Is there a limit on forces one may apply by turning the wheel left to remove the ring nut? Specifically with regards to a carbon rim. Is there an alternate method for loosening if the rim is carbon? Should two people be torquing that hard on a carbon wheel?
Hi Thank you for your question. We don't have a maximum torque for loosen the ringnut. It's related to the torque the rider put on the nut while using the wheel. Sometimes we use as well two people, which is helpful as well to keep the turning direction aligned. A wheel which is build in a proper way should not get affected. As you maybe can imagine, the torque of a strong rider combined with gear reduction on a strong climb will put much more torque on the components while riding. Friso "DT Swiss".
So I'm still trying to remove the ringnut @4:00. I cranked with both arms counterclockwise and stopped out of concern of breaking spokes from the torque. I'm not impressed with this design. Thanks dt swiss. Anyone recommend another better hub system?
Was able to free it up by spraying the ring drive nut with Finish Line Chill Zone for 15 seconds. Needed more force, but it cracked free. Don't know if it was the extra force or the FLCZ spray or both. 🖖
Just did mine and this video was a great help, thanks! I have a couple of tips that people might find useful: 1. If the splined ring is proving difficult to get off (mine was rotating the spline tool in the vise!) then try heading the hub with a heat gun on high for a few minutes. You won't damage anything and my splined ring came out without too much effort after that. 2. When it comes to installing the first bearing (non drive side) I used the bearing seating tool and a piece of threaded rod, a large washer and some nuts. The bearing seating tool goes on the bearing, the washer goes on the drive side of the hub and the threaded rod connects the two. Then by tightening the nuts the bearing is pulled into the hub perfectly parallel. I've never been able to pound bearings in straight, they always cock in the bore, so this makes it allot easier. The rest was a dream after that.
The first bearing MUST be the DRIVE SIDE! The axle provides the spacing of the bearings, NOT the hub flanges. The drive side shall be seated until the flange inside the hub and the non drive accordingly in the correct distance by inserting the axle, providing correct spacing.
Good job DT Swiss. This is, hands down, the best hub overhaul video I have viewed for a product I own. No cheesy background music, great video quality, clear stop action shots, well explained and I appreciate the attention to detail, i.e. emphasizing the importance of which direction certain small parts must be assembled. Other manufacturers could take some lessons from this, eh hum....Chris King.
I have the 240s hubs (pre 2020)....and clearly remember being told by DT Swiss they were 'easy to service'. My campy bora wheel hubs can be serviced with basic tools in 15 mins, but the DTS 240 hubs require £100's worth of tools. Anything but easy to service.
Good content for a pro mechanic. I wish DT Swiss would do a “beginner” video for those of us that don’t understand the lingo and don’t have a big vice to work with, etc.
But it's not exactly a "beginner" job. I don't really see what else they could do to make this more dumbed down. You can buy a clamp mounted vice for cheap online
I had problems getting the freehub body off the axle because it had seized to the axle. Got it out by tapping on the axle shown in other UA-cam videos. That fix might be a good addition to this video.
Hi, Thank you for this video it was realy helpfull. I only want to know from you guys, how you know the difference between A "350" and the "240" Hubs ? I mean they are the same, specially in some hubs with dt swiss internals like the "Roval" or "sram".
The only special tool you really need is the ring nut removal tool, for the rest you can easily improvise with sockets, washers, a length of threaded rod etc. Just remember to seat the drive side bearing first as this then aligns all that follows to its correct spacing, & do use the threaded rod bearing press method, rather than hammering on bearings, even if it is only on the outer race.
Ancora complimenti vivissimi. In un video non parlate, in questo video riprendete tutto da 10 metri, tant'è che per vedere cosa fa il meccanico serve un monitore da 80 pollici. Vi serve un buon regista.
I replaced the bearings in my 240 rear hub. However the main hub bearings run notchy and resisitant from new. They are DT Swiss bearings and the correct size and seated correctly. Any ideas why?
Thanks for sharing, just, I haven't got a vise, and haven't got anywhere to put it if I buy one, so I wonder if there's a way to do this without, maybe an idea for a future video....? ;- ) ;- ) ;- ) - And happy new year....!!!
your new-ish exp hub is a bear to do a bearing service on. unlike the previous 240s where you had that ring gear and the tool would sit very firmly in place the exp has MUCH smaller teeth. the previous vice method no longer worked. i'm even a reasonably strong guy and could not get enough leverage before the tool popped out. in the end it took a long bolt through the tool and hub to cinch it in place. a 15" adjustable wrench and 4ft pipe on said wrench. put the pipe under the bench and rolled the wheel toward me using that giant lever for torque. finally came free and i was able to change the one crunchy bearing. other 3 bearings are fine and i half wonder if that bearing is getting compressed as the ring tightens causing some type of deflection. anyone else have the bearing in the ratchet fail more frequently than the others?
I thought The 350 used pawl engagement. I always avoided them because of this mistaken assumption. I pretty sure some 350’s are pawl engagements. Star ratchet just seems so simple and easy a system, besides being lightweight and bombproof. Unfortunately, I can’t use the system on my 2007 Mavic slr’s, but the weight and strength of the complete wheel make up for the slack pawl engagement.
Best instruction film ever. I har CR 1600 wheels, is it same process to change bearings as in video? Is it possible to change bearings in the free hub or just buy a new complete free hub with bearings included when its time for service?
Hi Peter, the CR 1600 wheel set is based on the 350 hub and the process is the same. We don't service freehub bodies, they are only available as entire piece with or without the right side end cap. Best regards, José, DT Swiss
Thanks for the video. Can you tell if you need to remove the hub-seal/ring-nut if only the inner axle is to be replaced? Or can it just be hammered out? Fyi, it broke inside the hub.
Hi dt swiss.. i want to change my old bearing. Can you tell the size of bearing for dt swiss XR1501 spline one 29 ? I can't find on your manual instruction. For front hub, i use 100 x TA15mm and 135 x 10mm for the rear. Is the mechanism to remove the bearing, same with this video ? Need your advice. Thank tou
Do you have a link or part number(s) to a tool kit, or the tools needed for a 2021 (newest version) 350 rear boost/CL/J-Bens/XD hub? Also, still 6902s?
smart move to tell people to remove both bearings. if you dont have the original kit, its hard to get a bearing back in if both are out. remove one bearing, keep one in. then install the new bearing and continue with removing the second old bearing and then install the last new bearing
I have DT wheels on a brand new bike. Changing a flat the wheel fell over and the Hub fell apart. Ratchets and springs landed in the dirt. And after watching this video it looks like the Hub was designed to do that. So TT hubs are practically not usable, they fall apart anytime the wheel falls over.
Can you please advise parts numbers for hub bearings that should be installed in a 240s hub? Are they both the same? I’m currently researching this and DT Swiss have advised there are two different bearings that go into the hub shell and bike shops are saying the same model for each bearing (2 x in hub shell). Thanks.
Hi, thank you for your comment. The 240 hub is for more than 20 years in the portfolio of DT Swiss. In this time we offered multiple versions. There are three possibilities, to get the details about the bearings in your hub: 1. Remove the bearings to check on the outside the bearingtype, the numbers are standardized worldwide 2. Use our product support tool ( www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support ) to identify your hub, so you will see there the correct bearing types. 3. Get in contact with one of our service centers ( www.dtswiss.com/en/support/contact ), they are able to identify with the serial number of the hub, the bearings being used in your hub.
I've got a ex1750 n'duro hub. I assume when using that splined adapter nut I turn left, counter clockwise as well? I broke a vise doing this so far... I really did!!
Hello @DtSwiss this is a common question I guess; I love my DTSwiss 350 Hubs (front and rear) but I would like to change the bearings to SincCeramic so my question is: Can you tell me the size of the bearings I need for DTSwiss Front and for the Rear Hub? I've contacted support via email but they only told me to find the bearing size and purchase them separately. Can you guys help me? Thank you! Great video!
I see that you use the red star ratchet grease on the inner faces of the star, but id didn't see you use any grease on the outside of the star ratchets (or the inner faces of the mating surfaces on the free hub body or hub shell). Do you not use any grease on those surfaces? Thanks-
on the newer 240s there seem to be no grove for the drive side washer. also, there was no grease (or anti seize) on the star nut on my brand new dt wheel. good think i checked. it already made a unseizing sound when i removed it (and greased it). I had a dt240s ungreased like this and removing the star nut after 2 years of riding was extremely hard
Hi there Thank you for purchasing one of our products. Regarding your question, I think you're Talking about the ringnut, which is screwed in the hubshell. As you can see in our Manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf We do not use grease to mount the ringnut. We do know that it is sometimes hard to disassemble, but it will not change if grease is used. When you're Talking about the washer on the drive side, you mean the endcap? There should be a groove on the drive side but there is no one on the non drive side. If you think there is a Problem with your hub, please get in contact with one our service centers ( a list can be found on our Website ). Have a nice day, Friso, "DT Swiss".
So I'm still trying to remove the ringnut @4:00. I cranked with both arms counterclockwise and stopped out of concern as I both heard and felt the spokes flexing from the torque. I'm not impressed with this design. Thanks dt swiss. Anyone recommend another better hub system?
Great video. What would be the symptoms of hub needing a full service like this? My dtswiss 350 on a Roval c38 seems to not spin smoothly or as freely as comparison bikes. The bike has only done less than 2000km. Freewheeling it doesn't get many rotations, and backpedaling where freewheeling slows the wheel. When pedaling forward, compared to other bikes, it also doesn't rotate as many times. I'm wondering if when the bike was built the dealer mechanic installed something wrong, didn't use the right grease or something else?
Hi Gerard, I would suggest to contact your LBS in order to have the hub serviced. Of course you could also do it by yourself. I can't judge from here if there was a mistake made by your mechanic. Kind regards, Christian, DT Swiss
Hi ! Before unmounting my Syncros wheels, i would like to know if it's the same process for 370 rear hub and 350 front hub ? Could you tell me if the Dynamic High Performance Grease makes the job right for these bearings instead of the DT Swiss star ratchet grease ?Is the assembly grease could be the one of Shimano ? Thanks a lot for this video. Thomas
Hi, we assume you did remove the thread ring in front of the bearing. In case you have the hub only it may help is to put it into the freezer for a while and the try again with hammer and axle. In the worst case the hub Shell must be replaced. Best regards Kai
I can't seem to find any info about servicing the DT Swiss 350 front hub. Mine have developed a squeaking sound, and I would like to grease them. Is the process similar for removing the end caps?
