As a remodeling contractor in NorCal I've been using all-purpose bondo as a filler for my finish carpentry. I also use it for rot repair, except in most cases I apply Minwax liquid rotted wood stabilizer prior to filling with bondo. The liquid stabilizer fills the pores and hardens the remaining wood fibers in the repair area, making for a more solid repair.
P R thank you so much for this comment. I have one wood support on my patio (decorative) and part of it is rotting out. I don't know how deep yet but taking your advice.
And the Oscar goes to... YOU for how this door looks. I just bought a 1932 cottage with tons of termite damage. Thanks for giving me a taste of my future!
Thank you so much for this video!! It was so thorough and easy to follow along. We have been stressing about our door and planning on replacing it. I had been avoiding it because I like the door and I knew it would be expensive. Finally called around and the cheapest I could find was at least $2000 because we have an odd sized door. I have loved our door that is original to our 1930s home. It adds so much character to our house. I got my husband to watch this with me and less than $100 later our door is looking good again!
This was an incredibly helpful video, especially for those who don't have a lot of extra money to spend on house projects. I'm amazed at all the negative comments, but then again it's the internet and everyone has an opinion, even trolls 😄
There are purist perfectionists out there who did not realize this was a very low budget repair for those who have no money and not a lot of time to get it fixed.
I really appreciated your methodical approach to fixing a rotting door. I also liked your sense of humor throughout the presentation. Your video has saved me big bucks $$. Thank-you for your advice.
Wow. I am impressed with how many comments you reply to. What more could viewers ask for? I really enjoyed the video and even enjoyed your side comments. Of course there are other ways to do repairs. Some better some worse. But I found this interesting. And, you're not the only one using Bondo for these types of repairs. Many craftsmen have been doing it for years. Don't listen to the haters. Keep up the good work!! I just ordered some Bondo.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching Edward. Yes, we find the people who complain the most are ones who snub their noses down on poor people or others up against a time critical schedule. Not everyone has skill of Norm Abrams, so here we simply showed the most basic DIYer how to put lipstick on a pig.
@@jeffostroff so anyone who gives a little criticism or a pointer to you is a snob? You are posting on a social media platform. Also comments are likes are encouraged, you have accept negative comments as well.
@@jeffostroff my bad "snub" their noses down on poor people" and whats the critical time period? Norm Abrams would never drop all that filler in a door, I think you are too sensitive to post your own work. Your door came out fine, just a little fine tuning with the filler application, just sharing knowledge thru advice ...thanks for replying
@@xbrizzcakez No really? Norm Abrams would never drop that stuff in a door? I guess you never paid attention to the beginning of the video where I said this is lipstick on a pig not a norm Abrams restoration. So your comments don't bring anything value added to the table, As you are just repeating what I already stated. As for the other guy that I had to hold him accountable for snubbing his nose down at the poor people yes there are poor people that can't afford norm Abrams, there are poor people that can't afford to go buy the new door,. My friend was in a jam he had to have that door repaired that day because he was going out of town and people were coming to look at the empty house. It would have cost $1200 to put a new door there if you want to send the money I would be happy to go back and re do it and puts a new door there and that way you have a Norm Abrams project that looks perfect.
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Just happened to find this video this morning as I was wondering how to prep first layer of bondo for a second layer. Have some rotted wood on my boat. Thought I’d try your trick to stuff the gap with masking tape then fill with Bondo. Worked great! Thanks and this video has earned you a subscription.
Glad I could help! I hope it survives the movements of the boat. Let us know if anything goes wrong. With the board I might have suggested using spray foam, depending on how deep you had to go.
Do not use blue tape to fill the gap since the bondo will not have support and will crack by the edges. Use pieces of wood instead off and you will get a solid support. Do not use blue tape to form the edge of the door. Use a strait edge ( any piece of wood cover with cling wrap). Use a bondo file to smooth the surface. Do this before the bondo be full cure and stay soft but not sticky yet. I had been fixing rotted bottom doors, bottom rotted door frames and house siding rotted board, using this technic and remains good forever and never rotted back in the same place again.
@@joseph7105 great tip with the oil, read it too late though :-D just in the middle of a 1920's door remodelling, had a big seethrough (58mm) you cannot find anywhere now, so I had to fill the hole up. Cut 4 pcs of wood to size, glued them together and put them in, than 2k putty. Put a board to the bottom and when i took it off, the bottom part of the putty came along :-D
do you think i could use bondo to form a corner on a door? Or does it really need the wood or alike on either side to have a chance of lasting? Thanks!
@@vojtechsobolik9536 loool that sucks, dude. Reminds me of the time I emailed the inventor/seller of a certain kind of tuning peg for flamenco guitars. His instruction involved the use of Xylene. Nearly two weeks later, he emailed a second time to mention that xylene melts plastic and whatever I do, not to get in on any part of the guitar. Thanks for nothing, dude. It's a good thing it wasn't a $5,000 handmade flamenco guitar or anything.. _attacks peg guy with the nearest blunt object and an equal portion of homicidal rage_ Really, though, I should've done more research. But still, that's the kind of warning you like to get around the same time as the instructions for use as opposed to much later
Thank you!! We have a bay window with about 2 inches in length of wood rot in the window trim and I have been stressing thinking the entire window would need to be removed and replaced. This is a great video with easy to follow directions. Also laughed for a solid 5min when you mentioned “This old House” because I watched a video from them explaining how to fix wood rot and I thought I would have to by the $200 joint compound mix.
Buy the Abatron Wood Epox 2 part epoxy fluid and apply it to the wood, allowing it to tack up before you use the Bondo. Or even better use the 2 part putty instead of Bondo in the Wood Epox kit. You'll thank me later - trust me.
Jeff awesome DIY repair turning a seemly impossible dry rot into a "swan" of a door ! Very useful step by step instructions. Try to watch ur DIY repair vids. Kudos for upload. Will incorporate ur instructions in my own dry rot fascia repair. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
I have been using a small window squeegee, like what is sold for showers, instead of a spackling tool for my finish work before painting. The squeegee eliminates the lines that are caused when the hard metal spackle tool skips over any hard nub. Once dry you can push out any high spot. I haven't used this on the bondo. But will try it to see if it works. I used a two part auto bondo to repair my crumbling septic tank 15 years ago. It's still holding apparently.
Glad to help in just make sure since you probably have more time than I had when we were doing this use either expanding foam or chunks of wood with glue to fill the void in the door
Thanks for showing this! Forget all the negativity- you said flat out that this is the quick and crappy way to do it. Everyone here’s acting like you were doing a paid job. I have a junky old door that I’m going to do this with. Hope it looks as great as yours!
2 years of visits add up. If it was $7,000 for one day or week of work, I could see that being outrageous. Try getting 1 or 2 bridges over a few weeks of time and paying the same. I think a full mouth rearrangement is worth the cost.
I wonder, could this same principle be applied to rotted wood on the outside of a home? We restored a 100 yr old home, but it has some rotted boards under the guttering that’s are rotted!?
Couple things. Rather than unscrew the hinge you can do a couple things to free it. Heat works great. Heat gun or torch work well. Metal soaks up the heat and the door getting black marks won’t matter since you are painting it..... You can also use two crescent wrenches each on a different knuckle of the hinge jam side leaf to break that rust free. Metal expands a lot from heat. Rust doesn’t expand or flex. Instead of using tape take your cut waste and pack those in. Can add a little bondo as a cement or glue to hold the wood in and the end result will be very strong. If you are filling vertical holes with bondo make sure you have foil backed duct tape with you. After filling smooth a piece of the tape over with a trowel larger than the hole. The foil stays ridged so you can fill even large holes in 1-2 fills. Keep a razor scraper with you. Once your finger nail barely indents the bondo carefully scrap the bondo flush to the finish surface SO MUCH TIME AND DUST SAVED! I like to mix the bondo with composite shins. If I use an actual putty knife I put a layer of tape over the knife. I can reuse the shim every other mix mess free or I can peel the tape once I’m done. Store you mix be sure your ready. If you drip bondo it’s best to let it dry. Like a paint drip rubbing or scraping will work the wet product in.
@@stlalways6715 good tips. The reason why I did not use any of the wood that was removed as because rotted wood as fungus in it you don't want to keep that fungus inside the door that's what causes the rot.
I just used your technique and it worked brilliantly! Thank you!! I just wish I did not use the Bondo with fiberglass, but oh well, at least it will be even stronger. Just the sanding was sanding fiberglass, so I did it outside away from anything it could get on. I added some contractors mesh inside to give it even more strength.
This is exactly what my back door looks like on my 110 year old craftsman home. The dog tore it up it already had some rot. I can't find a door like the one that's there so I have to fix it. Like you showed, I have two plywood panels to hide the damage. I'll do this tomorrow. Thank you for the demo.
You likely have more time to work on a denied did so make sure you do it even better than this and use small pieces of wood and glue where we used the balls of take
You can always build a door from scratch just need the right woodworking tools to cut the stiles and rails as well as the panels. But on a door like this exposed to the elements id use a rot proof wood like Cypress or ceder if you can afford it an alternative wood that mimics moghongany might be red gruddas its cheaper and about a rot proof as they come unless you get into some of the high end woods.
I have a relatively simple problem of dry rot in the desert SW. The three hinges pulled out of the door jam on an exterior 30" x 80" door which houses an auxiliary heat pump. It is a heavy duty steel over wood door, and the other wood ends and sides appear to be intact. I think this will be more than adequate. The house is about 45 yrs old. Thanks for the tutorial
Impressive. I love the idea of using tape to fill the gaps - that is so creative. I just did something similar with some foam insulation tape used to fill in mortar gaps prior to caulking with concrete caulk.
