The Durham's has the HUGE advantage of eternal shelf life. I bought a BIG can of it at least 20 years ago; it is stored in my high humidity Florida garage and it is still perfectly fine...whereas the damn Elmer's Wood Filler is bad within a very short time after opening it.
I always keep a can of it for that exact reason. They put it on the bottom shelf at most big box hardware stores because it outperforms most big name products but is super cheap and last forever if stored properly.
We had a squirrel come down our chimney when we were away. It chewed all the trim around every window on in our kitchen and living room in an effort to escape. The insurance wouldn't cover it and my repair job was horrendous. This was before the internet and UA-cam, so I couldn't find any sage advice like yours at the time.
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for as a newbie DIYer. Most other videos on this topic spin right pas nicks, dents, and gouges in door frames and baseboards and right on to painting. My house was built in 1960, so has lots of wear. Cheers from across the strait in Victoria.
This is why I subscribe to this channel. I’m a Canadian Journeyman Carpenter but I do commercial concrete formwork and never get to mess with stuff like this. You have made my home Reno’s go smoother. Keep up with the great videos.
I do love Durman's. When lumber was very expensive I had some 1940's 2x6's, tight grain almost no knots that had been ceiling joists but they had some termite surface damage...long since not active. Filled with Durman's, sand, paint. Used them in a coffered ceiling...super. Yeah I mix to "putty" like on the label. If anything I often mix a little too dry. No trouble mounding, never had to do 2 applications. Never seen bubbles...suspect the bubbles were because of too wet mix.
‘At some stage you have to move on with your life’ - Very funny and so true. I’m looking at all the little DIY jobs to do in my house. I think I need to put my attention on more important things like my kids.
No Bondo? By the way, I saw an article where some furniture makers used carpenter’s glue with the Durham Rock Putty. They used it as a skim coat on wood to achieve a super smooth surface before painting.
I swear by Bondo body filler. You can load up the hardening paste and it will cure in 5 minute. Sands super easy and you can finish the thing in half an hour. They make version for wood that is thicker for vertical surfaces too.
@@UnvarnishedTarnishedthe Bondo wood filler doesn't stink really at all when we use it! I mean I wouldn't use it for Cologne! But it didn't stink like that auto body repair Bondo that I was used to using...
The best wood repair product I've found is abatron wood epoxy. It's basically a 4 part system. 2 part thick liquid epoxy and 2 part putty. The liquid acts to consolidate and prime but you can mix it into the putty to dial in the consistency. Once set it is very workable. I mostly use this stuff outside repairing rot. The cure time is kind of long. I'd probably just use rock hard on your project. Maybe Bondo if I needed to be done in a day
Really enjoy your videos there young man. I just discovered your channel. I have been doing autobody for 35 years and for larger repairs on wood that is going to be painted Evercoat 100850 body filler is an excellent product not only for steel but for wood as well. 3M and a few other companies make good products for this application.
I use Bondo for exterior repair on damage like this. The fillers that they use (besides the resin/hardener) reduce shrinking and are easier to sand out. I'll use scrap PVC trim for "formwork" to get good corners in one coat. Usually have to go back over with exterior spackle for bubbles/voids.
Same. Rock hard is also really useful in a ton of ways for craft projects etc.. and you can smooth it with water before it's fully dry, you can carve it after it's dry, you can mix it thinner and pour it into molds. It's nice to have it on hand because it can perform multiple duties. And I will say rock hard is REALLY rock hard... This makes it really good for filling holes where wood screws pulled out... like the inside cabinet door hinge on the snack cabinet. Years of overzealous kids opening and closing (and maybe putting some downward pressure on an open door) cause that sort of vibration based screw hole widening until it fails. Filling with rock hard really makes you comfortable the hole won't widen again until new people own this house. Counterpoint to that, you will need pilot holes because a wood screw won't get through it. It doesn't do well as very thin layers, but I like it in a situation where you let it set up a little and then while it's still damp you can shape it, and then smooth away tooling marks with water before it fully hardens.
After years of working with all types of wood fillers I almost exclusively use the Durham's in interior applications. I'll use Bondo outside, especially for larger fills.
