… would highly recommend after acid wash/etching to reapply the acid, let it set for 5 to 10 minutes keeping it wet then wash areas with clean water and shop air dry completely and to aid use a heat gun … then apply a 2-part sandable primer like SPI because epoxy do not allow the intermolecular transfer of water that a 2 part urethane prime will do … so the epoxy primer is key to your first coat and as a base then build from there … so the take home is you have to neutralize the acid on the surface after the conversion by reactivating it and then completely washing with water to remove it from the metal substrate, dry completely then apply epoxy …. btw: using simple tap water eliminates you having to go out and spend money needlessly on the metal prep gallon ….
ZZZZ can you leave ospho over night? I have some rust in the floor pan seals. I was thinking of pouring it until it pools a bit that way it stays wet and penetrates the seam. Also what do you use for the acid wash? Are you referring to the ospho as an acid wash?
@@jonathanvazquez8076 Yes, you remove any loose rust and material. If your pinching pennies or concerned about the area around the project ( Floors,etc ) you can apply with a paint brush, otherwise a disposable spray bottle is the fastest way to apply ospho which is the acid wash. You let it set for 24 hours, heat helps the conversion process but you dont want to dry it out. After 24 hours spray another light coat of ospho, wait 10 to 20 minutes and rinse off with water. Then dry it in the sun and use a compressor with an air blow gun tip to get tight areas. You can simply paint over it with a good direct to metal paint, however if it's always best to lay a good primer base on anything you want to last a long time like a car.
@@MGarza-ki8fm Yes it can but depending on certain factors epoxy is almost always a better base primer. If you are going to use any bondo after the base primer you must use an epoxy. You can't bondo over self etching. Both will need a solid building primer coat over them and epoxy is much more forgiving to an array of different chemicals where the risk of lifting is much higher with self etching.
I think for all those chunks of rust like you were hitting with the putty knife and wire wheel I would have hit with the wire wheel or a flap disk before the osfo
Agreed. I just wanted to test the Ospho in real world application to see how far it would penetrate. I ended up sand blasting rust away before hitting with primer.
any update on the restoration? I had a 77 bronco once, incidentally, obviously I wish I still did. But, I do have a 68 mustang fastback, and I'm in somewhat the same situation. Prior owner did all kinds of creative coatings, so I'm definitely having to go to bare metal. Been doing the research on Ospho and what Barry recommends, insists on in fact, in how to properly neutralize it before SPI primer. Anyway, would love to read a response from you on how that restoration is going.
Yeah man I hope you rewetted that ospho with ospho and then rinsed it very very well with water and dried it very well. I use SPI Southern polyurethanes Inc , out of Georgia the owner Barry he is always available for me or any one on the phone. Even on Sundays. Somebody got Schaeffer's grease with moly on my epoxy primer over winter. I thought I was screwed and I was told how to remove it by SPI,not a problem. I have watched a video online by some mr fireman guy doing epoxy primer test with Southern polyurethane Inc prouducts. one was with ospho,an not washing it off,and rewetting an water rinse. yes even the SPI epoxy came off easy.once follow though with the proper prep u couldn't get the epoxy off with a air hammer.SO i hope u neutralized an washed it off or bad things may come ur way.the reasone why I i mention Southern polyurethanes inc,is cuz the owner told me about ospho,for my 76 monte hood that has specks of rust from old cracked paint.had to buy a new hood for my restore.
Mike - yes I reapplied and rinsed, per the instructions. Even blew it off with compressed air. The video for that was not entertaining or informative so I did not publish it. This was just an attempt to test if the Ospho penetrated the rust and got it down to the raw metal which it did.
can you put Ospho in a hand sprayer to spray on the underside of truck bed or is that a bad idea? because it will eat threw plastic? yes that's a bad idea! Okay I answered my own question? thanks self! sounds like some wishful thinking to me!
Comes in plastic bottle so shouldn’t be a problem. May eat out the spraying mechanism over time since it is an acid. Just be careful with the spray at you don’t want it getting everywhere or breathing it.
Everything I treated is still solid. All treated areas were primed and painted or primed/Lizardskin/painted and nothing has flaked, cracked or come apart (delaminated). Would use again.
Jo Ta Ospho will ‘melt’ a latex paint brush if left on the bristles long. use a cheaper horsehair brush. seems to not effect plastic containers (it comes in a plastic bottle)
It don't may leave a stain that would be pretty much impossible to remove if it's somewhere gonna be seen. Everyone says this stuff is strong, hell I think the metal prep and etch from Home Depot is alot stronger than this but this is a better pre primer hands down. It's really not that bad of a smell or hard to work with just make sure you wash and neutralize and dry real good. I'm almost to the point of shooting Raptor epoxy primer on my project then going to go over that with a couple coats of Upol high build primer 2K then going to shoot a custom urban camo bedliner and was thinking to do the whole exterior in snow camo Raptor......thoughts?
