I've been running the Chinesium knock off 60T star ratchets in both my bike and my sons bike for 2 years with no wear or failure issues. it's the gold colored version from Ali Express. Do have 2 spares for the day they finally do give out. I do routinely pull them apart every few months and grease them to ensure they don't run dry, and keeps them quieter.
I got a spank 359 rear wheel with a spank hex drive hub and I am in love with it. The last hub I had had 11 degrees of engagement and the spank hex hub has 3.5 degrees of engagement and when I first rode it it it was a slight learning curve having that faster engagement plus it just sounds so much better and louder
I've done this to some of my 350s, and even to a set of 370s that I converted from 3 pawl to star ratchet. I dig it on the mtb. I have a 3 pawl DT road hub on my gravel bike, and while I am using it as a road bike, the 3-pawl.s low engagement is no big deal.
“More limited than an E-biker’s ability to ride during a power outage” 😆😆😆 I have a set of dt’s with the 54t on my Ripley still rockin. My 21’ Rallon came with RF NextR Vault hubs and they’ve held up perfectly.
Now since I have worn out the 18T one. I have some questions. Some sets come with some sort of spacer which fits between bearing and a spring (on a freehub side). Some sets seems to have one part of a ratchet screw in and the other a loose one, just like both of yours in this video. How do I proceed?
The real crime is if you have one of their pawl hubs you want to upgrade to ratchet. They don’t sell a conversion kit with the 54t. So you have to get the conversion kit with a lower engagement ratchet that you’re going to throw in the trash and buy a 54t.
and people are still buying all the goods anyway. Confounding how much more $ they must be making. I just semi-upgraded to the 24T ratchet from 18T cause it comes with the grease. That ratchet with the "special" grease wasn't much more than buying the price gouged grease alone.
I went to the 24T from the 18T. There is a bit of noticeable improvement, so 36T would probably be huge and enough after 18T. It does feel weird for some strange reason that the special grease came in a tube, after seeing more pics online of the tub. I did find out that the tube has the exact same grease as the tub though.
there's a really sick hub based on the star ratchet type drive; this design is normally confined to around 6 POE, but qvist has gone up to 120. check out the design if you have the time, it's really mechanically clever!
I just subscribed to their newsletter. I just hope they keep their price reasonable. Otherwise, they'll be like 5DEV for the crank industry. Although my 5DEV is being shipped today. Can't wait!
I've bought into the DT Swiss world on my fatbike. Trying 36t on DT350s in case the big torque and low temps in winter cause some grief. Seems that if the star ratchet strips it's at least just ring replacements and not a ratchet ring like on pawled designs. I like it!
ALL rear hubs have examples of problems- I've heard of blown freehubs from DT, I9, Onyx, Hope, literally, ALL brands have some hub out somewhere that's broken. That said, the DT is really easy to fix should it have an issue. I am blown away at how good the I9 stuff has been over the years, but the DT stuff is also top tier. Enjoy your fat biking this winter!!!
@@JeffKendallWeed Thanks man! For real though, I've blown multiple Nukeproof Horizon (Novatec), SunRingle, Hope, and Shimano freehub bodies. Some my fault, others were just random. Currently running I9 101s (excellent!) and now these DT Swiss ratchet rings. My wheels have gotten progressively more expensive but hopefully more reliable...
@@mbgfishing341 The Hybrid Hubs usually have the ratchet system with 18 POE, so you only need the 36t or 54t upgrade kit. If you want to be sure, just take a look inside the freehub to see if these ratchet rings are installed. It's something you can check pretty quickly.
@@mbgfishing341 The Hybrid Hubs usually have the ratchet system with 18 POE, so you only need the 36t or 54t upgrade kit. If you want to be sure, just take a look inside the freehub to see if these ratchet rings are installed. It's something you can check pretty quickly.
I' not sure if I put the spring in wrong, I did not think I did, but might have, but as I remember it I did not, but if not put on as intended it will cause misalignment, but I think I did it right, still got stuck, I had to use a screw driver to loosen it, in the freehub once when i took the freehub off, but during sub zero temps the ratchet dis engaged some times, was not sure why. Not sure what's going on, currently I've been using Weldtite Wet Extreme lube instead of the DT Swiss Special grease, will see how that does. Not sure if the grease just got too thick. But did not happen since, so far good luck. will see how it goes. A think I don't like is you have to use a special too. to remove ratchet ring to remove the bearings. But I'm keen to try quicker engagement.
