Wood Filler & Epoxy SHOWDOWN - 11 products
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- Опубліковано 21 лют 2017
- Confused about what to buy to fill knots or cracks in wood? Us too, so we put 11 wood fillers and epoxies to the test.
Links to the products we tested:
DAP Plastic Wood - amzn.to/2V18gAa
Timbermate Wood Filler - amzn.to/2Lwt9UK
Minwax Wood Putty - amzn.to/2V09Nq8
Titebond II - amzn.to/2JfvRuJ
Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty - amzn.to/2Vflz51
Bondo All Purpose Putty - amzn.to/2Y6Jy3j
De-waxed Shellac - amzn.to/2VhhayA
West System Epoxy Kit - amzn.to/2VcBNvU
Elmer's Carpenters Wood Filler - amzn.to/2V05CLb
PL Fix - No longer available
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Thank you for taking the time to do this vs spending hours at the store trying to figure out what to use for any project I would do. Excellent!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching, Cindy.
At first I thought a voice over with all the information would be preferable, but after viewing at least two of the comparisons I realized by putting it in a visual form this will be so helpful when reviewing this video for future repair jobs. Very smart move, this one is going into my watch list. Thanks for taking so much time to make this video. Love it.
Thanks Linda. I appreciate the feedback. It helps me immensely.
This is awesome! Thanks a lot for taking the time to do this thorough video!
IT looks like there is really nothing that'll completely hide the blemish when you stain!
Thanks Subbu. It was a fun video to make - glad it was informative for you.
Great video and just in time for my workshop's latest effort. Thanks!!!
Great video. I will use the Bondo putty instead of wood putty for my repair. Nice job.
Very nice and fair comparisons! Thank you!
I'm a picky hobbyist. I tend to do repairs on things that are already finished. I tend to use softer fillers so I can sand the filler easier than the surrounding finish. I also tape around the damage before filling & rough sanding. Then pull the tape and carefully finish sanding, trying hard not to disturb the existing finish. Thanks for the product comparison video.
Your technique reminds me of the videos I see from Thomas Johnson furniture restoration. If I had a very special piece to fix, I would definitely start watching more of his videos. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this video!
thank you for the video. i had no idea the minmax wood putty didn't harden. i just bought some and thought i was getting a bargain finding wood pulp that matched my stain. o well. they sell some elmer's wood filler that is stainable now so that will just have to do.
Very well done! Thank you for such a comprehensive demonstration. Wishing you all the best in 2022!
Thank you! You too!
Thank you for taking all that time to show use the various options for filling wood. It was very helpful to me. I would love to see something like this for fixing dry rot. I have a garden shed with dry rot at the base of the entry door beams and also the corner post behind the gutter-both areas caused by contact with too much water..
Hi Diana. I just made a new video showing how I fixed an exterior door that had rotting wood. Here is the link. Hope it helps. ua-cam.com/video/PxkM2Nh-C2Y/v-deo.html
I think that you did an excellent job in describing the pros and cons of each of the products you covered. When bothered me a bit was that those products you said could be stained to match the wood, didn’t really match the color of the wood.
Thank you for a comprehensive, in depth review of the products - I found it very useful
Thanks Martin!
I like durham's..it's very easy to apply and super strong
INCREDIBLE video! Wish I found this one first and saved myself 3 hours. So informative. Right to the point on every product and the text info after each product is so useful.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good and in depth testing of all the products. Thanks for the insight
You're welcome Butters Dad!
Great test and review of all the products and what they do and can't do!
Thx for the well done overview for what products work best for repairing different types of minor wood damage. But it would have been nice if you would have included, the use for wood shaving and plugs in addition to using sawdust. Also the use of screws are useful as an anchoring, large and irregular shaped repairs.
Great comparison video! Thanks so much! This is really helpful for me to choose the right, low cost putty for exterior wood repair.
Glad it was helpful!
This was the only video that actually addressed my problem. I have a clear pine tongue and groove front porch deck painted traditionally in a medium gray gloss oil base paint. I need to repair some gaps between a few of the boards to prevent further damage and then repaint the porch deck. So, Bondo it is. I never would have thought of using Bondo, but I now know it's the best solution to my particular situations. Many thanks.
Lynn Riser - thanks for your comment. Glad it helped! Let us know how it works out with your repair.
When I fix one of my cars I try to use the green fiberglass bondo. It is quite similar to the pink stuff but supposedly waterproof to a much greater extent. To stiffen it you can just chop up some fiberglass matting and mix it in.
L R 1
I use bondo often. It works great for small patches and it dries quick.