Hi Adam, first of all make sure the QR or thru axle is firmly tightened. There is no greasing needed since there are no touching parts besides the bearings but those can be replaced with the according tools. Here is the link to the manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000861S/MAN_WXD10000000861S_WEB_EN_002.pdf Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
@@dtswiss I actually found it in this section 4.1.5 Maintenance of the Front Wheel Hub [350 Thru Axle] on your "HUBS TECHNICAL MANUAL RATCHET " manual. Kinda buried in there a ways. (dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf)
My ring nut is solid in the assembly, it just will not budge! Very tight. I'd read that trying to heat it up a little might help but I'm unsure if it's okay to do that. I tried all else in terms of passively trying to unscrew it. Stuck. Help anyone?
Hi, Thanks for the Video. do i really need to upgrade from 18 to 36T or 54T on my FFWDF6R 240s allow carbon chincher wheels, whats the real gain here? Used on a road bike.
Not necessary. The difference is hub engagement. Take 360 degrees in a circle and divide by number of teeth. For 18t, that's 20 degrees, which means your crank can rotate up to 20 degrees before the ratchet teeth engage. For technical mountain biking, it's important to have immediate engagement--you don't want that "clunk" when you need power RIGHT THEN. Less important for road biking. Also, 18t are almost silent on an average ride--36t create an audible buzz. I don't have any 54t, but they supposedly buzz very loudly.
now if only it was this easy on a pawl hub... my bearings are shot and they are literally impossible to get out (even the hub body needs to be removed with a hammer), any helpful videos or links for pawl hubs? ive looked all day and cant find any, only star ratchets!
yeah.. every video and read everywhere says the hub should just come right off by hand, yet to get mine off we had to really wail on the other side via the axle to get it off, and even then both bearings on the hub side were still stuck something good
only 1.5 years and 6500km and I need to change the bearings, one have a lateral play, the other rust inside. The wheels cost a lot, they do not last more but less than my former mavic, and I discover now that I need a special tool to remove the freewheel and that my regular tools for bearings are not enough. The DT swiss website does not tell me the full reference of the "ring nut remover" tool and I see that there is different shapes of the teeths.
Hi. Great video. Both bearings in my 11 speed road freehub on 350 hub have disintegrated completely leaving inner and outer races only with no way of identifying bearings. Would it be possible for you to tell me the bearings I need ?? Ian
dtswiss hy guys. please tell me how to extract the 6902 bearings from my dt swiss 370 hub in order to replace them with new ones?! i remove the cassette freewheel from hub body but I can't remove the axle from the hub! I have a rubber hummer and a give a few punch but nothing, the old bearings are still in place. what can I do?!
Hi Daryl and thank you for your message. All specific hub tools can be ordered through our distributors. As the needed tools are specific to the hub you're using, I would suggest to check our hub manuals, where the article number of the tools are included: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals Enjoy riding your Bicycle, Friso "DT Swiss".
Hi @DT Swiss i can't find information what type of bearings i have to look for to exchange worn one for dt240 centerlock strainghtpull boost 28spokes hub front and rear xd. Can You help me.
Hi Dariusz, thank you for the question. A DT Swiss 240s CL SP Boost hub will use two 6902 bearings in the hub shell. The XD freehub will use two 6802 bearings, but we do recommend replacing the entire freehub if the bearings in it are worn (part # HWRAAX00S3114S). Kind Regards, Andrew, DT Swiss USA
@@dtswiss what about front there is 6903 mark but is not 17x30x7 why? What about EXP ratchet will be there any conversion kit from ratchet to ratchet EXP?
Hi Dariusz, a 240s "Fifteen" CL SP front hub uses two 1830 series bearings in the hub shell. The bearing dimensions are 18 x 30 x 7mm. Existing ratchet hubs cannot convert to ratchet EXP. Kind Regards, Andrew, DT Swiss USA
Love the vid. Hey I have a Set if dtswiss 240 hubs. The front hub is nice and loose and the axel spins freely, the rear hub is quite stuff to turn by comparison. It’s just enough stiffness that when the rear wheel is mounted on the bike it’s too stiff for the the wheel to freewheel Loosely enough for the valve stem to always be pointing to the ground. The front hub is loose enough where the valve is always at 6 o’clock. I’m just trying to describe accurately how the rear hub is a bit stiffer to turn than the front hub.
Hi Matthew Your case is more or less impossible to judge over a computer via e-mail. There are so many different things which influence the effect your describing. As an example, a bearing should not spin to easy, when not mounted. In our case the DT Swiss hubs need preload from the axle to spin correctly. I would suggest to go to an experienced DT Swiss dealer and let him evaluate the function. Stay healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".
DT Swiss yes I have since done this. While it’s quite stiff to turn, it’s smooth and if held on either side the wheels turns freely. It seems there’s enough resistance to just stop the valve from ending up at 6 o’clock every time, but not much lore than that.
I just can recommand, if you think there might be something wrong with the hub, to contact one of our service centers. As I try to mention in my previous comment there is stil no possiblity to feel something through the WWW and there is as well no possible remote diagnostics on this. Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
Hi there and thank you for your message. The bearings we and most of the other hub manufactuers are using get a grease package which should last the calculated Lifetime of the bearing. If the grease is worn out or old, the bearing balls and the running surface are normally worn out as well and the bearing need to get replaced completely. But if you use a search engine, you will find as well instructions how to regrease an industrial bearing. The procedure is the same for any Kind of use ( Skateboards, Cars, Bikes, ….). Enjoy riding your bike, Friso "DT Swiss".
Bearing seal designation: The original ones i'm replacing are 6902LU which would indicate a single seal (not removed them yet to check). Can I replace with 2RS or LLB?
Hi 2sixstreet, as I know RS and LU stand for the same but from different suppliers. We use bearings with two covers, on the outside a seal that has a sealing lip to the inner ring and on the inside a cover with a tiny gap to the inner ring. This reduces the seal friction by half. If the designation of the dimensions is right (6902) it will fit the hub. At least on the outside it should have a seal. Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
Hi there Are you talking about the tools to remove the bearings or the replacent bearings themselves? For the Tools, costs are everytime depending on the numbers you're producing. Bearing replacement tool kits are usually not in every hobbyworkshop available but just with professionals. So there is just a premium Quality available and the numbers are small, compared for example with a chain tool. If your question is realted to the bearings themselves, here we have Special requirements for the bearings produced by the manufacturer. Those specific demands will lead in longer runtime but as well in a higher price. If this will pay off depends on what your expecting. Ride healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@dtswiss Thank you very much for the quick reply. I'm talking about the tools. I can understand that the tools, because of low production volumes and premium quality, is higher in price than a more "standard" item. However, as a home mechanic, the price for a complete tool set (HWTXXX00NTK24S) at 330 USD is extreme compared to what you get in terms of items (some nuts and bolts). I would assume that when you promote a product (your hubs) as easy to maintain and service, tools needed to do the job safe would both be easy to buy and affordable. This is unfortunately not the case in my opinion. I know there are other much less expensive non-DT Swiss options available on the market, I'm just suprised that the option from you retails for a whopping 330 USD . I ride my bikes all year here in Norway, and the fall and winter seasons can be rough on components. I have 3 wheelsets, two of them with 240s and one 350, all in need for bearing replacements. As local bikeshops in my area are slim and their service charges is equal to Apple I prefer to do the job myself, with or without the DT Swiss tool kit.
Thank you for your honest feedback. I would like to ask you to consider as well, we're not a tool manufacturer and beside the ringnut tool ( HXTXXX00N5027S ) you don't need a specific DT Swiss tool. All the other bearing Tools are available from many manufacturers. Have a good day, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@kiddiboy1980 I agree that a better more affordable option should be part of the whole package design. More thought should be put into the final user of an affordable hub, including tools needed.
Hi, Great video ! 2 quick questions please regarding my 240s rear freehub... 1) I recently cleaned and regressed inside my freehub. However, I used the red ratchet grease on all parts, i.e. the star ratchets, bearing faces, springs, spacer. Therefore, should I reclean and regrease? 2) As a "general assembly grease", I already have a Teflon grease (used for my Bottom bracket and headset) and a lithium grease (used on my pedal axles, and also between my cassette and outside of the freehub body). Would one of these greases be ok as a "general assembly grease" in the freehub ? Many thanks! Best, Gary
Hi, First of all - very good video. Thank you! I'm stuck at the point of ring nut removal. As you've mentioned in the video this might be due to the pedalling force. I have already tried to spray it with the things that I had at hand like wd-40 and brunox but it does not help. Shall I use any particular oil or solvent to get it done or meybe there is some special technique? Kind regards
Hi Since I'm - so to say - "alone in the Alps" (not very far from the DT Swiss headquaters actually) I could only try to break the nut ring loose by myself. I tried different ways, levers etc. with no success unfortunately. Then I gave up and went to one of the local bike shops for a help. I thought that then they can try to turn the wheel with more than 2 hands but after a few tries the guy told me that he is afraid to break the wheel and he told me to send the wheel to DT Swiss :-). Indeed my rim/spoke combination (ZTR Arch EX and DT Swiss Aero Spokes) is rather built for low weight so it is rather volatile. However after giving it a few further thoughts I finaly suceeded to remove the ring nut :-) I have done this using the following trick: 1. I took old disc (my hub has IS6 socket for disc brakes) and mounted it on the hub. 2. I put the wheel with the disc facing down on a wooden workbench. 3. Using 4 screws I attached the disc to the workbench (through the holes in the disc. I used old formula disc that has nice roud holes on the side). 4. I put the nut removal tool with corresponding wrench accompanied by abut 1 meter long pipe. 5. Sitting on the workbench I applied pressure to the end of the pipe (it like a "rowing movement"). 6. The ring nut finally came off. :-) Anticpating the questions: no - there is no damage to the IS6 sockets, nor the dics screws. The disc is a bit bent so I would rather not use a brak new one disc for that... Actually I think that DT Swiss could create a tool for this. It would be piece of flat metal with 6 holes for IS6 and below a Center Lock socket. This would be attached to a bar (i.e. like a normal wrench tool). Using this tool it would be easier to remove the ring nut for the hubs with disc brakes attachment, without a risk to damage the wheel. Not to mention that it would save quite some time while servicing those kind of hubs. Kind regards
hi, im leo from mexico and i a manager of a workshop of a specialized store and i have doubts to how do, so if you can make a video of how to disasembly the bearings of the body?
