Matt, I know it has been a year now since the video, but "Oshpo" does work well on flash rust on many metals. The brand "Klean Strip" concrete and metal prep is much cheaper at under $18 per gallon and phosphoric acid is the active ingredient at 30-40% (Intellectual Properties) but Oshpo contains some wetting agents and other non-cleaning active agents. Wetting agents are not surfactant like soap. Soap like "Dawn" dish soap is a slight alkaline which stop or neutralizes acids activity. Use "0000" steel wool works but a gray or maroon Scotch-Brite work fine depending on desired finish on the metal. I am a repair tech, an ASE Master Tech since 1978, retired, doing my due diligence by researching products by results, cost, ease of use and results for cleaning metal prior to painting or if not seen but protected, spray with an automotive grade of Epoxy 1:1 mix sealer the blocks oxygen from forming or allowing more rust to form. The "Metal Prep" cleans surface rust just like your video, but is cost effective and since this restoration is for myself, I prefer maximum protection over a long time. Few look inside a door, metal inner fender or bedside on a truck, but I do. I bothers me knowing that 90% or rust perforation occurs from the inside out. While new metal is welded in to replace thin rusted metal, if the back of the weld is obstructed, no room for one's hand, cover a small detail paint gun w/PPG 2.0 cup system can spray epoxy upside down to run into pinch welds, behind structure, door skin folds, but simply by gravity and viscosity (10% Urethane reducer or 20%) will allow it to float in under air pressure currents & Eddie's will cover a great deal. Spray a cavity / frame wax into any area water will collect due to humidity and drops in temperature just making sure OEM drain holes are open with a wire or pick! I just prefer best practices to achieve an internal protection worthy of the external finish. DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Great video. I have 2 suggestions: #1: When opening any container for a smell test, try waving your hand at the top of the opening to spread out the fumes before breathing. #2: sometimes 0000 steel wool is referred to as Four Ott. Example: One Ott, two Ott, three Ott and four Ott.
When he was introduced to Beadmaker and perhaps Jescars Powerlock +. Those are only the other two instances I can think of that remotely compare to this.
@@M3_Foss I got to see the bead maker video but never saw the Jescar one. Now I’m going to have to go back and compare lol! I do have to say, if you can get a reaction like that out of him, you’ve got yourself a really good product.
@@lukelambert4595 absolutely. This is the best reaction I’ve seen though. Beadmaker was great and comes in second place. The powerlock was good, Matt’s “it will change your life” reaction was great. I need to go back in time and watch those again as well. It’s been awhile!
One word of advice to anyone that might use this on a surface that is to be painted later. You HAVE to rinse every last bit of Ospho off and dry the surface completely. If you don't, you will have paint adhesion issues later on.
Would you clarify this please? I’ve used Ospho for a long time but I allow it to dry overnight and then prime before painting. I’m not a painter but I haven’t seen adhesion issues either. I’m interested in your experience. Thx.
For the record, some say leaving phosphoric acid (main ingredient in ospho as far as I'm aware) on the metal will leave a blackish coating that serves as a good primer.
I'm so lost. Spi data says do not use any acid before applying epoxy primer. But ppl say it's ok just gotta wash it off with water and scuff pad? What do I do using on car fender wells with rust bubbles and ospho? Use, let dry and spray 2k epoxy? Use, wash off wo drying and prime? Use and let dry and wipe with lacquer thinner then prime? So many different answers.
