Which Rust Remover is Best?!
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2020
- Watch Part 2 Here!!! • Which Rust Remover is ...
Check out my brand new channel! / @trgfoundry5276
One of the biggest restoration challenges is Rust Removal! In response to viewer requests, I have set out to see which of these conventional Rust Remover products and DIY Rust Removal methods works the best.
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/ trgrestorations
Products I Use In This Video:
Muriatic Acid: amzn.to/2YAFev3
Citric Acid: amzn.to/30DGFM9
Evapo-rust: amzn.to/30FhybA
WD-40 Rust Soak: amzn.to/3edVpFa
Zep Rust Remover: amzn.to/37tFq3r
CLR Rust Remover: amzn.to/3e5DGjw
Cleaning Vinegar: amzn.to/2Yx47bi
Electrolysis:
Super Washing Soda: amzn.to/3d18u3m
Battery Charger: amzn.to/3fpaR1D
Analysis:
Muriatic Acid: This gave the best results, after only two hours the rusted spring looked as good as new! The time taken and the quality of the finished product are definitely both marks in the Rust Removal "Pro" column. However there are quite a few marks in the "Con" column as well. For starters, Muriatic Acid is a very caustic chemical. If left in too long, the acid will begin to eat away at the metal of the part that you are working on. Not to mention it is dangerous to work with and difficult to dispose of when finished.
Citric Acid: This is a more mild ac id that still works well. It's inexpensive price makes it pretty attractive. And it is relatively harmless; citric acid is found in most of the food and drinks in your kitchen. But because it is a mild acid, it is not very fast acting. The demo piece was left in for 12 hours and could have actually been left for a few more to achieve maximum effectiveness.
WD-40 Rust Soak and Evapo-Rust: These products were designed for this very purpose. They are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased in varying sizes, including 55-gallon drums! The tend to take a little longer than some of the other rust removal methods, but both products advertise that they are Non-Toxic, Environmentally Safe, and will not damage the material you are working on.
CLR and ZEP: These both worked fairly well. The products were intended to clean of rust stains, but they're liquid so they can work as a rust soak as well. I think because of the similarity in price, In would opt for a product like Evapo-Rust, but if availability is an issue, it's nice to have a few extra tools in the tool box!
Vinegar: Vinegar is a good rust removal product when nothing else is available. It would not be my go to rust remover, but it is super cheap and can be found just about anywhere. It will take a lot longer than just about any of the other products i tried, and it will eat certain types of metals. But, if you can't make it to the store, chances are you already have some vinegar in that cabinet under the kitchen sink!
Electrolysis: This is a really fun method to try, it definitely works, and if you have the proper size container and a few other supplies you can treat just about anything from a car rim to an entire car. So it's pretty cost effective and works fairly quickly. One thing to be careful of, some metals can leach noxious fumes when heated so you'll want to do this in a well ventilated area. And there's also that whole thing about electricity and water, definitely be careful!
Coke and Pepsi: I think we were all hopeful but actually kinda knew those wouldn't work. Technically they do have the potential to work... they both contain Citric Acid, which we've seen will remove rust quite well. But they contain such minute amounts of citric acid that the rust removal process would take weeks, possibly months, depending on the size of your project and the severity of the rust.
Sandblasting: It absolutely works! Big Fan! It can remove rust, dirt, paint, and just about anything else to take a piece down to bare metal. But it's probably not the most practical solution when you consider a basic set-up of a Blast Cabinet, Blast Media, Air Filtration System, and an Air Compressor with enough CFM to run efficiently will run you about $1,000 at a minimum.
I hope you enjoyed this video! Give it a like and a share on Facebook, and be sure to let me know in the comments if there are any other Rust Removal methods or products that you'd like to see put to the test.
Disclosure: The products listed above are listed using affiliate links. As an associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Affiliate link purchases help fund projects on this channel. Thank you!
#rust #rustremoval #rustremover electrolysis rust removal - Навчання та стиль
Really man from all mechanics, hobby or professional, from all corners of the globe:
THIS is what we needed. No blabbering, not just one product, no speculations on expectations, no bias, no commentary.
Just straight process. Exact data. Side by side comparison.
We need this kinda content.
I personally came here to see which one to use on a current project and thanks to you presenting the method, timeframe and results I was able to pick the best one for me.
Thank you so much. You saved me from watching tons of inconclusive videos and wasting good money on useless products.
I think I can say thank you on behalf of anyone who’s ever worked on anything that involves metal
Battery solution is the best rust remover
So with one you did choose?
