This was very helpful with my decision on what filler to buy. I’m returning the filler I purchased and going with your amazingly well demonstrated pick. Thank you so much for your extreme patience and dedication!
The good stuff would have also lasted longer if it had primer and paint over it. Thank you for being super patient over five years to show us test results.
Thank you so much for doing this experiment! Very useful information and answered my questions regarding what exterior wood filler to use, where durability and ability to withstand elements is so critical. I appreciate it!
Good Video Scott. I have been using a lot of Abatron the past 2 years for large holes, structural repairs, wood rot, termite damage repairs, and historic home projects. Today, it is my go-to product of choice because it is easy to use and it works. While the price of the system seems shocking at first, the net cost is less if one has to replace wood, hire a carpenter to demo and put it in. Abatron is also the best product I have ever encountered as a professional painter for overhead work. Again, thanks for this video and for sharing your test results.
Thanks for doing this project and sharing it for all of us to learn from. I used PC Woody 2 part wood epoxy on some minor areas of wood rot that was occurring on my deck.First I dug out all the loose rot then I applied several coats of hardener which I let dry for a full day between coats, then filled with epoxy using firm pressure with a putty knife to pack it in the holes.I waited several weeks before I painted a solid stain matching the rest of the deck. It's been over 2 years and still intact with no cracks or loosening and I live in a wet, harsh, freeze-thaw kind of climate. I will try the Minwax that you used on some minor cracks. Thank you!
THANK YOU! I'm gearing up to patch, prime and paint my entry way floor! I had watch a video by Bob V (great video all-in-all) in which he promotes MH Ready Patch for plywood floor patch and paint. I was just getting ready to go out the door to purchase a quart of it, when I thought I would look ONE more time...and I found YOU! Then I found LOTS more DIY reviews that said the same things about MH. Now I'm on my way out the door to buy some Minwax Stainable Wood Filler. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I am going to try the Minwax Kwikwood to fill knot holes and other places on my wood deck, here in Colorado Springs, CO. I used Miniwax products back in humid Virginia, and now dealing with ultra dry conditions at high altitude. Thanks for the 5 year experiments you did that really helps!
Kwik wood was a different brand. Minwax was high performance 2 part, and a ready mix that shouldn't have did well at all exposed to the elements. Depends I guess if it was a water base or not.
Thank you for doing this video. I’m about to refinish an older handcrafted door what is made with 2”1/4 x6 boards. 2nd one I’ve see in this area. I’ve used the Minwax before and I just wanted to see is there anything better. Appreciate the help.
Coating the wood beneath your repair with a liquid epoxy will consolidate it and help that Bondo stick better. If not water will eventually get between the Bondo and wood rotting away around your repair. Been restoring old houses for 40 years and found this out the hard way.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog TRY to use/test the SPACKLING from many new brands like UGL 222 (light), Crawford, Sherwin William spackling plaste for the exterior wood fight against sun, water, durability over n yrs. I tested MH Ready or others they are NO GOOD. Seems Crawford, UGL 222 and SW Spackling plaste is good to fight against WOOD temp contraction/expansion/season changes. I WOULD LOVE TO see u test those 3+ spackling products or more. It's HARD to find a good product to fill EXTERIOR house wood filler for a good paint job last like 20+ yrs (most painters just only remove the loose paint then piant it then 5-7 yrs later need another paint job. I use paint shaver or IR heater or heat gun stripe all old paint to bare wood then such paint job can last 20+ yrs but still we/I have to find a good spackling product to make exterior siding surface fill the imperfects. Wish u also do the same test. I've tested many products but did NOT edit or have time to do more through test like submerge under the rain, boiling water, strong heat over 120 deg F to simulate as sun/4 seasons change/etc). Now I'm wondering why use glue and sawdust to fill a hardwood floor becomes DARK color? What material to fill nail holes won't change color to black/dark b/c seems all wood filler or water or glue using a metal joint knife will cause dark color then I try to use a wood stick to stir or fill nail holes. I'm new to sand hardwood floor this DIY project. Any advice would be big help. Thx.
