Compared 6 products. Intros, demonstration, conclusions. Left nothing out. All within 6 mins and 34 seconds. You sir, are legend at not wasting a UA-camr's time with unnecessary fill. More content creators could greatly benefit from following your lead. Thank you for caring about our time.
From my point of view I consume a lot of UA-cam to learn things and or to be entertained. It kind of sucks when non entertaining people ramble on for 7 minutes about nothing😂 I try to avoid that the best I can! I do wish on this video I had some better camera sliders or something to get better shots of the test results… and had a bit more time to have worked out and compiled some of the details better.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter don't sweat it my brother. For those of us that have some experience using these products, what you provided was perfect. Anywhere else, this a 24 min video, and unfortunately we've grown use to it. I watch a lot of your videos, and this is your thing. And what that thing is, of course, is that you are a consumer of info - you know what we've come here for, and you deliver that. Please don't ever 'fix' that. 🧡
I fill a lot of nail holes on paint grade trim and my favorite method to date is the drydex but only in a tube. You don’t have to worry about the material drying out or the crappy lid and it goes a long way. The tube allows you to control the amount of material on your finger tip very well and you can easily smash in the amount the fill the hole, then wipe away the excess and I immediately follow up with a light feathered wipe over top of the filled hole to accommodate shrinkage. Even a small room will usually be ready to start sanding by the time I would my way around to my starting point. After that the key is a 1/4 sheet of 3M gold 180 grit. It removes the material in a couple of light swipes, it leaves a very smooth finish without the over sanding divot, and it doesn’t gum up at all. One 1/4 of a sheet goes a very long way. With 18 gauge nail holes or smaller I typically am good to go in one pass, a 15 gauge hole will still often require 2 coats.
@@95thousandroses the first time I used dry dex I was taught to carry a damp (just not soaking wet) rag and wipe the repair just before it dries or as the last of the pink is gone. Doesn't get any smoother but I don't know why I don't see more people doing this.
Been painting for 25+ years and the old school method is by far the best. Crawfords painters putty rolled into a ball ,then you roll it in plaster of Paris. it sets quick and easy to sand the next day. Just push it in with your finger some bigger holes may need a 2nd application.
I’ve been a landlord for over 35 years, and have had great success with Ready Patch. I do one coat, slightly overfilled, and sand with a damp sanding sponge. Slightly wetting the sponge makes the sanding much easier, and gives a smooth finish. I also put a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the open can, then add the lid; make sure the lid is on tight, and the product will stay soft.
Kudos to anyone who actually applies two coats of anything as a finish nail filler and sands between coats. With all the things I have to do in my life, it gets one coat, sanded and painted. The difference in that second coat and second sanding is one of those things that I accept and move on with my life.
Interesting video. I don't know any professional who fills holes with a finger. RockHard is hugely popular among NYC contractors, and I've been using it for decades. Yes, you have to mix, but I love that I get to control the consistency, depending on the hole's size. But mostly, I love the product's shelf life. It NEVER dries out. It can sit on the shelf for years and still be perfectly usable. I also LOVE how easy it is to sand once dry. It even sands beautifully with 600 grit paper around gentle edges. I also love how quick drying it is. And, you can add color to it for custom color work. I can't recommend RockHard enough.
Thanks! I understand that the Durham's Water Putty loses points for needing to be mixed, BUT, I do LOVE that it doesn't have me reaching for the filler and discover it has dried out and gone bad! Yes, if availabIe I grab other things first, but sooooo often the spackle/wood filler/putty is no longer good, and the water putty sits there for decades, always ready when I need it!
I have a brand new can ready to try soon. I saw it on another video, and immediately thought "it won't dry out". All other ones do and I waste most of the container. EDIT: So far I hate it. I get it mixed to just the right consistency, fill a couple holes, then it's hard and I dump, mix, repeat. I can't even fill one side of door casing trim nails before it's a ROCK! At least with the painters putty I can get through a project in decent time. Not with Durhams
i use one light coat of drydex with a finger... then instead of sanding, i use a slightly damp microfiber cloth (the smooth side, not the coarse)... the holes literally disappear. and it's the fastest, cleanest method i've ever seen.
Love your videos ! Your fun to watch. As a trim carpenter….I find the best way is to minimize your holes by using a stud finder and nailing in the profile so you don’t see them. Then use a bit of Color matched caulk to fill the line where the nail is. I pre spray all my base before install. Flat stock trim I tend to pre spray and glue on with an instant bonding system so I have no nails to deal with at all. I use a 21 gauge Brad nailer for standard trim and an 18 gauge for premium trim 5/8” and up. 1-9/16” brads always to stay away from waterlines etc
@nailit1860 - planning to install flat stock trim in the garage - what brand bonding/glue you like to use for that? Also I was taught the same technique for nailing and pre-spraying - what brand of color-matched caulk you use and how you get it? I never heard of that aside from the typical DAP stuff in the store like White, Brown, Almond, etc.
This video is incredibly helpful! I love the step-by-step instructions and the emphasis on choosing the right filler for a seamless finish. Your tip about sanding and painting for a professional look is a game-changer
I started housepainting in 1977 and we always kept a ball of Dap 33 glazing compound in out shirt pocket to fill nail holes. Press it in with your thumb and run your putty knife under your thumb and the hole was filled. If the putty got a little dry you rolled it around in your palms and the oil from your skin and the heat would soften it. If it was too soft and oily some dust made it more workable. I think it's kind of silly that zero evidence of a fastener is what people expect today - most people never get down to look at the basebaord anyway.
Nice video thanks for info, I find all your videos very helpful. I am a long time painter and please realize it also matters what wood/substrate you apply your filler to. Ideally hard woods or metal you want a harder filler and soft woods a softer filler. A soft filler on a hardwood especially if hand sanding will dig out the filler during sanding. A hard filler on soft wood and the wood around the hole will sand away before the filler. At least that’s what I was taught long ago, I would love to see a test that accounted for this.
When doing trim work, i set the nailer at about a 1/32” depth from the surface, give baseboards one coat of finger applied drydex and two on door casings, rarely sanding. The results are always good. If you crawl around on your hands and knees, you might be able to spot a nail here and there from certain angles, but not when you’re standing or sitting. I’m not knocking anyone who wants a perfect job, but i fail to see the point of the extra work. As well, trying to find every white filled nail hole on a white baseboard and then finding them all again to sand is a major pain in the butt.
I do house prepping and I love ready patch. so long as you keep it wet and not dried out, it's a winner, shapeable like a smooth drywall mud, can do small or large repairs on painted wood trim or door frames. One coat, dries quickly.
I've filled thousands (30 years in new construction) of nail holes with the green label spackle from Sherwin Williams. It's all I'll use. It works better than all of those.
