Hi, I read your book "Training for climbing" but this video seem to be bit different from what is in the book. For example the hang/rest duration is 10/10 compare to 7/3. Also, in the book, it say do up to 5 sets (did not mention about groupings). But in this video, Cameron mention about doing 2 groups after 10min rest which would be double the volume as in the book - 6 hangs per set x 5 sets vs 6 hangs per set x 5 sets x 2 groups. I am asking this cause I take extra caution with hangboard training so just want to make sure what no. of hangs i.e. the volume of hangboard training I can do safely in one session.
Thanks for this Cameron! The 1 min rest between sets (heard 2-3) and 5 repeaters was new to me. I'll defo give it a go! I've been trying to find endurance routines on a hangboard but it's always about feet on small holds while alternating between diff grips on the board. If you have any drills for training endurance by just hanging, I'd be glad to hear about it? Also do you limit this drill to 2 groups with the 10min rest in between or do you do multiple groups?
It's harder to train pure endurance on a hangboard since time under tension is limited by smaller edges and no feet. This is a solid focus to tap into that energy system.
Good job with the vid Cameron! Question regarding specificity in training. What is the evidence for training pinch to improve outcome (like the Nicros HIT system) and hangboarding protocols for jamming varied sizes? Yaniro and Leavitt did a lot of it but wondering about evidence based plans. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. This stuff definitely works, however limited research has been done in climbing since the idea of training to climb harder is a relatively new idea. Most observations have been anecdotal since we can see correlations between the strongest climbers and the strongest finger strength and other aspects they train. The existing protocols are specifically made with periods of rest relative to the hang time and goal of the training to only engage certain energy systems and to make sure we are utilizing them properly as we train!
You could do this after a session. You wouldn't want to do an extreme bouldering session beforehand because that could put your fingers at risk. But after a moderate session, these repeaters could be supplemented for an alternative focus on fingers.
That would be a solid alternative, but it would be best to use a system such as a pulley to allow the same time under tension. Or you could elect to use a larger hold.
Many things that warm up those specific parts of your body. Finger rolls, larger pad hangs, shoulder engagement exercises, and if you are training with weight added, some body weight hangs on the edge you will train on.
Once you begin to get solid at 7:3, rather than increasing the time hanging, add some weight that is not too heavy, but makes the difficulty where it needs to be. Great to see improvements!
Why those timing protocols in particular? I have wondered about repeaters since I diverged from the beastmaker routines, but other than frequent use because they feel hard I have not found a specific reason 7/3x6 is used.
Generally progression is faster if the strength training is more evenly spaced but not too evenly. You have to find the balance between frequent and hard enough training sessions while still recovering enough. Combining climbing session with strength training after the session or earlier/later in the day is a good way of allowing for more rest days if you feel like it. However, if the total training the day is too great the training at end of the workout becomes increasingly redundant and more even spacing might be more efficient (avoid the so called "junk volume"). You have to just try what works for your in your specific situation.
@@Leo_Pasek_Climbing_Coaching Good call thanks! I've been doing a couple front and side splits routines.. perhaps I'll try and work it into rests. Would you happen to know of any leg stretching that are climbing specific? I guess something like a high step and match foot to hand or drop knee ( ? )
Nice. But it's a hour+ of training twice per week. And squeezing this in before work might be tough for a weekend warrior like me who also runs, lifts, stretches and does the standard 10 minute fingerboard workout. Good training for very dedicated climbers, but it's not for me.
![How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_-YapmymjA/mqdefault.jpg)
He came a long way since his first videos! Well done :)
Really concise! Your intonation and rhythm of speech sound a lot like one dude from a certain podcast. :)
Good to see you just
Hanging around...
Always. Haha!
Hi, I read your book "Training for climbing" but this video seem to be bit different from what is in the book. For example the hang/rest duration is 10/10 compare to 7/3. Also, in the book, it say do up to 5 sets (did not mention about groupings). But in this video, Cameron mention about doing 2 groups after 10min rest which would be double the volume as in the book - 6 hangs per set x 5 sets vs 6 hangs per set x 5 sets x 2 groups.
I am asking this cause I take extra caution with hangboard training so just want to make sure what no. of hangs i.e. the volume of hangboard training I can do safely in one session.
"Well, there you have it", nice content!
Hey, really good video! Well explained and a good routine I think. :-)
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful, my Strength phase began by tomorrow ... dead hang may be painful sometimes but always fun :)
Thanks for this Cameron! The 1 min rest between sets (heard 2-3) and 5 repeaters was new to me. I'll defo give it a go! I've been trying to find endurance routines on a hangboard but it's always about feet on small holds while alternating between diff grips on the board. If you have any drills for training endurance by just hanging, I'd be glad to hear about it? Also do you limit this drill to 2 groups with the 10min rest in between or do you do multiple groups?
