How to Fill Cracks and Voids with Epoxy - Getting a Perfect Epoxy Pour
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- Want to get a step-by-step on how to fill a large void or crack with epoxy? We’ll take you from prepping the area and getting a good seal, to mixing epoxy and doing the pour.
In this video we use Stone Coat Epoxy and explain the different formulas available and which to use for your application. We give details on preparing the wood and brush-on sealing which really gets the process going in the right direction.
How to prepare your backer board, combining epoxy, air bubbles, and finish sanding are all addressed. Let us help you get a clear, professional epoxy fill in your project!
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0:00 Intro
0:36 Cleaning
1:57 Seal Coat
6:22 Building the Backer Board
10:49 Mixing the Epoxy
14:00 Pouring the Epoxy
15:23 Finishing out the Project
#EpoxyPour #EpoxyCracks - Навчання та стиль
I love this video. To-the-point, great info and covers a lot of the important points, nice tips and tricks, less effort on intros and effects and just a classic "how to." 10/10
always nice when your youtube rabbit hole leads you to your local wood shop!!! ill be back in soon
Jim Halpert: the woodworker.
😂 didnt get it, remembered 😂 yup
Ive never seen warm as you pour before. Good idea. Thanks.
You’re welcome
Spectacular! Exactly what I was looking to learn how to do. Thank you!
Fun to watch and a very nice outcome. It really is a beautiful piece of wood and you maintained its integrity with your careful application of the epoxy. Cheers, Dave
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I've been looking for a video that takes me through the whole process. You answered many of the questions I have. Especially about the seal coat. My test/learning piece piece is in the garage leaking like a sieve right now. :) Hopefully I do better on the actual table, and I'm sure I will thanks to this video. WELL DONE!
Thank you for the clear and concise video...I'm glad that I watched it before starting my seal coats on my 72" x 24" x 2" live edge Black Walnut top (making either a coffee table or a desk). I had taped one side first with Tuck Tape and was about to brush a seal coat one one side then wait and then start the 1st main epoxy pour. I realized after watching your video that with the small cracks/veins in the wood (some go all the way through) that I would not be able to get the seal coat completely through to the other side and that I would need to flip the board over to seal any parts that remain exposed. I will remove the Tuck Tape from one side, sand & clean, complete the seal coat on BOTH sides, sand & clean, re-tape one side with Tuck Tape, then do complete the main epoxy pour process. Long winded comment to say thank you for posting the video...much appreciated. I am a beginner and found this extremely helpful.
Hands down one of the most informative And easy to watch videos! Great work! Thank you!
Really? He must be the only person you watch…
Fantastic walkthrough. Thanks so much for putting this out there
Glad it was helpful!
great overview...good tips! Just what I need to know.
Excellent Video. Very thorough. Narration enjoyable, I learned a lot.
Very informative video gave me a boost of confidence
Save $$ huge amounts by filling the big voids with clean,broken glass, I've done this many times,it sometimes cuts the amounts of epoxy used in half...think of all that extra cash possibly some faux windows for that no- smiles gray background! Maybe a paint some puffyclouds? Very serious and informative video, keep up the good work!
how do you sand back through the glass shards
@@alanr9634 dont fill in too close to the top of the pour, i.e. were you know were youll be sanding, use it as filler,not as a replacement for the epoxy..
@@alanr9634 you could use a diamond polishing pad when you encounter glass
Great info 👍👍
I have watched quite a few "how to" videos on epoxy resin lateley, and this is probably the best epoxy walktrough i have seen!
Thank you so much!
Please check out Blacktail Studios, Can is way better than this guy.
Vince Dibona, i have seen blacktail studio’s videos. I found this video more usefill for the information i was after😉
@@SweetLifeFilm Then you are oblivious to superior technique. Good luck in life!
Black studios have great videos, but that does not mean i cant find other videos helpfull. I really do not understand your agenda arguing this with me. What do you gain from this, and what is your reason for going after me as a person? That is really low😉
Informative and interesting!! Thanks
Amazingly informative; learned a lot, thank you very much
Nice job
thanks, very helpful
learned alot from this!
Thanks for showing the prep work. Most videos glance over that. I did trial and error and with what epoxy costs, that’s expensive
If you have a crack that extends to the edge of the slab, can you just tape the end in addition to the backer board, or is there some other solution to seal off the vertical part of the edge? Thanks. Good clear video appreciated.
awesome! instant subbed!
Thanks for this vid! I am going to try my heat gun next round. Not that I feel unsafe at all with a torch but last project left a burn stain in the clear so the margin for error is "clearly" there.
Great video very informative
Awesome !!!! I use West System also but I flip my tables over and fill through bottom to about 3/8” to a Melamine surface. Then flip back over
Nice Job Looks great. I have done two live edge slab projects. My first was a bar top for my backyard pub. It was fun and turned out well. It was made to be half inside and half outside with a window I can raise with a pully set up to raise the window in nice weather. After two years the top on the outside portion of the bar started to get a crazed looking surface. Is there a way to fix this or a type of epoxy that can handle being exposed to the suns UV rays?