As a professional painter in the northeast, I use the redipatch on window sills, and areas on trim and doors where a layer or two of paint is missing, I don’t use it on holes. It’s like a skim coat.
I like the Durham Puddy because of the reason he counted as negative... the mixing! I hate opening those other products only to discover it has dried out and is now useless. The Durham can be stored for as little or long as you want. Plus, it is very inexpensive.
Thank you for trying everything out. Always share your videos to my husband. One of his major peeves is nail holes especially because of all the molding we just did in our house.
The best filler is 20 minute mud .easy to apply , easy sand flush then prime doesn't Crack, pop etc been using it for 20 years .. no haters, please . Love you all in a special way 😊
Joint compound will get hairline cracks after the 2nd door slam. That’s been my experience, I prefer painters or Crawford putty knife smooth. But if that works for you great
Perhaps the best, most comprehensive and helpful test/review ever published on UA-cam. I was having trouble getting flawless filled nail holes and this fixed it for me. Thanks so much!!!
As a finishing carpenter, Dynapatch Pro is the best. It sands at the same rate as wood, dries fast, and is quite hard. Gotta keep the lid on it as it will get crumbly fast. I make solid blocks for sanding by spray glue sandpaper on MDF.
The Dyna patch pro isn't available in my area. It's only available online. I use the Elmer's and have been happy with it. I also like the fact that it's in a squeezable tube. Makes it easy to apply, and it doesn't dry out like canned patch compounds seem to do.
Dap painter's putty # 53. Roll it into a ball in your hands to warm up and push it into holes and smooth with fingers....no sanding! This product is made for nail holes and that's why millions of painters use it. I've been painting for over 40 years. Who in the heck wants to sand filler in a new house with thousands of holes? It would take days to sand and dust all of those spots. Think efficiency!
Here’s the way I just finished repainting 10 units, converting from natural wood trim to white trim. First; take a surrated knife and neatly cut the face and two sides of of your sponge sanding block. Second; Use your finger and apply a good coat of drydex over the holes. Next; don’t let it dry. Wipe it with your wet sponge that you just made. The sponge used for sanding blocks is super dense and won’t “ dip “ into the hole and leave you a divot. Rinse and re-wet the sponge as needed. The units I was doing had about 600-700 holes each, both old school and brad nails. Had I waited for any product to dry and then sanded it, it would have cost my client a fortune, or me the job. Try it, it works. Cheers
Interesting results for the Drydex compared to your last test video where you said it did well on the nail holes. I think it depends on the sanding as it’s really easy to oversand. I found a good method for the Drydex with no sanding, but takes a light touch, is: using finger or knife, fill hole and wipe off all sparkle around the hole. It’s ok if the hole is slightly under filled. Second fill, do the same thing. With a light touch I have got perfect results from that. It’s either that, or use the Dynapatch, but it will take a little muscle sanding it.
Yes I was wrong about drydex. I think it’s just too soft to be great for nail holes. It’s probably fine with a lower gloss paint, but with the high gloss it even semi gloss…it kind of sucks.
That's exactly how you do it. Ask any painter. Fill and wipe with your finger. Once it's painted with semi-gloss trim paint nobody will ever notice if it's slightly underfilled.
Been using dry dex for years. I watched this last week and switched to Alex spackle for the crown i imstalled and I'm almost embarrassed I ever used dex. Thank you for this
Drydex is garbage. It’s super chalky, porous, and requires you to back brush/roll a first coat of paint to work into it or else it does not cover. It also flashes.
I just recently discovered your channel. I appreciate your sense of humour and honest perspective, not to mention the immensely useful tips that you are giving us. Keep up the great work.
I've been doing a lot of work with stained rather than painted trim and I noticed the best way to fill is (lightly) mixing sawdust from refinishing the piece and mixing that with epoxy. It's not the easiest to work with and takes a lot of skill, though. More so than the problem of learning the right ratio of sawdust to epoxy was the issue of accidentally using too much around the outside of the hole which causes some issues with staining.
Thanks buddy, that would be great! Hopefully in the next few months I’ll get into a space where I can really test some things out in a home setting! It’s been a bit of struggle making the videos in my own family home.
I'm a contractor and use mostly Dry-Dex. I use a single application with my finger leaving it overfilled and I don't sand it. I smooth it with a damp cleaning sponge.
When I do this, I first lay down a little section of painter's tape where I'm going to nail the board and then I drive the nail through the tape. Applying the filler with the tape still in place makes a very clean fill and rarely requires any sanding at all.
I've been using M&H for years. IMO it is the best on painted wood white trim. I put it on with a clean putty knife and then strike off any excess. II use my finger in tough spots. As I'm filling, I always have a wet(tightly wrung out) microfiber rag and give each spot a quick wipe. Never or rarely need any sanding or touch up. To each his own.
Easy answer is Dap Bright White caulk. I like to paint my trim before installing it and this caulk easily covers small holes from a brad nailer and it perfectly matches Sherwin Williams bright white. No sanding needed. Quick and easy.
Redcap Dap window glazing 33 one wipe to the nail hole, another wipe to flatten, paint right away, never shrinks or cracks, by far the best ive ever used. Painted for years using drydex and other stuff with a knife, my experience no knife needed just finger and glazing. Try it and let me know
Hey bro this video you made is excellent perfect really. You got right to the point you gave plenty of information tone of voice was appropriate. I've seen a bunch of your videos I haven't seen all of them but this one here is my favorite so far. Today you got a new subscriber I appreciate your work bro keep up the good work
As a pretty extensive DIYer, when filling nail holes on painted trim I usually paint the trim before installing, then fill Brad nail holes with a homemade compound of cornstarch and whatever paint I used on the trim (usually a semigloss melamine). Has worked very well for small Brad nail holes- I mix it into a pretty dry putty then just work a small amount in with a thumb and rub off excess.
I really appreciate the tests and the result are clear. That being said, there is always a tradeoff with time. I've found it's just much faster to use drydex then come behind with a artist bush and touchup the holes. I use a little bit more than I have then after drying I come behind with damp paper towel again. I don't do any sanding and then use artist brush to paint just the holes.
Best result I found is two applications of filler and priming the casing with an airless completely before applying paint. The primer seals the filler and makes it invisible. Good video, cheers.
Excellent work, thank you. For architrave, in the UK, I use a spackle ( feels like plaster with a pva added) on a putty knife and slightly over fill. I then come back 15 mins later and rub down, very lightly, with a damp cloth to remove the excess, no need for sanding.
That’s an interesting technique Michael. I’ve tried something similar with the Drydex and damp paper towel. It worked so so, I’m sure the spackle would be a better option.