I believe what you wanna do after spraying the Ospho, let it set up for 24 hours, then spray on the Ospho again, let it sit for three minutes then spray with water and give it a scrub with a dobie pad rinse again and wipe dry, maybe hit it with compressed air and or heat gun to make it drier. Someone said you need to do this with non oil based ie epoxy primers... if using oil based paint I believe you can just wipe down w mineral spirits or a solvent but I may opt to do the first way just to avoid dealing with smelly solvents... I did try using Penetrol as a primer... but.the part has been dry for 3 days so I don't know how effective it will be but I may try this on the floor of my truck to see if it can handle my boots. Problem with Penetrol is that you have to let it set up for at least 24 hours but it seems like good stuff as well, with various vehicle enhancement applications- You can get it at Blowes and Homer Depot, you can also get a gallon of Kleen Strip concrete and metal Prep for $18 which is suppose to be the same thing as Ospho- I repaired a rusty front pipe heat shield, I'm gonna try cleaning it with Ospho, Ospho (or Kleen Strip Prep) seems like it might be good to use on exhaust components if it can handle the high temperatures- I may coat more of my rusty exhaust system to see if it helps it last longer... I may spray the heat shield w hi temp header paint after the ospho sets up and I flash it w the 3 min of Ospho and then water, scrub, rinse and dry.
The whole time I am thinking, “Don’t get any on the Porsche!” I always move my cars away if I am going to use industrial chemicals. My version of obsessed.
Great!. I've been using Ospho on a 83 Cub Cadet restore. The locals here in rural southern Georgia highly recommended it. Also on an old Sears and Roebuck garden trailer that amazingly hardly has any rust and built like a tank. Subscribed and enjoyed your video. One of the guys at the paint shop emphasized to make sure you rinse it all off with water or your paint can blister.
The first I heard of this was when Scott (Dryceman) used it on the M3. After watching this I went out and got some (my hardware store had it) and used it on the stainless exhausts on my trucks...it works amazingly well. And that reax at 3:38. Priceless.
Mac's Aluminum brightener for about 45 seconds. (No scrubbing needed) a good spray down with the power washer and it will look brand new. $13 bucks for a gallon @ Napa auto parts.
Cool, so you've tried this product on stainless steel and it performs the same as it does on aluminum? Back in the mid 1970s, we used aluminum brightners like that but they wouldn't touch stainless. I had 14 aluminum wheels, 3 x 100 gallon aluminum diesel tanks, and an aluminum battery box cover on my 1971 Kenworth and Talbert lowboy. But we had custom stainless steel tool boxes made which we could never get looking new.
Unbelievable results! Definitely giving this a try. Interestingly phosphoric acid is what makes fizzy drinks tangy and it’s metal cleaning ability is why coke is used to clean old pennies.
We would by this stuff in 55-gal drums to clean the inside surfaces of our stainless and aluminum reactors (250-gal to 4500-gal). Orthophosphoric (acid) is the chemical name and it's used as a converter to phosphate from an oxide. I think I used to purchase it from Skybryte.
my dad showed me what ospho and phosphoric acid (stronger) can do when I was growing up, but I didn't really realize how great it was until I was trying to clean up rusty stuff for paint or new zinc plating during a resto. leave bolts in it over night and boom no rust anymore, or use it as shown in the video to scrub light rust off a surface. as some other commenters have noted however, you may want to cut it off the surface after use, otherwise it can continue to react to a lesser degree and can create white powdery residue and issues with paint adhesion.
It's always fun cleaning up metals with acid! If you've never tried this, take a VERY rusty bolt or nut and dip it overnight in a cup with some muriatic acid poured in it. Might not even take the whole night, anyway you'll come back to a completely rust-free bolt. Acid etches the surface, so you're gonna wanna paint it ASAP after you rinse and dry off the bolt or whichever part you treated. I hope you flushed out that acid you sprayed inside the exhaust. Otherwise down the road you might (or whoever has the car by then lol) encounter a little hole in the exhaust from all that internal corrosion finally making it to the other side :P.
@@gb361TX 9 out of 10 people dont want to work on their own cars...? On the other hand 9 out of 10 car heads that do their own work have a lift, access to a lift, or intend on getting their own lift...