How about the front hub? I have problem remove the bearing from front hub... I tried to tab the axle to remove the bearing but it's very tight... don't want to break anything there :'(
Hi! You find all necessary information in our hub tech manuals. There you find a step by step guide with pictures as well: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals/ Kind regards, Christian, DT Swiss
Hi Dip Thank you for your message. Without having the product in our hands, it is hard to make any analysis, wether it's normal or not. First of all you should check if you used all the parts and nothing left on or under the table. As well you need to make sure all parts are placed in the right direction, especially springs and ratchets. If you still have any concern about the right function, I would suggest to show the hub/Wheel to an experienced mechanic or contact one of our service centers: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/service-center/ Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
dont waste your money - use a punch after moving the middle spacer aside. then pop in new bearings. both bearings have inner shoulders so you will be able to press them in just as you would with the hubs using a threaded rod. (dont forget the spacer in between!)
@@stevend99 for the 240s road rear hub, the bearings are: 2 x 6902, 2 x 6802. i forget which ones are for the freehub and which ones are for the axle. sorry.
Hi Stevend99, we use different bearing sizes for different purpose on our free hub bodies. For Hybrid they are bigger and for light versions smaller. Regarding service we don't change bearings on the free hub body. We change the whole part since not only the bearings are subject to wear but also the seat and thread used to fix the cassette. Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
Bearings get pretty messed up upon removing them and just from general wear and tear. They're really only meant to be installed once. If you're going this far with assembly you may as well just replace them. Standard bearings aren't that expensive and it'll save you time later of having to redo this to replace them. I'm not sure if DT swiss uses standard bearings, however.
If you want to clean them, do not remove them. Just use a pick to lift the seal, clean out best you can with IPA and brush (etc), then repack with bearing grease. Of course, def check for smooth rotation of bearings first. Many times my bearings are still good, but just need some cleaning.
@@donaldriddle7138 i think i set the bearings too hard. put new new ones in and its smooth. another point is that if the star nut is not fully tightened, which doesn't happen until afteryou start riding, the rear wheel will not spin freely. took me long time to figure that out.
@@frakafrocka I’m having a huge problem with the rear wheel “grinding” the ratchets hard and not spinning once installed on the bike. I’m stumped at this point. Never had an issue like this before. I have two sets of wheels with identical 350 hubs. The new set has been super loud, so I serviced it. After install, it barely rotates and the freewheel action is barely working. WTF is going on with these hubs?
Hi there, for sure a press would be even better. But I think there are not that much press available in home workshops where you can put a complete wheel in😉 We would like to show in this Video how you can do a replacment at home. As we even do the replacement that way on the race tracks around the world, I can tell you from my own experience it will work as well👍 Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@jeffbeck1100 it took me 3 bike shops to get mine removed. i dont have a vice and couldn't do it at home. 1 shop didnt want to break hub. 1 shop didn't have vice that was fastened tight enough. 3rd shop worked out.
Why not make a realistic video that portrays a used wheel? Chad states at t= 3:40, the demonstration wheel is "brand new". Per the comments below and discussion with peers that attempted to replace their bearings, it sounds like a risky proposition and it's possible to damage the wheel in the process. Namely, the Hub (because it's probable that a disc rotor will need to be attached and bolted to a table in order to get enough to torque to break the lockring free) and spokes. Perhaps it's cheaper to buy a new Hub unit or wheel instead of all the tools needed to extract the bearings and still possibly destroy the Hub and or need to re-lace the wheel with new spokes?
+dtswiss Of course it's nice to have all the tools and friends present when you need to torque the wheel to overcome the likely extreme lock ring torque... Although your studio is not perfect neither is a service shop. I still think it would be a valuable service to your customers to display the actual hub service with a "ridden" wheel. This will let them know what to expect under actual/practical circumstances. It would also be valuable if you would use a calibrated torque wrench record the torque requirement to undo the lock ring and mention that torque value. Is the Hub unit capable of handling the torque transmitted through a brake rotor into the six fasteners without damaging the hub housing? I ask this because I actually consulted with a professional wheel technician and he explained that they used the technique of fastening a used disc to a bench. The difference here is that the method shown in your video has the torque transmitted by hands on a rim and through the spokes into the Hub; however, using an old disc rotor would transmit the torque through the Threaded Fasteners into the hub. It seems that it is a worse scenario to transmit the torque through the spokes because spokes may be damaged in the process, whereas if the torque is transmitted through the disc hub there is no risk to spokes or hub, unless the cross section of the Hub, where the Fasteners transmit the torque is too weak to carry the load. Would you please report back from your engineering staff, the hub's allowable torque for each torque application site?
dtswiss Thank you. Clarification: I was referring to how much torque the hub assembly can tolerate (whether it is reacted by a disc rotor or by the rim/spokes via spoke flange of the Hub) in order to break free a ring nut before the hub could experience a stress failure (i.e. not the bolt torque). If two men struggle to apply enough torque (through your preferred rim/spoke load path or via the disc load path), I'm sure that adds up to a lot of stress in the hub. My concern is if this stress is too high for the Hub and which loading condition would allow for the highest applied torque without damaging the hub and/or spokes (if applied thru rim).
I hope you had a nice ride... 1) I am not looking for a "set value". I am looking for the max allowable torque that may be applied to remove the ring nut such that if exceeded could cause damage to the hub and/or spokes. 2) I understand you are trying to apply logic that the loosening torque can't exceed the tightening torque. It is conceivable that the loosening torque could exceed the tightening torque. For example, the tightening torque is applied gradually over time and due to various events (as you pointed out, i.e. shock loading during riding); however, things other than applied mechanical torque can cause the loosening torque to exceed the applied torque. For example, contamination (by ingestion of water/mud/grit) or corrosion at that thread interface between the lockring and the hub are examples of 2 things that are not related to the in-service duty cycle aspect of tightening torque. 3) Now that I laid a foundation for why torque may exceed your expectation, I'll get back to my concern about the max allowable applied torque for loosening. Given that the torque can be reacted by either the rim/spokes to the hub vs. the brake disk to the hub. Each of these cross-sections are different, thus there is a worst case (i.e. one has a weaker cross-section) of the two for transmitting torque and that weaker cross-section will be the 1st to fail and will not be preferred for loosening. Thus back to my earlier, unanswered question... (a) which of these 2 hub cross-sections is stronger and (b) how much torque can be applied to it before causing hub damage? Please forward my post to a DT Swiss engineer. Thanks.
If anybody has problems removing the ring nut... get a second pair of hands, leave the tire on and use a clamping device like they do in the vid!!! EASY. TL;DR: I tried so hard alone using a clamping device like they did (don't know the English word for it). Tried warming the ring nut and shell, tried letting oil drip between the hub and the ring nut... no success. As soon as I got pair of helping hands we could easily loosen it with just one try and at if at all used medium force. If you have 4 hands on the rim, it also distributes the load on the spokes way better and helps you to keep the alignment of turning direction rather than also applying lateral force perpendicular to the turning direction when you come close to your max strength limit. Also keeping the tire on the rim makes for way better grip.
I have a spacer on the ratchet side of the axle, it sits in between the bearing and freewheel. How do I remove it? Neither manual nor this video cover it.
Hammering is one the worst idea, for pulling bearings. Other methods should be presented. I have two pairs of 350 already. I wish to see a video presentation for the front hub 350.
Hi Cornel, your right! But when laced into a rim, there are not that many option to do this with standard tools. We're doing it that way for decades and it is a prooven one. If you have a single hub only, it would work as well with a press. But this is not a common tool in any house workshop. Stay healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".
Hi Andrew, could be that there is bug in the contact form or you request has been sent to an invalid mail address. Please send your request to our headquarters, we will answer it immediately. We would also appreciate to learn to which country and with which topice you have sent your request to check what's wrong. Best regards, Kai
@@dtswiss Hi Kai, Thanks for your response. I live in the Republic of Ireland. Can you give me a contact email for MTB hub queries in Europe please. Thanks Andrew.
Hi Andrew, please contact the Service Center of your country here: Hawkswood Lane Killeigh R35 Tullamore Co. Offaly Irland P +3530876502177 w www.dd-mbrs.ie @ derickdavoren@gmail.com Best regards, Kai
Very disappointed in the design of the lockring. I just dropped $75 for the removal tool and I can't budge the thing (I'm using a vice as shown in the video). Why did you guys design your hubs to require super-human strength to service? The wheels have about 2000 miles on them so are not that old. Any tips on getting this off without having to invite two of my cycling buddies over to help? I'm also worried that if and when I do get sufficient turning torque, I'm going to damage the rim by causing cracks at the spoke nipple contacts. There's something to be said for Shimano's cup and cone philosophy. Servicing those hubs has never taken more than a 1/2 hour per hub. This has been going on a week messing with it on and off and having to buy an expensive specialized tool. I bought DT-Swiss thinking I was getting a higher quality product but when you factor in the complicated hub maintenance plus costly tools, I really don't see the value proposition. Recently I replaced bearings in my friend's Zipp wheel which also uses a pawl design. That was a simple matter as the lockring ID sufficiently greater than the bearing OD making it easy to press the bearing in without the need to worry about removing the lockring. In my opinion, you guys really should add 100th of a mm or so to the lockring ID to avoid this issue altogether.
I just spent hours trying to get mine off, but i managed to do so with a neighbors vise - the wheels also have about 1-2 k on them and i was worried that all that pressure off the vise will damage the spokes or rim. It is quite ridiculous but im sure you can get it to go with the vise if you turn it (counterclockwise) hard enough. I had to lean my entire body on the turn before it popped loose. and that stupid hub seal that is seated surely doesnt help with braking the ring nut thread free.