It's harder to train pure endurance on a hangboard since time under tension is limited by smaller edges and no feet. This is a solid focus to tap into that energy system.
Great work out and video
Thanks a lot! It will help for sure!
3:28 "always do a proper warm up..." proceeds to do a mono hang rightaway
The power of editing!
Good job with the vid Cameron! Question regarding specificity in training. What is the evidence for training pinch to improve outcome (like the Nicros HIT system) and hangboarding protocols for jamming varied sizes? Yaniro and Leavitt did a lot of it but wondering about evidence based plans. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. This stuff definitely works, however limited research has been done in climbing since the idea of training to climb harder is a relatively new idea. Most observations have been anecdotal since we can see correlations between the strongest climbers and the strongest finger strength and other aspects they train. The existing protocols are specifically made with periods of rest relative to the hang time and goal of the training to only engage certain energy systems and to make sure we are utilizing them properly as we train!
Wondering how shpuld put this together with climbing sessions. Before or After a climbing session sport/bpuldering?
You could do this after a session. You wouldn't want to do an extreme bouldering session beforehand because that could put your fingers at risk. But after a moderate session, these repeaters could be supplemented for an alternative focus on fingers.
Awesome info!
Thanks for watching!
Don't have the option of couterweight, can I work my way up, like from 2 or 3 groups to 5 groups?
That would be a solid alternative, but it would be best to use a system such as a pulley to allow the same time under tension. Or you could elect to use a larger hold.
Some trainers recommend not shrugging your shoulders as much as you do. What is your perspective on this?
It is important to have your shoulders engaged, though only a little, when hanging to be in a proper position.
How are you? one question pls. If I do this repeaters, may I climb routes in the gym the same day?
Yes, but do in this order--warm-up, climb, then do a few sets of repeaters. happy training!
What warm ups would be good for those finger boarding at home?
Many things that warm up those specific parts of your body. Finger rolls, larger pad hangs, shoulder engagement exercises, and if you are training with weight added, some body weight hangs on the edge you will train on.
can i progress from 7:3 to 10:3 or 12:3 with always 1 min rest between each rep ?? any feedback for this progression ?
Once you begin to get solid at 7:3, rather than increasing the time hanging, add some weight that is not too heavy, but makes the difficulty where it needs to be. Great to see improvements!
Why those timing protocols in particular? I have wondered about repeaters since I diverged from the beastmaker routines, but other than frequent use because they feel hard I have not found a specific reason 7/3x6 is used.
Excuse me, what is the name of the device you use?
The hangboard is the Ultmate Board and we are using our iphones as a timer.
Nice vid! Keep uploading :)
sorry i don't understand english very much, are you resistance training? true?
Resistenza alla forza! È il protocollo di Eva Lopez
@@cattivick89 okay grazie del video
Would you say two full consecutive rest days? Or just two anywhere in the week?
Generally progression is faster if the strength training is more evenly spaced but not too evenly. You have to find the balance between frequent and hard enough training sessions while still recovering enough. Combining climbing session with strength training after the session or earlier/later in the day is a good way of allowing for more rest days if you feel like it. However, if the total training the day is too great the training at end of the workout becomes increasingly redundant and more even spacing might be more efficient (avoid the so called "junk volume"). You have to just try what works for your in your specific situation.
What do you recommend doing between sets?
stretch your lower body may be a good idea
@@Leo_Pasek_Climbing_Coaching Good call thanks! I've been doing a couple front and side splits routines.. perhaps I'll try and work it into rests. Would you happen to know of any leg stretching that are climbing specific? I guess something like a high step and match foot to hand or drop knee ( ? )
Aaron Surty go check mani the monkey stretching routine 💪🏼
In addition to some stretching, we do foam rolling and also forearm rolling with an Arm-Aid.
@@training4climbing good idea with the foam rolling! Thanks for your response.
A frackin' hate rest days
haha!
This is for anerobic endurance. For strength you need to rest for 3-4 min between hangs.
Yes, this is a "Strength-Endurance" protocol, not a "max strength" protocol.
@@training4climbing Thanks. The distinction, what he does for summer, was not very clear (to me).
Nice. But it's a hour+ of training twice per week. And squeezing this in before work might be tough for a weekend warrior like me who also runs, lifts, stretches and does the standard 10 minute fingerboard workout. Good training for very dedicated climbers, but it's not for me.
1 minute rest is not very long lol 😆
Thats the goal! It trains you to operate with little rest but to recover in that time! It is very important you follow this strcitly.
1:1 load to rest period isn't unusual for people that are climbing really hard. you could opt to reduce this to a 1:2 ratio to lower the intensity