I'm a retired painting contractor of 40 years, ospho is a product I kept on the vans. It's main purpose is to neutralize rust by chemically changing rust into a primer. One word of caution, don't get it on anything made of aluminum because it will permanently corrode it. You can buy it in gallons at any paint store or any of the big box stores. Also every painter in America has used ospho to treat rusted iron and steel.
@@BraddaMarlon Yes. I spoke to a old timer who worked with ppg. He said they used to tell ppl how to use Ospho but stopped as so many was not following exact instructions. Anything u intend on using non oil based, Rustoleum type, paint u must rewet with Ospho, acid etc, let sit for 5 min or so and wash, rinse clean with water, soap or water and baking soda to neutralize the acid reaction. This is key. If u try to use epoxy over acid dried it will have adherence issues. This is where I messed up. I thought I did this but evidently I did not. Or well enough. Why we don't rush and do things correctly. After u rinse, dry with heat. Air, etc you're good to use whatever coating. I redid it this way and shot epoxy CarRep primer with 0 issues. I highly recommend Car Rep. Hers why, for small jobs as this not needing to mix a paint cup for gun, Car Rep has NO TIME LIMIT as most 2k primer, clear or catalysts type coatings. It doesn't mix until it's coming out of the nozzle. I've wasted so much money on the other style with a cap u must flip over and puncture and then race to use it all in at most 24hrs keeping cold in fridge. Plus leftovers won't taste like epoxy. That's a joke. Also I got a very rusty exhaust clamp, Soaked with muratic auntie mostly clean. Rinse with baking soda n water, dried and then used ospho on clean dry clamp. It's still looking great today. Not only is osph good for rust it's great to keep metal from rusting. Just REWET, LET SET, THEN RINSE WITH WATER, BAKING SODA WATER MIX AND DRY B4 EPOXY. Oil based is fine. That's what it's made for is oil based. I've never had issues with ospho 2 decades. It was my fault, not the Ospho or the epoxy. Hope this helps.
@Kitjasabsgabs18 I actually got carrep 2k primer. I just want to make sure I do it right as it's a vital part of the car where I can't have it fail. The spot weld around the windshield on my 86 4runner would be a pain to have to do it twice. Water on bare metal makes me nervous
Yeah you’re right it’s from the marine industry, I worked on hatch’s in Fort Lauderdale for 23 years & we usually used Awesome OSPHO on stainless steel rails & everything metal all the time….. you can either wipe off the excess or even rinse it with water because once it’s on there it itches the metal & can go straight to priming then paint….you’ll get to enjoy the smell ! Lol
Old rust, pitting, only the surface oxidation is affected by Ospho. 1993 Truck Frame (Texas / no salt) Under hood, no engine, Rusty Cross member and Frame rails, Power steering pump side of engine bay, no rust at all, guess why... Pressure washer was initially required to expose metal, Battery side of truck, pressure washed as well, built up rust was treated with Ospho, No Go for paint, the built up rust layer had to be removed before painting, Angle grinder with brush required to finish the job, Ospho made this task much much easier. Re-treat with ospho. Because i have the weather, re pressure wash with water and dried in the Texas sun, Primer applied, Paint to be applied when that damn sun isn't overhead. (Rust-oleum Pro.)
As others have said, stainless steel wool only on stainless steel. Otherwise your rust issues will return with a vengeance and combine with stress corrosion cracking.
3:38 Life changing moment. Ever since I saw the dry ice video with the E36, I've been thinking I need to get some ospho. Not sure where to get it local though in Ontario.
Aluminum brightener/acid heavily used in the Big rigs metal polishing industry... spray bottle are almost instantly damaged once you spray any acidic additives. I actually do custom metal polishing.
Hey Matt, when I smoke ribs or what have you my stainless steel water pan turns that color brown and steel wool in warm soapy water does the trick it always amazes me how like new it is after I clean it. the ospho is definitely doing something as I have to scrub twice as hard as you to remove The discoloration maybe some APC will work for maintenance after the initial cleaning i’m definitely gonna pick some up when it hits the store have a good one
How would you use this on a truck frame still attached to the truck.? So you're pretty much working above your head..... Thoughts ? I bought a used truck. It has some rust underneath. I wanted to make it last a little bit longer.