I just discovered Duraham's... looks promising. I have been using bondo to fill voids before painting, but hate the smell. Does Duraham's take paint well? I paint my pieces before applying epoxy flood coats. This was a great comparison/demo for all these products. Keep up the good work!
The relative hardness of the final patch may result in adverse changes over time, especially if exposed to the outdoors. The basic wood fillers that aren't as hard as two-part resins may still provide the desired property of leveling cracks and small holes. Large patches are never going to look satisfactory either by absorbing or rejecting stains because the contrast from the natural grain is always evident.
The best luck I have had is mixing Tite Bond II with sawdust from the wood I am filling. I am make sure I have more sawdust than glue and I mix it before it touches the wood. I mix it into a putty and make sure I only let the putty touch where I am filling in.
Durham's seems to be my go-to fix for a lot of projects, and you can really change up the mix ratio to create a stiff filler or really loose to fill molds. There is some shrinkage when you go large. I found your video by looking for more info on 2-part wood putty that comes in a stick, and had forgotten about my industrial sized Durham's can. (So, you just saved me a trip to the store). Thanks!
Glad it helped, Derek! Thanks for the info on Durham's. I really hadn't used it much before I made this video. I know there are a lot of folks that swear by it. I'll have to give it a whirl again.
Very helpful! Thank you.
Thank you so much for making this video. I have a particle board bathroom cabinet that has a little chunk that's come off the bottom. I didn't know what to use to fill it. Thanks to your video, I have now decided to use durham's rock hard water putty, then I'll sand and paint the cabinets :)
Good luck Lisha. I think Particle board might be kinda tricky to repair. Water tends to make it swell and then fall apart, so it would be interesting to see if Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty (water being the main ingredient) would work or not. I think the Bondo might be a safer bet.
+Patrick Parson Workshop OK I was thinking bondo might be the other good choice for this. hopefully I'll remember to post a comment with my results for whatever I try. I may try one in one spot and another in another spot to see the difference.
Lisha Yost - Yes, please keep me posted. 👍
+Patrick Parson Workshop when using the rock hard water putty i was planning on using very little water and making it into a thick paste and moulding it on.
This is such a great video! Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Such in incredibly useful video! Thank you!
Tina Moore - you’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Nice! Thanks for the comparison.
Thanks for watching!
I found when using Durhams mix the stain you will be using into the mixture. I did this on a hole I was filling on a side of a barn and it work great
Thanks Curt! I'll have to try that.
I wondered if adding stain and sawdust to most of them would help some.
Excellent video. Thanks for the attention to detail.
Thanks for watching!
Durhams is great, just starting using it to smooth out plywood.. looking forward to trying it as a cheaper fairing compound on fiberglass molds
What would you recommend for filling frets on a guitar neck? I want to paint and seal it after. Matching the color isn’t important because seeing the fret lines is needed
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thanks Christie!
Great video!
Thanks for taking the time to critique all of those products. You have saved me a lot of time. One of the challenges that I have had in the past was storing some of the wood puttys on my shelf. The shelf life for some of the putty's dry up and turn hard.
So i have learned to use them within 2 months. Thanks again. Great job.
Dax Inventor - you’re welcome. Yes, I’ve learned the hard way about shelf life. For lots of these products, I don’t buy it till I need it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice comparison, one thing to check out is a shellac burn in stick for repairing wood. Always repair dents and dings after it has had finish applied to it so you can see the true color. Also for anyone using bondo there is a new kid in town. It is called OnePass made by Rapid Set. It is water base and waterproof. Sands super easy.
Thanks, Mike! I will have to try both of those. Interesting.
Hey great video thanks, sent me in the right direction of the product I need to use for the correct applications. Awsome
Erin MacDonaldh we
I have some vertical gouges in a cedar porch post. I am in the process of using a darker walnut stain (Readyseal) on the posts. I used Titebond (unfortunately) before trying to stain thinking it would take the stain. After trying to stain, there are many areas that obviously do not take the stain. I'm hoping to sand it down but am wondering what I should use going forward? Also, is there a way to remove the Titebond from some of knotholes? Thanks for the thorough comparison. I wish I would have watched this a week ago!
None of them ended up matching the wood. I was hoping to see that. I still like making plugs of the same wood. You still see the plugs but they match the characteristics of the base wood like grain. The other stuff quick and dirty or for painted projects.
Of all of these the Durhams seems the easiest and cheapest.
Great review thank you .
I like all the different issues that you replicated.
Very helpful. Thanks! :)
It's seems that all of them stated not good for fine wood working. So what do you use for fine woodworking, my guess fine woodworking needs no filler
At 12 cents per ounce, how can anyone want to use anything else for paintable wood projects. That is the best ROI for cost of filler!! Thanks for the comparison... it is always great to SEE the product after installation!
