There is another kind of product that I used nearly every day for 20 years. Thousands of repairs for furniture stores, moving companies, delivery companies and consumers. They are the hard resin sticks (originally called "shellac sticks") They come in transparent tinted (mostly amber shades) and opaque colors (including black and a variety of whites ). I used a wider blade burn-in knife that I used to both to add in the melted resin and then, with a burn in lube (gel), level it out. Then I rubbed out with steel wool. Top coated with touch up lacquer when needed. Another technique on ring- and semi-porous woods is to take a razor blade or utility knife to score in some graining. Also, if you don't have the color brushes, you can dispense a bit of color from a regular touch up marker on a piece of glass and use a detail brush to draw in the darker grain lines. All that said, the softer sticks are probably better for flooring as they will be more impact resistant. But the resin sticks for things like table tops that will be seen up close. Also, I think the resin sticks have a longer learning curve. But just another option.
This brought back memories of a place I worked at just out of high school decades ago. It was a furniture/appliance store and we had a repair department. The head guy in that department was a miracle worker with furniture or any kind of repair on wood or metal surfaces. He would fill cracks, holes, whatever and then paint the grain back in on the wood and I swear you could never find the repair when he was finished. It was amazing to watch. He used those burn in sticks all the time with a little pallet knife, and would have probably loved having that battery powered tool you have. Thanks for the memories. You do great work.
I repair leather and vinyl for a living and the most important part of the job is coming as close as possible to making your repair seamless… like it never happened…. Color theory is an art… you got it bro
Very nice work, and right on time. A local moving company has begun to use my services and scratch and dent items are prevalent. Even asked if I could repair a floor scratch. Looks like I have found the right tools. Thanks for the great video 👍
I wish I saw this first before taking on the hardwood flooring in the kitchen. At least in time to purchase the Mohawk hard wax for the high traffic area.
This reminds me. I painted a small rocking chair for my niece. Because the house has pine floors i decided to glue cork onto the chair to protect the floors. It worked just fine. But beware that not all glues work with cork
Beautiful work , Scott. Methinks you are a smidgen too persnickty, lol. From 4 to 5 feet away nobody could have seen your initial fill. But I can appreciate your desire for perfection and find myself on occasion spending extra time for that last one per cent!
That's pretty nice... I have some old hardwood floors that my wife managed to ding a bit. Looks like i can solve that problem without changing the floor boards. :-) Excellent video. :-)
This video explains what I've been doing wrong with these things, I use a heat gun on them and mash it into the spot but it creates a huge mess. I'll use a soldering iron.
One more comment. I use Mohawk rattle cans for touch ups. I think you get a lot for your money. They are a great alternative to pulling out the spray gun and compressor.
have you ever tried etching out the fill with a needle to match the lowlight and highlights throughout the wood? It looks like the material hardens fast enough that you can use etched out grooves as a mold to simulate the grain of the wood even if it's being cast in the material itself.
These would be great for use on finished wood products. When building new pieces, if I have to make a small fill I just use wood dust from the piece I'm working on (usually from my random orbit sander) and mix it with wood glue. That way it matches the colour of the wood and is at least as hard as the wood itself and takes a finish perfectly.
Thanks for sharing that Kren. What type of glue and finish are you using? Typically glue and sawdust will stand out once a finish is applied because it reacts differently than the side and end grain of wood. Scott
Curious about something when you were repairing the floor. How long did it actually take to complete the repair? I know the magic of video makes it appear much shorter. Thank you.
If I wasn't recording the work on video, this would have been less than 15 minutes. The filler dries very quickly, so adding different color only takes a few minutes. I hope that helps. Scott
Exactly the info I need to repair some damage to my old hardwood floors - thank you! One question: how will the fill react when the time comes for a full sanding / restoration of the floors?
What is the melting point of these wax-chalks? Some furnitures are in areas where the temperature can reach at least 25-40 Degree Celcius (77-104 Farenheight) i.e Sauna, garden etc, and some cleaning tools are steam tools as well putting a high steam temperature on floors.