I have used the Durham's product for years after losing faith in all the other wood fillers that are available to the average wood worker. A couple of years ago I discovered that you can use Titebond mixed with the Durham's powder to make incredibly tough patches in just about anything. Try it for yourself. I used the Titebond/Durham's powder combination to fill large gaps in a 4 foot long, dual tapered ramp, that I use to get my heavy Rogue weightlifting bench up onto the aluminum plate that forms the bottom inside the rack. My garage floor is very slanted in two directions. I constantly wheel this heavy bench with hard plastic wheels over this crazy ramp made with multiple strips of plywood and poplar. I filled all the gaps using the Titebond/Durham's mix, then ground it smooth using a combination of 60 grit sanding wheel on my angle grinder and a 100 grit disk on my random orbital sander. I then primed and painted the finished ramp with white latex primer and paint and put it into use. After 2+ years of abusing the heck out of this ramp, the filled the thickly-filled gaps show no signs whatsoever of scratching, cracks or separation of layers. This stuff is nearly indestructible. Be for-warned however that this combo filler is VERY hard when dry. If you just want to fill nail holes, I would suggest using only the Durham's powder with water as directed.
@@jamesgoens3531 It is pretty forgiving. I always mix to get the consistency that I want. You can dilute the glue with water if you what a more liquid-like consistency, or use the Titebond straight from the bottle with the Durham's to make a paste (which also can be as thin or thick as you want for whatever you are doing depending on how much glue you mix in with the Durham's). To fill large gaps and voids, go with a thicker paste, but that will set up fairly quickly, so just slap it on and deal with the grinding and sanding later.
DAP plastic wood and brush on BIN shellac primer. The plastic wood can be sanded and coated in literally just a couple minutes. When you brush on this primer you get more buildup without the overspray so you have a better chance at getting a one and done blend with the surrounding surface. Fast, easy, and very durable patch IMO and I have been doing it this way for years for all sorts of wood repairs. The only downside is that since plastic wood uses acetone it will start to harden in the can very fast if left open. I have been able to reverse this by just mixing some more acetone back into the can and haven't noticed any ill effects to doing so.
@@mvmcali6900 If it does spread very easy add a bit of acetone and mix it up and it will be back to how it should be. Also always mix when you open the can and store upside down like it says to on the can. To get cracking I'm assuming you did a single deep fill. With this product you really don't want to do more than maybe 1/16" at a time with a large patch. It seems to be fine deeper with something like filling screw holes but outside of that keep it thin and then it only takes a few minutes before you can put a bit more on.
another nice video.. Ive had good luck with minwax wood filler. The consistency is a little fluffy so it depends on what you need to use it for. Rebuilding an edge might be challenging but filling holes is great.
Believe it or not man, super glue with baking soda and fine far dust mix into the story glue makes a story super fast and hard filler!!!! I was able to easily match up the design features and repair complex detailed trim with complex and fancy router cut edges etc!
I think my favorite is DAP wood filler. It dries pretty quick and doesn’t shrink too much. And I have used it on deep fills, specifically pocket holes. I have never had any cracking with it. If the product in the container has dried out over time, it can usually be rescued by mixing in a little water. I don’t find it to be all that stainable, but since that is a failing of all the wood fillers I have ever used, I don’t hold that against it. Minwax has a similar product, but had a rather course texture almost like fine sand which I did not care for. It made filling small and shallow dents and holes more difficult. Bonds type things are okay, but are more inconvenient because of the mixing and fumes. For something really big, like filling a missing piece of a corner, it is probably a better product the DAP or Minwax fillers due to greater strength.
I have been using ready patch for years especially on damage trim that had oil base gloss paint sticks like crazy , yes it takes multiple coats but when sanded it looks great I add tint to it to easily sand it I use 3m stick it sand pap On wooden blocks that match the profile
For small interior work, use drywall mud. Cheap and easy to sand. For bigger fills, start with a setting compound (Durabond 90 or Sheetrock 20, 45, or 90) then finish with drywall mud. Never had an issue in 35 years.
I swear by the Durham's. The reason I like it is because you can mix it to whatever consistency you want. For this type of repair I would mix it thick almost like glazers putty. I wouldn't even bother with trying to form it or putty knife it. I would fill it by hand with way more than needed and sand it smooth when dry. guaranteed one coat.
Only problem with Shaq was if he wasn't within arm's reach, he couldn't sink it. Anyway, I like these comparison videos. It saves us a lot of time and money.