Good stuff! I'm not going to lie, I actually blew on the screen to remove the sawdust on the first demo! I'm looking to fill a 3/16 inch crack on a round oak table, which runs the length of the table. I'm leaning towards an epoxy filler.
haha. Good luck with the table!
What would you recommend to use to repair inside window moldings that my dog chewed ?
Your video is awesome! Thanks for taking your time to show us the differences between all the products .
Marisol, You're so welcome. Thanks for watching! If you are going to paint the moldings, I think I would use Bondo. Good luck!
thanks a lot for this video!
So what would be best to use to fill in gaps in an old pine wood floor (1911 home- floors are currently painted)?
What would you suggest for a bathroom vanity drawer side thats one chunk has come off so how to fill that part with a material that is strong enough to drill afterwards
Thanks. I've been wanting to hear how System Three and West System compare.
i was mislead by another video, thinking that one of their other products (Rot Terminator?) would fill the gaps so now i have to order this Woody stuff. i hope that will do the job. i've already used up my Smith Company filler. thanks, Apple, for making the video come to a screeching halt halfway thru. too much distracting background noise but thanks for the video.
Crystalac also makes a Wood Grain filler. It's amazing!!
I will check that out Kelsey. Thanks.
Very good helpful video.
Very very helpful!
Thanks Patricia. I'm glad it was.
Great job Pat! What would you use to fill a 10" x 4" x 4" void in a exterior pine log?
b cuzz - lots of variables to consider... With such a large void, one option would be to fill it with a piece of pine, cut to fit, and use epoxy to secure it.
Excellent presentation well thought out so what would u use for fine wood working I use crystalac and dye
Tyy Daymon - Hopefully, if I take my time and select the right pieces of wood, I won’t need to use any of these. That said, I might just go with epoxy tinted to the shade of my finished wood. I haven’t done a lot of fine work though. 🙂
would be interested to understand which filler is best for drilling and putting screws in
thank you, I'm working in a red oak front door trim, and need some wood filler, gracias
You're welcome. Good luck Claudia!
Which would you recommend for working with mdf? I'm trying to repair the bottom edges of a dresser drawer that are starting to peel and expose the mdf underneath. I'll be painting over it with chalk paint once repaired. Thanks!
I would go with a simple wood putty, especially if you are going to paint over it.
I appreciate your doing this video as I am just learning about these different products. I have two wooden sets of windows on a porch that our dog has chewed the corners off the windowsills and all along the edges. Replacing them is out of my league and probably unaffordable for me. So, I would like to fill them with one of these products. Could you please make a suggestion as to which one of these produts I should use?
Continued success.
In my humble, and non-professional opinion, I believe the Bondo would be your best bet. It may take a few coats to fill it in, but you can continue to sand and fill until it looks like you want it. It takes paint well and should last a long time. Thanks for watching!
@@PatrickParsonWorkshop - Thanks for your kind response.
The durhams water putty if i use it outdoors and it rains would it Liquified again . I was wondering once it drys and i sand it do i need to put prime then paint it to seal it from getting wet and from coming undone again ?
Very good info 👍. I'm researching fixing imperfections in a walnut gun stock. I plan to do a classic M1 garand walnut stock. I know many gun smiths prefer the shellac with the sawdust. Some prefer a wood filler with color like french red rub it in entire stock then rub off across the grain. After filling the large imperfections some like to do a sanded in oil finish for several coats going up to finer grade every coat then top coat. I really haven't decided yet but one thing I really like is the black walnut Danish oil. It seems to really bring out the grain. I've thought about sanding in the Danish oil from 220 all the way up to 600 then top coat with Tru oil buffing to a satin finish. Have you done much with walnut gun stocks? Let me know your opinion? Thanks for sharing
Hi Brian. No, I havent done a whole lot with gun stocks. I do find it to be a very interesting niche in woodworking. The attention to detail is incredible. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
@@PatrickParsonWorkshop Yes some are very detailed and not much room for mistakes. Lucky for me the M1 garand stock is very simple so as long as I sand gentle I should be fine. They come from factory pretty smooth just unfinished. I think I will be able to finish it to be very nice. Thanks
Which product would you recommend for repairing the door jamb with a mortice misalignment under the striker plate? The void to fill is 1/2" wide and the entire depth of the jamb.
Hello James. I think the Bondo would be best. You could also cut a wood strip to fill the void, glue it in place, and then use the Bondo to fill it in and make it all flush. Thanks for commenting - good luck with your repair!