The bondo seemed like more work than just cutting the center out and replacing the wood. I do use and like bondo myself; the same company makes a fiber reinforced filler as well that is stronger for larger gaps. You can get bondo poly resin that soaks in to rotted wood first to get a slightly stronger bond and end product. I also use DAP Plastic Wood filler; it is solvent based and sets fast as a single part mix. I also use an epoxy wood filler that’s 2 parts and works like a thick putty. Bondo is great with doors though because it is strong and you can both drill and if needed tap it. You can mix in Xylene about 5-10% to the bondo first than add hardener and actually inject the bondo; it just takes longer to set up but it works great for tougher to get in areas.
Yes, but a lot of work and time and effort too in order to get the right thickness wood to put in there, then you need all sorts of wood tools, planing down the wood to the right thickness, we had to do everything in that afternoon for my friend. I wanted to just replace the door, but it's a non-standard size, $350 to order it, 3 months to wait for a new one, then permitting, and hurricane non-sense, would have been over $100= at the end.
Non-standard doors suck; I had to fix an 84x36-1/2 because there was no easy/inexpensive fix. You can do a lot with a router and table saw but yes wood fixes take longer than bondo as even some of the fastest glues can’t compare to bondo. I gave gad good luck though with CA glues and UV cure liquids for fast fixing. A spring popper works great on hinges too, especially the bottom hinge where you don’t always have a lot of working room to get a good swing.
I cut the rotted sections out, and put blocks of timber in them because I’ve got a pet door in mine and I wanted to strengthen the door a bit More, my hardware store in Australia, recommended I use filler instead of bog, glad I watched this cuz I knew bog would be better. Although now that I’m finished I’m not sure about the bog, I couldn’t get a meat finish on it, using those trowels is really an art especially when you’ve only got a couple of minutes to finalise it and especially when you gotta create an angle, the whole bottom edge of my door was caved in, so I had to build it up to match the rest of the door, I tried using tape but it kept coming off, so you can clearly see all the bog after I’ve painted it, I don’t have an electric sander either so that probably doesn’t help. I also couldn’t get the bottom pin out from my door, it’s too close to the ground, so I took the screws put of the door, cuz I have a metal door frame and it’s got pop rivets to the frame, which I don’t have a lot of experience with so I don’t really want to touch. Have you got a link for that door pin remover?
What bog product did you use in lieu of Bondo Vincent? I’ve contacted 3M and they’ve told me they don’t supply Bondo here in Australia and they couldn’t recommend any of their other filler products for timber applications.
I've used Bondo to fill minor imperfections in wood. If the wood shows rot damage, I'll clean as much of the rot as practical, use a bit of wood hardener resin and then the Bondo. That door has way too much rot to fill with Bondo. I would have hung a new door or if the customer insisted on repairing the old door, I would have replaced the bottom rail entirely.
Loved the video and your channel! I have a antique door similar not nearly as much rot just a little. Filling it all with bondo. To your other rude commentors. No i do not want a new door. This one is perfect and just needs some TLC. So glad i stumbled upon this video. How would you seal the windows in a old antique shaker door ? It has 6 windows on top. Want to make sure it is sealed. Caulking?
Raquel it's important to understand the difference between caulk and silicone. So caulk is basically used interior use only on baseboards, door molding, etc. But for anything around kitchen sinks, bathtubs, windows, exterior doors, they use silicone because it is 100% water proof, whereas caulk will dry and crack. Many installer and builders incorrectly use caulk on bathtubs, which is why you often see caulk on bath tubs eventually get cracked, and black with mold. If you choose a silicone for the windows, either try clear, or if you need white for a white door, you can try that too. Just be aware most silicone cannot be painted, some can however, so make sure you are aware of the limitations. I don't have any expertise in that, because we mostly replace exterior doors here in FL with solid metal doors no windows. You might try some youtube video from skilled craftspeople who know their stuff and repair these doors.
Window glazing is used for glass. Silicone has ZERO UV inhibitors and so the sun deteriorates it. You can also use Phenoseal caulk, it is made for exterior functions. Paint keeps the sun off the glazing or caulk. You can call us rude but for me it is like a doctor operating on someone wrong. No one may die here but whomever paid for that did not get a repaired door, and will have the same problem all over again.
This is an amazing job you've done. My carpenter just stuck two plates on my rotten doors and now looking at all the work you put in, I see why he's not doing a similar job. i would do it myself but that's a lot of sanding. Thanks for sharing this. That door really is a piece of art after you're done! Gives me some hope for my doors!
i just use my trusty nail set to hit the pins up and out, and i'd bet those plates contributed to the wood rot, there were gaps at the top and no where for it to weep out effectively
Yes, the plates are a waste, the owner had put them on there before when there was some rot starting to form, but most people are unaware that fungus that causes wood rot gets trapped in the moisture behind the plate, also humidity in the air down here is brutal and gets trapped in there as well. This new primer and paint job should protect it well for years to come.
Buddy, a little more care and you could have inserted some blocks of hard wood. Pin the hardwood then skim with Bondo, reinstate the drop lines and paint. About the same time and a lot less Bondo, less sanding and would last 5 years longer, gives the customer what they expect.
I’d be pretty pissed if I found out, as the homeowner, that there was tape stuffed into the door. At least pack it in with wood epoxy putty. I’m not sure how I feel about it. Good thing you used bondo and made some kind of repair. The mass majority of contractors in south Florida would rather cause more damage to the door and call it a repair, like the metal plate, than to actually fill in the door.
When removing hinge pins you should start with the bottom pin and move up because the weight of the door will tend to keep the lower hinges in line making removal of the top pin fairly easy. If you start at the top and work down you will have a bear of a time removing the bottom pin because the weight of the door is working against you as it tries to fall away from the jamb causing misalignment of the hinge components. That's what happened to this fellow. A cone stone like that in a low speed drill is quite likely the most useless tool you could possibly try because it plugs off with debris in literally seconds which causes the abrasive cutting edges to be ineffective. In fact of matter, stones should never be used on soft gummy material for this reason. Stones work on the principle that they must wear away to expose fresh abrasive. If you must use a rotary cutting tool use a carbide burr instead or better yet, just use a good old fashioned wood chisel or gouge and finish with a rotary burr. When it comes to working with bondo you should never mix it on a porous absorbent material like wood as it draws the liquid component out of the putty and causes faster curing. He should have used one of those kick plates he removed from the door. You should also have a much better handle on how much hardener to use. Using too much hardener also causes the putty to lose cohesion and it breaks away easier. When mixing bondo, you don't stir it. You use your putty knife and you scoop it up and lay it over on itself like you would if you were making bread dough. Stirring bondo is time consuming and will frequently give you a poor mix because the hardener is mixed through the putty inconsistently. You don't use your putty knives to take down "cheese" hard bondo. You use a cheese grater rasp. (www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Cheesegrater-Adjustable-Position/dp/B0013HHSIQ/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=bondo+file&qid=1589137555&sr=8-12 ) It's faster, more precise, and won't gouge your surfaces. If you started to sand bondo that is that uneven in a body shop they would laugh you out of the shop. That's why you use the cheese grater. Bondo is great stuff when used properly but it does have a few failings. One of those failing is it has little strength without a good backer. If one was to accidentally bang or kick this "repair" there is a good chance it would cave in because the only backing it has is masking tape and air. He should have pulled as much of the tape as he possibly could and filled completely with bondo to avoid the void. This fellow fails miserably on all counts. Then at 27:32 there is that comment about how the door edge sits down low and the weather stripping will cover it. That sort of describes everything you will see here. It is the mark of a true blue scab tradesman. You know, the kind of guy who always cuts corners and always produces substandard work. He's the Mechanic that scabs brakes on cars that have accidents later. He's the Autobody guy who doesn't fix the rust but putties over it and paints it so it looks good for a couple of months. He's the Electrician who uses whatever wire he has around even if it's too small a gauge for the load. He's the House painter who doesn't prime new raw drywall so that he needs to use twice as much paint and gets a streaky finish. He's the Drywaller that hangs sheet any old way and relies on the Taper to fix his mess. The kind of guy that shows up to do your work but somehow never has the right tool for the job so he "improvises". "I don't need no stinking chisel! I have a slot screwdriver for that!" You all know that guy......... As far as subscribing.......I seem to remember something about a snowball chances in hell. This is totally amateur night and if you hire this guy or someone like him you are paying far too much for too little. Crap is crap and just because you put lipstick on it doesn't make it less of a pig.
Actually, what you didn't see in the video, I started on the bottom pin, but it was so stuck, and hinge so close to the ground could not get any mechanical advantage tapping upward with a hammer, and it actually broke my pin popper, because it was so tightly jammed in there. You saw win the video once the door was laying flat, how hard it was even with the best mechanical advantage angle and the hammer to really pound that pin out of there. Once the pin was sanded, lubed, and reseated, it was much smoother.
Scooter Tramp Hey Scooter that was a long winded reply. But a damn good one and well said! This is the end results of doing hack work. Receiving negative comments from professionals like ourselves who cares about the quality we give our customers. It’s too bad there’s people like this guy that doesn’t give a damn except for making some quick money! He claims their wasn’t enough time and the customer needed it done immediately. Myself, I would have said “no thanks “ and walked away as any honest carpenter would have! You’ve got my thumbs up for making a “ well said” reply!