Fix-it-all is a patching plaster, probably about the same as the water putty? Water mix, sets in 30m or so. Quite cheap. Any patching plaster or wall plaster that is a powder mix is similar. Very hard, sands well. I have plaster on buttonboard walls so I have used it for years, works just as well on wood as on walls. For the 2nd coat to fill little holes or dips I like the quick dry spackle.
I don't have much experience with wood filler, but I had good results with Liquid Wood. I was a little frustrated with the consistency of it as it comes in the can because it kind of wanted to roll around and pull away from the edges of the holes when spreading it with the putty knife. It's got acetone in it, so thinning it quite a bit with acetone gave me something I could work a little better with a putty knife. Even thinned out the acetone evaporates pretty quickly so there is still a pretty limited amount of shaping you can do with it before further attempts become counter productive. On the top of my sewing desk where I was filling on the top along the edges and wanted a nice corner the bulk of the filling was done in 2 coats and another 5 or 6 coats to build up the last bits along the edge to create a nice corner.
in general a little thicker on the water putty is better. u can run the same trick, with the dual knifes, I have taken to having a spritzer bottle with me, about 4 of them acetone for bondo, mineral sprits for silicone, water for latex, and water putty, plaster, u let it get to leather hard and retool the material its when the material gets to be a little bit on the way to setting that you go back over it and get it smooth
It’s really hard to beat durhams water putty. The Elmer’s probond stuff with wood fibers is also good for these kind of repairs. I use the standard Elmer’s for nail holes. I tried bondo one and it stunk up the whole house.
no shrinking and it never goes bad ..since you mix it when you need it...this means you always have it in stock......thats what makes Durhams so good. It's also inexpensive.
Autobody glazing putty. Its like bondo but the final application or for small work on cars. It doesnt smell like bondo but is still 2 part and hardens in about an hour
I like Dynapatch pro it dries hard but isn't super easy to sand. The DAP Alex Plus spackling isn't as hard but sands way easier. Both products are white so depending on where you use it you can sometimes get away without painting. If I think the area will take future abuse I go with dynapatch otherwise I'll just use the ap spackling.
Tin Foil Hats at the ready....they put filler in round tins to make it difficult to get the last 10th out of the tin. I have started bying bulk tins and decanting all my fillers into square tuperware pots that nest nicely into my tool box. I find its much easier to load my putty knife and knock out the air against the straight edge.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Lately I have been mixing the filler on the door lining near the hole to be filled. The carpet is covered with carpet protector, plastic with a low tack adhesive. Its a bit tricky mixing on a verticle surface but you soon get the hang of it.
Have you seen Project Farm the youtube channel? He does exactly this kind of testing for other products if you haven't; he's great. I like your take on things too, and product testing is something I'm always interested in seeing especially if you feel like you've got something to contribute to the zeitgeist of information!
I use Bondo and lots of others using it. Any downside to using it? Anyone have it fall off wood in some applications? I drove small finishing nails in the edge of a drawer face that was broken ( the drawer fell on the floor) and wound wire on the nails then used Bondo. I have never trusted it to bond with wood.
A bit surprised the epoxy failed in this experiment. Usually the problem with epoxy is is making sure that it's not going to drain out somewhere, being so runny. When it does work, 2pt epoxy can perfect for knots, cracks, missing slivers, etc. as long as it is relatively small. It dries fast too. In your case, the epoxy wouldn't work anyhow as runny as it is, gravity would work against you.
Even new frames and doors aren't perfect, I'm sure your solution was good enough with no obvious issues unless someone went looking for imperfections . Like you said, at some point, you gotta move on with your life.
The Durham's has the HUGE advantage of eternal shelf life. I bought a BIG can of it at least 20 years ago; it is stored in my high humidity Florida garage and it is still perfectly fine...whereas the damn Elmer's Wood Filler is bad within a very short time after opening it.
Same....oldie but goodie.
I always keep a can of it for that exact reason. They put it on the bottom shelf at most big box hardware stores because it outperforms most big name products but is super cheap and last forever if stored properly.
We had a squirrel come down our chimney when we were away. It chewed all the trim around every window on in our kitchen and living room in an effort to escape.
The insurance wouldn't cover it and my repair job was horrendous. This was before the internet and UA-cam, so I couldn't find any sage advice like yours at the time.
