this ALOT becuase my hips are tight and im shorter
Would love to see more videos with Shauna on this channel, she has so much wisdom I could honestly listen to you two talk about climbing all day
To add something to the start explanation:
The different ways to hold your a crimp with one or two fingers open hand dragged and the rest in a halfcrimp (chisle?) as you called it. It is often a result of your finger anatomy. Which fingers are long and short. Our hands are very different from each other. Some have short index fingers and long ring fingers or vise versa.
Another thing about finger strength vs contact strength. For many this might be obvious but I'll still say it. Contact strength is how fast you can reqruite your finger strength upon contact with the hold.
I actually started warming up more consistentl as a parent. Do some light exercises and hangboarding at home. Change the diapers. More hangboarding, pull ups, push ups,... Do some other stuff. Cycle to the gym and be ready to go for a short but intense session 👍💪
Great video! Keep crushing it!
Impressive to see how elegant and efficient is Shauna. She doesn't waste a bit of energy, all the movements are smooth and precise.
an abosluteee pleassssure - loved learning from the best 😊
😀
Britain's golden goddess 🤩
You both have such calm personalities, this was an excellent way to enjoy the evening.
Bounce into the half crimp ✌️ let's if we can can do that with getting stuck in the ceiling fan.
Glad you enjoyed it! It was really cool to learn from the best so I'm glad you enjoyed the session too. :).
@@hannahmorrisbouldering yes it was a good session, playfully giving some good pointers. I am of course a wee bit jealous but more then that I thought you two meshed really well. You are always very ... welcoming I guess is the word I'm looking for, in the way you and your guests express yourselves and set up the video. Tonight was no different 👌
Shauna is the sweetest person ever. I remember during the pandemic she was sending customized messages to kids to encourage them and cheer them up.
Been a huge fan of Shauna since seeing her compete. Super awesome video. You to genuinely seem to enjoy each other's company which shows through the camera and makes the video so awesome to watch. She's also got so many good little tidbits of knowledge which is amazing! Great video!
Thank you. Really appreciate that. It was a really fun session and I definitely learned a lot ✨
I
Glad it will helpful be helpful and that you enjoyed!
Haven't watched a climbing video in a while. Really enjoyed the chilled out unedited conversations in this one. Shauna has some really nice anecdotes/ advice
Chisel is my go to! I think it’s mainly an anatomy thing but then gets reinforced thru practice. Thanks for the great vid!
What a graceful and powerful climber! A really great teacher as well. Thank you for the vid!
You’re welcome. Agreed - I learned a lot ☺️
Yesss, crimps are the best, I'm gonna love this one
Loved this video! Always excited for new content from you :D
Really pleased you liked it 😍
Awesome video, Hannah!
So hyped every time you upload and this time with one of my fav climbers. Shauna seems so cool, skilled and down to earth it's lovely to see you climb together !
Yay! Thank you! I really appreciate it :)
Awesome video and such a chilled vibe throughout. Loved it!!
Thank you! Really glad you enjoyed watching 😀
Thats so interesting what Shauna mentions about full crimping indoor vs. outdoor! I have the exact same experience!! Im also definitely a half crimper 100%, and find the full crimp quite uncomfortable, except sometimes outdoors it can feel more natural. So weird she has that too... I wonder why that is
What a great combination!! Thank you so much Hannah! One of the BEST videos you have ever done I would say!! 😊😊 can’t wait for the next video!
Thanks so much! Really glad you liked it, it was great fun to film with Shauna!
Love this episode and adore Shauna! This was so exciting. I would have loved to see the holds on the climbs a little closer up. Thank you so much for your content!!🥰
You’re welcome. Cheers for the feedback too, some closer up shots to show the holds better would have been ace. Will definitely take the idea forward into other videos! ☺️
It really helps me when you show on the screen what V you all are climbing...
It is very cool to hear a professional climber speak about the problem all parent-climbers are facing: warm up when your session is limited to 1.5, maybe 2 hours because there is a child or the partner already waiting for you coming back from the gym/or whereever actually. Two hip injuries caused by badly/not bothering warming up were the consequence for me. Rather should have kept it slow and easy.. a lot of times less is more.
I actually love this content. Cant wait for more
Thank you - lots more exciting videos in the works :)
There have been so many well known and interesting people on your channel lately. 👍
Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Another amazing video Hannah, I’m a total crimp fan and with the awesome Shauna. Great tips, explanation and examples. Thank you.
You're so welcome! Glad it was helpful :)
Cracking video as always. Can we take a second to appreciate the wonderful fucus pulling in the conversation sections too please. Just perfect.