@@Oldtimecarpenter You both missed the point of this video, the train left the station, you weren't on it. I specifically said at the start of the video this was a lipstick on a pig repair, I stated this is not a Norm Abrams restoration project and to go elsewhere if that is what you're looking for. As a "professional" you claim to be, you certainly lack the ability pay attention to details and you lack situational awareness. Both of you are so high on your own arrogance you can't see what's really happening. It has nothing to do with pride of quality, or me being sloppy, my friend the owner of the house already moved out of town, needed this door fixed the quickest possible way in a few hours as part of a huge punch list. Did not want to spend any money on it. One day when I do one of my preferred style repairs, we'll upload that video. But snobs like you don't understand when someone wants just the quickest basic cheapest repair, this is what they do. You snub your nose down at them.
jeffostroff The bottom line is you don’t care about the quality of work you do! So the sucker buying the house now has a door that won’t last a year! It makes me wonder if your tool box is filled with bandaids along with whatever repairs you performed on the house. You know that was a complete hack job and I’m more concerned about someone watching this video thinking this is the way to quick fix decay. It’s clearly NOT! That door ( referring to the bottom rail ) is trash and for little money more, a new door could have been purchased! It’s obvious you know little about carpentry and even less about quality and building standards!
We used this putty only for little cracks. In this cases, we used to replace the missing wood with a piece cut and shaped to fit in place. The putty gets broken easily when the door slams
Yes, wanted to do wood, but no tools there, and no time had to be done that day no trips to the store, etc. We really wanted to replace the door, but custom size and order, and months waiting list.
@@jeffostroff you made it work with what you have. "ideal conditions" aren't always the case.Thanks for showing us a way to solve a problem outside of ideal conditions.
In place of tape, the blue/green/pink soli insulation (not styrofoam) could be cut to fit in less time than the tape, I retained left over pieces from insulating the interior of a horse trailer and picked up a few small pieces curbside. But of course the tape may be OK but it could if it gets moist allow mold to grow.
Thanks for the tip on the Bondo: you're right that wood putty is useless. The door came out great. I'm wondering, though, that because it's still a wood door, and it's still FL, would it be beneficial to install another plate to prevent future rot?
Hi Debbie I doubt the plate was put on there to protect the door, I believe it was put on there to hide the existing rot that was on there. Wood rot is actually caused by a fungus with the presence of moisture so I doubt that even having a plate on it would help and it, unless the door sees a lot of rain and needs a splash guard, just makes doors look unsightly. Your best bet with doors is to make sure that it has a good solid top coat of paint on it and that the paint never wears down because once it does you invite fungus and other possible calamities to your wood door.
I appreciate quick fix videos like this and do not mean to be crapping on this DIY repair. However, I would recommend filling with something else other than tape because tape has a "non-stick" surface which is sort of like grease paper. The non-stick side function is so you can peel it off itself on the roll. If you've ever seen any DIY with epoxy they will tape with packing or cellophane to provide mold release against the epoxy in any project. For this purpose, using other fillers would be much better for longevity. I'm sure it held up OK in this repair but when you use bondo, you really want it to stick as much as possible even below the sanded surface.
Listening to a wood rot video, fungus causes the decay to wet wood. Was going to epoxy after spraying with clorox solution to keep fungus down. Have never used bondo. Will try. Great explanation!
Hi Jeff. Great vid. I have a wood cabinet with rotted wood but the problem is the rotted wood is on the bottom corners of the cabinet. How would I fill it up with bondo and restore it to the same shape? In your vid the tape works as the rot is in the middle bottom layer. But I'm battling to figure out how best to handle the corners(it's a big chunk of rot that I need to get rid of). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
I don't think Bondo will carry a load. Look at some of the other versions of bondo that have fiberglass fibers in them to strengthen it, see if that helps. Check their web site for engineering info on whether it can handle the loads.
It looks wonderful. How long do these types of repairs last? I've only recently started using Bondo on wood, I love the stuff, best filler ever. I just wonder how long my repairs will last.
@Tom Wood That is correct Tom we have a number of commenters here who have comment that it is gonna crack in a few weeks but these guys have no idea about this new bondo, they are still thinking of their grandfathers bondo from the 1970s.
Great video! I always use a surform plane to take most of the Bondo off before it gets fully hardened. It makes the sanding much easier and faster. I learned that from watching auto body workers.
Thanks for the tutorial! During an exterior paint job I accidentally got myself into fixing a rotten front door just like this! Hopefully it turns out great just like yours. Any tip on how to try to make a wood like texture??
Do you have a video dealing with the same sort of problem but using expanding foam as the filler? I have a wooden vertical bean that has holes where it was nailed to the exterior. I am going to use foam as the filler and then top it off with bog (bondo). Cheers.
No I did not make avideo with foam yet, but you can use expanding foam, but you have to wait overnight for it to cure before applying the bondo over the top. We did not have the luxury of time it had to be done same day.
Terrific video - I love that you had to seal the doorframe to keep the cool air in 🤣🌞. I have the exact opposite problem here in the UK 🥶🌬☃️. Thanks for all the fantastic tips - really appreciate you sharing your experience/ knowledge 🙌🏻👍🏼
I've used aluminum foil instead of tape for this kind of gap filling. It works well with body filler. On a hot day, like 80 or higher, you'll be lucky it lasts two minutes after mixing. I've used just a smidgen less hardener to extend the time. How much is a smidgen? It's a bit less than itty bitty.
My preferred method is courses replacing the door but my friend wanted it done like this. But next time I would be using expanding foam that's typically what's inside many doors anyways.
This is what I’m looking for. Never work with wood filler. I built a desk for my girls. 1st major project and I mess up a little bit with the wood. I end up with a small hole on top of the desk and need to fill it in b4 I sand and stain.
Jeff I live in Broward County and have the metal and glass impact doors with wood inside of them. A couple of my doors have some rot was curious on how to attack these type of door.
We have done that before as well we're on the metal doors we try to sand down to get past all of the rotted rusted metal, and then we apply bondo to smoothen it out and sand it and paint it. But you might find that you have so much rusted metal that it doesn't make any sense to try to sand down because you're going to end up going through all of it in that case you have to just replace the door. but the important lesson to remember here is to always make sure your doors are painted with a good paint a primer and a good solid paint that will withstand the elements. And as soon as you start to see the paint wearing down it's time to repaint. What happens with most doors is the people let the paint fade and it becomes chalky and then moisture is allowed to get in so the paint fails to protect the door anymore.
Honestly, after all of that work for what looked like it took at least a couple of hours wouldn't it just have been easier to buy a new fiberglass or steel door and paint it? I have the same issue that has occurred at the bottom of a wood utility door on my garage. One of my brothers-in-law has done body repair work for years and uses Bondo to repair lots of things, so I'm familiar with it. But to hire a handyman here and have him do all that work would cost nearly as much or maybe even more (depending on the handyman) that buying a new steel door!
We wanted to buy a new door here, but this is a 40 year old non-standard size ultra skinny door with window, no longer allowed under hurricane building codes. This would require $350 purchase of new hurricane rated door, waiting several months for delivery, then getting all necessary hurricane permits and inspections which could easily run well over $1000. Now you may have to re-frame to fit door to satisfy hurricane strength requirements. Most contractors in our area charge you $350 to file a permit for a door. Then you have to turn in all sorts of wind mitigation reports along with the door to get approval, then the insurance company wants all sorts of wind mitigation tests, signed off by a GC which costs another $150. But since you have all that extra money lying around, by all means pursue that avenue. What I just explained above is only half the work you'll be doing, and runs many hours over many days, and many headaches, and many unanswered phone calls, and waiting for city approvals.
I am in the same stage as you Jeff. As I'm using my power tools to clean rotted wood from the patio that I inherited, I feel like a dentist. If only i had been brighter in high school and pushed myself to become a dentist. Instead I'm doing what i can to save the patio deck and save a few thousand dollars for our kids dentistry costs.
Great fix. I hate it when my feet get rained on when going #2. Also foolish to have the hinges on the exterior. Robbers dream. One more thought. For holes that large I would probably screw some screws into the cavity to give the bondo something to hold onto. Overall great repair for what you had to work with.
Hey Jeff, curious to why didn't you use newspaper or something like that instead of the painter's tape? I still like the video, I learned a lot. Never would have thought about Bondo. I think of drywall mud or something else like that. Thanks again Rodney
The house was empty there was no other supplies are or anything around. We really wanted to replace the door but it was such a strange custom size and it would have been months to get a new one.
@@gingervytis Of course it's a lazy repair, this is a cheap bottom of the barrel repair and was not advertised as anything but. This is for the guy who has no means or money to fix it.
You can fill the gaps with just about anything. I prefer something that is solid like wood or even stone chips and make sure the Bondo has contact with all the wood surfaces that you carved out. You can also reinforce the joints between the rails and styles with screws and then encapsulate them in the Bondo. Bondo is also manufactured in several formulations, some with short or long fiberglass reinforcing hairs incorporated to add stability and reduce slump. There are "professional architectural epoxy compounds" available from a number of manufacturers for just this purpose, but they generally cost 5 to 10 times more than Bondo and I don't believe they perform any better or even not as well.
Hey exposed hinges... wrong thieves can pop them right out...you need other type... plus use scrap wood as filler..v rot cut strait lines cut and glue a filler.. then glue in v repair...other side too... then counter sink screws thru frame... fast done... use Bondo as last filler.. that's me.. permanent fix..