I've got ill fitted crown moulding to clean up and a main floor of baseboards to reinstall, this video is going to pay a lot more than the 6 minute investment in watching it. BTW since I wasn't falling asleep in my chair waiting for the end, I enjoyed the bloopers at the end too. Good, solid vid. Thx!
The best thing that I have found is a one coat, push in with your thumb and sand as you fill the whole. To do that, you take some window glazing putty--- add some of that dry powder putty to it ( this is to harden after some time). Mix it to a ball, it will be kind of flaky almost, then push it in and sand flat----the glazing will not shrink and the powder takes some time to harden but you can paint it as you use it.
Soooooo, I was all set to buy the Shur Stik product but since it's made in Canada, I'm not going to pay $13.50 U.S. for shipping on a Ten Dollar product. Then, the Dyna Patch must also be made in Canada since I cannot find it in the States! I guess I need a U.S. based person for the review.
I've always used spackle, but my painters use UGL Glazol elastic glazing compound, no sanding. I was flipping a house and couldn't get the trim right (trying to guess where the floor leveling was going to be) and it looked like I shot it with a shotgun. When they got finished it was perfect. I've since used it, you have to roll it around in your hand to get it pliable and push into to hole with thumb twisting a little as you remove excess. And did i say no sanding.
Thanks for taking the time to show us most of the common options. That helps a lot. HOWEVER. The "CLUE" reference was clever but we shouldn't have to wait for the outtakes for the funny stuff. Your grades. "A" on tech info. "C" on funniness. Overall grade, "B".
Crawfords spackle in green can is the best product, hands down. Does not shrink and extremely easy to sand. Quick spot prime then paint, and you sre done.
Nice thorough test. I was always taught by the carpenter I started with to do base coat with bondo and finish coat with Dyna patch. This is for doing joints in flat stock and mitres. The bondo gives a good resistance to cracking. Which on larger joints the dyna patch tends to do. But for nail holes, you can't beat it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I believe Bondo is the brand. Whatever their regular body filler is. You can get it at Canadian Tire. Recommend the small container, as the large is quite a lot.
My professional painter buddy swears by redi+patch. The black can with orange lettering. I've used it, like it ok. But not perfect in my eyes. I'll try your recommendation. You haven't let me down yet!
As a painter we get nice results with dap glazing/ painters putty..but the trick is to ..what we call knifing the product into the holes. Takes practice to get it right but when you do it's a perfect! Hey..no sanding involved.
Used DryDex for the last 15 years with zero problems. Yes it shrinks so allow extra above the surface to compensate then sand flat. My biggest issue is MDF. When nailing MDF it puffs up the nail hole like a mini volcano and is a pain to get flat as the surface then roughs up around the nail hole. Hate that stuff. Back in the UK we just used window putty and it was awesome.
Your videos are so great! I learn something new every time I watch! Can't wait until you get a million subs & some sponsors! You're on your way to greatness!!!
I find glazing putty to be the most effective, yes, normally used by auto body shops. Fill with a putty knife and sand with 150 grit. One coat and done.only issue is it’s red so I have to hit with primer before top coat.
Very good video. Out of curiosity why not use drywall mud? I know that sounds different but I have always used a quick dry 45 or 90 on my nail holes and I’ve never had an issue with them bleeding through. They finish off completely flush. No shrinkage, it works perfect
Mud expands more like sheetrock, wood expands and contacts more than mineral based surfaces. 2nd reason is adhesive, drywall patch has less adhesive than spackle so it sands more easily and more evenly. So, spackle sticks better to wood and finished surfaces as most trim has at least a semi gloss finish, ie more adhesion needed and is more crack resistant. The negative to basic spackle is harder to sand. The higher end ones (MH DP and the one his paint store recommended) have finer aggregate and different adhesives so they get the better stick without being as much of a bitch to sand as wood filler (wood filler =elmur's glue + sawdust)
Pro finishing carpenter here Pre paint your base boards and use a small amount of adhesive to the back of the baseboard when you install it. Then use a 18 gauge brad nailer and nail in the (Notch or V of the profile) and wipe it with a tiny bit of DAP/Alex plus and it’s invisible to the eye (light refracts different in the notch) and no sanding on your hands and knees and you make the same money with half the effort (no crawling on your knees sanding and painting after) You’re welcome
A couple of things if two coats the first with Dyna and the second with Shur Also I cover my half used containers with clingwrap. I shove it into the center and spiral my way out to the edge. Tubs last a good long time since oxygen can’t get to the material. Works on cold brew coffee too Not as acidic.
Completely agree with the DryDex. Multiple coats and careful sanding and I can still see nail divots in my trim. Driving me crazy. I’m done using that.
If you are using actual spray paint on your trim it will be ultra thin when it dries. Water based paint will be much thicker and will hide the holes better.
@@blaster-zy7xx considering how many nail holes I've filled over the last 34 years as a painter, I'm just going to say that most of them will work just fine if you know how to apply them properly. The spray paint only proves that the guy doesn't know how to fill nail holes properly.
@blaster-zy7xx you put in enough spackle to fill the hole, plus a little more to allow for shrinkage, then you and it down. If you use putty instead of spackle, then you can just level it off and leave it. Not that hard. Like I said, using spray paint was useless and pointless. If it's raw wood, you will prime it after you sand it, then do two coats of finish. You're not going to see imperfections if you do it that way.
@@michaeldiffey3791 That's pretty much the way I have always done it. But I never nail raw wood trim if it will be painted. I always prime and paint all trim first, then cut and install the trim, then caulk edges and fill the nail holes, then one last touch up coat of paint. I have never done two coats of filler on trim, that seem excessive. but I will do it on cabinetry. Thanks for your input.
As a landlord, color matched wax 'crayon' wax type. Push hard to force it in, then polish the excess off like shoe wax. Too good for tenants and super easy.
Mh ready patch is a patching compound better used on large gauges or projects needed to shape. It’s just like Bondo but takes longer to sand and no mixing
I agree. Worked great for me. If you want true perfection, you do the Elmers for the bulk of the hole filling and then Bondo Glazing and spot putty (red stuff in tube) to make the holes and other small imperfections absolutely smooth. I try to emulate this guy ua-cam.com/video/Q7XbqorZV5c/v-deo.html You do have to have to use a primer that can block the red though. Again, it's not a hole filler, as the Funny Carpenter tried previously, it's a "surface perfecter".
I kind of hate that glazing “bondo”. I’ve tried to do some stuff off camera using it to top coat over Elmer’s. I don’t like it! It stinks like crazy and I never get the best results with it. That be said I’ve seen guys do some pretty great stuff with it on jobs.