It will soften and eat your paint and must be washed off before painting!!! It's only a metal preservative UNTIL you are ready to paint and must be washed off. I just love it when I see people remove ALL paint and prepare the metal properly for an Ospho treatment!! WTG !!
Lol... When I saw him talking about putting it on.. then poured it on.. that was my first thought. He didn't read the instructions. Guys that don't, and don't know how to use it always fail with it. Always screw up their paint or primer. Or screw up when they go to primer coat it. Anyway... He learned what not to do with it. The hard way.
Man after watching more you really don't understand what OSPHO does, if you want a perfect smooth finish then get to bear metal and use a etching primer!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually this was a test of rust I could see and get to, so yes I sanded the floor pan smooth and used a self etching primer before spraying. I used Ospho in the seams and body cavity areas to eliminate the rust I could not mechanically get to.
Wrong way to use ospho from the start. As you found out. As many have found out. As someone else said. Read the instructions. First on something like this. Not after... And a note here you might also have found out. Those guys selling product.. 99% don't have experience using products. Listen to them with a bag of salt if at all. Or your libel to be redoing and fixing it again and again and buying stuff that's not right for the job to begin with. Talk to people that actually use the products. That have experience with products and doing what you're trying to do. That have years under their belt. Anyway.. good luck with your restoration. Cheers...
Directions for use were followed for the actual treatment of the vehicle. This video was just to see if Ospho would penetrate and convert the rust, as advertised. It did. I just wanted to see if it worked before doing the whole truck. I have other video footage of the whole vehicle treatment but there was a lot more sanding and body work before that. But applying Ospho over body panels and seams then washing off and finally air blowing it dry were not very video enticing so I never published that. Plus filming yourself rinsing and blow drying a vehicle feels a bit narcissistic. www.ospho.com/directions.htm
… would highly recommend after acid wash/etching to reapply the acid, let it set for 5 to 10 minutes keeping it wet then wash areas with clean water and shop air dry completely and to aid use a heat gun … then apply a 2-part sandable primer like SPI because epoxy do not allow the intermolecular transfer of water that a 2 part urethane prime will do … so the epoxy primer is key to your first coat and as a base then build from there … so the take home is you have to neutralize the acid on the surface after the conversion by reactivating it and then completely washing with water to remove it from the metal substrate, dry completely then apply epoxy …. btw: using simple tap water eliminates you having to go out and spend money needlessly on the metal prep gallon ….
ZZZZ can you leave ospho over night? I have some rust in the floor pan seals. I was thinking of pouring it until it pools a bit that way it stays wet and penetrates the seam. Also what do you use for the acid wash? Are you referring to the ospho as an acid wash?
@@jonathanvazquez8076 Yes, you remove any loose rust and material. If your pinching pennies or concerned about the area around the project ( Floors,etc ) you can apply with a paint brush, otherwise a disposable spray bottle is the fastest way to apply ospho which is the acid wash. You let it set for 24 hours, heat helps the conversion process but you dont want to dry it out. After 24 hours spray another light coat of ospho, wait 10 to 20 minutes and rinse off with water. Then dry it in the sun and use a compressor with an air blow gun tip to get tight areas. You can simply paint over it with a good direct to metal paint, however if it's always best to lay a good primer base on anything you want to last a long time like a car.
@@jeremyg8568 question..
Can etching primer be used after cleaning and washing with water and drying out?
Thank you
@@MGarza-ki8fm Yes it can but depending on certain factors epoxy is almost always a better base primer. If you are going to use any bondo after the base primer you must use an epoxy. You can't bondo over self etching. Both will need a solid building primer coat over them and epoxy is much more forgiving to an array of different chemicals where the risk of lifting is much higher with self etching.
I think for all those chunks of rust like you were hitting with the putty knife and wire wheel I would have hit with the wire wheel or a flap disk before the osfo
Agreed. I just wanted to test the Ospho in real world application to see how far it would penetrate. I ended up sand blasting rust away before hitting with primer.
Hit those rusty grooves with a brass wire wheel. It will make fast work and won't hurt the metal.
This is gonna be a sweet build! I love the patina look on classics. Keep up the good work man!
any update on the restoration? I had a 77 bronco once, incidentally, obviously I wish I still did. But, I do have a 68 mustang fastback, and I'm in somewhat the same situation. Prior owner did all kinds of creative coatings, so I'm definitely having to go to bare metal. Been doing the research on Ospho and what Barry recommends, insists on in fact, in how to properly neutralize it before SPI primer. Anyway, would love to read a response from you on how that restoration is going.
So rinse with water? I tried that and dried it but it still FLASH rusted by morning. What now?
Should have wire wheeled the floor board first...then applied OSPHO.