I probably should have been clearer. The JB Weld cures some quickly that it’s only good for small patches like this. The Abatron can rebuild huge elements and is structural as well so it’s way more flexible to a range of uses.
Wow that minwax wood filler is no joke. I'm only using the high performance one from now on when it needs to hold an anchor or something heavy duty where constant force will be applied.
I have a project repurposing an entertainment center need to fill in between the joints with wood filler then add another veneer over the filler I will take your recommendation and use the winner thank you for the video it helped out!
Such a helpful video!! I was already leaning towards minwax but I wasn't sure which one to get. My issue is not structural but it is outdoors and unsightly and I don't want it to spread any further. Your vids are so user friendly...subbed.
I was looking for information on wood fillers to repair a door jam. Thanks for the helpful information. I Really like your deck railings. Another project I need to do. Can you give me the information on what you used? I like the proportions. Thank you Mary R
I've used the Elmer's two-part epoxy for a few years on rotted T1-11 siding and it has worked well. It also seems pretty inexpensive. On rotted fascia board I just replace with PVC.
I've replaced a counter in my RV with tongue and groove flooring. I need to fill some small gaps and some knots. I'm finishing with tung oil. Would the Minwax Wood Filler be a good product to use before tung oil? And will it tint from the tung oil?
Good lecture! I would like to recommend a product you didn't discuss, Mohawk epoxy putty sticks, similar toJ B Weld, it comes in a variety of colors and you can inter mix them, if you read and understand the chart, fantastic results!
Good stuff; need a test with primer/paint…. I’ve landed on minwax wood filler to patch holes on deck from knots in wood; left on deck for 4 years and has held up shockingly.
Would you recommend the Minwax stainable wood filler for repairing cosmetic cracks/splits in wooden pergola beams? I plan on using solid stain or paint afterwards.
Does anyone know if this could be used in empty screw holes? I have a bureau drawer that needs to have it's slider repaired due to the fact that the screws' became loose after many years. So I am thanking that somehow I can send this filler down inside the screw holes then screw back in the slider bar and it would then have the support it had when it was new.
SUPER helpful, thank you! I have a wooden door I needed to repair, but I wasn't sure which wood filler would be the longest lasting and durable. This helped tremendously
Working on home cabinetry, plan to paint. One small chunk to repair , plus repair around the handles hinges. What would be best? Not a huge job by any means...a vanity for a small bath
I'm looking all over YT and nobody can help me. I'm trying to dismantle a built in cupboard wall, and I need to get to the screws underneath the woodfiller on the back walls. How is that done? Any help or ideas about getting to the screws would be a godsend.
Thank you. Can you recommend a wood filler for a large hole, large enough to fit one or two steel wool pads, something that a novice could use? It is to temporarily fill the hole in a piece of exterior door trim. Later, the door trim will be replaced.
Might just wanna use titebond 3 or some exterior wood glue and screw/glue some actual cut wood in there, then sand/plane it down flush with the rest of the wood and use one for these fillers on the little gaps around the edges of your patch
Yes, 5 years! I can find the 15 minutes of curing time tedious, my mind wandering... did you at least have an iPod for music while waiting? 5 years definitely a record for such a test!
Ended up using the 25$ bucket x3 of the minwax stainable. Excellent product to work with. I used “rock hard” on another project and wondered if it was stainable, this was a painted project w repair
Can a color dye be added to any of these wood fillers? I do artisan hand carved wood bowls from beetle kill pine and other types of wood that have cracks and bore holes that need to be filled. Thanks.