Great job and thanks for preparing and sharing this project. Quick question, i have a similar slab that has a void in the center. I was wondering why you didnt use bowtie(s). Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.
Thank you first a great video. Can you tell me the type of tape you used on the board? Once again, thx
Do you polish the epoxy somehow for a finish or just hit epoxy with whatever you’re using on wood ?
What grit sand paper do you use to get epoxy level?
What grits did you start with and what grit did you end with for the clear finish?
Thanks so much for your video! I do resin beach pours on charcuterie boards but latey have had to fill some deep cracks and learned the hard way not to use my standard resin! I have a question - Which side was your backer board placed on - the top or the bottom?
The backer board was placed on the bottom side.
Great video - excellent info for a sofa table I'm about to tackle! One question though... some videos use a torch, you use a heat gun - and I like that better, but my heat gun has variable heat settings - what heat level do I use? At least a ballpark?
We recommend more of a medium heat, too much heat will overheat the epoxy and could cause issues.
SMALLER CRACKS AND HOLES....Try shellac or varnish mixed with saw dust from the wood you are working on mixed in to a paste, you get a perfect match....AND YOU SAVE MONEY ON FILLER 😁
Great info video. One question...how do you fill an edge crack where you cannot place a backer board on (live edge)?
Use tape to create a dam is what I've seen.
Thank you so much for this video. Q: If you are going to put a top coat (lacquer) on it, how high do you sand the epoxy to maximize adhesion and minimize any possible showing-through of scratches? Thanks again.
Any type of scuffing helps
What are the proportions of the two epoxy liquids? 1 part gardener to...?
Very clear and informative. What is the best way to fill a void/crack with a live edge open end?
Put the board on edge so your crack is facing upward. Use gravity to your advantage.
Did you pour your second coat right away? Or did you wait a bit and then do it? And what would you use for a top coat? Would you varathane or use an actually top coat epoxy?
Why not use a permanent backer board to reinforce a thin (1 inch) top board? Any issues with that? I'm thinking ahead to attaching the legs.
great video with clear instructions. What would you use to fill small cracks, knots and voids that don't go all the way through?
If they are very small cracks maybe an 1/8 inch or less I would use Star Bond super glue with excelerator, if they’re much bigger than that I would use epoxy as well.
Yes! I saved this video for my future work with epoxy.That slab was beech?
Black Walnut
You should check out Blacktail Studios, Cam is much better than this guy.
My kitchen guy did a raw edge slab for my countertop and did not fill in the voids with epoxy. It is installed. Is there anything I can do now?
Fill it with epoxy? ;)
shouldnt pour twice, they form as seperate layers that dont attach well. you can literally peel them apart with your fingers. always mix more than you need.
i had that issue with a section of bathroom floor. the microscopic gap layer drew moisture in and it all seperated. literally lifted it all up in one go using my hands.
ime making some speakers out of some very old wood that has a huge crack down one plank, hopefully i get it fixed up as well as you managed there.
i have to say the thought of expanding epoxy is a worry, i have some electeical grade that doesnt expand or contract at all, but thats expensive stuff. have you had any issues with it expanding and spreadig the crack further? or has it all been good?
Can you add color to the casting epoxy to darken it?
Yes, most color the epoxy. Just look up epoxy tables on YT, you will see all sorts of colors.
so what was the stuff you put on last to make it pop
That was Waterlox! You can check out a couple of our other videos that talk about Waterlox and how to apply it.
Why fill from the small finished side where bubbles come up to the finished side? A better easier approach was to seal the smaller opening on the top and then flip board over and pour epoxy into the much larger opening on the bottom. Bubbles migrate up to the bottom/unfinished side of the wood.
Yes that is true, except for the small side was the top of the table which means we don’t wanna be screwing our board onto the top.
Then don’t use screws. Clamps are a thing, you know.
Do you have an opinion on using some black dye in the epoxy to darken it or do you like the crystal clear look?
@@markwisniewski8141 I prefer clear in darker or even medium tone. If you can darken the bottom of knot or crack, clear is better on lighter also. Keeping in mind clear shows bubbles far more than black. A tiny amount of black dye goes a long way. Lots of personal preference here.
@@gcarlton great thanks for the advice
I haven't priced your filler yet,but isn't that expensive? Buy another board and cut the rot out.
Cost is not an issue. The goal is not to make the board look blemish free, is to work with what you have, keep the character.
*pour. 😉
(My English degree is worthless, unless I help my fellow travelers w/keyword searches.)
Thank you!!!
Warm your shop before you mix your epoxy,
you will also reduce humidity by running room heater and humidity control is vital to cure epoxy. Your technique of using a heat gun to warm the epoxy seems inexperienced.
Folks, Cam over at Blacktail Studios does a much better presentation than this guy.