@@rexfest Quick update. With the help of two of my friends (yes two) we were able to finally loosen the lockring. The wheel and spokes seem fine, just make sure that they are are in good true first (a rough proxy for having spoke tension in the recommended range). I have a spoke tension meter so I confirmed that way as well as on the truing stand. As for getting new bearings in, you could do a decent job of it with a soft blow mallet and a deep socket that's sized to make contact only with the outer race of the bearings. I used a slightly more elegant (I think) approach of using my BB press with the old bearings serving the role of drivers. That is, the old bearings are perfectly sized to make nice even contact with the new one so when they help push the new bearings in nice and smooth. You do have to do one final tap on the non-drive side however b/c the axle prevents you from using the press to fully seat the bearing (but you can get it in about 1/2 way with the press/old bearing method).
@@stuartsiegel2327 I just used a threaded rod to press in the bearings. i have a 3d printed adapter that i stack on with the bearing adapter for one side since the axle was poking out as you said, but all is well and i got the job done as well. Cheers to rolling on DTs! haha...
Hello Stuart, sorry to hear that there are difficulties removing that stuck ring nut. Please email us at info.us@dtswiss.com and we will be happy to email you some detailed removal instructions that should help. Best Regards, Andrew DT Swiss USA
@@dtswiss thanks for reply. I managed to get it off. I gave it a good WD-40 spray down, waited 24-hours and invited one of my biking buddies over for turning assistance. Between all that, it came off.
Hello, sorry to hear your shop vise broke. Insert the tool as far into the vice as possible (use the longer wrench flats) and tighten as much as possible. We find that removing the ring nut is a two and sometime three person job. It helps to keep the tire on the rim for extra grip. Secure the ring nut tool ‘firmly’ in the vise, and leave the axle in the hub so that it goes through the tool. Turn the wheel with a sudden thrust of effort and it should break the ring nut free. Another method, and what we do at events when there is no vise, is to have someone hold the wheel vertically on the ground and put a wrench with cheater bar on the ring nut tool. Be sure to orient this so that the wrench is being pushed down. Please note the ring nut is tightened as a result of pedaling forces. We have never encountered a ring nut that we were unable to loosen using the methods above. Best Regards, Andrew DT Swiss USA
in my opinion this method of installing and removing the bearings is very archaic. hammering the bearings will mark the bearing tracks of the steel balls!
Hello Rodrigo, when the proper DT Swiss bearing installation cylinders are used as demonstrated in the video, only the outer race of the bearing receives any contact from the installation tool. Therefore, there is no damage to the bearing tracks. Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA
DT Swiss AG I'm sorry, I did not realize that your tool introduces the bearing to the outer face of the bearing. Here in Brazil unfortunately the staff still insists on removing the bearing, redoing the grease and returning the same in the hub. That's why removing the bearing through a hammer turns out to be harmful. But only in this case where the bearing is not changed by a new one. TKS for atention!
Hello Rodrigo, yes, we recommend replacing the bearings rather than attempting to re-grease them, because it is difficult to remove the old bearings without damaging the races. Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA
There will be no video for predictive steering front hub service but you can find this in our ratchet hub manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf starting from page 22 Best regards
Ratchet ring DOES NOT COME OFF on a used wheel withough breaking spokes or tools. Additionally, the ratchet ring removal tool is WAYYYYY OVERPRICED. This is a TERRIBLE design. I am sending it in to DT to get the job done under warranty, each and every GOD DAMNED TIME!
Hello County Cycle, thanks for the comment. The key to removing the ring nut is a large, sturdy vise. Clamp the ring nut tool as low as possible in the vise, and make sure the vise is very tight. Usually a couple people are needed to hold the wheel's rim and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the ring nut. We use this method and have never failed to remove a ring nut (and there have been some tight ones)! If you happen break the tool during use, please contact our distributor/service center Outdoor Gear Canada for a replacement. Kind Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA
I found the solution to this, but it requires a few days. Just before the star-ratchet lock ring 'undoing' stage in the video...Sit the wheel level with the ratchet side facing up. Block the hole in the bearing on the star ratchet side and fill with anti-seize spray until overflowing. Sit for 24 hours. At the end of 24 hours tip out the spray and put the axle through the back (inner edge) of the star-ratchet size bearing and tap swiftly a few times to jar the lock-ring. Repeat at least once (block hole, fill with spray, tap to jar lock ring again) and more if stubborn. You'll need a quality vice and if you hear the spokes creaking excessively (a little bit is okay) stop and repeat the process. I got there eventually without breaking spokes or the tool, but did shatter a cheap vice.
such a thirty year old design... where is the bearing pre-load adjustment, so as the bearings break in, you can remove the play? Oh, what? Your disposable hubs don't have that? Why are they so expensive then?
REMOVE THE SPLINE RETAINER AT 4:00 WITH A IMPACT HAMMER *COUNTERCLOCKWISE*. Take the wheel and tool to your local mechanic. Mine did it on the spot for free. Your welcome.
Hi John, with an impact hammer you need to know what you're doing😉 But the advice to ask an experienced dealer is the easiest way👍 THANK YOU, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@dtswiss my local mechanic is a professional and I know personally and professionally the effectiveness of applying some wd40 and then first low to higher power with the impact hammer. The impact hammer was absolutely much better then cranking the wheel manually with my hands and feeling the spokes tension up and creak. Thanks but you guys belong to corporate, we're out here in the real world. Happy landings \o/
Thank you very much. I hope you still can ride your Bike in these crazy days. Hopefully in Switzerland this was and is still possible. Friso "DT Swiss".
I don't see the need for this video. First of all, it is kind of evident what to do. But secondly, i never had a customer who's bearings have gone on a dt even after 10 years of use...
This looks so nice and easy on a never used, clean hub. In reality tolerances are off, you will use tremendous force and destroy this hub. It's really a "use-and-discard" product, don't even think about replacing parts in this crap product, and do not spend 200€ in the "so special" tools you'll need to ust disassemble. So disappointed - never ever any DT Swiss on my bikes. From the beginning this hub was not smooth but very, very tight. Trying to change the bearings I ended up with a destroyed hub.
Hi, sorry to hear about the difficulty in servicing your hub. I've never seen a hub "destroyed" during bearing service when the proper service procedures are followed using the factory recommended tools. Please contact your local DT Swiss service center for further assistance. Regards, Andrew DT Swiss USA
This is the worst mechanism ever constructed. The look ring gets so thight after riding some month. And you really think one should by a whole set of special work tools for more than 150 Euros to just replace two old 5-Euro bearings (which you will actually sell for more than 30 Euros)? Are you a serious company, DT-Swiss? That's really bad! I would have never bought DT-swiss wheels when i would have known that! Never again...
I asked 3 shops in Berlin and none of them had the toolset! One had only the unlock tool and was not able to open the fixed ring! So there is nothing quick and simple.
@@igorgoga7985 CHRIS KING FTW? is their hub service just plain easy? Looking for a video now. Hehe. Thanks, maybe I can find a decent second hand one. Happy Landings o/
What is your experience with doing a bearing service? Do you have any questions regarding this topic? Let us know in the comments below. 👇
Is there a limit on forces one may apply by turning the wheel left to remove the ring nut? Specifically with regards to a carbon rim. Is there an alternate method for loosening if the rim is carbon? Should two people be torquing that hard on a carbon wheel?
Hi
Thank you for your question. We don't have a maximum torque for loosen the ringnut. It's related to the torque the rider put on the nut while using the wheel. Sometimes we use as well two people, which is helpful as well to keep the turning direction aligned. A wheel which is build in a proper way should not get affected. As you maybe can imagine, the torque of a strong rider combined with gear reduction on a strong climb will put much more torque on the components while riding.
Friso "DT Swiss".
So I'm still trying to remove the ringnut @4:00. I cranked with both arms counterclockwise and stopped out of concern of breaking spokes from the torque. I'm not impressed with this design. Thanks dt swiss. Anyone recommend another better hub system?
No dice. I'm about to take the wheel to lbs and/or take a syringe and inject grease into the bearing.
Was able to free it up by spraying the ring drive nut with Finish Line Chill Zone for 15 seconds. Needed more force, but it cracked free. Don't know if it was the extra force or the FLCZ spray or both. 🖖
Just did mine and this video was a great help, thanks! I have a couple of tips that people might find useful:
1. If the splined ring is proving difficult to get off (mine was rotating the spline tool in the vise!) then try heading the hub with a heat gun on high for a few minutes. You won't damage anything and my splined ring came out without too much effort after that.
2. When it comes to installing the first bearing (non drive side) I used the bearing seating tool and a piece of threaded rod, a large washer and some nuts. The bearing seating tool goes on the bearing, the washer goes on the drive side of the hub and the threaded rod connects the two. Then by tightening the nuts the bearing is pulled into the hub perfectly parallel. I've never been able to pound bearings in straight, they always cock in the bore, so this makes it allot easier. The rest was a dream after that.
What did you use to heat things up, please don't say a naked flame ;-)
The first bearing MUST be the DRIVE SIDE! The axle provides the spacing of the bearings, NOT the hub flanges. The drive side shall be seated until the flange inside the hub and the non drive accordingly in the correct distance by inserting the axle, providing correct spacing.
Good job DT Swiss. This is, hands down, the best hub overhaul video I have viewed for a product I own. No cheesy background music, great video quality, clear stop action shots, well explained and I appreciate the attention to detail, i.e. emphasizing the importance of which direction certain small parts must be assembled. Other manufacturers could take some lessons from this, eh hum....Chris King.
Hi,
thanks for your great feedback. Glad to hear it that you like our video!
Kind regards,
Sandro
DT Swiss
of course DT could take some lessons on how to make HUBS from King...
@@donaldriddle7138lol no
Gotta love how im having to do this after only putting 400 miles on ur guys "Nice hubs" 👍
really, that soon?
I have the 240s hubs (pre 2020)....and clearly remember being told by DT Swiss they were 'easy to service'. My campy bora wheel hubs can be serviced with basic tools in 15 mins, but the DTS 240 hubs require £100's worth of tools. Anything but easy to service.
Good content for a pro mechanic. I wish DT Swiss would do a “beginner” video for those of us that don’t understand the lingo and don’t have a big vice to work with, etc.