The only problem I see with this is the fact that its 45% orthophosphoric acid which means that your spray bottle will now be single use after this has passed through it!
Oh come on man, water/vinegar would have done the same thing. That is SURFACE rust and very LIGHT surface rust at that. That's no test for that product.
Advertise this to motorcyclists. Our headers can be seen and we like our rides clean.
My first thoughts.
Is this better than muriatic acid aka Harpic?
Matt, I know it has been a year now since the video, but "Oshpo" does work well on flash rust on many metals. The brand "Klean Strip" concrete and metal prep is much cheaper at under $18 per gallon and phosphoric acid is the active ingredient at 30-40% (Intellectual Properties) but Oshpo contains some wetting agents and other non-cleaning active agents. Wetting agents are not surfactant like soap. Soap like "Dawn" dish soap is a slight alkaline which stop or neutralizes acids activity. Use "0000" steel wool works but a gray or maroon Scotch-Brite work fine depending on desired finish on the metal. I am a repair tech, an ASE Master Tech since 1978, retired, doing my due diligence by researching products by results, cost, ease of use and results for cleaning metal prior to painting or if not seen but protected, spray with an automotive grade of Epoxy 1:1 mix sealer the blocks oxygen from forming or allowing more rust to form. The "Metal Prep" cleans surface rust just like your video, but is cost effective and since this restoration is for myself, I prefer maximum protection over a long time. Few look inside a door, metal inner fender or bedside on a truck, but I do. I bothers me knowing that 90% or rust perforation occurs from the inside out. While new metal is welded in to replace thin rusted metal, if the back of the weld is obstructed, no room for one's hand, cover a small detail paint gun w/PPG 2.0 cup system can spray epoxy upside down to run into pinch welds, behind structure, door skin folds, but simply by gravity and viscosity (10% Urethane reducer or 20%) will allow it to float in under air pressure currents & Eddie's will cover a great deal. Spray a cavity / frame wax into any area water will collect due to humidity and drops in temperature just making sure OEM drain holes are open with a wire or pick!
I just prefer best practices to achieve an internal protection worthy of the external finish.
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Thank you for the detailed instructions and helpful hints. It is vital to keep the drain holes open - especially if you drive on “salted’ roads.
Great video. I have 2 suggestions: #1: When opening any container for a smell test, try waving your hand at the top of the opening to spread out the fumes before breathing. #2: sometimes 0000 steel wool is referred to as Four Ott. Example: One Ott, two Ott, three Ott and four Ott.
I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve spent watching Matt on here. I have NEVER seen him react like that to anything.
When he was introduced to Beadmaker and perhaps Jescars Powerlock +. Those are only the other two instances I can think of that remotely compare to this.
@@M3_Foss I got to see the bead maker video but never saw the Jescar one. Now I’m going to have to go back and compare lol! I do have to say, if you can get a reaction like that out of him, you’ve got yourself a really good product.
@@lukelambert4595 absolutely. This is the best reaction I’ve seen though. Beadmaker was great and comes in second place. The powerlock was good, Matt’s “it will change your life” reaction was great. I need to go back in time and watch those again as well. It’s been awhile!
Except when TRC made him look like an absolute goofball in their Beadmaker video thumbnail
please use STAINLESS steel wool so you won't impregnate the material with carbon steel that rusts instant
I use a fine scotch brite pad
welp, guess we should look forward to a 6 part series about finding the best steel wool on the face of this earth haha
One word of advice to anyone that might use this on a surface that is to be painted later. You HAVE to rinse every last bit of Ospho off and dry the surface completely. If you don't, you will have paint adhesion issues later on.