It’s tough to go wrong! I kind of crapped the bed here when I didn’t use white Elmers. I had to do 5 coats of this super toxic spray paint and it still didn’t really cover the best with the natural filler.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I agree on the smell. There are few things that more immediately make you think "this stuff is probably kiling brain cells or causing cancer" :( I've taken to wearing my 3M full facemask while applying. I love that thing. I think you should make this test a yearly thing. Next time don't use the spray paint, though, LOL.
You missed one: FamoWood 40042144 Latex Wood Filler. It's water soluble, dries in 15 min, comes in multiple shades (colors) and container sizes. I use my finger to press it into the holes and corners and use 220 grit paper to knock it down or form it to the shape of the molding. Leave it a little bit "proud" and you never have to use a 2nd application. If you pick a color that is in the same neighborhood as the paint, one coat covers it.
Oatey makes a fill stick. You can get it at lowes back with the plumbing stuff. It’s a long stick. You knead it until soft and it sets up rock hard. Very good for fixing chips on casing and jamb
This was exactly what I needed. Perfect video packed with educational content and a little humor! Loved the clue reference, I was thinking the same thing as you were saying it. Definitely going out and getting that Dynapatch - thank ya, sir!
Crawford vinyl spackle is the best for nail holes. Never use a knife or flat edge to apply putty or spackle. Use your finger and apply enough that there's kind of a dome over the nail hole. If you don't when it dries it leaves an indent. Make sure when it dries its still raised and then sand smooth. Also the size of the nail hole makes a big difference. If the appropriate nail was used. Their hole is easy to cover. If your using big nails in trim. Which you shouldn't. You'll have to leave a taller dome over the hole so it doesn't sink in when it dries. If you're wiping or scraping the putty flat when applying you are going to have nail holes that show. Not all but some. Apply raised, sand smooth.
The pink drydex works great, works well on walls for holes & large areas that was torn down to the drywall paper, as for wood holes havent tried it yet but i wouldnt see any problem using it to fill in nail holes on wood or mdf boards, key factor is not to use much at all on boards very thin layer just to cover hole sand down lightly hour later with 220 grit that there is no over lapping around holes apply very light primer light sand primer then once painted wouldnt be able yo tell there was ever holes on board.
I was really excited watching this video. One suggestion is to better show each product and where we can get it. I am in the Boston area and cannot locate either of your top two choices!
Keep in mind if you're a homeowner you don't want to use a hard to sand product because you will use to much and sanding will be miserable! 1. Fill nail holes and sand 2. Prime wood then check for holes that need to be filled!
One proud standing application with the correct style blade is the correct way. With the correct knife, you can push the putty into the hole, leave the putty standing proud to allow for shrinkage in an area not much bigger than the nail hole, making it easy to sand. Time is money, doing the same process several times over doesn't cut it.
I'm honestly shocked by the MH results. I wonder if they changed the formulation? For decades I've MH has always been my go to on ANY type of wood patching that isn't caulkable. The oil base has just always had better adhesion than anything else on painted surfaces while remaining incredibly easily sandable. I'll def try out the dynapatch. Can you run a test with larger bruises...ie simulate like pet scratches & hammer/furniture divots? That's where MH generally shines curious how DP performs. Also curious how DP performs on finished semi/high gloss paint surfaces. All trim I install I pre paint with semi or high gloss before install so all I gotta do is nail patch and touch up paint post install.
FYI….220 grit paper is much better than 150 grit paper for sanding filler….this coming from a professional painter…other than that you are right on money…I do appreciate your video👍🏽
I love Ready Patch, especially if you have damaged trim with nicks and gouges , you need multiple coats and tuffer to sand but the results is what I look for
Compared 6 products. Intros, demonstration, conclusions. Left nothing out. All within 6 mins and 34 seconds. You sir, are legend at not wasting a UA-camr's time with unnecessary fill. More content creators could greatly benefit from following your lead. Thank you for caring about our time.
From my point of view I consume a lot of UA-cam to learn things and or to be entertained. It kind of sucks when non entertaining people ramble on for 7 minutes about nothing😂 I try to avoid that the best I can! I do wish on this video I had some better camera sliders or something to get better shots of the test results… and had a bit more time to have worked out and compiled some of the details better.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter don't sweat it my brother. For those of us that have some experience using these products, what you provided was perfect. Anywhere else, this a 24 min video, and unfortunately we've grown use to it. I watch a lot of your videos, and this is your thing. And what that thing is, of course, is that you are a consumer of info - you know what we've come here for, and you deliver that. Please don't ever 'fix' that. 🧡
I also realized that I'm not subscribed. I 'fixed' that.
I agree right here. Great video you got another sub right here today. I'm excited to go do some patching 😆
I know; even had time for bloopers at the end!
Perfect I knew there was a reason why I hadn’t filled those nail holes for the last 4 weeks. This video was what I was waiting for 😂
I’ll buy it.
Same here🤣🤣
Four weeks I’m going on a year 😂😮
😂😂
@@steviec67 2 years +...but that ends soon! Grateful for this video.
You did a very good job with this video. No fluff, no annoying music, just the facts. 👍🇺🇸
I fill a lot of nail holes on paint grade trim and my favorite method to date is the drydex but only in a tube. You don’t have to worry about the material drying out or the crappy lid and it goes a long way. The tube allows you to control the amount of material on your finger tip very well and you can easily smash in the amount the fill the hole, then wipe away the excess and I immediately follow up with a light feathered wipe over top of the filled hole to accommodate shrinkage. Even a small room will usually be ready to start sanding by the time I would my way around to my starting point. After that the key is a 1/4 sheet of 3M gold 180 grit. It removes the material in a couple of light swipes, it leaves a very smooth finish without the over sanding divot, and it doesn’t gum up at all. One 1/4 of a sheet goes a very long way. With 18 gauge nail holes or smaller I typically am good to go in one pass, a 15 gauge hole will still often require 2 coats.
I'm pretty happy with drydex on the finger. One hard swipe to press it in and immediately another light dab over top for shrinkage.
@@95thousandroses the first time I used dry dex I was taught to carry a damp (just not soaking wet) rag and wipe the repair just before it dries or as the last of the pink is gone. Doesn't get any smoother but I don't know why I don't see more people doing this.
@bradoshaholmes2867 I'll have to try that. Seems like the rag would pull a little filler out of the hole though making it ever so slightly concave.
Been painting for 25+ years and the old school method is by far the best. Crawfords painters putty rolled into a ball ,then you roll it in plaster of Paris. it sets quick and easy to sand the next day. Just push it in with your finger some bigger holes may need a 2nd application.
Thank you so much for not making this a 15 minute video. You get right to the point! I love it.
Exactly.