@@freebirdcanfly2827 so far I’ve been using wd40 tbh but I’m considering alternatives
@@ivanc9087 Thank you so much ❤️˘◡˘❤️
I wishing you a beautiful and Happy Weekend! ٩꒰๑•‿•๑꒱۶
The best day ever is now!
Much Love Thierry ◕‿↼
Unlike Adam Savage
A perfect video! Straight to the point, exact details, nothing extraneous, excellent photography. No annoying music, chirpy narration, or blathering. I give you A+!!
Love your comment Trish Fitzpatrick. Your blunt and to the point. I also give it A+
99.9%/100. Unlike most videos I’ve seen on here. Where I end up skipping bits out. Due to the highly annoying music or irritating “ Siri style “ narration. I was watching this and did not even notice until I started reading the comments.
@@richardharries5825 I skip the wobbly bits too but the maddening thing is, it's possible to skip something that's important. The trend, however, is moving in the right direction since UA-cam is growing up.
This is the way!
@Trish Fitzpatrick "No annoying music..." I love it! 😀 I've had to mute so many videos so much of the time! The music often gets in the way of focusing on the informational content of the video and many times does not match what you're watching.
- I agree 100% AAAAAA+++
A word of warning about electrolysis - it works well but hydrogen gas collects on the object being derusted and can be absorbed and cause "Hydrogen Embrittlement". Parts like springs can snap under load. Lots of information available on the web.
Yikes. Thanks
Same with vinegar and various other acids, i have seen spring steel snap after someone used vinegar to remove rust.
If you have good, aviation quality anti-seize, you can spray the springs dripping wet immediately after drying them off, and you should be good to go. But I would caution against reusing heated springs or even bolts.
This was my thought while watching…important to know how each chemical affects the integrity of the spring!
Also electrolysis generates hydrogen, which when mixed with oxygen becomes an explosive mix. Need ventilation.
Nice! no annoying music. No beating around the bush - just straight video showing the results.
Not since I was a child along time ago and grew up watching tom and jerry and other cartoons have I witnessed so much information conveyed with absolutely no words. Fantastic
It took me so long to realize they never talked.
Best, non speaking, scientific video, for everyday uses, on the inter-web. Thanks for your time, patience, and effort. Good job.
Agreed, its like a silent project farm.
Yes, NO BS. Cut through the BS. No-nonsese. Just hard core evidence. Perfect!
LOL, that reads like a Grammy nomination
Yes! I wish some other how-to videos were as concise.
I’m curious if he used regular 4-6% white vinegar or if he used the 30% industrial vinegar. That stuffs amazing
A word about sand and glass bead blasting is that it not only as in this case takes the rust but can also take away some of the good metal surface away also. Plus, it leaves a rough surface that leaves sharp very small pits that may lead to cracks. What we used on the aircraft were walnut shells. It only took the paint and corrosion and left the good surface intact without any sharp pits.
How did you use walnut shells?
@@robertmuse5188 The same way you use a sand blaster. The walnut shells are ground up so they can go through the blaster. Also for larger projects there is a somewhat newer process called soda blasting. using baking soda I think.
Blasting is really a whole 'nother topic itself (no slight to the author; this is an awesome comparison). There are at least a dozen common blasting medias, running from plastic beads to walnut shells/corn cobs, to glass beads, crushed glass, aluminum oxide, crushed garnet, and finally to steel beads. Each of these comes in a range of coarseness, and in the case of metallic media, hardness ratings, as well. The correct media is a function of what you want removed, how rough you want the resulting surface to be, the hardness of the subject item, and whether you want the surface mechanically altered (e.g. etching glass or shot-peening a steel part). With the correct media, you can thoroughly and quickly prep anything from delicate aluminum aerospace parts to the multi-inch thick steel hull of a ship.
Ironically, conventional sand, which breaks down into dangerous silica dust, should NEVER be used, because inhaling silica will seriously--and quickly--cause permanent lung damage. But we still call it "sand-blasting". Go figure.
it was aluminium that was treated on aircraft, i guess. for aluminium (soft metal), yes, less abrasive particles are needed (soda etc).
I'd doubt anyone would use this in critical applications, these look like bed springs, furniture springs.
Any type of treatment is going to weaken the metal to a certain degree, but it's better than letting rust continue to eat away at the material.
I like using apple cider vinegar. it works great . I'd also add that if you don't wash the vinegar off in baking soda to neutralize the vinegar , it will almost instantly start to flash rust. awesome video.
Is that what happens with muriatic acid? Is happening to me. But I’m not using the baking soda.
Do you put on a slurry of baking soda, and then wash off? Or do you apply the baking soda dry? Thanks!