But it's not exactly a "beginner" job. I don't really see what else they could do to make this more dumbed down.
You can buy a clamp mounted vice for cheap online
I had problems getting the freehub body off the axle because it had seized to the axle. Got it out by tapping on the axle shown in other UA-cam videos. That fix might be a good addition to this video.
Wow how many special tools are required.....
Hi, Thank you for this video it was realy helpfull. I only want to know from you guys, how you
know the difference between A "350" and the "240" Hubs ? I mean they are the same, specially in some hubs with dt swiss internals like the "Roval" or "sram".
Professional description, thank you. Can you please mention here again the tools needed. Thank you in advance and best regards.
The only special tool you really need is the ring nut removal tool, for the rest you can easily improvise with sockets, washers, a length of threaded rod etc. Just remember to seat the drive side bearing first as this then aligns all that follows to its correct spacing, & do use the threaded rod bearing press method, rather than hammering on bearings, even if it is only on the outer race.
Ancora complimenti vivissimi. In un video non parlate, in questo video riprendete tutto da 10 metri, tant'è che per vedere cosa fa il meccanico serve un monitore da 80 pollici. Vi serve un buon regista.
if i remember correctly, the manual mentioned not to put any grease onto the ring nut, why would that be ?
I replaced the bearings in my 240 rear hub. However the main hub bearings run notchy and resisitant from new. They are DT Swiss bearings and the correct size and seated correctly. Any ideas why?
Thanks for sharing, just, I haven't got a vise, and haven't got anywhere to put it if I buy one, so I wonder if there's a way to do this without, maybe an idea for a future video....? ;- ) ;- ) ;- )
- And happy new year....!!!
If you cant open the ringnut try to heat the hub with a hot air gun !
your new-ish exp hub is a bear to do a bearing service on. unlike the previous 240s where you had that ring gear and the tool would sit very firmly in place the exp has MUCH smaller teeth. the previous vice method no longer worked. i'm even a reasonably strong guy and could not get enough leverage before the tool popped out. in the end it took a long bolt through the tool and hub to cinch it in place. a 15" adjustable wrench and 4ft pipe on said wrench. put the pipe under the bench and rolled the wheel toward me using that giant lever for torque. finally came free and i was able to change the one crunchy bearing. other 3 bearings are fine and i half wonder if that bearing is getting compressed as the ring tightens causing some type of deflection. anyone else have the bearing in the ratchet fail more frequently than the others?
Very nice video. Thank you. Now can you also a video for the free hub bearings?
I thought The 350 used pawl engagement. I always avoided them because of this mistaken assumption. I pretty sure some 350’s are pawl engagements. Star ratchet just seems so simple and easy a system, besides being lightweight and bombproof. Unfortunately, I can’t use the system on my 2007 Mavic slr’s, but the weight and strength of the complete wheel make up for the slack pawl engagement.
Old 350’s were 3 pawl now they’re all star ratchet thankfully.
Best instruction film ever. I har CR 1600 wheels, is it same process to change bearings as in video? Is it possible to change bearings in the free hub or just buy a new complete free hub with bearings included when its time for service?
Hi Peter, the CR 1600 wheel set is based on the 350 hub and the process is the same. We don't service freehub bodies, they are only available as entire piece with or without the right side end cap.
Best regards, José, DT Swiss
Great video - informative, clear and well presented !
Why camera is all the time on the guy instead of parts??? How its possible to be great video??
Thanks for the video. Can you tell if you need to remove the hub-seal/ring-nut if only the inner axle is to be replaced? Or can it just be hammered out? Fyi, it broke inside the hub.
You should be able to hammer out on the non drive side. The ring nut removal is only necesarry if you need access to the drive side bearing.
Hi dt swiss.. i want to change my old bearing. Can you tell the size of bearing for dt swiss XR1501 spline one 29 ? I can't find on your manual instruction. For front hub, i use 100 x TA15mm and 135 x 10mm for the rear. Is the mechanism to remove the bearing, same with this video ? Need your advice. Thank tou
Do you have a link or part number(s) to a tool kit, or the tools needed for a 2021 (newest version) 350 rear boost/CL/J-Bens/XD hub? Also, still 6902s?
where can I buy a new hub seal? i dont have your fancy adapter tools so i had to use a punch to punch mine in and now its all scratch up.
smart move to tell people to remove both bearings.
if you dont have the original kit, its hard to get a bearing back in if both are out. remove one bearing, keep one in. then install the new bearing and continue with removing the second old bearing and then install the last new bearing
I have DT wheels on a brand new bike. Changing a flat the wheel fell over and the Hub fell apart. Ratchets and springs landed in the dirt. And after watching this video it looks like the Hub was designed to do that. So TT hubs are practically not usable, they fall apart anytime the wheel falls over.
hello there.. i want to change my bearings? what bearings should i put on it for a hub like this on video?
Can you please advise parts numbers for hub bearings that should be installed in a 240s hub? Are they both the same? I’m currently researching this and DT Swiss have advised there are two different bearings that go into the hub shell and bike shops are saying the same model for each bearing (2 x in hub shell). Thanks.
Hi, thank you for your comment. The 240 hub is for more than 20 years in the portfolio of DT Swiss. In this time we offered multiple versions. There are three possibilities, to get the details about the bearings in your hub: 1. Remove the bearings to check on the outside the bearingtype, the numbers are standardized worldwide 2. Use our product support tool (
www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support
) to identify your hub, so you will see there the correct bearing types. 3. Get in contact with one of our service centers (
www.dtswiss.com/en/support/contact
), they are able to identify with the serial number of the hub, the bearings being used in your hub.
I've got a ex1750 n'duro hub. I assume when using that splined adapter nut I turn left, counter clockwise as well? I broke a vise doing this so far... I really did!!
Hello @DtSwiss this is a common question I guess; I love my DTSwiss 350 Hubs (front and rear) but I would like to change the bearings to SincCeramic so my question is: Can you tell me the size of the bearings I need for DTSwiss Front and for the Rear Hub? I've contacted support via email but they only told me to find the bearing size and purchase them separately. Can you guys help me? Thank you! Great video!
what bearing size for front and rear hub?bearing size for freebody hub also..thanks in advance...
I see that you use the red star ratchet grease on the inner faces of the star, but id didn't see you use any grease on the outside of the star ratchets (or the inner faces of the mating surfaces on the free hub body or hub shell). Do you not use any grease on those surfaces? Thanks-
on the newer 240s there seem to be no grove for the drive side washer. also, there was no grease (or anti seize) on the star nut on my brand new dt wheel. good think i checked. it already made a unseizing sound when i removed it (and greased it). I had a dt240s ungreased like this and removing the star nut after 2 years of riding was extremely hard
Hi there
Thank you for purchasing one of our products. Regarding your question, I think you're Talking about the ringnut, which is screwed in the hubshell. As you can see in our Manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf
We do not use grease to mount the ringnut. We do know that it is sometimes hard to disassemble, but it will not change if grease is used. When you're Talking about the washer on the drive side, you mean the endcap? There should be a groove on the drive side but there is no one on the non drive side.
If you think there is a Problem with your hub, please get in contact with one our service centers ( a list can be found on our Website ).
Have a nice day, Friso, "DT Swiss".
So I'm still trying to remove the ringnut @4:00. I cranked with both arms counterclockwise and stopped out of concern as I both heard and felt the spokes flexing from the torque. I'm not impressed with this design. Thanks dt swiss. Anyone recommend another better hub system?
Some people use heat to warm the hub because the alloy expansion and then they remove the ringnut... just be careful when doing to avoid damage
Great video. What would be the symptoms of hub needing a full service like this? My dtswiss 350 on a Roval c38 seems to not spin smoothly or as freely as comparison bikes. The bike has only done less than 2000km. Freewheeling it doesn't get many rotations, and backpedaling where freewheeling slows the wheel. When pedaling forward, compared to other bikes, it also doesn't rotate as many times. I'm wondering if when the bike was built the dealer mechanic installed something wrong, didn't use the right grease or something else?
Hi Gerard, I would suggest to contact your LBS in order to have the hub serviced. Of course you could also do it by yourself. I can't judge from here if there was a mistake made by your mechanic. Kind regards, Christian, DT Swiss
You can pull with bear hand the end cap !!! Bearing can be removed using extraction bolt nut and large bush , avoiding hammering !
but you're SUPPOSED to use a hammer on these disposable hubs. did you think these were Kings?
@Maciej Jan Długosz you're right, 'no self respecting mechanic' would follow DT's instructions...
Wrong. Mine (3 sets of 240s') won't come out with just hand force.
Excelente video. Por favor podría detallar los códigos de las herramientas de dt swiss para este caso? Gracias!
Hi ! Before unmounting my Syncros wheels, i would like to know if it's the same process for 370 rear hub and 350 front hub ? Could you tell me if the Dynamic High Performance Grease makes the job right for these bearings instead of the DT Swiss star ratchet grease ?Is the assembly grease could be the one of Shimano ? Thanks a lot for this video. Thomas
Why non lithium grease?
How often is it recommended to do this?
Hey, I've got a seized drive-side bearing that won't come out, even with a good hammer and the axle flipped. Thoughts on a fix? Thanks!
Hi, we assume you did remove the thread ring in front of the bearing. In case you have the hub only it may help is to put it into the freezer for a while and the try again with hammer and axle. In the worst case the hub Shell must be replaced. Best regards Kai
I can't seem to find any info about servicing the DT Swiss 350 front hub. Mine have developed a squeaking sound, and I would like to grease them. Is the process similar for removing the end caps?
Hi Adam, first of all make sure the QR or thru axle is firmly tightened. There is no greasing needed since there are no touching parts besides the bearings but those can be replaced with the according tools. Here is the link to the manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000861S/MAN_WXD10000000861S_WEB_EN_002.pdf
Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
@@dtswiss I actually found it in this section 4.1.5 Maintenance of the Front Wheel Hub [350 Thru Axle] on your "HUBS TECHNICAL MANUAL RATCHET
" manual. Kinda buried in there a ways. (dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf)
My ring nut is solid in the assembly, it just will not budge! Very tight. I'd read that trying to heat it up a little might help but I'm unsure if it's okay to do that. I tried all else in terms of passively trying to unscrew it. Stuck. Help anyone?