Much appreciated 🌞🥳
Learned a lot ! I'm hyped to try out more crimpy boulders !
Hope you have a fab crimpy session when you next go climbing 🤩
I just sent an old project that I had written off thanks to this video! Love all of your content Hannah!
That’s so nice to hear. Congrats on your project! ☺️
Shauna's a really great teacher :)
This video was just perfection 😍 so helpful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
This was probably one of my favorite videos of yours. Shauna did a great job of thoroughly explaining crimps (I had no idea there were three different types). And to me, it felt like she did a great job of pointing out specific instances during your climb where you should use different kinds of crimps, and most importantly, why. Very cool video! Thanks!
Really glad you enjoyed it ☺️
omg SHAUNA! I would have been fangirling so hard. 🤩
Haha, it was a very cool experience to get to climb with Shauna. I had a great time ☺️
Awesome instructional, and you are a very powerful climber! This video really shows some of your strengths.
I appreciate that! Thanks :)
I’m so glad to know I’m not the only one who struggles with full crimping.
Definitely not! ☺️
My favourite style! Great vid!
Great to hear! Thanks 😊
Shauna! Yay, love watching her climb.
It was so fun to watch in person! 😊
Wow its neat having some insight into the mind of a master of the art. Shauna really demonstrates mastery.
100%!
Big crimp fan, stoked for this one.
Crimps are the best! Hope you enjoy it :)
Love watching Shauna climb she’s so focused and clean on her movements 🔥
She’s great to learn from too! Really good at explaining things 😊🤩
This is an awesome collab, Shauna is one of my favourite climbers
Hope you enjoyed! :)
Great video Hannah some wise words from Shauna , absolute legend 💪👍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video 😆
Brilliant video!
Thanks Rhett!
A someone who's only climbed for about 20h, i really enjoy all these videos with professionals on different climbing styles, holds, footwork, etc.
Really great to hear. Hope you’re enjoying climbing so far 😎
I feel less scared for my tendons & more prepared to improve my crimp game now!
Wow ,Shauna .. was watching her world cups videos yesterday
I know this is all about crimping but I love Shauna's foot placements.
im a beginner about 2-3 months in and barely do crimps. but recently finally was able to complete a v2v/v3 one that was giving me trouble and flashed and downclimbed a v1/v2 that i was never able to do. i guess i was just avoiding it too much to where i couldnt develop any strength for these holds but after recently trying them i feel like i have some grasp of it lol.
You’ve started the part of climbing where your strong enough to get a LOT stronger really fast really easily, keep it up
Yaaaaay this combo is the one! (Also crimps are the one!)
Crimps really are elite
@@hannahmorrisbouldering The way Shauna just walked up that yellow
@@megbloom1479 outrageous strength
Hannah you're literally the cutest human alive!!!! :) love your videos too
Love!!!!
✨✨
Hype!
Psychhheeeeeed
what would you call a grip that's like a half crimp but the first joints are bent too so that fingers look like hooks? I often find myself gripping small holds like that as well.
Went to a bouldering gym on Sunday which had 0 crimp routes. Was disappointed.
Oh no that sounds like a nightmare, I’d be super stuck! 🥹
hannah....hannah...hannah.....great content maker. love it
Thank you! 😍😍
SHAUNA❤ She's also a sweet Mom ❤
good video :)
Thank you!
How do you get all these stars
Like Shauna Coxey, she seems genuinely interested in helping people do better.
Nice one but did you send the white since this day ?
I didn't get the white but I managed to do this first red we were trying with the deadpoint beta on my second session! Agreed, Shauna has a great, really encouraging attitude!
Epic content
Thank you! 🔥
Aim for the BOLT hold. Ok. I got it now. My bad. My wife did not appreciate my mistake
Oh I love this bit about Shauna's husband: "He knows so much more than me." Says an Olympic climber...
Fingerboard during pregnancy is very convenient, you have added weight without the need of harness and weights
Would love to see more pro athletes on outdoor setting rather than the comps.
I love crimpy holds, but my pulleys don’t🥲
I FEEEEEL that
Shauna is my favorite non American climber.
Theres 2 types of people: those who dont like crimps and those who climb hard, lol
Not super relevant but I love watching Shauna downclimb😮
Shauna looks so lean; as in her face. Interesting….oh, and the content is good
Your videos are so good! The more you use your mind the better you climb, love this content!
Thank you! Appreciate that. Absolutely true, the mind can be one of our biggest strengths on the wall!
best advice i have gotten ty and have a great day
At 14:40 there is a homosexual flag in the background. What does that have to do with climbing 🧗♀️?
There's always this guy in the comments 😂
I feel less scared for my tendons & more prepared to improve my crimp game now!