Tried the citric acid only some very large wheels from a stationary steam engine. Left each wheel submerged for 48 hours, the thick crusty rust was then very easy to brush off. Great result!
Do you think this would work on clothes left to dry on a metal hanging line?
@@bumblebee4280 for clothes, lemon juice,salt, leave in sun for a while. Rust spots on my white shirts disappeared in couple of hours or, instead of lemon juice,vinager worked also
I think Citric Acid gave the best results here, other methods seem to have eaten into the surface slightly, Citric Acid didn't.
@@bumblebee4280 Oxalic acid, you can buy it at the pharmacy and you put some on the clothes then pour hot water over it, it’ll take the rust out.
I’ve used peroxide on clothes, works great until left too long, then eats the fabric!
Sandblasting looks fine, but I'm not sure there's a way to reach the interior well, at least not as well as a liquid can. Springs were a good test subject choice as they highlight this limitation.
Sandblasting takes away base.metal as.well
Good reasoning..tc
@@brainretardant Only rust removing method that does not take away base metal is electrolysis. It actually converts some of the rust back into pure metal.
Stretching the spring maybe?
The problem with sandblasting too is that 99.9% of people do not have that in convenience, it requires those specific tools, whereas the liquids can easily be bought by anyone & all you need is a bucket/container.
My tried and trusted method is water and aluminium foil. Just grab a square or a bunch of foil and dip it or spray it with water (I use an old sqooshy bottle from a kitchen surface cleaner or something similar), and rub the foil onto the rusted part of the metal. This is not only cheap and easily available but IT WORKS GREAT. I have used it on everything from bicycle parts to interior fittings to tools and everything in between and it does the job beautifully.
Never heard of it
@@peterliemareff8894 You have now!😉
I am learning about galvanization and dealing with rust in general. Your video was not only informative, but formatted very well. Thank you for sharing!
Citric Acid, Definitely looked like the best result to me
I agree - my thoughts exactly.
that settles it. no more orange juice for me. lol
Is not the best, but is the cheapers 🤣
I was thinking electrolysis, though I was impressed with the Citric acid.
Sand blasting is great but what about the inside? That stays rusty. Citric acid seems the best and even vinegar.
What is your opinion? Your looking at them directly.
Try my boss's breath, it could peel the chrome off a car bumper, instantly.
There's a mask for that.
@@zap... Yeah a p3 for that breath
Dude u made my day
Chrome car bumper? Dude, where you been? Ain't been chrome bumpers since the 70s!
@@tarstarkusz His boss's breath might be one of the reasons
I came here for the info , stayed for the unintentional ASMR ( almost fell asleep ) . Great video btw , straight to the point , plus it was really relaxing ( hardly any loud noises , just perfect ).
A++++. Exactly how a comparison should be performed. Straight comparison, no blabbering. Let the results do ALL the talking.
Somewhere there‘s a little boy who now has a trampoline with springs in different degrees of oxidation. 🤪
Funny, but we all know a trampoline breaks long before the springs rust... hence how you get a buckets full of perfectly good springs.
FIFLE
This made me happy until @mdyyyy made it non-fiction
How to remove red rust on aluminium castings surface. Red rust happened due to rubbing in heat treatment baskets. Please guide suitable solution
@@AvgDan yeah, usually the mat. But that’s replaceable and you just keep on going.
You should add a stretch test to see if any of the metals were weakened
Project farm would've. That would of been the ace in the whole. Alas.
WD-40 is my go to. It removes rust but it also keeps rust away with regular use. Been using it all of my adult life and I am 73 years of age.
You've done very well. Solvents in the body allow some things which naturalhy pass through the body, as the are, develop later stages which can cause trouble..
Great video! one minor miss: In the final , quick look section, the Muriatic Acid spring is not included. But It's there earlier on ( 6:06 ) so no problem. I wouldn't mind having you tell us which one looked the best upon close inspection.
Yeah, i noticed that too
I thought that too, but it was the first result he showed. Had to replay it.
The name comes in at the lower left corner, but its delayed and then only there for a second.
Plus, the Muriatic only took 2 hours. By far the best result in the shortest time.
@@evelynmahoney3569 p
Depending on the concentration, it can remove that amount of rust in a couple minutes. Be warned however that the gases produced can be fatal.
It would be nice to weight the spring before and after to see how much rust came out for each solution.
You must be an engineer or a chemist.
Good idea!
Even though I wouldn't personally need that info I would find it fascinating.