Very helpful and scientific. Two questions. First, how do each hold up when outside? I once used Minwax filler and the product didn't make it thru one winter/summer cycle without cracking. I called the manufacturer: they said it's not for exterior use!! Second, I have had decent success with WoodEpox by Abatron. Pros: After treating a rotted window sill, the repairs have held up for years. Cons: $$$; takes days to set up.
Hi John! I haven't used many of these outdoors. I think West System Epoxy and Bondo are the only ones. Of those two, West System epoxy held up better. The Bondo shrunk and cracked. The West System did better, but developed a hazy, dull look to it. I should do another video on just products that are meant to be used outdoors. I'll have to check out the WoodEpox. Thanks for your comment.
Someone commented about using BONDO on their porch deck. What about in a cold climate subject to freezing temperature? Could it pop out from different contraction/expansion properties of the wood versus the BONDO?
Good question. I think it it's possible that it could pop out, but I really don't know. I've seen UA-cam videos recommending that Bondo be used outdoors and I would guess that at least a few of those folks get cold weather, but that's just speculation. I would like to see a video on how well Bondo holds up in colder weather. North Carolina doesn't get all that cold. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Coulda shoulda didin't try tinting the Elmer's before applying. Use heat gun to get bubbles out of epoxy when newly applied.
I need some wood fillers, but my problem is I am not gonna paint over it, I am just gonna apply some Wood sealant and I wonder if I can match the wood filler color with the existing window/sash. I wanna believe they sell this product in different colors.
I would recommend the Timber Mate line of wood fillers. They have lots of colors and they work great.
@@PatrickParsonWorkshop Awesome, thanks.
My particular project has longitudinal seams in my walnut bandings, that need filling. They look like a long dotted line (1 1/2 long dots, 3/4 inch spaces). My saving component is they have to be black (black-black), but not sure if my Behlen Jet Black Dye will truly mix with any of the products shown on this video. It states that it can mixed with a Qualalacg Lacquer (Behlen's top of the line clear nitrocellulose lacquer - whatever that is)., Anybody got any ideas...
Which product would you recommend for repairing old wooden floors which after years of expansion and contraction have created gaps between the boards. I am not that concern about color matching, I plan to paint the floors after the repairs. I would just like a solid filler that would provide a solid hard consistent smooth floor.
We recently bought a 75 year old house and we have the same issue. Here is a video I found that shows a product and techniques. It is a flexible epoxy. If you don't go with this product, I think some other flexible epoxy would probably work as well (one that is made for wood floors). Hope it helps! ua-cam.com/video/reuxFdNJcLk/v-deo.html
trying to repair the top of a retro kitchen round table. What would you recommend???
Depends what the top is made of. Every situation is a little different. Depending on what you have, I wouldn't rule out painting it. Sometimes, that is a lot simpler. If you were going to paint it, then that opens up a lot of options for patching and filling voids, because you dont have to match the wood...it just has to be smooth.
Nice job, looking for a "wonder" adhesive, doing hemp fiber research, stuff is tough, adhesive is All ways the weakest part of the composite, thx's
Thanks sir! I am forever experimenting with adhesives. You're right...none of them are ever perfect for any application. Good luck with your project. I'd be interested to know what you decide to use and how it worked.
I use every form of adhesive that I can afford,. lol
some have had extremely good results with hemp fiber, .
Quest is a Great adhesive,.! or stabilizer ..
What do you think of gel stain over stainable primer?
Tee Palazzo - never tried that. Let me know if you try it, I’d be curious to know how it works.
Very informative. Like others, I wondered about System Three and WEST. What about CA ("super glue") and saw dust? I have used it to repair small dings on a guitar body.
I've heard of that technique. I'll have to try it if I make a "part "2 video.
Would any of these work as a grain filler for a small oak cabinet im painting white and needing to smooth out the grain?
Jen A - I think the Bondo would be worth a shot.
Thanks so much
Laying oak floor, rustic style. What filler would you use that can b stained jet black that will shrink and expand with floor? Looking to fill cracks and knots in boards.
Hmmm...not sure. I would go with epoxy I think. It is easy to dye. It should hold up, since it is usually used outdoors (marine applications).
I have never yet seen a stainable filler. Better to use wood flour cement (such as Bona or Glitsa) and mix your stain with your filler, in my opinion. Save your fine sawdust for this.
I have a small crevice about 5 mm long and 2 mm wide and 2 mm deep on a fine veneer top of a dresser. Fortunately the crevice is in a spot of 1 color in and around it.....wat would you use to fill this.....also if I can match it before I put it in I will
Jay Dee - hmmm...not sure. is the piece old or new? If it’s old, you’ll want to be more careful sanding. I would try epoxy tinted to the color of the veneer. Good luck.