Yeah, man do I appreciate the relevant information without trying to turn it into a documentary.
the outtakes at the ending are fun as well
Amen.
Agree with pops
I’ve been a landlord for over 35 years, and have had great success with Ready Patch. I do one coat, slightly overfilled, and sand with a damp sanding sponge. Slightly wetting the sponge makes the sanding much easier, and gives a smooth finish. I also put a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the open can, then add the lid; make sure the lid is on tight, and the product will stay soft.
Kudos to anyone who actually applies two coats of anything as a finish nail filler and sands between coats. With all the things I have to do in my life, it gets one coat, sanded and painted. The difference in that second coat and second sanding is one of those things that I accept and move on with my life.
Interesting video. I don't know any professional who fills holes with a finger. RockHard is hugely popular among NYC contractors, and I've been using it for decades. Yes, you have to mix, but I love that I get to control the consistency, depending on the hole's size. But mostly, I love the product's shelf life. It NEVER dries out. It can sit on the shelf for years and still be perfectly usable. I also LOVE how easy it is to sand once dry. It even sands beautifully with 600 grit paper around gentle edges. I also love how quick drying it is. And, you can add color to it for custom color work. I can't recommend RockHard enough.
Thanks! I understand that the Durham's Water Putty loses points for needing to be mixed, BUT, I do LOVE that it doesn't have me reaching for the filler and discover it has dried out and gone bad! Yes, if availabIe I grab other things first, but sooooo often the spackle/wood filler/putty is no longer good, and the water putty sits there for decades, always ready when I need it!
I have a brand new can ready to try soon. I saw it on another video, and immediately thought "it won't dry out". All other ones do and I waste most of the container.
EDIT: So far I hate it. I get it mixed to just the right consistency, fill a couple holes, then it's hard and I dump, mix, repeat. I can't even fill one side of door casing trim nails before it's a ROCK!
At least with the painters putty I can get through a project in decent time. Not with Durhams
@@keithmarlowe5569 You'll like having it around, and it is really fairly impressive stuff.
Totally agree with it's readiness longevity!
@@LarryBinFL So far I'm ready to throw it in the trash. At least that would save me all the mixing time.
I love that stuff!
i use one light coat of drydex with a finger... then instead of sanding, i use a slightly damp microfiber cloth (the smooth side, not the coarse)... the holes literally disappear. and it's the fastest, cleanest method i've ever seen.
Cleaning tile grout with microfibers is a game changer. I haven't used a sponge since.
Microfiber to finish clean drywall dust after vacuuming changes the game as well
I don't often do home improvements, but when I do, I'm coming to this channel. Excellent, clear presentation.
Love your videos ! Your fun to watch.
As a trim carpenter….I find the best way is to minimize your holes by using a stud finder and nailing in the profile so you don’t see them. Then use a bit of Color matched caulk to fill the line where the nail is. I pre spray all my base before install.
Flat stock trim I tend to pre spray and glue on with an instant bonding system so I have no nails to deal with at all.
I use a 21 gauge Brad nailer for standard trim and an 18 gauge for premium trim 5/8” and up. 1-9/16” brads always to stay away from waterlines etc
Thanks buddy! Sounds like you’re running a tight ship with your trim work- I like it!
@nailit1860 - planning to install flat stock trim in the garage - what brand bonding/glue you like to use for that? Also I was taught the same technique for nailing and pre-spraying - what brand of color-matched caulk you use and how you get it? I never heard of that aside from the typical DAP stuff in the store like White, Brown, Almond, etc.
This video is incredibly helpful! I love the step-by-step instructions and the emphasis on choosing the right filler for a seamless finish. Your tip about sanding and painting for a professional look is a game-changer
Love that you test different products out and show us the unbiased results. Thank you so much!
Thanks Sandy- this has always been a life long passion to test things out.
I started housepainting in 1977 and we always kept a ball of Dap 33 glazing compound in out shirt pocket to fill nail holes. Press it in with your thumb and run your putty knife under your thumb and the hole was filled. If the putty got a little dry you rolled it around in your palms and the oil from your skin and the heat would soften it. If it was too soft and oily some dust made it more workable. I think it's kind of silly that zero evidence of a fastener is what people expect today - most people never get down to look at the basebaord anyway.
I was told by a professional finish carpenter to use glazing compound. I have used it and it works well.
Currently in a hardware store and gotta say, I love this video. Been working on my trim using your videos and has made my life much easier. Thank you!
Best wishes on your future projects! I'm really looking forward to making some more detailed vids in 2023.
Nice video thanks for info, I find all your videos very helpful. I am a long time painter and please realize it also matters what wood/substrate you apply your filler to. Ideally hard woods or metal you want a harder filler and soft woods a softer filler. A soft filler on a hardwood especially if hand sanding will dig out the filler during sanding.
A hard filler on soft wood and the wood around the hole will sand away before the filler.
At least that’s what I was taught long ago, I would love to see a test that accounted for this.
Excellent idea for a video Mario, thanks for checking this one out!
When doing trim work, i set the nailer at about a 1/32” depth from the surface, give baseboards one coat of finger applied drydex and two on door casings, rarely sanding. The results are always good. If you crawl around on your hands and knees, you might be able to spot a nail here and there from certain angles, but not when you’re standing or sitting. I’m not knocking anyone who wants a perfect job, but i fail to see the point of the extra work. As well, trying to find every white filled nail hole on a white baseboard and then finding them all again to sand is a major pain in the butt.
bingo
I do house prepping and I love ready patch. so long as you keep it wet and not dried out, it's a winner, shapeable like a smooth drywall mud, can do small or large repairs on painted wood trim or door frames. One coat, dries quickly.
Crawfords painters putty is a great product that didn’t get tested here. Been using it for decades.
I've filled thousands (30 years in new construction) of nail holes with the green label spackle from Sherwin Williams. It's all I'll use. It works better than all of those.
I’ll have to check it out
Green label or Bondo thin is awesome. 100% agree
Because of your comment, I went down to Sherwin and bought some. It worked great! Thank you for taking the time to comment!
As a professional painter in the northeast, I use the redipatch on window sills, and areas on trim and doors where a layer or two of paint is missing, I don’t use it on holes. It’s like a skim coat.
I like the Durham Puddy because of the reason he counted as negative... the mixing! I hate opening those other products only to discover it has dried out and is now useless. The Durham can be stored for as little or long as you want. Plus, it is very inexpensive.
Thank you for trying everything out. Always share your videos to my husband. One of his major peeves is nail holes especially because of all the molding we just did in our house.
Thank you kindly!