For that hard wood floor 19:49 i think sawdust mixed with transparent wood glue will give better results. It will give the same color, and adding line with a marker, well it will do the same jobb. Also it has no cancer or reproductive harm 18:06...
Thank you for sharing this. Just yesterday I tried using a filler on a gouge in my hardwood floor and it won't take stain to match. I need another solution. Not certain I can remove the filler though without causing more damage. Any advice? Cheers!
To remove the old filler carefully, you can use some detail picks. They allow you to dig into the filler and carefully scrape it away so you're not creating anymore damage to the surrounding wood. I hope that helps. Scott
I'm looking all over YT and nobody can help me. I'm trying to dismantle a built in cupboard wall, and I need to get to the screws underneath the woodfiller on the back walls. How is that done? Any help or ideas about getting to the screws would be a godsend.
Can a coat of polyurethane be used on top of these fills? you mentioned lacquer, but the current coat on my floor is a satin poly. I want to try to match that sheen once I have the fill looking about right. Thanks!
No. I haven't tried that but I sometimes work in two colours at once where I know a single colour isn't close. It's an art to know what colours to blend. I can imaging a day 10 years from now, where I'll blend two sticks while they're liquid a nail the colour on the first try... practice makes perfect! Scott
do not have comment..but which is the best process to fill the old hinge holes in kitchen cabinets? I wold like to go to hidden hinges but then I would have unsightly marking where the old face frame hinges were.
I have deep holes in my hardwood floor the size of a finger tip. Previous owners obviously stapled padding/carpet directly onto the floor, and later forcibly yanked it up, tearing chunks out of the floor. I think the holes are too deep to completely fill with the burn in wood filler. any recommendation on what to use to fill the deepest part, so I can use the burn in filler on the surface to match the surrounding floor?
Yes, that's too large for wood filler. Replacing the damaged boards is the typical way to repair something with that much damage. I hope that helps. Scott
Great video brilliant stuff really interesting, not sure if you can get MOHAWK prouducts in the UK though, Thank You for the share, Stay Safe & have a nice day !!!.
Hi Scott, great video as always! The Amazon links to the Mohawk Hard Fill Kit show them as unavailable to purchase. Do you know of an alternative site that would ship to Canada?
Hi Tony. If you're operating a business, you can purchase these from Richlieu. Otherwise, I can help you by ordering them for you - connect with me via our website woodenitbenice.ca/pages/contact
Can you use the pieces of the quick fill burn in stick that you scrape off? Can you use the hard fill tool with the quick fill burn sticks on furniture?
Hi Sue. Yes, you can use the material you scrape off. I haven't tried the hard fill tool on quick fill, but I think it would work. I use quick fill on furniture so there typically isn't space to work with the tool on a flat area. Cheers. Scott
Hi again. I have the same color hardwood flooring with deep gouges and the FloorFix by CalFlor did not work well. I will try these hard fill burn in sticks. On the Mohawk website, I see the Hard Fil which you mention using in this video and Hard Fil Plus . Though you mention that you used just the regular Hard Fil burn in sticks in your video description and in this video, I see that you opened up the Hard Fil PLUS kit? On Mohawks website, they only have 6 colors available in the Hard Fil PLUS. Can you confirm whether you used the Hard Fil burn in sticks or the Hard Fil PLUS burn in sticks? Thanks again!
Sure. The package I have says "Hard Fill" on one line, and on the next line it says "Hard Fill Plus" in the same size font. I don't know why that is. I just read the product descriptions on the Mohawk website and the Hard Fill Plus is the one recommended for floors. I hope the helps.
Great video! This is information I can use to help fix some tack holes on some chairs I'm re-caning. The thing is where do I get the Mohawk Finishing Products? I live in Brantford, Ontario and haven't been able to find a retailer who carries them anywhere in the province. How did you get your Mohawk products?
I know this video is old, but can you tell me what that tool is, that rubber block with the ridges? The one that you used to even out the wax after applying it to the floor dent. I have been searching for hours trying to figure out what to Google to figure out the name of that.