Hahaha those are sweet!!! I just remember they were always a little bit loose… and that they were always outta my budget! So cool that they make every single part at HQ in Portland!
Technically that makes zero sense, quicker the engagement, further you travel in each pedal stroke. But maybe you mean during coasting, less teeth means less drag I guess. But for me drag won't change much, I can't stand any worse engagement than the Hope Pro 4 had, that's my limit, less and it will feel like too much play and hear that banging sound more often. I noticed I was faster even it was just maybe 2 deg or something, but I'm keen to try even faster engagement.
I can't say for certain, but if you're only cutting a few teeth, it's faster for the machine to make. The more cuts, the more manufacturing time, the more $$$.
I like to use original parts, but it's too expensive for what it is. Ordered a 3rd-party 60t ratchet kit for a fraction of the price. Don't think the difference in the price represents the difference in the quality.
many of the 3rd party 60t are actually steel instead of the DT Swiss aluminum, so you might be getting even better longevity for a fraction of the price (and an extra 6 POE)!
@@enzochoi923 Yep, that's what I've heard. Which might eliminate the potential issues people have with the original part, that is propably also made in China, but it's the "DT Swiss" price tag we're paying for.
Holy cow that is expensive for the tiny product. I thought it was going to be around $30-50. Then click on the link and it’s $130! Wow. But on the bright side still love your videos.
Speccng a 54t freehub on a complete bike would mean consumers would buy a different complete bike that's cheaper. Since it's invisible, it's not seen as value, and quickly gets overlooked.
I'm real heavy and ride like a single speeder. I was worried. An guy broke it down on a mtb page. Surface area. If the machining is perfect, there is the same surface area taking the load. A lot of then fail from dust and too much grease not allowing them to mesh fully and then they are extremely weak.
Eh. It's not quite so 1:1 as you suppose. Smaller teeth might seem "weaker" but you get many more engaging so the stress load per tooth is spread more evenly, reducing stress hot spots in the metal.
I dislike DT swiss as a company for these kinds of practices. You get stuck with a dt swiss 370 hub equipped on a new bike, sometimes even on bikes that cost 7k. These hubs have fewer points of engagement than a Walmart bike. forcing you to "upgrade" to what should have just come standard. The cost of manufacturing difference between these two ratchets was almost certainly disgustingly low, yet they gouge you for 170 cad to make your new bike usable. it feels like a software locked feature on a car. Buy the third party star ratchet.
Eric, you're misunderstanding the situation. DT has all options available to it's OEM customers. It's the bike brands that choose what to spec on a complete bike. It's a bad choice with product spec to use either the 18 or 54t OEM. Brands are trying really hard to hit the lowest complete bike price they can. Spending the extra $$$ on a hidden part that's easily overlooked would price the bike beyond the competition, and would result in fewer bike sales. Price wise, it's more than a simple ~$100 retail upcharge, as they need to bring enough expensive 54t ratchets to the assembly factory, and that's one more SKU to keep track of. Everything gets much more complicated, and only to result in a less competitive product. It's capitalism, and perceived value matters more than all else. This is why so many bikes come with lame EXO casing tires, too.
@@JeffKendallWeed I certainly might be, and I don't think bike brands are completely innocent. I haven't seen oem spec 370's with anything but an 18t. Do you have insider knowledge that bike brands are the ones actually choosing the 18t ratchet? because it seems like they offer the m 1900 set, among others, cheaply to bike brands with the expectation that everyone will then need to upgrade and they'll make up more than what they had to undercut. I don't think the logistics/SKU inflating the cost that makes sense. It plays a role, but if it cost that much they should simply streamline and make something people wanted instead of an 18t ratchet. even the 36t would be considered a rather good oem hub. but they'd rather intentionally hinder their product to a degree that it's hardly useable, and then upcharge you an inflated cost to fix it. and they can because building a new wheel would be even more expensive. They've got you locked in, and It's super skeezy. EXO casings are another example, but those are at least in theory useful to somebody, and keep the product weight down. you're also not tied in to having to buy another maxxis product to fix it.
I did this upgrade a few months back. It’s the best $100 I’ve spent for such a big improvement. Serious bang for the buck.