Yes!
he could even take the weight of the spring, subtract from with the rust, and use that weight to find the % of rust removed :)
Thank you, I think I'll go with concentrated vinegar or citric acid, as they seem very safe and are cheap for me to get.
Yes u r safe now
@@marutiinandan Stay safe!🤪
@@marutiinandan safely doing the needful is best, sir.
Just tried the citric acid and water on a rusty plier. Worked perfectly! Thanks!
One of the best comparisons video's I've seen. Thank You. On to Part 2 now.
You forgot to show the Muriatic Acid spring at the end. It would have been cool to have a shot of them all lined up, but with the treatment underneath. SO you could see them all in the same frame, just a suggestion, thanks.
I Agree! Great presentation...
Wrong, it's shown at 06.02, the very first item on the results. Also on the Show More it's all been documented.
Nuria tic acid is the best.
It would help if he could at least comment with the products used from left to right so I could figure out which is which.
Indeed, at the end including the untreated one there are a total of 11 inidividual springs shown, but the very final shot with all of them together shows 12 springs. Missing one in the individual shots was the muriatic acid one then. Final shot with the 12 of them together could have still shown them labelled. I don't think they appear there in the exact same order as when shown individually
THIS IS HOW YOU DO AN EXPERIMENT! For something this simple, no talking is necessary. Let the results speak for themselves. Glad that he showed that different methods required different soak times. Didn't even need this, just an egghead flipping through videos, but was mesmerized. Will subscribe, and I rarely subscribe.
Thank you! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Phosphoric Acid is the main ingredient in many rust stoppers followed by a supporting paint coating. KBS Rust kit is what I use and LOVE!
I love the fact that the bottles lined up create a color theme.
Great video! Now I can clean all my rusty springs that's been piling up 😊
One which might be worth trying is a mix of HCl and Citric. Ctric is a triple acid and buffers solutions really well
This was great. Thanks for posting it! I really liked the fact that your last photo showed ALL of them laying side by side. I also appreciated the fact that you gave the Coke and Pepsi about TWICE the time that you gave the other products. My guess is that you had run experiments like these before, and so you knew that someone (like me) might "whine" that "Coke and Pepsi might just take a lot longer to get the job done!" :-) Great video, Dude.
Given the price point, I am really surprised plain old white vinegar worked that well! Great video!
it's a good house cleaning product. put it in with a slice of lemon, a cup of water in your electric jug to clean it
@@emilyvickery8081 I clean mine without lemon, put vinegar in it and than turn it on for a moment to heat up, hot wokrs faster
Vinegar
White Vinegar is my go to solution if you can afford a little wait....; it's CHEAP and its SAFE and it doesn't damage the metal you want to clean...!
Vinegar is an acidic solution. So it derust just like any acidic solution.
It also speeds up the rusting process, if you don't protect the derusted metal right away the rust will came back really fast and aggressively.
Thanks for an interesting video, would liked to have seen how Naval Jelly would have fared...
Your voice is silky smooth bro!
He told me to buy beer subliminally!
Well done. Need more videos like this.
I had an old saw that was completely covered in thick rust. I put paper towels on two spots and poured apple cider vinegar on one and white vinegar on the other. I put Dawn Ultra dish liquid on a third spot. I covered them in plastic and left them overnight. The vinegars both worked extremely well with no difference between them. The Dawn did some but not nearly as much. I scraped the dissolved rust residue off and did both sides with white vinegar again, cleaned and repeated. It left a dark patina but removed virtually all the rust. I sprayed both sides with WD-40 to keep it from re-rusting.
I agree, white vinegar is definitely best.
I know this test was to see the best results for removing rust, one person commented on the in side not cleaned. I have cleaned extension springs by mounting them on a fixture with pins expanding them so you can clean between and inside.
I'm not sure if that's the point that the other guy is trying to make. Pretty sure he meant any type of tube. I will agree with you that springs have a simple workaround for that issue but if you were dealing with tube steel that has a flange on the ends it makes it more difficult. Not impossible but still more difficult. (Sorry for Necro.)
I think that can make shorter chemical reaction time by adding graphite stick with vibrator.
But in electro plating industry , they use HCl and NaOH treat.
@Marc K OMG, thank you for saying this…I was going to do that on a bunch of parts, and hadn’t even considered the effects on different metals. You’ve just saved me from making a potentially dangerous mistake!
How about using an ultrasonic along with one of these solutions? Think that might help?
Great Video! I use the HF Blaster like you pictured. When I do springs I pull apart with brake pliers to get at all the areas.