The best filler is 20 minute mud .easy to apply , easy sand flush then prime doesn't Crack, pop etc been using it for 20 years .. no haters, please . Love you all in a special way 😊
I've been doing trim work for a long time and the best thing that works on nail holes is "joint compound" it has never failed me after 30 years
It shinks tho. Gonna take 2 coats. Time us money
Joint compound will get hairline cracks after the 2nd door slam. That’s been my experience, I prefer painters or Crawford putty knife smooth. But if that works for you great
Perhaps the best, most comprehensive and helpful test/review ever published on UA-cam. I was having trouble getting flawless filled nail holes and this fixed it for me. Thanks so much!!!
As a finishing carpenter, Dynapatch Pro is the best. It sands at the same rate as wood, dries fast, and is quite hard. Gotta keep the lid on it as it will get crumbly fast. I make solid blocks for sanding by spray glue sandpaper on MDF.
The Dyna patch pro isn't available in my area. It's only available online. I use the Elmer's and have been happy with it. I also like the fact that it's in a squeezable tube. Makes it easy to apply, and it doesn't dry out like canned patch compounds seem to do.
Dap painter's putty # 53. Roll it into a ball in your hands to warm up and push it into holes and smooth with fingers....no sanding! This product is made for nail holes and that's why millions of painters use it. I've been painting for over 40 years. Who in the heck wants to sand filler in a new house with thousands of holes? It would take days to sand and dust all of those spots. Think efficiency!
Here’s the way
I just finished repainting 10 units, converting from natural wood trim to white trim.
First; take a surrated knife and neatly cut the face and two sides of of your sponge sanding block.
Second; Use your finger and apply a good coat of drydex over the holes.
Next; don’t let it dry. Wipe it with your wet sponge that you just made.
The sponge used for sanding blocks is super dense and won’t “ dip “ into the hole and leave you a divot. Rinse and re-wet the sponge as needed.
The units I was doing had about 600-700 holes each, both old school and brad nails.
Had I waited for any product to dry and then sanded it, it would have cost my client a fortune, or me the job.
Try it, it works.
Cheers
Interesting results for the Drydex compared to your last test video where you said it did well on the nail holes. I think it depends on the sanding as it’s really easy to oversand. I found a good method for the Drydex with no sanding, but takes a light touch, is: using finger or knife, fill hole and wipe off all sparkle around the hole. It’s ok if the hole is slightly under filled. Second fill, do the same thing. With a light touch I have got perfect results from that. It’s either that, or use the Dynapatch, but it will take a little muscle sanding it.
Yes I was wrong about drydex. I think it’s just too soft to be great for nail holes. It’s probably fine with a lower gloss paint, but with the high gloss it even semi gloss…it kind of sucks.
That's exactly how you do it. Ask any painter. Fill and wipe with your finger. Once it's painted with semi-gloss trim paint nobody will ever notice if it's slightly underfilled.
Been using dry dex for years. I watched this last week and switched to Alex spackle for the crown i imstalled and I'm almost embarrassed I ever used dex. Thank you for this
Love the video. I’m a GC and do most of the work and have used dry dex with frustrating results for way to long. Thanks for the video brother.
Drydex is garbage. It’s super chalky, porous, and requires you to back brush/roll a first coat of paint to work into it or else it does not cover. It also flashes.
I just recently discovered your channel. I appreciate your sense of humour and honest perspective, not to mention the immensely useful tips that you are giving us. Keep up the great work.
thank you!
He is a funny guy and really nice. I live next door and the only thing weird is that he’s named all his hammers.
I've been doing a lot of work with stained rather than painted trim and I noticed the best way to fill is (lightly) mixing sawdust from refinishing the piece and mixing that with epoxy. It's not the easiest to work with and takes a lot of skill, though. More so than the problem of learning the right ratio of sawdust to epoxy was the issue of accidentally using too much around the outside of the hole which causes some issues with staining.
Keep this up and you’ll become the “Project farm” of trim carpentry. Lol
Good work.
Thanks buddy, that would be great! Hopefully in the next few months I’ll get into a space where I can really test some things out in a home setting! It’s been a bit of struggle making the videos in my own family home.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter looking forward to it.
At least you got paid to make a cpl nice little Reno’s to your own place.
And we'll name him Todd II ; )
I'm a contractor and use mostly Dry-Dex. I use a single application with my finger leaving it overfilled and I don't sand it. I smooth it with a damp cleaning sponge.
When I do this, I first lay down a little section of painter's tape where I'm going to nail the board and then I drive the nail through the tape. Applying the filler with the tape still in place makes a very clean fill and rarely requires any sanding at all.
Genius!
Sounds efficient. Get real.
I've been using M&H for years. IMO it is the best on painted wood white trim. I put it on with a clean putty knife and then strike off any excess. II use my finger in tough spots. As I'm filling, I always have a wet(tightly wrung out) microfiber rag and give each spot a quick wipe. Never or rarely need any sanding or touch up.
To each his own.
Easy answer is Dap Bright White caulk. I like to paint my trim before installing it and this caulk easily covers small holes from a brad nailer and it perfectly matches Sherwin Williams bright white. No sanding needed. Quick and easy.
Great to hear you’ve got a great method working for you🍻
thants pretty cool
Redcap Dap window glazing 33 one wipe to the nail hole, another wipe to flatten, paint right away, never shrinks or cracks, by far the best ive ever used. Painted for years using drydex and other stuff with a knife, my experience no knife needed just finger and glazing. Try it and let me know
I've been using the Elmer's wood filler for years and has always given me great results and never had any issues with paint coverage
Hey bro this video you made is excellent perfect really. You got right to the point you gave plenty of information tone of voice was appropriate. I've seen a bunch of your videos I haven't seen all of them but this one here is my favorite so far. Today you got a new subscriber I appreciate your work bro keep up the good work
As a pretty extensive DIYer, when filling nail holes on painted trim I usually paint the trim before installing, then fill Brad nail holes with a homemade compound of cornstarch and whatever paint I used on the trim (usually a semigloss melamine). Has worked very well for small Brad nail holes- I mix it into a pretty dry putty then just work a small amount in with a thumb and rub off excess.
Wow, you deserve an award for that contribution to science. Bravo.
Thanks for delivering this comparison in a quick and to the point video. Lots of great information. Love your channel.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching
I love ready patch. Use it all the time on exterior projects.
I really appreciate the tests and the result are clear. That being said, there is always a tradeoff with time. I've found it's just much faster to use drydex then come behind with a artist bush and touchup the holes. I use a little bit more than I have then after drying I come behind with damp paper towel again. I don't do any sanding and then use artist brush to paint just the holes.
Best result I found is two applications of filler and priming the casing with an airless completely before applying paint. The primer seals the filler and makes it invisible. Good video, cheers.