Would you clarify this please? I’ve used Ospho for a long time but I allow it to dry overnight and then prime before painting. I’m not a painter but I haven’t seen adhesion issues either. I’m interested in your experience. Thx.
For the record, some say leaving phosphoric acid (main ingredient in ospho as far as I'm aware) on the metal will leave a blackish coating that serves as a good primer.
I'm so lost. Spi data says do not use any acid before applying epoxy primer. But ppl say it's ok just gotta wash it off with water and scuff pad? What do I do using on car fender wells with rust bubbles and ospho? Use, let dry and spray 2k epoxy? Use, wash off wo drying and prime? Use and let dry and wipe with lacquer thinner then prime? So many different answers.
I believe what you wanna do after spraying the Ospho, let it set up for 24 hours, then spray on the Ospho again, let it sit for three minutes then spray with water and give it a scrub with a dobie pad rinse again and wipe dry, maybe hit it with compressed air and or heat gun to make it drier. Someone said you need to do this with non oil based ie epoxy primers... if using oil based paint I believe you can just wipe down w mineral spirits or a solvent but I may opt to do the first way just to avoid dealing with smelly solvents... I did try using Penetrol as a primer... but.the part has been dry for 3 days so I don't know how effective it will be but I may try this on the floor of my truck to see if it can handle my boots. Problem with Penetrol is that you have to let it set up for at least 24 hours but it seems like good stuff as well, with various vehicle enhancement applications- You can get it at Blowes and Homer Depot, you can also get a gallon of Kleen Strip concrete and metal Prep for $18 which is suppose to be the same thing as Ospho-
I repaired a rusty front pipe heat shield, I'm gonna try cleaning it with Ospho, Ospho (or Kleen Strip Prep) seems like it might be good to use on exhaust components if it can handle the high temperatures- I may coat more of my rusty exhaust system to see if it helps it last longer... I may spray the heat shield w hi temp header paint after the ospho sets up and I flash it w the 3 min of Ospho and then water, scrub, rinse and dry.
@@metalguru6152 Smoke a doobie while I wait. Lmao thank you for reply. Have a great week.
Everybody needs someone that looks at them like Matt looked at the Ospho 🤣😭
The whole time I am thinking, “Don’t get any on the Porsche!” I always move my cars away if I am going to use industrial chemicals. My version of obsessed.
Great!. I've been using Ospho on a 83 Cub Cadet restore. The locals here in rural southern Georgia highly recommended it. Also on an old Sears and Roebuck garden trailer that amazingly hardly has any rust and built like a tank. Subscribed and enjoyed your video. One of the guys at the paint shop emphasized to make sure you rinse it all off with water or your paint can blister.
Never have seen Matt that excited! :)
The first I heard of this was when Scott (Dryceman) used it on the M3. After watching this I went out and got some (my hardware store had it) and used it on the stainless exhausts on my trucks...it works amazingly well.
And that reax at 3:38. Priceless.
Please wear eye protection. Remember this is phosphoric acid. Neutralize with water then towel dry.
This is outrageous at how easy it's cleaning the metal
Well it's an acid :)
Mac's Aluminum brightener for about 45 seconds. (No scrubbing needed) a good spray down with the power washer and it will look brand new.
$13 bucks for a gallon @ Napa auto parts.
Cool, so you've tried this product on stainless steel and it performs the same as it does on aluminum? Back in the mid 1970s, we used aluminum brightners like that but they wouldn't touch stainless. I had 14 aluminum wheels, 3 x 100 gallon aluminum diesel tanks, and an aluminum battery box cover on my 1971 Kenworth and Talbert lowboy. But we had custom stainless steel tool boxes made which we could never get looking new.
You officially made the short list to be the next Slap Chop guy with that reaction
Unbelievable results! Definitely giving this a try. Interestingly phosphoric acid is what makes fizzy drinks tangy and it’s metal cleaning ability is why coke is used to clean old pennies.