Not much of a "real world" test, but useful and appreciated all the same. For example, MH ready patch shouldn't be expected to compete with 2 part systems, large hole type fillers, etc. You would have seen a much different result from MH had you applied a primer and 2 coats of quality latex paint. I only use it for filling nail/screw holes for painted trim applications. It does very well in those situations. That being said...with the help of this review I will probably switch to the 1 part minwood product for filling exterior nail holes and joints. Especially since it's stainable and could be used in stain grade siding and trim applications as well paint. Thank you!
Before photos would have gone a long way toward showing how it actually held up. Also a little info about prep you did or didn’t do. I guess you’ll have to do it again. See you in 2029
Hmmm do I even need any of these, removed a paint glob from the door and it left a small indentation, when I paint over it the indentation might be more noticeable
The JB Weld stuff looked like it held up really well, so did the normal mini wax stainable wood filler too, The others looked like they had gaps to each of them? MMM That's my two cents.
~~Kwikwood's awesome&only thing I use for smaller blemishes/repairs. Bigger ones there Wood Restore putty is next level or stress enough you best apply&shape it as true to form as possible.* Two of our deck support legs began reveal some splits,3yrs later I've yet to see anymore. The restore continues to hold&is more like iron wood. *Friend learned the hard way&what he gets for not listening. Wood rasp would've taken all day yet easier after using a disc grinder to break majority of it down.
I wish you had addressed the trowel-ability at application. The problem I have is that, as you pass the blade or putty knife across a hole, it pulls the trailing edge of the putty away from the hole over and over. I need large quantities, not a specialty product like JB Weld. thnks!!
I find abatron very easy to use - matching the shape of the wood or simply filling a hole. I found that dipping my putty knife in rubbing alcohol to finish makes it very smooth and helps with the issue you mention. Also, then required less sanding once dry.
@@kimberlybeasley3112 Thank you Kimberly and Scarlet, I had SAME question, have tried several wood putties in past and they were SO hard to apply that I eventually resorted to Spackle type filler, not really for this purpose, but held up ok, better than nothing for sure and I had lots of area to cover. Appreciate tip re: putty knife in rubbing alcohol!
Lol the caption at the end of the video of being up close.. great 👍 😊 🤣🥲 really good video.. thanks for putting the time in for testing.. l would of lost the PEICE of wood ages ago.. hahaha 🤪
I've been doing a stairs makeover. There's a piece of wood that's broken off the above the door that leads to the under stair closet. Just thinking out loud here, I'm a renovation newby, but I'm guessing woodfiller won't work. So I'm thinking, I just saw off the broken bit and replace it with a piece of scrapwood that looks similar. Pray for me that I won't crack more of the wood while sawing off the broken end lol.
Just used the minwax stainable on my deck so thanks for the video (hopefully it will hold up as well as your demo) That took a lot of patience! The issue I had with it is the repairs stick out like a sore thumb unless you use a solid or semi-transparent stain. I guess that would be true with any repair product though
Props for being way ahead of the pack - Not 6 months, a year, 5 years!
Hats off, brother….patience and tenacity you do have! Five years!
Thanks!
Thank you for taking this time to do this test! True dedication right here….it’s very much appreciated buddy!
I use Abatron on my historic home and have loved how it performs.
This was very helpful with my decision on what filler to buy. I’m returning the filler I purchased and going with your amazingly well demonstrated pick. Thank you so much for your extreme patience and dedication!
So glad it helped!
SAME
The good stuff would have also lasted longer if it had primer and paint over it. Thank you for being super patient over five years to show us test results.
thats not the point though. just seeing how fillers do and that horrible stuff will rot under the primer and paint..
@@smartgorilla no it won’t. Lol smh
Thank you for taking 5 years and giving us this great product information
Brilliant. A real time and durability test. Honest and useful information. Must be the longest filming time ever!
Appreciate the well thought through and patient approach to this experiment
Finally, found someone that did this. Thanks for that! You are awesome!
5 years test!!! Good work. ¡Gracias por compartir!