I've been running the Chinesium knock off 60T star ratchets in both my bike and my sons bike for 2 years with no wear or failure issues. it's the gold colored version from Ali Express. Do have 2 spares for the day they finally do give out. I do routinely pull them apart every few months and grease them to ensure they don't run dry, and keeps them quieter.
Glad to hear they're holding up well. I'm about to purchase one to reduce total costs on my next mtb build.
I love your riding style. Manual everything everywhere. So cool.
I got a spank 359 rear wheel with a spank hex drive hub and I am in love with it. The last hub I had had 11 degrees of engagement and the spank hex hub has 3.5 degrees of engagement and when I first rode it it it was a slight learning curve having that faster engagement plus it just sounds so much better and louder
DT-Swiss 350 hubs are the Toyota Tacoma of mtb hubs. Not the flashiest or highest performance but extremely reliable and practical.
I have the 370 hub 24T Ratchet LN and I'm happy with that as well.
I've done this to some of my 350s, and even to a set of 370s that I converted from 3 pawl to star ratchet. I dig it on the mtb. I have a 3 pawl DT road hub on my gravel bike, and while I am using it as a road bike, the 3-pawl.s low engagement is no big deal.
I did this upgrade on my 21 GG Megatrail. Best wheelset upgrade ever made.
I love how this upgrade is completely toolless. How often does that happen?
Damn, I was thinking on upgrading my hubs to higher engagement and you just saved me a lot of money.
It's easy and not that spendy!
This upgrade has made my 370s so much better
Yeah it definitely feels better!
I was skeptical about the cost of this upgrade but it's been worth every penny- thoroughly enjoying the faster engagement on techy climbs!
Just put this upgrade on my new bike, worth every penny
“More limited than an E-biker’s ability to ride during a power outage” 😆😆😆
I have a set of dt’s with the 54t on my Ripley still rockin. My 21’ Rallon came with RF NextR Vault hubs and they’ve held up perfectly.
Now since I have worn out the 18T one. I have some questions. Some sets come with some sort of spacer which fits between bearing and a spring (on a freehub side). Some sets seems to have one part of a ratchet screw in and the other a loose one, just like both of yours in this video. How do I proceed?
Really cool video . An actual useful cheap upgrade kit
Thanks for watching- yea this is a lot more cost effective than a whole new wheelset!
Shame on DT Swiss for not making this a default ratchet. 20° of engagement on the DT 1900 wheels is shameful when it can be easily mitigated.
@@LenserExactly. The manufacturer cost is the same. The MSRP is not.
The real crime is if you have one of their pawl hubs you want to upgrade to ratchet. They don’t sell a conversion kit with the 54t. So you have to get the conversion kit with a lower engagement ratchet that you’re going to throw in the trash and buy a 54t.
and people are still buying all the goods anyway. Confounding how much more $ they must be making. I just semi-upgraded to the 24T ratchet from 18T cause it comes with the grease. That ratchet with the "special" grease wasn't much more than buying the price gouged grease alone.
I want to get that upgrade kit. I just ordered the Canyon Spectral 125 CF8. It comes with DT Swiss wheels and the hubs have 36 POE.
I went to the 24T from the 18T. There is a bit of noticeable improvement, so 36T would probably be huge and enough after 18T.
It does feel weird for some strange reason that the special grease came in a tube, after seeing more pics online of the tub. I did find out that the tube has the exact same grease as the tub though.
Awesome video
there's a really sick hub based on the star ratchet type drive; this design is normally confined to around 6 POE, but qvist has gone up to 120. check out the design if you have the time, it's really mechanically clever!
I just subscribed to their newsletter. I just hope they keep their price reasonable. Otherwise, they'll be like 5DEV for the crank industry.
Although my 5DEV is being shipped today. Can't wait!
What a sweet video! My new canyon spectral has a sloppy rear dt Swiss hub… i need this upgrade!
I'd be sure you have good tires first, but after that, this would be a great upgrade.
@@JeffKendallWeed GREAT call. I’m a bit heavy for the exo casings
I did a 54t conversion on my dt swiss 370 but it’s still not as loud as the ones that I see on line. Is there any tips to make it louder.
Yes, ride it more! As the grease wears, it gets louder- and smoother.