We would by this stuff in 55-gal drums to clean the inside surfaces of our stainless and aluminum reactors (250-gal to 4500-gal). Orthophosphoric (acid) is the chemical name and it's used as a converter to phosphate from an oxide. I think I used to purchase it from Skybryte.
That's who makes ospho. Skybrite
You can buy ospho at Home Depot, Ace Hardware.
my dad showed me what ospho and phosphoric acid (stronger) can do when I was growing up, but I didn't really realize how great it was until I was trying to clean up rusty stuff for paint or new zinc plating during a resto. leave bolts in it over night and boom no rust anymore, or use it as shown in the video to scrub light rust off a surface.
as some other commenters have noted however, you may want to cut it off the surface after use, otherwise it can continue to react to a lesser degree and can create white powdery residue and issues with paint adhesion.
Oh wow. Is that the green liquid people use in ultrasonic cleaning? I always wondered what it was.
How to cut it off surface? Water, thinner, sanding?
I bought it after watching M3 video. I works so good
You gotta use that reaction clip on the store page for this. Only the reaction part it would be hilarious
Nice to see him very happy
Almost feels like a Shamwow infomercial! Ha!
It's always fun cleaning up metals with acid! If you've never tried this, take a VERY rusty bolt or nut and dip it overnight in a cup with some muriatic acid poured in it. Might not even take the whole night, anyway you'll come back to a completely rust-free bolt. Acid etches the surface, so you're gonna wanna paint it ASAP after you rinse and dry off the bolt or whichever part you treated. I hope you flushed out that acid you sprayed inside the exhaust. Otherwise down the road you might (or whoever has the car by then lol) encounter a little hole in the exhaust from all that internal corrosion finally making it to the other side :P.
I like how you say , " every time you get your car up in the air just wipe it down" like everyone is fortunate to have a lift in their garage!🤦🏻♂️😂
I'm not rich, I have a lift? Wait, am I rich!
@@greentipacademy8696 🤣😂
A lift is like 1500 bucks what r u on about
@@Thebadbeaver9 your taking the rich part way to serious bro!🤦🏻♂️ the whole point is 9 out of 10 people dont have a lift..
.
@@gb361TX 9 out of 10 people dont want to work on their own cars...? On the other hand 9 out of 10 car heads that do their own work have a lift, access to a lift, or intend on getting their own lift...
I'm a retired painting contractor of 40 years, ospho is a product I kept on the vans. It's main purpose is to neutralize rust by chemically changing rust into a primer. One word of caution, don't get it on anything made of aluminum because it will permanently corrode it. You can buy it in gallons at any paint store or any of the big box stores. Also every painter in America has used ospho to treat rusted iron and steel.
What to do after using to paint with 2 k epoxy, 2 part epoxy? No blasting just fender well rust and fix. Thank u.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 did you ever figure it out?
@@BraddaMarlon Yes. I spoke to a old timer who worked with ppg. He said they used to tell ppl how to use Ospho but stopped as so many was not following exact instructions. Anything u intend on using non oil based, Rustoleum type, paint u must rewet with Ospho, acid etc, let sit for 5 min or so and wash, rinse clean with water, soap or water and baking soda to neutralize the acid reaction. This is key. If u try to use epoxy over acid dried it will have adherence issues. This is where I messed up. I thought I did this but evidently I did not. Or well enough. Why we don't rush and do things correctly. After u rinse, dry with heat. Air, etc you're good to use whatever coating. I redid it this way and shot epoxy CarRep primer with 0 issues. I highly recommend Car Rep. Hers why, for small jobs as this not needing to mix a paint cup for gun, Car Rep has NO TIME LIMIT as most 2k primer, clear or catalysts type coatings. It doesn't mix until it's coming out of the nozzle. I've wasted so much money on the other style with a cap u must flip over and puncture and then race to use it all in at most 24hrs keeping cold in fridge. Plus leftovers won't taste like epoxy. That's a joke. Also I got a very rusty exhaust clamp, Soaked with muratic auntie mostly clean. Rinse with baking soda n water, dried and then used ospho on clean dry clamp. It's still looking great today. Not only is osph good for rust it's great to keep metal from rusting. Just REWET, LET SET, THEN RINSE WITH WATER, BAKING SODA WATER MIX AND DRY B4 EPOXY. Oil based is fine. That's what it's made for is oil based. I've never had issues with ospho 2 decades. It was my fault, not the Ospho or the epoxy. Hope this helps.