I concur, just finished a 6 week remodel and I’ve always used the pink lid and I was unhappy with how it turned out. I’ll give the dyna a whirl. Thx
Best wishes
Excellent work, thank you. For architrave, in the UK, I use a spackle ( feels like plaster with a pva added) on a putty knife and slightly over fill. I then come back 15 mins later and rub down, very lightly, with a damp cloth to remove the excess, no need for sanding.
That’s an interesting technique Michael. I’ve tried something similar with the Drydex and damp paper towel. It worked so so, I’m sure the spackle would be a better option.
I've got ill fitted crown moulding to clean up and a main floor of baseboards to reinstall, this video is going to pay a lot more than the 6 minute investment in watching it. BTW since I wasn't falling asleep in my chair waiting for the end, I enjoyed the bloopers at the end too. Good, solid vid. Thx!
You really are the best at this! Concise, clear, efficient.
The best thing that I have found is a one coat, push in with your thumb and sand as you fill the whole. To do that, you take some window glazing putty--- add some of that dry powder putty to it ( this is to harden after some time). Mix it to a ball, it will be kind of flaky almost, then push it in and sand flat----the glazing will not shrink and the powder takes some time to harden but you can paint it as you use it.
Soooooo, I was all set to buy the Shur Stik product but since it's made in Canada, I'm not going to pay $13.50 U.S. for shipping on a Ten Dollar product. Then, the Dyna Patch must also be made in Canada since I cannot find it in the States! I guess I need a U.S. based person for the review.
I've always used spackle, but my painters use UGL Glazol elastic glazing compound, no sanding. I was flipping a house and couldn't get the trim right (trying to guess where the floor leveling was going to be) and it looked like I shot it with a shotgun. When they got finished it was perfect. I've since used it, you have to roll it around in your hand to get it pliable and push into to hole with thumb twisting a little as you remove excess. And did i say no sanding.
Thanks for taking the time to show us most of the common options. That helps a lot. HOWEVER. The "CLUE" reference was clever but we shouldn't have to wait for the outtakes for the funny stuff. Your grades. "A" on tech info. "C" on funniness. Overall grade, "B".
😂I hear you Joe! I haven’t had any energy for funny stuff lately, the summertime is pretty hectic with no school for my son.
Nah, A-,and I'm a tough grader.
My go to is 3M small hole patch & primer. Doesn’t shrink, sands okay, dries incredibly fast, and cheaper than the top 2 on the list.
.... I absolutely love MH Ready patch. I don't know what to say, I've used almost all of those and like Ready Patch the best of those.
DIYer here. I’ve used joint compound for years without any issues.
Crawfords spackle in green can is the best product, hands down. Does not shrink and extremely easy to sand. Quick spot prime then paint, and you sre done.
Nice thorough test.
I was always taught by the carpenter I started with to do base coat with bondo and finish coat with Dyna patch. This is for doing joints in flat stock and mitres. The bondo gives a good resistance to cracking. Which on larger joints the dyna patch tends to do. But for nail holes, you can't beat it.
Good advice Kyle! What type of bondo do you recommend?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I believe Bondo is the brand. Whatever their regular body filler is. You can get it at Canadian Tire. Recommend the small container, as the large is quite a lot.
Yeah, the Dyna patch also not available in the US
My professional painter buddy swears by redi+patch. The black can with orange lettering. I've used it, like it ok. But not perfect in my eyes. I'll try your recommendation. You haven't let me down yet!
Got it from my pro painter as well. It's good for interior and exterior and large holes and gashes.
Joint compound, work it in hole and leave on a bit heavy, easy to sand smooth.
As a painter we get nice results with dap glazing/ painters putty..but the trick is to ..what we call knifing the product into the holes. Takes practice to get it right but when you do it's a perfect! Hey..no sanding involved.
Used DryDex for the last 15 years with zero problems. Yes it shrinks so allow extra above the surface to compensate then sand flat. My biggest issue is MDF. When nailing MDF it puffs up the nail hole like a mini volcano and is a pain to get flat as the surface then roughs up around the nail hole. Hate that stuff. Back in the UK we just used window putty and it was awesome.
Your videos are so great! I learn something new every time I watch! Can't wait until you get a million subs & some sponsors! You're on your way to greatness!!!
Well this comment is a real bonus to the day! Thank you🍻🙏🏼
I find glazing putty to be the most effective, yes, normally used by auto body shops. Fill with a putty knife and sand with 150 grit. One coat and done.only issue is it’s red so I have to hit with primer before top coat.
NitroStan comes in a gray color
Very good video. Out of curiosity why not use drywall mud? I know that sounds different but I have always used a quick dry 45 or 90 on my nail holes and I’ve never had an issue with them bleeding through. They finish off completely flush. No shrinkage, it works perfect
Mud expands more like sheetrock, wood expands and contacts more than mineral based surfaces.
2nd reason is adhesive, drywall patch has less adhesive than spackle so it sands more easily and more evenly. So, spackle sticks better to wood and finished surfaces as most trim has at least a semi gloss finish, ie more adhesion needed and is more crack resistant.
The negative to basic spackle is harder to sand. The higher end ones (MH DP and the one his paint store recommended) have finer aggregate and different adhesives so they get the better stick without being as much of a bitch to sand as wood filler (wood filler =elmur's glue + sawdust)
Anybody else hits the like as soon as the video plays?.......cause you know you wont be disappointed in this guy.
High praise!🍻cheers
Pro finishing carpenter here
Pre paint your base boards and use a small amount of adhesive to the back of the baseboard when you install it. Then use a 18 gauge brad nailer and nail in the (Notch or V of the profile) and wipe it with a tiny bit of DAP/Alex plus and it’s invisible to the eye (light refracts different in the notch) and no sanding on your hands and knees and you make the same money with half the effort (no crawling on your knees sanding and painting after)
You’re welcome
A couple of things if two coats the first with Dyna and the second with Shur
Also I cover my half used containers with clingwrap.
I shove it into the center and spiral my way out to the edge. Tubs last a good long time since oxygen can’t get to the material.
Works on cold brew coffee too
Not as acidic.
Completely agree with the DryDex. Multiple coats and careful sanding and I can still see nail divots in my trim. Driving me crazy. I’m done using that.
Absolutely! I think the main problem is the incredible soft nature of drydex. For that same reason though it can work nice as a wall pactch.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Yeah it is also usually a pretty close color match to textured ceilings and can be used to hide nail pops in the ceiling.
If you are using actual spray paint on your trim it will be ultra thin when it dries. Water based paint will be much thicker and will hide the holes better.
I suspect he was only using the pray paint to show off the imperfections of each process.
@@blaster-zy7xx considering how many nail holes I've filled over the last 34 years as a painter, I'm just going to say that most of them will work just fine if you know how to apply them properly. The spray paint only proves that the guy doesn't know how to fill nail holes properly.