The metal panels attached to the outside of the door..... bad idea, esp. the top one. It was trapping water against the recessed panel and keeping it wet... nice pocket for rain, moisture to gather and wick right down into the joint of rails and styles. It covered the damage but compounded the problem making the issue a whole lot worse....
When the hot and cold hits it repeatedly it comes loose anyway..fiberglass resin and wood are two completely different substances....here in the KC area wood rot repairs with bondo and the likes are causing catastrophic amounts of damage...because it causes sneaky leaks. Period.
@@billwhite1966 this is not fiberglass filler it is a polyester based filler. If you use fiberglass filler first, then poly filler it will be waterproof and super strong.
I'm, also, a contractor. I've been in the home repair business for 55 years. Unless the door has a historical value or a sentimental value, I will replace the door. Quicker and cost effective for the homeowner. Nice video.
I have done these repairs historical wood restoration is what i do for a living, bondo will only last a few years must use epoxy & wood inlays with a router i have just recently repaired 3 pr of doors 6'x 10' 130 yrs old it took several weeks, wish i new how to send you a pic. I am not trying to knock you but bondo is waste of time. Also drop your hardware in tub of vinegar overnight takes off rust & paint scrapes easier use scaper & brass or wire brush then buff.
This particular Bondo is a newer formula specifically formulated for tough to stick to surfaces, let me tell you it did phenomenal. With the 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of top coat exterior paint, it should last hopefully more than a few years, as long as the paint lasts. Can you make a video and post the link to it here, or upload photos online and post link?
I've done a load of these jobs before, and have never found any Bondo or wood filler to last more than a few weeks before cracks start to reappear and water gets into the joints again. (I do live in a damp climate though - the UK :-) In the old days, I was always taught to completely remove the rotten timber (don't use wood hardener), and replace with good clean timber and the best glued mechanical connection you can get. Minor surface imperfections can then be rectified with bondo or wood fillers.
@@tjbrison the bondo doesn't expand & contract. This is why we use a 4 part epoxy system. I no epoxy isn't cheap. Plus it takes 24 hours to cure. When possible rout out the bad stuff & replace with appropriate materials & use waterproof glue. Finding old growth materials to match what your repairing can be a chore. Sometimes things are just to far gone
@@tjbrison This is a new formula made specifically for hard to stick surfaces. Also, most people do not use Bondo properly. Most Bondo formulas can go 1/4" thick max, but many people go above that and you are likely to get cracking. As you can see, I did 3 separate layers, and sealed it perfectly with primer, then used a high quality exterior paint to keep the moisture out.
Few more of those doors will offset your girl's dental fees, LOL. Tell me about it, my two boys delayed my retirement by a bunch of years. Given enough time, new rots around the Bondo repairs. If that's my house, I would replace with an exterior fiberglass door, no more rot or needed any painting. New door hinges are cheap and look much better. Replace with a standard door and enlarge the entry require more work but only to do it once. Hate sanding Bondo, it gums up the sand paper in no time. Bondo cheese grater will save you a lot of sanding time.
I just looked at my daughters back door this weekend, it had classic rot on the bottom, and I thought a new door would be a huge cost. First thing I thought of was to do what you've done. Down here in Australia, we have a similar product called Builders Bog. I've used it before, and it sets so hard you can drill it and screw it. One problem is you cant leave your back door off overnight, so you have to make it snappy. I like your job, and reckon I'll be solid for a few years to come. If I can get my daughters door looking that good, we'll all be happy, even for a shot time. Nice job mate.
Thanks Rick, and good luck with the door I know replacing is always the best way, even if it's not always possible within the time frame, which is the problem we had on this video, so we did the quick and dirty repair.
Yes as mentioned earlier in the video this is what the homeowner wanted to do because those old style narrow doors are special order and take months to arrive. But you can't argue with how well it came out in the end. That bondo is actually tougher than the wood is.
Sorry, but that’s just a cheap fix the new homeowner will need to address in short time! Aw what the hell, get paid for shabby work and off to screw someone else!
Glad I could help. Make sure you use expanding foam or chucks of wood and glue instead of the tape we used here. We were stuck at my friend's empty house with no supplies when this was done.
To clean up vintage hinge sets...……. a power drill with a 32 cal. gun brass cleaning brush.... It's a "Bingo" as they say!,.... "they just say Bingo....
As a remodeling contractor in NorCal I've been using all-purpose bondo as a filler for my finish carpentry. I also use it for rot repair, except in most cases I apply Minwax liquid rotted wood stabilizer prior to filling with bondo. The liquid stabilizer fills the pores and hardens the remaining wood fibers in the repair area, making for a more solid repair.
Awesome, thanks PR
P R thank you so much for this comment. I have one wood support on my patio (decorative) and part of it is rotting out. I don't know how deep yet but taking your advice.
Wood this be good for my shed siding? Fkin wood peckers came back this year. I imagine this is good outside?
thank you, i'm looking to this exact same thing. thank you for reinforcing what was recommended to me
😊
And the Oscar goes to... YOU for how this door looks. I just bought a 1932 cottage with tons of termite damage. Thanks for giving me a taste of my future!
Thank you so much for this video!! It was so thorough and easy to follow along. We have been stressing about our door and planning on replacing it. I had been avoiding it because I like the door and I knew it would be expensive. Finally called around and the cheapest I could find was at least $2000 because we have an odd sized door. I have loved our door that is original to our 1930s home. It adds so much character to our house. I got my husband to watch this with me and less than $100 later our door is looking good again!
Thanks, glad to help
This was an incredibly helpful video, especially for those who don't have a lot of extra money to spend on house projects. I'm amazed at all the negative comments, but then again it's the internet and everyone has an opinion, even trolls 😄
There are purist perfectionists out there who did not realize this was a very low budget repair for those who have no money and not a lot of time to get it fixed.
You are a miracle worker! I have water damage in the wall of my bathroom and you tips are going to be a big help. thank you!
I really appreciated your methodical approach to fixing a rotting door. I also liked your sense of humor throughout the presentation. Your video has saved me big bucks $$. Thank-you for your advice.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow. I am impressed with how many comments you reply to. What more could viewers ask for? I really enjoyed the video and even enjoyed your side comments. Of course there are other ways to do repairs. Some better some worse. But I found this interesting. And, you're not the only one using Bondo for these types of repairs. Many craftsmen have been doing it for years. Don't listen to the haters. Keep up the good work!! I just ordered some Bondo.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching Edward. Yes, we find the people who complain the most are ones who snub their noses down on poor people or others up against a time critical schedule. Not everyone has skill of Norm Abrams, so here we simply showed the most basic DIYer how to put lipstick on a pig.
@@jeffostroff so anyone who gives a little criticism or a pointer to you is a snob? You are posting on a social media platform. Also comments are likes are encouraged, you have accept negative comments as well.
@@xbrizzcakez Don't know where you get that I say people are snobs. Your statement does not make any sense
@@jeffostroff my bad "snub" their noses down on poor people" and whats the critical time period? Norm Abrams would never drop all that filler in a door, I think you are too sensitive to post your own work. Your door came out fine, just a little fine tuning with the filler application, just sharing knowledge thru advice ...thanks for replying
@@xbrizzcakez No really? Norm Abrams would never drop that stuff in a door? I guess you never paid attention to the beginning of the video where I said this is lipstick on a pig not a norm Abrams restoration. So your comments don't bring anything value added to the table, As you are just repeating what I already stated. As for the other guy that I had to hold him accountable for snubbing his nose down at the poor people yes there are poor people that can't afford norm Abrams, there are poor people that can't afford to go buy the new door,. My friend was in a jam he had to have that door repaired that day because he was going out of town and people were coming to look at the empty house. It would have cost $1200 to put a new door there if you want to send the money I would be happy to go back and re do it and puts a new door there and that way you have a Norm Abrams project that looks perfect.
Wood door repair, Bondo adhesive and tools in this video:
🛒 NEW Bondo Pro Series 1-qt. High Bond Filler and Hardener: homedepot.sjv.io/2A5dA
🛒 Pin Popper Door Hinge Pin Remover amzn.to/2mjovxj
🛒 DEWALT DCK299D1T1 Hammer Drill, Impact Driver Kit: amzn.to/2M6h450
🛒 DEWALT DWA4974 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Point amzn.to/2n7kXia
@Viking Warrior Yes, I would fill it in if it's over an 1", or replace the plank or insert another piece of wood there if possible.
Just happened to find this video this morning as I was wondering how to prep first layer of bondo for a second layer. Have some rotted wood on my boat. Thought I’d try your trick to stuff the gap with masking tape then fill with Bondo. Worked great! Thanks and this video has earned you a subscription.
Glad I could help! I hope it survives the movements of the boat. Let us know if anything goes wrong. With the board I might have suggested using spray foam, depending on how deep you had to go.
jeffostroff no worries! It was a small patch in the cabin. Don’t need to worry about the movement of the boat. Thanks for answering.
@@DovetailSales they have special bondo for boats made from fiberglass
In on ii
Do not use blue tape to fill the gap since the bondo will not have support and will crack by the edges. Use pieces of wood instead off and you
will get a solid support. Do not use blue tape to form the edge of the door. Use a strait edge ( any piece of wood cover with cling wrap). Use a bondo file to smooth the surface. Do this before the bondo be full cure and stay soft but not sticky yet. I had been fixing rotted bottom doors, bottom rotted door frames and house siding rotted board, using this technic and remains good forever and never rotted back in the same place again.