Fantastic no nonsense video! For small items
I normally use a bench mounted wire wheel, "Naval Jelly", or both. They work. So I never really tried anything else. I was impressed with the muriatic acid (probably only a good idea if you have a swimming pool, & use this to clean it), citric acid, & electrolysis methods.
I restore and collect vintage cast iron for a hobby, for me electrolysis and Evapo rust works best for what I do
I loved the no talking part... let the results speak for themselves!! Thanks!
@reality czech #9 analysis results are on the description I love this video, how there was no stupid channel introduction and to please subscribe.
@reality czech #9 :[
@Jenni :[
A great demonstration of something that I would NOT take the time to do. Thanks for sharing this!
Citric Acid was impressive. Evapo-Rust I'll have to say worked really well. Vinegar did way better than I thought it would, especially in that time frame. A little steel brush to that vinegar example would have improved it even more. Coca-Cola and Pepsi, well maybe if they had a lot more time to work they might have done better. Great video!!
Make yer laugh.. I was working with dad doing metal guttering he sent me to buy a bottle of coke ha ha came back he poured into a cup and cut slivers of galavized tin in it then used it for solderng 'soddering' flux what a waste of coke.. I grew up on it...
Your vinegar will work both faster and better if you add some 30 percent pure hydrogen peroxide to it.
@@allenhonaker4107 Yes, that's corrosive enough even for rust, but it seems he didn't demonstrate that in this video, so I'm only commenting on what he demonstrated in this video.
Can evaporust be used in furniture like outdoor metal chairs?
@@30arminda I don't know, but I'm guessing it would depend on what the material is you're applying it to. If you are immersing an entire furniture piece in Evapo-Rust you need a container big enough to hold it with enough Evapo-Rust to do the job.
Excellent work, and thank you for making the video.
It's just hard to tell them apart except for about 3 of them.
It's odd though, when you pull the vinegar spring, in the jar, it looked shiny bright.
Just can't tell that in the last shot, notlr when it's held next to the rusty spring for comparison.
I use vinegar but I add 2 tablespoons of salt .
@@bernardkinsky1637 Looks worth a try. I happen to have a whole lotta springs.
Thanks for the comparison! It was good to see the reactions - successes and failures!
But thanks be to God, which giveth us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ. 1 Corinthians 15:57 KJV
I'm really impressed with the variety. I was surprised naval jelly was not among the methods tested though. One thing I would be interested in is how well each method removed the rust from the intersteces and touching surfaces of the spring, where I would think some methods might not be able to reach. Also some note as to how badly pitted the metal surfaces were after rust removal after each treatment.
Naval jelly is a rust converter
i literally smelt the muriatic acid when you took out the sping and put it in the baking soda .. my brain recalled the pungent flavour and tinge of tast in my tongue and nostrils !! and throat😲..Thank you for the splendid show !
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, for this excellent rust removal analysis video! It really helped me to make a determination.
Im trying to clean really old, rusty, keys. Thanks for sharing your efforts!
Try Brasso, bartenders/keepers helper, or copper cleaner.
I can't remember what I used as a kid in my dads locksmith shop.
I am curious to see how the chemicals he used here will work since keys are typically brass.
If you find an easy, cheap option, let me know.
A nice comparison, with reasonable allowance of time. But, one final step is skipped for Evaporust and others. These require that the residue of converted rust be removed using a brush, and preferably soap and water. This gives you a look at what the final result actually is. The black stuff needs to come off. Also, evaporust is considerably more effective and much faster at elevated temps. 90-100F makes the difference between a couple of hours and 24 hours !
I love the fact that you showed us each solution as opposed to talking ut through, which makes a person loose track of what's really going on. Great job
THANK YOU SO MUCH! GREAT VIDEO ALTOGETHER! LOVE THE PLANNING, ORGANIZATION, DEMONSTRATION + VERY CLEAR & CLEAN! How about Acetone . . . ? I've seen some people use it and it's supposed to be non-corrosive?
I used electrolysis with a split open coffee can as the sacrificial metal on a 100 year old cast iron skillet. It had thick rust and debris when I found it abandoned in a basement. After 3 hours in solution it came out looking like it was new from the foundry.....an even grey color and not a speck of gunk left! Electrolysis has been my choice ever since.
Does it matter the strength of the power source that you use during electrolysis?
@@kashiefhenry830 I used a 12 V manual battery charger. It can’t be an automatic as they perform differently during electrolysis. I believe I set the amperage at about 6 charging..... positive electrode on the can and negative on the skillet. Within a few minutes you’ll see very small bubbles coming from the cast iron. The sacrificial metal has to “face” the object being cleaned. I split open a large coffee can and faced it towards the skillet. After several hours, I used a fresh coffee can and turned the skillet for the back side treatment. Be careful not to put your hands in the water as it is electrified when the charger is on. The result was 113 year old, rusty, cruddy pan that came out looking gray like it was fresh from the factory!