That scraper is part of the Mohawk Hardfill Kit. It's not available online. You need to go to a specialty supplier for the kit. If you're in Canada, I can order you one through a commercial account. You can reach out via our website woodenitbenice.ca
Those "bruises" may come out with steam. If you put a damp cloth over the dent, then apply a hot iron, you may be able to restore the original shape of the wood. That would my suggestion. Scott
Product looks fantastic, unfortunately it's around 60 dollars here , even 1 stick is like 15 and 15 delivery. If I ever get on holidays again I'll pick up some packs.
So on a different subject. I have a end table that has bowed or cupped. I made it back in 74ish. What is a good way to get it flat again? It is multiple boards glued together. I'm sure back then I didn't do the grain properly.
I offer 1-on-1 advice sessions for detailed questions like this. I do these over Zoom so we can discuss your project and your skill level so I can help you. You can purchase them here woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
Yes, it will, provided there's a "rough" surface inside the damaged area for it to grab on to. The white colour would likely do well on the melamine... maybe I should do a demo of that. Scott
Hi Brad. The hard fill is very robust. I suggest the only reason to add a top coat is if you need to change the sheen (how much it shines) to match the surrounding area. Does that answer your question? Scott
Love your videos. How do you determine if putty or heat wax is appropriate? The size of the gouge? I have a cabinet that was gouged by movers. Maybe an eighth to a fourth of an inch wide. Thinking I should start with putty?
Scott: this was so informative. I like Mohawk products. They have always been quality products. Also, your touch to fixing these little issues is super. The designer in me loves it. Thanks, Carol from California
I could watch this for hours. I think this is a must have skill to learn and appreciate your usual thoroughness. Thanks Scott!
Glad you enjoyed it Sean. Thanks for posting a comment and sharing your throughs. Scott
And you gotta have patience too 🤣
There is another kind of product that I used nearly every day for 20 years. Thousands of repairs for furniture stores, moving companies, delivery companies and consumers. They are the hard resin sticks (originally called "shellac sticks") They come in transparent tinted (mostly amber shades) and opaque colors (including black and a variety of whites ). I used a wider blade burn-in knife that I used to both to add in the melted resin and then, with a burn in lube (gel), level it out. Then I rubbed out with steel wool. Top coated with touch up lacquer when needed. Another technique on ring- and semi-porous woods is to take a razor blade or utility knife to score in some graining. Also, if you don't have the color brushes, you can dispense a bit of color from a regular touch up marker on a piece of glass and use a detail brush to draw in the darker grain lines. All that said, the softer sticks are probably better for flooring as they will be more impact resistant. But the resin sticks for things like table tops that will be seen up close. Also, I think the resin sticks have a longer learning curve. But just another option.
Loved the example of transitioning from science to art by blending colors and drawing in grain lines.
Glad you liked that Robert. Cheers. Scott
This brought back memories of a place I worked at just out of high school decades ago. It was a furniture/appliance store and we had a repair department. The head guy in that department was a miracle worker with furniture or any kind of repair on wood or metal surfaces. He would fill cracks, holes, whatever and then paint the grain back in on the wood and I swear you could never find the repair when he was finished. It was amazing to watch. He used those burn in sticks all the time with a little pallet knife, and would have probably loved having that battery powered tool you have.
Thanks for the memories. You do great work.
That's a cool story Don! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
thank you my queen!!
I repair leather and vinyl for a living and the most important part of the job is coming as close as possible to making your repair seamless… like it never happened…. Color theory is an art… you got it bro
Mesmerising watching the procedure. Thanks. 😁👍🏻🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing that you're from Australia. Scott 🇨🇦
Great job, Scott. I need to fix a burn hole in a tabletop, so this is a perfect video for me.
Glad it was helpful David!
TY so much!!!
Congrats on the Mohawk sponsorship. Love their products!!!
Thanks. It's great partnership with Mohawk and I'm excited about it. Scott
I just went to the Mohawk site but it’s an unsecured site. Is this bothersome to folks?
@@Luis-f6q3e I get mine at my local Benjamin Moore store.
Fantastic demonstration, thank you.