Good tips Thanks Stephan!
@@joseph7105 great tip with the oil, read it too late though :-D just in the middle of a 1920's door remodelling, had a big seethrough (58mm) you cannot find anywhere now, so I had to fill the hole up. Cut 4 pcs of wood to size, glued them together and put them in, than 2k putty. Put a board to the bottom and when i took it off, the bottom part of the putty came along :-D
great tips guys
do you think i could use bondo to form a corner on a door? Or does it really need the wood or alike on either side to have a chance of lasting? Thanks!
@@vojtechsobolik9536 loool that sucks, dude. Reminds me of the time I emailed the inventor/seller of a certain kind of tuning peg for flamenco guitars. His instruction involved the use of Xylene. Nearly two weeks later, he emailed a second time to mention that xylene melts plastic and whatever I do, not to get in on any part of the guitar.
Thanks for nothing, dude. It's a good thing it wasn't a $5,000 handmade flamenco guitar or anything..
_attacks peg guy with the nearest blunt object and an equal portion of homicidal rage_
Really, though, I should've done more research. But still, that's the kind of warning you like to get around the same time as the instructions for use as opposed to much later
Thank you!! We have a bay window with about 2 inches in length of wood rot in the window trim and I have been stressing thinking the entire window would need to be removed and replaced. This is a great video with easy to follow directions. Also laughed for a solid 5min when you mentioned “This old House” because I watched a video from them explaining how to fix wood rot and I thought I would have to by the $200 joint compound mix.
Buy the Abatron Wood Epox 2 part epoxy fluid and apply it to the wood, allowing it to tack up before you use the Bondo. Or even better use the 2 part putty instead of Bondo in the Wood Epox kit. You'll thank me later - trust me.
Jeff awesome DIY repair turning a seemly impossible dry rot into a "swan" of a door ! Very useful step by step instructions. Try to watch ur DIY repair vids. Kudos for upload. Will incorporate ur instructions in my own dry rot fascia repair. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
I have been using a small window squeegee, like what is sold for showers, instead of a spackling tool for my finish work before painting. The squeegee eliminates the lines that are caused when the hard metal spackle tool skips over any hard nub. Once dry you can push out any high spot. I haven't used this on the bondo. But will try it to see if it works. I used a two part auto bondo to repair my crumbling septic tank 15 years ago. It's still holding apparently.
that is incredible!
I am currently working on a home with water and rot issues. Thanks for this Jeff!
Glad to help in just make sure since you probably have more time than I had when we were doing this use either expanding foam or chunks of wood with glue to fill the void in the door
Thanks for showing this! Forget all the negativity- you said flat out that this is the quick and crappy way to do it. Everyone here’s acting like you were doing a paid job.
I have a junky old door that I’m going to do this with. Hope it looks as great as yours!
Well said!
Wat een ongelovelijk prutswerk. U bent een amateur. Ik garandeer u dat deze reparatie er zo weer uitligt. Groetjes uit Amsterdam. Prutser!
I repaired a similar door years ago and tried using wood filler. Like you said wood filler is horrible! Wish I’d thought of Bondo! Great video
Thanks Dale
You are awesome man, I have this kitchen cabinet that has been driving me crazy and I didn't know how to fix it BUT now I do thanks to you. Cheers
Great tutorial.I really like your completeness and the bit of humor. (And you are right about orthodontists!)
Glad you enjoyed it!
2 years of visits add up. If it was $7,000 for one day or week of work, I could see that being outrageous. Try getting 1 or 2 bridges over a few weeks of time and paying the same. I think a full mouth rearrangement is worth the cost.
Thank you from over here in Australia. This video has solved a problem for me. 👍
This is EXACTLY the repair I needed to know how to do! Thank you!
Awesome, glad to help out Renate, thanks for watching!
I wonder, could this same principle be applied to rotted wood on the outside of a home? We restored a 100 yr old home, but it has some rotted boards under the guttering that’s are rotted!?
@@ca6177 if these are fascia boards I prefer to cut out the rotted areas and install new boards. Done that a few times.
Couple things.
Rather than unscrew the hinge you can do a couple things to free it.
Heat works great. Heat gun or torch work well. Metal soaks up the heat and the door getting black marks won’t matter since you are painting it.....
You can also use two crescent wrenches each on a different knuckle of the hinge jam side leaf to break that rust free. Metal expands a lot from heat. Rust doesn’t expand or flex.
Instead of using tape take your cut waste and pack those in. Can add a little bondo as a cement or glue to hold the wood in and the end result will be very strong.
If you are filling vertical holes with bondo make sure you have foil backed duct tape with you. After filling smooth a piece of the tape over with a trowel larger than the hole. The foil stays ridged so you can fill even large holes in 1-2 fills.
Keep a razor scraper with you. Once your finger nail barely indents the bondo carefully scrap the bondo flush to the finish surface SO MUCH TIME AND DUST SAVED!
I like to mix the bondo with composite shins. If I use an actual putty knife I put a layer of tape over the knife. I can reuse the shim every other mix mess free or I can peel the tape once I’m done.
Store you mix be sure your ready. If you drip bondo it’s best to let it dry. Like a paint drip rubbing or scraping will work the wet product in.
@@stlalways6715 good tips. The reason why I did not use any of the wood that was removed as because rotted wood as fungus in it you don't want to keep that fungus inside the door that's what causes the rot.
Steve. Jeff you did an awesome, awesome job on that door. I learned a lot of you. Thank you very much. Keep up the awesome work.
Jeff, thank you for the education! You have been a great help. God bless you and your family!
Glad I could help, thanks for watching Courtney.
I just used your technique and it worked brilliantly! Thank you!! I just wish I did not use the Bondo with fiberglass, but oh well, at least it will be even stronger. Just the sanding was sanding fiberglass, so I did it outside away from anything it could get on. I added some contractors mesh inside to give it even more strength.
I'm so glad to hear that my technique worked for you! Adding contractors mesh sounds like a smart move for extra strength. Keep up the great work!
This is exactly what my back door looks like on my 110 year old craftsman home. The dog tore it up it already had some rot. I can't find a door like the one that's there so I have to fix it. Like you showed, I have two plywood panels to hide the damage. I'll do this tomorrow. Thank you for the demo.
You likely have more time to work on a denied did so make sure you do it even better than this and use small pieces of wood and glue where we used the balls of take
@@jeffostroff You must have replied on your smartphone.
You can always build a door from scratch just need the right woodworking tools to cut the stiles and rails as well as the panels. But on a door like this exposed to the elements id use a rot proof wood like Cypress or ceder if you can afford it an alternative wood that mimics moghongany might be red gruddas its cheaper and about a rot proof as they come unless you get into some of the high end woods.
I have a relatively simple problem of dry rot in the desert SW. The three hinges pulled out of the door jam on an exterior 30" x 80" door which houses an auxiliary heat pump. It is a heavy duty steel over wood door, and the other wood ends and sides appear to be intact.
I think this will be more than adequate.
The house is about 45 yrs old.
Thanks for the tutorial
I found that stucco screen rolled up and screwed inside the larger cavities makes an extremely strong attachment and holds the bondo in place.
That is a good idea also
Impressive. I love the idea of using tape to fill the gaps - that is so creative. I just did something similar with some foam insulation tape used to fill in mortar gaps prior to caulking with concrete caulk.
To remove the rotted wood I use a Dremel and a old wood carving bit. Kind of like a carbon bur. Woks real nice. Gets right down in there.
Good tip!
Wow! You just saved me a ton of money by repairing rather than replacing my damaged doors! Many thanks! And the Oscar’s goes to…drumroll!!!!
The bondo seemed like more work than just cutting the center out and replacing the wood. I do use and like bondo myself; the same company makes a fiber reinforced filler as well that is stronger for larger gaps. You can get bondo poly resin that soaks in to rotted wood first to get a slightly stronger bond and end product. I also use DAP Plastic Wood filler; it is solvent based and sets fast as a single part mix. I also use an epoxy wood filler that’s 2 parts and works like a thick putty. Bondo is great with doors though because it is strong and you can both drill and if needed tap it. You can mix in Xylene about 5-10% to the bondo first than add hardener and actually inject the bondo; it just takes longer to set up but it works great for tougher to get in areas.
Yes, but a lot of work and time and effort too in order to get the right thickness wood to put in there, then you need all sorts of wood tools, planing down the wood to the right thickness, we had to do everything in that afternoon for my friend. I wanted to just replace the door, but it's a non-standard size, $350 to order it, 3 months to wait for a new one, then permitting, and hurricane non-sense, would have been over $100= at the end.
Non-standard doors suck; I had to fix an 84x36-1/2 because there was no easy/inexpensive fix. You can do a lot with a router and table saw but yes wood fixes take longer than bondo as even some of the fastest glues can’t compare to bondo. I gave gad good luck though with CA glues and UV cure liquids for fast fixing. A spring popper works great on hinges too, especially the bottom hinge where you don’t always have a lot of working room to get a good swing.
X,😉😃
Great video! I picked up some bondo for a project and now I’m feeling much more confident (and entertained).
You can do it!
I cut the rotted sections out, and put blocks of timber in them because I’ve got a pet door in mine and I wanted to strengthen the door a bit More, my hardware store in Australia, recommended I use filler instead of bog, glad I watched this cuz I knew bog would be better.