@@jted68 I am also thinking of starting to learn electrolysis because it seems to be the best cheapest and good choice for any home owner that wants to clean the rust, the only issue is you have to have big enough tank for what you want to clean, if its big item , it means you need big bucket or something, and lots of distilled water which is not that expensive I guess or idk i guess you can use regular water ?
Also how strong does the electric power source need to be, do i need more volts or amps ?
anyways i got few things to learn and since i have to clean some bigger metal things, I might want to invest in big bucket, maybe even big deep plastic thrash can would work since they are not expensive
i need to learn this because cleaning the damn rust with wire brush or electric grinder brush addons just doesnt cut it anymore
Plain white vinegar will have the same effect, if the item is left submerged for several days
I really thought this a project farm video. Thanks for all the hard work on this experiment. You have done everyone proud. I'm proud of you! 👍🏽
Great test. Like the control (untreated). One thing that would be useful, is which is the fastest. If you ever do another one, checking at different intervals would help.
The initial reaction with the sodas was the carbon dioxide dissolved in the soda that "attaches" to the pits in the rust/steel which forms bubbles. This is the identical reaction to the mentos/soda videos from years ago. So yeah, it didn't do much other than outgas the soda. I heard it works great on corroded battery terminals though.
Doesn't work at all on battery terminals. I tried it.
Plain old soda water works great for this
Thanks for this Tim.
One of the rare well done, systematic approaches with a well done video. Nice job, thumbs up.
What was the concentration of the Acetic Acid in the cleaning vinegar that you used? As I've seen it range anywhere from 10% - 30%... and I'm guessing, may even be produced/sold in higher concentrations.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together! It opened my eyes to several different ways to remove rust I didn’t know would work, and the other comments gave me further insight. I appreciate it all!
It should be treated well before rust took place,according to weather,situation &atmosphere
U r eye open right now ?
I have watched several videos on rust removal and was thinking it would be good to have a side by side comparison. Found your post and you had done just that. Looks like you did a very good job. Thanks
Super simple video - very effective, straight to the point - well done 👍
Kool-Aid is pretty potent as well. We used it extensively in the Navy for odds and ends of things, however Kool-Aid worked best on brass for corrosion. It was in the tool bag for some maintenance uses.
Kool Aid is mostly citric acid.
See from 10:20
- *Average:* Evapo-rust; Wd40 rust remover 12h; CLR Calcium Lime 12h; Zep CLR 12h; Vinager 24h; Electrolisysl 8h
- *Excellent:* Oxalid acid (citric): 12h; Muriatic ácid (HCl): 2h
- *Poor:* Coca-Cola/Pepsi
oxalic acid is not citric acid, they are two different chemicals...
what does he use to neutralize the HCL
@@johyw2267 Baking soda works for HCL too.
@@jgizzy Thank you man!
I regret ever using HCL to clean furniture and not wearing gloves
Alot of these processes work well for odd shaped items where sandblasting would not work - IE: sensitive clearance parts such as rusty crankshafts, engine blocks, etc - I am about to try electrolysis on an ARCTIC CAT 500cc free air engine crankshaft/connecting rod assembly that sat underwater for a few weeks. Rusted to the point you could not turn it over with a 4 foot long breaker bar on the crank. I will be removing the crank and rods from the block and removing the flywheel/electronics/clutch but leaving the rods in place. Will know next week how it turns out
Great video thank you. I was surprised by the coca cola result as I personally used it to deduct a 50 year old motorbike gas tank and it came out shiny. It was made from softer metal though.
I have some old tools to restore and was wondering about this very thing! Thanx for the info! 😃
I’m leaning towards evapo rust when bought in a 5 gallon bucket you can use it over and over
And it doesn’t hurt rubber seals its been good to and my projects
But in this I did see a bunch of things work very well
i've tried some of those other methods. i prefer evaporust, not just for the results, but for how easy it is to use. no fumes. won't harm the metal like acids, and you can put your hand in it.
I also like using Evapo-Rust for removing rust from tools and hardware. It works great but it does take longer than some of the other products shown. It also seems to remove any plating, turning some metals black. It is reusable; just drain it and get rid of the residue at the bottom of your soak container.
I was impressed that most of the others worked really well but surprised at the cola results. I thought it worked faster than that by the way people talk about how caustic it is.
