The Challenge for Climbers with Building Finger Strength | ft. Yves Gravelle
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
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About The Guest:
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers.
We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.
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Here's how I interpreted it, do one cycle to build muscles in the forearms then another cycle to optimize that new muscle for performance. Don't overtrain or focus on too many things. Quality over quantity.
It's good advice but the word cycle is often used to indicate a period of time on PEDs which is a bit unfortunate haha
@@stretch8390 He meant training cycle of course!
@@stretch8390 man, training cycle is a common concept. Macrocycle and mircocycle too
Need to build strength and technique together. This method will waste a lot of time.
@@mitchgowing2336 This is talking about the strength training done as a supplement to actual climbing, nothing stopping you from continuing to develop your climbing technique through your actual climbing sessions alongside either cycle.
Yes. I believe climbing training should transition from quantity to quality as you grow older into the sport and life in general. Shorter but intense sessions and nice calm rest days.
Love hearing insights from Yves 💪
A question i always have in these discussions is the definition of "training" and "rest", because there is also "activity" in between the two.
Can climbing be considered activity but not "training", for example a v8-10 boulderer going and climbing easy sport 5.9 and below.
That's more "rest" than it is "training", so does Yves consider active rest superior to passive rest what does focusing on "recovery" look like outside of diet and sleep? Should it be specific to the sport or avoid overlap between activity and training altogether, such as hikes > passive rest > easy climbing for recovery. I really try to stay active since i feel like i recover faster than being on the couch but i don't know what is best.
Prioritizing recovery and training stimulus are important, especially if you can minimize accumulating fatigue or stress (shorter sessions etc). But when i look at the climbers around me who are excelling, they have a lot of climbing days in a week (4-5), but are not training every day (usually 1-2).
I think experienced climbers would benefit from a training plan that focus on ONE specific area of improvement (strength, endurance, power, etc.)
at a time, with the other areas trained at a maintenance level.
As far as hypertrophy is concerned, I see it as a "side effect" of getting stronger, hypertrophy itself is not an attribute that climbers want to develop. We're not bodybuilders, although it's kinda cool to look jacked right?
In other words, its mostly a by-product of endurance and strength training and it will come, albeit more slowly than if explicitly targeted, the more you train.
In the context of this video, Yves is talking about forearm hypertrophy.
But your strength is directly proportional to the number of muscle fibers you have at play. Hypertrophy is not a side effect, it's one of the primary causes.
@@geometerfpv2804 At first glance it might be sensible to think so, but there are other factors at play, such as neuromuscular strength, which is why powerlifter are smaller, but way stronger than bodybuilders (typically). Hypertrophy is good up to a certain point, but then you get diminishing return because of the added weight due to muscle mass. That's why I don't think climbers should target hypertrophy gains, because it'll come by itself with training.
Dude, you are not gaining 10kg by doing some hypertrophy work for your forearms. And just because bodybuilders are bigger than powerlifters doesn't mean that PL not also have a ton of muscle mass.
I totally agree. A climber should always ask what is holding them back most at this moment and focus the training on that aspect. Could even be something completely different than getting stronger, like fear of falling, flexibility, lifestyle, you name it.
Quality over quntity
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its quite simple how to continually progress: you train strength until you plateau which i define by no progress in 3 sessions. Then you switch to endurance base exercises like repeaters for 3-5 weeks or until you plateau with that. again 3 sesh you didnt add another rep to your repeater set. You go back to strength and restart the cycle. Ur Welcome.
This is written by someone who has not been climbing very long