I remember going to the library to look how to fix my truck. I hasld to make a photo copy to take the info with me lmao
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for as a newbie DIYer. Most other videos on this topic spin right pas nicks, dents, and gouges in door frames and baseboards and right on to painting. My house was built in 1960, so has lots of wear. Cheers from across the strait in Victoria.
I like these types of test videos. Unbiased.
This is why I subscribe to this channel. I’m a Canadian Journeyman Carpenter but I do commercial concrete formwork and never get to mess with stuff like this. You have made my home Reno’s go smoother. Keep up with the great videos.
I do love Durman's. When lumber was very expensive I had some 1940's 2x6's, tight grain almost no knots that had been ceiling joists but they had some termite surface damage...long since not active. Filled with Durman's, sand, paint. Used them in a coffered ceiling...super. Yeah I mix to "putty" like on the label. If anything I often mix a little too dry. No trouble mounding, never had to do 2 applications. Never seen bubbles...suspect the bubbles were because of too wet mix.
‘At some stage you have to move on with your life’ - Very funny and so true. I’m looking at all the little DIY jobs to do in my house. I think I need to put my attention on more important things like my kids.
You know your videos is good when Ai recommends it for a visual guide
No Bondo? By the way, I saw an article where some furniture makers used carpenter’s glue with the Durham Rock Putty. They used it as a skim coat on wood to achieve a super smooth surface before painting.
Good stuff. This guy makes it easy to watch and compare.
I swear by Bondo body filler. You can load up the hardening paste and it will cure in 5 minute. Sands super easy and you can finish the thing in half an hour. They make version for wood that is thicker for vertical surfaces too.
Bondo is awesome but stinks to high heaven and would not ever use it inside my house. It's a polyester resin, horrible fumes.
Polyester resin literally smells like the devil. I agree it's good stuff, but not for interior projects.
@@UnvarnishedTarnishedthe Bondo wood filler doesn't stink really at all when we use it! I mean I wouldn't use it for Cologne! But it didn't stink like that auto body repair Bondo that I was used to using...
@@negotiator96
Same I used it last night and it is levels below the original
The best wood repair product I've found is abatron wood epoxy. It's basically a 4 part system. 2 part thick liquid epoxy and 2 part putty. The liquid acts to consolidate and prime but you can mix it into the putty to dial in the consistency. Once set it is very workable. I mostly use this stuff outside repairing rot. The cure time is kind of long. I'd probably just use rock hard on your project. Maybe Bondo if I needed to be done in a day
Really enjoy your videos there young man. I just discovered your channel. I have been doing autobody for 35 years and for larger repairs on wood that is going to be painted Evercoat 100850 body filler is an excellent product not only for steel but for wood as well. 3M and a few other companies make good products for this application.
I use Bondo for exterior repair on damage like this. The fillers that they use (besides the resin/hardener) reduce shrinking and are easier to sand out. I'll use scrap PVC trim for "formwork" to get good corners in one coat. Usually have to go back over with exterior spackle for bubbles/voids.
Do you have any pics of the form work? I am trying to picture this. I need something like this to make
The Durham's is also great because it doesn't dry out. I've had a can for more than 10 years. I used some just last week and it still works great.
No doubt! I’m excited to try a few different things with it.
This is why I've been using it for years. On a big job I'll buy a tube of filler but I always keep rock hard around for quick repairs.
Same. Rock hard is also really useful in a ton of ways for craft projects etc.. and you can smooth it with water before it's fully dry, you can carve it after it's dry, you can mix it thinner and pour it into molds. It's nice to have it on hand because it can perform multiple duties.
And I will say rock hard is REALLY rock hard... This makes it really good for filling holes where wood screws pulled out... like the inside cabinet door hinge on the snack cabinet. Years of overzealous kids opening and closing (and maybe putting some downward pressure on an open door) cause that sort of vibration based screw hole widening until it fails. Filling with rock hard really makes you comfortable the hole won't widen again until new people own this house. Counterpoint to that, you will need pilot holes because a wood screw won't get through it.
It doesn't do well as very thin layers, but I like it in a situation where you let it set up a little and then while it's still damp you can shape it, and then smooth away tooling marks with water before it fully hardens.
I still have the can I bought before I got married. I'll be married 35 years in July.
Durhams is how I was raised, I've used a lot of others but I always go back to it. I mix a bit of sawdust into it as well.