I like that Evapo-Rust is safe for kids and animals to be around, in case of a spill (and for the environment too, I guess.) I have been able to restore many different tools that were handed down or got left out in the rain, and also some neat antique hardware I found digging around in my old yard.
I still haven’t figured out how to use it on my vehicles. I didn’t buy that much!! (Imagine trying to DIP a pickup truck!)
@@BrendanSteele you can soak paper towels in evaporust, and then just lay them over the object.
@@alandesgrange9703 U need to wrap then with plastic wrap also
Evapo Rust fir the WIN!
My experience os that using acid based removal leads to early rerusting, even when neutralized with baking soda. For that reason I only use electrolysis. It is very cheap and doesn't remove any metal. Just use a wire brush after to remove any oxides, dry and oil or paint. No early rerusting at all. Whe worst is Muratic acid. Works fast but rerusts fast.
Good to know!!
Does it rerust quickly even after proper surface prep and paint?
@@canwetradenownetwork1241 in my experience, no. I have derusted a few wrenches and things by letting them sit in HCl (muriatic acid) for about 30 minutes, then washing them and immediately oiling them up. Seems to work well and they won’t rust if they’re immediately protected. If you don’t quickly protect it, it can “flash rust” because muriatic acid strips everything off the surface and leaves it open to oxidation again
@@ands246 Muriatic acid works fine with big stuff like wrenches, pliers or hammers. But for springs, screws and other little components, you better use the other rust removers or it'll be brittle by using muriatic
Perfect! Thank You!!!
To keep original paint, I love Oxalic Acid. To strip to bare metal, I go with Citristrip. I really liked the comparison video though! You did a great job standardizing everything.
used on ship hehe
WOW! What a helpful experiment! Thank you!
Ospho is one brand of phosphoric acid that does a great job. I've used it extensively on race cars with no complaint,, especially good in protecting from future corrosion.
Does the Ospho affect any rubber (bushings, seals, ect.)?
Thanks.
Nice job. Saved me lots of time. Thank you for your service sir.
I would have liked for you to run a toothbrush down a strip on each, so we'd also get an idea of how added elbow grease could help, in case a less effective degreaser is always in stock at home, or cheaper, or more environmentally friendly, etc.. Super-helpful video anyway. Thank you.
Didn't even think of that. $6 worth of elbow grease added to $1 worth of product is a tightwad's dream!
He couldn't do that in a way that would be fair to all products as some of these, such as the muriatic acid, are aggressive enough that you do not want to be flecking them around
others such as evaporust can be considered environmentally friendly from certain points of view as it has negligible fumes and smell and is filterable for re-use despite being harmful as a stand alone
I was thinking the same thing but with a wire brush. Part of me wondered if the coke & pepsi ones conditioned the rust and would only need to be wire brushed. Would the rust easily fall off those or not..?
@@bengrogan9710 i feel like you kinda forgot he neutralized the acid before showing the after, in fact its the only way to be fair to all the products because stuff like coke and pepsi just conditions the rust to easily rub off instead of eating it off by itself
Or a tooth pick in the gaps . But seriously a tooth brush what a wombat
Phosphoric acid (used in many sodas, foods, and Naval Jelly) is a great rust remover found in paint departments to prep metal before coating.
Phosphoric acid is a rust converter not remover, it changes rust - Iron oxide into ferric phosphate
@@codenamenel sure does a great job!
I have a molasses tank/s cheap as dirt. Check out numerous vids on utube re molasses. After removal from tank de-rusted items washed clean under tap and then dipped in phosphoric acid solution which holds
item from further rusting for a while and preps for painting.
If you are using Phosphoric make sure to start out with a diluted solution, perhaps 50%. You can always mke it more concentrated by adding small amounts. Please wear nitrile type gloves with eye protection and consider a plastic full apron. Always add Acid to Water.
I had a massive leaking somewhere at the top of the water pump. I was going to use a "Stop Leak" prioduct but wanted as clean of a surface as possible.
I used about 1/2 cup of CLR, refilled the radiator (it's small, 1.5 gals.), drove the car a few blocks. I added more water when I got home so overnight the dripping would allow the CLR to flow through wherever it was going through.
Went out at 8am. VERY little water in the catch pan under the car. Poured that out, watched for dripping but there was NONE, not ONE drop.
Drove a few blocks, parked back home. At 10:15am I went out and the catch pan was DRY!!
I have no idea what the CLR did..... but my car now no longer leaks!! SO weird!
You really need to use a toothbrush or equivalent after using any of the solution based products to peel loose rust off...distilled white vinegar works great..evaporust is also a great product. I've been using both interchangeably. You can reuse evaporust. Just pour it back into a container with a coffee filter to remove loose particles.