@Kitjasabsgabs18 I actually got carrep 2k primer. I just want to make sure I do it right as it's a vital part of the car where I can't have it fail. The spot weld around the windshield on my 86 4runner would be a pain to have to do it twice. Water on bare metal makes me nervous
Thank you for all the help still nervous but I'll trust your advice
Seeing you get blown away by a product is not only rare, its hilarious haha
I cleaned a full factory exhaust front to back in 20 minutes. Looks like new
Holy mackerel. I need this for my duramax exhaust, badly!
lookup concrete and metal prep by Klean Strip bro. Same exact product at half the price. One gallon is $18.
Was gonna say the same.
Yeah you’re right it’s from the marine industry, I worked on hatch’s in Fort Lauderdale for 23 years & we usually used
Awesome OSPHO on stainless steel rails & everything metal all the time…..
you can either wipe off the excess or even rinse it with water because once it’s on there it itches the metal & can go straight to priming then paint….you’ll get to enjoy the smell ! Lol
That stuff is birth control at its best!
I thought the best birth control was being a fatty.
@@timkinley1779 Cannot confirm. Am fatty, have reproduced 3x (with willing partners!) lol
Ospho is very common. Any hardware store should have it and it should be very easy to become a reseller.
That looks so good Matt.
Holy crap, now that's satisfying.
Tip, do some Green Star afterwards to neutralise the acids - and Mat, you can sell it like a package 😉 great work 👌
Old rust, pitting, only the surface oxidation is affected by Ospho.
1993 Truck Frame (Texas / no salt) Under hood, no engine, Rusty Cross member and Frame rails, Power steering pump side of engine bay, no rust at all, guess why... Pressure washer was initially required to expose metal, Battery side of truck, pressure washed as well, built up rust was treated with Ospho, No Go for paint, the built up rust layer had to be removed before painting, Angle grinder with brush required to finish the job, Ospho made this task much much easier. Re-treat with ospho. Because i have the weather, re pressure wash with water and dried in the Texas sun, Primer applied, Paint to be applied when that damn sun isn't overhead. (Rust-oleum Pro.)
Glad I stayed up tonight :)
Unbelievable amount of content
This is similar to "bar keepers friend" for your stainless steel cookware. That stuff is also magic in the kitchen lol.
That stuff does wonders on polished split wheel lips !
You can find this stuff anywhere. I’m sure I’ve seen it at Home Depot
@@jrose7381 And many other retail stores too! But they didn't tell you about it or teach you what is possible. Did they?
As others have said, stainless steel wool only on stainless steel. Otherwise your rust issues will return with a vengeance and combine with stress corrosion cracking.
It’s the steel wool. You’d get the same results with water. Old body shop secret.
Your happiness when cleaning is unparalleled.
That is totally NOT true! I know because I tried it. Sorry.
Yes the ACID has nothing to do with the rust being killed its the wool.
Matt you crack me up .... I want some of that!
Good God I need a bottle of this ASAP please !
Matt is the happiest kid in the room when something just works Ha,ha...
On this episode of Obsessed Garage:
Matt cleans a thing!
Ole Matty is amazed by a cleaner!
Matty might make a dollar selling a used part!
😅😅
Dont all stainless steel cleaners/rust removers work like this?
So if you could carry this in the store will you be able to ship this across the country and how do you guys deal with the hazmat issue of shipping???