Could you please tell me the part numbers fot the required tools to service DT350 front and rear hubs?
Hi Andreas, please write your request to service@dtswiss.com. Best regards, José, DT Swiss
Hola
No soy capaz da aflojar el anillo dentado, alguna sugerencia para hacerlo ...
Hi, Thanks for the Video. do i really need to upgrade from 18 to 36T or 54T on my FFWDF6R 240s allow carbon chincher wheels, whats the real gain here? Used on a road bike.
Not necessary. The difference is hub engagement. Take 360 degrees in a circle and divide by number of teeth. For 18t, that's 20 degrees, which means your crank can rotate up to 20 degrees before the ratchet teeth engage. For technical mountain biking, it's important to have immediate engagement--you don't want that "clunk" when you need power RIGHT THEN. Less important for road biking. Also, 18t are almost silent on an average ride--36t create an audible buzz. I don't have any 54t, but they supposedly buzz very loudly.
Hi i have a dt swiss spline E1900 3 paws is the process the same as this one to change the bearings, tanks
Can the two bearings in the dt 350 hub be replaced without disassembling the ring nut?
no
now if only it was this easy on a pawl hub... my bearings are shot and they are literally impossible to get out (even the hub body needs to be removed with a hammer), any helpful videos or links for pawl hubs? ive looked all day and cant find any, only star ratchets!
yeah.. every video and read everywhere says the hub should just come right off by hand, yet to get mine off we had to really wail on the other side via the axle to get it off, and even then both bearings on the hub side were still stuck something good
only 1.5 years and 6500km and I need to change the bearings, one have a lateral play, the other rust inside. The wheels cost a lot, they do not last more but less than my former mavic, and I discover now that I need a special tool to remove the freewheel and that my regular tools for bearings are not enough. The DT swiss website does not tell me the full reference of the "ring nut remover" tool and I see that there is different shapes of the teeths.
I only got the ref HXDXXX00N1131S for a HU1900 rear
Hi. Great video. Both bearings in my 11 speed road freehub on 350 hub have disintegrated completely leaving inner and outer races only with no way of identifying bearings. Would it be possible for you to tell me the bearings I need ??
Ian
dtswiss hy guys. please tell me how to extract the 6902 bearings from my dt swiss 370 hub in order to replace them with new ones?! i remove the cassette freewheel from hub body but I can't remove the axle from the hub! I have a rubber hummer and a give a few punch but nothing, the old bearings are still in place. what can I do?!
dtswiss thank you very much for the instructions. dt swiss best team! :)
Hello. any tutorials for this on a Roval CLX 50 Wheelset?
Is it possible to buy a tool kit which cover my needs for DT Swiss Hubs 240 and 350 maintenance ?
Hi Svend
Yes there is a DT Swiss Toolkit ractchet hubs available. The article number is HWTXXX00NTK24S. Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
Where can you buy the bearing installation cylinders, and what are the model numbers?
Hi Daryl and thank you for your message. All specific hub tools can be ordered through our distributors. As the needed tools are specific to the hub you're using, I would suggest to check our hub manuals, where the article number of the tools are included:
www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals
Enjoy riding your Bicycle, Friso "DT Swiss".
Hi @DT Swiss i can't find information what type of bearings i have to look for to exchange worn one for dt240 centerlock strainghtpull boost 28spokes hub front and rear xd. Can You help me.
Hi Dariusz, thank you for the question. A DT Swiss 240s CL SP Boost hub will use two 6902 bearings in the hub shell. The XD freehub will use two 6802 bearings, but we do recommend replacing the entire freehub if the bearings in it are worn (part # HWRAAX00S3114S). Kind Regards, Andrew, DT Swiss USA
@@dtswiss what about front there is 6903 mark but is not 17x30x7 why? What about EXP ratchet will be there any conversion kit from ratchet to ratchet EXP?
Hi Dariusz, a 240s "Fifteen" CL SP front hub uses two 1830 series bearings in the hub shell. The bearing dimensions are 18 x 30 x 7mm. Existing ratchet hubs cannot convert to ratchet EXP. Kind Regards, Andrew, DT Swiss USA
Love the vid. Hey I have a Set if dtswiss 240 hubs. The front hub is nice and loose and the axel spins freely, the rear hub is quite stuff to turn by comparison.
It’s just enough stiffness that when the rear wheel is mounted on the bike it’s too stiff for the the wheel to freewheel Loosely enough for the valve stem to always be pointing to the ground.
The front hub is loose enough where the valve is always at 6 o’clock.
I’m just trying to describe accurately how the rear hub is a bit stiffer to turn than the front hub.
Sorry I meant set OF dtswiss hubs and quite STIFF to turn, not stuff
Hi Matthew
Your case is more or less impossible to judge over a computer via e-mail. There are so many different things which influence the effect your describing. As an example, a bearing should not spin to easy, when not mounted. In our case the DT Swiss hubs need preload from the axle to spin correctly. I would suggest to go to an experienced DT Swiss dealer and let him evaluate the function.
Stay healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".
DT Swiss yes I have since done this. While it’s quite stiff to turn, it’s smooth and if held on either side the wheels turns freely. It seems there’s enough resistance to just stop the valve from ending up at 6 o’clock every time, but not much lore than that.
I just can recommand, if you think there might be something wrong with the hub, to contact one of our service centers.
As I try to mention in my previous comment there is stil no possiblity to feel something through the WWW and there is as well no possible remote diagnostics on this. Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
Yes I took it already to bike shop, guy there was familiar with dtswiss. He said it was normal
How to open and service the FREE HUB bearings? I cannot find it anywhere
Hi there and thank you for your message. The bearings we and most of the other hub manufactuers are using get a grease package which should last the calculated Lifetime of the bearing. If the grease is worn out or old, the bearing balls and the running surface are normally worn out as well and the bearing need to get replaced completely. But if you use a search engine, you will find as well instructions how to regrease an industrial bearing. The procedure is the same for any Kind of use ( Skateboards, Cars, Bikes, ….). Enjoy riding your bike, Friso "DT Swiss".
Bearing seal designation: The original ones i'm replacing are 6902LU which would indicate a single seal (not removed them yet to check). Can I replace with 2RS or LLB?
Hi 2sixstreet, as I know RS and LU stand for the same but from different suppliers. We use bearings with two covers, on the outside a seal that has a sealing lip to the inner ring and on the inside a cover with a tiny gap to the inner ring. This reduces the seal friction by half. If the designation of the dimensions is right (6902) it will fit the hub. At least on the outside it should have a seal. Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
@@dtswiss thanks for the reply. Do you have a DT Swiss part number so I could source them please?
Hi 2sixstreet, the latest part number is HSBXXX00N2336S, Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
Why are these bearing removal kits som damn expensive??!! Are the production costs that high?
Hi there
Are you talking about the tools to remove the bearings or the replacent bearings themselves?
For the Tools, costs are everytime depending on the numbers you're producing. Bearing replacement tool kits are usually not in every hobbyworkshop available but just with professionals. So there is just a premium Quality available and the numbers are small, compared for example with a chain tool.
If your question is realted to the bearings themselves, here we have Special requirements for the bearings produced by the manufacturer. Those specific demands will lead in longer runtime but as well in a higher price. If this will pay off depends on what your expecting. Ride healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@dtswiss Thank you very much for the quick reply.
I'm talking about the tools. I can understand that the tools, because of low production volumes and premium quality, is higher in price than a more "standard" item. However, as a home mechanic, the price for a complete tool set (HWTXXX00NTK24S) at 330 USD is extreme compared to what you get in terms of items (some nuts and bolts).
I would assume that when you promote a product (your hubs) as easy to maintain and service, tools needed to do the job safe would both be easy to buy and affordable. This is unfortunately not the case in my opinion. I know there are other much less expensive non-DT Swiss options available on the market, I'm just suprised that the option from you retails for a whopping 330 USD .
I ride my bikes all year here in Norway, and the fall and winter seasons can be rough on components. I have 3 wheelsets, two of them with 240s and one 350, all in need for bearing replacements. As local bikeshops in my area are slim and their service charges is equal to Apple I prefer to do the job myself, with or without the DT Swiss tool kit.
Thank you for your honest feedback.
I would like to ask you to consider as well, we're not a tool manufacturer and beside the ringnut tool ( HXTXXX00N5027S ) you don't need a specific DT Swiss tool. All the other bearing Tools are available from many manufacturers. Have a good day, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@kiddiboy1980 I agree that a better more affordable option should be part of the whole package design. More thought should be put into the final user of an affordable hub, including tools needed.
hi,you guys should do a video, how to change freehub bearings!
i look at,no videos at all!
thanks for the videos!
Ride on!
They won't because they just want you to buy a new freehub body
Hi, Great video !
2 quick questions please regarding my 240s rear freehub...
1) I recently cleaned and regressed inside my freehub. However, I used the red ratchet grease on all parts, i.e. the star ratchets, bearing faces, springs, spacer. Therefore, should I reclean and regrease?
2) As a "general assembly grease", I already have a Teflon grease (used for my Bottom bracket and headset) and a lithium grease (used on my pedal axles, and also between my cassette and outside of the freehub body). Would one of these greases be ok as a "general assembly grease" in the freehub ?
Many thanks!
Best, Gary
dtswiss Thanks Chad 👍
Hi,
First of all - very good video. Thank you!
I'm stuck at the point of ring nut removal. As you've mentioned in the video this might be due to the pedalling force. I have already tried to spray it with the things that I had at hand like wd-40 and brunox but it does not help. Shall I use any particular oil or solvent to get it done or meybe there is some special technique?
Kind regards
Hi
Since I'm - so to say - "alone in the Alps" (not very far from the DT Swiss headquaters actually) I could only try to break the nut ring loose by myself. I tried different ways, levers etc. with no success unfortunately. Then I gave up and went to one of the local bike shops for a help. I thought that then they can try to turn the wheel with more than 2 hands but after a few tries the guy told me that he is afraid to break the wheel and he told me to send the wheel to DT Swiss :-). Indeed my rim/spoke combination (ZTR Arch EX and DT Swiss Aero Spokes) is rather built for low weight so it is rather volatile.