Although now that I’m finished I’m not sure about the bog, I couldn’t get a meat finish on it, using those trowels is really an art especially when you’ve only got a couple of minutes to finalise it and especially when you gotta create an angle, the whole bottom edge of my door was caved in, so I had to build it up to match the rest of the door, I tried using tape but it kept coming off, so you can clearly see all the bog after I’ve painted it, I don’t have an electric sander either so that probably doesn’t help.
I also couldn’t get the bottom pin out from my door, it’s too close to the ground, so I took the screws put of the door, cuz I have a metal door frame and it’s got pop rivets to the frame, which I don’t have a lot of experience with so I don’t really want to touch. Have you got a link for that door pin remover?
Tim, here you go: 🛒 Pin Popper Door Hinge Pin Remover amzn.to/2mjovxj
What bog product did you use in lieu of Bondo Vincent? I’ve contacted 3M and they’ve told me they don’t supply Bondo here in Australia and they couldn’t recommend any of their other filler products for timber applications.
Great job - Thank you for taking the time to film this!
Glad it was helpful!
I've used Bondo to fill minor imperfections in wood. If the wood shows rot damage, I'll clean as much of the rot as practical, use a bit of wood hardener resin and then the Bondo. That door has way too much rot to fill with Bondo. I would have hung a new door or if the customer insisted on repairing the old door, I would have replaced the bottom rail entirely.
They also make a version of bondo with fibers in it for reinforcing.
You right👍👍
@Carolynska S Google, "Minwax wood hardener"
@Carolynska S It hardens wood that has become soft or punky so it can be filled or painted.
Great video and liked "the corroded metal is just blocking the artery", great analogy!!
This video is just what I needed! Thanks!
Glad to help!
Great video. Plan to fix a rotten mailbox post with a flower pot holder. This video provided me all the great idea. Thanks!
IT might not hold if it is going back in the ground.
You can harden the remaining wood with minwax lquid wood restorer, the Bondi adheres to it and makes a better repair, dries fast
Thanks for the tip Allen
That min wax stuff works awesome!
May I pl lease have a supply list. Thank you.
Nice job. I have to repair some No. 105 siding and your video really helped. Thanks!
Glad to help doubles thanks for watching
Loved the video and your channel! I have a antique door similar not nearly as much rot just a little. Filling it all with bondo. To your other rude commentors. No i do not want a new door. This one is perfect and just needs some TLC. So glad i stumbled upon this video. How would you seal the windows in a old antique shaker door ? It has 6 windows on top. Want to make sure it is sealed. Caulking?
Raquel it's important to understand the difference between caulk and silicone. So caulk is basically used interior use only on baseboards, door molding, etc. But for anything around kitchen sinks, bathtubs, windows, exterior doors, they use silicone because it is 100% water proof, whereas caulk will dry and crack. Many installer and builders incorrectly use caulk on bathtubs, which is why you often see caulk on bath tubs eventually get cracked, and black with mold. If you choose a silicone for the windows, either try clear, or if you need white for a white door, you can try that too. Just be aware most silicone cannot be painted, some can however, so make sure you are aware of the limitations. I don't have any expertise in that, because we mostly replace exterior doors here in FL with solid metal doors no windows. You might try some youtube video from skilled craftspeople who know their stuff and repair these doors.
Window glazing is used for glass. Silicone has ZERO UV inhibitors and so the sun deteriorates it. You can also use Phenoseal caulk, it is made for exterior functions. Paint keeps the sun off the glazing or caulk. You can call us rude but for me it is like a doctor operating on someone wrong. No one may die here but whomever paid for that did not get a repaired door, and will have the same problem all over again.
This is an amazing job you've done. My carpenter just stuck two plates on my rotten doors and now looking at all the work you put in, I see why he's not doing a similar job. i would do it myself but that's a lot of sanding. Thanks for sharing this. That door really is a piece of art after you're done! Gives me some hope for my doors!
Dewalt orbital sander, done.
i just use my trusty nail set to hit the pins up and out, and i'd bet those plates contributed to the wood rot, there were gaps at the top and no where for it to weep out effectively
Yes, the plates are a waste, the owner had put them on there before when there was some rot starting to form, but most people are unaware that fungus that causes wood rot gets trapped in the moisture behind the plate, also humidity in the air down here is brutal and gets trapped in there as well. This new primer and paint job should protect it well for years to come.
Good tip Jeff, because replacing doors takes a lot of skill along with many headaches!
Yes they do
I've never seen anyone put bondo on so messy, wow.... you can save so much time if you work on learning how to spread bondo and drywall mud
Awesome video. I've a rotten wood at the bottom of one of my deck columns and I'll use your instructions to repair the hole.
Awesome, let us know how it holds up
Buddy, a little more care and you could have inserted some blocks of hard wood. Pin the hardwood then skim with Bondo, reinstate the drop lines and paint. About the same time and a lot less Bondo, less sanding and would last 5 years longer, gives the customer what they expect.
Lot of would have could have. We were at my friend's empty house, no materials or anything there.
No strength, more like paint on a turd then lipstick on a pig
@@medudegowar6896 There is more strength in this new bondo than you think. This is not your grandfather's bondo.
I’d be pretty pissed if I found out, as the homeowner, that there was tape stuffed into the door. At least pack it in with wood epoxy putty. I’m not sure how I feel about it. Good thing you used bondo and made some kind of repair. The mass majority of contractors in south Florida would rather cause more damage to the door and call it a repair, like the metal plate, than to actually fill in the door.
@@aor980 Homeowner knew what was going on he didn't want to spend any money and a new door would have been months away.
Wow! I would have given up too soon thinking I didn’t get it smooth on the first coat of bondo. Turned out great!
Yes, bondo dries very hard and sands so smooth and perfect.
When removing hinge pins you should start with the bottom pin and move up because the weight of the door will tend to keep the lower hinges in line making removal of the top pin fairly easy. If you start at the top and work down you will have a bear of a time removing the bottom pin because the weight of the door is working against you as it tries to fall away from the jamb causing misalignment of the hinge components. That's what happened to this fellow.
A cone stone like that in a low speed drill is quite likely the most useless tool you could possibly try because it plugs off with debris in literally seconds which causes the abrasive cutting edges to be ineffective. In fact of matter, stones should never be used on soft gummy material for this reason. Stones work on the principle that they must wear away to expose fresh abrasive. If you must use a rotary cutting tool use a carbide burr instead or better yet, just use a good old fashioned wood chisel or gouge and finish with a rotary burr.
When it comes to working with bondo you should never mix it on a porous absorbent material like wood as it draws the liquid component out of the putty and causes faster curing. He should have used one of those kick plates he removed from the door. You should also have a much better handle on how much hardener to use. Using too much hardener also causes the putty to lose cohesion and it breaks away easier. When mixing bondo, you don't stir it. You use your putty knife and you scoop it up and lay it over on itself like you would if you were making bread dough. Stirring bondo is time consuming and will frequently give you a poor mix because the hardener is mixed through the putty inconsistently. You don't use your putty knives to take down "cheese" hard bondo. You use a cheese grater rasp. (www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Cheesegrater-Adjustable-Position/dp/B0013HHSIQ/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=bondo+file&qid=1589137555&sr=8-12 ) It's faster, more precise, and won't gouge your surfaces. If you started to sand bondo that is that uneven in a body shop they would laugh you out of the shop. That's why you use the cheese grater. Bondo is great stuff when used properly but it does have a few failings. One of those failing is it has little strength without a good backer. If one was to accidentally bang or kick this "repair" there is a good chance it would cave in because the only backing it has is masking tape and air. He should have pulled as much of the tape as he possibly could and filled completely with bondo to avoid the void. This fellow fails miserably on all counts.
Then at 27:32 there is that comment about how the door edge sits down low and the weather stripping will cover it. That sort of describes everything you will see here. It is the mark of a true blue scab tradesman. You know, the kind of guy who always cuts corners and always produces substandard work. He's the Mechanic that scabs brakes on cars that have accidents later. He's the Autobody guy who doesn't fix the rust but putties over it and paints it so it looks good for a couple of months. He's the Electrician who uses whatever wire he has around even if it's too small a gauge for the load. He's the House painter who doesn't prime new raw drywall so that he needs to use twice as much paint and gets a streaky finish. He's the Drywaller that hangs sheet any old way and relies on the Taper to fix his mess. The kind of guy that shows up to do your work but somehow never has the right tool for the job so he "improvises". "I don't need no stinking chisel! I have a slot screwdriver for that!" You all know that guy.........
As far as subscribing.......I seem to remember something about a snowball chances in hell. This is totally amateur night and if you hire this guy or someone like him you are paying far too much for too little. Crap is crap and just because you put lipstick on it doesn't make it less of a pig.
Actually, what you didn't see in the video, I started on the bottom pin, but it was so stuck, and hinge so close to the ground could not get any mechanical advantage tapping upward with a hammer, and it actually broke my pin popper, because it was so tightly jammed in there. You saw win the video once the door was laying flat, how hard it was even with the best mechanical advantage angle and the hammer to really pound that pin out of there. Once the pin was sanded, lubed, and reseated, it was much smoother.
Scooter Tramp
Hey Scooter that was a long winded reply. But a damn good one and well said!
This is the end results of doing hack work. Receiving negative comments from professionals like ourselves who cares about the quality we give our customers. It’s too bad there’s people like this guy that doesn’t give a damn except for making some quick money!