Thank you so much for doing this experiment! Very useful information and answered my questions regarding what exterior wood filler to use, where durability and ability to withstand elements is so critical. I appreciate it!
Good Video Scott. I have been using a lot of Abatron the past 2 years for large holes, structural repairs, wood rot, termite damage repairs, and historic home projects. Today, it is my go-to product of choice because it is easy to use and it works. While the price of the system seems shocking at first, the net cost is less if one has to replace wood, hire a carpenter to demo and put it in. Abatron is also the best product I have ever encountered as a professional painter for overhead work. Again, thanks for this video and for sharing your test results.
Thanks Sky!
Abatron & PC epoxies are the real deal
Thanks for doing this project and sharing it for all of us to learn from. I used PC Woody 2 part wood epoxy on some minor areas of wood rot that was occurring on my deck.First I dug out all the loose rot then I applied several coats of hardener which I let dry for a full day between coats, then filled with epoxy using firm pressure with a putty knife to pack it in the holes.I waited several weeks before I painted a solid stain matching the rest of the deck. It's been over 2 years and still intact with no cracks or loosening and I live in a wet, harsh, freeze-thaw kind of climate. I will try the Minwax that you used on some minor cracks. Thank you!
PC products, great stuff for many decades now. Too bad the big box stores won't carry them.
Love the fact you got straight to the point. Thanks
THANK YOU! I'm gearing up to patch, prime and paint my entry way floor! I had watch a video by Bob V (great video all-in-all) in which he promotes MH Ready Patch for plywood floor patch and paint. I was just getting ready to go out the door to purchase a quart of it, when I thought I would look ONE more time...and I found YOU! Then I found LOTS more DIY reviews that said the same things about MH. Now I'm on my way out the door to buy some Minwax Stainable Wood Filler. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Great, concise review without long diatribe.
I am going to try the Minwax Kwikwood to fill knot holes and other places on my wood deck, here in Colorado Springs, CO. I used Miniwax products back in humid Virginia, and now dealing with ultra dry conditions at high altitude. Thanks for the 5 year experiments you did that really helps!
Kwik wood was a different brand. Minwax was high performance 2 part, and a ready mix that shouldn't have did well at all exposed to the elements. Depends I guess if it was a water base or not.
@@therealunclassifiedi always wonder if the 2part brands are too hard for wood as it moves/flexes over the seasons.
@Aerogrow I don't know. I also wonder if it pops. I also wonder if deck stain solid can go over it or should it get oil primed.
I had separation in cracks I filled with Bondo wood filler but I like it over all.
Perfect video. Looking for a stainable wood filler for my deck that my puppy chewed. Will pick up the Minwax.
I appreciated that video as much as any video I have ever seen..
Thank you for doing this video. I’m about to refinish an older handcrafted door what is made with 2”1/4 x6 boards. 2nd one I’ve see in this area. I’ve used the Minwax before and I just wanted to see is there anything better. Appreciate the help.
Thanks for the time you put in on this video it helped me on my project 90 which product to buy
I live in San Diego right next to the ocean we use bondo and I know it sounds crazy but it really works great as well 🤙🤙👍👍👍
Coating the wood beneath your repair with a liquid epoxy will consolidate it and help that Bondo stick better. If not water will eventually get between the Bondo and wood rotting away around your repair. Been restoring old houses for 40 years and found this out the hard way.
Great review! Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Glad to help!