However after giving it a few further thoughts I finaly suceeded to remove the ring nut :-)
I have done this using the following trick:
1. I took old disc (my hub has IS6 socket for disc brakes) and mounted it on the hub.
2. I put the wheel with the disc facing down on a wooden workbench.
3. Using 4 screws I attached the disc to the workbench (through the holes in the disc. I used old formula disc that has nice roud holes on the side).
4. I put the nut removal tool with corresponding wrench accompanied by abut 1 meter long pipe.
5. Sitting on the workbench I applied pressure to the end of the pipe (it like a "rowing movement").
6. The ring nut finally came off. :-)
Anticpating the questions: no - there is no damage to the IS6 sockets, nor the dics screws. The disc is a bit bent so I would rather not use a brak new one disc for that...
Actually I think that DT Swiss could create a tool for this. It would be piece of flat metal with 6 holes for IS6 and below a Center Lock socket. This would be attached to a bar (i.e. like a normal wrench tool). Using this tool it would be easier to remove the ring nut for the hubs with disc brakes attachment, without a risk to damage the wheel. Not to mention that it would save quite some time while servicing those kind of hubs.
Kind regards
Great video - Thanks!
hi, im leo from mexico and i a manager of a workshop of a specialized store and i have doubts to how do, so
if you can make a video of how to disasembly the bearings of the body?
thank you very much
If it's the process I do
I just wanted to be sure of him
How about the front hub? I have problem remove the bearing from front hub... I tried to tab the axle to remove the bearing but it's very tight... don't want to break anything there :'(
Exactly > how about front hub bearing removal process ?
Hi! You find all necessary information in our hub tech manuals. There you find a step by step guide with pictures as well: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals/
Kind regards, Christian, DT Swiss
This video save my day. Thank you!
my too:D
I just upgraded to 54 tooth ratchet and now my hub is making a wineing sound?
Hi Dip
Thank you for your message. Without having the product in our hands, it is hard to make any analysis, wether it's normal or not.
First of all you should check if you used all the parts and nothing left on or under the table. As well you need to make sure all parts are placed in the right direction, especially springs and ratchets. If you still have any concern about the right function, I would suggest to show the hub/Wheel to an experienced mechanic or contact one of our service centers:
www.dtswiss.com/en/support/service-center/
Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
great vid. where can i buy the bearing removal tools? thx!
gostei do vídeo, pq aqui onde eu moro não tem está ferramenta de retirada do rolamento do meio, Agora vou comprar e fazer o serviço
Great video; how do you replace the bearings in the freehub please? Thx.
Hi Marek, we usually replace complete freehub bodies. Best regards, DT Swiss
dont waste your money - use a punch after moving the middle spacer aside. then pop in new bearings. both bearings have inner shoulders so you will be able to press them in just as you would with the hubs using a threaded rod. (dont forget the spacer in between!)
@@rexfest what size bearings are in the freehub ?
@@stevend99 for the 240s road rear hub, the bearings are: 2 x 6902, 2 x 6802. i forget which ones are for the freehub and which ones are for the axle. sorry.
Hi Stevend99, we use different bearing sizes for different purpose on our free hub bodies. For Hybrid they are bigger and for light versions smaller. Regarding service we don't change bearings on the free hub body. We change the whole part since not only the bearings are subject to wear but also the seat and thread used to fix the cassette. Kind regards, José, DT Swiss
Can I just clean my old bearing and place it back on the place? Will it fit?
dtswiss but will it be possible to fit old one on place?
Bearings get pretty messed up upon removing them and just from general wear and tear. They're really only meant to be installed once. If you're going this far with assembly you may as well just replace them. Standard bearings aren't that expensive and it'll save you time later of having to redo this to replace them. I'm not sure if DT swiss uses standard bearings, however.
If you want to clean them, do not remove them. Just use a pick to lift the seal, clean out best you can with IPA and brush (etc), then repack with bearing grease. Of course, def check for smooth rotation of bearings first. Many times my bearings are still good, but just need some cleaning.
what happens if after installing new bearings you feel some roughness or grittyness in axel spin? thanks
with the DT, design there's nothing you can do about it!
@@donaldriddle7138 i think i set the bearings too hard. put new new ones in and its smooth. another point is that if the star nut is not fully tightened, which doesn't happen until afteryou start riding, the rear wheel will not spin freely. took me long time to figure that out.
@@frakafrocka I’m having a huge problem with the rear wheel “grinding” the ratchets hard and not spinning once installed on the bike. I’m stumped at this point. Never had an issue like this before. I have two sets of wheels with identical 350 hubs. The new set has been super loud, so I serviced it. After install, it barely rotates and the freewheel action is barely working. WTF is going on with these hubs?
@@energ8t was the ring nut installed backwards? That could cause the freewheeling issue
Nice video.. but its better if you dont hit for install new bearing.. do with pressing tool
Hi there, for sure a press would be even better. But I think there are not that much press available in home workshops where you can put a complete wheel in😉 We would like to show in this Video how you can do a replacment at home. As we even do the replacement that way on the race tracks around the world, I can tell you from my own experience it will work as well👍 Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".
Any tricks on how to remove the star ratchet ring nut that is very tight? I have the tool and a bench vise, but I can't unthighen that damn ring nut
Did you get it sorted Mike? I have the same problem...currently soaking it in penetrating fluid.
@@jeffbeck1100 it took me 3 bike shops to get mine removed. i dont have a vice and couldn't do it at home. 1 shop didnt want to break hub. 1 shop didn't have vice that was fastened tight enough. 3rd shop worked out.
Hello! Thank you!
Mas ai não. Vai abrir o rolamento,retirar a graxa,com algum solvente,lavar e voltar a engraxar!???
can you give me the model part of ring nut tools for x1900 spline wheelset
Hi Ricky, the article number for the ringlet tool 3pawl is: HXTXXX00N5266S. Enjoy riding your Bicycle, Friso "DT Swiss".
Why not make a realistic video that portrays a used wheel? Chad states at t= 3:40, the demonstration wheel is "brand new". Per the comments below and discussion with peers that attempted to replace their bearings, it sounds like a risky proposition and it's possible to damage the wheel in the process. Namely, the Hub (because it's probable that a disc rotor will need to be attached and bolted to a table in order to get enough to torque to break the lockring free) and spokes. Perhaps it's cheaper to buy a new Hub unit or wheel instead of all the tools needed to extract the bearings and still possibly destroy the Hub and or need to re-lace the wheel with new spokes?
+dtswiss Of course it's nice to have all the tools and friends present when you need to torque the wheel to overcome the likely extreme lock ring torque... Although your studio is not perfect neither is a service shop. I still think it would be a valuable service to your customers to display the actual hub service with a "ridden" wheel. This will let them know what to expect under actual/practical circumstances. It would also be valuable if you would use a calibrated torque wrench record the torque requirement to undo the lock ring and mention that torque value. Is the Hub unit capable of handling the torque transmitted through a brake rotor into the six fasteners without damaging the hub housing?
I ask this because I actually consulted with a professional wheel technician and he explained that they used the technique of fastening a used disc to a bench. The difference here is that the method shown in your video has the torque transmitted by hands on a rim and through the spokes into the Hub; however, using an old disc rotor would transmit the torque through the Threaded Fasteners into the hub. It seems that it is a worse scenario to transmit the torque through the spokes because spokes may be damaged in the process, whereas if the torque is transmitted through the disc hub there is no risk to spokes or hub, unless the cross section of the Hub, where the Fasteners transmit the torque is too weak to carry the load.
Would you please report back from your engineering staff, the hub's allowable torque for each torque application site?
dtswiss Thank you. Clarification: I was referring to how much torque the hub assembly can tolerate (whether it is reacted by a disc rotor or by the rim/spokes via spoke flange of the Hub) in order to break free a ring nut before the hub could experience a stress failure (i.e. not the bolt torque). If two men struggle to apply enough torque (through your preferred rim/spoke load path or via the disc load path), I'm sure that adds up to a lot of stress in the hub. My concern is if this stress is too high for the Hub and which loading condition would allow for the highest applied torque without damaging the hub and/or spokes (if applied thru rim).
I hope you had a nice ride...
1) I am not looking for a "set value". I am looking for the max allowable torque that may be applied to remove the ring nut such that if exceeded could cause damage to the hub and/or spokes.
2) I understand you are trying to apply logic that the loosening torque can't exceed the tightening torque. It is conceivable that the loosening torque could exceed the tightening torque. For example, the tightening torque is applied gradually over time and due to various events (as you pointed out, i.e. shock loading during riding); however, things other than applied mechanical torque can cause the loosening torque to exceed the applied torque. For example, contamination (by ingestion of water/mud/grit) or corrosion at that thread interface between the lockring and the hub are examples of 2 things that are not related to the in-service duty cycle aspect of tightening torque.
3) Now that I laid a foundation for why torque may exceed your expectation, I'll get back to my concern about the max allowable applied torque for loosening. Given that the torque can be reacted by either the rim/spokes to the hub vs. the brake disk to the hub. Each of these cross-sections are different, thus there is a worst case (i.e. one has a weaker cross-section) of the two for transmitting torque and that weaker cross-section will be the 1st to fail and will not be preferred for loosening. Thus back to my earlier, unanswered question... (a) which of these 2 hub cross-sections is stronger and (b) how much torque can be applied to it before causing hub damage? Please forward my post to a DT Swiss engineer. Thanks.
If anybody has problems removing the ring nut... get a second pair of hands, leave the tire on and use a clamping device like they do in the vid!!! EASY.
TL;DR:
I tried so hard alone using a clamping device like they did (don't know the English word for it). Tried warming the ring nut and shell, tried letting oil drip between the hub and the ring nut... no success. As soon as I got pair of helping hands we could easily loosen it with just one try and at if at all used medium force. If you have 4 hands on the rim, it also distributes the load on the spokes way better and helps you to keep the alignment of turning direction rather than also applying lateral force perpendicular to the turning direction when you come close to your max strength limit. Also keeping the tire on the rim makes for way better grip.
You guys need to go to Chris King hub design school!
I have a spacer on the ratchet side of the axle, it sits in between the bearing and freewheel. How do I remove it? Neither manual nor this video cover it.