After years of working with all types of wood fillers I almost exclusively use the Durham's in interior applications. I'll use Bondo outside, especially for larger fills.
I have used the Durham's product for years after losing faith in all the other wood fillers that are available to the average wood worker. A couple of years ago I discovered that you can use Titebond mixed with the Durham's powder to make incredibly tough patches in just about anything. Try it for yourself. I used the Titebond/Durham's powder combination to fill large gaps in a 4 foot long, dual tapered ramp, that I use to get my heavy Rogue weightlifting bench up onto the aluminum plate that forms the bottom inside the rack. My garage floor is very slanted in two directions. I constantly wheel this heavy bench with hard plastic wheels over this crazy ramp made with multiple strips of plywood and poplar. I filled all the gaps using the Titebond/Durham's mix, then ground it smooth using a combination of 60 grit sanding wheel on my angle grinder and a 100 grit disk on my random orbital sander. I then primed and painted the finished ramp with white latex primer and paint and put it into use. After 2+ years of abusing the heck out of this ramp, the filled the thickly-filled gaps show no signs whatsoever of scratching, cracks or separation of layers. This stuff is nearly indestructible. Be for-warned however that this combo filler is VERY hard when dry. If you just want to fill nail holes, I would suggest using only the Durham's powder with water as directed.
What’s the ratio of glue to filler? I’ve used Durham’s for many years and have had good results with it. Thanks
@@jamesgoens3531 It is pretty forgiving. I always mix to get the consistency that I want. You can dilute the glue with water if you what a more liquid-like consistency, or use the Titebond straight from the bottle with the Durham's to make a paste (which also can be as thin or thick as you want for whatever you are doing depending on how much glue you mix in with the Durham's). To fill large gaps and voids, go with a thicker paste, but that will set up fairly quickly, so just slap it on and deal with the grinding and sanding later.
It's like you read my mind! I was looking for how to repair my wood trim.
Cheers and best of luck with the repair!
I'd be interested to see a similar experiment with outdoor use filler.
OMG concept of using wood and tape to make the edge awesome. Is there a video that shows that method?
The Elmer's is my go to for filling nail holes in trim and for bigger jobs. Yeah it does shrink a bit, but texture and sandability is great
DAP plastic wood and brush on BIN shellac primer. The plastic wood can be sanded and coated in literally just a couple minutes. When you brush on this primer you get more buildup without the overspray so you have a better chance at getting a one and done blend with the surrounding surface. Fast, easy, and very durable patch IMO and I have been doing it this way for years for all sorts of wood repairs. The only downside is that since plastic wood uses acetone it will start to harden in the can very fast if left open. I have been able to reverse this by just mixing some more acetone back into the can and haven't noticed any ill effects to doing so.
I feel that dap plastic wood doesn't spread very easy and it cracked on me when I filled a large void
@@mvmcali6900 If it does spread very easy add a bit of acetone and mix it up and it will be back to how it should be. Also always mix when you open the can and store upside down like it says to on the can. To get cracking I'm assuming you did a single deep fill. With this product you really don't want to do more than maybe 1/16" at a time with a large patch. It seems to be fine deeper with something like filling screw holes but outside of that keep it thin and then it only takes a few minutes before you can put a bit more on.
The Funny Carpenter how do you use "Richard" pallet/filling knife ? 1:20
I find that Bondo is better for the bigger holes and gaps!
Excellent recommendation- is there a type or brand you recommend?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter here is a video you may find interesting:
ua-cam.com/video/QXlEEqL4CEg/v-deo.html
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Canadian Tire house brand is good enough.
Just don't forget to wear a mask with this stuff. It stinks worse than a sewage treatment plant.
I’ve heard some folks use bondo. Have you ever used bondo as a wood filler? If yes, what were your results? Thanks
I like this video! Are you trying to go the "Project Farmer" of carpentry!? If so, count me in!
Thank you! I do think I'll make some more of these type videos, they dovetail pretty nicely into the way my mind works.
another nice video.. Ive had good luck with minwax wood filler. The consistency is a little fluffy so it depends on what you need to use it for. Rebuilding an edge might be challenging but filling holes is great.
Believe it or not man, super glue with baking soda and fine far dust mix into the story glue makes a story super fast and hard filler!!!! I was able to easily match up the design features and repair complex detailed trim with complex and fancy router cut edges etc!