@@TheCraftsmanBlog TRY to use/test the SPACKLING from many new brands like UGL 222 (light), Crawford, Sherwin William spackling plaste for the exterior wood fight against sun, water, durability over n yrs. I tested MH Ready or others they are NO GOOD. Seems Crawford, UGL 222 and SW Spackling plaste is good to fight against WOOD temp contraction/expansion/season changes. I WOULD LOVE TO see u test those 3+ spackling products or more. It's HARD to find a good product to fill EXTERIOR house wood filler for a good paint job last like 20+ yrs (most painters just only remove the loose paint then piant it then 5-7 yrs later need another paint job. I use paint shaver or IR heater or heat gun stripe all old paint to bare wood then such paint job can last 20+ yrs but still we/I have to find a good spackling product to make exterior siding surface fill the imperfects. Wish u also do the same test. I've tested many products but did NOT edit or have time to do more through test like submerge under the rain, boiling water, strong heat over 120 deg F to simulate as sun/4 seasons change/etc). Now I'm wondering why use glue and sawdust to fill a hardwood floor becomes DARK color? What material to fill nail holes won't change color to black/dark b/c seems all wood filler or water or glue using a metal joint knife will cause dark color then I try to use a wood stick to stir or fill nail holes. I'm new to sand hardwood floor this DIY project. Any advice would be big help. Thx.
Have you ever worked with PC Woody epoxy paste?
Thanks for your test! Why did you prefer the Abatron wood filler over the JB Weld Kwick wood? JB looked like it didn't shrink and weathered better.
I probably should have been clearer. The JB Weld cures some quickly that it’s only good for small patches like this. The Abatron can rebuild huge elements and is structural as well so it’s way more flexible to a range of uses.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Really appreciate it, thank you! I'm working on some 80-year-old screen/storm doors.
Nice experiment. Very helpful.
So, Florida covers the upper temperature ranges, but I need to use in Michigan.
Still, 5 years is a long time.
Have you found something yet?
I have always use 2K polyester car body repair filler. Cures within 20 mins and ready for shaping and sanding.
Wow that minwax wood filler is no joke. I'm only using the high performance one from now on when it needs to hold an anchor or something heavy duty where constant force will be applied.
I have a project repurposing an entertainment center need to fill in between the joints with wood filler then add another veneer over the filler I will take your recommendation and use the winner thank you for the video it helped out!
this is a great experiment, because im also wondering if you have to paint it right away after filling the rot or holes. thank you
Excellent process, thanks for doing this test.
What can you recommend to fill cracks from chopping board
Such a helpful video!! I was already leaning towards minwax but I wasn't sure which one to get. My issue is not structural but it is outdoors and unsightly and I don't want it to spread any further. Your vids are so user friendly...subbed.
Glad to have you!
Thanks Scott! I'm actually going to be using the Abatron for structure on my front porch pillars which have several areas of decay. 👍🏻🙂
WOW great dedication! Love it.
I was looking for information on wood fillers to repair a door jam. Thanks for the helpful information. I Really like your deck railings. Another project I need to do. Can you give me the information on what you used? I like the proportions. Thank you
Mary R
Hi Can I use minwax woodfiller for fences carcks like hairline on deck and deck post .Thanks
Dedicated job, 5 years!? Awesome, thx 1:51
what a great test. Thank you for coming up with a smart way to try out the different products.
Can I use wood filler on lines of cracks
I've used the Elmer's two-part epoxy for a few years on rotted T1-11 siding and it has worked well. It also seems pretty inexpensive. On rotted fascia board I just replace with PVC.
I've replaced a counter in my RV with tongue and groove flooring. I need to fill some small gaps and some knots. I'm finishing with tung oil. Would the Minwax Wood Filler be a good product to use before tung oil? And will it tint from the tung oil?
Good lecture!
I would like to recommend a product you didn't discuss, Mohawk epoxy putty sticks, similar toJ B Weld, it comes in a variety of colors and you can inter mix them, if you read and understand the chart, fantastic results!
stainable?
Thank you. What about something like Dap Plastic Wood?
Good stuff; need a test with primer/paint…. I’ve landed on minwax wood filler to patch holes on deck from knots in wood; left on deck for 4 years and has held up shockingly.
Would you recommend the Minwax stainable wood filler for repairing cosmetic cracks/splits in wooden pergola beams? I plan on using solid stain or paint afterwards.