Yeah, fair enough, you should use friction to scrub away the rust when you're attempting to de-rust something.
Except this video wasn't actually made for the purpose of portraying how to best de-rust something, it was an experiment strictly to compare the efficiency of each of these methods next to one another.
His intent was to show the effect of each one based on it's own merit alone, without any other variables influencing the results. The method he used was the more accurate way to actually determine how each of the products perform. He really did a great job keeping it just about the properties of the products themselves, which is what we came for.
You have a point, but missed the point. Using a toothbrush or equivalent is adding another element to the process. In short this is called "Elbow grease" which translate to added cost and time. The experiment is what most product users are interested in: apply and go drink a beer while watching the game.
I believe the Citric Acid performed the best.
I was thinking the same thing. I first saw him open the pkg...and was like "you're kidding, right?? But that worked really well. a HECK of a lot more than I would've expected. The electrolysis did well too I thought.
What about the muriatic acid comparison? How did it compare?
Electrolysis
That is a miracle worker. The best the citrus acid
Muriatic acid is faster but more corrosive, must wear gloves every time and hold your breath.
I like regular white vinegar myself, left in a glass for jar for 24 hours, No problems!
Correct
you deserve a thumbs up for spending time doing all that testing.
Thank you for this video.
Looks like Citric acid is the cheapest and most effective solution for the small, spring-loaded hinges I need to clean up.
follow up:
IT WORKED BRILLIANTLY.
24 hours in citric acid solution, neutralise with sodium bicarbonate solution, compressed air dry, spray with WD40 and finally another blow job with the compressed air and wipe to finish.
Thanks again for the video. 10/10
Me surpreendeu o ácido cítrico, até mais eficiente que removedores industrializados
Depois que eu fiz alguns testes, só uso vinagre e bicarbonato de sódio melhor que muitos outros removedores industriais.
Amazingly good video! Everyone who deals with rust needs to watch this :)
I love how you so carefully submerge the springs in the solution, like you’re inserting the fuse into a nuclear bomb 💣 😊
Thanks for this high quality comparative analysis of the effectiveness of various rust removing methods. Can any of those methods be used to remove rust (black colour buildup) in toilets WCs?
one of the good videos video's I have seen during the recent times here is my observation and opinion free to neglect, Muriatic acid is HCL, Vinegar is acetic acid, cocacola and Pepsi has picric acid for taste and helps digestion (americans watch out)(but they do not tell) and abit of carbonic acid like any other soda.
citric acid is lime powder and is edible, washing soda is caustic soda you can clean your drains, is a base ( opposite of acid in reaction,)the spring most probably was galvanised, usually with zinc.
zep. clr and wd 40, Evapo rust. have organic reactant probably with oxygen to forma hydro-Oxide.
I would put my bet on citric acid, safe, non toxic, non hazardous, and inexpensive.
I would like to see a bit of rusted soft springs with the space pitch more in between, will get an idea of how each of them percolates to remove the rust specially to remove rusted nuts and bolts.
or try with liquid Nitrogen. sandblasting is no doubt the best method but you do not have rockets to launch.
I am a hobbyist and not a chemist, and virtually retired.
Very nice explanation. You are absolutely correct about the sodas
Great comment
Thanks sir, you've explained better than my chemist teacher.
From my understanding, the Evaporust is a constructed enzyme that targets iron oxide. I am quite impressed with it, having bought the 32 ounce size, and then the 3 gallon bucket. Gonna buy the 5 gallon next... It really is magical, and no real fumes, either.
@@wombleofwimbledon5442 Sir, is enzyme a living organism that has life and produce checmicals because of its nature?
Most seem to do OK jobs. Vinegar being cheapest is fine. I'm impressed with wd40
I’m impressed with ZEP
I have used deer grade molasses with water for large parts. It takes several days but is the most cost effective for larger items. There are several how to videos on UA-cam.
The second one, citric acid, look the best to me. I wish you could have microscopically noted any pitting. Pitting is a concern when using these on cast iron skillets.
Rustoleum makes a gel that is GREAT
Sonic cleaner
Parts washer
Some of the chemicals in parts washers can remove some rust.
Great video! Sounds like the birds were excited for the reveals too 😄
Best one of these rust removal videos I’ve seen yet and I have watched all of them. Well done.
It was hard to tell and the one that looked the best I didn’t see what it was. But the presentation was great!
Nice video, I was shocked at the results. Keep going!
I just did my fridge door yesterday using CLR - excellent results
Awesome video, thank you!