Very nice work, and right on time. A local moving company has begun to use my services and scratch and dent items are prevalent. Even asked if I could repair a floor scratch. Looks like I have found the right tools. Thanks for the great video 👍
You're welcome Terry. Glad you found it helpful. Scott
Indeed professional
Glad you liked it
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and practical skills.
My pleasure! Cheers. Scott
Truly an artist! Bravo‼️
Thank you! Scott
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Brilliant! I have a date with some scratched furniture tonight!
Excellent! Have fun with it! Scott
I wish I saw this first before taking on the hardwood flooring in the kitchen. At least in time to purchase the Mohawk hard wax for the high traffic area.
This reminds me. I painted a small rocking chair for my niece. Because the house has pine floors i decided to glue cork onto the chair to protect the floors. It worked just fine. But beware that not all glues work with cork
Oh, that's interesting. What glues do and don't work with cork?
@@FixingFurniture I basically looked at what it said on the tin and looked for one that said it worked with cork
Awesome products!
Yes, these work well. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Excellent video, thank you so much. You are an excellent instructor!
You're very welcome!
Really like the look of the Hard Fill repair kit. But a little put off by the warnings on the sticks
Beautiful work , Scott. Methinks you are a smidgen too persnickty, lol. From 4 to 5 feet away nobody could have seen your initial fill. But I can appreciate your desire for perfection and find myself on occasion spending extra time for that last one per cent!
Thanks Michael. I've referred to myself as a recovering perfectionist a few times. I lean towards quality versus quick. Glad you like it. Scott
I love your videos! Thank you for sharing!!
Glad you like them! Thanks! Scott
That's pretty nice... I have some old hardwood floors that my wife managed to ding a bit. Looks like i can solve that problem without changing the floor boards. :-)
Excellent video. :-)
I'm happy to hear this is helpful for you. Good luck with your project. Scott
Thank you.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Great video
Thanks Dave!
Mohawk Rules!
Very interesting video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Scott
very very helpful
Thanks for sharing that Bill. Scott
This video explains what I've been doing wrong with these things, I use a heat gun on them and mash it into the spot but it creates a huge mess. I'll use a soldering iron.
Yes, a soldering iron will make this much easier for you. Cheers. Scott
thanks
You're welcome!
Very interesting video
Glad you think so!
wonderful Tutorial Richard Lake County Ca.
Glad you liked it Richard. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
One more comment. I use Mohawk rattle cans for touch ups. I think you get a lot for your money. They are a great alternative to pulling out the spray gun and compressor.
Good point. Thanks for sharing that!
Great great job
thank you very much
have you ever tried etching out the fill with a needle to match the lowlight and highlights throughout the wood? It looks like the material hardens fast enough that you can use etched out grooves as a mold to simulate the grain of the wood even if it's being cast in the material itself.
It is possible to etch lines in the filler if there's visible grain texture on the wood being repaired. You have a keen eye. Scott
These would be great for use on finished wood products. When building new pieces, if I have to make a small fill I just use wood dust from the piece I'm working on (usually from my random orbit sander) and mix it with wood glue. That way it matches the colour of the wood and is at least as hard as the wood itself and takes a finish perfectly.
Thanks for sharing that Kren. What type of glue and finish are you using? Typically glue and sawdust will stand out once a finish is applied because it reacts differently than the side and end grain of wood. Scott
Love your channel… will send a donation to Patreon
Glad you like it Chaire. We no longer use Patreon but thank you for the high-five! Cheers. Scott
Curious about something when you were repairing the floor. How long did it actually take to complete the repair? I know the magic of video makes it appear much shorter. Thank you.
If I wasn't recording the work on video, this would have been less than 15 minutes. The filler dries very quickly, so adding different color only takes a few minutes. I hope that helps. Scott
Exactly the info I need to repair some damage to my old hardwood floors - thank you! One question: how will the fill react when the time comes for a full sanding / restoration of the floors?
Glad it was helpful. I don't know exactly how it will react to floor sanding. I suppose it depends how deep the repair was. Scott
Can I just hire you to fix my “wood inspired” vinyl plank flooring? 😩 this is so hard
If you live in Brooklin, Ontario, Canada... yes, give us a call. Scott
What is the melting point of these wax-chalks?