Does anyone know if this could be used in empty screw holes? I have a bureau drawer that needs to have it's slider repaired due to the fact that the screws' became loose after many years. So I am thanking that somehow I can send this filler down inside the screw holes then screw back in the slider bar and it would then have the support it had when it was new.
SUPER helpful, thank you! I have a wooden door I needed to repair, but I wasn't sure which wood filler would be the longest lasting and durable. This helped tremendously
I’ve some indoor wood filler (Elmer’s carpenter wood filler), can I mix it with some wood glue and use it outside?
love it. that's some good dedication to getting useful information out there. well done.
Thanks so much for this excellent video! Made my life a lot easier. 😊
Working on home cabinetry, plan to paint. One small chunk to repair , plus repair around the handles hinges. What would be best? Not a huge job by any means...a vanity for a small bath
I'm looking all over YT and nobody can help me. I'm trying to dismantle a built in cupboard wall, and I need to get to the screws underneath the woodfiller on the back walls. How is that done? Any help or ideas about getting to the screws would be a godsend.
What a thoughtful and helpful experiment!
Great video! Have you ever tested stainable wood fillers to see which if any, look decent?
So far my favorite wood filler is wood glue plus sawdust from the wood I'm using. Course that's all I got to use so
Wow. What a nice experiment. Thanks so much.
Very helpful and some surprising results. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent document. Long term experiment. 👍
You missed the opportunity to compare it to home made wood files! Now we have to wait another five years to figure that out. Real cool, dude.
so I've run a similar test, and Ready Patch did fine. Your issue looks like adhesion, not failure of the patch itself.
Would be nice to test Bondi wood filler and Elmer's version of epoxy wood filler.
Seems like more brands are coming out with wood fillers and epoxies.
Thank you. Can you recommend a wood filler for a large hole, large enough to fit one or two steel wool pads, something that a novice could use? It is to temporarily fill the hole in a piece of exterior door trim. Later, the door trim will be replaced.
Might just wanna use titebond 3 or some exterior wood glue and screw/glue some actual cut wood in there, then sand/plane it down flush with the rest of the wood and use one for these fillers on the little gaps around the edges of your patch
5 years! that's commitment. wonder how sawdust and pva would have done.
Good question!
Yes, 5 years! I can find the 15 minutes of curing time tedious, my mind wandering... did you at least have an iPod for music while waiting? 5 years definitely a record for such a test!
Thank you this answers many questions I’ve had. Stain-ability ??
Ended up using the 25$ bucket x3 of the minwax stainable. Excellent product to work with. I used “rock hard” on another project and wondered if it was stainable, this was a painted project w repair
Excellent and informative, thank you.
Can a color dye be added to any of these wood fillers? I do artisan hand carved wood bowls from beetle kill pine and other types of wood that have cracks and bore holes that need to be filled. Thanks.
Not much of a "real world" test, but useful and appreciated all the same. For example, MH ready patch shouldn't be expected to compete with 2 part systems, large hole type fillers, etc. You would have seen a much different result from MH had you applied a primer and 2 coats of quality latex paint. I only use it for filling nail/screw holes for painted trim applications. It does very well in those situations. That being said...with the help of this review I will probably switch to the 1 part minwood product for filling exterior nail holes and joints. Especially since it's stainable and could be used in stain grade siding and trim applications as well paint. Thank you!
Great review. If filling nail holes from vinyl siding removal, would you suggest the Abatron, for structural reasons?
No the wood epox is very expensive and the nail holes you are filling are not structural. From this video, I would use the mines filler.
Thank you so much! What you did will help us all so much!!! Super Impressive!
If it's out of sight or will be painted over then Bondo type auto body filler is my choice
This is great! Would the Minwax work for filling in wooden screw holes? Can I make it so the screws go in again? Thanks!
No for stripped screw holes you really would want to plug them with a glued dowel and redrill a pilot hole.
@@justintimmons7613 wonderful information. Thanks a lot
Very helpful. About to start my project and I picked Minwax filler. I got lucky.