Thank you for the video, but it would have been very helpful to show how much grease you applied
I've bought into the DT Swiss world on my fatbike. Trying 36t on DT350s in case the big torque and low temps in winter cause some grief. Seems that if the star ratchet strips it's at least just ring replacements and not a ratchet ring like on pawled designs. I like it!
ALL rear hubs have examples of problems- I've heard of blown freehubs from DT, I9, Onyx, Hope, literally, ALL brands have some hub out somewhere that's broken. That said, the DT is really easy to fix should it have an issue. I am blown away at how good the I9 stuff has been over the years, but the DT stuff is also top tier. Enjoy your fat biking this winter!!!
@@JeffKendallWeed Thanks man! For real though, I've blown multiple Nukeproof Horizon (Novatec), SunRingle, Hope, and Shimano freehub bodies. Some my fault, others were just random. Currently running I9 101s (excellent!) and now these DT Swiss ratchet rings. My wheels have gotten progressively more expensive but hopefully more reliable...
Love your videos. Can you please test a Sanda Cruz Bronson? Would be really nice.
Thanks Lando! I've tried to borrow a Bronson, but came up empty handed... Maybe one day!
Hi Jeff. I have the DT swiss 370 hybrid hubs. Can I upgrade it or should I buy new hubs for louder hub?
Works 👍🏼
@cudi7 you mean, I can just buy ratchets and replace the old ones?
@@mbgfishing341 The Hybrid Hubs usually have the ratchet system with 18 POE, so you only need the 36t or 54t upgrade kit. If you want to be sure, just take a look inside the freehub to see if these ratchet rings are installed. It's something you can check pretty quickly.
@@mbgfishing341 The Hybrid Hubs usually have the ratchet system with 18 POE, so you only need the 36t or 54t upgrade kit. If you want to be sure, just take a look inside the freehub to see if these ratchet rings are installed. It's something you can check pretty quickly.
I' not sure if I put the spring in wrong, I did not think I did, but might have, but as I remember it I did not, but if not put on as intended it will cause misalignment, but I think I did it right, still got stuck, I had to use a screw driver to loosen it, in the freehub once when i took the freehub off, but during sub zero temps the ratchet dis engaged some times, was not sure why. Not sure what's going on, currently I've been using Weldtite Wet Extreme lube instead of the DT Swiss Special grease, will see how that does. Not sure if the grease just got too thick. But did not happen since, so far good luck. will see how it goes.
A think I don't like is you have to use a special too. to remove ratchet ring to remove the bearings. But I'm keen to try quicker engagement.
How does it compare to a i9 torch from 9 or so years ago. I believe 3 degrees of engagement or raceface vault. I have both.
I thought about this upgrade some time ago. Decided I don’t ride enough techy climbs to justify the cost unfortunately
Hahaha fair! I'd be sure I have good tires first, but dollar for dollar, this is a great upgrade.
I know you're an I9 guy Jeff....but I absolutely LOVE my Chris King.......bzzzzzzzzzzzzz🐝
Hahaha those are sweet!!! I just remember they were always a little bit loose… and that they were always outta my budget! So cool that they make every single part at HQ in Portland!
I know you probably won’t see this Jeff but can you please do a video where you tell us your settings on a fox 38
can you get parts for other brand hubs?
So expensive. I bought the Fovno 60t one only cost me 20$. Been using it for more than a year no problem
went from 18 to 54 and eventhough i like the sound of the 54, the 18 just feels faster.
i do 18t for road and 54t for mtb
Technically that makes zero sense, quicker the engagement, further you travel in each pedal stroke. But maybe you mean during coasting, less teeth means less drag I guess. But for me drag won't change much, I can't stand any worse engagement than the Hope Pro 4 had, that's my limit, less and it will feel like too much play and hear that banging sound more often. I noticed I was faster even it was just maybe 2 deg or something, but I'm keen to try even faster engagement.
why is it so expensive?
So DT Swiss can make more money when you buy the upgrade kit.
I can't say for certain, but if you're only cutting a few teeth, it's faster for the machine to make. The more cuts, the more manufacturing time, the more $$$.
Machining time cost money.
@@JeffKendallWeed curious if you've experienced any slippage at all w/ the 54?
Bro pls suggest budget bikes for poor people
Go on the second hand market and, and check bike reviews and which experiences people had.