He claims their wasn’t enough time and the customer needed it done immediately. Myself, I would have said “no thanks “ and walked away as any honest carpenter would have!
You’ve got my thumbs up for making a “ well said” reply!
@@Oldtimecarpenter You both missed the point of this video, the train left the station, you weren't on it. I specifically said at the start of the video this was a lipstick on a pig repair, I stated this is not a Norm Abrams restoration project and to go elsewhere if that is what you're looking for. As a "professional" you claim to be, you certainly lack the ability pay attention to details and you lack situational awareness. Both of you are so high on your own arrogance you can't see what's really happening. It has nothing to do with pride of quality, or me being sloppy, my friend the owner of the house already moved out of town, needed this door fixed the quickest possible way in a few hours as part of a huge punch list. Did not want to spend any money on it. One day when I do one of my preferred style repairs, we'll upload that video. But snobs like you don't understand when someone wants just the quickest basic cheapest repair, this is what they do. You snub your nose down at them.
jeffostroff
The bottom line is you don’t care about the quality of work you do! So the sucker buying the house now has a door that won’t last a year! It makes me wonder if your tool box is filled with bandaids along with whatever repairs you performed on the house. You know that was a complete hack job and I’m more concerned about someone watching this video thinking this is the way to quick fix decay. It’s clearly NOT! That door ( referring to the bottom rail ) is trash and for little money more, a new door could have been purchased! It’s obvious you know little about carpentry and even less about quality and building standards!
@@Oldtimecarpenter We'll await your video then on how it's done.
Looking forward to the next video.
Thx
S
We used this putty only for little cracks. In this cases, we used to replace the missing wood with a piece cut and shaped to fit in place. The putty gets broken easily when the door slams
Yes, wanted to do wood, but no tools there, and no time had to be done that day no trips to the store, etc. We really wanted to replace the door, but custom size and order, and months waiting list.
@@jeffostroff you made it work with what you have. "ideal conditions" aren't always the case.Thanks for showing us a way to solve a problem outside of ideal conditions.
In place of tape, the blue/green/pink soli insulation (not styrofoam) could be cut to fit in less time than the tape, I retained left over pieces from insulating the interior of a horse trailer and picked up a few small pieces curbside. But of course the tape may be OK but it could if it gets moist allow mold to grow.
Yes I like that idea more. My hole is not as big yet another filler maybe best. For 30 years by the time I moved out of this 90 year old house 🏡 lol
Thanks for the tip on the Bondo: you're right that wood putty is useless. The door came out great. I'm wondering, though, that because it's still a wood door, and it's still FL, would it be beneficial to install another plate to prevent future rot?
Hi Debbie I doubt the plate was put on there to protect the door, I believe it was put on there to hide the existing rot that was on there. Wood rot is actually caused by a fungus with the presence of moisture so I doubt that even having a plate on it would help and it, unless the door sees a lot of rain and needs a splash guard, just makes doors look unsightly. Your best bet with doors is to make sure that it has a good solid top coat of paint on it and that the paint never wears down because once it does you invite fungus and other possible calamities to your wood door.
@@jeffostroff i wish i could find someone to fix my garage door panel.
You are a wonderful person. Bondo is my new go to.
Make sure you get the new bondo with the green on the can like mine, it is their newest formula, made for difficult surfaces.
Amazing! Thank you for your patience, hard work and great presentation.
Thank you very much!
Love this
Repairs of an old rotted bottom dresser so this is primely helpful thank you 😊
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I appreciate quick fix videos like this and do not mean to be crapping on this DIY repair. However, I would recommend filling with something else other than tape because tape has a "non-stick" surface which is sort of like grease paper. The non-stick side function is so you can peel it off itself on the roll. If you've ever seen any DIY with epoxy they will tape with packing or cellophane to provide mold release against the epoxy in any project. For this purpose, using other fillers would be much better for longevity. I'm sure it held up OK in this repair but when you use bondo, you really want it to stick as much as possible even below the sanded surface.
We wanted to us expanding foam but you have to let it cure overnight, and we had to get this done that day.
Thank you for this video, saved me a ton of headache having to replace a non standard size door
Listening to a wood rot video, fungus causes the decay to wet wood. Was going to epoxy after spraying with clorox solution to keep fungus down. Have never used bondo. Will try. Great explanation!
Awesome kay, Let us know if it worked out for your door as well
Thanks for the awesome tutorial, Jeff. Great video.
You're very welcome!
Hi Jeff. Great vid. I have a wood cabinet with rotted wood but the problem is the rotted wood is on the bottom corners of the cabinet. How would I fill it up with bondo and restore it to the same shape? In your vid the tape works as the rot is in the middle bottom layer. But I'm battling to figure out how best to handle the corners(it's a big chunk of rot that I need to get rid of). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
I don't think Bondo will carry a load. Look at some of the other versions of bondo that have fiberglass fibers in them to strengthen it, see if that helps. Check their web site for engineering info on whether it can handle the loads.
Great info……thank u from Texas.
Glad it was helpful!
It looks wonderful. How long do these types of repairs last? I've only recently started using Bondo on wood, I love the stuff, best filler ever. I just wonder how long my repairs will last.
Not sure, but this is Bondo's latest product made for adhering to difficult surfaces, and as long as paint lasts, this should hold up.
@Tom Wood That is correct Tom we have a number of commenters here who have comment that it is gonna crack in a few weeks but these guys have no idea about this new bondo, they are still thinking of their grandfathers bondo from the 1970s.
Great video! I always use a surform plane to take most of the Bondo off before it gets fully hardened. It makes the sanding much easier and faster. I learned that from watching auto body workers.
Great tip!
Do you have any recommendations for a good quality surform plane?
Thanks for the tutorial! During an exterior paint job I accidentally got myself into fixing a rotten front door just like this! Hopefully it turns out great just like yours. Any tip on how to try to make a wood like texture??
I have heard you can buy templates that you would lay over the wet product and it will leave imprints, but I don't know where you would get it
Try using a small stiff bristle broom in the bondo before dry.
Do you have a video dealing with the same sort of problem but using expanding foam as the filler? I have a wooden vertical bean that has holes where it was nailed to the exterior. I am going to use foam as the filler and then top it off with bog (bondo). Cheers.
No I did not make avideo with foam yet, but you can use expanding foam, but you have to wait overnight for it to cure before applying the bondo over the top. We did not have the luxury of time it had to be done same day.
If it is a beam that can fall in someones head replace it
@@zaxarispetixos8728, not applicable in my case. It was an upright that filled where 2 corners came together.
I need advice> I search for advice> I see Jeff has advice> I watch Jeff’s advice! Thanks Jeff!
He just said it cost $ 7000 for his daughter’s dental brace! Thank God for the NHS. Both my daughters had theirs free!
Terrific video - I love that you had to seal the doorframe to keep the cool air in 🤣🌞. I have the exact opposite problem here in the UK 🥶🌬☃️. Thanks for all the fantastic tips - really appreciate you sharing your experience/ knowledge 🙌🏻👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Just what I needed for repairs on my patio rails. Thank you. Jim
Awesome if they are big holes that you encounter you might wanna fill them with wood chips and glue and let them dry 1st before applying bondo
Great Video Jeff, you are a good teacher.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching John!
I've used aluminum foil instead of tape for this kind of gap filling. It works well with body filler. On a hot day, like 80 or higher, you'll be lucky it lasts two minutes after mixing. I've used just a smidgen less hardener to extend the time. How much is a smidgen? It's a bit less than itty bitty.
My preferred method is courses replacing the door but my friend wanted it done like this. But next time I would be using expanding foam that's typically what's inside many doors anyways.
I use bondo at times but use a surform shaver while it’s still setting up saves lots of time and dust. Give it a try you’ll love it.
Sound slike something to try!
This is what I’m looking for. Never work with wood filler. I built a desk for my girls. 1st major project and I mess up a little bit with the wood. I end up with a small hole on top of the desk and need to fill it in b4 I sand and stain.
Wood filler is a pain because it just crumbles on your when you're trying to pack it into the holes.
Jeff I live in Broward County and have the metal and glass impact doors with wood inside of them. A couple of my doors have some rot was curious on how to attack these type of door.
We have done that before as well we're on the metal doors we try to sand down to get past all of the rotted rusted metal, and then we apply bondo to smoothen it out and sand it and paint it. But you might find that you have so much rusted metal that it doesn't make any sense to try to sand down because you're going to end up going through all of it in that case you have to just replace the door. but the important lesson to remember here is to always make sure your doors are painted with a good paint a primer and a good solid paint that will withstand the elements. And as soon as you start to see the paint wearing down it's time to repaint. What happens with most doors is the people let the paint fade and it becomes chalky and then moisture is allowed to get in so the paint fails to protect the door anymore.
Honestly, after all of that work for what looked like it took at least a couple of hours wouldn't it just have been easier to buy a new fiberglass or steel door and paint it? I have the same issue that has occurred at the bottom of a wood utility door on my garage. One of my brothers-in-law has done body repair work for years and uses Bondo to repair lots of things, so I'm familiar with it. But to hire a handyman here and have him do all that work would cost nearly as much or maybe even more (depending on the handyman) that buying a new steel door!