Dude! Very impressed with your channel!
dang thanks for this man really good and informative ! !
Based on the results presented, I thought JB weld kwickwood is the best?
Before photos would have gone a long way toward showing how it actually held up. Also a little info about prep you did or didn’t do. I guess you’ll have to do it again. See you in 2029
A follower of the #LongGame ...well done.
What a great test. Thank you so much.
Hmmm do I even need any of these, removed a paint glob from the door and it left a small indentation, when I paint over it the indentation might be more noticeable
The JB Weld stuff looked like it held up really well, so did the normal mini wax stainable wood filler too, The others looked like they had gaps to each of them? MMM That's my two cents.
Thus question has nothing to do with wood filler but what is the name of that low ground coverage on the end of the video?
Not sure. Ha!
What about porch columns.The round part at the bottom just b4 the base shaped like a ring. What is best?
Great test and it helps a lot!
Excelente solo que mire el video después de usar mh ready patch
Was looking to do some wood repair, thanks.........
I've never seen the tootsie roll type. Impressive.
Thanks, I’ve made my decision!!
~~Kwikwood's awesome&only thing I use for smaller blemishes/repairs. Bigger ones there Wood Restore putty is next level or stress enough you best apply&shape it as true to form as possible.* Two of our deck support legs began reveal some splits,3yrs later I've yet to see anymore. The restore continues to hold&is more like iron wood.
*Friend learned the hard way&what he gets for not listening. Wood rasp would've taken all day yet easier after using a disc grinder to break majority of it down.
Wonderful. Thanks for the useful info!
I wish you had addressed the trowel-ability at application.
The problem I have is that, as you pass the blade or putty knife across a hole, it pulls the trailing edge of the putty away from the hole over and over.
I need large quantities, not a specialty product like JB Weld.
thnks!!
Scarlet Pumpernickel appply large amount in the hole , let it dry . Nd sand it down
I find abatron very easy to use - matching the shape of the wood or simply filling a hole. I found that dipping my putty knife in rubbing alcohol to finish makes it very smooth and helps with the issue you mention. Also, then required less sanding once dry.
@@kimberlybeasley3112 Thank you Kimberly and Scarlet, I had SAME question, have tried several wood putties in past and they were SO hard to apply that I eventually resorted to Spackle type filler, not really for this purpose, but held up ok, better than nothing for sure and I had lots of area to cover. Appreciate tip re: putty knife in rubbing alcohol!
Lol the caption at the end of the video of being up close.. great 👍 😊 🤣🥲 really good video.. thanks for putting the time in for testing.. l would of lost the PEICE of wood ages ago.. hahaha 🤪
I've been doing a stairs makeover.
There's a piece of wood that's broken off the above the door that leads to the under stair closet. Just thinking out loud here, I'm a renovation newby, but I'm guessing woodfiller won't work. So I'm thinking, I just saw off the broken bit and replace it with a piece of scrapwood that looks similar.
Pray for me that I won't crack more of the wood while sawing off the broken end lol.
Most of the filler don't last because most wood filler don't contract and expand with the wood. When there is temperature and humidity changes..
so what happens when the filler shrinks, cracks around the edge ( as shown) and moisture then gets underneath?
Right and it continues to rot
Wish you tried Bondo wood filler on the test. Have you tried it?
I have tried it. I used the Minwax High Performance Wood Fuller which is the same formulation as Bondo. Did ok, but not as good as some of the others.
The wood stuck to the bottom of the MH ready patch tells me you did not prepare the substrate
Just used the minwax stainable on my deck so thanks for the video (hopefully it will hold up as well as your demo) That took a lot of patience! The issue I had with it is the repairs stick out like a sore thumb unless you use a solid or semi-transparent stain. I guess that would be true with any repair product though
Could've tried to add the stain to the filler. Very tough thing. Filler don't soak up stain.