GREAT VIDEO....off to buy some good old Elmers wood filler ❤👍
Great video as always bud! Really needed this when i was doing my door and window architraves, its looking great! And have a great weekend bud! 🍻🍻
I think my favorite is DAP wood filler. It dries pretty quick and doesn’t shrink too much. And I have used it on deep fills, specifically pocket holes. I have never had any cracking with it. If the product in the container has dried out over time, it can usually be rescued by mixing in a little water. I don’t find it to be all that stainable, but since that is a failing of all the wood fillers I have ever used, I don’t hold that against it.
Minwax has a similar product, but had a rather course texture almost like fine sand which I did not care for. It made filling small and shallow dents and holes more difficult.
Bonds type things are okay, but are more inconvenient because of the mixing and fumes. For something really big, like filling a missing piece of a corner, it is probably a better product the DAP or Minwax fillers due to greater strength.
I like that same wood filter. Bondo cures a bit to fast for me. Haven't tried that water putty yet.
I have been using ready patch for years especially on damage trim that had oil base gloss paint sticks like crazy , yes it takes multiple coats but when sanded it looks great I add tint to it to easily sand it
I use 3m stick it sand pap
On wooden blocks that match the profile
Awesome comparison, thanks dude!
I have a can of that water putty that's been in my shop for years lol
Try timbermate filler. It's good stuff.
For small dents and holes I use white glue mixed with sawdust.
For small interior work, use drywall mud. Cheap and easy to sand. For bigger fills, start with a setting compound (Durabond 90 or Sheetrock 20, 45, or 90) then finish with drywall mud. Never had an issue in 35 years.
I swear by the Durham's. The reason I like it is because you can mix it to whatever consistency you want. For this type of repair I would mix it thick almost like glazers putty. I wouldn't even bother with trying to form it or putty knife it. I would fill it by hand with way more than needed and sand it smooth when dry. guaranteed one coat.
Only problem with Shaq was if he wasn't within arm's reach, he couldn't sink it. Anyway, I like these comparison videos. It saves us a lot of time and money.
Automotive bondo mud is the way to go. Even professional wood shops use Bondo.
Fix-it-all is a patching plaster, probably about the same as the water putty? Water mix, sets in 30m or so. Quite cheap. Any patching plaster or wall plaster that is a powder mix is similar. Very hard, sands well. I have plaster on buttonboard walls so I have used it for years, works just as well on wood as on walls. For the 2nd coat to fill little holes or dips I like the quick dry spackle.
I don't have much experience with wood filler, but I had good results with Liquid Wood.
I was a little frustrated with the consistency of it as it comes in the can because it kind of wanted to roll around and pull away from the edges of the holes when spreading it with the putty knife.
It's got acetone in it, so thinning it quite a bit with acetone gave me something I could work a little better with a putty knife.
Even thinned out the acetone evaporates pretty quickly so there is still a pretty limited amount of shaping you can do with it before further attempts become counter productive.
On the top of my sewing desk where I was filling on the top along the edges and wanted a nice corner the bulk of the filling was done in 2 coats and another 5 or 6 coats to build up the last bits along the edge to create a nice corner.
Are you talking about abatron's products? If so it's a great system. That's all I use outside
I've had some luck with JBweld KwikWood Putty, but I'm only a weekend warrior type guy
in general a little thicker on the water putty is better. u can run the same trick, with the dual knifes, I have taken to having a spritzer bottle with me, about 4 of them acetone for bondo, mineral sprits for silicone, water for latex, and water putty, plaster, u let it get to leather hard and retool the material its when the material gets to be a little bit on the way to setting that you go back over it and get it smooth
Auto body filler (Bondo) would have worked very well for that application. Fast drying, no shrinking, works well.
Looks great from my chair 😁
Looks like your boy imitated Shaq even down to destroying backboards. 💪🏻
It’s really hard to beat durhams water putty. The Elmer’s probond stuff with wood fibers is also good for these kind of repairs. I use the standard Elmer’s for nail holes. I tried bondo one and it stunk up the whole house.
I’ve never been a fan of wood filler because of its consistency but it sure does the job well..
no shrinking and it never goes bad ..since you mix it when you need it...this means you always have it in stock......thats what makes Durhams so good. It's also inexpensive.