Patrick Parson Workshop no its very new.....I actually used dap plastic wood...... and after many attempts to match the brown a brown sharpie marker was perfect.....glad the gouge was so small..... it was a good learning experience
where to buy this item
Excellent work. I'm not a woodworker but I've a 90 year old mandolin with a dozen or so short, minute, length-wise cracks in the ebony fretboard. The entire fretboard is less than an inch wide and maybe s foot in length. These are almost certainly caused by dryness, age, etc., as opposed to trauma, abuse, etc. Which of the products, if any, do you recommend? For purposes of this repair, ignore color matching/ Any help (Commenters included) greatly appreciated!
First, let me say that I am not the best guy to ask about musical instrument fixes, and I don't have any experience making fixes to ebony. That said, I think the only product I would consider using, out of the ones that I reviewed, would be the West System Epoxy (dyed with black dye). And I would only do that after I had done some more research. Here is a link to a UA-cam channel devoted to stringed instrument repair. Good luck, and thanks for the question! ua-cam.com/channels/dr6rJVSSx54ByuY5U2ohTQ.html
What would be stronger and most durable for garage door trim? DAP or Bondo? It is a vertical surface so the epoxy won’t work.
I would probably go with Bondo. It sands really well and should hold up to the elements if it is painted.
What we do without all these different brand names of filler, epoxy, etc? Years asgo, they weren't around and we had to use wood to replace wood rot, cracks, holes, etc.There's almost too many options to choose from now days, ha. I recently bought Durham's Water Putty to repair some pretty large areas of wood rot on the bottom of our door frame and it worked fine.
That's a true statement, Steve. More complicated these days.
Thank you
Informative, precise, and pretty scientific. This was a praiseworthy effort. One suggestion though: please allow your graphic comments to last a few seconds longer. I’m a good reader, but I was unable to finish reading everything.
Thanks! Good advice and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it.
thank you
You were very meticulous with the shellac. It looked like this is your preferred method and have good experience with it.
Yes, I love using shellac. Thank you.
well done
For large cracks to fill ,what is the cheapest and still do the job.
What about Abatron LiquidWood & WoodEpox ? How could you have missed it ?
I've never tried either of those. Thanks. I'll give those a shot.
Very nice
What can I use for 2 foot crack on the outside of my wooden garage door, I can send you a photos
Anytime you are repairing a crack that will continue to move caulking is best.
Great video, so thorough. But I didn't see what I was looking for. My house is 118 years old, and the dining room floor is in terrible condition. Not only has all the finish worn off
... in all the traffic areas. But the wood itself (oak) is deeply worn down in some areas. I used DAP wood filler in the gaps and tried to match the grain pattern using Rejuvenate Wood Furniture & Floor Repair Markers XACT Match, but the Oak is too light even after repeated applications. I faked the grain using Mahogany and some Espresso, but it's far from a perfect match and will definitely need sealant. I'll probably stain and seal the whole floor once I get all the gaps filled. The marker tips are also took big to match the grain exactly. I'll probably get some permanent markers with fine tips from
... an art store.
Have you tried WoodEpox by Abatron? I'd be very curious how that compares.
No, sorry I haven't.
Thanks.
I have used rot doctor, system 3, plastic wood, sculpwood, and Durhams. Durhams is too hard :>)....I have found sculpwood to be easiest to work with...
Love this comparison, great research, SOOOOOOO HELPFUL. I'm looking to fill a bit deeper hole though, so I'm hoping you have a video on that. Blessings
Hi Michelle. A quick thought about deeper holes. If you wind up using epoxy, you will want to make sure that there are no bubbles in it after you pour it. I use a small butane torch to pop the bubbles. I have a few videos where I show that, but there are also many more out here on UA-cam. Good luck!
Maybe adding some sawdust from the same wood to the west epoxy?
I would think that, if you could tint the epoxy and match the color, that would be stronger and look better...depending on the size and shape of the void, of course. Might be worth a try though.
Patrick Parson Workshop I tried some minwax stuff, wasn’t happy with the results. Just looking for a better alternative. Thanks.
Try Patch , if you can find it.
What can n I use on osb walls without sanding
I'm assuming the OSB wall will not be visible from the inside or outside of the house. If so, you can use a lot of things. Any kind of wood filler (the cheaper the better) or Bondo.
@@PatrickParsonWorkshop don't you have sand after putting wood filler or bondo
George a - Are you patching a hole? I haven't seen OSB used for a visible wall...I've only seen it used as an exterior wall that will be covered with siding, brick, etc. Is this OSB wall an interior visible wall?
Scientific! Cool
Thanks!
music was LIT
haha