Very good
Hammering is one the worst idea, for pulling bearings. Other methods should be presented. I have two pairs of 350 already. I wish to see a video presentation for the front hub 350.
Hi Cornel, your right! But when laced into a rim, there are not that many option to do this with standard tools. We're doing it that way for decades and it is a prooven one. If you have a single hub only, it would work as well with a press. But this is not a common tool in any house workshop. Stay healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".
Hi, Is it possible to get an online response from your company about your products/service query ? Sent several emails & nobody responded.
Hi Andrew, could be that there is bug in the contact form or you request has been sent to an invalid mail address. Please send your request to our headquarters, we will answer it immediately. We would also appreciate to learn to which country and with which topice you have sent your request to check what's wrong. Best regards, Kai
@@dtswiss Hi Kai, Thanks for your response. I live in the Republic of Ireland. Can you give me a contact email for MTB hub queries in Europe please. Thanks Andrew.
Hi Andrew, please contact the Service Center of your country here:
Hawkswood Lane Killeigh
R35 Tullamore Co. Offaly
Irland
P +3530876502177
w www.dd-mbrs.ie
@ derickdavoren@gmail.com
Best regards, Kai
Very disappointed in the design of the lockring. I just dropped $75 for the removal tool and I can't budge the thing (I'm using a vice as shown in the video). Why did you guys design your hubs to require super-human strength to service? The wheels have about 2000 miles on them so are not that old. Any tips on getting this off without having to invite two of my cycling buddies over to help? I'm also worried that if and when I do get sufficient turning torque, I'm going to damage the rim by causing cracks at the spoke nipple contacts. There's something to be said for Shimano's cup and cone philosophy. Servicing those hubs has never taken more than a 1/2 hour per hub. This has been going on a week messing with it on and off and having to buy an expensive specialized tool. I bought DT-Swiss thinking I was getting a higher quality product but when you factor in the complicated hub maintenance plus costly tools, I really don't see the value proposition. Recently I replaced bearings in my friend's Zipp wheel which also uses a pawl design. That was a simple matter as the lockring ID sufficiently greater than the bearing OD making it easy to press the bearing in without the need to worry about removing the lockring. In my opinion, you guys really should add 100th of a mm or so to the lockring ID to avoid this issue altogether.
I just spent hours trying to get mine off, but i managed to do so with a neighbors vise - the wheels also have about 1-2 k on them and i was worried that all that pressure off the vise will damage the spokes or rim. It is quite ridiculous but im sure you can get it to go with the vise if you turn it (counterclockwise) hard enough. I had to lean my entire body on the turn before it popped loose. and that stupid hub seal that is seated surely doesnt help with braking the ring nut thread free.
@@rexfest Quick update. With the help of two of my friends (yes two) we were able to finally loosen the lockring. The wheel and spokes seem fine, just make sure that they are are in good true first (a rough proxy for having spoke tension in the recommended range). I have a spoke tension meter so I confirmed that way as well as on the truing stand. As for getting new bearings in, you could do a decent job of it with a soft blow mallet and a deep socket that's sized to make contact only with the outer race of the bearings. I used a slightly more elegant (I think) approach of using my BB press with the old bearings serving the role of drivers. That is, the old bearings are perfectly sized to make nice even contact with the new one so when they help push the new bearings in nice and smooth. You do have to do one final tap on the non-drive side however b/c the axle prevents you from using the press to fully seat the bearing (but you can get it in about 1/2 way with the press/old bearing method).
@@stuartsiegel2327 I just used a threaded rod to press in the bearings. i have a 3d printed adapter that i stack on with the bearing adapter for one side since the axle was poking out as you said, but all is well and i got the job done as well. Cheers to rolling on DTs! haha...
Hello Stuart, sorry to hear that there are difficulties removing that stuck ring nut. Please email us at info.us@dtswiss.com and we will be happy to email you some detailed removal instructions that should help.
Best Regards,
Andrew
DT Swiss USA
@@dtswiss thanks for reply. I managed to get it off. I gave it a good WD-40 spray down, waited 24-hours and invited one of my biking buddies over for turning assistance. Between all that, it came off.
This system sucks! We broke our shop vise trying to get the ring nut to break free!
Hello, sorry to hear your shop vise broke. Insert the tool as far into the vice as possible (use the longer wrench flats) and tighten as much as possible. We find that removing the ring nut is a two and sometime three person job. It helps to keep the tire on the rim for extra grip. Secure the ring nut tool ‘firmly’ in the vise, and leave the axle in the hub so that it goes through the tool. Turn the wheel with a sudden thrust of effort and it should break the ring nut free. Another method, and what we do at events when there is no vise, is to have someone hold the wheel vertically on the ground and put a wrench with cheater bar on the ring nut tool. Be sure to orient this so that the wrench is being pushed down.
Please note the ring nut is tightened as a result of pedaling forces. We have never encountered a ring nut that we were unable to loosen using the methods above.
Best Regards,
Andrew
DT Swiss USA
in my opinion this method of installing and removing the bearings is very archaic. hammering the bearings will mark the bearing tracks of the steel balls!
Hello Rodrigo, when the proper DT Swiss bearing installation cylinders are used as demonstrated in the video, only the outer race of the bearing receives any contact from the installation tool. Therefore, there is no damage to the bearing tracks. Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA
DT Swiss AG I'm sorry, I did not realize that your tool introduces the bearing to the outer face of the bearing. Here in Brazil unfortunately the staff still insists on removing the bearing, redoing the grease and returning the same in the hub. That's why removing the bearing through a hammer turns out to be harmful. But only in this case where the bearing is not changed by a new one. TKS for atention!
Hello Rodrigo, yes, we recommend replacing the bearings rather than attempting to re-grease them, because it is difficult to remove the old bearings without damaging the races. Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA
Please send DT Swiss XM1501 Spline RS1 hubs Bearing Service
There will be no video for predictive steering front hub service but you can find this in our ratchet hub manual:
dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf
starting from page 22
Best regards
Ratchet ring DOES NOT COME OFF on a used wheel withough breaking spokes or tools. Additionally, the ratchet ring removal tool is WAYYYYY OVERPRICED. This is a TERRIBLE design. I am sending it in to DT to get the job done under warranty, each and every GOD DAMNED TIME!
Hello County Cycle, thanks for the comment. The key to removing the ring nut is a large, sturdy vise. Clamp the ring nut tool as low as possible in the vise, and make sure the vise is very tight. Usually a couple people are needed to hold the wheel's rim and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the ring nut. We use this method and have never failed to remove a ring nut (and there have been some tight ones)! If you happen break the tool during use, please contact our distributor/service center Outdoor Gear Canada for a replacement. Kind Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA
I found the solution to this, but it requires a few days. Just before the star-ratchet lock ring 'undoing' stage in the video...Sit the wheel level with the ratchet side facing up. Block the hole in the bearing on the star ratchet side and fill with anti-seize spray until overflowing. Sit for 24 hours. At the end of 24 hours tip out the spray and put the axle through the back (inner edge) of the star-ratchet size bearing and tap swiftly a few times to jar the lock-ring. Repeat at least once (block hole, fill with spray, tap to jar lock ring again) and more if stubborn. You'll need a quality vice and if you hear the spokes creaking excessively (a little bit is okay) stop and repeat the process. I got there eventually without breaking spokes or the tool, but did shatter a cheap vice.
such a thirty year old design... where is the bearing pre-load adjustment, so as the bearings break in, you can remove the play? Oh, what? Your disposable hubs don't have that? Why are they so expensive then?
REMOVE THE SPLINE RETAINER AT 4:00 WITH A IMPACT HAMMER *COUNTERCLOCKWISE*. Take the wheel and tool to your local mechanic. Mine did it on the spot for free. Your welcome.
Hi John, with an impact hammer you need to know what you're doing😉 But the advice to ask an experienced dealer is the easiest way👍 THANK YOU, Friso "DT Swiss".
@@dtswiss my local mechanic is a professional and I know personally and professionally the effectiveness of applying some wd40 and then first low to higher power with the impact hammer. The impact hammer was absolutely much better then cranking the wheel manually with my hands and feeling the spokes tension up and creak. Thanks but you guys belong to corporate, we're out here in the real world. Happy landings \o/
Thank you very much. I hope you still can ride your Bike in these crazy days. Hopefully in Switzerland this was and is still possible. Friso "DT Swiss".
Anyone broken anything trying to remove that spline ring?
If the wheel got a good build it should work without broken parts. Friso "DT Swiss".
I don't see the need for this video. First of all, it is kind of evident what to do. But secondly, i never had a customer who's bearings have gone on a dt even after 10 years of use...
This looks so nice and easy on a never used, clean hub. In reality tolerances are off, you will use tremendous force and destroy this hub. It's really a "use-and-discard" product, don't even think about replacing parts in this crap product, and do not spend 200€ in the "so special" tools you'll need to ust disassemble. So disappointed - never ever any DT Swiss on my bikes. From the beginning this hub was not smooth but very, very tight. Trying to change the bearings I ended up with a destroyed hub.
Hi, sorry to hear about the difficulty in servicing your hub. I've never seen a hub "destroyed" during bearing service when the proper service procedures are followed using the factory recommended tools. Please contact your local DT Swiss service center for further assistance.
Regards,
Andrew
DT Swiss USA
Hammering the bearings in is a no-no.
Guy at the bottom had best comment but only if you got the $$/
this is ridiculous design!! Yes it comes off that easy...on NEW HUB!!!!
This is the worst mechanism ever constructed. The look ring gets so thight after riding some month. And you really think one should by a whole set of special work tools for more than 150 Euros to just replace two old 5-Euro bearings (which you will actually sell for more than 30 Euros)? Are you a serious company, DT-Swiss? That's really bad! I would have never bought DT-swiss wheels when i would have known that! Never again...
I asked 3 shops in Berlin and none of them had the toolset! One had only the unlock tool and was not able to open the fixed ring! So there is nothing quick and simple.
I will go Chris King all the way, forever
@@igorgoga7985 CHRIS KING FTW? is their hub service just plain easy? Looking for a video now. Hehe. Thanks, maybe I can find a decent second hand one. Happy Landings o/
you need a $100 special tool to remove #$%@ off
FIRE YOUR DESIGN STAFF!
hubm