Durhams works best, I've used it to rebuild chewed out wood door frames and repair termite damage. It stays rock hard like me.
Forget the damage, that spider at 4:38, I’m burning the house down
Would Arbatron have been overkill for this?
which one was the best?
Autobody glazing putty. Its like bondo but the final application or for small work on cars. It doesnt smell like bondo but is still 2 part and hardens in about an hour
PC Woody is my go to filler. It's wood filled epoxy. Dries hard and shapes and sands easily.
Great tip as that stuff has good ratings in a few places. Added it to our list of things to buy for some projects we have going on.
Love PC Woody. No fumes. Sands beautifully. And you can shave and form it before it fully sets up. Tools cleanup easily with acetone.
What color paint is your home?
Have you tried useing Bondo? Cheap and quick.
He eliminated Bondo about a year and a half ago.
Was about to say this!
I have not used it, but definitely need to try it out. Is there a particular type you recommend?
But remember to work very fast! That stuff will start to set up in literally about 3 minutes and sandable in about 15 minutes.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter PC Woody is better
I like Dynapatch pro it dries hard but isn't super easy to sand. The DAP Alex Plus spackling isn't as hard but sands way easier. Both products are white so depending on where you use it you can sometimes get away without painting. If I think the area will take future abuse I go with dynapatch otherwise I'll just use the ap spackling.
I always use one of these:
1) Minwax 2 part epoxy wood filler
2) cut out the damage and replace with Poplar
Try Platinum Patch next time. It's right up there with Durhams in my book.
The wood form seems like the way to go. Or 3D print a special putty knife corner forming thingy.
Tin Foil Hats at the ready....they put filler in round tins to make it difficult to get the last 10th out of the tin. I have started bying bulk tins and decanting all my fillers into square tuperware pots that nest nicely into my tool box. I find its much easier to load my putty knife and knock out the air against the straight edge.
That is a solid hack- I like it!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Lately I have been mixing the filler on the door lining near the hole to be filled. The carpet is covered with carpet protector, plastic with a low tack adhesive. Its a bit tricky mixing on a verticle surface but you soon get the hang of it.
dynapatch is nice cause its hard like wood filler but its white. its so hard its used to patch metal too.
Bondo worth looking at too
I would have used Dry Dex Putty. Goes on pink, turns white when it is dry.
Automotive bondo,- kicks quick so there’s hardly any wait time, almost no shrink, good layup consistency, only downside is the harsh smell.
Have you seen Project Farm the youtube channel? He does exactly this kind of testing for other products if you haven't; he's great. I like your take on things too, and product testing is something I'm always interested in seeing especially if you feel like you've got something to contribute to the zeitgeist of information!
Thank you!
"At some point.. you gotta move on with your life" 😂 UA-cam channel name checks out
Thanks mate🍻
I use Bondo and lots of others using it. Any downside to using it? Anyone have it fall off wood in some applications? I drove small finishing nails in the edge of a drawer face that was broken ( the drawer fell on the floor) and wound wire on the nails then used Bondo. I have never trusted it to bond with wood.
Durham's! I have been using that stuff for over 30 years. I even make chess pieces out of it.
The wood putty contains plaster, which helps explain the hardness of the cured product.
Timber Mate???
A bit surprised the epoxy failed in this experiment. Usually the problem with epoxy is is making sure that it's not going to drain out somewhere, being so runny. When it does work, 2pt epoxy can perfect for knots, cracks, missing slivers, etc. as long as it is relatively small. It dries fast too. In your case, the epoxy wouldn't work anyhow as runny as it is, gravity would work against you.
JB weld woodstick!!
IT GOES TO 11!
🍻💯
damn the double putty nife technique
it sucked!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter maybe like a little square or something could work
Glue and sawdust
If you like Elmers….. I like Elmers and B-I-N spray. Thanks Funny Man from south of the border.
Elmers wood filler always dries in the tube for me.
I think a new board would have made an excellent filler.
Abatron LiquidWood and WoodEpox
Love it - at some point you just have to move on with your life.
i think spackle would have worked if its not too deep
Bondo wood filler
👍👍👍
Even new frames and doors aren't perfect, I'm sure your solution was good enough with no obvious issues unless someone went looking for imperfections . Like you said, at some point, you gotta move on with your life.
Bondo