I like to use original parts, but it's too expensive for what it is. Ordered a 3rd-party 60t ratchet kit for a fraction of the price. Don't think the difference in the price represents the difference in the quality.
many of the 3rd party 60t are actually steel instead of the DT Swiss aluminum, so you might be getting even better longevity for a fraction of the price (and an extra 6 POE)!
@@enzochoi923 Yep, that's what I've heard. Which might eliminate the potential issues people have with the original part, that is propably also made in China, but it's the "DT Swiss" price tag we're paying for.
Link?
Holy cow that is expensive for the tiny product. I thought it was going to be around $30-50. Then click on the link and it’s $130! Wow.
But on the bright side still love your videos.
Thanks Guy! Yeah I have no idea where and how it's made, but more teeth, especially smaller ones, will certainly take longer to cut.
Manufacturing those parts isn't exactly easy, not if you want very accurate, durable, and finely detailed parts.
The companies know how to make us pay to upgrade every part bit by bit
Speccng a 54t freehub on a complete bike would mean consumers would buy a different complete bike that's cheaper. Since it's invisible, it's not seen as value, and quickly gets overlooked.
@@JeffKendallWeed yeah, you are right about thag
What!
Unsure of this upgrade. Smaller teeth with more engagement is also far weaker. Have heard of these failing with the 54t.
Bro, I weigh 240 and mash like a godamned Clydesdale! Regardless of what you’ve “heard”, I’ve had zero problems! 😎 best of luck👍
I'm real heavy and ride like a single speeder. I was worried. An guy broke it down on a mtb page. Surface area. If the machining is perfect, there is the same surface area taking the load. A lot of then fail from dust and too much grease not allowing them to mesh fully and then they are extremely weak.
@@coltonyoung6392 Sounds like a bunch of horseshit to me! “Fail from dust” WTAF?!!!😆😎 I literally have 3 bros riding dt 54t wheels with ZERO problems.
Eh. It's not quite so 1:1 as you suppose. Smaller teeth might seem "weaker" but you get many more engaging so the stress load per tooth is spread more evenly, reducing stress hot spots in the metal.
@@exothermal.sprocket What he said! 😎👍
I dislike DT swiss as a company for these kinds of practices. You get stuck with a dt swiss 370 hub equipped on a new bike, sometimes even on bikes that cost 7k. These hubs have fewer points of engagement than a Walmart bike. forcing you to "upgrade" to what should have just come standard. The cost of manufacturing difference between these two ratchets was almost certainly disgustingly low, yet they gouge you for 170 cad to make your new bike usable. it feels like a software locked feature on a car.
Buy the third party star ratchet.
Eric, you're misunderstanding the situation. DT has all options available to it's OEM customers. It's the bike brands that choose what to spec on a complete bike. It's a bad choice with product spec to use either the 18 or 54t OEM. Brands are trying really hard to hit the lowest complete bike price they can. Spending the extra $$$ on a hidden part that's easily overlooked would price the bike beyond the competition, and would result in fewer bike sales. Price wise, it's more than a simple ~$100 retail upcharge, as they need to bring enough expensive 54t ratchets to the assembly factory, and that's one more SKU to keep track of. Everything gets much more complicated, and only to result in a less competitive product. It's capitalism, and perceived value matters more than all else. This is why so many bikes come with lame EXO casing tires, too.
@@JeffKendallWeed I certainly might be, and I don't think bike brands are completely innocent. I haven't seen oem spec 370's with anything but an 18t. Do you have insider knowledge that bike brands are the ones actually choosing the 18t ratchet?
because it seems like they offer the m 1900 set, among others, cheaply to bike brands with the expectation that everyone will then need to upgrade and they'll make up more than what they had to undercut.
I don't think the logistics/SKU inflating the cost that makes sense. It plays a role, but if it cost that much they should simply streamline and make something people wanted instead of an 18t ratchet. even the 36t would be considered a rather good oem hub. but they'd rather intentionally hinder their product to a degree that it's hardly useable, and then upcharge you an inflated cost to fix it. and they can because building a new wheel would be even more expensive. They've got you locked in, and It's super skeezy.
EXO casings are another example, but those are at least in theory useful to somebody, and keep the product weight down. you're also not tied in to having to buy another maxxis product to fix it.
Just remember to take it apart and re-grease every few months or it'll lock up. Horrible design.
Short and greasy, just like that tube...
Way too overpriced