We wanted to buy a new door here, but this is a 40 year old non-standard size ultra skinny door with window, no longer allowed under hurricane building codes. This would require $350 purchase of new hurricane rated door, waiting several months for delivery, then getting all necessary hurricane permits and inspections which could easily run well over $1000. Now you may have to re-frame to fit door to satisfy hurricane strength requirements. Most contractors in our area charge you $350 to file a permit for a door. Then you have to turn in all sorts of wind mitigation reports along with the door to get approval, then the insurance company wants all sorts of wind mitigation tests, signed off by a GC which costs another $150. But since you have all that extra money lying around, by all means pursue that avenue. What I just explained above is only half the work you'll be doing, and runs many hours over many days, and many headaches, and many unanswered phone calls, and waiting for city approvals.
I am in the same stage as you Jeff. As I'm using my power tools to clean rotted wood from the patio that I inherited, I feel like a dentist. If only i had been brighter in high school and pushed myself to become a dentist. Instead I'm doing what i can to save the patio deck and save a few thousand dollars for our kids dentistry costs.
That's the way we get the job done!
Great fix. I hate it when my feet get rained on when going #2. Also foolish to have the hinges on the exterior. Robbers dream. One more thought. For holes that large I would probably screw some screws into the cavity to give the bondo something to hold onto. Overall great repair for what you had to work with.
Great idea for next time!
Omg. Hinges on outside. I knew something didn’t set right with me. Now I know what it was.
VERY educational! Thank you. Great job!
Hey Jeff, curious to why didn't you use newspaper or something like that instead of the painter's tape? I still like the video, I learned a lot. Never would have thought about Bondo. I think of drywall mud or something else like that. Thanks again Rodney
The house was empty there was no other supplies are or anything around. We really wanted to replace the door but it was such a strange custom size and it would have been months to get a new one.
Packing with paper is a lazy "repair".
@@gingervytis Of course it's a lazy repair, this is a cheap bottom of the barrel repair and was not advertised as anything but. This is for the guy who has no means or money to fix it.
@@jeffostroff Use bubble wrap, doesn't rot and termites don't like it either.
@@kimchee94112 genius
Im reparing a door yest like yours ,of damage ,i finish but i use wood filler ,insted of bondo ,thanks very helpful
Durhams is good stuff, it just can't get wet. I really like Bondo for wood.
Plus we primed it twice and have good exterior paint.
WOW.I HAVE LEARNED A LOT FROM YOUR VIDEO.I HAVE A OLD DOOR.I'M GONNA FIX IT.THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION.I'M 66 YEARS OLD.😉
You can do it! Just use wood chips and glue instead of tape, we had nothing at the house there it was empty, so we used what was there.
@@jeffostroff THANKS. JEFF 😉
You could also fill the gaps with pieces of wood.
Yes, virtually anything will work.
You can fill the gaps with just about anything. I prefer something that is solid like wood or even stone chips and make sure the Bondo has contact with all the wood surfaces that you carved out. You can also reinforce the joints between the rails and styles with screws and then encapsulate them in the Bondo. Bondo is also manufactured in several formulations, some with short or long fiberglass reinforcing hairs incorporated to add stability and reduce slump. There are "professional architectural epoxy compounds" available from a number of manufacturers for just this purpose, but they generally cost 5 to 10 times more than Bondo and I don't believe they perform any better or even not as well.
@@jeffostroff including hot mud
Hey exposed hinges... wrong thieves can pop them right out...you need other type... plus use scrap wood as filler..v rot cut strait lines cut and glue a filler.. then glue in v repair...other side too... then counter sink screws thru frame... fast done... use Bondo as last filler.. that's me.. permanent fix..
Yes the builder messed up big time building this house in 1982 with hinges outward., or they should have used non-poppable hinges.
That's pretty much what I was thinking. I would have a so stabilized the remaining wood with minwax or epoxy.
Hey Peter. No doubt you know your stuff. But as a newbie, I understood very little of what you were talking about.
The metal panels attached to the outside of the door..... bad idea, esp. the top one. It was trapping water against the recessed panel and keeping it wet... nice pocket for rain, moisture to gather and wick right down into the joint of rails and styles. It covered the damage but compounded the problem making the issue a whole lot worse....
You are correct, and especially provides a breeding ground for the fungus that causes wood rot.
The plates needed to be sealed against the door, screws too.
Excellent, i have a door that has a doggie door cut out, and im asked to patch it, thank you, subcribed for life,
Just a dentist lol
Too much hardener in Bondo can cause it to react to fast and lose adhesion
That's why we follow the directions use the right amount that they call far, drwing a line across the clay
When the hot and cold hits it repeatedly it comes loose anyway..fiberglass resin and wood are two completely different substances....here in the KC area wood rot repairs with bondo and the likes are causing catastrophic amounts of damage...because it causes sneaky leaks. Period.
Thanks, that’s good to know.
@@billwhite1966 this is not fiberglass filler it is a polyester based filler. If you use fiberglass filler first, then poly filler it will be waterproof and super strong.
dude great fing video! thanks that was my issue exactly!
I'm, also, a contractor. I've been in the home repair business for 55 years. Unless the door has a historical value or a sentimental value, I will replace the door. Quicker and cost effective for the homeowner. Nice video.
Well said! Very odd size, Home depot wanted 6 month wait and $350 for this narrow door.
@@jeffostroff well done
Body filler and padding...did you used to work in the used car trade in the 60s and 70s? I am sure I had a car repaired the same way... 😎
Lol no that was just one of those times where my friend wanted a real quick fix and we have 0 time and 0 budget to get it done.
Great Job Jeff!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I have done these repairs historical wood restoration is what i do for a living, bondo will only last a few years must use epoxy & wood inlays with a router i have just recently repaired 3 pr of doors 6'x 10' 130 yrs old it took several weeks, wish i new how to send you a pic. I am not trying to knock you but bondo is waste of time. Also drop your hardware in tub of vinegar overnight takes off rust & paint scrapes easier use scaper & brass or wire brush then buff.
This particular Bondo is a newer formula specifically formulated for tough to stick to surfaces, let me tell you it did phenomenal. With the 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of top coat exterior paint, it should last hopefully more than a few years, as long as the paint lasts. Can you make a video and post the link to it here, or upload photos online and post link?
I've done a load of these jobs before, and have never found any Bondo or wood filler to last more than a few weeks before cracks start to reappear and water gets into the joints again. (I do live in a damp climate though - the UK :-)
In the old days, I was always taught to completely remove the rotten timber (don't use wood hardener), and replace with good clean timber and the best glued mechanical connection you can get. Minor surface imperfections can then be rectified with bondo or wood fillers.
@@tjbrison the bondo doesn't expand & contract. This is why we use a 4 part epoxy system. I no epoxy isn't cheap. Plus it takes 24 hours to cure. When possible rout out the bad stuff & replace with appropriate materials & use waterproof glue. Finding old growth materials to match what your repairing can be a chore. Sometimes things are just to far gone
@@tjbrison This is a new formula made specifically for hard to stick surfaces. Also, most people do not use Bondo properly. Most Bondo formulas can go 1/4" thick max, but many people go above that and you are likely to get cracking. As you can see, I did 3 separate layers, and sealed it perfectly with primer, then used a high quality exterior paint to keep the moisture out.
I would like to add that there are different epoxies that expand & contract so you dont get cracking down the road
Starting an almost identical job this weekend.A walk-through door on the side of a 1920s detached garage. This will save a lot of time! Subbed
If you have time on the project you could probably use expanding foam inside the door, but you have to let it cure overnight
Few more of those doors will offset your girl's dental fees, LOL. Tell me about it, my two boys delayed my retirement by a bunch of years. Given enough time, new rots around the Bondo repairs. If that's my house, I would replace with an exterior fiberglass door, no more rot or needed any painting. New door hinges are cheap and look much better. Replace with a standard door and enlarge the entry require more work but only to do it once. Hate sanding Bondo, it gums up the sand paper in no time. Bondo cheese grater will save you a lot of sanding time.
Yes, newer doors from glass and door companies, we are also getting quotes for fiberglass.
I just looked at my daughters back door this weekend, it had classic rot on the bottom, and I thought a new door would be a huge cost. First thing I thought of was to do what you've done. Down here in Australia, we have a similar product called Builders Bog. I've used it before, and it sets so hard you can drill it and screw it. One problem is you cant leave your back door off overnight, so you have to make it snappy. I like your job, and reckon I'll be solid for a few years to come. If I can get my daughters door looking that good, we'll all be happy, even for a shot time. Nice job mate.
Thanks Rick, and good luck with the door I know replacing is always the best way, even if it's not always possible within the time frame, which is the problem we had on this video, so we did the quick and dirty repair.
This is how home flippers make repairs. Buyer beware
Yes as mentioned earlier in the video this is what the homeowner wanted to do because those old style narrow doors are special order and take months to arrive. But you can't argue with how well it came out in the end. That bondo is actually tougher than the wood is.
The bondo will fall out over time!
Sorry, but that’s just a cheap fix the new homeowner will need to address in short time! Aw what the hell, get paid for shabby work and off to screw someone else!
Some of you know-it-alls in the comments obviously don't know how f****** strong Bondo is for wood repair.
SCORPION FIRE
Obviously you don’t know nothing about the structural integrity of doors!
Thanks I needed this I'm gonna use the for my garage trim
Glad I could help. Make sure you use expanding foam or chucks of wood and glue instead of the tape we used here. We were stuck at my friend's empty house with no supplies when this was done.
To clean up vintage hinge sets...……. a power drill with a 32 cal. gun brass cleaning brush.... It's a "Bingo" as they say!,.... "they just say Bingo....
Amazing video... Thank you..
Glad you liked it!