Yeah man I hope you rewetted that ospho with ospho and then rinsed it very very well with water and dried it very well. I use SPI Southern polyurethanes Inc , out of Georgia the owner Barry he is always available for me or any one on the phone. Even on Sundays. Somebody got Schaeffer's grease with moly on my epoxy primer over winter. I thought I was screwed and I was told how to remove it by SPI,not a problem. I have watched a video online by some mr fireman guy doing epoxy primer test with Southern polyurethane Inc prouducts. one was with ospho,an not washing it off,and rewetting an water rinse. yes even the SPI epoxy came off easy.once follow though with the proper prep u couldn't get the epoxy off with a air hammer.SO i hope u neutralized an washed it off or bad things may come ur way.the reasone why I i mention Southern polyurethanes inc,is cuz the owner told me about ospho,for my 76 monte hood that has specks of rust from old cracked paint.had to buy a new hood for my restore.
Mike W I
Mike - yes I reapplied and rinsed, per the instructions. Even blew it off with compressed air. The video for that was not entertaining or informative so I did not publish it. This was just an attempt to test if the Ospho penetrated the rust and got it down to the raw metal which it did.
@@risingphoenixbronco5328 how is this holding up now?
can you put Ospho in a hand sprayer to spray on the underside of truck bed or is that a bad idea? because it will eat threw plastic? yes that's a bad idea! Okay I answered my own question? thanks self! sounds like some wishful thinking to me!
Comes in plastic bottle so shouldn’t be a problem. May eat out the spraying mechanism over time since it is an acid. Just be careful with the spray at you don’t want it getting everywhere or breathing it.
The instructions read "Clean treated surface with a solvent before painting."
What are your long-term reviews how's that ospho holding up?
Everything I treated is still solid. All treated areas were primed and painted or primed/Lizardskin/painted and nothing has flaked, cracked or come apart (delaminated). Would use again.
@@risingphoenixbronco5328 ok, thank you.
This may have been a good video, but once that music started I had to leave.
Looking good! Agree with Wildhorses, love that Patina!
What happens if you get some of this stuff on rubber or plastic?1
Jo Ta Ospho will ‘melt’ a latex paint brush if left on the bristles long. use a cheaper horsehair brush. seems to not effect plastic containers (it comes in a plastic bottle)
It don't may leave a stain that would be pretty much impossible to remove if it's somewhere gonna be seen. Everyone says this stuff is strong, hell I think the metal prep and etch from Home Depot is alot stronger than this but this is a better pre primer hands down. It's really not that bad of a smell or hard to work with just make sure you wash and neutralize and dry real good. I'm almost to the point of shooting Raptor epoxy primer on my project then going to go over that with a couple coats of Upol high build primer 2K then going to shoot a custom urban camo bedliner and was thinking to do the whole exterior in snow camo Raptor......thoughts?
It will soften and eat your paint and must be washed off before painting!!! It's only a metal preservative UNTIL you are ready to paint and must be washed off. I just love it when I see people remove ALL paint and prepare the metal properly for an Ospho treatment!! WTG !!
Read the label.
Lol... When I saw him talking about putting it on.. then poured it on.. that was my first thought. He didn't read the instructions.
Guys that don't, and don't know how to use it always fail with it. Always screw up their paint or primer. Or screw up when they go to primer coat it.
Anyway... He learned what not to do with it. The hard way.
Man after watching more you really don't understand what OSPHO does, if you want a perfect smooth finish then get to bear metal and use a etching primer!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually this was a test of rust I could see and get to, so yes I sanded the floor pan smooth and used a self etching primer before spraying. I used Ospho in the seams and body cavity areas to eliminate the rust I could not mechanically get to.
He’s a dumb ass. Shouldn’t be making videos
>>bear metal
Wrong way to use ospho from the start. As you found out. As many have found out.
As someone else said. Read the instructions. First on something like this. Not after...
And a note here you might also have found out. Those guys selling product.. 99% don't have experience using products. Listen to them with a bag of salt if at all.
Or your libel to be redoing and fixing it again and again and buying stuff that's not right for the job to begin with.
Talk to people that actually use the products. That have experience with products and doing what you're trying to do. That have years under their belt.
Anyway.. good luck with your restoration.
Cheers...
Directions for use were followed for the actual treatment of the vehicle. This video was just to see if Ospho would penetrate and convert the rust, as advertised. It did. I just wanted to see if it worked before doing the whole truck.
I have other video footage of the whole vehicle treatment but there was a lot more sanding and body work before that. But applying Ospho over body panels and seams then washing off and finally air blowing it dry were not very video enticing so I never published that. Plus filming yourself rinsing and blow drying a vehicle feels a bit narcissistic.
www.ospho.com/directions.htm
Ospho is phosphoric acid.
You poor guy!
wtf kind of restoration is that?