Most hardwares carry this you should easily be able to find it
3:38
Life changing moment.
Ever since I saw the dry ice video with the E36, I've been thinking I need to get some ospho. Not sure where to get it local though in Ontario.
You can buy that stuff at any ACE hardware
Indeed
Aluminum brightener/acid heavily used in the Big rigs metal polishing industry... spray bottle are almost instantly damaged once you spray any acidic additives. I actually do custom metal polishing.
« It really doesn’t smell » (meanwhile Matt’s nose hairs have disintegrated).
If you are trying to smell something like that you should waft/wave it to your nose so you don’t get a lot of the vapors and possibly hurt yourself.
Hey Matt, when I smoke ribs or what have you my stainless steel water pan turns that color brown and steel wool in warm soapy water does the trick it always amazes me how like new it is after I clean it. the ospho is definitely doing something as I have to scrub twice as hard as you to remove The discoloration maybe some APC will work for maintenance after the initial cleaning i’m definitely gonna pick some up when it hits the store have a good one
How would you use this on a truck frame still attached to the truck.?
So you're pretty much working above your head.....
Thoughts ?
I bought a used truck. It has some rust underneath. I wanted to make it last a little bit longer.
I think you could do that. Just wear a respirator and work one section at a time.
That was very cool. Try it on other metals
Meguiars wheel brightener works very well when used with steel wool
That was fun to watch. Fun starts at 3:34 people.
What does Ospho do on cast iron? I'm looking for a finish for my cast iron bench
Wow! That’s great!
"But wait........there's more"
But can it core a apple?
Matty's money shot 3:35
First...lets go. Get this on the store Matt
Coming very soon!
You can easily pick this up at any hardware. Ace usually has it. 👍🏻
Klean Strip Metal Prep. Same shit 1/2 the price.
This is like $30 a gallon.
I see the results you are getting, but I am also reading this " Ospho chemical alters rust into a stable surface which looks black"
Yes if u spray and let dry, not scrub with scuff pad and rinse with 99 alcohol.
Would this work on Titanium exhausts?
photos.app.goo.gl/J62VDgU2cr9CGSJc6
There’s nothing better than Matt shitting on something
Matt, Any eta on this being in the store?
Should be closing on this Monday. Stay tuned!
@@ScottAles nice!
can you use it on motorcycle headers?
Yes. Keep it away from the paint and plastics. Spray it on the steel wool for better control. Watch the drips!
Not if the headers are chrome plated. It can cause pitting, especially if rust has already started forming under the chrome layer.
Perfect for cleaning up the nasty Weber grill.
About to take the exhaust off mh tesla and do this 😁
PFM! Get me some of that.
I need it where can I get it
Hardware stores
@@emiller7040 am in the uk
@@coastalrider1155 you don’t have hardware stores in the uk?
@@elisscaliving4776 yip didn’t know if it was a yank product tho
😂 Haha that reaction 🤣
How long until Matt start cleaning undercarriages 🤣
Quad zero steel wool.
The only problem I see with this is the fact that its 45% orthophosphoric acid which means that your spray bottle will now be single use after this has passed through it!
Good thing spray bottles are super cheap.
Tolco Acid Resistent Sprayers for this.
I use old peroxide, febreeze bottles and it's fine.
awesome
RIP iK sprayers
Oh come on man, water/vinegar would have done the same thing. That is SURFACE rust and very LIGHT surface rust at that. That's no test for that product.
Skip forward to 8:40 and you will see how well this stuff really works.
Did you guys see Matt's 'O' face?
wow
It is a Rust Treatment product...please treat it as such....
👍
Douch zoom lol
#0000
Ospho is diluted muriatic acid.....
I'm pretty sure it is phosphoric acid.
@@ObsessedGarage I get that but does the same thing as diluted muriatic acid. Turns steel white.
😂
4 ot