Some furnitures are in areas where the temperature can reach at least 25-40 Degree Celcius (77-104 Farenheight) i.e Sauna, garden etc, and some cleaning tools are steam tools as well putting a high steam temperature on floors.
Can you also do this with a big cabinet that's standing straight up and is hard to lay down?
A burning stick is just wax. Here in the UK we use shellac sticks.
I was wondering if you were going to use a brushtip marker for the graining well done.. it came out perfectly
Thank you. Cheers. Scott
For that hard wood floor 19:49 i think sawdust mixed with transparent wood glue will give better results.
It will give the same color, and adding line with a marker, well it will do the same jobb.
Also it has no cancer or reproductive harm 18:06...
Thank you for sharing this. Just yesterday I tried using a filler on a gouge in my hardwood floor and it won't take stain to match. I need another solution. Not certain I can remove the filler though without causing more damage. Any advice? Cheers!
To remove the old filler carefully, you can use some detail picks. They allow you to dig into the filler and carefully scrape it away so you're not creating anymore damage to the surrounding wood. I hope that helps. Scott
Hello. Thank you for this video. I have a question. Do you cover the wax with varnish or leave it without varnish?
Is this a better method for filling nail holes in kitchen cabinets versus trying to fill/match wood filler to the bare unfinished wood?
I too have a flexible tip
I'm looking all over YT and nobody can help me. I'm trying to dismantle a built in cupboard wall, and I need to get to the screws underneath the woodfiller on the back walls. How is that done? Any help or ideas about getting to the screws would be a godsend.
Can a coat of polyurethane be used on top of these fills? you mentioned lacquer, but the current coat on my floor is a satin poly. I want to try to match that sheen once I have the fill looking about right. Thanks!
thanks for this great video!!! can you please list all the products and tools that you used for the floor repair
The products are in the video description. If you expand the section below the video, you will see the items and links. Scott
How would you cover the quikduk furniture repair with a waterbased clear, is it waxy? Will Sealcoat work as a barrier coat? Thanks!
They don’t have the burn in kit anymore
Is there a complete kit you recommend?
Impressive! Just out of curiosity, have you ever tried melting & mixing in a bottle cap, etc. then filling with that?
No. I haven't tried that but I sometimes work in two colours at once where I know a single colour isn't close. It's an art to know what colours to blend. I can imaging a day 10 years from now, where I'll blend two sticks while they're liquid a nail the colour on the first try... practice makes perfect! Scott
do not have comment..but which is the best process to fill the old hinge holes in kitchen cabinets? I wold like to go to hidden hinges but then I would have unsightly marking where the old face frame hinges were.
Also, can it be used for parquet teak wood floor?
Yes, it can. Scott
I have deep holes in my hardwood floor the size of a finger tip. Previous owners obviously stapled padding/carpet directly onto the floor, and later forcibly yanked it up, tearing chunks out of the floor. I think the holes are too deep to completely fill with the burn in wood filler. any recommendation on what to use to fill the deepest part, so I can use the burn in filler on the surface to match the surrounding floor?
Yes, that's too large for wood filler. Replacing the damaged boards is the typical way to repair something with that much damage. I hope that helps. Scott
Great video brilliant stuff really interesting, not sure if you can get MOHAWK prouducts in the UK though, Thank You for the share, Stay Safe & have a nice day !!!.
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers. Scott
Hi Scott, great video as always! The Amazon links to the Mohawk Hard Fill Kit show them as unavailable to purchase. Do you know of an alternative site that would ship to Canada?
Hi Tony. If you're operating a business, you can purchase these from Richlieu. Otherwise, I can help you by ordering them for you - connect with me via our website woodenitbenice.ca/pages/contact
Can you use the pieces of the quick fill burn in stick that you scrape off?
Can you use the hard fill tool with the quick fill burn sticks on furniture?