@@michaeldiffey3791 OK, how do you fill nail holes properly?
@blaster-zy7xx you put in enough spackle to fill the hole, plus a little more to allow for shrinkage, then you and it down.
If you use putty instead of spackle, then you can just level it off and leave it.
Not that hard. Like I said, using spray paint was useless and pointless.
If it's raw wood, you will prime it after you sand it, then do two coats of finish. You're not going to see imperfections if you do it that way.
@@michaeldiffey3791 That's pretty much the way I have always done it. But I never nail raw wood trim if it will be painted. I always prime and paint all trim first, then cut and install the trim, then caulk edges and fill the nail holes, then one last touch up coat of paint. I have never done two coats of filler on trim, that seem excessive. but I will do it on cabinetry. Thanks for your input.
As a landlord, color matched wax 'crayon' wax type. Push hard to force it in, then polish the excess off like shoe wax.
Too good for tenants and super easy.
Mh ready patch is a patching compound better used on large gauges or projects needed to shape. It’s just like Bondo but takes longer to sand and no mixing
My brain interpreting the thumbnail:
❌ Strawberry yogurt
✅ Vanilla yogurt
(But really, great video. Right to the point and not drawn out.)
Regular Elmer's wood filler never fails. Always bonds, never shrinks, sand with 180 gone...
I agree. Worked great for me. If you want true perfection, you do the Elmers for the bulk of the hole filling and then Bondo Glazing and spot putty (red stuff in tube) to make the holes and other small imperfections absolutely smooth. I try to emulate this guy ua-cam.com/video/Q7XbqorZV5c/v-deo.html You do have to have to use a primer that can block the red though. Again, it's not a hole filler, as the Funny Carpenter tried previously, it's a "surface perfecter".
I kind of hate that glazing “bondo”. I’ve tried to do some stuff off camera using it to top coat over Elmer’s. I don’t like it! It stinks like crazy and I never get the best results with it. That be said I’ve seen guys do some pretty great stuff with it on jobs.
It’s tough to go wrong! I kind of crapped the bed here when I didn’t use white Elmers. I had to do 5 coats of this super toxic spray paint and it still didn’t really cover the best with the natural filler.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I agree on the smell. There are few things that more immediately make you think "this stuff is probably kiling brain cells or causing cancer" :( I've taken to wearing my 3M full facemask while applying. I love that thing. I think you should make this test a yearly thing. Next time don't use the spray paint, though, LOL.
Next time pls show the products longer.
Amazing content. I love how you test all the combinations instead of "from my 30 year experience"
You missed one: FamoWood 40042144 Latex Wood Filler. It's water soluble, dries in 15 min, comes in multiple shades (colors) and container sizes. I use my finger to press it into the holes and corners and use 220 grit paper to knock it down or form it to the shape of the molding. Leave it a little bit "proud" and you never have to use a 2nd application. If you pick a color that is in the same neighborhood as the paint, one coat covers it.
Oatey makes a fill stick. You can get it at lowes back with the plumbing stuff. It’s a long stick. You knead it until soft and it sets up rock hard. Very good for fixing chips on casing and jamb
Found your channel tonight and just binge watched liked 10 videos. Love the info and the humor.
This was exactly what I needed. Perfect video packed with educational content and a little humor! Loved the clue reference, I was thinking the same thing as you were saying it. Definitely going out and getting that Dynapatch - thank ya, sir!
Crawford vinyl spackle is the best for nail holes. Never use a knife or flat edge to apply putty or spackle. Use your finger and apply enough that there's kind of a dome over the nail hole. If you don't when it dries it leaves an indent. Make sure when it dries its still raised and then sand smooth. Also the size of the nail hole makes a big difference. If the appropriate nail was used. Their hole is easy to cover. If your using big nails in trim. Which you shouldn't. You'll have to leave a taller dome over the hole so it doesn't sink in when it dries. If you're wiping or scraping the putty flat when applying you are going to have nail holes that show. Not all but some. Apply raised, sand smooth.
The pink drydex works great, works well on walls for holes & large areas that was torn down to the drywall paper, as for wood holes havent tried it yet but i wouldnt see any problem using it to fill in nail holes on wood or mdf boards, key factor is not to use much at all on boards very thin layer just to cover hole sand down lightly hour later with 220 grit that there is no over lapping around holes apply very light primer light sand primer then once painted wouldnt be able yo tell there was ever holes on board.
Good luck finding "Dyna Patch Pro" in stock anywhere right now (unless you live in Canada).
Thanks for an excellent review. I have a lot of nail holes still left to fill. I appreciate the thoroughness and the quick review.
I was really excited watching this video. One suggestion is to better show each product and where we can get it. I am in the Boston area and cannot locate either of your top two choices!
Keep in mind if you're a homeowner you don't want to use a hard to sand product because you will use to much and sanding will be miserable!
1. Fill nail holes and sand
2. Prime wood then check for holes that need to be filled!
I love it that you tried many fillers. I wish you had demo'ed more trim! Mine is glossy plastic (pvc?)..
It appears nobody sells the Dyna patch pro
Thanks so much for all the work. I was using DryDex based on a painter's recommendation and I was never impressed with it.
One proud standing application with the correct style blade is the correct way. With the correct knife, you can push the putty into the hole, leave the putty standing proud to allow for shrinkage in an area not much bigger than the nail hole, making it easy to sand. Time is money, doing the same process several times over doesn't cut it.
Excellent video! Very, very helpful, and I love your cute outtakes at the end. 😊 It was great! Thank you so much! 👍
I'm honestly shocked by the MH results. I wonder if they changed the formulation? For decades I've MH has always been my go to on ANY type of wood patching that isn't caulkable. The oil base has just always had better adhesion than anything else on painted surfaces while remaining incredibly easily sandable.
I'll def try out the dynapatch.
Can you run a test with larger bruises...ie simulate like pet scratches & hammer/furniture divots? That's where MH generally shines curious how DP performs.
Also curious how DP performs on finished semi/high gloss paint surfaces. All trim I install I pre paint with semi or high gloss before install so all I gotta do is nail patch and touch up paint post install.
FYI….220 grit paper is much better than 150 grit paper for sanding filler….this coming from a professional painter…other than that you are right on money…I do appreciate your video👍🏽
The MH ready patch is actually great for a big area or rotted out area. Its hard and sandable. I never really use it for filling nail holes
I love Ready Patch, especially if you have damaged trim with nicks and gouges , you need multiple coats and tuffer to sand but the results is what I look for
Yea exactly what I use MH for. I've never had issues using it for nail patches but maybe they tweaked the formula?