Hi Sue. Yes, you can use the material you scrape off. I haven't tried the hard fill tool on quick fill, but I think it would work. I use quick fill on furniture so there typically isn't space to work with the tool on a flat area. Cheers. Scott
Can I enquire as where to buy the burning sticks and all the needed tools as I'm planning to do some work on my parquet floor. Thanks a lot.
Hi again. I have the same color hardwood flooring with deep gouges and the FloorFix by CalFlor did not work well. I will try these hard fill burn in sticks. On the Mohawk website, I see the Hard Fil which you mention using in this video and Hard Fil Plus . Though you mention that you used just the regular Hard Fil burn in sticks in your video description and in this video, I see that you opened up the Hard Fil PLUS kit? On Mohawks website, they only have 6 colors available in the Hard Fil PLUS. Can you confirm whether you used the Hard Fil burn in sticks or the Hard Fil PLUS burn in sticks? Thanks again!
Sure. The package I have says "Hard Fill" on one line, and on the next line it says "Hard Fill Plus" in the same size font. I don't know why that is. I just read the product descriptions on the Mohawk website and the Hard Fill Plus is the one recommended for floors. I hope the helps.
Great video! This is information I can use to help fix some tack holes on some chairs I'm re-caning. The thing is where do I get the Mohawk Finishing Products? I live in Brantford, Ontario and haven't been able to find a retailer who carries them anywhere in the province. How did you get your Mohawk products?
I know this video is old, but can you tell me what that tool is, that rubber block with the ridges? The one that you used to even out the wax after applying it to the floor dent. I have been searching for hours trying to figure out what to Google to figure out the name of that.
That scraper is part of the Mohawk Hardfill Kit. It's not available online. You need to go to a specialty supplier for the kit. If you're in Canada, I can order you one through a commercial account. You can reach out via our website woodenitbenice.ca
I have chairs that are gouged from being pushed against the table edge , would this be the method to fix?
Those "bruises" may come out with steam. If you put a damp cloth over the dent, then apply a hot iron, you may be able to restore the original shape of the wood. That would my suggestion. Scott
Product looks fantastic, unfortunately it's around 60 dollars here , even 1 stick is like 15 and 15 delivery. If I ever get on holidays again I'll pick up some packs.
Oh, that''s too bad. Where are you located? Scott
So on a different subject. I have a end table that has bowed or cupped. I made it back in 74ish. What is a good way to get it flat again? It is multiple boards glued together. I'm sure back then I didn't do the grain properly.
I offer 1-on-1 advice sessions for detailed questions like this. I do these over Zoom so we can discuss your project and your skill level so I can help you. You can purchase them here woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
How do I buy this? I live in Singapore.
It's available on Amazon, but I don't know if that's available to you. Maybe can search your local market for "burn-in wood filler"? Scott
Very interesting topic! Will filler sticks also work for laminat surfaces or melamine if they have little dings?
Yes, it will, provided there's a "rough" surface inside the damaged area for it to grab on to. The white colour would likely do well on the melamine... maybe I should do a demo of that. Scott
@@FixingFurniture I have IKEA fake birch in mind :-)
@fixing furniture how do you determine how much punishment a hard fill stick can take in order to know if you need a finish on top of it?
Hi Brad. The hard fill is very robust. I suggest the only reason to add a top coat is if you need to change the sheen (how much it shines) to match the surrounding area. Does that answer your question? Scott
Love your videos. How do you determine if putty or heat wax is appropriate? The size of the gouge? I have a cabinet that was gouged by movers. Maybe an eighth to a fourth of an inch wide. Thinking I should start with putty?
Scott, One small criticism. You end a lot of your sentences like a question? Please correct that? That should do it? Thank you?
Scott: this was so informative. I like Mohawk products. They have always been quality products. Also, your touch to fixing these little issues is super. The designer in me loves it. Thanks, Carol from California
Thanks for the feedback Carol. Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers. Scott
The information here is good, but the video is so dark and low contrast that it’s hard to watch.
Great video
Thank you Mark, and thank you for being a subscriber. Scott
Another excellent video Scott! Bedankt
Thanks Bob! Cheers